Sika Self-Leveling Sealant (Gray 29 oz): geni.us/2AGdCmG Large Caulk Gun (29 oz): geni.us/pJaKTw6 Backer Rod (5/8" x 20'): geni.us/GGBgVZo Wire Brushes: geni.us/VuizGK Tools Every Weekend Warrior Needs Makita Cordless Drill Combo Kit: geni.us/t7dIA Dewalt Drill Bit Set: geni.us/oFlSl Dewalt Screwdriver Bit Set: geni.us/VDcr Craftsman Screwdriver Set: geni.us/jXqFI Eklind Allen Wrench Set: geni.us/7XfvO Pliers (4-Piece Set): geni.us/RIdx Milwaukee Fastback Utility Knife: geni.us/MlyiLk Stanley Tape Measure: geni.us/bUfD1R Studbuddy Stud Finder: geni.us/RySCuVw Johnson Torpedo Level: geni.us/wiLcDY Stanley Hammer: geni.us/bPDk8Wo Buck Bros Wood Chisel Set: geni.us/vk3cpTW Klein Voltage Tester: geni.us/h9Hl Klein Outlet Tester: geni.us/kdBAJ Milwaukee Wire Strippers: geni.us/5zuLAbC Little Giant Ladder: geni.us/fmlmTk DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Thank you so much for this video. It's the only one on UA-cam that clearly demonstrates how to fix this issue. I am trying to prep my home for sale and the way they build homes today, (cutting corners) caused ground settlement way too fast. I thought I was going to have to do lots of cement mixing. This method is so much easier.
Holy hell. I've been trying to gather this type of info for months to purchase the right material and then execute the job. Thank you so much for this video. You're extremely thorough and advised us how much material you used for the job you posted. Thank you again. I always appreciate your content. Cheers!
AMAZING! I needed to replace the old ratty filler in the gap in front of my garage door. Thank you, Scott, for posting such a clear and simple step-by-step video. Your tips on filling the gaps with sand and braiding the backer rods for larger gaps were particularly helpful. I was able to complete the job in good time with no surprises. Looks great!
Just did 560 feet of driveway relief joints with sika flex self leveling on a 2 year old driveway (Had time to settle). Pressurewashed, let dry, sprayed roundup to kill potential weeds, Filled any cracks in joints with multipurpose sand, insert 1/4" backer rod snugly so it didn't float. Finally compressed air to clean before applying. Then proceeded to spend the whole week after work squeazing sika into the joints. Job took 6 29oz tubes. I had a solid 2 weeks with no rain which helped a ton. I had slope, but because the joints were 1/4" the surface tension kept the liquid from bleeding. Will report on material quality after a year.
A few tips from my results from 2 years ago - Sika self leveling - works great, the non self leveling sealant is garbage and does not stay adhered though, I used that on a couple sidewalk steps since self leveling wouldn't work and it ended up being worthless. I used very high quality sealant in the huge tubes (Novalink SL Self Leveling Sealant), bought a whole case and had to get 3-4 large tubes of Sika to finish my patio + driveway, I did all of the cracks. I used the Quickrete fine sand to fill all the cracks after I power washed, cleaned, dried out the cracks. That sand will fill all the holes easily, use a brush to get it down in there and then clean up as well. No need for backer rod.
You're keeping me busy. I've been staring at thes gaps and cracks for sometime. Between this video and the sidewalk gaps you've got my back. Thanks again.
I used a similar process on my concrete patio. The old wood joint material had rotted away over the years and the joints were looking awful. Cleaned out the joints, then used sand to fill the gaps. I used a little water to pull the sand down into the voids that had formed beyond the joints and under the concrete slabs. I brought the sand up to leave about a 2” deep open joint. I had to use some larger backer rod as some joints were 1”+. I used a tan filler, it looks better than the gray on my concrete. I used over a dozen tubes of filler and over a nearly a hundred foot of backer rod. It still looks great and has held up for two years now. One thing, if your backer rod isn’t snug the filler will find the gaps and drain down below the backer. This can waist a lot of material if not corrected. Also make sure any place the backers meet or cross joints that it’s pushed tightly together to eliminate gaps.
GREAT video!! I watch "A WHOLE LOT of DYI video's", and your format/style is one of the best I've viewed. No stupid background music; audio was good (I couldn't even hear bug's in background!) Your voice was clear, and instruction's were easy to understand; not just telling me a process, but explaining why. Once again, Thanks!
Thank you for breaking down the process to properly tackle this problem. My initial thought was to pop down to the Home depot and buy a sealant. Now my approach is quite different.
Recently had a slab put in the back that I filled with the same self-leveling adhesive (in the expansion joint). Your video inspired me to do that for my two-car garage also. The sand beforehand was brilliant. I'm totally doing that. Thanks for the well produced video too.
awesome video, camera work, and explanation of how to and specifically what supplies used, brands used, and dos and don'ts. glad you came along somehow as i have a crack job on my garage concrete that i wasn't sure how to do.. one damn good job on how to!!
Gotta learn alot of house maintenance on the fly and this is just like gold i uncovered without looking for it. Awesome know how every homeowner should learn.
Pro tip: Use fine silica sand to dust the sealant while it's still tacky. Blends with concrete color much better and avoids the sheen like appearance of the smooth caulk. I also prefer to tape the joint because it allows me to fill the joint to the very top and still get clean lines.
So true. There is another good YT who shows putting the sand or dirt on the drying caulk- it blends really well that way. You could also use a foam pool noodle cut in halfsies if you are on a budget. All in all this was a great video. I liked how he shared quantities of the product he used and explained and showed the steps in clear camera angles.
I recommend NOT going to the top and being level with the concrete - you will almost surely get tire marks if you drive over it. One line in my driveway has tire marks, the rest do not, I overfilled (to just about level with the concrete) that gap a bit.
Great video as I’ve done similar work. One thing I learned is make sure that backer rod is snug! Otherwise it floats to the top. Also, that stuff is super messy and a pain to clean up. Gloves are a good idea, and it will run like crazy if you set it down so have thick cardboard to put it in if you need to take a break. Finally, I’ve seen others use stone dust or sand to put on top of the wet caulking to blend the look. The caulk really sticks out aesthetically so something on top blends it in. This is especially true with colors. I smashed a red brick to dust and used that to help blend into a red colored stamped concrete patio. Overall great video!
If you spill or drip on the concrete just throw a hand full of sand on it and scrub/kick it around with your foot. It will pull it up, rubbing alcohol works good also especially if you get it on the siding or what not.
Thanks for this. I’m a widow now and I do have a spot that’s not very big doing this where my pool shed concrete stops and pool concrete begins is doing this.
I saw another UA-camr sprinkle on some silica sand as a top finish after the caulk crusted over a little. Then a leaf blower to get off any excess. Just a little extra finishing touch. Look great! Hard to believe how much sand swallowed up in that crack! I better get busy on mine before winter sets in. 😱
@@EverydayHomeRepairs sad thing is, if I did ALL of the joints and I have the same application rate, supplies would cost about $500! Might have to wait a little while. But thanks for the how to.
That’s the stuff I used and it worked well. One slab had lifted a bit too, so I ground down the lifted edge with a diamond concrete grinding wheel first.
Thanks bro! Yes will either dust with similar color sand while the sealant is curing. Or what I found from a basement crack repair video is to save some of the same colored debris I swept out and sweep it back over the concrete repair in that case. But the fine sand is a better idea. It's cheap too. Good job man! 👍
Great adea braiding tightly for a larger gap. For narrow gaps I have cut pieces from white packing foam that is the same material as the backer rod or pool noodle.
Great video. Just did this past weekend around my pool between coping and decking. Sika product is great, but highly recommend dusting with sand, as it has a sheen even when dry.
The Rapid-Set polyether works just as well as Sika, and actually stick better to concrete, granite, and sandstone. Been using this for years, especially for water-features. All of these have the same problem, in that they will not set inside an enclosed Gap or Space (for weeks to months), but work great on a single concrete line. Also, don't forget GatorDust and GatorSand. These polymer concrete products are used extensively in our area, to just fill simple joints, up to about 4-inches or less. Much easier and faster to do, if you are working for speed, especially patios, walkways, or similar semi-flat features. We use the Gator products to set boulders also, but the material is weaker than concrete, so cannot take the same stress or moving pressure.
Thank you so much for your excellent tutorial! I’m an old lady but I’m going to try to do this myself. My question is, should I remove the old sealant first and if so what’s the best way to get it out? Thanks again.
Thank you soooo much for your great instructions on this topic. I used a pool noodle cut to size and Vulkem 45SSL for my project as you suggested in another video and it’s perfect.
This self-levelling Sika product worked GREAT. We have a large patio/pool deck area and struggled with weed growth and fire ants (we're in Texas) and I filled over 50 feet with this product and am very, very happy! Next project is to move to the driveway and do it again. Thankfully our lot is pretty flat, so this Sika filler works great for us! Thanks for the tip!!!
I used that self leveling sealant and it only lasted a few years. It turned chalky grey, got hard and cracked. I replaced it with GE Silicone Seal. It's more expensive but after 5 years of winter snow and summer sun it's still there and still completely sealing the gap.
I did a search for the GE Silicone Seal you mentioned and just looks like standard window/bath caulk. Is there another name for the self leveling version of GE Silicone Sealant? I would imagine it would need to be self leveling for this type of application.
So you refer to the Northeast freeze and cold. We live in Texas and have gumbo soil. It shrinks and expands with rain and shrinks with no rain. Won't take years to damage but only months. One thing I also learned managing highrise buildings is that crickets can reach the top of a 56 story building. The favorite food of crickets is caulking. So hoping this sealant will be the better choice.
For wider gaps - can use foam pipe insulation. Can bridge various wide gaps since center of the pipe insulation is hollow and allows the shape of the insulation to vary.
thank you for this information. My garage has always let water inside. I have lost a few thing from this. But now I'm haveing it fixed. Thank you so much
That Sika seems to be really good stuff. I used it in the same area and over my expansion joints. They also make an asphalt version which is used where the concrete apron meets the asphalt driveway. It isn’t cheap but the finished product seems to be much higher quality than bargain bin alternatives
Just did a job with Waterstop cement , Lol, maybe I could have used the Sika self level sealant, but I needed something that will not break down over the years. and glad our contractor who cemented the driveway did a nice job, but I have t odo that the next time if i want that softness, I don't
Great video, wish I saw this and did twisted vs butting the backer rod. The outcome was the same, I’m giving it a day to dry, then will apply a thin coat to finish it off. Also don’t apply in direct sunlight it will cause it to bubble as I notice the difference with indirect sunlight applications.
Your channel popped up in my feed and I just happened across this video. Thank you for posting this, I have that concrete as well and will be fixing it properly.
I did a similar tactic but instead of buying expensive backer rods, I just used 3 pool noodles and cut them to whatever length and width I needed. It worked out the same and only cost about $2.00 per noodle as opposed to $25 in backer rods.
Freeze/thaw is the least of your worries. That water that gets downe there is washing away the gravel that was laid prior to the concrete being poured. That leaves big voids that will eventually result in concrete failing. You addressed this on a different video when you leveled out an uneven sidewalk.
Great video, just wondering why you used the vacuum AFTER putting down the sand? Didnt it pull all the sand back out? Thank. you for sharing this great information! You just picked up a new subscriber.
Good question, I wanted to make sure I got all the sand off the concrete surface where the Sika would bond. I was careful and didn't really pull much sand out of the filled holes/cracks.
Thank you so much for the excellent tutorial! Super helpful. The gap my garage has is about 2 inches wide--is that sealable using the same method, using just more materials?
I see many people on here calling that gap a crack. It is not a crack. It's an expansion joint, they are there for a reason. You will get surface cracks if the floor can't expand and contract naturally
For a super deep and wide gap I used quik mix cement.Then leveled that at 1inch deep then used backed rod cut in half ,to be flat,filled cracked with a sausage tube ,leveled and set caulking in 5 foot sections with silica sand applied fairly heavy.I then retooled the gap ,it turned out super nice
Thanks, great info! 2 questions: 1. Can I skip the backer rod, and just fill the gap with sand, then overlay with sealant. I’m planning to paint over the sealant afterwards 2. I have some leftover DAP Kwikseal from a bathroom sink project. Can I use that instead of concrete sealant, or will I have adhesion problems? Thanks again!
Did not see your video before the first attempt at filling the gap between the garage and driveway. Your sand suggestion would have prevented the unevenness of the outcome. Is there a way to remove the Sika product so we can try again? There are also spots where the product “spilled” over into the driveway. Anyway to clean that up? Thanks for the concise and helpful video!
I did this exact process as I saw we had chipmunks burrowing between the gap. I hadn’t seen any activity for a few days and figured they had moved on. I was so happy with the outcome but it was short lived! 🤦♀️ 3 days later there was a hole in the sealant and a chipmunk dug through the backer rod and the sealant. Any suggestion on what I could use to fill this to where they can’t dig back into the gap? I didn’t know if using a thinned out batch of actual concrete and pouring that into the gap would do any damage to the garage concrete pad or the driveway pad. I’m open to suggestions!
It does, it's for expansion and contraction, this is why they put the black foam stuff before they add the concrete, but if you remove it and what the gentleman did you won't get weeds and it looks better.
Hi. Would it be possible to just use the silica sand to the desired hight and then use the self leveling filler on top of the sand? Great instructional video by the way
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I do..Detergent/degreaser to clean entire surface. Scrape loose paint and may need to disc/grind sand complete surface till smooth. And you know the rest. Your channel is awesome. I've been a contractor for 45 years in all the trades and there is some great stuff on you tube resurfacing garage floors
My experience with lose sand is you need to compact it. As you can not reach the sand, a bit of water does the trick. In my experience, you are able to add another 50 pound of sand before you're finished.
Yeah, I went through the whole bag (50 lbs) and if I would have used some water to compact I probably could have added a bit more. Thanks for the feedback!
Any reason not to use an el-cheapo 5/8 or 1/2 lawn hose as a backer rod for wide gaps? Then I covered the run with self leveling sealant. I did it and it seemed to work just fine????
@@melvincarter350 using closed cell backer rod with self leveling will make 2 points (left and right) contact with concrete instead of 3 sides contact. The theory with 2 points will make the sealant able to expand easyly
Hi! Would you suggest fixing cracks in the winter while the cold weather causes the most expansion? I live in south Louisiana with lots of humidity, long hot summers, and I've been waiting for colder weather to fix my concrete cracks. Does this matter?
I have a larger irregular crack that is between my garage ...and the part that is the beginning of driveway which is cement ramp. I am using a product called Top n Bond by Sakrete because I have some more patching and smoothing repair work to do there as well.... I will clean and fill with sand and backer rod too like you did ....before I apply the cement mix... Thanks for your VIDEO.....Note I have some fine hairline cracks in my garage floor .. WHAT do you recommend for fine hair like cracks... fill in or leave alone?
Do you have tips for wintertime? I have done this twice the past two winters, and each time the sealant breaks and I end up having to rip it all up and do it again.
Three years ago I had the same issue with my asphalt driveway and the garage floor. I wish I had seen your video; I ended up doing exactly what you had done including topping off the self-leveling caulking (this stuff is magic) the next day. Everything worked perfectly and remains so three years later. Thanks for a great video!
Love the video thanku.. we had A LOT of rain i thought i took care of the water getting into the garage,wrong! My driveway is slanted down slightly toward the garage. I do have gaps. I'm going to try this for sure.. I do have a question? Water got in on the side of the garage. I put lots of dirt then river rocks along side the house seems to be working. My problem is water went up the wood prob about 4 in. High so that area of wood is discolored like its starting to rot. Do u know what I can do to fix that? I'm new at all this stuff. I can't afford to pay for it so I'm leaning as I go lol I'm 61 yr old woman who is determined to fix my house myself. Ppl (a veteran couple)I bought the house from sold me a mess & I didn't see some of it. I'm a veteran. Sad. Sorry for long msg/question lol have great day/night..😊
Sand is so fine it takes a lot to fill up cracks and holes. I just did that but not on that large scale. I didn't think about using some Backer Rod. Thanks
Thanks for the video! One question, do you fill the gap with sand all the way up so it touches the backer rod or can there be a gap between the backer rod and the sand lying at the bottom?
I ran into a very big issue this past December with the constant rain and then deep freezing temps. My driveway is made up of super think concrete pads. The expansion joint has deteriorated long ago. Now this huge and massive pads are floating away with each thaw and the gaps are widening and the pads are no longer aligned. I hope something like this repair will work for me and it's not too late. My driveway is 143 feet long and the parking pads are 10x10 square (4 of them). I can't begin to imagine the cost of replacing.
That's a lot of concrete! Reducing the amount of water getting in and undermining the pad couldn't hurt. Best of luck on the project. I would be using Sika Self-Leveling or Tremco Vulkem 45 SSL amzn.to/3GNie2f
I have a gap between the road and my driveway. I was told the Park I live in are going to replace the driveways next year. I do have cracks from trees that were between my neighbor and I. I will use Flex Seal on my patio side. I have Crab Grass in one crack near my front steps. I will see how that product works.
Good Video, that settling crack behind you indicates that the foundation under your driveway is poorly compacted and allows moisture from the surrounding terrain to seep through. Maybe review your lawn sprinkling and roof drain plan!
Sika Self-Leveling Sealant (Gray 29 oz): geni.us/2AGdCmG
Large Caulk Gun (29 oz): geni.us/pJaKTw6
Backer Rod (5/8" x 20'): geni.us/GGBgVZo
Wire Brushes: geni.us/VuizGK
Tools Every Weekend Warrior Needs
Makita Cordless Drill Combo Kit: geni.us/t7dIA
Dewalt Drill Bit Set: geni.us/oFlSl
Dewalt Screwdriver Bit Set: geni.us/VDcr
Craftsman Screwdriver Set: geni.us/jXqFI
Eklind Allen Wrench Set: geni.us/7XfvO
Pliers (4-Piece Set): geni.us/RIdx
Milwaukee Fastback Utility Knife: geni.us/MlyiLk
Stanley Tape Measure: geni.us/bUfD1R
Studbuddy Stud Finder: geni.us/RySCuVw
Johnson Torpedo Level: geni.us/wiLcDY
Stanley Hammer: geni.us/bPDk8Wo
Buck Bros Wood Chisel Set: geni.us/vk3cpTW
Klein Voltage Tester: geni.us/h9Hl
Klein Outlet Tester: geni.us/kdBAJ
Milwaukee Wire Strippers: geni.us/5zuLAbC
Little Giant Ladder: geni.us/fmlmTk
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Thank you so much for this video. It's the only one on UA-cam that clearly demonstrates how to fix this issue. I am trying to prep my home for sale and the way they build homes today, (cutting corners) caused ground settlement way too fast. I thought I was going to have to do lots of cement mixing. This method is so much easier.
Agree.
i liked your video, but you can also use a swimming noodle and cut accordingly much cheaper and waterproof also
Holy hell. I've been trying to gather this type of info for months to purchase the right material and then execute the job. Thank you so much for this video. You're extremely thorough and advised us how much material you used for the job you posted. Thank you again. I always appreciate your content. Cheers!
Great, happy to help and best of luck on the project
Awesome video. Clear. Concise. Focused. No bs. Clear list of materials and tips. Thank you!
AMAZING! I needed to replace the old ratty filler in the gap in front of my garage door. Thank you, Scott, for posting such a clear and simple step-by-step video. Your tips on filling the gaps with sand and braiding the backer rods for larger gaps were particularly helpful. I was able to complete the job in good time with no surprises. Looks great!
Just did 560 feet of driveway relief joints with sika flex self leveling on a 2 year old driveway (Had time to settle). Pressurewashed, let dry, sprayed roundup to kill potential weeds, Filled any cracks in joints with multipurpose sand, insert 1/4" backer rod snugly so it didn't float. Finally compressed air to clean before applying. Then proceeded to spend the whole week after work squeazing sika into the joints. Job took 6 29oz tubes. I had a solid 2 weeks with no rain which helped a ton. I had slope, but because the joints were 1/4" the surface tension kept the liquid from bleeding. Will report on material quality after a year.
You could have used Vinegar and salt for a lot less money and it won't poison the earth and Kill Bees and beneficial insects :)
A few tips from my results from 2 years ago - Sika self leveling - works great, the non self leveling sealant is garbage and does not stay adhered though, I used that on a couple sidewalk steps since self leveling wouldn't work and it ended up being worthless. I used very high quality sealant in the huge tubes (Novalink SL Self Leveling Sealant), bought a whole case and had to get 3-4 large tubes of Sika to finish my patio + driveway, I did all of the cracks. I used the Quickrete fine sand to fill all the cracks after I power washed, cleaned, dried out the cracks. That sand will fill all the holes easily, use a brush to get it down in there and then clean up as well. No need for backer rod.
You're keeping me busy. I've been staring at thes gaps and cracks for sometime. Between this video and the sidewalk gaps you've got my back. Thanks again.
I used a similar process on my concrete patio. The old wood joint material had rotted away over the years and the joints were looking awful. Cleaned out the joints, then used sand to fill the gaps. I used a little water to pull the sand down into the voids that had formed beyond the joints and under the concrete slabs. I brought the sand up to leave about a 2” deep open joint. I had to use some larger backer rod as some joints were 1”+. I used a tan filler, it looks better than the gray on my concrete. I used over a dozen tubes of filler and over a nearly a hundred foot of backer rod. It still looks great and has held up for two years now. One thing, if your backer rod isn’t snug the filler will find the gaps and drain down below the backer. This can waist a lot of material if not corrected. Also make sure any place the backers meet or cross joints that it’s pushed tightly together to eliminate gaps.
Thanks for info. Clean joints, Sand for filling, backing rods, joint filler.
GREAT video!! I watch "A WHOLE LOT of DYI video's", and your format/style is one of the best I've viewed. No stupid background music; audio was good (I couldn't even hear bug's in background!) Your voice was clear, and instruction's were easy to understand; not just telling me a process, but explaining why. Once again, Thanks!
Thanks Leslie, appreciate the feedback and kind words.
Thank you for breaking down the process to properly tackle this problem. My initial thought was to pop down to the Home depot and buy a sealant. Now my approach is quite different.
SAME!!
This is an EXCELLENT how-to video!
Recently had a slab put in the back that I filled with the same self-leveling adhesive (in the expansion joint). Your video inspired me to do that for my two-car garage also. The sand beforehand was brilliant. I'm totally doing that. Thanks for the well produced video too.
awesome video, camera work, and explanation of how to and specifically what supplies used, brands used, and dos and don'ts. glad you came along somehow as i have a crack job on my garage concrete that i wasn't sure how to do.. one damn good job on how to!!
Gotta learn alot of house maintenance on the fly and this is just like gold i uncovered without looking for it. Awesome know how every homeowner should learn.
one of best videos ever made for home repair. we need to know what to use to fill in gap at bottom of door.
The sand finish idea is muy bueno!!!! It really made it blend in and look nice. Thanks!
Pro tip: Use fine silica sand to dust the sealant while it's still tacky. Blends with concrete color much better and avoids the sheen like appearance of the smooth caulk. I also prefer to tape the joint because it allows me to fill the joint to the very top and still get clean lines.
with self leveling caulk, will it stay to the very top? thanks
add some local dirt to the sand to increase the color match to surrounding area
Where do you get fine silica sand?
So true. There is another good YT who shows putting the sand or dirt on the drying caulk- it blends really well that way. You could also use a foam pool noodle cut in halfsies if you are on a budget. All in all this was a great video. I liked how he shared quantities of the product he used and explained and showed the steps in clear camera angles.
I recommend NOT going to the top and being level with the concrete - you will almost surely get tire marks if you drive over it. One line in my driveway has tire marks, the rest do not, I overfilled (to just about level with the concrete) that gap a bit.
Great video as I’ve done similar work. One thing I learned is make sure that backer rod is snug! Otherwise it floats to the top.
Also, that stuff is super messy and a pain to clean up. Gloves are a good idea, and it will run like crazy if you set it down so have thick cardboard to put it in if you need to take a break.
Finally, I’ve seen others use stone dust or sand to put on top of the wet caulking to blend the look. The caulk really sticks out aesthetically so something on top blends it in. This is especially true with colors. I smashed a red brick to dust and used that to help blend into a red colored stamped concrete patio.
Overall great video!
Great feedback, thanks for the help Brendon 👍
Great video just brought a house and this is my weekend project. Headed to Menards to get supplies now.
I like the crushed red brick idea......that will match our home. Thanks! Pretty cool how reading video comments has helped me over the years.
If you spill or drip on the concrete just throw a hand full of sand on it and scrub/kick it around with your foot. It will pull it up, rubbing alcohol works good also especially if you get it on the siding or what not.
Thanks for this. I’m a widow now and I do have a spot that’s not very big doing this where my pool shed concrete stops and pool concrete begins is doing this.
Hi Simone, sorry to hear of your loss but I am happy we can help as you take on some of these projects. Wish you all the best.
Thank you for the tips, just the video i needed to fix the gap. I appreciate your time spent on making this video.
Thanks!
Just had the slab meeting the garage mudjacked and now, onto filling the gap between. Great video. Hope to get it done before the snow flies!
I saw another UA-camr sprinkle on some silica sand as a top finish after the caulk crusted over a little. Then a leaf blower to get off any excess. Just a little extra finishing touch. Look great! Hard to believe how much sand swallowed up in that crack! I better get busy on mine before winter sets in. 😱
Great timing! I was just cleaning out the joints in my driveway this week, thinking I need to seal them all up to stop the weeds. Thanks!
That would help, best of luck on the project 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs sad thing is, if I did ALL of the joints and I have the same application rate, supplies would cost about $500! Might have to wait a little while. But thanks for the how to.
Its very helpful you mention the quantities of product used. I always under estimate how much I need!
You and me both, I didn’t mention my 2nd trip to Home Depot for more backer rod and sealant 😂
I sprinkled sand on after, looked great on my end
Yeah, I have started doing that as well. Nice finish touch 👍
Thanks. I love it that you tell us exactly what you're using, where to get it, and get straight to the point and demonstration.
That’s the stuff I used and it worked well. One slab had lifted a bit too, so I ground down the lifted edge with a diamond concrete grinding wheel first.
thanks for the feedback Carl 👍
Thanks bro! Yes will either dust with similar color sand while the sealant is curing. Or what I found from a basement crack repair video is to save some of the same colored debris I swept out and sweep it back over the concrete repair in that case. But the fine sand is a better idea. It's cheap too. Good job man! 👍
Great adea braiding tightly for a larger gap. For narrow gaps I have cut pieces from white packing foam that is the same material as the backer rod or pool noodle.
Great video. Just did this past weekend around my pool between coping and decking. Sika product is great, but highly recommend dusting with sand, as it has a sheen even when dry.
The Rapid-Set polyether works just as well as Sika, and actually stick better to concrete, granite, and sandstone. Been using this for years, especially for water-features. All of these have the same problem, in that they will not set inside an enclosed Gap or Space (for weeks to months), but work great on a single concrete line. Also, don't forget GatorDust and GatorSand. These polymer concrete products are used extensively in our area, to just fill simple joints, up to about 4-inches or less. Much easier and faster to do, if you are working for speed, especially patios, walkways, or similar semi-flat features. We use the Gator products to set boulders also, but the material is weaker than concrete, so cannot take the same stress or moving pressure.
Thank you so much for your excellent tutorial! I’m an old lady but I’m going to try to do this myself. My question is, should I remove the old sealant first and if so what’s the best way to get it out? Thanks again.
Holy Smokes I was waiting for those insects to come and carry you away! That was nuts!
Thank you soooo much for your great instructions on this topic. I used a pool noodle cut to size and Vulkem 45SSL for my project as you suggested in another video and it’s perfect.
YOU ARE THE BEST PROFESSOR.
This self-levelling Sika product worked GREAT. We have a large patio/pool deck area and struggled with weed growth and fire ants (we're in Texas) and I filled over 50 feet with this product and am very, very happy! Next project is to move to the driveway and do it again. Thankfully our lot is pretty flat, so this Sika filler works great for us! Thanks for the tip!!!
Do you remember which Sika product you used? They have a couple on the market.
I used that self leveling sealant and it only lasted a few years. It turned chalky grey, got hard and cracked. I replaced it with GE Silicone Seal. It's more expensive but after 5 years of winter snow and summer sun it's still there and still completely sealing the gap.
I did a search for the GE Silicone Seal you mentioned and just looks like standard window/bath caulk. Is there another name for the self leveling version of GE Silicone Sealant? I would imagine it would need to be self leveling for this type of application.
So you refer to the Northeast freeze and cold. We live in Texas and have gumbo soil. It shrinks and expands with rain and shrinks with no rain. Won't take years to damage but only months.
One thing I also learned managing highrise buildings is that crickets can reach the top of a 56 story building. The favorite food of crickets is caulking. So hoping this sealant will be the better choice.
Great video. Spoke clearly. Demonstrated exactly what needs to be done and the products used. Thank you.
I see a driveway crack behind you in the last scene. Can you do a video to fix driveway cracks? Great video
Thank you! I'll be tackling this job at my house this weekend.
For wider gaps - can use foam pipe insulation. Can bridge various wide gaps since center of the pipe insulation is hollow and allows the shape of the insulation to vary.
That is a great idea 👍
I knew I saved that extra for some reason.
thank you for this information. My garage has always let water inside. I have lost a few thing from this. But now I'm haveing it fixed. Thank you so much
I love that shop vac! The big wheels are a definite plus; makes it easier to pull around without it getting caught up on small obstacles on the ground
That Sika seems to be really good stuff. I used it in the same area and over my expansion joints. They also make an asphalt version which is used where the concrete apron meets the asphalt driveway. It isn’t cheap but the finished product seems to be much higher quality than bargain bin alternatives
Good Job! That crack in the concrete behind you, please show us how to fix that. Thx!
Just did a job with Waterstop cement , Lol, maybe I could have used the Sika self level sealant, but I needed something that will not break down over the years. and glad our contractor who cemented the driveway did a nice job, but I have t odo that the next time if i want that softness, I don't
Great video, wish I saw this and did twisted vs butting the backer rod. The outcome was the same, I’m giving it a day to dry, then will apply a thin coat to finish it off. Also don’t apply in direct sunlight it will cause it to bubble as I notice the difference with indirect sunlight applications.
I have been wondering on how to take care of this same issue for the longest. Thank you a great deal. I will be taking this on real soon.
Gonna cost more than I wanted to spend but this is PERFECT. Easy.
Your channel popped up in my feed and I just happened across this video. Thank you for posting this, I have that concrete as well and will be fixing it properly.
Best of luck on the project and welcome to the channel.
Super helpful, dude! I'm in a northern climate and this was just the info I needed.
Anyone else find this oddly satisfying?
👍🏻
Braiding the backer for larger gaps! I learned something! That's a great idea.
NICE NEIGHBORHOOD!!! TY I WONDERED WHAT WAS IN BETWEEN THE SLAPS👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Very timely in that I have to do this to my house. I was starting to look at the best product to use and I'll just use what you recommended.
Best of luck on the project!
I did a similar tactic but instead of buying expensive backer rods, I just used 3 pool noodles and cut them to whatever length and width I needed. It worked out the same and only cost about $2.00 per noodle as opposed to $25 in backer rods.
Water plug cement is is the bomb. It expands to rock hard. Now you can power wash and not have it blasted out like sealant
Great video! I believe it's pronounced "sea - ka" Great stuff. I've recently used their concrete repair that comes in a bucket with great success.
I was 95% confident I was pronouncing it wrong. Thanks for the help 👍
Freeze/thaw is the least of your worries. That water that gets downe there is washing away the gravel that was laid prior to the concrete being poured. That leaves big voids that will eventually result in concrete failing. You addressed this on a different video when you leveled out an uneven sidewalk.
Great video, just wondering why you used the vacuum AFTER putting down the sand? Didnt it pull all the sand back out? Thank. you for sharing this great information! You just picked up a new subscriber.
Good question, I wanted to make sure I got all the sand off the concrete surface where the Sika would bond. I was careful and didn't really pull much sand out of the filled holes/cracks.
You can put the backer rod in before the 2nd vacuuming to keep the sand in place
I ended up with 50lbs of sand in my shop vac. LOL
If you have a sloped application where the self-leveling filler would run out you can use a product like Tremco Dymonic FC.
Good point Rob, thanks for the callout 👍
exactly what I was going to say
@@kevinlawrence4930 would you please give us a name of the heavier caulk you use before you add the self-leveling caulk? Thank You!
Great straightforward well shot video.
Thank you so much for the excellent tutorial! Super helpful. The gap my garage has is about 2 inches wide--is that sealable using the same method, using just more materials?
I see many people on here calling that gap a crack. It is not a crack. It's an expansion joint, they are there for a reason. You will get surface cracks if the floor can't expand and contract naturally
Will the sealer still expand and contract a little with the concrete during temperature swings?
For a super deep and wide gap I used quik mix cement.Then leveled that at 1inch deep then used backed rod cut in half ,to be flat,filled cracked with a sausage tube ,leveled and set caulking in 5 foot sections with silica sand applied fairly heavy.I then retooled the gap ,it turned out super nice
Thanks for the feedback!
Do not put cement in between as it does not allow movement and will therefore jam and caused the concrete to break on the top surface
Thanks, great info!
2 questions:
1. Can I skip the backer rod, and just fill the gap with sand, then overlay with sealant. I’m planning to paint over the sealant afterwards
2. I have some leftover DAP Kwikseal from a bathroom sink project. Can I use that instead of concrete sealant, or will I have adhesion problems?
Thanks again!
Did not see your video before the first attempt at filling the gap between the garage and driveway. Your sand suggestion would have prevented the unevenness of the outcome. Is there a way to remove the Sika product so we can try again? There are also spots where the product “spilled” over into the driveway. Anyway to clean that up? Thanks for the concise and helpful video!
I did this exact process as I saw we had chipmunks burrowing between the gap. I hadn’t seen any activity for a few days and figured they had moved on.
I was so happy with the outcome but it was short lived! 🤦♀️ 3 days later there was a hole in the sealant and a chipmunk dug through the backer rod and the sealant.
Any suggestion on what I could use to fill this to where they can’t dig back into the gap? I didn’t know if using a thinned out batch of actual concrete and pouring that into the gap would do any damage to the garage concrete pad or the driveway pad. I’m open to suggestions!
Be careful that you don't trap the animal wherever it is burrowing into or under. It will die there and you will have bigger problems.
All these years, I thought that gap belonged there😮
It does, it's for expansion and contraction, this is why they put the black foam stuff before they add the concrete, but if you remove it and what the gentleman did you won't get weeds and it looks better.
Does the sealant expand as it cures? The section you poured over the braided backer rod looked like it rose over the level of the concrete.
Hi. Would it be possible to just use the silica sand to the desired hight and then use the self leveling filler on top of the sand? Great instructional video by the way
Hi,
Thank you so much for the very useful information
Can I use cement concrete mixture to fill and level up the gap instead of general purpose sand?
Is the self leveling sealant safe to breath and use indoor project?
1. Thanks! Very helpful. 2. Why not fill with sand to 1/4-1/2" and apply self-leveling sealer directly to that? Because sand may settle or wash out?
You do great work. Can't wait to watch you repair/resurface your garage floor
Oh man, I am dreading that project. Actually, not even sure how to approach it, any tips? 😂
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I do..Detergent/degreaser to clean entire surface. Scrape loose paint and may need to disc/grind sand complete surface till smooth. And you know the rest. Your channel is awesome. I've been a contractor for 45 years in all the trades and there is some great stuff on you tube resurfacing garage floors
My experience with lose sand is you need to compact it.
As you can not reach the sand, a bit of water does the trick.
In my experience, you are able to add another 50 pound of sand before you're finished.
Yeah, I went through the whole bag (50 lbs) and if I would have used some water to compact I probably could have added a bit more. Thanks for the feedback!
Any reason not to use an el-cheapo 5/8 or 1/2 lawn hose as a backer rod for wide gaps? Then I covered the run with self leveling sealant. I did it and it seemed to work just fine????
@@melvincarter350 that'd be a good way to recycle an old hose! I wonder how it would perform.
@@melvincarter350 using closed cell backer rod with self leveling will make 2 points (left and right) contact with concrete instead of 3 sides contact. The theory with 2 points will make the sealant able to expand easyly
That garage and driveway were laid down well originally, which made your work easier and professional looking.
Use pool noodles to save money instead of backers and sprinkle sand on top of self leveling filler to match the sidewalk.
Hi! Would you suggest fixing cracks in the winter while the cold weather causes the most expansion? I live in south Louisiana with lots of humidity, long hot summers, and I've been waiting for colder weather to fix my concrete cracks. Does this matter?
Great I've learned today! Can I use the pool noodle?
I have a larger irregular crack that is between my garage ...and the part that is the beginning of driveway which is cement ramp. I am using a product called Top n Bond by Sakrete because I have some more patching and smoothing repair work to do there as well.... I will clean and fill with sand and backer rod too like you did ....before I apply the cement mix...
Thanks for your VIDEO.....Note I have some fine hairline cracks in my garage floor .. WHAT do you recommend for fine hair like cracks... fill in or leave alone?
Do you have tips for wintertime? I have done this twice the past two winters, and each time the sealant breaks and I end up having to rip it all up and do it again.
Question, could you simply apply the sealant directly on top of the sand and skip the gasket?
Very good suggestions.
You are spot on with the Sika products
Reminder to one and all - Wear eye PROTECTION when doing anything especially the "scooping out" shown in this video. Another good one Scott. Thanks.
Very good info &. Video that shows us…
Happy to help
Three years ago I had the same issue with my asphalt driveway and the garage floor. I wish I had seen your video; I ended up doing exactly what you had done including topping off the self-leveling caulking (this stuff is magic) the next day. Everything worked perfectly and remains so three years later. Thanks for a great video!
Love the video thanku.. we had A LOT of rain i thought i took care of the water getting into the garage,wrong! My driveway is slanted down slightly toward the garage. I do have gaps. I'm going to try this for sure.. I do have a question? Water got in on the side of the garage. I put lots of dirt then river rocks along side the house seems to be working. My problem is water went up the wood prob about 4 in. High so that area of wood is discolored like its starting to rot. Do u know what I can do to fix that? I'm new at all this stuff. I can't afford to pay for it so I'm leaning as I go lol I'm 61 yr old woman who is determined to fix my house myself. Ppl (a veteran couple)I bought the house from sold me a mess & I didn't see some of it. I'm a veteran. Sad. Sorry for long msg/question lol have great day/night..😊
Sand is so fine it takes a lot to fill up cracks and holes. I just did that but not on that large scale.
I didn't think about using some Backer Rod. Thanks
Thanks for the video! One question, do you fill the gap with sand all the way up so it touches the backer rod or can there be a gap between the backer rod and the sand lying at the bottom?
Your videos are so helpful. Thank you!
I ran into a very big issue this past December with the constant rain and then deep freezing temps. My driveway is made up of super think concrete pads. The expansion joint has deteriorated long ago. Now this huge and massive pads are floating away with each thaw and the gaps are widening and the pads are no longer aligned. I hope something like this repair will work for me and it's not too late. My driveway is 143 feet long and the parking pads are 10x10 square (4 of them). I can't begin to imagine the cost of replacing.
That's a lot of concrete! Reducing the amount of water getting in and undermining the pad couldn't hurt. Best of luck on the project. I would be using Sika Self-Leveling or Tremco Vulkem 45 SSL amzn.to/3GNie2f
If you don’t need at backer, just add the self leveling sealer on the filler sand?
I have a gap between the road and my driveway. I was told the Park I live in are going to replace the driveways next year. I do have cracks from trees that were between my neighbor and I. I will use Flex Seal on my patio side. I have Crab Grass in one crack near my front steps. I will see how that product works.
Good Video, that settling crack behind you indicates that the foundation under your driveway is poorly compacted and allows moisture from the surrounding terrain to seep through. Maybe review your lawn sprinkling and roof drain plan!