DIY Fireplace Installation - Flexible Direct Vent
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- Опубліковано 16 жов 2024
- In this video, I start my DIY Fireplace by installing a flexible direct vent system through the wall behind the fireplace.
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The fireplace shown in this video is an Empire Tahoe Luxury model provided by eFireplaceStore to demonstrate the installation process. Check them out at handydad.tv/efps.
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When you installed the termination cap, the siding should have been cut to the outside of it and it should have been installed on the sheathing/fire-stop and finished with J- channel not over the siding. You now have a fire hazard because your combustible siding is only 1" from the the top of the flex vent and not 3" per manufactures specs. See video time 6:25. I would also recommend using a high temperature silicone/caulk where the flex vent penetrates the metal fire-stop to stop any air filtration after you have the flex connected to the fireplace.
Nice job HandyDad!
Thank you for this. About to start a new fireplace install and this helped. Keep it up, enjoy the day.
My pleasure. Glad it helped.
Loved the flying hat!
Thankfully I found it!
Great walkthrough, thanks!
Thanks 😊
You could rent a roto-hammer and knock some of that block out, if the structure allows. But having the fireplace in the room is nice too. I always enjoy your videos - you could narrate for a living.
Also, the term “rat slab” refers to a thin layer of concrete in basements to keep rodents out.
nice video. very innnovative, as are all your videos. Merry Christmas!
Thanks! Merry Christmas to you too!
So the vent pipe basically requires no other fireproofing but it's own spacing? Asking especially about the wall where it goes out.
Great video! Cutting an enormous hole in the side of your house can be nerve wracking thing!
Oh you betcha
Would I be able to do this with an old laundry opening?
You’d need to make it bigger.
thanks for replying 4 years after the video was made. lol @@handydadtv
what is the diameter of the hole needed on the wall? i will have a concrete wall so needed dimensions?
I believe it was 7 inches, but I needed to go bigger because I was going through combustible materials. You should download the manual and specs for your kit to confirm.
I liked the explanations and details. I’m doing this at my house soon!
😊👍🏻💯
@HandyDadTV, is it necessary to caulk/seal around the edges of the vent on the exterior of the house? I have a brick exterior and I see small openings around the edges of the vent and wall surface. I am wondering if I should seal these off.
I didn't see no high heat silicone used for sealing your connection s
Should the exhaust vent be a little further out from your chimmney chase so it does not melt your siding. Looks pretty close.
A deflector is installed on top that keeps the heat away from the siding.
I thought you were to cut the siding around the perimeter of the outside distribution cap, then trim with j channel. Have you had any water issues?
I haven’t had any water issues but J-channel is a good idea!
What is this style of venting off the side rather than above the roof. Side would work better for me
Through the wall is called Direct Vent.
What exactly is Cinder Block ? I saw Bricks.
What make and model is that fire place
Info in the description.
Where did you get your installation kit?
I got the fireplace and all the installation items from eFireplaceStore
Allowed to connect flexible pipe to the rigid SLP pipe?
Ask your dealer or eFireplaceStore.com
Do you have to silicon the exhaust and fresh air?
Yes but only for the connections inside the house.
@@handydadtv why the fresh air?
I followed the instructions 🤷🏻♂️
You guys are gonna have issues with the vent clamp leaking exhaust, always use a sealant to prevent that
I followed the directions.
Need high heat silicone
Did this recently and my outside duct work gets insanely hot. You said the smaller (inside) duct work should get hot and not the larger. Have I not sealed the inside smaller pipe properly?
I didn’t test the temperature before the walls were closed so I can’t say for sure how hot my outer pipe gets. But it stands to reason, with it being insulated by an inch of cool air being sucked in from outside, the outer pipe shouldn’t get very hot. Maybe a professional installer can respond. Perhaps call the manufacturer as well. But don’t close the wall if you have any doubt that the inner pipe may not have sealed correctly!
Thank you. Love the video. Where did you buy the flexible duct work?
It was a kit from the fireplace manufacturer. handydad.tv/efps
The top of the outside pipe/flex will get hot "heat rises", sometimes hot enough you cant touch it. Especially at the point where it goes from vertical to horizontal. That is why there is a 3" clearance to the top and 1" to the sides and bottom. I dont suspect your inner flue is not sealed correctly because this would cause flue gases to mix and create improper combustion within the firebox which would most likely cause the flame to extinguish do to lack of oxygen.
@@handydadtv Love the video! I'm having a hard time finding that exact type of flexible vent kit? I ordered a length of flexible pipe and it seems to be incompatible with the 4" x 6-5/8" collar on my fireplace. The flexible vent is 7" on the outside instead of 6-5/8". You briefly showed an adapter of some sort in the video? Please help!
??? for all. My house has a a water view in my living room with 32 x 79 windows on each side of our Gas fireplace. We have 12 ft ceilings. Now that you have the picture somewhat the problem we have is the view is being killed because of fireplace in middle. there is chimney box in the outside that goes up then and sticks out like the one in this video. Finally my question is can I get rid of it and keep fireplace as is but have hot air go out lower this way I can put a big window above fire place. Water view windows will extend up as the 12 ft ceiling will give a nice opening view it deserves. Anyone, especially Handy DadTV?? Thank you in advance
It sounds like the view is more important than the fireplace to you. Makes sense; you can enjoy the view all year round, but the fireplace only in the winter.
I think you should consider moving, or REmoving, the fireplace. I don’t like the idea of a window above the fireplace.
Why not tie into the existing chimney?
I capped the chimney when I removed the wood burning fireplace 15 years ago. Plus, my new fireplace was designed for Direct Vent. If you want to pipe up a chimney, look for a B-vent fireplace.
The fireplace he is installing is a direct vent fireplace. It exchanges no air within the living space, but pulls combustion air from the outside between the the inner and outer pipes and exhausts through the inner pipe. The unit is sealed with a solid pc. of glass over the front of the fireplace usually with gasket of some sort. The heat it produces stays in the room. The existing chimney is from a old wood burning fireplace and is strictly exhaust. As it burns it gets oxygen from the room, and may have a outside air kit attached to it which will bring additional air from the outside kind of like a dryer vent, but it draws air instead of exhausting air. The two systems are incompatible and would not work together. Apples and Oranges! I would recommend HandyDad remove the existing old chimney sections before whatevers holding it up fails and the system crashes down on top of his new gas fireplace, IMO.
HandyDadTV how did you cap your old chase
Cover? I’m pretty much doing exactly what you are, removing old wood stove and venting horizontally out of the chase. I noticed a slight leak from my chase cover during heavy rains and stainless chase covers are expensive! Is that what you used to close it up? Also- do you noticed a lot steam coming off your termination cap on cold days? My chase is facing my neighbors house and I’m worried that she’ll think my house is on fire hahaha. Please help a fellow NJ guy! Thanks bud
I brought the dimensions to a sheet metal place and they fabricated the cap from heavy gauge stainless steel with welded corners. I think it was around $200 but it’ll last forever.
HandyDadTV thanks brother
In hindsight, spray foam is quite flammable.
It’s nowhere near the heat.
ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES WHEN WORKING WITH METAL.
Shame he didn’t make good use of the existing chimney all because some cylinder blocks were in the way. Just remove the cylinder blocks
Those buggers are gonna easily chew through the hardened spray foam.
Copper mesh will keep the mice out. They won't chew threw it.
I now have a fear that my fireplace doesn’t have that barrier and there’s an adult draft around the chimney.
I get a professional opinion before using it. I wouldn’t be able to sleep at night.
Sloppy, if you think the mice can't get through the spray foam you shouldn't be doing any home improvements
I put concrete in the big gaps.
That’s wired I work for JM
Nobody cares about the damn mouse dude
I did!