I worked in the oilfeild for some time, in a blast/paint yard. A zinc primer and a polyurethane would've given you a scratch resistant surface. We used this on x- rigg, mud gas separators, mud pumps, fracking equipment, shakers, pipe, ect.... polyurethane when it dries becomes like rubber and the zinc primer absords into the metal and zinc is a metal so it gives it an extra barrier of protection. Most oil field equipment is painted using these products. Polyglass is one company we use, international (which sells marine grade paints), intercoastal is another one.
I've used the raptor liner, if you use your "fogging" painting technique it will come out rough and sandy feeling, if you lay it on heavy it will lay flatter and Lower air pressure will also lay it on a little thicker
Doug you probably already know about this, but if not then here u go. There are plenty of DIY powder coating systems you can buy for kind of cheap(couple hundo). I know ur testing these other paints and stuff out because u like to do it urself. A lil powdercoating system in ur shop would be a great addition. Just need a oven or something to cure it. Thrift shop lil oven might work? Idk just throwin out some ideas.
I came to tell you that you needed the UV protection of the top coat for the por15 rust preventative paint. It won't keep that wet wet look when UV hits it.
Oh Doug, before I forget, I've been trying new techniques out.... 1. On MDF I've been using a method I've seen you use, take ultra bond and shmear it over MDF like a sealer and it self levels almost perfect. I use valspar flat black( the 3 dollah no holla cans) and it comes out perfect all velvety smooth oh its nice , feels like fine sued ( sway-d) 2. You want the wetness? Valspar also has a line called beach glass, it works like a candy coat, then hit it with there glass clear.... Get ready for some depth....base coat, beach glass then glass clear , shiz looks like its two feet thick.
Raptor liner texture is dependent on the pressure you spray at -lower pressure get a non slip abrasive surface - higher pressure gets a orange peel texture - hope this helps - I’ve done 6 trucks - it’s been a great project
You were skeptical...but i knew as soon as you hit that metal with the POR 15 you would love it. Shit is HORRIBLE to clean off of stuff though! Gloves and cover all your work areas each time you open that can. Also...make sure you seal the can up well. I like to use some plastic wrap under the lid, because it will cure in its own can.
Doug that por15 on the amp rack is a tough coating but its made to be an under coating and will fade real bad in sun and look like shit. Thats why they have the coating you can spray on top. Just a heads up
the regular por 15 is really strong. Don't get it on your hands. Also it isn't uv protected so they recommend a top coat of paint or it will fade. Once you open the can of por 15 it starts to cure even though it's still in the can.
If you want an alternative to powder coat you should look into Endura paints. We use it on underground mine vehicles and it withstands chipping and scratches really well. Its a 2 part paint that you spray.
I've used the Por 15 paint on truck frames. I can verify that it's some tough shit. I've used the Raptor truck bedliner for it's intended purpose, it looks nice and is easily repairable. If I remember correctly I had a hard time getting it to have texture, it kept coming out smooth. I would use the Por 15 for the amp rack and the Raptor for the speaker box.
doug i've used por15 on every car resto one thing about por15 left alone it is not uv proof should be over sprayed with a top spray it seals all rust perfect for noe 12 years in use a fantastic product
Hi Doug, I sell alot of UPOL Raptor over here in the UK. You can achieve any finish you want with Raptor and still achieve that tough durable finish you come to expect from the product. You can run the raptor down with thinners and apply it through a Primer Gun for that clean smooth finish :) Hope this helps Ryan Smith Car Audio
regarding the amp rack, I have to agree with those advocating automotive paint. Other than powder coat or anodizing, it is more durable (UV and impact resistant) than any of those rattle can products. Although, I believe you can buy actual automotive grade paint in rattle cans.
Doug check out the rustoleum bed liner from Walmart. Used it on my flat wall and sounds like exactly what your looking for. 30 or 40 a gallon. Small texture and smooth.
Curious to see the comments on the "Waiting for Paint to dry episode" That being said, to make it look good, you gotta wait for results. Glad you are taking the time to figure out which will work best. Can't wait to see the next steps on the box! Its gonna bump!
This is the best video you have put out in awhile. Clear concise content, minimal dipshitery, and no over use of explosions/horns/10hp effects. I hope this video reflects what is to come!
POR-15 is UV sensitive. You're supposed to put a top coat over it if it's going to be exposed to sun light frequently. Most guys spray over it even on frames and such under the car. So, it's up to you if you want to run the risk on your amp rack. Also FYI... I'm almost dead certain the POR-15 cleaner is just Simple Green. They even recommend you cut it at least 1:1 with water. I did the floor pans in my truck with the same POR-15 kit and used up all the cleaner on one side and just used SG on the other. No difference in results or durability.
I'm not sure what descaler smells like, but what I got in my kit smelled and looked EXACTLY like Simple Green... I suppose I should have tasted it to double check.
POR actually claims the product is alkaline. I would say that Simple Green does smell a good bit like anti-freeze (but with more "bite" in the nostrils?) though so I'd call that another parallel. My bigger point here was to say that Simple Green works absolutely as well as the stuff in the kit and I couldn't tell any difference in the products or results. So, if he runs out or simply like the results of the POR product, try some SG for _way_ less money.
Yo Doug, you want your amp rack to lay flat and perfect, prime it and wet sand your primer just like your dash. My buddy sprays raptor lining all the time, not the greatest bed liner cause it's less durable than most and slippery as rafas madres butt crack after a 4hr car ride on leather seats with no a/c. For what you want tho, lay it on thick and heavy to let the paint self level as it dries. You could always try to spray that por15 to get a smoother flatter finish.
Try rust proof by Martin senour. Carried at napa. An industrial epoxy paint. Flake resistant, uv proof, can be sprayed, rolled or brushed. Self leveling as well. Designed for inside chemical tanks and farm equipment.
I've literally had a piece of rusted metal be hit with a welding slap hammer, bent, and had pure acetone sit on it for 24hours. Didn't flake, chip, crack, or fade
I really like POR15. Nothing paints imperfect cast metal parts like it. Makes diff's and gearboxes look so good. That shit sticks so well. Its almost like plastic
Dont spray it though. Its super bad for your lungs. That metal prep is just zinc / phosphoric acid to etch the metal to make it less likely to rust. But yeh 100% go with the POR15 metal paint. I painted the underside of my rusty ass car and it looks like new now.
Great show Doug. I appreciate you showing the POR15. I heard it was good but haven't used it yet. I do use the Rust-Oleum product line and they also have the hammered paint that sprays flat and stays wet wet. I've used it for years now and it is very durable. Love your channel bro keep up the shenanigans!
If you want smoother bedliner you adjust the PSI higher, lower PSI gives you thicker blotchier clumps.. the finer the spray the finer the finished product..
whenever i paint, i was told by a CAR PAINTER to always buy the appliance paint version of it cause it is more of a epoxy paint and holds and last a really long time. i painted forks on my harley like 6 years ago and the shit still looks brand new. remember if you see it on the inter webs, IT HAS TO BE TRUE.
Watching paint dry, scraping the bottom of the barrel huh? Just kidding Doug, great comparison. Not trying to be another statistic... Keep them coming!
Great info. That Raptor looks the best. But, the one looks weird.... Almost like it's like a thin wood grain. Not a fan of that one at all. Have you thought of a hammered look in like gray/gun metal? I can't remember if your floor carpet of the truck was was black or not.
If you're gonna use Raptor I hope you sparayed it at the same time you filmed this episode, if not you just wasted a whole bottle just for a couple of test scraps. Once you dump hardener in there, if you let it sit for just an hour it doesn't spray as smooth, a little longer than that and it's in the trash bin it goes. Should've just poured out 1/4 of the bottle, would've been plenty for test samples.
I think the other spray paints didn't get a fair trial. They seemed to fisheye likely because you didn't rough them with sandpaper or because they got oversprayed by each other
Yo Doug, long time fan, I really appreciate this vid and you for experimenting with the different rust treatments/finishes and now I know what I'm using for my upcoming project! Saved me lots of time. Stay classy my dude
Definitely like the way the por 15 paint lays down. Doubt camera is doing it justice but looks smooth and hella glossy! Question, is that por 15 rust prevention paint easy to apply with brush and not have the brush strokes? Seemed like you had very little with the foam applicator paint brush. Just curious thanks for the awesome upload!
Wow! Doug, I learned a thing or two today. This is a win, you tried some things and tested what you needed .....I mean I knew the por15 was gonna win for the metal, its a metal sealer! But that raptor spray turned out nice, like ...noy-ice!!!! I think I'm going to use that on my twin tube in a tube ported enclosures . that may also work on the inside to, is the raptor have like a grippy kinda rubbery give when compressed? If so it may work as a good damper.
Dude, i´m telling you... Por15 is the Shit. TopCoat is like a normal Paint but a bit more rust preventive. Por15 wouldnt get scratched or chipped, i tested it all out... put some of it on rusted metal. it sticks to it and you cant get it of with a screwdriver or "break" the paint with a hammer. We put 3 layers of Por15 on sand blasted Metal and 1 layer of TopCoat for a better "finish with a Paint Gun. Love this Products.
I doubt his amp rack is going to fit in his oven at home... I personally think powder is over rated too. Seems to chip just as easily as paint and you can't sand it and touch it up.
I'm sure you "can" do it, but on a part that big you'd have to have enough heat lamps that you'd literally be making your own oven or trying to cure it in small sections, which I just don't see working out well. I'd probably just pay a pro shop to do it. Most shops do so much black that they can just "throw in" small jobs like that for not much money.
When you were talking about what your got do about the box square and cubic feet I was waiting for you to say but a square is a cube which is a box then that you off down yonder you do that kills me every time
My TOYOTA TUNDRA came with LINEX BRAND spray in 15years later it's still there -looks way rougher than that but also more dense with gritty ness.... it's surprisingly smooth though - not rubbery at all .... & I used a small 9" BBQ I got for free from a casino and it melted the LINEX off in a small area on the tail gate- I used 35 grit then 60 grit & cleaned it then used duplicolor armor series truck bed coating on it - it blended so well I cant tell where I fixed it 6 years ago! But ima try that kit u got mabey if you like the spray on- I'm not a fan of roll on shit < that shits for houses- lol>
Did you just say nigga? Wtf Doug
+Dat Tepo no! I said Migga! Rafa's dad is Mexican .. I would never say the N word
SoundmanCA lol
Dat Tepo who cares if he did, were not racist here, nore is he. no panny bunches allowed.
Dat Tepo well you said it! I'm jus say as someone who says Nicca alot I heard Doug say. . . lol Migga 🤣👍🏿
john martin not for me I personally don't care.. I was a little shocked.. i was just concerned about the brown brothas
To get that smooth Raptor finish, you will need to hump every bottle that you activate for at least 5 minutes
Hey Doug. The POR15 on metal alone is not sunlight stable so hit it with the top coat afterwards
I worked in the oilfeild for some time, in a blast/paint yard. A zinc primer and a polyurethane would've given you a scratch resistant surface. We used this on x- rigg, mud gas separators, mud pumps, fracking equipment, shakers, pipe, ect.... polyurethane when it dries becomes like rubber and the zinc primer absords into the metal and zinc is a metal so it gives it an extra barrier of protection. Most oil field equipment is painted using these products. Polyglass is one company we use, international (which sells marine grade paints), intercoastal is another one.
I've used the raptor liner, if you use your "fogging" painting technique it will come out rough and sandy feeling, if you lay it on heavy it will lay flatter and Lower air pressure will also lay it on a little thicker
I'm sure someone has said this already, but I believe to get the best out of the por15 on metal you need a rusty or "seasoned" surface.
Hey with that POR15 I strongly recommend you lay a sandwich bag between the lid and can whenever you close it.
Old School freestyle music.....nice
Doug you probably already know about this, but if not then here u go. There are plenty of DIY powder coating systems you can buy for kind of cheap(couple hundo). I know ur testing these other paints and stuff out because u like to do it urself. A lil powdercoating system in ur shop would be a great addition. Just need a oven or something to cure it. Thrift shop lil oven might work? Idk just throwin out some ideas.
I don't know if I've mentioned this before, but the music in your vids alone makes me watch. When I hear music it makes me dance.
I came to tell you that you needed the UV protection of the top coat for the por15 rust preventative paint. It won't keep that wet wet look when UV hits it.
Oh Doug, before I forget, I've been trying new techniques out....
1. On MDF I've been using a method I've seen you use, take ultra bond and shmear it over MDF like a sealer and it self levels almost perfect. I use valspar flat black( the 3 dollah no holla cans) and it comes out perfect all velvety smooth oh its nice , feels like fine sued ( sway-d) 2. You want the wetness? Valspar also has a line called beach glass, it works like a candy coat, then hit it with there glass clear.... Get ready for some depth....base coat, beach glass then glass clear , shiz looks like its two feet thick.
Raptor liner texture is dependent on the pressure you spray at -lower pressure get a non slip abrasive surface - higher pressure gets a orange peel texture - hope this helps - I’ve done 6 trucks - it’s been a great project
Thank you for doing the research. I will be buying these for my own project. These companies should sponsor you.
You were skeptical...but i knew as soon as you hit that metal with the POR 15 you would love it. Shit is HORRIBLE to clean off of stuff though! Gloves and cover all your work areas each time you open that can. Also...make sure you seal the can up well. I like to use some plastic wrap under the lid, because it will cure in its own can.
Doug I have a friend that painted his whole suburban on the Raptor Liner and I was amazed at how well it turned out.
Doug that por15 on the amp rack is a tough coating but its made to be an under coating and will fade real bad in sun and look like shit. Thats why they have the coating you can spray on top. Just a heads up
the regular por 15 is really strong. Don't get it on your hands. Also it isn't uv protected so they recommend a top coat of paint or it will fade. Once you open the can of por 15 it starts to cure even though it's still in the can.
If you want an alternative to powder coat you should look into Endura paints. We use it on underground mine vehicles and it withstands chipping and scratches really well. Its a 2 part paint that you spray.
"I'm not a bed liner scientist" Are you sure? You started the video with a science project. Good stuff.
Doug, Raptor your Truck bed before installing your box. I sprayed my F150 with Raptor It looks really good when done.
I've used the Por 15 paint on truck frames. I can verify that it's some tough shit. I've used the Raptor truck bedliner for it's intended purpose, it looks nice and is easily repairable. If I remember correctly I had a hard time getting it to have texture, it kept coming out smooth. I would use the Por 15 for the amp rack and the Raptor for the speaker box.
doug i've used por15 on every car resto
one thing about por15 left alone it is not uv proof
should be over sprayed with a top spray
it seals all rust perfect for noe 12 years in use
a fantastic product
POR15 is a great sealer, I think you'll be happy with the amp rack in POR15.
the 80s music bring back hella memories especially the freestyle
Hi Doug,
I sell alot of UPOL Raptor over here in the UK. You can achieve any finish you want with Raptor and still achieve that tough durable finish you come to expect from the product.
You can run the raptor down with thinners and apply it through a Primer Gun for that clean smooth finish :)
Hope this helps
Ryan
Smith Car Audio
Doug all your videos are the shit! I don't even own a car stereo and I still watch every day. Haha. Don't change a thing 👍🏾
regarding the amp rack, I have to agree with those advocating automotive paint. Other than powder coat or anodizing, it is more durable (UV and impact resistant) than any of those rattle can products. Although, I believe you can buy actual automotive grade paint in rattle cans.
Doug check out the rustoleum bed liner from Walmart. Used it on my flat wall and sounds like exactly what your looking for. 30 or 40 a gallon. Small texture and smooth.
Curious to see the comments on the "Waiting for Paint to dry episode" That being said, to make it look good, you gotta wait for results. Glad you are taking the time to figure out which will work best. Can't wait to see the next steps on the box! Its gonna bump!
This is the best video you have put out in awhile. Clear concise content, minimal dipshitery, and no over use of explosions/horns/10hp effects. I hope this video reflects what is to come!
You can buy hammertone in a pint or a gallon size also and spray it yourself. It is available in different colors also satin or matte finish
I have sprayed alot of bedliners, the texture is in the application
POR-15 (the paint) needs rust to work best. I've had it peel in big sheets off of cleaned and prepped steel.
POR-15 is UV sensitive. You're supposed to put a top coat over it if it's going to be exposed to sun light frequently. Most guys spray over it even on frames and such under the car. So, it's up to you if you want to run the risk on your amp rack.
Also FYI... I'm almost dead certain the POR-15 cleaner is just Simple Green. They even recommend you cut it at least 1:1 with water. I did the floor pans in my truck with the same POR-15 kit and used up all the cleaner on one side and just used SG on the other. No difference in results or durability.
+Maxwelhse it smells like descaler
I'm not sure what descaler smells like, but what I got in my kit smelled and looked EXACTLY like Simple Green... I suppose I should have tasted it to double check.
Maxwelhse, descaler almost smells like radiator fluid but more nasty. It's probably acidic.
POR actually claims the product is alkaline. I would say that Simple Green does smell a good bit like anti-freeze (but with more "bite" in the nostrils?) though so I'd call that another parallel.
My bigger point here was to say that Simple Green works absolutely as well as the stuff in the kit and I couldn't tell any difference in the products or results. So, if he runs out or simply like the results of the POR product, try some SG for _way_ less money.
Doug, you should hit that POR15 sample with a hammer to see if it chips. I'd like to see exactly how tough it is. Great episode, as always.
steve meade has done it on his subbox with the 2 pride subwoofers in it it looks verry cool, 2 bad you cant buy the stuff in holland great vids .
Yo Doug, you want your amp rack to lay flat and perfect, prime it and wet sand your primer just like your dash. My buddy sprays raptor lining all the time, not the greatest bed liner cause it's less durable than most and slippery as rafas madres butt crack after a 4hr car ride on leather seats with no a/c. For what you want tho, lay it on thick and heavy to let the paint self level as it dries. You could always try to spray that por15 to get a smoother flatter finish.
I have been using gloss black with flex seal rubber paint as an over texture. its soft to the touch and looks good
Kris Garner and you can use your bed to float down the river
Try rust proof by Martin senour. Carried at napa. An industrial epoxy paint. Flake resistant, uv proof, can be sprayed, rolled or brushed. Self leveling as well. Designed for inside chemical tanks and farm equipment.
I've literally had a piece of rusted metal be hit with a welding slap hammer, bent, and had pure acetone sit on it for 24hours. Didn't flake, chip, crack, or fade
You might also check out "Monstaliner". Similar finish as Raptor, but they have COLORS!
Thumbs up for those EXPLOSIONS!
Raptor liner is tough stuff and sticks to everything but will be a textured finish.
I think sealing it with sun flash and then raptor liner is what I would do on the box
The Rapter is the best, I have it on my box. If you are going to lay down more than 1 coat let it set overnight before adding another coat.
SPEAKER CABINET COATING - DURATEX® is good stuff for wood I have used it on many speakers for car or home.
it's all about that Prep Prep Doug
I really like POR15. Nothing paints imperfect cast metal parts like it. Makes diff's and gearboxes look so good. That shit sticks so well. Its almost like plastic
Dont spray it though. Its super bad for your lungs. That metal prep is just zinc / phosphoric acid to etch the metal to make it less likely to rust.
But yeh 100% go with the POR15 metal paint. I painted the underside of my rusty ass car and it looks like new now.
Great show Doug. I appreciate you showing the POR15. I heard it was good but haven't used it yet. I do use the Rust-Oleum product line and they also have the hammered paint that sprays flat and stays wet wet. I've used it for years now and it is very durable.
Love your channel bro keep up the shenanigans!
If you want smoother bedliner you adjust the PSI higher, lower PSI gives you thicker blotchier clumps.. the finer the spray the finer the finished product..
Doug, you make my day!!
whenever i paint, i was told by a CAR PAINTER to always buy the appliance paint version of it cause it is more of a epoxy paint and holds and last a really long time. i painted forks on my harley like 6 years ago and the shit still looks brand new. remember if you see it on the inter webs, IT HAS TO BE TRUE.
Watching paint dry, scraping the bottom of the barrel huh? Just kidding Doug, great comparison. Not trying to be another statistic... Keep them coming!
Doug, I used Rust Oleum Bedliner and it has a great sandpaper texture.
Great info. That Raptor looks the best. But, the one looks weird.... Almost like it's like a thin wood grain. Not a fan of that one at all.
Have you thought of a hammered look in like gray/gun metal? I can't remember if your floor carpet of the truck was was black or not.
Once you open bedliner you need to use it pretty quick it likes to harden up like within a day or so
i know your probably going with the black but you can pigment the clear raptor to what ever color you want just fyi
enough with the rattle cans. get a hvlp gun already and spray real product.
michele vitarelli they are spraying small shit not cars, cans are cheap, and do a great job, obviously.
Looks great will have to try that Raptor Liner
If you're gonna use Raptor I hope you sparayed it at the same time you filmed this episode, if not you just wasted a whole bottle just for a couple of test scraps. Once you dump hardener in there, if you let it sit for just an hour it doesn't spray as smooth, a little longer than that and it's in the trash bin it goes. Should've just poured out 1/4 of the bottle, would've been plenty for test samples.
That POR 15 is more like trunk liner rather , than bed liner my opinion
I like the por15 I used it on my engine work great steve meade likes that raptor bed liner
If you want the hammered look to be as nice as the mule frame...you need to oil cycle it about 100x. 😁
KBS has some nice coatings, you should check it out...
I used the raptor spray on for my blow through box it turned out really nice.
Hows it holding up??
Nice. I was interested in the difference between these products. Love the wet wet!
I think the other spray paints didn't get a fair trial. They seemed to fisheye likely because you didn't rough them with sandpaper or because they got oversprayed by each other
+Destiny is Life the "Rustolium hammered finish" has an orange peel look by design.
Not sure if anyone has already mentioned this but UPOL makes a tintable version of the Raptor bedliner kit the color choices are infinite.
morning Doug can you pull the blue tape to show the thickness of product that rafas mom left behind
Yo Doug, long time fan, I really appreciate this vid and you for experimenting with the different rust treatments/finishes and now I know what I'm using for my upcoming project! Saved me lots of time. Stay classy my dude
In finland some use raptor as car paint. It is like trend that you paint whole car with raptor.
Definitely like the way the por 15 paint lays down. Doubt camera is doing it justice but looks smooth and hella glossy! Question, is that por 15 rust prevention paint easy to apply with brush and not have the brush strokes? Seemed like you had very little with the foam applicator paint brush. Just curious thanks for the awesome upload!
i would use the raptor steve meade used it on the pride audio box came out very good
Wet wet and glossy smooth !!
the raptor liner is dope
The Raptor definitely
SC GAMING you can dilute it and use a proper gun and get a smoother finish. Also hold the gun closer or farther to make it more or less lumpy.
All talky no scratchy I feel cheated. Really interested in how por15 is workin.
in my opinion the little can & raptor 👍👍👍
herculiner seems to have a more rubbery texture that might scratch less
Good mooooourning peeps!!!!! Yoooo Doug
If you want it smooth and glossy why not use a colored epoxy
wipe everything down with a tack cloth just before laying paint. it will reduce those dust particles in your finish.
Rust olem ect
Is zick based so it wont chip but any thing over the top may
19 min video... Thanks Doug .... Oh shit that's said tomorrow video is going to be one min long.. Again thanks Doug ...
try spraying the por 15 paint with a gun or a preval sprayer to see the results
Wow! Doug, I learned a thing or two today. This is a win, you tried some things and tested what you needed .....I mean I knew the por15 was gonna win for the metal, its a metal sealer! But that raptor spray turned out nice, like ...noy-ice!!!!
I think I'm going to use that on my twin tube in a tube ported enclosures . that may also work on the inside to, is the raptor have like a grippy kinda rubbery give when compressed? If so it may work as a good damper.
Great episode, needed one like this.
Dude, i´m telling you... Por15 is the Shit.
TopCoat is like a normal Paint but a bit more rust preventive.
Por15 wouldnt get scratched or chipped, i tested it all out... put some of it on rusted metal. it sticks to it and you cant get it of with a screwdriver or "break" the paint with a hammer.
We put 3 layers of Por15 on sand blasted Metal and 1 layer of TopCoat for a better "finish with a Paint Gun.
Love this Products.
nice work doug
Eastwood company makes a powder coat gun you can use right in your shop. Spray and bake.
Jason Cullum so does Harbor Freight
I doubt his amp rack is going to fit in his oven at home...
I personally think powder is over rated too. Seems to chip just as easily as paint and you can't sand it and touch it up.
Parts can also be cured with a heat lamp
I'm sure you "can" do it, but on a part that big you'd have to have enough heat lamps that you'd literally be making your own oven or trying to cure it in small sections, which I just don't see working out well.
I'd probably just pay a pro shop to do it. Most shops do so much black that they can just "throw in" small jobs like that for not much money.
Maxwelhse powder is much more chip resistant than paint. you can touch up powder coating too.
Raptor is the sh*t! Used it several times and no issues.
Doug....If you ship that rack out to NC I'd be more than happy to powder coat it for free.
When you were talking about what your got do about the box square and cubic feet I was waiting for you to say but a square is a cube which is a box then that you off down yonder you do that kills me every time
My TOYOTA TUNDRA came with LINEX BRAND spray in 15years later it's still there -looks way rougher than that but also more dense with gritty ness.... it's surprisingly smooth though - not rubbery at all ....
& I used a small 9" BBQ I got for free from a casino and it melted the LINEX off in a small area on the tail gate- I used 35 grit then 60 grit & cleaned it then used duplicolor armor series truck bed coating on it - it blended so well I cant tell where I fixed it 6 years ago!
But ima try that kit u got mabey if you like the spray on- I'm not a fan of roll on shit < that shits for houses- lol>
por 15 is some intense shit. super strong when done right
Great paint
Ebay is that little jingle that is always playing from?
Doug loving that Cynthia change on me song at the end Freestyle forever.
I'm not a bed liner scientist! No chip man. Rafa's moms toenail polish!!!!!
I've worked with that paint. It's so strong your rack is gonna twist.