I appreciate the fact that you you keep your “How To” videos at the real DIY level by using an angle grinder, a vise and a hammer. There is nothing more frustrating than to click on a DIY project, and the first thing they do is bring out a part from a commercial grade CNC Plasma cutter. Thanks for keeping it real, and may God Bless you and yours!
I literally just watched the original video like 5 this morning thinking “I hope he remembers to post a video for hydraulic brakes” and 6 hours later 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
The guys at MCP are great. I recently rebuilt an old race kart and they set me up with new parts to rebuild my Enginetics brakes. (They bought Enginetics)
i recently bought an old race kart frame with some attachments to it and the brakes were definitely not going to work any time soon. they were enginetics and this type is almost exaclty what i needed.
I like the nylon lines easy peazy. My shifter cart has dual masters two front calipers one rear ....great tip using the pressure method to bleed saves lots of time. The suction method works great too 😎
I did a set recently with broken bleeders. I ended up filling a plastic bag full of brake fluid, submerged the brakes , pumped the lines out and installed the pistons. It worked...
You're videos are the BEST. Not only are they always entertaining but they're very informative too. I'm always learning something from you and that's just great!
Just added hydraulic brakes to my Manco XTK 2 seater. I used the $99 Mid S kit and $30 Manco hex axle rotor from GPS. Pre-bled so just had to fab mounts. It won’t lock up rear axle but far better than mechanical brake.
Thank you thank you THANK YOU! for this video. I have a Manco Intruder II with the mechanical brakes and they SUCK! My boys haven’t been able to ride it for several months because I can not get them to work properly. Replaced everything but the pedal and rod and can’t get them to hold adjustment. I’ve been wanting to swap to hydraulics but haven’t been able to find a decent video on doing it. Looks like I’ve got me a little winter project now!
Love all your videos red beard thank you for all of em. only got one issue and that's the fact your grinder dont have a guard on it with cutting wheel. Please use it bro those discs cause lot if damage if they explode ask my fingers. Be safe bro god bless yall!!
I have this setup and cannot for the life of me the rear axle to lock up or stop within a reasonable amount of time. I even made my own larger diameter rotor and results were barely noticeable. Have you used the mcp on larger karts? Mine is a 2 seater and only thing I can think now is it’s just too much weight for a single rear caliper/rotor design. Any advice greatly appreciated
I have a custom built single seat buggy (big block and full suspension so it's definitely heavier than a standard yard kart). Probably weighs 360 - 400 without me in it. On asphalt I can get the tires to lock at low speeds but not while going fast. On dirt I can lock them up fine. It really does depend on multiple factors. Weight distribution, tire size, weight of vehicle, terrain, etc. If you have huge tires and a significant rear weight bias while driving on asphalt in a 500 pound kart, you will never lock them up with a single caliper. As for stopping distance, rear only brakes will never stop as quick as front and rears, or even just fronts alone. When you brake all the weight shifts forward, so the tires with the most grip and braking power are the fronts. With setups like this physics works against us. However, it is effective enough to be acceptable in 90% of all karts.
Hi, I have the same exact issue and I have bled them and done everything except adjust the caliper to be closer to the rotor. I have the kart on my channel. Getting a bit discouraged, even if they do not lock up they deceleration should be noticeable which it is not.
@@iheart3dprinting951 I finally found my problem to be what bunkerblog said above. Rear mounted motor, large tires, and single rear only brake caliper just wasn’t enough to effectively brake with a heavy kart. Took the motor off and rolled it down a hill and braking was what you would expect it to be. Only option for me would be front brakes but I’m just living with what I have as good enough.
@@nono_1477 yeah I checked em out a bit, I'm gonna wait and see what he comes up with the cheaper master cylinder lol, 100 bucks is more than I'd like to spend at the moment, but I also have a junk ATV frame that I might try to use the master off the handle bars somehow.
I bought these with braided hoses some months ago for my go kart im building. They finally went on over the weekend, but now im having an issue. Whenever you push the Master cylinder lever, the pistons come out making contact with the pad. But when you let the lever return, then the piston get sucked back in the caliper, yet only fluid comes out the bleeding screws. Ive researched it tried what was said, i tried it just like in your video except the bleeder kit ( been ordered though ), ive lifted the gokart at all angles and different heights while doing the bleeding process, ive check all connections and fittings and found no leaks. Ive been going at this for 2 days now. You wouldn't happen to know how to fix this problem would you sir?
@@craighansen3031 from the research ive done, both pistons are supposed to pop out and stay out and touch the pads. Not get sucked all the way back into the caliper. Yes the pads hit the rotor when pedal is pressed all the way down. But its doesnt apply any pressure to actually stop the gokart. Seeing the bleeder kit came in. I tried it and still the same thing is happening. Leaving the go kart with no brakes.
Cornet 125 flux that's what I use when we go out on a job to weld on a trailer complete starter kit from ace is like 350 comes with welder wire brush cut off wheel grinding wheel helmet good welding gloves and good work gloves that's if your going to weld out side if you get a gas welder your wasting your money the wind will blow your shield away
I appreciate the fact that you you keep your “How To” videos at the real DIY level by using an angle grinder, a vise and a hammer.
There is nothing more frustrating than to click on a DIY project, and the first thing they do is bring out a part from a commercial grade CNC Plasma cutter.
Thanks for keeping it real, and may God Bless you and yours!
I literally just watched the original video like 5 this morning thinking “I hope he remembers to post a video for hydraulic brakes” and 6 hours later 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
The guys at MCP are great. I recently rebuilt an old race kart and they set me up with new parts to rebuild my Enginetics brakes. (They bought Enginetics)
i recently bought an old race kart frame with some attachments to it and the brakes were definitely not going to work any time soon. they were enginetics and this type is almost exaclty what i needed.
I like the nylon lines easy peazy. My shifter cart has dual masters two front calipers one rear ....great tip using the pressure method to bleed saves lots of time. The suction method works great too 😎
I did a set recently with broken bleeders. I ended up filling a plastic bag full of brake fluid, submerged the brakes , pumped the lines out and installed the pistons. It worked...
You're videos are the BEST. Not only are they always entertaining but they're very informative too. I'm always learning something from you and that's just great!
I see a notification I click on a notification and I'm happy
I'm 53.. I still have pictures of when I was a kid on my go kart and mini bikes...
I have the same setup on my go-kart I just bought I have been looking for about 2 weeks on how to adjust them. It's like you guys read my mind.
Just added hydraulic brakes to my Manco XTK 2 seater. I used the $99 Mid S kit and $30 Manco hex axle rotor from GPS. Pre-bled so just had to fab mounts. It won’t lock up rear axle but far better than mechanical brake.
Thank you thank you THANK YOU! for this video. I have a Manco Intruder II with the mechanical brakes and they SUCK! My boys haven’t been able to ride it for several months because I can not get them to work properly. Replaced everything but the pedal and rod and can’t get them to hold adjustment. I’ve been wanting to swap to hydraulics but haven’t been able to find a decent video on doing it. Looks like I’ve got me a little winter project now!
Do you need 2 brake lines going between the MC and the caliper or can you have just 1?
Damn I need this kit
You should do a garage tour
Did you do the video of mounting the 150 caliper on the rear? I was looking maybe I missed it in the list.
Scrolled through looking for the same thing, didn't find it.
Did MCP stop recommending DOT 5 Silicone Brake Fluid. I didn't notice you mention what type of fluid you were using.
Heck ya great video hydraulic brakes for the win bud
Which ones do you like better?
@@CainSample hydraulic all day way easier
@@Tampaboys i think id rather have the 150 front disc brakes rather than these expensive brakes...cant wait to see that option
@@CainSample well ya the little cheaper option is always easier on the pocket bud
side question... how do you like the nargesa bender? looking at getting one for my business.
When are we going to get that video on hooking up a charging system?
Thanks for the video RBG and god bless
Love all your videos red beard thank you for all of em. only got one issue and that's the fact your grinder dont have a guard on it with cutting wheel. Please use it bro those discs cause lot if damage if they explode ask my fingers. Be safe bro god bless yall!!
Was just typing the same, but found yours. Please RB, use the guards on your tools. We don't want to see you get hurt.
Thank you I'm gonna be adding a hydraulic brake soon.
love your vids keep it up
GREAT CONTENT BUDDY THANK YOU 🙏🏾
Do you have a link to the bleeder bottle and cap? I can’t find them on their website.
Thanks Great Video !
I have this setup and cannot for the life of me the rear axle to lock up or stop within a reasonable amount of time. I even made my own larger diameter rotor and results were barely noticeable. Have you used the mcp on larger karts? Mine is a 2 seater and only thing I can think now is it’s just too much weight for a single rear caliper/rotor design. Any advice greatly appreciated
I have a custom built single seat buggy (big block and full suspension so it's definitely heavier than a standard yard kart). Probably weighs 360 - 400 without me in it. On asphalt I can get the tires to lock at low speeds but not while going fast. On dirt I can lock them up fine. It really does depend on multiple factors. Weight distribution, tire size, weight of vehicle, terrain, etc. If you have huge tires and a significant rear weight bias while driving on asphalt in a 500 pound kart, you will never lock them up with a single caliper.
As for stopping distance, rear only brakes will never stop as quick as front and rears, or even just fronts alone. When you brake all the weight shifts forward, so the tires with the most grip and braking power are the fronts. With setups like this physics works against us. However, it is effective enough to be acceptable in 90% of all karts.
Hi, I have the same exact issue and I have bled them and done everything except adjust the caliper to be closer to the rotor. I have the kart on my channel. Getting a bit discouraged, even if they do not lock up they deceleration should be noticeable which it is not.
@@iheart3dprinting951 I finally found my problem to be what bunkerblog said above. Rear mounted motor, large tires, and single rear only brake caliper just wasn’t enough to effectively brake with a heavy kart. Took the motor off and rolled it down a hill and braking was what you would expect it to be. Only option for me would be front brakes but I’m just living with what I have as good enough.
Can i use bike caliper and disc on a diy kart?
The links for the MCP master and caliper 404 for me, just a heads up.
Bmikarts.com has them to
@@nono_1477 yeah I checked em out a bit, I'm gonna wait and see what he comes up with the cheaper master cylinder lol, 100 bucks is more than I'd like to spend at the moment, but I also have a junk ATV frame that I might try to use the master off the handle bars somehow.
@@nono_1477 appreciate the reply though, thank you
@@M.TTT. no problem and ya I’d use the four wheeler one instead to
Wants to use this to upgrade brakes on my owasso explorer
Tried to follow the links but getting a 404 message. Ready to buy this kit!
Bmikarts.com has em
I bought these with braided hoses some months ago for my go kart im building. They finally went on over the weekend, but now im having an issue. Whenever you push the Master cylinder lever, the pistons come out making contact with the pad. But when you let the lever return, then the piston get sucked back in the caliper, yet only fluid comes out the bleeding screws. Ive researched it tried what was said, i tried it just like in your video except the bleeder kit ( been ordered though ), ive lifted the gokart at all angles and different heights while doing the bleeding process, ive check all connections and fittings and found no leaks. Ive been going at this for 2 days now. You wouldn't happen to know how to fix this problem would you sir?
Isn't that what's supposed to happen? I don't see the problem ? Does the piston not squeeze the pads on the rotor??
@@craighansen3031 from the research ive done, both pistons are supposed to pop out and stay out and touch the pads. Not get sucked all the way back into the caliper. Yes the pads hit the rotor when pedal is pressed all the way down. But its doesnt apply any pressure to actually stop the gokart. Seeing the bleeder kit came in. I tried it and still the same thing is happening. Leaving the go kart with no brakes.
I’m looking to buy a mig welder for around the farm. Got any recommendations
Cornet 125 flux that's what I use when we go out on a job to weld on a trailer complete starter kit from ace is like 350 comes with welder wire brush cut off wheel grinding wheel helmet good welding gloves and good work gloves that's if your going to weld out side if you get a gas welder your wasting your money the wind will blow your shield away
Forney 125 spell check sucks some times lol
@@looserdownfab5219 ok thank you I’ll look at them
When you say around the farm do you mean sitting in the barn or on a truck? If in the barn, do you have 220?
@@MegaKencam at the barn and yes I have 220
Can confirm, stock manco dingo brakes do not stop a 200lb person and gx390 lol
Where you located?
how much was the brakes and the name of them
Your installing disk brake not brakes as your not installing on the front correct???
Anyone have the link to the 150cc job he
Mentions will follow this video?
Awesome!
Those are called “fixed caliper” the type of brake you refer to where it has “one piston” is called a floating caliper.
1st