ya know ive done much larger jobs but this is something i didn't know how to properly diagnose and need now. Thank you so much for this . I appreciate this approach to teaching and its methodical adaptation.
I’m one of those guys that tries to save a few bucks and so instead of replacing all the pulleys, I just replace the bearing itself which is much cheaper. Replacing all the pulleys with the name brand Motorcraft can really get expensive. On the other hand, replacing with an aftermarket pulley can also be inferior to Motorcraft. If on a tight budget, you can also remove the bearing cover and pack with grease.
For sure, there's multiple ways of going about it. In my situation, I got 10 years out of the gates pulleys and tensioner. So I kept with the gates tensioner and put all new motorcraft pulleys on. With the driving that the truck will see going forward, I'll probably have those pulleys on it for the next 20 years. So to me it makes perfect sense to just get the new stuff. But there's no harm with the way you go about it either.
Noises are a bear to diagnose. I'll be honest, I was suspicious it could be the water pump as mine's original. But knock on wood never had an issue over all the years I've had the truck. It's a reminder to check all the easy stuff first to rule it out. This was so intermittent depending on the RPM that you only could really test it by taking the belt off and spitting everything.
Also not just the sound but new ones or ones that work properly dont spin 50 rotations like the worn out one which is clearly lost all of its grease, they spin 2 or 3 rotations around and very very quiet..you dont want either end of the spectrum, a seized one that doenst spin at all or one like that in the video that spins too much.
They CAN , they CHOOSE not to, pulley on my 01 grand marquis is failing, only 93k miles on the car, previous owner had replaced it with a dayco and that is failing now also need new alternator pulley, but all the rest are OEM original parts still going strong, they really DONT make them like they used to
I mean he admitted it's not OEM and didn't state a brand so for all we know it's just a $25 made of pure Chinesium in which case 10 years really isn't bad.
That is one way it goes bad. Another one is that the spring inside the tensioner looses some of the tension it puts on the belt. Replace mine at 200k with the belt. New tensioner had twice the force as the one I took off. (Spring wore out)
In my case it was my water pump pulley. I changed it last year. Now its a similar noise but the noise starts only after the engine runs for 10 minutes or so. I suspect the tensior pulley because it see some scratches on it which usually means its loose due to a bad bearing. Which means ill also need a new belt too
help ?? my mazda 6 had pully replaced 2 months ago , because drive belt came of lost steering. PROBLAM the new pully has come of 3 times in 2-month can't understand why , my machanic said he is not Shure why its bolted on ?
Step 1 - Remove bearing seal with a razor, popping it off carefully. Step 2 - Spray and clean out inside of bearing, re lubricate. Step 3 - Install bearing seal you initially removed. YOU'RE WELCOME!
Depends. If the tensioner is not putting the proper tension on the belt then you gotta get the whole assembly. If its a whistling noise of some sort and you diagnose it that its the pulley on the tensioner yes there should be replacement just for the pulley. My issue i just fixed today was a squeal or screech on start up and/or using heat or ac, not enough tension and caused belt slipping from a seized tensioner, thing wouldnt even spring back when i loosened it with a ratchet, just gone.
Silly question, how long can you drive on something like this?? I have a hunting trip tomorrow, 5 hour drive. Is this a major do not drive issue or its gonna get worse eventually but you've got a week??
If your referring to the fact you don’t have steering with no belt, you probably have a steering gear pump that has a pulley apart of the belt system meaning it’s belt driven. Without said belt, the pump won’t work causing little to no steering. If you mean your tensioner is seized, just remove the bolts that hold it in place and fix said issue. Sorry if none of this helped
I'm not familiar with that vehicle so honestly your best bet is to consult a service manual or pick up a Haynes manual for it. Every vehicle is different and on a case by case basis.
Nope because in 2015 I retired it from daily duty when I bought a new vehicle. And now for years I've been working from home so only a few thousand a year.
ya know ive done much larger jobs but this is something i didn't know how to properly diagnose and need now. Thank you so much for this . I appreciate this approach to teaching and its methodical adaptation.
Much appreciation, great video ,as a ford man myself .
I’m one of those guys that tries to save a few bucks and so instead of replacing all the pulleys, I just replace the bearing itself which is much cheaper. Replacing all the pulleys with the name brand Motorcraft can really get expensive. On the other hand, replacing with an aftermarket pulley can also be inferior to Motorcraft. If on a tight budget, you can also remove the bearing cover and pack with grease.
For sure, there's multiple ways of going about it. In my situation, I got 10 years out of the gates pulleys and tensioner. So I kept with the gates tensioner and put all new motorcraft pulleys on.
With the driving that the truck will see going forward, I'll probably have those pulleys on it for the next 20 years. So to me it makes perfect sense to just get the new stuff. But there's no harm with the way you go about it either.
3 weeks ago I needed this. but everyone said power steering
Noises are a bear to diagnose. I'll be honest, I was suspicious it could be the water pump as mine's original. But knock on wood never had an issue over all the years I've had the truck.
It's a reminder to check all the easy stuff first to rule it out. This was so intermittent depending on the RPM that you only could really test it by taking the belt off and spitting everything.
Last week I needed this everyone said power steering and or alternator or turbo. And it was a damn 40$ pulley.
I replaced all this too. Still squeaky @@westisdabest4921
How about tensioner moves to & fro
I changed my serpentine belt because of a chirp when i randomly turn my car on turns out it was my idle pully it moves side to side.
Also not just the sound but new ones or ones that work properly dont spin 50 rotations like the worn out one which is clearly lost all of its grease, they spin 2 or 3 rotations around and very very quiet..you dont want either end of the spectrum, a seized one that doenst spin at all or one like that in the video that spins too much.
Can you do this while it's on the car.
Thanks for this, got this same exact noise on my 07 TL Type S. 4k RPM and up that noise would come on. Especially when I let the gas pedal go.
Great video. You know, we were on the moon in 1969. You’d think by 2023 they could make quality automobile parts that LAST instead of junk. 🤔
I know! You made me laugh with your comment, so true 😂
Not profitable enough for them
They CAN , they CHOOSE not to, pulley on my 01 grand marquis is failing, only 93k miles on the car, previous owner had replaced it with a dayco and that is failing now also need new alternator pulley, but all the rest are OEM original parts still going strong, they really DONT make them like they used to
Who took the picture of Neil Armweak fake ass was the first. It never happened
I mean he admitted it's not OEM and didn't state a brand so for all we know it's just a $25 made of pure Chinesium in which case 10 years really isn't bad.
That is one way it goes bad. Another one is that the spring inside the tensioner looses some of the tension it puts on the belt. Replace mine at 200k with the belt. New tensioner had twice the force as the one I took off. (Spring wore out)
In my case it was my water pump pulley. I changed it last year. Now its a similar noise but the noise starts only after the engine runs for 10 minutes or so. I suspect the tensior pulley because it see some scratches on it which usually means its loose due to a bad bearing. Which means ill also need a new belt too
Does it only makes a noice on certain speeds?
Would this cause battery light to come on?
Wow thank you!!!
help ?? my mazda 6 had pully replaced 2 months ago , because drive belt came of lost steering. PROBLAM the new pully has come of 3 times in 2-month can't understand why , my machanic said he is not Shure why its bolted on ?
Step 1 - Remove bearing seal with a razor, popping it off carefully.
Step 2 - Spray and clean out inside of bearing, re lubricate.
Step 3 - Install bearing seal you initially removed.
YOU'RE WELCOME!
Depends on the tensioner. My car's is hydraulic so sure enough when the bearing was shot the bushing was a total goner as well.
Just replace the bearing in the pulley, cost like 5 bucks for a skf or Japanese bearing
Certainly an option. But when the tensioner is older, not a big deal to just replace it.
@@3VJohnnyYeah I also replace just the bearings especially on my 01 Lightning. It’s way cheaper that way.
I just chaned nime on my p71 same issuse
So I have a bad tensioner. I can just replace the bearing and I will be good to go? Or sdo I need the whole part
Depends. If the tensioner is not putting the proper tension on the belt then you gotta get the whole assembly. If its a whistling noise of some sort and you diagnose it that its the pulley on the tensioner yes there should be replacement just for the pulley. My issue i just fixed today was a squeal or screech on start up and/or using heat or ac, not enough tension and caused belt slipping from a seized tensioner, thing wouldnt even spring back when i loosened it with a ratchet, just gone.
So replace it when it sounds like my mother in law nagging. Good to know.
Silly question, how long can you drive on something like this?? I have a hunting trip tomorrow, 5 hour drive. Is this a major do not drive issue or its gonna get worse eventually but you've got a week??
It’s going to get worse because low battery probs and overheating can result
@@The80sWereGreat lol was never stranded. It was my water pump. Had it changed before I left. Trucks running great . Appreciate ya👊👊
This is why I NEVER trust aftermarket automotive parts!
My belt came off my Jeep it stayed running I just can't turn it how do I fix this problem
If your referring to the fact you don’t have steering with no belt, you probably have a steering gear pump that has a pulley apart of the belt system meaning it’s belt driven. Without said belt, the pump won’t work causing little to no steering.
If you mean your tensioner is seized, just remove the bolts that hold it in place and fix said issue. Sorry if none of this helped
Can you do this from the top of the engine or does the car need to be on ramp and do it from underneath ???
Cheers
A belt ensioner is usually at the top/middle of the engine but it just depends on the vehicle.
@@3VJohnny it’s a Ford grand cmax it’s the very top pulley on the engine but it’s tight for space to get tools in
@@3VJohnny would I need to strip bits back to get at it from the top ?
I'm not familiar with that vehicle so honestly your best bet is to consult a service manual or pick up a Haynes manual for it. Every vehicle is different and on a case by case basis.
@@3VJohnny 👍🏼thanks pal
10 or 11 years ago
And not a lot of miles on it??
Nope because in 2015 I retired it from daily duty when I bought a new vehicle. And now for years I've been working from home so only a few thousand a year.
Just grease the bearings
That’s the problem it’s a ford mopar or no car😂😂😂😂😂😂