I'm eagerly awaiting when you open a second channel on UA-cam of videos of just you squeaking the spray bottle. It'll make the most awesome sound effect to annoy friends and family at will! ;-) I'd prioritize that over the Rafa's Mom channel of a live feed of you feeding her...
Doug you should try shooting clear with a gun just get you a cheap little touch up gun with a 1.0 tip and some transtar clear with a medium or slow activator. You try to do stuff all the time you don't have a lot of experience in why not try a paint gun
Morning Doug, I use 3000grit to wetsand plastic trim . I start with 2000 then 2500 then 3000 then polish. It doesn't cut thru the can clear that easy and it's easier to polish back up to glass shine
Im the one who suggested the wheel clear. Glad to hear you like it! I am part of the telecaster (guitar) forum and many guys have complained about that duplicorlor acrylic clear was not getting hard and beading up when wet sanding, then using the wheel clear and it dries hard in a hour or so and is ready to cut n buff.
To avoid any fisheyes in the POR15 base coat do a super thin first coat and let it dry completely. The POR15 reacts with rust so if there is a tiny spec of it, it will create a chemical reaction making a gas bubble. If the first coat is extremely thin, the bubble can escape and then you can do another thicker coat. If you don't do it this way, the paint can be too thick for the bubble to escape.
Doug your doing a great job I enjoy drinking my coffee in the mornings and watching your show I spent all day yesterday watching season 1 and 2 going on 3 today
I wouldnt worry about top coating the POR-15... Its under your seat. It'll never see enough sunlight to fade. It would need to see substantial amounts of sunlight to get messed up.
3m trizact system for wet sanding really works well for larger panels. You can get a really even wet sand using them on a DA. They make them in 1500-5000 grit.
A tip to make it really glossy with cans is to lay a few coats, the wetsand, then another coat and then wetsand again. Also use a 2 part clear can. Anything with hardener will harden harder and wont dissolve when you use aggressive cleaners. You will also be able to spray thicker coats.
You can get good results from rattle cans. There was a guy here locally that had a '23 Track T roadster called "The Krylon Kid" and it looked great! As some one else mentioned, it's not as simple as pouring in paint and spraying. You need to get your air right too. Something I would suggest though, try sanding sponges or packing the paper with a sponge or some closed cell foam. When you sand by hand you can actually get ripples form your fingers in the paint as well as applying more uneven pressure. That could be part of the reason you kept sanding through the clear and the base. Also check out some red glazing putty for small spot fills that don't neccesairly merit mixing up a batch of body filler.
Your getting some nice results from a can Doug!! Some tips though, that spray can clear needs to dry more than a hardened clear coat. Give it a day before trying to machine buff and see if you get better results. Also fine cut cleaner is ok to use on a machine polisher but the glaze is not a polish it's only meant to be applied by hand and is the only "wax" you should use on freshly painted surfaces. Wax locks your paint which is not a good idea when it's fresh. Paint needs to breath for a while after it's sprayed to allow it to cure and harden all the way.
Duplicolur makes a 3 part kit... I used the blue/purple kit and with several coats of the secondary coloring (wet sanding between coats) then clear coating (again sanding between coats) it's flawless!
great job Dougie fresh , don't forget about paint temp and air temp when painting warmer is better dont know what exact temp is best but i always warmed my cans of paint in the sun before i painted.
Doug, the answer to the ultimate wet wet is Spray Max 2k Clear. It's the wettest of the wet and you can sand the shit out of it. It of course has UV protection so Rafa's mom's toenails stay looking good for years to come.
the mirror glaze isn't really a polish, its more of a concealer. Used to fill in small scratches and swirl marks, on a car it typically lasts a few weeks. the best compound and polish you can get it M105 and M205. they are dedicated compounds and polish that most automotive detailers use.
Doug you should use 2K clear it's a two-part epoxy clear coat in a can and I've used it and it comes out as good as the clear coat that automotive shops use the only problem is you'll have to plan to use it all within 24 hours of mixing it it also dries way harder than that clear coat that you're using
Doug you gotta lay on at least 3 heavy coats of that duplicolor before you can start polishing. It's really thin. Also try spraymax 2K in a spray can. It's about $30 a can but it sprays on really nice.
Try using flat clear, if you ever get someone wanting a flat looking paint job. They use it on old school cars to make it look like primer, but with all of the benefits of UV protection and no fade.
Look it the longneck nano battery powered polisher it would be perfect for the size of jobs your doing and they work great ! You would really like it . They have sanding discs for them and tons of pads .
Watch Out. I used some of the same Plastic Wood filler on an outside wood deck, then painted with heavy deck paint. After 4 months the patch work of the Plastic Wood filler lost its top coat of deck paint! Great work! When will the Mule be done?
Just to be sure, you are not using a wool pad for polish, right? Wool for cutting compound and foam for polish! That panel turned out dope!!! I need to learn how to pull off a wetness job like this for my custom Home speakers!!
Exactly! Or even Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish since they have the micro abrasion particles and are a little easier to use. The glaze isn't really useful for clear coats.
get you a 2k clear. I did so many thing inside and outside. It is in a can. about 20 bucks a can but the results are crazy good!!! Then you can say "wet wet".
Using a proper lacquer with hardener and a gun will give you a harder thicker layer to work with, save you a shit load of time, but its the high build primer on f.g bits that will save you even more. Doug you will be able to pick up using a gun and compressor no problem.
If you are getting those great results out of a can you could deff use a hvlp sprayer.. even the harbor freight purple gun is pretty good as long as you completely take it apart and clean it before you use it. If not you can also try a 2k clear in aerosol can it has the paint and hardener In one can you push the cap on bottom to start mixing it.. lays on thicker and harder to sand thru than regular clear.. also try meguirs ultimate compound it's so good :) keep up the awesome work
I always run my cans under hot water to increase pressure for better atomization of the rattle can color and clear...leaves a better finish. Maybe it will help?
Sand in a circle pattern. Don't want straight left to right if you use circle you have less of a change of dig through and the outcome is smoother because you are cutting in multiple directions. I hope you perfect the wet wet
Hey dude, go to an automotive paint supplier and ask them for a rattle can of 2K clear coat. It's badass shit, comes in a rattle can, and lays super smooth. Way better than that duplicolor laquer or wheel clear coat!
I think it's the removed paint that's gumming up your pad. Rattle can clear is soft, so no wonder it cuts fast and leaves a lot of residue. You can try a less aggressive compound, but if it works fine I wouldn't mind cleaning the pad more often when doing such a small piece.
Are the grommets that seal the ports through the back cab wall going to have some flex to them? Going over speed bumps and stuff will make the cab and bed move separately more than you would think.
Doug, have ever tried some of that piano black colored vinyl wrap and a heat gun with a fresh razor blade it might be easier for these type of plastic parts. Not sure how good it would look compared to the wet wet but be worth a try.
Doug, since clear coat from a spray can tends not to have as much orange peel perhaps use a finer sandpaper instead of the heavy grit paper your using try 3M Trizact foam pad part#3M30662. Your finish will be WET WET WET WET!!!!
There is also some stuff called Pro max 1k acrylic clear..... it works excellent over other rattle can stuff..... you can get a 2k version to. If you go 2k the can lasts about 24 hours
There's nothing wrong with the rattle can method. It does take time though. I'll share a pic of a set of wheels I did a while back in duplicolor dual color and clear. They turned out okay and the Scout's on auction now for $40k.
Meguiar's m205 and m105 is an awesome 2 step cutting compound/final polish that works awesome on base clear paint. Not sure how it will work on the rattle can clear. Otherwise 3m ultrafina works really well as a final polish also.
Nice job Doug, I think your better off with the rattle can, I've been doing it like this for a couple of years now with no problems with the cans, but I think there would be to much waste with a paint gun, just my thought
Bro, invest in a sata minijet or equivalent. Do you a couple test pieces and you'll be rockin stuff out in no time. It's excellent for small pieces and doesn't use much material.
Doug I have a challenge for you - Build a ported 2x JL 8W7 sub box that can fit behind the seats of a Tacoma double cab. I have the space ready and a box built but yes my box is 1 inch to big and now I gotta rework it.
Hey Dougie, I don't know if you ever thought about it, but you should pick up a touch up gun and spray base clear out of it. Save you tons of money and you can get any color mixed for you. 😇.
But for real look up kevin tetz, he's makes a ton of instructional videos about painting and pretty soon you'll be carrying around a towel cause that shit be so wet. 💦💦 the benefits will be from the better atomization so it'll lay flatter and won't take much at all the get that mirror finish. 1 tac 2 wet
What kind of plastic can I use to do a dash modification? I need to make a 2D curve so I'd need to heat gun it to shape but it would have to hold up to summer baking heat. I might just use carbon/fiberglass but I like the idea of some poly/abs so I can use some epoxies to bond it to some framing.
Did you bedline the table in the beginning? Or am I just now noticing it. Also, Doug have you seen the video on Line-x put out by veritasium? Very impressive.
Doug now you have to change your "SoundmanCA splash screen" @15:44 from the primered to the finished wet wet dash panel...so get your thumb out and get to that picture taking and editing!!!
+SoundmanCA I used to make a ton of dash panels and never made the jump to a full HVLP spray setup. Gloss and clear coats were always tough, but I came across this stuff which made it a lot easier: www.spraymax.com/en/products/product/clear-coats-and-spot-blender/2k-clear-coat/ They have a couple different versions. It's color sandable and UV resistant. It's a 2 part paint, so it has a pot life once you pop the can to mix it. They have smaller and larger cans depending on your project size. The adjustable fat-caps give you awesome control over your fan, too.
Acrylic lacquer doesn't have very good durability (uv light will break it down fast) and will scratch and chip easy .Check out either summit or eastwood they have a urethane clear that takes an activator in a spray can. You just break the seal and shake the can to mix. It will wet sand and buff like glass and will hold up to heavy uv break down found in a car in a sunny environment. A much stronger product and easy to spray
Good try with dup color . Lol clear but there’s not enough solids in the clear it’s too thin might I suggest you run down to the local auto body shop and pick up U Pol or bumper clear in a raddled can something with thicker solids with the bumper clear at least you have the flexibility on the trim pieces so it won’t crack on you when you Whip it in place.
If you still gonna stick with meguiars line of products. Then switch to M100 or M105 for cutting compound. After that finshed it off with M205 polish, then top it off with your favorite wax .
Hey Doug U should get the clear in a spray can that has the hardner release the only thing the can only last 24hrs but its a better clear and thicker then what u guys r using.. and believe it or not since your not spraying a car is not that hard to spray clear out of gun even with harbor freight gun think about it
Fisheye is grease/oil. Rattle can is far more likely to react when repainted, you don't need 2k clear either to spray from a gun you can use single pack lacquer and paint just like you are now only the gun will give a better spray atomisation and more predictable spray pattern.
Completely avoid sanding the edges because by the time you sand and polish that thing you will have nothing left. We used to mask the edges of the cars we were working on, moving the tape after every step of sanding to blend nicely.
I guess today was a slow day, there were no customers today. Probably because the electronic spark from the door chime mixed with the fumes from the rattle cans could ignite the 🔥🔥💥💥💥🤣🤣
Doug, you need to go to better rattle can clear. You need to get the Bruce Jenner Clear.......Transtar jammin’ clear....... it can be wet sanded if sprayed correct.
GOOD MORNING DUDES!!! :))))
SoundmanCA thanks for all the tips on paint I'm a can sprayer also plus even if I smoke I bowl I still get what you saying 💯
I'm eagerly awaiting when you open a second channel on UA-cam of videos of just you squeaking the spray bottle. It'll make the most awesome sound effect to annoy friends and family at will! ;-) I'd prioritize that over the Rafa's Mom channel of a live feed of you feeding her...
SoundmanCA this is what I use. Comes out dope. www.eastwood.com/ew-2k-aerosol-high-gloss-clear-26897.html
SoundmanCA.
Doug it's not the time for this. You need to go back to Extreme Auto Sports for the Rafa is your wet wet dad lesson.
Doug you should try shooting clear with a gun just get you a cheap little touch up gun with a 1.0 tip and some transtar clear with a medium or slow activator. You try to do stuff all the time you don't have a lot of experience in why not try a paint gun
People complain about how long it's taking so long but I just wanted to say thank you. Now I know how to do my console and dash
It takes all day to produce and edit video.
Shawn Jones
I can imagine. All I'm doing is giving credit where credit is due. The man is there for his friends his family and has a great talent
Dirtyd23
I have a huge amount of respect for him. He inspired me to redo my car. Plus he explains most of everything he does
3m makes an amazing headlight restoration kit that comes with an awesome polish too
Morning Doug, I use 3000grit to wetsand plastic trim . I start with 2000 then 2500 then 3000 then polish. It doesn't cut thru the can clear that easy and it's easier to polish back up to glass shine
Good job, well done Doug! Looks like a Steinway piano finish out of a rattle can!
It warms my heart to hear Napalm Death in your videos. Ahhh... the soothing sounds.
Im the one who suggested the wheel clear. Glad to hear you like it! I am part of the telecaster (guitar) forum and many guys have complained about that duplicorlor acrylic clear was not getting hard and beading up when wet sanding, then using the wheel clear and it dries hard in a hour or so and is ready to cut n buff.
Keep it up Doug. Keep trying new things and pushing it.
Thanks for the videos.
To avoid any fisheyes in the POR15 base coat do a super thin first coat and let it dry completely. The POR15 reacts with rust so if there is a tiny spec of it, it will create a chemical reaction making a gas bubble. If the first coat is extremely thin, the bubble can escape and then you can do another thicker coat. If you don't do it this way, the paint can be too thick for the bubble to escape.
ahhhh! i did see the bubbles form 👌 thanks for the tip
good thing the bubbles could explode and ignite the fumes .... :O
Loving the wet wet! And having Rafa back in the show is just great!
Love the tutorial and tips you share as you progress, but also love the throwback music you cut in...thank you and keep it up this great channel. 👊🏾👊🏾
Doug your doing a great job I enjoy drinking my coffee in the mornings and watching your show I spent all day yesterday watching season 1 and 2 going on 3 today
always good freestyle jams in the background
Call that center piece done,it looks perfect
The MIami Freestyle and Booty Bass has been awesome.
Yo Doug keep up the good work can't wait to see the thunder bird build start that was my first car i had
I wouldnt worry about top coating the POR-15... Its under your seat. It'll never see enough sunlight to fade. It would need to see substantial amounts of sunlight to get messed up.
Damn bro Rafa created a monster with the rattlecans!!!!
3m trizact system for wet sanding really works well for larger panels. You can get a really even wet sand using them on a DA. They make them in 1500-5000 grit.
A tip to make it really glossy with cans is to lay a few coats, the wetsand, then another coat and then wetsand again. Also use a 2 part clear can. Anything with hardener will harden harder and wont dissolve when you use aggressive cleaners. You will also be able to spray thicker coats.
You can get good results from rattle cans. There was a guy here locally that had a '23 Track T roadster called "The Krylon Kid" and it looked great! As some one else mentioned, it's not as simple as pouring in paint and spraying. You need to get your air right too. Something I would suggest though, try sanding sponges or packing the paper with a sponge or some closed cell foam. When you sand by hand you can actually get ripples form your fingers in the paint as well as applying more uneven pressure. That could be part of the reason you kept sanding through the clear and the base. Also check out some red glazing putty for small spot fills that don't neccesairly merit mixing up a batch of body filler.
Doug they have 2k clear its a two part in a can that works good
Your getting some nice results from a can Doug!! Some tips though, that spray can clear needs to dry more than a hardened clear coat. Give it a day before trying to machine buff and see if you get better results. Also fine cut cleaner is ok to use on a machine polisher but the glaze is not a polish it's only meant to be applied by hand and is the only "wax" you should use on freshly painted surfaces. Wax locks your paint which is not a good idea when it's fresh. Paint needs to breath for a while after it's sprayed to allow it to cure and harden all the way.
Duplicolur makes a 3 part kit... I used the blue/purple kit and with several coats of the secondary coloring (wet sanding between coats) then clear coating (again sanding between coats) it's flawless!
great job Dougie fresh , don't forget about paint temp and air temp when painting warmer is better dont know what exact temp is best but i always warmed my cans of paint in the sun before i painted.
Doug, the answer to the ultimate wet wet is Spray Max 2k Clear. It's the wettest of the wet and you can sand the shit out of it. It of course has UV protection so Rafa's mom's toenails stay looking good for years to come.
I'LL have to try it!
Ive done headlights with it and other miscellaneous objects and they're still glossy as hell🤙
Chase McElfresh he should use it on Ralph's moms back it will remover the hair and smooth her back out!
What would Rafa's mom think?!?
10 times better than that duplicolor shit.
Morning Dougalatto watching first thing before I go to work here in New Zealand.
the mirror glaze isn't really a polish, its more of a concealer. Used to fill in small scratches and swirl marks, on a car it typically lasts a few weeks.
the best compound and polish you can get it M105 and M205.
they are dedicated compounds and polish that most automotive detailers use.
Doug you should use 2K clear it's a two-part epoxy clear coat in a can and I've used it and it comes out as good as the clear coat that automotive shops use the only problem is you'll have to plan to use it all within 24 hours of mixing it it also dries way harder than that clear coat that you're using
I would like to try this paint process. I like how crisp it finishes.
Doug you gotta lay on at least 3 heavy coats of that duplicolor before you can start polishing. It's really thin. Also try spraymax 2K in a spray can. It's about $30 a can but it sprays on really nice.
You gotta go deeper to get that wet wet!!
Nobody's more perfect then you at making it flawless your clearly a genus mastermind.
I swear to god, u r a legend, I am learning alot from u everyday thanks u
Try using flat clear, if you ever get someone wanting a flat looking paint job. They use it on old school cars to make it look like primer, but with all of the benefits of UV protection and no fade.
Automotive 4k clear coat works great Doug. You can mix and spray rightaway with a hvlp gun
Look it the longneck nano battery powered polisher it would be perfect for the size of jobs your doing and they work great ! You would really like it . They have sanding discs for them and tons of pads .
Sem makes a 2 part clear in a can. There is a bubble on the bottom of the can to activate it.
Watch Out. I used some of the same Plastic Wood filler on an outside wood deck, then painted with heavy deck paint. After 4 months the patch work of the Plastic Wood filler lost its top coat of deck paint!
Great work! When will the Mule be done?
Just to be sure, you are not using a wool pad for polish, right? Wool for cutting compound and foam for polish! That panel turned out dope!!! I need to learn how to pull off a wetness job like this for my custom Home speakers!!
Try Meguiars 105 to cut and 205 to polish
Megs No. 7 doesn't have any cut as its just a glaze
Matt Welcer couldn't have said it better
Exactly! Or even Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish since they have the micro abrasion particles and are a little easier to use. The glaze isn't really useful for clear coats.
I came to comment this :( day = ruined
get you a 2k clear. I did so many thing inside and outside. It is in a can. about 20 bucks a can but the results are crazy good!!! Then you can say "wet wet".
How long are you letting the clear cure before trying to wet sand? 3M trizac discs in 3000 & 5000 grit would help. They last a long time too!
Using a proper lacquer with hardener and a gun will give you a harder thicker layer to work with, save you a shit load of time, but its the high build primer on f.g bits that will save you even more. Doug you will be able to pick up using a gun and compressor no problem.
I'd recommend Meguiars 205 polish after you use the compound. It will bring out the wet wet better than the glaze.
Just do a tweeker paint job. Black tape then use packing tape for the wet wet look.
😇
If you are getting those great results out of a can you could deff use a hvlp sprayer.. even the harbor freight purple gun is pretty good as long as you completely take it apart and clean it before you use it. If not you can also try a 2k clear in aerosol can it has the paint and hardener In one can you push the cap on bottom to start mixing it.. lays on thicker and harder to sand thru than regular clear.. also try meguirs ultimate compound it's so good :) keep up the awesome work
I always run my cans under hot water to increase pressure for better atomization of the rattle can color and clear...leaves a better finish. Maybe it will help?
Sand in a circle pattern. Don't want straight left to right if you use circle you have less of a change of dig through and the outcome is smoother because you are cutting in multiple directions. I hope you perfect the wet wet
Hey dude, go to an automotive paint supplier and ask them for a rattle can of 2K clear coat. It's badass shit, comes in a rattle can, and lays super smooth. Way better than that duplicolor laquer or wheel clear coat!
Oh shit!! EXTREME AUTO really is sponsoring this show....thought you were fucking around Doug😂😂😂
I think it's the removed paint that's gumming up your pad. Rattle can clear is soft, so no wonder it cuts fast and leaves a lot of residue. You can try a less aggressive compound, but if it works fine I wouldn't mind cleaning the pad more often when doing such a small piece.
Are the grommets that seal the ports through the back cab wall going to have some flex to them? Going over speed bumps and stuff will make the cab and bed move separately more than you would think.
ive used this paint on exterior pieces. holds up for like 2 years max. (duplicolor and the wheel clear and regular clear)
Doug, have ever tried some of that piano black colored vinyl wrap and a heat gun with a fresh razor blade it might be easier for these type of plastic parts. Not sure how good it would look compared to the wet wet but be worth a try.
Doug, since clear coat from a spray can tends not to have as much orange peel perhaps use a finer sandpaper instead of the heavy grit paper your using try 3M Trizact foam pad part#3M30662. Your finish will be WET WET WET WET!!!!
There is also some stuff called Pro max 1k acrylic clear..... it works excellent over other rattle can stuff..... you can get a 2k version to. If you go 2k the can lasts about 24 hours
yes use your THUMB technique to lay the primer & paint
and those curves on box are 😍
raptor on the amp rack would be cool
Doug avoid the edges when sanding they will buff leave material there!!! Love the vids.
There's nothing wrong with the rattle can method. It does take time though. I'll share a pic of a set of wheels I did a while back in duplicolor dual color and clear. They turned out okay and the Scout's on auction now for $40k.
Meguiar's m205 and m105 is an awesome 2 step cutting compound/final polish that works awesome on base clear paint. Not sure how it will work on the rattle can clear. Otherwise 3m ultrafina works really well as a final polish also.
Nice job Doug, I think your better off with the rattle can, I've been doing it like this for a couple of years now with no problems with the cans, but I think there would be to much waste with a paint gun, just my thought
mark bennett right ~ because u can save rattlers!
You know you're doing something right when your sponsors list lasts longer than the video 😛
Bro, invest in a sata minijet or equivalent. Do you a couple test pieces and you'll be rockin stuff out in no time. It's excellent for small pieces and doesn't use much material.
Hey doug
If you lay your sub box on its back so the tubes are facing up it looks like the Titanic before it sunk
Doug I have a challenge for you - Build a ported 2x JL 8W7 sub box that can fit behind the seats of a Tacoma double cab. I have the space ready and a box built but yes my box is 1 inch to big and now I gotta rework it.
Hey Dougie, I don't know if you ever thought about it, but you should pick up a touch up gun and spray base clear out of it. Save you tons of money and you can get any color mixed for you. 😇.
But for real look up kevin tetz, he's makes a ton of instructional videos about painting and pretty soon you'll be carrying around a towel cause that shit be so wet. 💦💦 the benefits will be from the better atomization so it'll lay flatter and won't take much at all the get that mirror finish. 1 tac 2 wet
Hey Doug you need to use "Bung hole fittings" in your box!!!!!
What kind of plastic can I use to do a dash modification? I need to make a 2D curve so I'd need to heat gun it to shape but it would have to hold up to summer baking heat. I might just use carbon/fiberglass but I like the idea of some poly/abs so I can use some epoxies to bond it to some framing.
Check out mini sata or mini pps cups... and get yourself a good quality detail gun...
Did you bedline the table in the beginning? Or am I just now noticing it. Also, Doug have you seen the video on Line-x put out by veritasium? Very impressive.
JR Loves Satellite radio.
Looks pretty good!
Doug now you have to change your "SoundmanCA splash screen" @15:44 from the primered to the finished wet wet dash panel...so get your thumb out and get to that picture taking and editing!!!
+SoundmanCA
I used to make a ton of dash panels and never made the jump to a full HVLP spray setup. Gloss and clear coats were always tough, but I came across this stuff which made it a lot easier:
www.spraymax.com/en/products/product/clear-coats-and-spot-blender/2k-clear-coat/
They have a couple different versions. It's color sandable and UV resistant. It's a 2 part paint, so it has a pot life once you pop the can to mix it. They have smaller and larger cans depending on your project size. The adjustable fat-caps give you awesome control over your fan, too.
I thought it was Rafa's famous rattle can technique ?
Big up's to Rafa for reppin the wet wet !
lots of thin coats wet sanding in between and use a tack rag to prep before painting especially the final coat
Stop sanding back and forth and do circles like Rafa said. Stop using 800 grit and use 2000 like Rafa said.
Acrylic lacquer doesn't have very good durability (uv light will break it down fast) and will scratch and chip easy .Check out either summit or eastwood they have a urethane clear that takes an activator in a spray can. You just break the seal and shake the can to mix. It will wet sand and buff like glass and will hold up to heavy uv break down found in a car in a sunny environment. A much stronger product and easy to spray
All hail the return of the squeeky water bottle! It's all about that squeeky wet wet!
Good try with dup color . Lol clear but there’s not enough solids in the clear it’s too thin might I suggest you run down to the local auto body shop and pick up U Pol or bumper clear in a raddled can something with thicker solids with the bumper clear at least you have the flexibility on the trim pieces so it won’t crack on you when you Whip it in place.
If you still gonna stick with meguiars line of products. Then switch to M100 or M105 for cutting compound. After that finshed it off with M205 polish, then top it off with your favorite wax .
Do the ceramic coating after all is done,that will bring out all the wet wet.
Great Video Douglas
Try 2k pro clear by pro xl and epoxy paint.
Wet wet city up in this piece
"I REP WETNESS!" lol
Hey Doug U should get the clear in a spray can that has the hardner release the only thing the can only last 24hrs but its a better clear and thicker then what u guys r using.. and believe it or not since your not spraying a car is not that hard to spray clear out of gun even with harbor freight gun think about it
Just curious.....why not black gloss paint? That way you wont sand through the clear.
Im sure you have perfected your combo by know though lol
Fisheye is grease/oil.
Rattle can is far more likely to react when repainted, you don't need 2k clear either to spray from a gun you can use single pack lacquer and paint just like you are now only the gun will give a better spray atomisation and more predictable spray pattern.
Need to update soundman splash screen with the wetness!
They have a 2k aerosol clear. I heard its not bad.
Getting better with the wet wet
My Dude Doug E Bernard Super Genius @ 15:15 I may have imagined I saw a micro scratch!🤔🤣 lol Its looking good my Dude Stay Easy bruh
"I rep wetness" shirts coming soon...
Completely avoid sanding the edges because by the time you sand and polish that thing you will have nothing left. We used to mask the edges of the cars we were working on, moving the tape after every step of sanding to blend nicely.
Get that Wet Wet with the Squeak Squeak!
The dark line is called a shadow Doug!!!
Doug give Meguiars M105 a shot. It is a true cutting compound. Not a polish.
I guess today was a slow day, there were no customers today. Probably because the electronic spark from the door chime mixed with the fumes from the rattle cans could ignite the 🔥🔥💥💥💥🤣🤣
Doug, you need to go to better rattle can clear. You need to get the Bruce Jenner Clear.......Transtar jammin’ clear....... it can be wet sanded if sprayed correct.