My God, a video about a Chevy Silverado that has the same huge lower control arms mine does!!! My 2001 2WD ext cab truck is apparently a mutant. Most of the other vids about the front end of these trucks show a little skinny arm with a single nut lower ball joint and a single horizontal bolt lower shock absorber end... My front arm has this big hole where the shock goes through like this one in your vid with two lower bolts that insert vertically into the bottom of the control arm to hold the shock, and the lower ball joint is held in by 4 large rivets.... Have been through havoc trying to replace all my tie rods, ball joints, wheel hub bearings, and shocks because my truck doesn't match the ones in the vids. All the vids say the brake caliper bolts are 18mm... nope... mine are T55 torx drive.... When I finally found a vid with the same lower shock attachment it says torque the two bolts to 45ft lbs... Tore three bolts off and they will not click.... tried 40 and even 30lbs and still tore them off. Finally just tightened them to grunt and left it. Its a mutant.... And my upper front shock bushings are twice the size of what was sent in the kit I bought.. Even my sway bars are about twice as thick as what is shown here... the outer sheath has to be nearly an inch in diameter... DIY is a constant round trip back and forth to the parts shop for different tools and parts... Thanks for a great clear, concise video!
I was trying to replace the bar link for my 98 Tahoe, i've realized the bushing was too big to fit into the bottom hole. My sway bar would not even move up or down at all like what I saw in the video. Any advice? Thank you in advance.
Exactly how tight is "nice and snug"? I tightened mine with a dewalt impact driver ( not the impact gun like for lug nuts) till it wouldnt turn any more.
The sway bar links do not have a specific torque. You are supposed to tighten them until the rubber squishes out just past the washer. Not too much though. It should be 1/16th of an inch past the washer. The rubber should not be allowed to extend past 1/8th of an inch past the metal washer.
Sir One you will hear a one hit bang noise like someone was smacking your floor with hammer or pop sound. It might not happen all the time and it will happen going straight or in turns. At least this was my symptoms with Chevy Silverado passenger side. The link was sheared off at the top.
I agree, loud-ish banging noise. I notice it more during turns and especially in training or exiting parking lot where the sway bar actually Twisted on
I have a 94 with a 4" lift. Are they the same link kit? Thank you for your response.
Super helpful. Most videos show the easier lower control arm to feed it through. Was having trouble figure out how to wiggle it out. Thanks. :)
I like the vid. Lil better lighting? A description of the tools we are using and the measurements, I think would be helpful.
Noted!
Thanks for the video it will be helpful again when i do the job
They dont look like same length as what came out?
My God, a video about a Chevy Silverado that has the same huge lower control arms mine does!!! My 2001 2WD ext cab truck is apparently a mutant. Most of the other vids about the front end of these trucks show a little skinny arm with a single nut lower ball joint and a single horizontal bolt lower shock absorber end... My front arm has this big hole where the shock goes through like this one in your vid with two lower bolts that insert vertically into the bottom of the control arm to hold the shock, and the lower ball joint is held in by 4 large rivets.... Have been through havoc trying to replace all my tie rods, ball joints, wheel hub bearings, and shocks because my truck doesn't match the ones in the vids. All the vids say the brake caliper bolts are 18mm... nope... mine are T55 torx drive.... When I finally found a vid with the same lower shock attachment it says torque the two bolts to 45ft lbs... Tore three bolts off and they will not click.... tried 40 and even 30lbs and still tore them off. Finally just tightened them to grunt and left it. Its a mutant.... And my upper front shock bushings are twice the size of what was sent in the kit I bought.. Even my sway bars are about twice as thick as what is shown here... the outer sheath has to be nearly an inch in diameter... DIY is a constant round trip back and forth to the parts shop for different tools and parts... Thanks for a great clear, concise video!
The other control arm setup is for 4WD trucks, which use torsion bars. 2WD trucks with coil springs have the large lower control arms.
Question
Why didn’t you use a floor jack to left it up
Angel F
I could be mistaken as my eyes are going bad but it looked as though the vehicle was in the air and up on a lift. As I stated I could be wrong
I was trying to replace the bar link for my 98 Tahoe, i've realized the bushing was too big to fit into the bottom hole. My sway bar would not even move up or down at all like what I saw in the video. Any advice? Thank you in advance.
Use a jack Under it and if you have to a bar like he did it’s not as easy as shown in the video
Looks simple enough..Thanks
Exactly how tight is "nice and snug"?
I tightened mine with a dewalt impact driver ( not the impact gun like for lug nuts) till it wouldnt turn any more.
With reasonable force. It's easy to go overboard especially with a power tool or long ratchet. Thanks for watching!
The sway bar links do not have a specific torque. You are supposed to tighten them until the rubber squishes out just past the washer. Not too much though. It should be 1/16th of an inch past the washer. The rubber should not be allowed to extend past 1/8th of an inch past the metal washer.
I was told 17 foot Lbs of torque . And you want rubbers not to be flattened and pancaked
89 inch pounds.
Just depending on the car you’re driving.
Good video he helps me to much thank you
Glad to hear it!
Was that a 00-07 2wd with a 6in lift?
do you have to jack the truck uo to do this
what are the symptoms of bad sway bar links
Sir One you will hear a one hit bang noise like someone was smacking your floor with hammer or pop sound. It might not happen all the time and it will happen going straight or in turns. At least this was my symptoms with Chevy Silverado passenger side. The link was sheared off at the top.
I agree, loud-ish banging noise. I notice it more during turns and especially in training or exiting parking lot where the sway bar actually Twisted on
is this the same for a 97?
Can you do this with the truck on the ground?
Yes you can. With a solid jack and jack stands. Make sure to be on level ground.
What is the bolt a 10 mm??
Wow such wholesome music 🤦♂️
notice how much longer the new stud was, on a 4wd model that is a problem. I've changed many but most of these videos are on 2wd trucks. odd
Do you have video on replacing the rear sway bar links?
We do not have a video for this vehicles rear sway bar links. But it is still the same process, just might look a little different.
What year silverado has rear sway bars?
What size is the key that you used ?
I just did mine.. I used a 9/16. wrench
Would be crazy if we knew the tools to use
i bought the same ones for my 92.. right side broke but is 24 years old lol
Thank you!
You are welcome, please subscribe
if only they made the bolt 1 inch longer
What you said!
Music level is annoying!!
Sorry
Thanks for the video it will be helpful again when i do the job
do you have to jack the truck uo to do this
Just did mine. Didn’t even jack it up. 👍👍
Thanks for the video it will be helpful again when i do the job
Thank you so much for watching!