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How to Install a New Door in an Existing Room over Drywall
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- Опубліковано 17 сер 2024
- How to install a new pre-hung door over drywall in a hallway or to split a room. Easy method.
There are many ways to install a door and this is the method I used and it worked for me. Not every situation is the same but IU hope this is helpful for ideas for you.
The same technique can be used to split a room or space.
Using Pre Hung Door - Solid Wood
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Silver Cymbal, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Silver Cymbal assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Silver Cymbal recommends safe practices when working on machines and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Silver Cymbal, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Silver Cymbal.
😀 If you enjoyed this video please SUBSCRIBE and LIKE . It really helps keep my channel going and bringing you great videos like these 😀 See the completed door with paint and trim here: instagram.com/p/BqSETXrn8Wq/?
While it isn't holding much of a load above the door in this scenario, I would have framed the top bracing piece up first and then put the vertical 2x4's up afterwords, sitting on the top of the shorter 2x4's. The 2x4's would have supported the top header and would have prevented any future sagging or settling issues.
Smart ‘x smart
I don’t think that’s needed, not a load bearing wall.
@@txmade4371 Which wall are you saying isn't load bearing? I'm trying to install a security door in my hallway, so I'm trying to learns as much as I can to make the installation sturdy enough against efforts to breach it
@@aaabbb-py5xd Are you tearing into a wall or are you adding it into an existing opening?
@@txmade4371 I'm adding it to an existing opening. In other words, I'm hoping to add a door so as to partition an existing hallway into two halves (the two halves should be connected to one another through the new door). Right now, I believe I need to construct a narrow wall, within which will be the rough opening for the door, then I'll need to connect the narrow wall to the walls of the hallway.
This only video that shows exactly how to add a door in dry wall top of stairs ty so much for this man, this is gonna make my life a whole lot easier.
Great Vid, guy! Would love to see the custom grill on top of the door though. Looking to do a very similar project
Thank you very much. Sadly I can't post a picture in the comments. But this is the exact grill that I bought and installed. It worked well and I have no ventilation issues. I probably could have gone a little smaller but as you can see my air return is right behind the door so I wanted NO problems with air conditioning and this should assure that and I get the benefit of the door. Thank you for watching and please subscribe for many more videos this spring of more how to projects. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064QIGMS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
very helpful, looking to do a very similar job, couldnt find anything online showing what you are showing! Great video!
Thank you very much, I really appreciate the kind words.
Great vid. Question though. Would it be better to put the top stud on first and put the side studs would go under it to help support the top since there is no Stud on the other side of the Sheetrock?
You could but unless you have it as a very tight fit it's really not going to be supporting much. That's why I used the angle brackets in the video. It held it together very well. Remember this is a very heavy solid wood door and now 6 months later the door continues to close and work very well.
Thank you, this is very helpful. I couldn’t find a video that explained this anywhere!
I have been searching for a video showing how to do this for a while thank you
Exactly the video I was looking for. Thanks.
Thanks for this! Getting ready to tackle the same project and couldn’t find any videos!
So glad it helped! I had the same problem when I did this, no info out there Thanks and good luck with your project
Im gonna tell you folks right now if you dont have an oscillating saw get one it is one of if not the most handy tool you will ever need and they are not expensive
Very true, seems like a crazy tool but does so much in spots nothing else can.
Thank you for this video
This is going to help my husband and install a door
Thank you for the video! It's just what I need to do at my house and now I feel that I can after watching this!
Glad to hear that it was helpful. Thank you for watching and best wishes to you. Please share my video with any friends or people that you think may like it also. Best wishes.
Thank you for this video. Easy to follow and exactly what I needed.
Glad it was helpful Thank you
Thanks for doing this video. I will be trying this with the help of my brother.
Thank you much for this video 🙏 couldn't find anything like this online glad I found this video very helpful
So glad it helped. I needed something like this when i put it in. I have a picture of the painted end result on my instagram too.
Great tutorial. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Can't figure out why I've never thought to to put the blade onto the saw that way.
Great job! Can you do a part 2 follow up just showing what it looks like after door knob, paint, and if you did additional trim work? Maybe even discuss the noise issue and how much it has helped.
Check out my instagram page I posted a picture of it all done. Came out really nice and solved a big problem or me. Thanks for watching.
This video is a life saver ! Thank you sooo much🙏🏼
The key challenge I see in some cases is not necessarily having an internal wall stud matching where the external stud goes... You clearly had a stud on your left side (since it was a corner) but having one at the right place on your right side was purely luck. So what to do if you are working in between studs? Opening the drywall to install a stud or some horizontal backers will be a LOT of work. I wonder if just properly attaching the stud to the drywall would be enough or if there is a risk of cracks overtime if people slam the door. Thoughts?
If you can't locate a stud you can still attach the stud as I did on the ceiling. I would use construction adhesive and strong wall anchors and would use 3-6 of them. There are plenty available that are rated for well over the weight of a door. The only thing I would change would be to use a hollow core door to reduce weight. It should work in most situations
great video, been look for a vid like this one for close to a year. Thank you
This is awesome - just what I was looking for to do the same in a halway. Thank you for the instruction.
YES! YES! YES! I finally found it! Thank You
I like it but you need a landing at end of stairs before the door. Also the vent may defeat your noise cancellation efforts.
If you look on my instagram you can see the finished door. The stairs worked out fine for us and the noise is night and day. Great project for us.
Some building codes require landings, but many do not; doors leading directly to descending stairways are hardly unusual in the U.S.
Thank you so much! I was looking for this video!
Glad it was helpful, This was a fun project to get done
The video ive been looking for!!!! Thank you sir!!!
Very neatly done 👍
Thanks for watching
Awesome job man !! Can you share info on the quick door hanger hinges !!
The perfect video for my project !
Hi again - just wondering if the stud width and jamb depth are flush with each other? It's a little hard to see in the video. If they weren't flush with each other, did you add anything to the framing before installing the trim, so that the trim lays flat? Thanks again for posting this video - it's a project I'll be working on in the next couple of weeks, almost the exact situation as yours.
Hi the door is designed to be used on a 2x4 opening the jamb can expand and go into itself about an inch or so. This is how they can be adjusted for drywall or thinner coverings. So you should be able to make it as flush as raw 2x4s or even with drywall on both sides.
Very helpful, thank you sir.
Glad it helped
Very nice,,,can you help me how to put a door in a small living room...
Is the framing you liquid nailed to the exhausting wall 2x4’s?
Stud stud stud we need a stud counter lol but great video!
thanks for this video. very helpful! I have a master bedroom that has a walk in bathroom with an opening width of 34.5 inches and 8ft tall. I plan on using this technique. I'm very curious about who the finished product turned out, what it looks like painted, with the vent up top, as well how the door jamb looks with the door opened while being painted. If you could pm a picture of it that would be so helpful! or post a video! thanks!
Thank you very much, You can see it right here on my instagram. I think it came out great, Take a look for yourself: instagram.com/p/BqSETXrn8Wq/?
Checked it out. Wow looks really good. Great job!
Great video and just what I needed. Question though...do you have to have a ceiling 2x4? I have a tall vaulted ceiling overhead.
This is what we need to do at the end of a hallway but I'm worried we'll mess it up costing us more. How much would it cost to have someone do this?
Very neat. I was thinking of using toggle bolts for all the 2 door jambs and the header as I cannot find any studs close to where I want to install mine. Terrible idea?
Think it's probably better to build the frame then put it in place so you can screw altogether but I still like the video.
I’m doing the same thing at the bottom of the stairs and my split level home. I’m turning this into an upstairs/downstairs duplex. We install the door and have the framing as you do with a couple vertical pieces as well. Now I am unsure of an easy, unique, way to fill in that space and I’m not finding much on Google. Does anyone have any ideas outside of sheet rock?
Nice Job
Thank you, I really appreciate it. If you haven't already please click on the Thumbs up also Subscribe for more interesting videos coming! Best wishes
Great video! Just what I needed. Can you tell me the tool you used to cut the baseboard? Thanks
Also, was the jamb wider than the 2x4 frame? I believe most jambs comes with an extra inch (or more?) to accommodate drywall before the trim. Yours seems flush to the stud on the sides where you simply covered the gaps with trim... But then I wonder how you installed the drywall the top part with the grill (I am assuming you had to drywall there)... Thanks!!
The frame is smaller than 2x4 and the trim is adjustable on these pre hung doors to accomodate varying drywall thicknesses. I actually dryalled to the edge on the top part of the door to make the job a little easier but you could have gone under if you wanted. You can also see the finished door with paint etc here on my instagram here instagram.com/p/BqSETXrn8Wq/?
thanks for the video, this is exactly what I was looking for, curious how does you door looks now after installing the custom grills on top of the door .. can you post a video 2 or any picture of it?
Check out my instagram page and if you scroll back you will see he finished door. Still loving it a year + later.
@@SilverCymbal looks absolutely great .. thanks !
@@arjun4u2008 I appreciate that thanks, I wish I did it years earlier.
But how did you find where the wall studs were? (when you screwed the wood studs onto the plasterboard)
@0:20 lol🤣😆😆😆😆
Great video. Is this door a prehung door or just door slab plz?
I have a situation really similar to this. But, on one side, I don't have a stud. Any workarounds for this situation?
Is it possible to get tool list. does the trim come with the door?
Hey enjoying the video and your for insulation you probably know cause your door perfect spray pint black 2x4 then grill stair side down and vent bedroom side up to hit filter
Thanks this what I was looking for. Did you need a permit?
I like you search for hours trying to find a way to add a door to an existing opening without finding anything. The only difference between what you did and what I’m trying to do is that this your home and I am renting so I don’t wanna permanently mount a door in this opening I want to temporarily mount a door for this opening.
The reason I’m trying to add a door to this opening is because it’s the entranceway that leads to the guest bathroom and to my room.
My roommate got the room with the bathroom behind his door. Sadly, I got the room with the guest bathroom. So the only way I would have privacy is if I put a door to block his or anyone’s view into my side.
I really don’t want to drill holes in her walls or put glue or anything like that because it’ll damage their property and I’ll end up having to pay thousands of dollars in repairs so I need to come up with an idea on how to get the door to fit in tight so that the jam will stay in place without having to drill a bunch of holes if you have any ideas I’m open to your suggestions but I like what you’ve done and I’m gonna use your idea to hopefully be able to get my job done without it being a permanent thing and not damage this apt.
Maybe remove the trim and install drywall to match the level of the drywall inside the room then add the trim
Would this work with a lowered ceiling ? The kind that has framed in panels.
How did you add the trims ?
My opening is thicker than the door . This is too hard
Any tips doing this in a hallway where the studs are staggered (as in, could only use one walls stud)? Should I try to use a ceiling stud?
Do you how power tool reviews? Like cord versus cordless..
Just curious. When you installed the quick door hanger brackets it's flush with the existing wall which means when you go to drywall you'll have a weird bump out. How did you work around this? Everything I've seen of the clips are used after you've already applied sheetrock/ drywall.
Thank you for sharing. However, less dangerous if you would have moved the door back into the room about 2-3 feet, so there isn't a sudden drop. I know that means you would have had to add a 2-3 foot wide wall section on the left to connect to, but worth it. Been there.
Or maybe use a french door to see more easily what's on the other side before taking a step
Looking to do this, how did you find two studs on either side of the door to screw your door frame stud into that were evenly across from each other. Seems like I checked and the studs at the top of may stairs aren't even, Or did you just secure the door frame into the top and bottom plate?, if that makes sense.
I want to do something like this in my tiny condo. See my daughter and I don’t get along. her room is at the front of the condo. I want to install something like this as soon as u walk in the front door there would be a door or barn door that has a lock so she would only have access to her room and bathroom and I could have the rest of the house. I’ll redecorate her room and place a small refrigerator and microwave and charge her a small rent price and we don’t have to be in each others face. I don’t want her to have access to rest of condo because she uses my back porch to smoke pot and talk loudly on FaceTime and she burns everything in my kitchen. I think this could work. I’m also thinking about installing a small shower because we have this weird kick n Jill type crap going on where there is two toilet bathrooms and one tub in between that I have to share with her. Love her but we fight too much 😢 trying everything to help her out and live peacefully.
Warning to UK viewers, installing a door so close to the top of a staircase is against building regulations!
Do you need a city permit to do this work?
shouldnt the header be sitting on top the other pieces of wood?
Remember this is an interior door not supporting anything above it. If it's a non-load-bearing wall, use a two-by-four instead of a header." . A single two-by-four, when spanning over the opening, is a header, too.
Even if it’s a load bearing wall, the opening is already designed into the wall. So you don’t a header.
Great job thanks!
Thank you
This is exactly what I was looking for, great video! Any worries about code when you’re adding a door like this?
Thank you kindly for the nice comment. As far as I am aware there no code requirements for an interior door of this nature.
Its your fucking house,,fuck the government
Thank you! How much would you say you spent on everything?
I got a solid wood door that was $200 alone, you can definitely get a less expensive door. On top of that the wood, grills, drywall and few other parts were only about $70, so $270 for my setup. - Thanks for watching
Awesome video, thanks for uploading. What would you do if you cannot locate a wall stud behind the drywall where you want to hang the door? Or there is a stud behind the drywall on just one side?
Thank you. Sure it's very likely that will happen since you can't always place the door where a stud will be. Ideally you want the hinge side on a stud if you are able to do that. If not a second option would be to do what I did on the ceiling with strong molly bolts and some adhesive for extra strength. A year later mine has held up perfectly and is totally solid. Remember too you can also screw to the floor for some strength as well if your new door studs allow it. Take your time and you will do great. Thanks for watching, please subscribe and share with anyone that can benefit. Best wishes
Amazing!!!
How much did this cost you?
Good vid but why so thorough but i’m confused why u leave out the door hanging part which is kinda the whole reason people click the video🤷🏼♂️ just saying but kind of helpful to a lot of these newcomers and diy people:)
Is that a 2×4 stud?
What about if there are cornices on top of the wall. Between wall and ceiling. Should I cut into that as done to the skirting on the bottom?
If you have trim on the top preventing the door from reaching the wall I would do just what you said. Try to use a saw like I used to plunge into it to cut out the space you need. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Good
Thank you, a year plus later the door is rock solid and has worked out very well for us.
Beware of regulations where you live. Where i am that's illegal you can't have a door opening into stairs
Well Done!
Thank you!
I have a stud on the right but only drywall on the left, what should I do?
That’s what I had here also. If you can put the hinge side on the stud that’s the best situation then just use Molly’s like I did on the ceiling on the non studded wall.
Is that a pre-hung door?
We have textured wall . Is it okay to install right to it ?
The texture can get in the way a little bit if its really thick. You might just run a scraper down to smooth the contact part
Did you use the prehung door ?
Yes, definitely Makes it much easier
What brand of saw
It is a oscillating saw, I am using an older Fein one but there are many of these out there. They work great for these applications.
This goes against all sorts of building and safety codes. But if you don’t care about all that, it’s a good “hack” to install a door. Can’t argue with the results.
This is fine.
Header stud should be on top of side studs
Not needed, door is not going to be carrying any of the weight of the roof.
Was with you until you didn't show putting in those clips and the other trim that went around. He's sorry I'm an amateur and that's why I'm searching UA-cam. Why would you show the whole project?
had the same question till I found this video ua-cam.com/video/WcJhR7Dp6Gw/v-deo.html
Your smoke is way to close to your return
I know you can find solutions to this problem in the Stodoys plans.
What a pointless video. It’s just you drilling studs into walls. Nothing about hanging the actual door lmao
Perfect
This absolutely is NOT how you frame a door. It’ll work as an addition but super cringe as a carpenter. Your top plate isn’t doing anything but giving drywall something to screw to. You got all kings and no jacks. Just terrible
What do you see as potential failure points? I would think it critical that a doorway above a stairwell be able to withstand a lot of force without breaking backward, but provided the door framing is securely fastened to studs on both sides I wouldn't think things could flex enough for the door to give way without warning. A more interesting question in my mind is whether one should use a fire-rated vent with thermally-activated louvers so as to allow any of the upstairs bedrooms to be usable for egress from any other even if there's a fire downstairs.
My guy, the door framing in not goin to carry any of the weight from the ceiling. Two studs on the side is all you need really.
That is totally illegal
His house man, plus the door framing won’t be carrying any of the ceiling’s load.
Ok the reason why they wanted a cool G to put a door is because they do not frame door opening out of code like you did.
They do not make a dangerous situation they fix them?
I just enjoy ppl like you who automatically assume you can do my job no problem?
Sir you made a mess it’s something a 12 yr old would do to spite his parents.
Then you hv the arrogance to post it on Y-T so others( who know nothing about framing an opening and why we follow code) can make the mess you did?
Then when I inspect the home I can point it out and have bout 3 G’s marked off the price to tear out your mess and do it right?
What do you do for a living so I can make a video and disparage you?
And that would be reason people try to do it themselves. Adding 2G to rip out a door and a couple studs...to do it right.
@@chrismceachern3483 you still do not get it? Chris I am a finish contractor and I hv bought houses like what your talking about and either they knock off the money to bring it to code so the bank will release my payment to buy it or I move on?
Now if your going to die in the house and never sell so the death door is not an issue along with good Lord knows what else then fine your children get to deal with it?
I will bet you hv no idea what a fair price is for framing in a door opening and installing jam, casing and trim plus door?
Your guessing maybe what the guy at your work told you?
U are clueless?
Hey go ahead and may I suggest some electrical and plumbing work DIY style!
Karen , simmer down I am sure there is a guy out there that will do it for $150 ?
He is the guy laying behind the store waiting for a job offer!
@@zephyr1408Lol..your a funny guy. I have contractors of all sorts for family and friends. One thing I do understand is how to find correct information on how to do a job or when to trade my skills for the skills of others to avoid paying other overpriced contractors. I do know it doesn't cost 2,000 dollars to rip out a door done wrong. Although there's plenty of contractors out there taking advantage of folks, older folks in particular who do not know the difference.
WTF? This is a how to video so you should assume that some people have no idea how to do this. You totally skipped the part where you put the other wood above the door frame. I have no idea how you attached it unless it was friggin magic. Maybe dont skip the parts that you think everyone already knows how to do. I first thought this was a great video but now completely lost and have to find another video to see how to attach the other wood above the door frame. smh
Sorry you didn't find it useful. I showed exactly what I used to mount it. You should watch it again. Just an an fyi there is no other video that showed an install like this.
You mean a header? Not needed in this situation, it’s not a load bearing wall so this is fine. A header is only needed when the door opening is on a load bearing wall, so it can help carry the load of the ceiling joist.
THANKKKK YOU!!!!!