I just got one and I absolutely love it. I use headphones at night so as not to annoy my family and neighbors and during the day I use it with a Cube amp which sounds amazing, better than the Marshall I just sold, and infinitely more versatile. I can dial in high gain settings with much more clarity and complex harmonic overtones than with the Marshall. The amp models are terrific. Are they exactly like the real thing? For me, that's not important. They are great in and of themselves and in some ways better. I've never subscribed to tube snobbery so I'm quite thrilled with this product and recommend the GT-1 wholeheartedly. I've been a Boss fan since I began playing guitar in the mid 80s. They are one of the few companies that just get better.
hi, what pre amp are you using in your Cube amp? I have a roland micro cube and planning to get a GT1 but im not sure how itll work. cause the GT1 has preamps, and also my amp. thank you!
I want to get my first guitar, and recently discovered the existence of multi-effect amp modelling pedals. There are so few demos of this thing and big channels like Andertons hardly talk about such things. It's almost like they don't want modelling amps to get 'too popular'. Thanks for the demo.
Great video - especially due to (1) not talking, & (2) the simple one-two lines of succinct info about each tone demonstrated. Hence leaving an appreciative comment accordingly. Cheers.
I think they sound very good, whether you crank the gain on the amp some or if use the built-in virtual boost, overdrive, distortion and fuzz pedals on a clean channel.
Yes, I would say the Boss GT-1 is very good at being responsive to the guitar volume. I saw you posted this and I wanted to say yes but I wanted to verify before answering. I just did some testing on the default patches and they cleaned up very realistically.
@@miguelrico4338 Totally understand being torn. While I like all three pedals, I really enjoy the Boss GT-1. I love the fact that I can run it on an AC adapter or use it with AA batteries, thus making it very portable. I love the fact that the boss has essentially a master volume control on the front panel, making it easy to turn up or down. I like the Boss pedal has a CTL1 button that allows me to turn on or off multiple effects in a single patch and I also like that the Boss has the ability to connect an addition foot switch that would give you two more CTL buttons, so you could program effect or amps changes using CTRL2 & 3. The Looper in the Boos GT-1 is easy to use. You can start a loop on one patch, change patch and add to the loop, therefor having a loop with different sounds and texture. The Zoom G3n can have up to 7 effects at once but for each patch, one of the effects is taken up if you want a Looper on that patch...forgive me if I'm remembering incorrectly but I don't you can switch patches after starting a loop on the Zoom G3n, since the looper is assigned to that patch. Again, all three are great pedals, the just have small nuances between them and just depending on what you want or like, that nuance can be a pro or a con. If there is anyway I can help, just let me know.
@@Tone-Quest One last question. What about sound quality in your opinion? Are they both about the same so it just comes down to usability or does one sound better to you?
@@miguelrico4338 I would say the quality of both are very good. I've used both in creating little demo songs and I've been very happy with both of them. I'm a big fan of Zoom products but I have to say I've been very happy and impressed with the Boss GT-1.
Good stuff! Thank you. I thought I would ask here, just had a couple questions. I’ve been creating some patches, just got the unit last week. I’m trying to free up the CTL so I can use it as a stomp for a phaser. It comes right on, controlling the overdrive, and a little preamp icon appears right on the play screen. I’m trying to find a way to assign that overdrive somewhere else, as an effect, to free up the CTL to engage the phaser. Can’t seem to figure that out. So I just created/copied the patch with a phaser on all the time. So I guess kind of the same thing, I patch up, then patch back down. Just wondering if there was an easier way? And for another patch, I’d like to hit the CTL and have it turn off the preamp OD/DS, at the same time engaging the crybaby, expression pedal. And of course stomping again to engage the overdrive, and disengage the wah! Thank you!!! I saw a tutorial, but the guy didn’t really show how he did it.
As you well know, the BOSS GT-1 only has one control switch (CTL1) but you can plug in an external switch that give you up to two more control switches (CTL2 and CTL3). Not sure it would answer to all your questions but I think it would definitely give you more flexibility in your patches. I did a video on external foot switches you might find helpful. ua-cam.com/video/dSZQMxkBXyg/v-deo.html
The guitar frequency range is 80 Hz to 1200 Hz and a violin frequency range is 196 Hz to 659.3 Hz. So I would think any guitar multi-effects pedal would be adequate. Since you want a natural sound I would assume you probably wouldn’t use any amp sims, cab sims, or weird effects...so maybe just some light chorusing, delay or possibly reverb. So I guess the deciding factors might be budget and if you want it for playing live. For playing live, it might be nice to have an effects pedal you could turn certain effects off and on. So some possible contenders that won’t break the bank would be: Valeton GP-100, NUX MG-300, Boss GT-1, Flamma FX100, Zoom G1X Four or the Mooer GE150.
@Hank Hill I haven't personally run it that way yet but the GT-1 has settings on it for using it with an amp (I'll list them below), so I think it would work fine. Maybe I'll give that a shot when I get home (currently out of town). JC-120 - Choose this if connected to the guitar input of a Roland JC-120 guitar amp. SMALL AMP Choose this if connected to a small guitar amp. COMBO AMP - Choose this if connected to the guitar input of a combo-type guitar amp (i.e., a single unit that contains the amp and speaker) other than the JC-120. For some types of guitar amps, the “JC-120” setting might produce better results. STACK AMP - Choose this if connected to the guitar input of a stack-type guitar amp (i.e., one in which the amp and speaker are separate units). JC-120 RETURN Choose this if connected to the RETURN jack of the JC-120. COMBO RETURN Choose this if connected to the RETURN jack of a combo-type guitar amp. STACK RETURN - Choose this if connected to the RETURN jack of a stack-type guitar amp. You should also choose “STACK RETURN” if you’re using a guitar power amp together with a speaker cabinet. LINE/PHONES - Choose this if you’re using headphones, or if the GT-1 is connected to monitor speakers, mixer, or digital recorder.
Is it just me or did all the crunch tones sound like ass (perhaps with the exception of no. 27)? Unfortunate because I've been looking into this one. Would be lovely to ditch the pedal boards and amps and just go straight into the PA with a little setup like this.
Yeah, you really gotta dial them in. I’m not sure why they come sounding so strange. Like the 5150, if you just play it as it is, it sounds nothing like the amp. I noticed he blurred out a little section there for the 5150, sound a little better here. But you can definitely tweak them all and get great sounds. This is my first time away from my pedal board, all analog. But it sounds better than I thought, got some gnarly sounds coming out of that vintage rectifier, and then can play old school stuff (Van Halen mostly) with that 1959-1, or that 5150. The effects are gnarly, I’ve never really had anything like this. And the unit is so quiet. It’s a trip. I could have it cranked up, volume wide-open, and no noise at all. But also, rolling the volume knob back it’s very realistic, just like a regular analog set up. And it will get feedback if wanted also. So I’m trying to capture that more analog sound when recording. My first attempt, when I listened in my car the next day, it was a little too over driven-maybe like a modeling amp, or plug-in. Which I was kind of looking for, just getting some gnarly heavier modern metal tones. Updating my sound, ha ha. So I just realized I’m gonna have to dial it back differently of course while recording, or playing live. You know how it is, make it a little more mid to high end to cut through, more than I like to do when just chugging at home. 🤘🏻🇺🇸🎸
Mooer 150 does not run on batteries, Boss support and software seems greater, and I heard tjat usb recording is better with Boss. I was thinking of.going Mooer but just the batterie thing and boss build quality makes me.tend to the gt1. Still evaluating...
Proof that you don’t need to spend a fortune to get a good tone. I use a Boss GT-100 processor and I’m extremely happy with it.
I just got one and I absolutely love it. I use headphones at night so as not to annoy my family and neighbors and during the day I use it with a Cube amp which sounds amazing, better than the Marshall I just sold, and infinitely more versatile. I can dial in high gain settings with much more clarity and complex harmonic overtones than with the Marshall. The amp models are terrific. Are they exactly like the real thing? For me, that's not important. They are great in and of themselves and in some ways better. I've never subscribed to tube snobbery so I'm quite thrilled with this product and recommend the GT-1 wholeheartedly. I've been a Boss fan since I began playing guitar in the mid 80s. They are one of the few companies that just get better.
Great feedback, much appreciated. Good luck writing great music with your Boss GT-1. 👍🏻
@@Tone-Quest Thank you! Keep rockin'!
hi, what pre amp are you using in your Cube amp? I have a roland micro cube and planning to get a GT1 but im not sure how itll work. cause the GT1 has preamps, and also my amp. thank you!
I want to get my first guitar, and recently discovered the existence of multi-effect amp modelling pedals. There are so few demos of this thing and big channels like Andertons hardly talk about such things. It's almost like they don't want modelling amps to get 'too popular'. Thanks for the demo.
Anonymous Totally understood, agree and my pleasure to help out a little.
This is the video I was looking for. Thank you!
Bless you for the nice words. Totally my pleasure. 👍🏻
The Natural Clean and Match drive are my favourite amp sims
Thank you mate. This is the video I've been looking for!
You are very welcome. Glad it helped out a little.
It retains good harmonic information, so affordable and workable.
26 different options for distortion
Great video - especially due to (1) not talking, & (2) the simple one-two lines of succinct info about each tone demonstrated. Hence leaving an appreciative comment accordingly. Cheers.
Thank you, much appreciated.
Great video. Explains it all
Nice video man! Congrats!!
perfect video. thanks.
My pleasure 😀
Sounds better than the hotone ravo I had!
Awesome thanks
My pleasure
Very nice
So, are some of the amps emulating tube amps? Thx
Anyone know if it’s possible to add more amps to it, other than the ones already existing?
andrei260902 Not that I know of. I guess the only way would be a firmware update from Boss.
The clean amps sound extra sweet. How do they sound with a little distortion (when compared to a dirty amp).
I think they sound very good, whether you crank the gain on the amp some or if use the built-in virtual boost, overdrive, distortion and fuzz pedals on a clean channel.
@@Tone-Quest Great, thanks for the reply.
If you turn down the volume on the guitar do the amp models clean up? Mean less distortion based on the volume level on the guitar.
Yes, I would say the Boss GT-1 is very good at being responsive to the guitar volume. I saw you posted this and I wanted to say yes but I wanted to verify before answering. I just did some testing on the default patches and they cleaned up very realistically.
@@Tone-Quest Thank you so much for testing this! Man I'm so torn between this or the zoom G3N or even the G1X Four
@@miguelrico4338 Totally understand being torn. While I like all three pedals, I really enjoy the Boss GT-1. I love the fact that I can run it on an AC adapter or use it with AA batteries, thus making it very portable. I love the fact that the boss has essentially a master volume control on the front panel, making it easy to turn up or down. I like the Boss pedal has a CTL1 button that allows me to turn on or off multiple effects in a single patch and I also like that the Boss has the ability to connect an addition foot switch that would give you two more CTL buttons, so you could program effect or amps changes using CTRL2 & 3. The Looper in the Boos GT-1 is easy to use. You can start a loop on one patch, change patch and add to the loop, therefor having a loop with different sounds and texture. The Zoom G3n can have up to 7 effects at once but for each patch, one of the effects is taken up if you want a Looper on that patch...forgive me if I'm remembering incorrectly but I don't you can switch patches after starting a loop on the Zoom G3n, since the looper is assigned to that patch. Again, all three are great pedals, the just have small nuances between them and just depending on what you want or like, that nuance can be a pro or a con. If there is anyway I can help, just let me know.
@@Tone-Quest One last question. What about sound quality in your opinion? Are they both about the same so it just comes down to usability or does one sound better to you?
@@miguelrico4338 I would say the quality of both are very good. I've used both in creating little demo songs and I've been very happy with both of them. I'm a big fan of Zoom products but I have to say I've been very happy and impressed with the Boss GT-1.
Good stuff! Thank you. I thought I would ask here, just had a couple questions. I’ve been creating some patches, just got the unit last week.
I’m trying to free up the CTL so I can use it as a stomp for a phaser. It comes right on, controlling the overdrive, and a little preamp icon appears right on the play screen.
I’m trying to find a way to assign that overdrive somewhere else, as an effect, to free up the CTL to engage the phaser. Can’t seem to figure that out.
So I just created/copied the patch with a phaser on all the time. So I guess kind of the same thing, I patch up, then patch back down. Just wondering if there was an easier way?
And for another patch, I’d like to hit the CTL and have it turn off the preamp OD/DS, at the same time engaging the crybaby, expression pedal. And of course stomping again to engage the overdrive, and disengage the wah!
Thank you!!!
I saw a tutorial, but the guy didn’t really show how he did it.
As you well know, the BOSS GT-1 only has one control switch (CTL1) but you can plug in an external switch that give you up to two more control switches (CTL2 and CTL3). Not sure it would answer to all your questions but I think it would definitely give you more flexibility in your patches.
I did a video on external foot switches you might find helpful.
ua-cam.com/video/dSZQMxkBXyg/v-deo.html
Did you figure it out.
Are these patches available in a liveset somewhere?
Please which is better for an electric violin for a natural sound .
The guitar frequency range is 80 Hz to 1200 Hz and a violin frequency range is 196 Hz to 659.3 Hz. So I would think any guitar multi-effects pedal would be adequate. Since you want a natural sound I would assume you probably wouldn’t use any amp sims, cab sims, or weird effects...so maybe just some light chorusing, delay or possibly reverb. So I guess the deciding factors might be budget and if you want it for playing live.
For playing live, it might be nice to have an effects pedal you could turn certain effects off and on. So some possible contenders that won’t break the bank would be: Valeton GP-100, NUX MG-300, Boss GT-1, Flamma FX100, Zoom G1X Four or the Mooer GE150.
I broke your 666th like. It was worth it.
why connected to a computer sounds very bad, and on the amplifier the other way around ?????
I connect it to the computer to show how it sounds if you use it to record directly.
@Hank Hill I haven't personally run it that way yet but the GT-1 has settings on it for using it with an amp (I'll list them below), so I think it would work fine. Maybe I'll give that a shot when I get home (currently out of town).
JC-120 - Choose this if connected to the guitar input of a Roland JC-120 guitar amp. SMALL AMP Choose this if connected to a small guitar amp.
COMBO AMP - Choose this if connected to the guitar input of a combo-type guitar amp (i.e., a single unit that contains the amp and speaker) other than the JC-120. For some types of guitar amps, the “JC-120” setting might produce better results.
STACK AMP - Choose this if connected to the guitar input of a stack-type guitar amp (i.e., one in which the amp and speaker are separate units). JC-120 RETURN Choose this if connected to the RETURN jack of the JC-120.
COMBO RETURN Choose this if connected to the RETURN jack of a combo-type guitar amp.
STACK RETURN - Choose this if connected to the RETURN jack of a stack-type guitar amp. You should also choose “STACK RETURN” if you’re using a guitar power amp together with a speaker cabinet.
LINE/PHONES - Choose this if you’re using headphones, or if the GT-1 is connected to monitor speakers, mixer, or digital recorder.
Hank Hill You are very welcome, totally my pleasure.
What setting if your running into a frfr cab
can you show how to connect gt1 to pc?
Is it just me or did all the crunch tones sound like ass (perhaps with the exception of no. 27)?
Unfortunate because I've been looking into this one. Would be lovely to ditch the pedal boards and amps and just go straight into the PA with a little setup like this.
Yeah, you really gotta dial them in. I’m not sure why they come sounding so strange. Like the 5150, if you just play it as it is, it sounds nothing like the amp.
I noticed he blurred out a little section there for the 5150, sound a little better here.
But you can definitely tweak them all and get great sounds. This is my first time away from my pedal board, all analog.
But it sounds better than I thought, got some gnarly sounds coming out of that vintage rectifier, and then can play old school stuff (Van Halen mostly) with that 1959-1, or that 5150. The effects are gnarly, I’ve never really had anything like this. And the unit is so quiet. It’s a trip. I could have it cranked up, volume wide-open, and no noise at all. But also, rolling the volume knob back it’s very realistic, just like a regular analog set up. And it will get feedback if wanted also.
So I’m trying to capture that more analog sound when recording. My first attempt, when I listened in my car the next day, it was a little too over driven-maybe like a modeling amp, or plug-in. Which I was kind of looking for, just getting some gnarly heavier modern metal tones. Updating my sound, ha ha.
So I just realized I’m gonna have to dial it back differently of course while recording, or playing live. You know how it is, make it a little more mid to high end to cut through, more than I like to do when just chugging at home. 🤘🏻🇺🇸🎸
@@heyjarrod How did your tone hunt turn out.
This or Mooer ge150?
vonholland64 I think I would lean toward the Mooer GE150
Chris Benton thanks Chris
Mooer 150 does not run on batteries, Boss support and software seems greater, and I heard tjat usb recording is better with Boss. I was thinking of.going Mooer but just the batterie thing and boss build quality makes me.tend to the gt1. Still evaluating...
@@jello-tarzan You can run either on a power bank into the DC-IN via an USB step up cable ($2 from eBay or Ali)
Can you plug this into the Peamp jack on the rear of a Katana 50 mk2?
Yes, this should totally work great into the “Power Amp In” on the Katana MK2
no cab??
Yes, the cab used on each patch is the default “origin” cab for each amp.
@@Tone-Quest so you can't change the cab??
@@saffwannz You can change it but only to other cabs that are pre-loaded. You can’t import any impulse responses though.
@@Tone-Quest thanks for the information...
all sounds the same...just different levels of gain and mostly mud