Thanks Mark! I followed the directions from Canadian Chains website and it worked very well. The chains are about 60 lbs a piece so this removed any need to fight with them to get them on. Cheers!
I purchased chains a couple of years ago from the same place. My tires are 14.9 x 24 and the compatible chains will fit several sizes larger as well, so I just overlapped the excess and attached them with hammer links. Those little clevises need to have the pins wired or zip tied to the chain, they will rattle out in no time at all. Once they are secured they won't spin out, even if only finger tight. Now that you have these, with the diff lock engaged, the wheels will take turns grabbing but still move you through the icy patches.
Thanks William. This is good information and helpful. I will tie them for sure. The chains themselves fit great- no excess except the added links hanging so I am very happy with them so far. Can't wait to see the difference. Cheers!
Hey buddy, I wanted to look up this video to see the type of chain you went with, I'll need spacers on my L2501, I think I'll go with front chains, just because I use my loader bucket, and I get a lot of push, (tires turn, tractor goes straight) when plowing. I noticed tho when you put on the chain tightening bunjis, you had the hooks facing your tire. As and old flatbed truck driver, and Wisconsin to the west coast and back runner, you always want the hook facing out. If they're facing the tires, anything you hit, like a tree stump or rock, could push the hook right thru your sidewall, and sidewalls can't be patched. I love your videos, especially the latest auger positioning one. Who'd of thunk it! I checked my blower and sure enough, it was wrong. I test drove it the wrong way, then switched and sure enough it made a huge difference. This is on just a 33" walk behind Troybilt. Eventually I'll have a 64" on the rear of my L2501, but 1st I've my sights on a 36" high by 72" snow pusher for the front. Well I'm rambling. God bless, & CHEERS from Wisconsin!
Hey good morning IHB. I am happy it helped and made a big difference for you too. I should have listened to Guy years ago but I just didn't think it mattered. But happy you got yours humming. I like these H pattern V hooks alot but they were pretty $$ compared to regular loop type chains. All the best in Wisconsin and thanks for tuning in and for the comments this morning!
Thank you and enjoy your all your video's. I have never used chain's and my Kubota L2501 in the winter nor on my ford N-8 with a back blade. The only tractor I had to was the farmall M because of the weight of the front of the tractor with the loader installed. I live in north western Michigan. Keep doing the good work and I will keep watching.
Good evening and thanks for the kind comments William, and for sharing your experience. I was hoping I would not need the chains myself, but that "Steep" hill on the driveway is the only place I have trouble sometimes getting over so finally decided I best get the traction. All the best and thanks again for watching and for the great comments tonight! Cheers!
GP, I heard you mention that over the winter you will evaluate whether front chains are required. I was told by a Kubota dealer technician the general guidance is to not put chains on the front of a compact tractor that can engage 4WD. Apparently it places significant stress on the drive train gears/components and it has been reported that it can cause major issues. I don't know if this is correct but it was enough to convince me to stay clear of front chains. The biggest downfall of not having chains on the front is the lack of steering while on ice. But if you take it slow I would say you will be pleased with having the tryggs deployed on the rear tires. You will have excellent traction forward and backward for either snow blowing or plowing/bucket work. For those that use chains on the front, it could be the case they have unique demanding requirements and at the end of the day, a tractor is a workhorse, so one needs to equip for the use case at hand to get the outcome required. But since your tractor is relatively new and I don't think you have an extreme use case, rear chains only is probably best.
Hey good evening Ron. I agree 100% with you and appreciate you taking the time to outline it for me. My dealer said the same thing to me and although I didn't;t totally understand it, I understand what you just described. I will try to stay away from any front chains and if for some reason I think I need them, then I will go in and talk directly with the mechanic at the dealer. They are really great and helpful there. For now, let's see how the rears do for me. Thanks again for taking the time to explain it. Have a great weekend!
@@GPOutdoors after using and abusing three Kubota tractors since '82 my opinion is that these little guys are so overbuilt that they will sustain most any small additional strain that may be put on the drive train due to front chains. Of course I broke the B2400 in two, snapping every bolt attaching the front to the rear. But that was because of what I was doing with the loader. I run 4 wheel chains almost continuously on all three Kubotas and have never had any issues with the drive trains, bearings or castings. How's that for a testimonial...?? Ron makes some very good points however, and it is always better to follow your dealer or his technicians suggestions rather than a registered tractor abuser such as myself !! But also like he said above....these little guys are workhorses ~!! I love them.
LOL T! Now that was some kind of endorsement if I ever heard one. I'll bet those tractors hang around at night out there together telling each other stories about you. LOL. I'm sure it'a all good though. Thanks for the words of wisdom and experience my friend. I'll take it slow and a little at a timer now and see how things go, I think. Thanks again and hope you and Mrs. T enjoy the weekend!
What do you think about front chains but keeping it in 2wd? I think 2wd with 4 chains may provide more benefit in snow/ice than 4wd with 2 rear chains.
Greetings Gord, Lee here, happy to see you got your chains, they will make a great difference this winter. those chains are a good choice, with that design the cross chains will not be falling in between the groves of the tires, they have to stay on top of the cross bars of the tread similar to the type I have on the B7510. I do have 1 chain only on the front, just on there for steering when the driveway gets icy. A number of people told me not to put chains on both front tires, they said that it would put too much strain on the front axle and it could cause serious problems as it is not as the axle is not as sturdy as the rear. This way if the chained front wheel got a lot of traction the other tire will spin and take the tension off the chained tire. It made sense to me. As usual another well made and informative video. Later
Good morning Lee. Thanks for the information and suggestion. I had not thought of that, but am aware of the strain issues etc and a few folks also mentioned that a chain on the front on this B series may interfere with some part (?) under there, in the front. I'll have to look into it further. Thanks again and all the best!
LOL David! I think you will be ok without them. :)) But thanks - I am pretty happy with them - looking forward to seeing how much of a difference they make. Have a great week!
Thanks again Joe! Looking forward to seeing how they work in the snow ( plus, the ride gets a little rough on bare ground - hopefully it will be a little smoother again once I get some snow..LOL).
How's she goin'? Those are awesome chains GP!!! I have been looking for another set of chains too. I was amazed that it was a challenge to find a Canadian supplier for chains. You would have thought Canada would have been a good source for winter tire chains, but the I found more suppliers from the southern US than in Canada. Who new!!! I did find Canadian Chains though and their site was sure easy to use like you say. I think they are doing it right with the way they show their products and also the variety of chains they have available is nothing short of 'chain shoppers' heaven!!! LOL I bet you'll see a big difference with those chains this winter. You will be impressed!!! Thanks for the info in this video GP. Much appreciated!!!
Good day Grampie. Yup, very happy so far with the product - fits perfectly on the tires - not sure why they had those extra links dangling off the end but perhaps there are uses that require them but the chains fit great. Rough ride with those V hooks when you are on bare ground, I tell you. LOL. I might need seat cushion but we'll see how they work in the white stuff. Be well and all the best!
@@GPOutdoors You did a great job putting them on, so maybe putting them on the snow might not be too bad!!! That way you won't have to run them on bare ground as much!!!
Great video and yes it’s time that we start getting ready for winter here in northern Michigan. I have a new holland tc35d 4x4 and I ended up putting chains on because we have a valley in our driveway and found out that I needed fronts also now it’s a tank I found out the best way to put those chains on was to jack up the wheel and put one on at a time very easy to spin and adjust and make as tight as possible and don’t cut the extra off I just use had zip ties and never had a problem
Good evening Robert! Thanks for the great advice - a couple other folks suggested that too. I will give it a try when I need to put them back on. Thanks again and all the best - we had flurries here yesterday so it is coming soon, I think! Cheers!
Hi GP, I live in the laurentians in Quebec. Plenty of snow and ice here. I have a b3200 and have chains installed as well. I would recommend getting wheel spacers. When you travel the chains will slacken a bit and the chains will rip your inner fenders ( trust me on this). Also wheel spacers will provide that extra width for stability all year. Leave them on all the time. I don’t think they recommend wheel chains for the front tires (not enough clearance) I put on tire studs for the fronts. They provide the extra grip when needed on ice. Hope this helps.
Good evening Gerry! This helps a lot - thanks very much! I didn't know about the clearance issue in the front until tonight, so I am happy I didn't spend the money on them. You are correct - I figured out I need the wheel spacers for sure - you will see on Thursday. And my dealer also did not recommend chains for the front either. I am looking forward to seeing how they work come winter. Thanks again and all the best!
I agree, anything that widens the wheelbase is a good safety factor on a hilly property. My dealer recommended them for that reason before I even discussed chains with him.
Good Evening Sir !! Those are some super deluxe looking chains. I really like the ice grips and you will find they are superior to standard chains. I can't wait until you get about ten inches of powder. I gotta tell you though, I sure am wishing you'd have bought 'em for all four wheels but also am totally sure you will notice the traction difference with just the rears alone. Of course its easy spending someone else's money. LOL. Thank you GP, for tagging Joe and myself in your discussion on the chains. That was a cool surprise and the Missus even commented from across the room....which made me laugh.
Good morning T! Thanks again . You know me - I am going to walk a bit before I start running. LOL. But appreciate the advice as always. I am heading into the forest with them on today. So may days and so many inches of rain that it is some muddy back there. Thought it might make for a good dry run, so to speak. All the best to you and your lovely Missus. Cheers!
I have little experience with chains but I have heard to air the tires down then install the chains as tight as possible after they are secure air the tires back up
@@GPOutdoorsthe whole point of dropping the pressure before install is to get the chains as tight as possible. This method works great for atv tires. I'm not sure it will work so well on a stiff tractor tire. You definitely don't want to try it if your tires are loaded. I can't wait to see how well they work. Maybe a trip down the driveway in a foot of fresh snow with out using the blower haha.
Great video. A couple tips: 1) definitely leave at LEAST 2-3 links, so you can hook the chains up without a struggle again next fall. Wire-tie the extra links to the perimeter chains so that they don't flop around and stay secure through the winter. 2) A properly tightened chain does NOT need elastic tightners. Always roll the tractor around WITHOUT tightners. After you re-tighten the chains 2-3 times, the chains will be tight for the winter. Use the tightners if you like, but ONLY after the chains are already properly tightened.
Good afternoon David. Thanks very much for the great advice! I left 3 links and wire tied them as you suggested. I did not know about the tightener stuff but when i put them back on for the snow, i will be sure to do that. I will use the tighteners because I have them but will follow your advice first. Cheers and all the best to you. I really appreciate it!
Thanks CM! Very happy with them so far. A bit of a rough ride now, when on bare ground, but I assume it will be much smoother when the snow gets here. Have a great week my friend!
I'd be curious how they handle on asphalt like someone's driveway and or roadway., I wonder if they would scrape the driveway or mark the driveway similar to how snowmobile carbides destroy asphalt
Glad to see that you got chains for your tractor . You were hesitant at first because it might effect your factory warranty . Bought and sold in Canada which is a good thing . I see you tied the chain to the wheel and then drove the chain on . That's how NB88 did it last year when he first got his chains . That's the best way of putting chains on . No more worries about that hill anymore . LOL Let the snow fly .
Good morning Henry! Yup, I can't wait for a couple of feet of snow so I can tackle that hill! LOL. Yes I saw his video and the instructions from Canadian Chains also followed that method too. Was pretty easy to do. Hope you are doing great - all the best Henry!
Wow... when winter gets here you'll be known around the territory as Mr. Traction!! :-) You did good for the first time driving them onto the tire. I normally jack up one tire at a time with a floor jack and then manually rotate the tire to roll them on.
Hey GP....good research and glad you found what chains you were looking for......now maybe you scared winter away....lmao.....well we can always hope.....have a great week and take care my friend....... :)
LOL. Well that's usually how it works, Don. Now that I have the chains, we probably won't get much snow this winter. LOL. So true. All the best my friend. Cheers!
Good evening GP !!! Congrats, now that's very strong and big chains for your tractor. You will love them on snow and ice. I'm very happy for you that you do not need wheel spacer but for me having the wheel spacer was great to stabilise the tractor with the backhoe or side of the montaine. Sincerely very happy for you GP ! Nota: You will also love to have them on your front wheel for better direction and traction but you have separate wheel brake control on your tractor to help to steer in case of slippery condition. The only worried I have is the difference wheel ratio between the front and the back,,, having two sets of chains will eliminate that problem. Cheers !!!
Thanks Dave! Unfortunately, I needed the spacers. But better to get them and not try to go without them. Cheers and enjoy the rest of the week my friend! Cheers!
@@GPOutdoors Chut,, I'm sorry Sir,,, but you will gain better stability into the forest. Make sure their are not larger that your snowblower or front bucket. You too have a great week GP !!! .
Great video. Thanks for the info. I'll look into it. It is cooling off here in Alberta so it won't be long before the chains are needed. Michael from Alberta
Hey GP, good to see you doing a practice run. Might try one under the shed roof if you can. Much nicer to install them somewhat out of the weather 😉. Just me, I would feel much better with the wheel spacer so I won’t hear the chains hitting the fender. Won’t take much wear before they hook onto the fender? Chains on the front offer better steering to keep the plow on the road with a front push plow but you really have to keep them tight so they don’t damage things while turning. You will do fine with them because you check your equipment before every use each day. You won’t be able to get the smile off your face when you use them for the first time this winter . Enjoy them and be safe.
Good morning ODD. I am looking forward to seeing how they work come winter. As usual, your advice is correct. I just installed the spacers- for the reasons you suggested. I will stay away from the front chains for now as others have cautioned similarly to what you mentioned too. Let's see if the rears do the trick for me. Cheers and all the best- thanks again ODD!
Welcome to the chain gang! Those chains will give you lots of traction this winter. You will find you will almost never need 4x4 now. But I think you’re going to find it hard to steer. You can use your left and right brake or add front Chains and run in 2x4. I just run Chains on the front my b2601 and 4x4. The rear tires slip and don’t cause “ bind up”. I have rears but haven’t had to put them on yet due to no need. Have a good one! Mitch.
Good day and thanks for the info Mitch. Glad to be part of the gang . LOL. Good information about the steering and the 2WD. I will find out shortly I think. Thanks again and have a good week! Cheers!
Instead of cutting extra chain, bolt it with flat washers on both sides and it will serve as a fail safe in the event the over center lock releases. The comment about reducing air pressure when installing is correct. I would add spacers, a chain can tear a fender up in a hurry. Good luck playing in the snow.
You will wonder how you did without them . I have used chains on tractors for over thirty years . For logging in winter / ice and slush and deep snow even muddy conditions in the spring . Some people depending on there tractor model in a 4x4 compacts will find the issue is usally at the front tires for clearance of steering arm ball joint or axle hub . Wheel spacers will be needed then . On the John Deere’s we found the spacer kit in parts for the tractor not in the accessory options . Those chains you bought are good choice with the vee spikes . Just don’t spin the tires on pavement or concrete they are rippers 😂. I jack the tractor up then find easy too install the chains and connecting at bottom . All the slack is out then . 👍
Good evening Ridgeback. Thanks very kindly for the great advice - I really appreciate the information. It turns out I need the spacers unfortunately - just not enough room under there. Stay tuned for Thursday... Thanks again and all the best!
@@GPOutdoors How bad is your clearance issue? Some car guys stick a Louisville Slugger between the wheel and fender then drive forward pinching the bat between the tire and fender thus pushing the fender out. If your clearance issue is only due to sheet metal a small piece of limb wood might be your friend.
Thanks Brad. I used a crowbar to bend it out a bit but there are hydraulic hoses and electrical wires under the right side, among other things. Thanks for the idea though - greatly appreciate it!
When you cut off the excess chain, cut it so that you can catch the last loop in the shackle. This should leave enough for you to have a good hand hold when installing and a ready place to hook the extra. No extra part and pieces to keep up with. I have limited experience with chains, but they add a lot more traction than you would think. In my experience, a zip tie to lock the tightener in place is cheap piece of mind that it stays in place when you hit a good size rock.
Did I remember your rear tires were loaded too? The opening clip doesn't make us aware how steep your hill must be. I gotta say you are the master of research! Cheers!
Hey Michael. Yes indeed - they are filled with RimGuard (beet juice). It gets really deep once you pass the half way point. That's where I get caught up. LOL! Well, perhaps not a master but I try to do my homework. Cheers and all the best!
I just wanted to say thank you. I have been enjoying the videos very much and always learn something. We plan to take delivery of our new tractor in April. Still trying to decide between the B2301 and the B2601 . Pallet forks and a grapple are still being researched as well. Maybe your grapple or the Artillian . Thanks again, Ben from Nova Scotia
Congratulations Ben! That's great! If I may offer, to keep in mind as you finalize your decision, I found that when looking to buy rear PTO driven implements, the PTO HP is important as each implement needs a minimum amount of HP in order to run properly and the variety of available PTO driven implements available are less for tractors with lower PTO HP's. The 2301 has 17 HP on the PTO and the 2601 has 19. So it might be helpful if you spend some time looking at some of the possible rear implements you may want in the future and checking their minimum PTO HP requirements ( you will find them online easily). Hope that helps a bit. Best of luck Ben! Cheers!
@@GPOutdoors Thanks GP Outdoors. We took the trip to our dealer today and drooled over the tractors, and took your advice. A B2601 it will be. Our problem is it will be April when we take delivery. So we are depending on you to keep those great videos comming, to get us through until our tractor arrives. Thanks again, I have to go now and learn about putting spacers on a B2601 Take care, Ben from Nova Scotia
Nice work putting on the chains! It looks like you choose nice ones. My two comments would be trim off all but two links of the excess like you said. Wire or I find zip tie them out of the way. My second suggestion is when you put them on next time drive them on even slower and if you can get one a helper to slowly adjust them as you drive on really helps there. My brother and I have been doing that for years with my parent's tractor. Thank you for all the research you did on the purchasing. I know that I am going to need chains on my own much shorter but very steep driveway once I finally get a B series.
I forgot one thing. A good pair of channel lock pliers are very handy for closing the clasp on the chains. Sometimes the will let you get that one extra link tighter. Have a good week too!
Yep, those should do the trick. Wonder why there's so much chain leftover if they're sized for your tires? Maybe it's just standard protocol by the manufacturer or perhaps a specific reason?
Good morning GWT. I was pondering the same question. For clarity, those chains fit the tires perfectly - I am very happy. The extra links are on the strands that you wrap through the fasteners, so I came to the same conclusion that perhaps there are scenarios where you might need a couple extra links to grab with the fasteners. But the actual chain itself is a great fit on the tires themselves - no need to adjust or remove links or anything. Thanks for watching and for the comment this morning. Cheers!
GP. Great looking chains. I run chains on my rear wheels of my compact tractor. I live in the hills of upstate NY and glad I have them. My chains were also a little long just like yours. I cut the excess off and left only 2 extra links. I use a couple of heavy duty tie wraps and secure these 2 links to the main chain. I pay attention to keep them “dressed” so everything stays clear of fenders or anything else they can touch. Great job on your videos. Jim
Good evening and thanks for the good information Jim. I appreciate you sharing it with me. I will do the same for sure. Have a great night and thanks for watching and for the comments tonight!
Hi GP make sure you have extra chain links and the tool to fix them with it in case one break and other thing after winter is over hang them up to dry.
I have never used chains but might I suggest that instead of cutting the excess links off, simply use a heavy duty carabiner or like contraption to hook them onto another part of the chain...that way you'll always have those extra links handy...just in case!
I say cut 'em off. I had a tractor once that I figured I leave the pigtail "just in case". 20 years later that pigtail was still flopping around. Once you have the chains fitted properly you will never need that extra pigtail and it will forever be something that you have to contend with to keep it from coming loose and flopping around and catching on things. With the chains trimmed to the proper length you simply attach the latch and hook to the last loop and you are good to go. Otherwise each year you have to re-figure out which loop you used for a proper fit.
I totally agree. So you don't need to re-figure which loop is the good one. The only adjustment that can happen, the tire will wear down, as well as the chains links, then you may have to gain one more link shorter in 10 years... Lol!
If you put them on to tight it they want to bind in the cleats. But if they are tight you don't the bungies. We ran chains every winter on some tractors but with 4wd they only go on when it gets icy and then it's just on the back. If you put them on the front you have to be careful not to turn to sharp
Good day Jamie. Super helpful information - thanks! I appreciate it. A few other folks said the same things so I will stick with the rear and see how it goes, and keep it in mind for sure. Thanks again and all the best!
Hey GP, great discussion here. Last year, when you started to consider chains and your tractor, we had a bit of this discussion. Glad to see you went so far in-depth with considering chains. Your channel is great. A BIG YES on the wheel spacers, as you concluded. Each tractor owner has to consider these options.
Thanks so much Merton. I always appreciate the time you good folks take to help provide some good advice. It helps me a lot. Really appreciated. And very happy with the purchase. Thanks again nd all the best!
Hi GP glad you got your tire chains. I told you when i got my tractor new i also ordered it with rear tire chains. I ended up removing them when they delivered my tractor as they were rubbing the fenders. I could see you had lots of clearance. John Deere doesn't have that. Also my tractor has the plastic fenders, i was afraid of damaging or breaking them. I suppose I can get spacers to extend and/or widening the space. Chains can sure be beneficial. Take care buddy, Cheers.
Good morning Dean! Thanks for sharing. Yes, these things were scraping here and there and After talking with Guy, we figured, I better get the spacers. Installed them now and happy I did - lots of room now. I am looking forward to seeing how they work in the snow. All the best my friend!
Great video Gord and thanks for the tip on the source for chains in Canada. My driveway at home is only about 250 ft long but it has a nasty hill that tends to get very icy after a few freeze/thaw cycles. I suspect even with 4 wheel drive, my L4060 may still struggle on that hill without chains. My old Massey 50 will hardly move on ice without them, and while it’s only a 2WD, I’m not sure 4WD helps much with rubber on ice! After what I spent on the new tractor and implements, I’m not sure I want to spring for chains thus year, but need may override want! Cheers!
Good morning Dave! I went two winters without them, but on occasion, I just can't get up that Steep hill- not often but of course, on those few days, it is tough not being able to get out. For reference, Guy has an L3400 and he has never used chains in the 15 years he has had the tractor up here. And he always gets up my Steep Hill. That's why I resisted chains for so long. But I think at the end of the day, my B is not as heavy as the L series or as big, of course, so perhaps you can give it a whirl this winter and see how it performs before deciding. Also, this style of chain ( V hook) offers a very rough ride I am noticing but we'll see how it goes over the winter. Cheers!
The expense and work of spacers might not be a plus at first thought, but it will add more stability in the little wider stance... Chains on the front will definitely help with steering but if you wanna try at first before chaining them; un-hook your break pedals to work the rear brakes independently and depress each pedal to help the chains on back to bite slowing one wheel and help you turn. Think ABS system, pump brake the wheel so you don't lock up and slide 😉... Will feel a tad awkward at first and having to get used to. ☺
Good morning BB! Some great advice as always. Yup, I installed the wheel spacers and it was a lot of work for me ( sometimes I wish I had a more mechanical background my friend) but hey, I got them in. Thanks for the tip on the rear brakes. I also heard from a few subscribers that there are issues trying to use chains on the front on these B series (clearance or interference with something , I think). But I will work the brakes - Joe Lesage had suggested the same thing last winter and I have done it a few times so will practice more come winter. Have a great week and thanks again! Cheers!
I like them as been discussed they will grow with speed i would add one thing that is to safety wire the latches and trim the extra chain to 2 or 3 links and tie wire them to zip ties but in the cold with roots and rocks i would use wire but you have a guy in your tool box and that is better than most manuals and internet advice have fun
LOL. Good morning and thanks for the great advice Dale. Yup, already done both of those things - you and Guy were in the toolbox I think. LOL. Cheers and thanks again - all the best!
LOL Roy! Guy mentioned this week that he is going to miss having to throw a chain down to pull me up. LOL. I told him I wasn't going to miss it a bit. :)) Cheers!
Great video GP. In regards to the front chains. Check with a service tech at your dealership before buying them. I spoke to one down here, and he told me that rear chains are fine, but front chains are really rough on the steering hydraulics. I have seen others put them on, but I found that the rear chains work just fine for my little BX. Anyhow, great video, and I'm excited to see them work!
Good day MH! Thanks for the great information. I appreciate it. Mine said the same thing. Looking forward to the first run in the snow. Cheers and all the best!
Its much easier to jack up the rear end of your tractor to install your chains. Put it in neutral and just turn your wheels to roll the chains onto your wheels. Putting spacers on would be wise with chains. It will also make your footprint a little wider and your tractor will be a little more stable on inclines.
I used spacers on my B2650. I probably could get by without them but don’t want to risk tearing up my fenders. It seems like the chains never go on exactly the same and sometimes are closer to the fender than others. Spacers also add stability on side hills. Good luck with the chains. You’re definitely going to see a difference. Have a good one.
Good day and thanks for the great comment K. I agree. So I installed the spacers for the same reason. There is also hydraulic lines running under and around the right fender so I figured it was best not to take the chance. Cheers and thanks again!
Cheers! Love your 'hard-working' videos, especially the drone shots. I always use CC (closed captioning), and cannot see the option of moving the CC from the bottom of the screen on UA-cam. Keep that in mind when placing words on the screen - just a little bit higher, please........ or maybe I am one of the few who use CC, then never mind......
Thanks very much. I turned it on but didn't realize it might interfere. If you click the little gear wheel on the bottom right of any video, you can turn it off. But for sure, I will try to keep that in mind. Thanks for letting me know. Cheers!
LOL. And hey, I won't have Guy smiling from the top of the hill with a set of chains to pull me up anymore. ( His joke this week he told me over coffee). Cheers Edward!
Hi GP! Those are impressive chains! I have a feeling you’ll be glad you got them. Looking forward to seeing how they perform in up coming videos! BTW, I liked the transition from your computer to the next scene. Nice touch! Cheers!
Good day GP your going to love your chains at the mine I work at there a ramp to go underground it’s a 17 degree slope there hot air coming out and cooled air meet up we use a cat loader nice machine the salesman for cat said we don’t need chains on it but in reality the wait of the machine and the slope was too much for the traction control and Truss me when I say it’s scary sliding down and a vehicle coming up have a great week
Thanks! Have you heard about Pewag Chains. They make a Square Link Ladder Double Space chain that is supposed to top notch. Maybe you could review a Pewag chain?
Thanks for the great advice. Several other mentioned the similar suggestion. I appreciate the great advice and will be mindful for sure. Have a great week!
Here is one thing to consider. If you run a front blower and rear blade, when you raise the blower off the ground it hangs way out there and acts like a heavy cantilever and takes a lot of weight off the rear tires, causing them to lose traction in many cases. However, it increases the weight on the front tires. So most times when you use the rear blade you will need to be in 4WD and the front tires will be doing most of the work. If it is icy you will need chains on the front to maintain traction.
Did you drive the tractor with the chains on? That style rides very rough, because of the chains that connect the cross links. The one link stands straight up and down creating the rough ride. I had a set for the L4240 and returned them because of the rough ride, I could not go over 7mph and they did not help with traction.
Good morning Roger. Yes, I did and it is a rough ride for sure. I appreciate the insights my friend and I guess I will see how the traction is over the winter. A lot of subscribers had suggested the V hook , so I will see how it goes. Hopefully it will do the job for me. What type of chain do you use now? Cheers and thanks !
In addition to using chains, try adding more weight on the back of your tractor. You lose traction in your rear tires because you added the weight of the snow blower on the front of your tractor. I keep my 400lb tiller on the back of my tractor when I'm plowing snow.
I have a front snowblower on my B2650 and a very hilly property but I was fine last winter with just the box blade on the back because of chains and liquid filled tires. So that is another way to get weight on the back and the box blade is handy sometimes to scale up slush or powder before it freezes.
Found yourself a weight lifting class without membership fees. Lol. The snow I get in Oregon is nowhere near what snow you get. My snow (if the state gets any) is usually wet and is easy to blade off without chains in town and below 2,000 ft (rough estimate). If this idea would work for you. Try using the boxscraper going in reverse to push a majority of snow out of the drive before snow blowing.
Instead of passing the rope through the wheel, simply make a long loop of rope with each end attached to either side of the chain as it sits on the ground. Pass the loop of the rope over the lugs of the tire, well up from the ground and then move the tractor forward. The chain will be dragged onto the tire as you move forward.
@@keithmacgregor4841 Thanks Keith, what you suggested is what I've been thinking about doing..... I probably read something to that affect about 7 years ago on TractorByNet, but we haven't had enough snow yet this year to try it out. I've used GP's method on my larger tractor and it works very well.
Morning Doug. I think I kind of have to chock it up to being a newbie. Guy has never needed tire chains for 15 years up here so I figured I wouldn't need them either. But I have learned that his machine is a lot heavier and bigger than mine. I don't get stuck often but the few times I do is frustrating (because I cannot get out.LOL) Knowing what I know now, I definitely should have bought them from the start. Thanks and all the best in Vermont! Beautiful countrysides there!
Excellent video and most timely; thank you. I live in North Bay and, for my JD 1025r, I too need to purchase chains as I will begin plowing our 600' driveway this winter. What criteria did you use to determine that the H Pattern V Bar was most suitable for you? I haven't a clue as to what type of tire chain the I need.
Good day Peter and thanks for the question. I had a lot of good advice from many subscribers (the subscribers on this channel are pretty awesome - I am very fortunate) in the comments throughout last winter. I learned that with R4 tires, a regular pattern chain may often fall in between the treads on the tire so many advised to get either a Diamond Pattern or H pattern design - this way they will stay on top of the treads all the time. The V hook or studded chains were advised as well to help dig into the ice. I chose the V hook because they appeared more aggressive and we get alot of snow and ice conditions here, so I figured if I was going to buy them, I wanted to make sure I would get the traction I was hoping for.- especially with those tow big hills on my driveway. However, I have noticed that these V hooks offer a very rough ride when on bare ground, but I am expecting that once I get the snow, it shouldn't be as rough a ride. We'll see in the coming months. Thanks again and hope this helped. Cheers!
Thank you. My driveway, although not as long as yours, has similar characteristics (small hills, lots of snow and, at certain times of the year ice, particularly early and late season), so the chain style and pattern may be quite suitable for me. Again, thank you for the timely video, your response and a "local" chain source. Good luck this winter.
Hi GP. You mentioned potentially adding chains to the front later if necessary. In a past video you mentioned that the 4 wheel drive cannot be used with chains. Have you found other information stating differently. I might need some of those chains this winter. If so I will have to look at that company, they seem to have the customer in mind and Canadian on top of that.
Good evening Alain. A great question. Many debates and differing opinions on this from so many folks. I will be using them - 2 wheel or 4 wheel drive - as needed and will also followup further with the dealer. You may want to speak with yours directly before you purchase them - I think it would be helpful for you too. Thanks and all the best!
Good morning Alain. After getting through my comments, a number of subscribers have offered information regarding why we shouldn't put chains on the front and use 4WD - when you have time perhaps take a look through all the comments - they can explain it better than I. Hope this helps. Cheers!
Hey GP, at 7:59 mins into your video, check out the open space on your tire not covered by chain. Note, don't worry and it isn't significant. But I wonder if the extra chain should be crossed over and connected via a quick link? It might maintain the overall chain pattern that you have across the rest of the tire.
I was rewatching your video since I am getting ready to install my chains. I know I need to address one tire to ensure I get a full consistent chain pattern around the full circumference.
Good morning and thanks Ron. I will take a look at both of them. I do notice sometimes I can feel that spot as the wheel turns. Perhaps i need to adjust as you have suggested. Thanks again! I really appreciate it. Cheers and good luck with yours!
G P on my old tracyor it had chains a pain to put them on after years finaly got them without any skined knuckles the B X we have now is four wheel drive have not any truble in snow yet if do wwill look for some Thank You God Bless PaK
Good evening Rick - thanks for asking. He is getting better so hope to see him out soon. I'll let him know you asked. Have a great week and thanks again!
Gord, Did you look at the "double duty regular link"? If so, why did you pick the H-Pattern? Will take delivery on a B2601 with 12x16.5 R4 Industrial tires in Jan. and the Kubota dealer (southern Ontario) quoted me Walco 7/32, 2 link spacing chains. I couldn't find my tire size on the Canadian Chains web site. I called twice to discuss with them and left messages with no response. Thanks, Brent User
Good morning Brent! I did. In my case I only need chains for the rough part of the winter - I don't need any help the rest of the year. So, based on all the feedback and suggestions from subscribers, I looked at all the different patterns I could find and I figured I wanted to make sure I got a very aggressive pattern to make sure I would get maximum traction. I understand that the double duty has twice the number of chinas (If I remember correctly) but was not sure if I would still have chains falling in-between the tire treads and also, the v- hook (as well as a couple other types) provided a chain that had a stud or hook to dig in. The H pattern was to ensure that the chains didn't fall between the treads. My chain update video will go live at 9:00 am this morning. It may be possible that I could have been fine with a double duty or other type chain, but with the hills on the driveway and the amount of ice etc we get up here, I didn't;t want to spend the money to find I was not able to get the traction I needed. First time ever having chains so I figured better to be safe than wish I had bought something else. Hope that helps. I have never used chains before so can't really offer an opinion to help you out. re: Canadian chains. I never spoke to them on the phone but emailed them a few times and got an answer on email within a day or so each time. Good luck and hey, Congrats on the new tractor!! All the best!
Hi GP, I live in Ontario also, being hit by freezing rain this weekend, my gravel driveway is an ice rink. I am thinking of getting chains front and back. my question: do you know if they sell spacers for the B2601 front wheel? there doesn't seem to be enough space for chains on the front wheel as is. tx Dan
Hey good morning Dan! Nice to meet another Ontarian. I do not believe you can get spacers for the front and I agree with you - when I turn my wheels, there is no room for chains to be attached, IMO. I was also told by the dealer that I should not run chains on both the back and front tires on the B series. So you may wish to ask your dealer about that first (just a suggestion). However, I just started using my rear chains with the 4WD engaged on the ice and snow from the last storm and wow, what a difference. Those videos will be out this week at some point. Hopefully they will give some further input to help you make your decisions. Good luck and be safe out there!
One thing I forgot too mention in my comment is there is some aftermarket company’s that make different wheel spacer kits for tractors . If you can’t get them from your dealer there is other options 👍
Gord, why do you mention that you did not want to put chains on your front tires? Are you worried that there is too much grip and no slip in the wheels when required? Are you worried of a differential problem down the road?
Hi Sean, yes and yes. My dealer, as well as others recommended not to put chains on the front - only the back. Many subscribers have suggested it is ok to do all four. But I am not sure they have small, compact tractors. Also, in my case, the sub-frame for the front mount blower would be in the way when i turn the wheels sharply. And there were also discussions around possibly issues with the differential and the overall circumference ratios between the rear and front tires. I decided to follow the dealer's advice ( since they are holding the warranty). :)) But we sure had some great and plentiful debates about it in the comments of many videos back then. Take care!
I can attest that even with chains on all four tires you will still have slippage so no risk of damage. I have a JD CUT similar in size to Gordon's Kubota and JD even sold factory wheel spacers for the front tires for the express purpose of using tire chains. In the parts book it even lists "for tire chains". Without them the chain comes dangerously close to the tie rod ends. I've used chains on all four tires for going on 8 years now and it's still easy to make the front tires lose traction in the snow. :-) Now here's the strange part... front chains are okay but they warn against putting fluid in the front tires. Dealer even said it would void the warranty. Weird, eh?
I would still recommend wheel spacers since the chains won't come off during winter and you never know when you are going to pickup a stick and it starts wrapping around.
Good morning Bob. Great question. Several subscribers advised not to get regular pattern because the chain will have a tendency to fall in between the treads on the R4 tires, reducing the amount of chain riding over the treads, and so recommended I go with either a diamond pattern or H pattern. Both of those pattern's designs keeps the chains on top of the treads. It made sense to me. We'll see how they work soon, I think. Rough ride on bare ground, I noticed but hopefully it will be smoother in the snow. Cheers and all the best!
@@GPOutdoors I agree with you about the 'H' and diamond patterned chains staying on top of the tread for better grippage. Every set I own is the standard style. My older brother doubled the number cross chains to one of his sets for a Massey Harris 44 with 14.9 x 38 rears. Then he welded horse shoes across every other pair of cross chains and wanting more grippage bent and welded 5/8 or 3/4" rebar on outer surface of the horse shoes. That big old beast will slog through muddy trenches halfway to the knees of a tall man. Snow poses no problem at all. Being a tricycle tractor steering is with the brakes in heavy mud or snow. The chains now weigh approximately 200 to 250 pounds each, conservatively.
Hi Gp I found the same thing websites are not user friendly. I emailed a few- no response. Did you have to cut the excess links off? Thanks for your videos. I will check this company out How do you find time to answer all? Regards
Good evening Lee! Thanks for letting me know. I never tried to call them. I just emailed my questions and got a reasonable response within a day or two. I guess they really are an "on-line" company. LOL. Takes a lot of time for sure, but really appreciate your comments and that you watch so I try my best to answer. Plus, it's nice to have some great on-line friends. :)) Cheers and enjoy your week Lee!
Hi GP! May I ask you something? Do you use water or beetjuice as an ballast in your tire? If so, what is your experience in the winter?nbetter grip or to much weight? Greetings
Good morning! They are filled with Rim Guard ( beet Juice0. Good to -35 degrees celsius I believe. Very important to fill the tires for weight. Happy I did. Well worth the money for sure. Very important for winter but also in general for doing work all the time. Hope that helps - Cheers!
I think it was around $600 CDN. I have since purchased new Aquiline chains ( there is an updated video on my channel) and they were about the same but a much smoother ride.
GP I just finalized an order for a new B2650 with a B2782 snowblower and a B2763 front blade and I opted for the wheel spacers based on the dealers recommendation. So is your dealers kabota mechanic still against chains? And how will his advice effect how you use them.... questions you can address in the upcoming video you mentioned.
Good evening and congratulations Tracey! You must be really excited and counting the days until it arrives. Re: The spacers. Yup, I ended up needing them and installed them - video will be out on Thursday. When you have a few minutes, look through the other comments on this video - a couple others also said their dealers advised not to put chains on the front and one other Dealer also suggested not to use 4WD like mine did- apparently there is also a issue to do with clearance in the front tires if you try to use chains according to a couple of the subscribers above. I will use 2WD generally, as I do now and especially on dry or more solid surfaces but I think ( just my thoughts) that if I am on surfaces ( snow , ice etc) that allow for wheel split, then I would like to think that $WD should be ok but I decided tonight I will discuss in more detail with my dealer again. Congrats again on the new tractor! Please let me know how it goes! Cheers!
@@GPOutdoors ... A large reason I decided to get the B2650 with a snowblower is based on watching your videos. I turned 60 this year and I decided I was ready for a second/smaller tractor.... one with a heated cab. It has been taking me at least 6 hours with my M9540 ROPS to clear the snow at my place, and at my age I figure that I deserve to be comfortable when I'm out working in the weather.... I still love my M9540, but I'm looking forward to a heated cab and hydraulics for use in the Winter when the winds are howling and the snow is blowing sideways. I look forward to watching your next video.
@@GPOutdoors I wouldn't exactly say no chance. I looked at them sometime ago to put on my jeep liberty. Cost about $35,000 for all four corners. But hey, you ever play the lotto? You play it to a certain extent daily. It's called life. 🤔🤔🤔
Tom, you are far too wise and poetic. LOL. You must be at least in your 50"s.. Too funny. (But true, I have to admit). Be well and talk again soon. Cheers!
@@GPOutdoors nice thoughts of the 50's. I'm actually 62. But if you do it mathematically, I'd be 63. I completed my 62 birth anniversary, then started on my 63 year. Think about that. 🤔🤔🤔
Good morning John. Me too. The dealer suggested that I try to keep it in 2WD with the chains on for the most part. So I plan on doing that where possible. I will talk with them more, but from what I gather, unless I am on a surface that allows for the wheels to slip easily, it will cause strain (?) on the front wheels in 4WD. And many have advised that if I do use 4WD, then not to turn sharply. Thanks for the question. Cheers!
I was told by my dealer that I wouldn't need chains with a 4WD tractor.... HAH! Without chains I can barely pull out of the garage when it is icy. I need chains on all four tires because with the front snow blower raised off the ground it lightens the rear end enough that the rear tires spin even with chains. That's with fluid filled rear tires. Once the snow blower is lowered to the ground it's not a problem. I think the folks who say not to use chains on all four are thinking it will cause drive train binding because the tires won't slip. Well, chains or no chains the tires still have no problem slipping a bit in the snow and ice. :-)
Hello. I live in Norway. There is a lot of snow here. I've been putting chains on tractors for 35 years. You put chains on incorrectly. The opening of the lock should point forward. You're doing it wrong.
GP I could not believe the difference between chains and not. Now I can push snow uphill! Thanks for the advice.
Great to hear they worked out for you - big difference for sure. All the best!
Wow, whew, for a minute there I thought we in the near north had just missed a bullet!! A white one, 😂.
LOL. All good - for now....Cheers VB!
Never seen chains being put on before. A good tutorial on how to do it.
Thanks Mark! I followed the directions from Canadian Chains website and it worked very well. The chains are about 60 lbs a piece so this removed any need to fight with them to get them on. Cheers!
Thanks for sharing your chains, it was very formative 👍🇺🇸
you are most welcome Lloyd. Cheers!
I purchased chains a couple of years ago from the same place. My tires are 14.9 x 24 and the compatible chains will fit several sizes larger as well, so I just overlapped the excess and attached them with hammer links. Those little clevises need to have the pins wired or zip tied to the chain, they will rattle out in no time at all. Once they are secured they won't spin out, even if only finger tight. Now that you have these, with the diff lock engaged, the wheels will take turns grabbing but still move you through the icy patches.
Thanks William. This is good information and helpful. I will tie them for sure. The chains themselves fit great- no excess except the added links hanging so I am very happy with them so far. Can't wait to see the difference. Cheers!
Hey buddy, I wanted to look up this video to see the type of chain you went with, I'll need spacers on my L2501, I think I'll go with front chains, just because I use my loader bucket, and I get a lot of push, (tires turn, tractor goes straight) when plowing. I noticed tho when you put on the chain tightening bunjis, you had the hooks facing your tire. As and old flatbed truck driver, and Wisconsin to the west coast and back runner, you always want the hook facing out. If they're facing the tires, anything you hit, like a tree stump or rock, could push the hook right thru your sidewall, and sidewalls can't be patched. I love your videos, especially the latest auger positioning one. Who'd of thunk it! I checked my blower and sure enough, it was wrong. I test drove it the wrong way, then switched and sure enough it made a huge difference. This is on just a 33" walk behind Troybilt. Eventually I'll have a 64" on the rear of my L2501, but 1st I've my sights on a 36" high by 72" snow pusher for the front. Well I'm rambling. God bless, & CHEERS from Wisconsin!
Hey good morning IHB. I am happy it helped and made a big difference for you too. I should have listened to Guy years ago but I just didn't think it mattered. But happy you got yours humming. I like these H pattern V hooks alot but they were pretty $$ compared to regular loop type chains. All the best in Wisconsin and thanks for tuning in and for the comments this morning!
Thank you and enjoy your all your video's. I have never used chain's and my Kubota L2501 in the winter nor on my ford N-8 with a back blade. The only tractor I had to was the farmall M because of the weight of the front of the tractor with the loader installed. I live in north western Michigan. Keep doing the good work and I will keep watching.
Good evening and thanks for the kind comments William, and for sharing your experience. I was hoping I would not need the chains myself, but that "Steep" hill on the driveway is the only place I have trouble sometimes getting over so finally decided I best get the traction. All the best and thanks again for watching and for the great comments tonight! Cheers!
GP, I heard you mention that over the winter you will evaluate whether front chains are required. I was told by a Kubota dealer technician the general guidance is to not put chains on the front of a compact tractor that can engage 4WD. Apparently it places significant stress on the drive train gears/components and it has been reported that it can cause major issues. I don't know if this is correct but it was enough to convince me to stay clear of front chains. The biggest downfall of not having chains on the front is the lack of steering while on ice. But if you take it slow I would say you will be pleased with having the tryggs deployed on the rear tires. You will have excellent traction forward and backward for either snow blowing or plowing/bucket work. For those that use chains on the front, it could be the case they have unique demanding requirements and at the end of the day, a tractor is a workhorse, so one needs to equip for the use case at hand to get the outcome required. But since your tractor is relatively new and I don't think you have an extreme use case, rear chains only is probably best.
Hey good evening Ron. I agree 100% with you and appreciate you taking the time to outline it for me. My dealer said the same thing to me and although I didn't;t totally understand it, I understand what you just described. I will try to stay away from any front chains and if for some reason I think I need them, then I will go in and talk directly with the mechanic at the dealer. They are really great and helpful there. For now, let's see how the rears do for me. Thanks again for taking the time to explain it. Have a great weekend!
@@GPOutdoors after using and abusing three Kubota tractors since '82 my opinion is that these little guys are so overbuilt that they will sustain most any small additional strain that may be put on the drive train due to front chains. Of course I broke the B2400 in two, snapping every bolt attaching the front to the rear. But that was because of what I was doing with the loader. I run 4 wheel chains almost continuously on all three Kubotas and have never had any issues with the drive trains, bearings or castings. How's that for a testimonial...??
Ron makes some very good points however, and it is always better to follow your dealer or his technicians suggestions rather than a registered tractor abuser such as myself !! But also like he said above....these little guys are workhorses ~!! I love them.
LOL T! Now that was some kind of endorsement if I ever heard one. I'll bet those tractors hang around at night out there together telling each other stories about you. LOL. I'm sure it'a all good though. Thanks for the words of wisdom and experience my friend. I'll take it slow and a little at a timer now and see how things go, I think. Thanks again and hope you and Mrs. T enjoy the weekend!
What do you think about front chains but keeping it in 2wd? I think 2wd with 4 chains may provide more benefit in snow/ice than 4wd with 2 rear chains.
Greetings Gord, Lee here, happy to see you got your chains, they will make a great difference this winter. those chains are a good choice, with that design the cross chains will not be falling in between the groves of the tires, they have to stay on top of the cross bars of the tread similar to the type I have on the B7510. I do have 1 chain only on the front, just on there for steering when the driveway gets icy. A number of people told me not to put chains on both front tires, they said that it would put too much strain on the front axle and it could cause serious problems as it is not as the axle is not as sturdy as the rear. This way if the chained front wheel got a lot of traction the other tire will spin and take the tension off the chained tire. It made sense to me. As usual another well made and informative video. Later
Good morning Lee. Thanks for the information and suggestion. I had not thought of that, but am aware of the strain issues etc and a few folks also mentioned that a chain on the front on this B series may interfere with some part (?) under there, in the front. I'll have to look into it further. Thanks again and all the best!
Well done.. I was struggling with my chains, your calm and relatable demeanor was just the perfect pace to follow.
I am happy it helped a little Jasen! All the best!
I am sure you see a big difference. 👍
Thanks Laurie. I am looking forward to it. Cheers!
Those look so good I am tempted to get a pair here in Florida. Cheers!
LOL David! I think you will be ok without them. :)) But thanks - I am pretty happy with them - looking forward to seeing how much of a difference they make. Have a great week!
I like your style, not waiting till the last minute. Good Call. Thanks for the great content.
Cheers OT! All the best!
Great GP! For the most I can read, it's positive comments! You will feel like driving a new tractor with chains! Thanks!
Thanks again Joe! Looking forward to seeing how they work in the snow ( plus, the ride gets a little rough on bare ground - hopefully it will be a little smoother again once I get some snow..LOL).
How's she goin'? Those are awesome chains GP!!! I have been looking for another set of chains too. I was amazed that it was a challenge to find a Canadian supplier for chains. You would have thought Canada would have been a good source for winter tire chains, but the I found more suppliers from the southern US than in Canada. Who new!!! I did find Canadian Chains though and their site was sure easy to use like you say. I think they are doing it right with the way they show their products and also the variety of chains they have available is nothing short of 'chain shoppers' heaven!!! LOL I bet you'll see a big difference with those chains this winter. You will be impressed!!! Thanks for the info in this video GP. Much appreciated!!!
Good day Grampie. Yup, very happy so far with the product - fits perfectly on the tires - not sure why they had those extra links dangling off the end but perhaps there are uses that require them but the chains fit great. Rough ride with those V hooks when you are on bare ground, I tell you. LOL. I might need seat cushion but we'll see how they work in the white stuff. Be well and all the best!
@@GPOutdoors You did a great job putting them on, so maybe putting them on the snow might not be too bad!!! That way you won't have to run them on bare ground as much!!!
Those are mean looking chains, They will work great! Anxious to see the results, but not anxious for winter snow :) Thanks for sharing.
Same here DK! Taking them into the muddy forest today to try them out. Stay tuned! Cheers!
Great video and yes it’s time that we start getting ready for winter here in northern Michigan. I have a new holland tc35d 4x4 and I ended up putting chains on because we have a valley in our driveway and found out that I needed fronts also now it’s a tank I found out the best way to put those chains on was to jack up the wheel and put one on at a time very easy to spin and adjust and make as tight as possible and don’t cut the extra off I just use had zip ties and never had a problem
Good evening Robert! Thanks for the great advice - a couple other folks suggested that too. I will give it a try when I need to put them back on. Thanks again and all the best - we had flurries here yesterday so it is coming soon, I think! Cheers!
Hi GP, I live in the laurentians in Quebec. Plenty of snow and ice here. I have a b3200 and have chains installed as well. I would recommend getting wheel spacers. When you travel the chains will slacken a bit and the chains will rip your inner fenders ( trust me on this). Also wheel spacers will provide that extra width for stability all year. Leave them on all the time. I don’t think they recommend wheel chains for the front tires (not enough clearance) I put on tire studs for the fronts. They provide the extra grip when needed on ice. Hope this helps.
Good evening Gerry! This helps a lot - thanks very much! I didn't know about the clearance issue in the front until tonight, so I am happy I didn't spend the money on them. You are correct - I figured out I need the wheel spacers for sure - you will see on Thursday. And my dealer also did not recommend chains for the front either. I am looking forward to seeing how they work come winter. Thanks again and all the best!
I agree, anything that widens the wheelbase is a good safety factor on a hilly property. My dealer recommended them for that reason before I even discussed chains with him.
Good Evening Sir !! Those are some super deluxe looking chains. I really like the ice grips and you will find they are superior to standard chains. I can't wait until you get about ten inches of powder. I gotta tell you though, I sure am wishing you'd have bought 'em for all four wheels but also am totally sure you will notice the traction difference with just the rears alone. Of course its easy spending someone else's money. LOL.
Thank you GP, for tagging Joe and myself in your discussion on the chains. That was a cool surprise and the Missus even commented from across the room....which made me laugh.
Good morning T! Thanks again . You know me - I am going to walk a bit before I start running. LOL. But appreciate the advice as always. I am heading into the forest with them on today. So may days and so many inches of rain that it is some muddy back there. Thought it might make for a good dry run, so to speak. All the best to you and your lovely Missus. Cheers!
@@GPOutdoors Thank you sir and she just flashed me a quick smile.
I have little experience with chains but I have heard to air the tires down then install the chains as tight as possible after they are secure air the tires back up
Good evening H. I had not heard of that. I will check into it and see. Thanks for the advice - I appreciate it. All the best!
@@GPOutdoorsthe whole point of dropping the pressure before install is to get the chains as tight as possible. This method works great for atv tires. I'm not sure it will work so well on a stiff tractor tire. You definitely don't want to try it if your tires are loaded. I can't wait to see how well they work. Maybe a trip down the driveway in a foot of fresh snow with out using the blower haha.
Thanks Brad. They are loaded so I appreciate the followup on this. I like that idea - I think I will. Cheers and thanks again!
This is what I do with the chains on my John Deere d125. Works great to get the chains tight. And with the extra chain links I use a zip tie.
Great video. A couple tips:
1) definitely leave at LEAST 2-3 links, so you can hook the chains up without a struggle again next fall. Wire-tie the extra links to the perimeter chains so that they don't flop around and stay secure through the winter.
2) A properly tightened chain does NOT need elastic tightners. Always roll the tractor around WITHOUT tightners. After you re-tighten the chains 2-3 times, the chains will be tight for the winter. Use the tightners if you like, but ONLY after the chains are already properly tightened.
Good afternoon David. Thanks very much for the great advice! I left 3 links and wire tied them as you suggested. I did not know about the tightener stuff but when i put them back on for the snow, i will be sure to do that. I will use the tighteners because I have them but will follow your advice first. Cheers and all the best to you. I really appreciate it!
Glad the “tips” were useful. Thanks for the kind reply. I really enjoy the videos - keep it up :)
Looks like a real winner..I think they will work awesome
Thanks CM! Very happy with them so far. A bit of a rough ride now, when on bare ground, but I assume it will be much smoother when the snow gets here. Have a great week my friend!
I'd be curious how they handle on asphalt like someone's driveway and or roadway., I wonder if they would scrape the driveway or mark the driveway similar to how snowmobile carbides destroy asphalt
Its a good question CM. No asphalt driveways around here but the main concession road is paved so i will see how it goes on there. Cheers!
Glad to see that you got chains for your tractor . You were hesitant at first because it might effect your factory warranty . Bought and sold in Canada which is a good thing . I see you tied the chain to the wheel and then drove the chain on . That's how NB88 did it last year when he first got his chains . That's the best way of putting chains on . No more worries about that hill anymore . LOL Let the snow fly .
Good morning Henry! Yup, I can't wait for a couple of feet of snow so I can tackle that hill! LOL. Yes I saw his video and the instructions from Canadian Chains also followed that method too. Was pretty easy to do. Hope you are doing great - all the best Henry!
Wow... when winter gets here you'll be known around the territory as Mr. Traction!! :-) You did good for the first time driving them onto the tire. I normally jack up one tire at a time with a floor jack and then manually rotate the tire to roll them on.
Good day Joe. I will give that method a try as well. A couple other said they do the same thing. LOL. Cheers from Mr. Traction!
Good for you GP. You'll notice a big difference this winter. Like others have said I wouldn't run chains on the front tires. 👍
Thanks Dale! Hope you are getting winter- ready. It's coming! Cheers!
Hey GP....good research and glad you found what chains you were looking for......now maybe you scared winter away....lmao.....well we can always hope.....have a great week and take care my friend....... :)
LOL. Well that's usually how it works, Don. Now that I have the chains, we probably won't get much snow this winter. LOL. So true. All the best my friend. Cheers!
Thanks for the video buddy.
Good evening GP !!! Congrats, now that's very strong and big chains for your tractor. You will love them on snow and ice. I'm very happy for you that you do not need wheel spacer but for me having the wheel spacer was great to stabilise the tractor with the backhoe or side of the montaine. Sincerely very happy for you GP ! Nota: You will also love to have them on your front wheel for better direction and traction but you have separate wheel brake control on your tractor to help to steer in case of slippery condition. The only worried I have is the difference wheel ratio between the front and the back,,, having two sets of chains will eliminate that problem. Cheers !!!
Thanks Dave! Unfortunately, I needed the spacers. But better to get them and not try to go without them. Cheers and enjoy the rest of the week my friend! Cheers!
@@GPOutdoors Chut,, I'm sorry Sir,,, but you will gain better stability into the forest. Make sure their are not larger that your snowblower or front bucket. You too have a great week GP !!! .
Looks like a nice set of chains!!!
Great video. Thanks for the info. I'll look into it. It is cooling off here in Alberta so it won't be long before the chains are needed.
Michael from Alberta
Good morning and thanks Michael! Cheers!
Hey GP, good to see you doing a practice run. Might try one under the shed roof if you can. Much nicer to install them somewhat out of the weather 😉. Just me, I would feel much better with the wheel spacer so I won’t hear the chains hitting the fender. Won’t take much wear before they hook onto the fender? Chains on the front offer better steering to keep the plow on the road with a front push plow but you really have to keep them tight so they don’t damage things while turning. You will do fine with them because you check your equipment before every use each day. You won’t be able to get the smile off your face when you use them for the first time this winter . Enjoy them and be safe.
Good morning ODD. I am looking forward to seeing how they work come winter. As usual, your advice is correct. I just installed the spacers- for the reasons you suggested. I will stay away from the front chains for now as others have cautioned similarly to what you mentioned too. Let's see if the rears do the trick for me. Cheers and all the best- thanks again ODD!
This is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!
Cheers Timothy! Good luck!
Welcome to the chain gang! Those chains will give you lots of traction this winter. You will find you will almost never need 4x4 now. But I think you’re going to find it hard to steer. You can use your left and right brake or add front Chains and run in 2x4. I just run Chains on the front my b2601 and 4x4. The rear tires slip and don’t cause “ bind up”. I have rears but haven’t had to put them on yet due to no need. Have a good one!
Mitch.
Good day and thanks for the info Mitch. Glad to be part of the gang . LOL. Good information about the steering and the 2WD. I will find out shortly I think. Thanks again and have a good week! Cheers!
Instead of cutting extra chain, bolt it with flat washers on both sides and it will serve as a fail safe in the event the over center lock releases. The comment about reducing air pressure when installing is correct. I would add spacers, a chain can tear a fender up in a hurry. Good luck playing in the snow.
Good evening David! Thanks for the great advice. Figured out I will need the spacers for sure. Cheers and thanks again!
You will wonder how you did without them . I have used chains on tractors for over thirty years . For logging in winter / ice and slush and deep snow even muddy conditions in the spring . Some people depending on there tractor model in a 4x4 compacts will find the issue is usally at the front tires for clearance of steering arm ball joint or axle hub . Wheel spacers will be needed then . On the John Deere’s we found the spacer kit in parts for the tractor not in the accessory options . Those chains you bought are good choice with the vee spikes . Just don’t spin the tires on pavement or concrete they are rippers 😂. I jack the tractor up then find easy too install the chains and connecting at bottom . All the slack is out then . 👍
Good evening Ridgeback. Thanks very kindly for the great advice - I really appreciate the information. It turns out I need the spacers unfortunately - just not enough room under there. Stay tuned for Thursday... Thanks again and all the best!
@@GPOutdoors How bad is your clearance issue? Some car guys stick a Louisville Slugger between the wheel and fender then drive forward pinching the bat between the tire and fender thus pushing the fender out. If your clearance issue is only due to sheet metal a small piece of limb wood might be your friend.
Thanks Brad. I used a crowbar to bend it out a bit but there are hydraulic hoses and electrical wires under the right side, among other things. Thanks for the idea though - greatly appreciate it!
When you cut off the excess chain, cut it so that you can catch the last loop in the shackle. This should leave enough for you to have a good hand hold when installing and a ready place to hook the extra. No extra part and pieces to keep up with.
I have limited experience with chains, but they add a lot more traction than you would think. In my experience, a zip tie to lock the tightener in place is cheap piece of mind that it stays in place when you hit a good size rock.
Thanks for the advice Coy! I appreciate it very much. Sounds like good practices to do. Have a great week!
Did I remember your rear tires were loaded too? The opening clip doesn't make us aware how steep your hill must be. I gotta say you are the master of research! Cheers!
Hey Michael. Yes indeed - they are filled with RimGuard (beet juice). It gets really deep once you pass the half way point. That's where I get caught up. LOL! Well, perhaps not a master but I try to do my homework. Cheers and all the best!
I just wanted to say thank you. I have been enjoying the videos very much and always learn something. We plan to take delivery of our new tractor in April. Still trying to decide between the B2301 and the B2601 . Pallet forks and a grapple are still being researched as well. Maybe your grapple or the Artillian . Thanks again, Ben from Nova Scotia
Congratulations Ben! That's great! If I may offer, to keep in mind as you finalize your decision, I found that when looking to buy rear PTO driven implements, the PTO HP is important as each implement needs a minimum amount of HP in order to run properly and the variety of available PTO driven implements available are less for tractors with lower PTO HP's. The 2301 has 17 HP on the PTO and the 2601 has 19. So it might be helpful if you spend some time looking at some of the possible rear implements you may want in the future and checking their minimum PTO HP requirements ( you will find them online easily). Hope that helps a bit. Best of luck Ben! Cheers!
@@GPOutdoors Thanks GP Outdoors.
We took the trip to our dealer today and drooled over the tractors, and took your advice. A B2601 it will be. Our problem is it will be April when we take delivery. So we are depending on you to keep those great videos comming, to get us through until our tractor arrives.
Thanks again, I have to go now and learn about putting spacers on a B2601
Take care,
Ben from Nova Scotia
Nice work putting on the chains! It looks like you choose nice ones. My two comments would be trim off all but two links of the excess like you said. Wire or I find zip tie them out of the way. My second suggestion is when you put them on next time drive them on even slower and if you can get one a helper to slowly adjust them as you drive on really helps there. My brother and I have been doing that for years with my parent's tractor.
Thank you for all the research you did on the purchasing. I know that I am going to need chains on my own much shorter but very steep driveway once I finally get a B series.
Good day and thanks for the great advice Chad. Makes sense - will do for sure. Have a great week and all the best Chad!
I forgot one thing. A good pair of channel lock pliers are very handy for closing the clasp on the chains. Sometimes the will let you get that one extra link tighter. Have a good week too!
Thanks Chad! Cheers!
Man I can't wait to see how those preform in the snow and ice. I'll stay tuned!
Me too, Jeremy. I almost want the snow to come now . LOL. Cheers and thanks!
Yep, those should do the trick. Wonder why there's so much chain leftover if they're sized for your tires? Maybe it's just standard protocol by the manufacturer or perhaps a specific reason?
Good morning GWT. I was pondering the same question. For clarity, those chains fit the tires perfectly - I am very happy. The extra links are on the strands that you wrap through the fasteners, so I came to the same conclusion that perhaps there are scenarios where you might need a couple extra links to grab with the fasteners. But the actual chain itself is a great fit on the tires themselves - no need to adjust or remove links or anything. Thanks for watching and for the comment this morning. Cheers!
GP. Great looking chains. I run chains on my rear wheels of my compact tractor. I live in the hills of upstate NY and glad I have them. My chains were also a little long just like yours. I cut the excess off and left only 2 extra links. I use a couple of heavy duty tie wraps and secure these 2 links to the main chain. I pay attention to keep them “dressed” so everything stays clear of fenders or anything else they can touch. Great job on your videos. Jim
Good evening and thanks for the good information Jim. I appreciate you sharing it with me. I will do the same for sure. Have a great night and thanks for watching and for the comments tonight!
Good idea checking them out before you need them on GP! I think the next time it snows here. I'm going to get me a set! LOL Have a good week GP!
LOL! Too funny John. Happy I did - kind of tough doing it in negative temperatures and snow. Have a good one my friend!
Hi GP make sure you have extra chain links and the tool to fix them with it in case one break and other thing after winter is over hang them up to dry.
Thanks Richard! Some great ideas. Makes sense - I'll have to find a spot in the shed to hang them up. Cheers and thanks again!
I have never used chains but might I suggest that instead of cutting the excess links off, simply use a heavy duty carabiner or like contraption to hook them onto another part of the chain...that way you'll always have those extra links handy...just in case!
I say cut 'em off. I had a tractor once that I figured I leave the pigtail "just in case". 20 years later that pigtail was still flopping around. Once you have the chains fitted properly you will never need that extra pigtail and it will forever be something that you have to contend with to keep it from coming loose and flopping around and catching on things. With the chains trimmed to the proper length you simply attach the latch and hook to the last loop and you are good to go. Otherwise each year you have to re-figure out which loop you used for a proper fit.
@@eosjoe565 Makes good sense to me!
Good morning and thanks for the great idea Shaun. I left a few of them on and put the others in my work cabinet to keep. Cheers and have a great week!
I totally agree. So you don't need to re-figure which loop is the good one. The only adjustment that can happen, the tire will wear down, as well as the chains links, then you may have to gain one more link shorter in 10 years... Lol!
If you put them on to tight it they want to bind in the cleats. But if they are tight you don't the bungies. We ran chains every winter on some tractors but with 4wd they only go on when it gets icy and then it's just on the back. If you put them on the front you have to be careful not to turn to sharp
Good day Jamie. Super helpful information - thanks! I appreciate it. A few other folks said the same things so I will stick with the rear and see how it goes, and keep it in mind for sure. Thanks again and all the best!
Hey GP, great discussion here. Last year, when you started to consider chains and your tractor, we had a bit of this discussion. Glad to see you went so far in-depth with considering chains. Your channel is great. A BIG YES on the wheel spacers, as you concluded. Each tractor owner has to consider these options.
Thanks so much Merton. I always appreciate the time you good folks take to help provide some good advice. It helps me a lot. Really appreciated. And very happy with the purchase. Thanks again nd all the best!
Hi GP glad you got your tire chains. I told you when i got my tractor new i also ordered it with rear tire chains. I ended up removing them when they delivered my tractor as they were rubbing the fenders. I could see you had lots of clearance. John Deere doesn't have that. Also my tractor has the plastic fenders, i was afraid of damaging or breaking them. I suppose I can get spacers to extend and/or widening the space. Chains can sure be beneficial. Take care buddy, Cheers.
Good morning Dean! Thanks for sharing. Yes, these things were scraping here and there and After talking with Guy, we figured, I better get the spacers. Installed them now and happy I did - lots of room now. I am looking forward to seeing how they work in the snow. All the best my friend!
Great video Gord and thanks for the tip on the source for chains in Canada. My driveway at home is only about 250 ft long but it has a nasty hill that tends to get very icy after a few freeze/thaw cycles. I suspect even with 4 wheel drive, my L4060 may still struggle on that hill without chains. My old Massey 50 will hardly move on ice without them, and while it’s only a 2WD, I’m not sure 4WD helps much with rubber on ice!
After what I spent on the new tractor and implements, I’m not sure I want to spring for chains thus year, but need may override want! Cheers!
Good morning Dave! I went two winters without them, but on occasion, I just can't get up that Steep hill- not often but of course, on those few days, it is tough not being able to get out. For reference, Guy has an L3400 and he has never used chains in the 15 years he has had the tractor up here. And he always gets up my Steep Hill. That's why I resisted chains for so long. But I think at the end of the day, my B is not as heavy as the L series or as big, of course, so perhaps you can give it a whirl this winter and see how it performs before deciding. Also, this style of chain ( V hook) offers a very rough ride I am noticing but we'll see how it goes over the winter. Cheers!
The expense and work of spacers might not be a plus at first thought, but it will add more stability in the little wider stance... Chains on the front will definitely help with steering but if you wanna try at first before chaining them; un-hook your break pedals to work the rear brakes independently and depress each pedal to help the chains on back to bite slowing one wheel and help you turn. Think ABS system, pump brake the wheel so you don't lock up and slide 😉... Will feel a tad awkward at first and having to get used to. ☺
Good morning BB! Some great advice as always. Yup, I installed the wheel spacers and it was a lot of work for me ( sometimes I wish I had a more mechanical background my friend) but hey, I got them in. Thanks for the tip on the rear brakes. I also heard from a few subscribers that there are issues trying to use chains on the front on these B series (clearance or interference with something , I think). But I will work the brakes - Joe Lesage had suggested the same thing last winter and I have done it a few times so will practice more come winter. Have a great week and thanks again! Cheers!
I like them as been discussed they will grow with speed i would add one thing that is to safety wire the latches and trim the extra chain to 2 or 3 links and tie wire them to zip ties but in the cold with roots and rocks i would use wire but you have a guy in your tool box and that is better than most manuals and internet advice have fun
LOL. Good morning and thanks for the great advice Dale. Yup, already done both of those things - you and Guy were in the toolbox I think. LOL. Cheers and thanks again - all the best!
Nice job GP, I bet that hill will be less of an issue this winter. Cheers
LOL Roy! Guy mentioned this week that he is going to miss having to throw a chain down to pull me up. LOL. I told him I wasn't going to miss it a bit. :)) Cheers!
Great video GP. In regards to the front chains. Check with a service tech at your dealership before buying them. I spoke to one down here, and he told me that rear chains are fine, but front chains are really rough on the steering hydraulics. I have seen others put them on, but I found that the rear chains work just fine for my little BX. Anyhow, great video, and I'm excited to see them work!
Good day MH! Thanks for the great information. I appreciate it. Mine said the same thing. Looking forward to the first run in the snow. Cheers and all the best!
Its much easier to jack up the rear end of your tractor to install your chains. Put it in neutral and just turn your wheels to roll the chains onto your wheels. Putting spacers on would be wise with chains. It will also make your footprint a little wider and your tractor will be a little more stable on inclines.
I agree with using a jack. Makes install much easier.
I used spacers on my B2650. I probably could get by without them but don’t want to risk tearing up my fenders. It seems like the chains never go on exactly the same and sometimes are closer to the fender than others. Spacers also add stability on side hills. Good luck with the chains. You’re definitely going to see a difference. Have a good one.
Good day and thanks for the great comment K. I agree. So I installed the spacers for the same reason. There is also hydraulic lines running under and around the right fender so I figured it was best not to take the chance. Cheers and thanks again!
That is wise to have those spacers. As Kcender said, 2 safety advantages: safer for chains use, safer on inclines.
Good stuff. I bought them and installed them Joe! Cheers and thanks again guys!
Very nice. And it you ever need to make some distressed wood, just drive over it with those knarly chains.
LOL Ron. Have a great week!
Cheers! Love your 'hard-working' videos, especially the drone shots. I always use CC (closed captioning), and cannot see the option of moving the CC from the bottom of the screen on UA-cam. Keep that in mind when placing words on the screen - just a little bit higher, please........ or maybe I am one of the few who use CC, then never mind......
Thanks very much. I turned it on but didn't realize it might interfere. If you click the little gear wheel on the bottom right of any video, you can turn it off. But for sure, I will try to keep that in mind. Thanks for letting me know. Cheers!
Now, when it snows, you can just laugh at it! 🤣🤣🤣
LOL. And hey, I won't have Guy smiling from the top of the hill with a set of chains to pull me up anymore. ( His joke this week he told me over coffee). Cheers Edward!
Hi GP! Those are impressive chains! I have a feeling you’ll be glad you got them. Looking forward to seeing how they perform in up coming videos! BTW, I liked the transition from your computer to the next scene. Nice touch! Cheers!
LOL. Thanks DIY. learning new tricks every once in a while. LOL. Cheers and all the best!
Nice didn't know they made them for tractor wheels that big
I have an M9540 and I bought a set for my rear wheels about 7 years ago.... my tractors heavy enough that I've never needed them, but I do have them.
Such great video thanks! Seems like mower decks won’t work with tire spacers.
I just use a few zip ties to hold the excess dead end chain
Good day GP your going to love your chains at the mine I work at there a ramp to go underground it’s a 17 degree slope there hot air coming out and cooled air meet up we use a cat loader nice machine the salesman for cat said we don’t need chains on it but in reality the wait of the machine and the slope was too much for the traction control and Truss me when I say it’s scary sliding down and a vehicle coming up have a great week
Hey thanks Denis! Sounds very scary indeed. I think we'll see soon how well the chains work out. Thanks again - have a great week!
Thanks! Have you heard about Pewag Chains. They make a Square Link Ladder Double Space chain that is supposed to top notch. Maybe you could review a Pewag chain?
If you go with chains on the front, go easy. I tend to not run 4 wheel drive if I can, it just helps to give me steerage.
Thanks for the great advice. Several other mentioned the similar suggestion. I appreciate the great advice and will be mindful for sure. Have a great week!
Here is one thing to consider. If you run a front blower and rear blade, when you raise the blower off the ground it hangs way out there and acts like a heavy cantilever and takes a lot of weight off the rear tires, causing them to lose traction in many cases. However, it increases the weight on the front tires. So most times when you use the rear blade you will need to be in 4WD and the front tires will be doing most of the work. If it is icy you will need chains on the front to maintain traction.
Did you drive the tractor with the chains on? That style rides very rough, because of the chains that connect the cross links. The one link stands straight up and down creating the rough ride. I had a set for the L4240 and returned them because of the rough ride, I could not go over 7mph and they did not help with traction.
Good morning Roger. Yes, I did and it is a rough ride for sure. I appreciate the insights my friend and I guess I will see how the traction is over the winter. A lot of subscribers had suggested the V hook , so I will see how it goes. Hopefully it will do the job for me. What type of chain do you use now? Cheers and thanks !
Zip tie extra links to chain on side of tire
I hope those chains scare off the snow for a while longer.
In addition to using chains, try adding more weight on the back of your tractor. You lose traction in your rear tires because you added the weight of the snow blower on the front of your tractor. I keep my 400lb tiller on the back of my tractor when I'm plowing snow.
Good morning and thanks Kou! That's a great suggestion. I have learned that weight is really important. Thanks again and all the best!
I have a front snowblower on my B2650 and a very hilly property but I was fine last winter with just the box blade on the back because of chains and liquid filled tires. So that is another way to get weight on the back and the box blade is handy sometimes to scale up slush or powder before it freezes.
Found yourself a weight lifting class without membership fees. Lol. The snow I get in Oregon is nowhere near what snow you get. My snow (if the state gets any) is usually wet and is easy to blade off without chains in town and below 2,000 ft (rough estimate). If this idea would work for you. Try using the boxscraper going in reverse to push a majority of snow out of the drive before snow blowing.
Good morning Andrew. LOL. I am going to need spinach soon, I think. Appreciate the idea - thanks. Have a good week and thanks for watching , too!
You make the installation look so easy, unfortunately my new tractor has solid rims so I can't use your trick with the rope.
Instead of passing the rope through the wheel, simply make a long loop of rope with each end attached to either side of the chain as it sits on the ground. Pass the loop of the rope over the lugs of the tire, well up from the ground and then move the tractor forward. The chain will be dragged onto the tire as you move forward.
@@keithmacgregor4841 Thanks Keith, what you suggested is what I've been thinking about doing..... I probably read something to that affect about 7 years ago on TractorByNet, but we haven't had enough snow yet this year to try it out. I've used GP's method on my larger tractor and it works very well.
I don't know how you did it without chains to this point. I have a B2301 with turf tires. With my chains it goes pretty well anywhere her in Vermont.
Morning Doug. I think I kind of have to chock it up to being a newbie. Guy has never needed tire chains for 15 years up here so I figured I wouldn't need them either. But I have learned that his machine is a lot heavier and bigger than mine. I don't get stuck often but the few times I do is frustrating (because I cannot get out.LOL) Knowing what I know now, I definitely should have bought them from the start. Thanks and all the best in Vermont! Beautiful countrysides there!
Excellent video and most timely; thank you. I live in North Bay and, for my JD 1025r, I too need to purchase chains as I will begin plowing our 600' driveway this winter. What criteria did you use to determine that the H Pattern V Bar was most suitable for you? I haven't a clue as to what type of tire chain the I need.
Good day Peter and thanks for the question. I had a lot of good advice from many subscribers (the subscribers on this channel are pretty awesome - I am very fortunate) in the comments throughout last winter. I learned that with R4 tires, a regular pattern chain may often fall in between the treads on the tire so many advised to get either a Diamond Pattern or H pattern design - this way they will stay on top of the treads all the time. The V hook or studded chains were advised as well to help dig into the ice. I chose the V hook because they appeared more aggressive and we get alot of snow and ice conditions here, so I figured if I was going to buy them, I wanted to make sure I would get the traction I was hoping for.- especially with those tow big hills on my driveway. However, I have noticed that these V hooks offer a very rough ride when on bare ground, but I am expecting that once I get the snow, it shouldn't be as rough a ride. We'll see in the coming months. Thanks again and hope this helped. Cheers!
Thank you. My driveway, although not as long as yours, has similar characteristics (small hills, lots of snow and, at certain times of the year ice, particularly early and late season), so the chain style and pattern may be quite suitable for me. Again, thank you for the timely video, your response and a "local" chain source. Good luck this winter.
Hi GP. You mentioned potentially adding chains to the front later if necessary. In a past video you mentioned that the 4 wheel drive cannot be used with chains. Have you found other information stating differently. I might need some of those chains this winter. If so I will have to look at that company, they seem to have the customer in mind and Canadian on top of that.
Good evening Alain. A great question. Many debates and differing opinions on this from so many folks. I will be using them - 2 wheel or 4 wheel drive - as needed and will also followup further with the dealer. You may want to speak with yours directly before you purchase them - I think it would be helpful for you too. Thanks and all the best!
Good morning Alain. After getting through my comments, a number of subscribers have offered information regarding why we shouldn't put chains on the front and use 4WD - when you have time perhaps take a look through all the comments - they can explain it better than I. Hope this helps. Cheers!
It makes sense now. Good advise from people with experience.
Hey GP, at 7:59 mins into your video, check out the open space on your tire not covered by chain. Note, don't worry and it isn't significant. But I wonder if the extra chain should be crossed over and connected via a quick link? It might maintain the overall chain pattern that you have across the rest of the tire.
I was rewatching your video since I am getting ready to install my chains. I know I need to address one tire to ensure I get a full consistent chain pattern around the full circumference.
Good morning and thanks Ron. I will take a look at both of them. I do notice sometimes I can feel that spot as the wheel turns. Perhaps i need to adjust as you have suggested. Thanks again! I really appreciate it. Cheers and good luck with yours!
G P on my old tracyor it had chains a pain to put them on after years finaly got them without any skined knuckles the B X we have now is four wheel drive have not any truble in snow yet if do wwill look for some
Thank You
God Bless
PaK
Good stuff. Thanks Peter! I think these should do the trick for me and we'll soon find out. LOL. Cheers!
Chains check, now work on the cab! LOL cheers
LOL! I think the day I get a cab model, I won't ever come out of it. Cheers Tom!
I sure they will come in handy this snow season. They sure do look like nice chains.
By the way how is Guy doing?
Good evening Rick - thanks for asking. He is getting better so hope to see him out soon. I'll let him know you asked. Have a great week and thanks again!
Gord, Did you look at the "double duty regular link"? If so, why did you pick the H-Pattern? Will take delivery on a B2601 with 12x16.5 R4 Industrial tires in Jan. and the Kubota dealer (southern Ontario) quoted me Walco 7/32, 2 link spacing chains. I couldn't find my tire size on the Canadian Chains web site. I called twice to discuss with them and left messages with no response.
Thanks,
Brent
User
Good morning Brent! I did. In my case I only need chains for the rough part of the winter - I don't need any help the rest of the year. So, based on all the feedback and suggestions from subscribers, I looked at all the different patterns I could find and I figured I wanted to make sure I got a very aggressive pattern to make sure I would get maximum traction. I understand that the double duty has twice the number of chinas (If I remember correctly) but was not sure if I would still have chains falling in-between the tire treads and also, the v- hook (as well as a couple other types) provided a chain that had a stud or hook to dig in. The H pattern was to ensure that the chains didn't fall between the treads. My chain update video will go live at 9:00 am this morning. It may be possible that I could have been fine with a double duty or other type chain, but with the hills on the driveway and the amount of ice etc we get up here, I didn't;t want to spend the money to find I was not able to get the traction I needed. First time ever having chains so I figured better to be safe than wish I had bought something else. Hope that helps. I have never used chains before so can't really offer an opinion to help you out. re: Canadian chains. I never spoke to them on the phone but emailed them a few times and got an answer on email within a day or so each time. Good luck and hey, Congrats on the new tractor!! All the best!
I was also wondering if you have any liquid ballast in the rear tires. Thanks
I do Bob. Rim Guard ( Beet juice). Cheers!
Hi GP, I live in Ontario also, being hit by freezing rain this weekend, my gravel driveway is an ice rink. I am thinking of getting chains front and back. my question: do you know if they sell spacers for the B2601 front wheel? there doesn't seem to be enough space for chains on the front wheel as is. tx Dan
Hey good morning Dan! Nice to meet another Ontarian. I do not believe you can get spacers for the front and I agree with you - when I turn my wheels, there is no room for chains to be attached, IMO. I was also told by the dealer that I should not run chains on both the back and front tires on the B series. So you may wish to ask your dealer about that first (just a suggestion). However, I just started using my rear chains with the 4WD engaged on the ice and snow from the last storm and wow, what a difference. Those videos will be out this week at some point. Hopefully they will give some further input to help you make your decisions. Good luck and be safe out there!
@@GPOutdoors Thanks Gp, your Reply is very helpful, i Greatly appreciate it! Tape food care.
One thing I forgot too mention in my comment is there is some aftermarket company’s that make different wheel spacer kits for tractors . If you can’t get them from your dealer there is other options 👍
Wheel adapter USA on the web . For any one that is looking . Good stuff / Coupers products also nice products . Lots of options
Gord, why do you mention that you did not want to put chains on your front tires? Are you worried that there is too much grip and no slip in the wheels when required? Are you worried of a differential problem down the road?
Hi Sean, yes and yes. My dealer, as well as others recommended not to put chains on the front - only the back. Many subscribers have suggested it is ok to do all four. But I am not sure they have small, compact tractors. Also, in my case, the sub-frame for the front mount blower would be in the way when i turn the wheels sharply. And there were also discussions around possibly issues with the differential and the overall circumference ratios between the rear and front tires. I decided to follow the dealer's advice ( since they are holding the warranty). :)) But we sure had some great and plentiful debates about it in the comments of many videos back then. Take care!
@@GPOutdoors Thanks for your insight. and great videos too. Keep up the great work.
I can attest that even with chains on all four tires you will still have slippage so no risk of damage. I have a JD CUT similar in size to Gordon's Kubota and JD even sold factory wheel spacers for the front tires for the express purpose of using tire chains. In the parts book it even lists "for tire chains". Without them the chain comes dangerously close to the tie rod ends. I've used chains on all four tires for going on 8 years now and it's still easy to make the front tires lose traction in the snow. :-) Now here's the strange part... front chains are okay but they warn against putting fluid in the front tires. Dealer even said it would void the warranty. Weird, eh?
I would still recommend wheel spacers since the chains won't come off during winter and you never know when you are going to pickup a stick and it starts wrapping around.
That's great advice Beefie. I did. I was thinking the same thing, plus I could still hear scraping under there. Thanks again! Cheers!
Hey go just curious as to why you chose the h pattern and not the standard chain. Thanks bob mccarey
Good morning Bob. Great question. Several subscribers advised not to get regular pattern because the chain will have a tendency to fall in between the treads on the R4 tires, reducing the amount of chain riding over the treads, and so recommended I go with either a diamond pattern or H pattern. Both of those pattern's designs keeps the chains on top of the treads. It made sense to me. We'll see how they work soon, I think. Rough ride on bare ground, I noticed but hopefully it will be smoother in the snow. Cheers and all the best!
@@GPOutdoors I agree with you about the 'H' and diamond patterned chains staying on top of the tread for better grippage. Every set I own is the standard style. My older brother doubled the number cross chains to one of his sets for a Massey Harris 44 with 14.9 x 38 rears. Then he welded horse shoes across every other pair of cross chains and wanting more grippage bent and welded 5/8 or 3/4" rebar on outer surface of the horse shoes. That big old beast will slog through muddy trenches halfway to the knees of a tall man. Snow poses no problem at all. Being a tricycle tractor steering is with the brakes in heavy mud or snow. The chains now weigh approximately 200 to 250 pounds each, conservatively.
If you do need more help putting on tire chains, just ask any Canadian truck driver you happen to know.
Hi Gp I found the same thing websites are not user friendly. I emailed a few- no response. Did you have to cut the excess links off? Thanks for your videos. I will check this company out How do you find time to answer all? Regards
Good evening Lee! Thanks for letting me know. I never tried to call them. I just emailed my questions and got a reasonable response within a day or two. I guess they really are an "on-line" company. LOL. Takes a lot of time for sure, but really appreciate your comments and that you watch so I try my best to answer. Plus, it's nice to have some great on-line friends. :)) Cheers and enjoy your week Lee!
Hi GP!
May I ask you something?
Do you use water or beetjuice as an ballast in your tire?
If so, what is your experience in the winter?nbetter grip or to much weight?
Greetings
Good morning! They are filled with Rim Guard ( beet Juice0. Good to -35 degrees celsius I believe. Very important to fill the tires for weight. Happy I did. Well worth the money for sure. Very important for winter but also in general for doing work all the time. Hope that helps - Cheers!
GP Outdoors jap it do! Thx man
how much did you pay for these chains in 2019?
I think it was around $600 CDN. I have since purchased new Aquiline chains ( there is an updated video on my channel) and they were about the same but a much smoother ride.
@@GPOutdoors the aqualine for my size tire (15-19.5) is $9xx USD at the moment. I will most likely go with that one.
GP I just finalized an order for a new B2650 with a B2782 snowblower and a B2763 front blade and I opted for the wheel spacers based on the dealers recommendation. So is your dealers kabota mechanic still against chains? And how will his advice effect how you use them.... questions you can address in the upcoming video you mentioned.
Good evening and congratulations Tracey! You must be really excited and counting the days until it arrives. Re: The spacers. Yup, I ended up needing them and installed them - video will be out on Thursday. When you have a few minutes, look through the other comments on this video - a couple others also said their dealers advised not to put chains on the front and one other Dealer also suggested not to use 4WD like mine did- apparently there is also a issue to do with clearance in the front tires if you try to use chains according to a couple of the subscribers above. I will use 2WD generally, as I do now and especially on dry or more solid surfaces but I think ( just my thoughts) that if I am on surfaces ( snow , ice etc) that allow for wheel split, then I would like to think that $WD should be ok but I decided tonight I will discuss in more detail with my dealer again. Congrats again on the new tractor! Please let me know how it goes! Cheers!
@@GPOutdoors ... A large reason I decided to get the B2650 with a snowblower is based on watching your videos. I turned 60 this year and I decided I was ready for a second/smaller tractor.... one with a heated cab. It has been taking me at least 6 hours with my M9540 ROPS to clear the snow at my place, and at my age I figure that I deserve to be comfortable when I'm out working in the weather.... I still love my M9540, but I'm looking forward to a heated cab and hydraulics for use in the Winter when the winds are howling and the snow is blowing sideways.
I look forward to watching your next video.
You do deserve it Tracy! That's great. I am sure you will really enjoy being in that heated cab. Cheers!
Not that you could afford them, but check out mattracks. That's what you really need. 🤔🤔🤔
LOL Tom! Now that would make for some great videos. And you're right - no chance of getting those. $$$ Cheers my friend!
@@GPOutdoors I wouldn't exactly say no chance. I looked at them sometime ago to put on my jeep liberty. Cost about $35,000 for all four corners. But hey, you ever play the lotto? You play it to a certain extent daily. It's called life. 🤔🤔🤔
Tom, you are far too wise and poetic. LOL. You must be at least in your 50"s.. Too funny. (But true, I have to admit). Be well and talk again soon. Cheers!
@@GPOutdoors nice thoughts of the 50's. I'm actually 62. But if you do it mathematically, I'd be 63. I completed my 62 birth anniversary, then started on my 63 year. Think about that. 🤔🤔🤔
i was told to never use chains on my 4 wheeel drive
Good morning John. Me too. The dealer suggested that I try to keep it in 2WD with the chains on for the most part. So I plan on doing that where possible. I will talk with them more, but from what I gather, unless I am on a surface that allows for the wheels to slip easily, it will cause strain (?) on the front wheels in 4WD. And many have advised that if I do use 4WD, then not to turn sharply. Thanks for the question. Cheers!
I was told by my dealer that I wouldn't need chains with a 4WD tractor.... HAH! Without chains I can barely pull out of the garage when it is icy. I need chains on all four tires because with the front snow blower raised off the ground it lightens the rear end enough that the rear tires spin even with chains. That's with fluid filled rear tires. Once the snow blower is lowered to the ground it's not a problem. I think the folks who say not to use chains on all four are thinking it will cause drive train binding because the tires won't slip. Well, chains or no chains the tires still have no problem slipping a bit in the snow and ice. :-)
Hello. I live in Norway. There is a lot of snow here. I've been putting chains on tractors for 35 years. You put chains on incorrectly. The opening of the lock should point forward. You're doing it wrong.
Good evening and thanks so very much! I didn't know but thanks again for helping me. I really appreciate it. Cheers and all the best to you!