What products did you use. The can't see label on first bottle and second bottle cream is what???? Would you talk about those two products and why they are used? That would be helpful. Nice video, butwe know how to sand - what we don't know is what finishing products to use and you skipped that right over, Thanks anyway and appreciate you time
I'm restoring a wife-beating-level abused cutting board I've had for over a decade. This board has everything: Water stains, food/oil stains, cracks, most likely warping. I just started learning about using wood glue for cracks, and luckily I have food safe wood glue. This isn't mentioned in the video: MAKE SURE YOUR WOOD GLUE IS FOOD SAFE. There are lots of brands, I'm not here to recommend any of them. My biggest takeaway in this video was to sand the board while the glue is wet to create a good wood filler. I've already sanded the board once with coarse grit, but it needs to have a second round (I mentioned, severely abused board, refuse to just buy a new one), so I'll use that. That said, why did you leave all the nail marks and hammer crescents on the working surface? I know hammer marks when I see them, and those 'divots' have to be either nail or awl or pointed chisel (if there is such a thing) marks. Did he work leather or something? Anyway, hammer marks, punch/ nail/ awl marks. I would prefer a double-sided board and just use some of that nubbly friction material as a mat to keep the board from sliding, but even if I didn't, why didn't you condition that side of the board? Basically you just wasted effort by leaving an entire side open to the kind of damage cutting boards can have. Overall, definitely a like, thank you for the wood glue/ sanding advice!
2:16 - Back and forth!! = Not safe also board is moving.. 1:16, 4:55 - Dark gap lines (You should have not used Titebond III/ Original to fill those gaps).. Try Titebond II..
It's wood glue, so that when he sands it down the sawdust fills the gaps. I'd be wary of doing this, but if you go for it ensure you use food safe glue.
No. Sorry the finished product looked like a cheap 20 minute fix. Not good at all. It still showed all the scratches and dings, etc. Band aid fix rather than something nice.
Great video ! Love it
Ryobi drills and such sell for more in Seattle. I’ve never been to a city rockin that much neon green.
Nice job and info. I'll try it. I hv a friends wedding present..50 yrs ago
Great information! Thank you so much for sharing!!
Love the tag !!!
great vid!
When routing you don't need to clamp it down. Get a piece of rubber mesh shelf liner and lay it on that.
What products did you use. The can't see label on first bottle and second bottle cream is what???? Would you talk about those two products and why they are used? That would be helpful. Nice video, butwe know how to sand - what we don't know is what finishing products to use and you skipped that right over, Thanks anyway and appreciate you time
I'm restoring a wife-beating-level abused cutting board I've had for over a decade. This board has everything: Water stains, food/oil stains, cracks, most likely warping. I just started learning about using wood glue for cracks, and luckily I have food safe wood glue. This isn't mentioned in the video: MAKE SURE YOUR WOOD GLUE IS FOOD SAFE. There are lots of brands, I'm not here to recommend any of them. My biggest takeaway in this video was to sand the board while the glue is wet to create a good wood filler. I've already sanded the board once with coarse grit, but it needs to have a second round (I mentioned, severely abused board, refuse to just buy a new one), so I'll use that.
That said, why did you leave all the nail marks and hammer crescents on the working surface? I know hammer marks when I see them, and those 'divots' have to be either nail or awl or pointed chisel (if there is such a thing) marks. Did he work leather or something? Anyway, hammer marks, punch/ nail/ awl marks. I would prefer a double-sided board and just use some of that nubbly friction material as a mat to keep the board from sliding, but even if I didn't, why didn't you condition that side of the board? Basically you just wasted effort by leaving an entire side open to the kind of damage cutting boards can have.
Overall, definitely a like, thank you for the wood glue/ sanding advice!
What is that large upright sander called? Super cool i need it
Noob here- when I use a palm sander do I have to go with the grain? Or does the sander not create deep gouges like manual sanding does
Always with the grain
THX!
"Pretty sure dad was up to something he shouldna been.."
😅😅
I have a 56 year old cutting board that my son made me. Can it be restored? Is been well used
Nice vid
What kind of glue?
Where you got those rubber feet though?
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Cheater.......those hands wrapping that board were not your hands......🤣🤣🤣
strip the glossy workbench top. it should be plain wood and grippy, not slippery
2:16 - Back and forth!! = Not safe also board is moving..
1:16, 4:55 - Dark gap lines (You should have not used Titebond III/ Original to fill those gaps).. Try Titebond II..
What was the cream?
It's wood glue, so that when he sands it down the sawdust fills the gaps.
I'd be wary of doing this, but if you go for it ensure you use food safe glue.
Banks thank you
Lol you’re talking specifically about the cream at the end of the vid? It’s not glue it’s probably some type of bee’s wax.
We need to collab!!!
Agreed!
No. Sorry the finished product looked like a cheap 20 minute fix. Not good at all. It still showed all the scratches and dings, etc. Band aid fix rather than something nice.
It should, if you want new keep sanding until you have a solid smooth finish, or,...buy a new board