What’s Wrong With This Falling Block Single Shot?
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- Опубліковано 7 лип 2024
- Welcome to Ron Spomer Outdoors! Join me and my SD Rifle as we take some test shots and see if my aim is getting better or worse with different ammunition.
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Who is Ron Spomer
For 44 years I’ve had the good fortune to photograph and write about my passion - the outdoor life. Wild creatures and wild places have always stirred me - from the first flushing pheasant that frightened me out of my socks in grandpa’s cornfield to the last whitetail that dismissed me with a wag of its tail. In my attempts to connect with this natural wonder, to become an integral part of our ecosystem and capture a bit of its mystery, I’ve photographed, hiked, hunted, birded, and fished across much of this planet. I've seen the beauty that everyone should see, survived adventures that everyone should experience. I may not have climbed the highest mountains, canoed the wildest rivers, caught the largest fish or shot the biggest bucks, but I’ve tried. Perhaps you have, too. And that’s the essential thing. Being out there, an active participant in our outdoor world.
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Disclaimer
All loading, handloading, gunsmithing, shooting and associated activities and demonstrations depicted in our videos are conducted by trained, certified, professional gun handlers, instructors, and shooters for instructional and entertainment purposes only with emphasis on safety and responsible gun handling. Always check at least 3 industry handloading manuals for handloading data, 2 or 3 online ballistic calculators for ballistic data. Do not modify any cartridge or firearm beyond what the manufacturer recommends. Do not attempt to duplicate, mimic, or replicate anything you see in our videos. Firearms, ammunition, and constituent parts can be extremely dangerous if not used safely. - Спорт
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Like I said in your first video shooting this gun. “Send it back to the manufacturer”. A gun that cost that much should at least shoot sub MOA.
I honestly can't believe Ron, you of ALL people were silly enough to NOT take a properly tested rifle to Africa!😮
Ron, you asked a couple questions recently: (1) do want a show about silencers, and (2) would we rather have 1 60-min show or 2 30-minute shows per week.
My vote is (1) yes, yes, yes ... I want to hear/see more about silencers from trusted experts, and (2) definitely 2x30.
Keep up the great work, Ron.
... I'm writing down all the excuses so I can use them on my next range session
I have a 7X57 Finley Parker and Hale probably made for silhouette shooting. It has a Douglas air gauge semi bull barrel making it heavy but 140 grain clover leaf groups make it a charm for antelope. I love it. I am not a bench shooter just a hunter, God only knows what it can do. Finley Knew what he was doing. Not a bad buy 1980's $250
I’m with you Ron , I also hate to get my holes confused !…….
I actually believe a fouled barrel shoots faster not because it’s lubricated but because it’s getting dirty thus more friction and higher chamber pressure!
Is that sling attached to the barrel directly? Hmmm…thermal expansion/contraction of steel combined with the added mechanical force from a sling is a recipe for inconsistency.
Quit normal on older europeen rifles and hasnt been a known problem if done correctly to my knowledge atleast. Same material will contract and expand at same pace often, but most rifles with these slings arent made for more than 5-10 shots at a time
More internet fuddlore.😒
@@wizardofahhhs759 me or?
@@wizardofahhhs759 why is everything automatically referred to as fudd lore? I’m convinced the term ‘fudd’ was actually introduced by liberals trying to make the 2A community divisive by driving a wedge between experienced shooters and younger neophytes
Silly..
Ron, if you haven't yet, I would suggest using an inch pound screwdriver on the for-end screw and check various tensions to see how that affects your groups due to how the SS for-end mounts. Slight swelling and shrinking can cause them to be slightly looser or more snug both at the receiver block and at the screw itself which can affect your groups. I love that little rifle. It is beautiful.
Ron, I hope you read this comment. After watching all videos on this rifle I would highly recommend you have the barrel/action looked at. Go over scope ring and base screws torque first. Then check action screws. Then get another accomplished shooter to shoot the gun to make sure it’s not you. A gun like this should not be shooting this bad regardless of what bullet manufacturers recommend. A cheap factory gun can shoot 1moa easily with a good shooter and better with hand loads. Those groups look like mechanical issues with the bore. I have worked on many guns and a gun shooting like this would be going back to the manufacturer or getting an action blueprint and a rebarrel, then a bedding job. Start with the basics, screws & torque, scope damage (put the scope on another gun you know shoots well), inspect crown for damage, bore scope, take the barrel clamp off for the sling swivel. Eliminate one thing at a time. I’m pretty confident you will deduce that the bore/chamber/action has a problem. First port of call is the scope and mounting.
plus. It is unrealistic to expect projectiles of wildly different dimensions ( different weights ,BC , design,construction , OAL , powder etc )to shoot similar groups. It does happen but is extremely rare..
That's all right
I agree with the basic trouble shooting first, but when it comes to relieving wood from receiver, removing pressure points to free float barrel etc I would send it back to the custom rifle builder to finish the job! out of the box it appeared to have accuracy issues. compared to the lowly tikka rifle from few days ago, the pretty single shot looks bad in accuracy for a custom rifle! I believe the pretty 7x57 will shoot after some grooming!
Ron, thanks for all the input and your videos on this fine-looking rifle.
I thought about having these fine people over in South Dakota, build me a rifle like this. After watching you battle with this rifle, I think, I will regress my thinking on purchasing a rifle like this.
I truly hope you get this all figured out.
Take care.
Out of curiosity I checked the website of the manufacturer for this rifle because I wanted to see what it costs, bare bones rifle costs $8,000.
That is a darn shame to spend that much for a piece of art because it sure is not a shooter. He has to fight it to load and eject the rounds. I would be embarrassed if I was the builder.
Ron, loved the video, just brings memories of the 7x57 which was my Dads favorite round. All he would talk about with his reloading buddy’s and the years at hunting camp was this round and Karamojo Bell and the elephants he (Bell) took with it. I was wondering if this was the reason you selected the 7mm for this trip you talked about. Dad had the exact same rifle in the #1 (wood was not as nice as yours) but he made me promise I would harvest a deer with it after he passed in 2003. I did take a nice whitetail with it. I have four 7mm thanks to Dad and it is also my favorite bullet, having taken many whitetail and black bear with it and now my daughter has moved up from the .243 to my .280 on my Thompson. (8 deer and a bear for her so far so I guess I have passed something on). Dad taught me reloading at a young age (now 63) it is my favorite hobby, thanks for doing your UA-cam channel, I watch it often and usually don’t comment on these but you doing this story on the 7x57 and the Ruger #1, I couldn’t resist. God Bless, George, Rumford ME
Love the 7x57 or 8x57
Good luck Ron and remember perseverance pays off. I checked the Hammer site and they have quite a few 7mm bullet offerings. You could step up in weight a little bit and use one round for everything, or continue with your current load and develop one with a heavier bullet for larger game.
I don’t understand why Ron always seems to be short on ammo and reuses old targets. If I was shooting a $10k rifle, I’d have 200 cartridges from the same lot on hand to test it out.
I don't know what to think about that. A custom rifle I could never afford grouping like that, plus it didn't look like it fed, or ejected very well.😅
Minute of shotgun is always a little disappointing from a high $ rifle… time to try some load development with different powders & or send it back to the builder to prove it / fix it?
From ehat i know about rifles, my first thought is forend pressure, as you mentioned at the end. That assumes the bases and rings are snug and properly torqued. It would be worth trying a couple of different bullets as well, including cup and core. With the bullets you are using, would it be worth experimenting with seating depth? I assune you know the throat dimensions, and would know how much you can vary the seating depth and OAL. Might have to work up loads with different powder also, which may be hepful given the often spotty availability these days. Never hurts to have good loads with more than one powder. I am sure you know all this, but sometimes it helps to hear it from another source. Thanks for showing the good and the bad. I would venture to guess 1.25 moa is achievable with that design, and maybe a little better. Those 160's compare favorably with 180 gr 30-06, and should be adequate for almost everything down here. I recently saw the video where you and Joseph had the 160 A Frame go through the maple log in a 7mm-08, and nothing else did. Hope you get good results with that rifle. Looking forward to the followup videos.
3 shots 3 days, cold bore.. true hunting shooting test.
Not all barrels like to digest different weight bullets. Barrel harmonics is something you may want to look into.
Interesting to see a custom rifle like this be moody. I have a Ruger No1 A Light Sporter 7x57. Barrel band sling mount, similar setup to yours. Factory Ruger barrel. Mine was VERY load sensitive 3-4MOA (140gr to 160gr) shooter before some tireless handloading tighten it up to 1MOA with 120gr bullets. My best reloads are the 120gr Barnes TTSX or Nosler BT. I can't get 160gr anything to shoot much better than 2MOA. I'm really surprised to see what is basically a new rifle struggle like my late 1970's Ruger. I wouldn't have expected that even with the quirks of the falling block action.
Great diagnosis’s Ron
I have a slight correlation with your rifle in regards to grouping and velocity
I have recently acquired 2 new rifles, upon load development and shooting. Both rifles were “premium “ brands
I found the following :
Groups on both rifles were around 1 1/4” which moved around orientation
Velocity always slowed down on bare naked bore
Cleaned every 20 rounds or so.
Conclusion
The .264 win mag started stacking shots at around 175 rds
The 6.5 prc finally stacked groups at 200 rds
I had mixed results with testing Barnes LRX and sierra gamechangers TGK
Followed both barrel manufacturers break in procedures
Stick with it some bores just need some shots , I pulled most of my proverbial hair out with mostly the same situation you have experienced
Good luck
See isn’t that nice to see the speed of the projectile in front of you. I’m happy to see your stepping up to the modern world.
Love my 7x57s, including my #1 in 7x57. I have just collected a bunch of brass and load my own ammo. Commercial ammo is only around a couple of weeks a year
With hand loads I have my CZ 557 7X64 Brenneke shooting sub 1/4 MOA at 100m with a 12X scope. It’s my only wood stock dedicated hunting rifle. I’m never happy unless I get min 1/4 MOA out of any of my rifles but I mostly do bench rest target shooting. Point is, with the right bullet, case, and powder that beauty of yours should shoot 1/4MOA. Just takes time. Good luck!
Ah ah 😂 ahem…
Beautiful rifle Ron. I wouldn't mess with the firearm itself, just yet. Really work through your hand loads, try different powders, and different charge weights, find a node that barrel likes. I recently struggled with this on my new M70, and I went back to basics and sure enough found a load that gun loves.
first thing I check with erratic accuracy of an unknown rifle, Is the crown OK? What is the twist of the barrel? Is the barrel clean?
Aside from cleanliness, what you said will NEVER CHANGE, if it did shoot...it should still the barrel isn't changing rifling
Crown could certainly change if it were damaged.
Another great Video Ron 💯 thanks for Sharing 💥💥💥💥💥💥💥
Dude shot a dang horse
He shot a zebra, not the same animal. While related they really are very different animals.
LOL
@@charlesmccoy5857 😁
+1 to jaydunbar7538. That being said even if they were the same, other cultures do not see horses the way they are seen in the US
@@jaydunbar7538 really? You so slow you didn't realise he was kidding?
I find it’s usually the ammo with powder becoming more difficult to get. It changes the velocity and point of impact. Just ask hornady
How too prove your custom $10,000 rifle isn’t as accurate as a $1,000 off the shelf rifle! It’s a shame
I would say $500!
@@Squizzle-56 your probably right!
It’s not the rifle it’s the nut behind the recoil pad🤔😳🤣 60+ years of reloading hunting and collecting hundreds of rifles and it’s so funny when we don’t follow our own advise🤔😳 Ron Never use 2 different types of ammo on a hunt it’s a recipe for failure! Good news you didn’t get attacked or killed by some wild animal so I guess you live to learn another day!
@@retired-pipefitter $200
Ron, you just have to face facts! Some rifle barrels just like certain bullets/ certain weight bullets. I have some that favor flat base over boattails.
1/2” groups? You can do it!!!! I think and have developed this thinking from listening to you and putting it to the test, scrubbed barrel and shooting hammer or Barnes, then the more I shoot same bullet , the barrel magically shoots that bullet better(somebody explain that magic🤷♂️). Also any bullet change to a barrel after its broke in for an all cooper bullet, then I’m back to square one with group size. I believe the fuss is worth the terminal ballistics of the all cooper wonders! Thanks for the great content
I'm only a bit into the video, but I spotted an immediate mistake. With Hammers it's recommended that you scrub your bore to bare metal before shooting them. Something about how their copper and design doesn't go well with other copper and fouling patterns, blah blah. I'll edit this when I finish the video.
Yeah, you figured it out. Good on you Ron.
I use Barnes XLC 165 in my 7x57 with no issues.other than needing a sharp knife😂
@@matthewvassoff5736 good for you, Matthew, but I do not know how that applies to my comment. Hammer Bullets always shoot better if they’re the only bullet that has touched the rifling within that cleaning span.
@@noahhorinekyou are correct and Ron knows this but doesn’t follow his own advise🤔😳🤣
Ruger No.1 (and some clones), notoriously shoot erratically due to forearm “lump” which touches the barrel. It’s a relatively easy fix to grind that lump out, free-float and glass bed that fore end. Rifling twist rate, relative to bullet weight can be an issue too. Heavy bullets require faster twist. I’m my opinion MOST factory rifles have too slow of a twist rate, for the commonly available loads.
Yikes! Those were some wild groups. I have to wonder if the scope/rings/base are on there solid. If they are, the scope might be the culprit. The only time I had something shoot as wildly as this was when I was shooting a 12 ga slug gun and the rail came loose.
Great video Ron thanks
My ignorant thought, it could be that this particular rifle is super finicky about the ammo going through it. It might be, that you have not found the ammo brand, bullet type, weight, that it will prefer?
I have a Ruger #1 in 7x57 that had similar problems. I even went so far as to have it smithed with a screw inside the forearm to adjust upward pressure on the barrel, with little result. I was only shooting the standard 140 grain factory loads, but one day I saw some S&B 175 grainers on sale and they shot great! The Ruger, and perhaps your falling block, have a fast twist rate for long slugs. It was that simple. The Federal 175 grain also groups well. I don't know if twist rate vs bullet length is particularly an issue only with 7x57 or peculiar to falling block actions. Either way, I just stick with heavy slugs and it's a great shooter, though not MOA even with those. It's just "good enough."
I use to own a Ruger # 1 270 cal with hand loads the best group was like 3 / 3 1/2 inch groups, sold it !
I have an old marlin 336 in 30/30 , my main hunting rifle. If I switch from one type bullet to another I temporarily lose accuracy . For instance going from hornady interlock round nose to ftx . If I go ahead and shoot several rounds the accuracy comes right back. I’m no expert but this has been my experience. I was really glad when I figured this out . Hope this helps
Lovely rifle, and the 7x57 is a lovely round.
Good video, Thanks
If I was going on an expensive hunting trip, I'd take one kind of ammo, the one which is the most reliable and accurate in my rife. I would not mess around with two different loads, especially different bullet weights and bullet composition. All copper bullets are notoriously fickle on accuracy.
scope is where id look. find one you trust😊
The 140gr Acubond personaly I will load for this rifle, check on quickload for a rough load and work from there.
Sometimes the problem is staring back at you in the mirror!
Most accuracy issues are solved at the reloading bench. Just takes time and some aggravation.
Thanks Ron, I'm having some of the same issues.
I don't take a bench with me when I go hunting and conditions are not always optimum, so I personally want a rifle that shoots twice as good as I expect to shoot in the field. I prefer 5 shot groups, it gives a truer picture of what a gun will do time after time. Those are my thoughts. Beautiful looking rifle too.
When going to Africa it’s best to take old Betsy that has been tried and proven over a rifle that doesn’t have any track record yet! Just my 60+ years of reloading hunting and collecting about 2,500 rifles over the years so many failures as well as success in breaking in a new rifle 😂
Keep up the good work !!!!!
Randy Selby and others have videos about accuracy problems in Ruger #1’s caused by the way the forearms are attached to those falling block rifle barrels. I know there are multiple other factors to consider but that might be something to look at.
If know this video is about using and promoting a particular manufacturers new style bullets but if I had the money to hunt in Africa and was using a 7x57 (which I would not be afraid of) I’d stick with the long proven 175 grain bullets for even the largest plains game. As Dr Kevin “Doctari” Robertson says the 7x57 “just works”. The 7x57 has been made even better today with bullets like the Nosler Partitions and Long Range Accubond bullets. I’d also stick with Mauser ‘98 or Winchester M70 controlled round feed action rifles. Happy hunting boys and girls!😊
Mercy sakes, what a gorgeous chunk of wood!
Hay Ron
They got this new gag-it called a spotting scope. Amazing new device that lets you check your target from your shooting position. Maybe you should try one !
he said he likes exercise. give him a break
My wife enjoys the spotting scope view. I like the exercise.
It looks like the scope ring is touching the objective end at the taper. Slide the scope forward a hair and see if it changes
What I have Seen in the passt is, when I changed from lead to copper, it needed 4-5 shots with the new bullet until the rifle grouped well again.
What you need to do is strip the rifle down and throw everything but the action in the bin. Once you have your action in hand you need to call all your sponsors and use the parts they send you to rebuild it into a total custom rifle in a completely different caliber. Hey presto, it'll shoot one third MOA and you can buy yourself an ice cream with all those sponsor bucks.
With the way things are today - I struggle with the idea that "you need to find ammo it likes" when something's putting up shotgun groups.
I get finding ammo it likes to get from 1.5 moa down or something like that but ammo today is too consistent, bullets and powders are too consistent, brass is too good, barrel makers too good and machine tooling too consistent for ammo to be the "reason" a rifle shoots like a 12 ga choked IC. (on average compared to 30 years ago)
Very interesting and I’m sure frustrating. As I have mentioned in comments on previous videos I have a No. 1 in 7x57 and I created my load using 140 grain TTSX bullets, it shoots .75” to 1” groups. I recently bought some 150 grain scirocco’s and created a new load for them and got them shooting groups equal to the TTSX’s. When I shoot them together at the range the group size remain good but of course the point of impact is different. I think it’s a similar situation to what you have but I’m not seeing the accuracy issue. I hope that you’re able to resolve the problem and that you update us on what you find. Good luck my friend.
My pa taught us boys to load "matrix's" pick a bullet and load it at several variations of speed. Shoot 2-3 of each and log their accuracy. Check the bore after each volley and keep notes on fouling, and review the data for your best choice of speed per bullet mfr.
If you are ever without coper cleaner all you need is an ammonia window cleaner if it's really bad you can plug the bore and let it soak for a couple hours or even overnite
I don't see how two different bullet weights, different powder & charge can perform the same. The bullet coefficients are different, flight is going to be different along with speeds. Ron, help me out.
Sorry Ron. That gun would be for sale. It sure pretty though
It shot well in Africa except for one shot. It shoots poorly no matter what after traveling back home. Something happened on the way home. Scope, rings, action screw, wood expansion…
@@chipsterb4946 wood warping may be one of the ones to,look into,as that can happen . When you mention it i remember reading about a Norwegian guy that experienced the same with a Sako rifle down in SA ,when he came back home it shot just weird,,took it to stock maker,and a much wood removed,and replaced with bedding .
So many variables going on. In my experience I have only found two different bullets that shoot same poi. The Sierra Game King and Barnes TSX will shoot to the same point with the same exact loads, I.e. bullet weight, powder, and primer but with 0.30” off the lands Barnes and 0.10” with the Sierra. I do moly coat everything. Yes messy but it works for ME.
Check comment Ron , some anti freedom comments there
Yes I had some troubles with my Ruger nr 1 when I had it , but I solved it with new scope .
I think it’s the copper bullets that may be the issue different mix in the copper I think ., what was the barrel twist for the 7mm ?
Hey Ron I noticed it looks like your shooting up hill. And the way you have your rear support bag on the angled bottom of the stock. Before the bullet leaves the barrel, the recoil would make your shots consitantly high. I've recently learned that long distance shooters use stocks with a flat bottom thats parallel to the barrel. I would also recheck the scope mount as well.
It’s you man it is you !
I can tell you from my own experience with my Ruger #1 in .308 how you ride that front bag is most important. If you go back and look at your own video you'll see that point of the firearm on the front changes from shot. Mine likes to rest way back towards the rear of the rifle.
Ron try 173/175 gr factory ammo Sellior and Bellot or PPu...
Ron Cowell makes a nice front rist for about 150 dollars it has a level built into and the front bag opens and closes to help hold the for end
I have a old 7x57 mauser that is a laser with the old 175 gr. Load I have used it on everything.
Have someone else who you trust has solid fundamentals shoot the rifle. See if it’s you or the rifle/load.
I think you’re on the right track with the 2 loads not liking working together. I think if you gonna switch between the 2 your gonna have to scrub the barrel
... I've got a sub $200 Rossi single barrel that can do better than that with cheap Chinese surplus ammo
Who T great video by far one of the best explanations in dailing in a scope
Hey Ron, I would love to see you do some 5 round groups.. I think it would be nice if everyone started getting back to 5rnd groups
Keep up the great work!!
In one of Elmer Keiths articles in an old Guns and Ammo magazine, i remember him tslking about those type of rifles. Some gave good accuracy, some didnt. It seemed he had a fix for it but i cant remember what it was. Maybe someone out there remembers.
Is it normal for a falling block system to not extract the case? The way Ron has to stuff around to get the case out would make me not use that rifle at all.
It works fine when I'm not trying to catch the brass, Clay. Falling blocks are not the smoothest to operate on a bench.
Did taking off the sling change the barrel harmonics?
howdy Ron, know you are probably a busy guy and don't have much time to respond but here goes. (going to be a long comment ) I live down in KY after I got out of the army, but I was raised in IL. I know darn Yankee lol, but I'm a southerner at heart. Point being is that rifle hunting for deer and such was illegal where I grew up until last year or so. However, now that I live in a less communistic state I can rifle hunt for my deer/hog and the wife and I wouldn't mind going on a guided hunt in the future. She will always be a die hard fan of her 1975 Winchester 94, but I have always loved my bolt actions and scopes. So I decided on buying a 1965 Winchester model 70 chambered in 30-06 with a 4x savage scope. beautiful gun and it shoots great. Problem is that it doesn't fit me well. My fingers are too long for where the trigger is at and the angle of the grip makes for an awkward time readying my piece. So I have decided to sell it (posted on gunbroker if anyone is interested) and look for a different rifle. I was able to handle a variety of different guns and I think I have settled on a 1980's model Remington 700 BDL chambered in 30-06 with a Leopold 3x9x50 scope. But here are my questions...
1. Are the old Remington 700's the great rifles they are said to be?
2.Are they very accurate?
3. Is 30-06 the best choice for an all round hunting/ ranch rifle
4. What scope mag is best for medium to big game hunting
5. What is your recommendation for a rifle company that puts care into making their guns. Good wood, actions, etcetera
I'm not Ron, but I'll give you my 2 cents worth.
1. I've had a 1983 model 700 in 30-06 for over 40 years. The action is strong and simple, with a very weather-resistant bluing. I consider it a great rifle.
2. With my handloads, it shoots 3/4" 100 yard groups.
3. Three great deer cartridges are .270, .280, and 30-06. It would take several lifetimes of deer hunting to determine which is the better of the 3.
4. It has a Leupold 2.5-10x40 scope, which is nearly always set to 2.5 x. Your 3-9 is very good.
5. I also love my Weatherby Accumark in 6.5-300. Synthetic stock (no wood), heavy stainless fluted barrel, 9 lug lockup, 54 deg bolt lift, superb trigger, also shoots 3/4" groups, but a bit pricey (a little less than $2000).
This should be good.. Am typing this before watching btw. I hope you can in doing this get an ideal If its the barrel fouling worse with 1 over the other,n affecting the accuracy of the other. Ran into that with Barnes X n Orginals while didnt have an accuracy issue as others did.. Did have to clean bore a bit more often to keep it.. Wish was keeping notes back then as well as do now.Agree with what Ya mentioned . Carry on. N God Bless Ya n Yours
After Watching...I believe your on the right track here.. I think if you have n wish the Northforks might want to retry them as gonna be doing with the Hammers. I think if they shot well before Africa they should now.
I dont think pressure on it but not worked with that type of single shot..
I have noticed on H&R one has to be consistent with where front forend is supported maybe something for yours.
I do think WIND is an issue for accuracy here..noticed it during 3006 week.. Not saying it is but a gust as you fire can very well play havoc with a group.Notice the tree behind ya light moving to full shake ,You would know more about that than any of us however.
I also hope ya sint done with the 06s IF YOU ARE SEND TO ME I WILL WRING EM OUT..😂
Carry On Sir
Well Done
if the thing was shooting before I would change the scope, check mounts and rings alignment etc before modifying the rifle.
Great cartridge 7x57mm .
Something is not consistent...barrel whip , free bore travel, forend pressure inconsistent powder charge, inconsistent bullet weight,bad barrel crown , loose scope mount screws , it's something...on to part 2..
Might give some thought about operator. Ha!
The operator has thought about the operator for more than 50 years and has that part figured out. I shot with another rifle the other day (same bench set up) a .441"., several sub MOA groups with a variety of loads. I try to call my shots to within an 1/8 MOA.
@@RonSpomerOutdoors-Podcast I’m 74 this year and have lost a step or two myself but I’m still schooling the young guns at the range. I won’t make to Africa but at least we get to watch. How about writing a book on Your Safaris.
Ron, I own two 7x57 rifles and I work up handloads that each rifle likes. Surely you do this too?
Store bought ammo is a hit and miss proposition for hunting or anything else for that matter.
Edit: you can also buy 7mm abrasive bullets to firelap the rifle barrel to polish manufacturing defects in the barrel.
Tell me about your bench. Looks very stable. Thanks
think you need to strap it down to a led sled, eliminate the variables.
How are you cleaning? Iosso bore paste and Iosso nylon bore brush will do it. Or Thorro Clean. I’d try Lapua brass and a different powder. Perhaps a lighter TTSX.
Beautiful rifle Ron , it looks like you may have had a little bit of trouble closing the action ? Maybe you should size your brass a bit more?
I figured you seized the block
The old adage applies: 3 shot groups don't tell you anything, unless it is a "proven" load. Always shoot 5 or even 10 shots per group, when diagnosing the accuracy/precision of a rifle. With that being said, I'd be very concerned with a rifle that is shooting 1 1/2 - 2+" 3 shot groups, I probably would not waste the other 2 shots to make a 5 shot group. Statistically a 5 shot group will be bigger, and a 10 shot group will be much bigger, when a 3 shot groups looks that bad.. Since that is a custom rifle, I'd be on the phone talking to them. There may be some undue stress on the barrel, from the forearm, or something like that. I also don't trust the Swaro's. Try a "proven" scope. I've had a couple Swarovski scopes puke on me.
IT IS NOT A MATCH RIFLE. When hunting, shots 1 thru 3 are the most important - with shot number 1 being THE most important.. I would rather see the AVERAGE of ten, three shot groups with each group fired fairly quickly from a cold fouled bore (as you would hunting) than the 5 to 10 shot target shooter groups thst have . NOTHING to do with how the gun is used when hunting.
I DO agree with you about the scope . Swaros are overrated and that very well could be the problem.
BELIEVE I'D TRADE THAT ONE.......
Bore scope it and check the chamber. I had a Custom Cooper Arms rifle in 6mm Creedmoor that shot about as poorly as this rifle. It was a horrible chamber job, not dialed in properly so the free bore was cut deep on one side and nonexistent on the other. Absolutely ridiculous. It was at the time Cooper was purchased by Nighthawk so the warranty was useless because you couldn’t get service. I had it rebarrel By my local gunsmith and it shoots 1/4” groups now.
Those falling blocks are not very scope friendly.
If the manufacturer of the rifle test shot the rifle for accuracy, by any chance did they supply a case and the load they used to achieve their accuracy. I may even cerresafe the chamber and throat dimensions, tight bore or a little bit loose.
I know the feeling of wounding an animal as you described. It’s a terrible feeling. For me at least, the rule is to take a rifle I know well and trust, with a load that is well proven. Don’t change it.
did the builder send a test target with the rifle? If so, what loading did they shoot it with. Assuming the test target group was satisfactory, duplicating that load would be a good place to start and see if you can duplicate the results. It may be worthwhile to send it back to ParkWest (spelling?) to see if they can sort it out or give you some info. I would surely expect a custom / semi-custom rifle to perform better than that. On my Sharps, I did shave a few thousandths off of the stock where it meets the barrel. A piece of notebook paper will not fit in the gap but upon close inspection there is a gap. Prussian blue does not transfer. Also, where the screws attach the stock to the barrel, I punched out a couple card wads (about .010" thick) to go between the stock and the barrel to act as kind of a buffer. Hard to truly free float the forestock on a single shot so minimize the contact points. Hope you get it sorted out
I got forrester copper foam, can you investigate barrel cu cleaning