Hi Tom. Couple of tips from over the Pond! Clutch - remove two opposing springs from the pressure plate, gives a really light clutch but still engages fine. Rear mudguard (fender to yous guys 😉) - replace the rear two mounting screws with either cable ties or plastic screws. Then hopefully these will break before your mudguard in a crash (there is still the air filter screw of course but it’s a common mod anyway) Front mudguard/fender - I have been told that Gas Gas ones fit and are stronger 🤷♂️ Drop the front sprocket to a 10 tooth and use second gear for most things. Hope these help! Love my 200 💪💪💪
I replaced the airbox screw with a plastic/nylon screw so that it doesn't become a leverage/breakage point. So far the nylon bolts along the entire rear fender has helped save mine over teh past few years.
Hey Tom Devon from stickytiresaz, an aluminum gas cap from beta is an absolute game changer for the effort and an Allen key air box bolt, it’s the same size Allen as the bolts for the plastics and exhaust mount!
Buddy just got an Evo 250 (standard). It's the easiest starting Keihin bike that I've ridden, all the others I've tried don't start as well as my Dell'Ortos. The 250 combined with the slow throttle has a nice soft bottom end that will be nice for him to learn on and still plenty of power for hill climbs. The 6 speed shifts nice and has nice ratios. The front fender abomination is a joke, I told him they're weak and sure enough we got there to look at the bike and it was already broken. We swapped it to a Montesa brace and fender. The clutch is way heavier than my TRS, I got on in when I was tired and my hand was cramping up trying to ride it. We're going to look into spacers to reduce the clutch spring preload, and possibly swap to a smaller bore master cylinder.
My 2013 EVO 200 is the perfect bike for this 70 year old body. I came to this sport on a couple of years ago. Not too good at it but I have a blast every time I'm out on it. Left kick, no bother, start easy, yup, clutch drag, yup but it's a Beta thing. I will won't live to find the limits of this bike. (Does crud leak out of the header/silencer joint if you use the silencer as a handle? Yup.)
Great video. Couple of comments: 1) the clutch dragginess seems dependent upon oil brand, oil age, oil fill level and bike specifics. My '21 200 Factory only starts to drag when the oil needs changing. My '16 would drag all the time, despite making the various clutch mods such as springs, removing glue from clutch plates, washers etc. I have found that Nils Trials Clutch Oil works the best in my bike. 2) both fenders are really fragile for the sport we do, though this is not 200 specific. Other brands have figured out the right plastic type and it is time Beta did something about it. 3) I agree this is a Goldilocks bike, and in speaking with more experienced riders who I have let try my bike, they always are surprised how rideable it is and how much power it has. As you say, just a few more revs are required for hit. Agree with Ray that anyone below the top expert levels should be on a 200 or maximum a 250.
Yes, it's interesting that the changes made to the 2025 don't include anything about the plastics. Thanks for sharing about the clutch, good insights 👍
Thanks for the oil tip - I have a GasGas but cannot eliminate residual clutch drag no matter what I do. Is the Nils Trials clutch oil 75W and have you noticed a difference compared to other oils of same grade, or what are you comparing it to?
@@robertslinger3811 Honestly I have *no idea* what grade the oil is, but one of our local GasGas guys swears by it also. The label says "Nils Trials Clutch Oil". I have compared it against Maxima 75W clutch oil, a variety of ATFs and a Motul transmission oil, and this is the only oil I'm going to use now. Plus it lasts at least twice as long as the Maxima I was using - the Maxima would start to drag at 20 hours, the Nils goes to more than 40 hours.
I have a 2023 Gas Gas 250 GP with about four hours on it for sale if anyone is interested. Been inside air conditioned shop since new. Comes with helmets, boots and heavy springs for 210-240 lb riders. Bought it new and my son didn’t like riding it as much as his dirt bike.
I have always really enjoyed riding betas, for the reasons you point out, especially the power delivery @ 0-50%. The Evo is about the oldest design on the market & the fact that they have not addressed the problems pointed out since its inception is something I find frustrating. Deficiencies in both fenders (the front is just too short for muddy envs. so the rad gets caked, and the fragility & cost of the rear is horrific) & the cable routing around the headstock would not be difficult to improve, but probably the sale volume isn't there for them to be bothered to invest in the Evo. Whilst trials bike change little year on year, I feel the Evo is one of the most stagnant platforms around, even though they are nice to ride & have a really loyal following.
@@TrialsProgression If you look at SSDT videos, you can see all the adjustments the Beta riders make fro the big challenge. The front fender is a particular problem, as the rad gets caked on the moors, then on the 15 miles of road to the next group the engine overheats & seizes. I expect John Lampkin's been telling them for 15 years to sort this out, but apparently to no avail. He has a downloadable guide on how to set up an Evo for the SSDT. The other Evo trick I have seen (in France, where steps are huge and rear fender damage is regular and always in the same place) is to cut a 5-8cm ring from an old inner tube & wrap it around the fender at the top of the airbox, taking out the two screws at the back (or replace with slack cable ties). This also works as a temporary fix if the fender cracks (as they always do) around these holes.
Great observations Tom. I know you have Beta guru Ray Peters on your side for advice. One thing I have been told as far as clutch pull strength reduction is removing 2 of the clutch springs. I haven't done it as I have no issues with the pull effort. I'm told doing it has not produced any slippage. Good move on the hour meter. Mine has a vibration triggered hour meter so no external wires are required. I made a swap to a Jitsie brake pedal with a larger extended contact area. I really like it. I'm going to disagree with you on the 200 being the "unicorn". I've mentioned this to you before but, I've spent a brief amount of time on the Factory 200 and I've come away with feeling my 300 Super Smooth is even more forgiving and mild-mannered. Yes, the 200 has all the power you'll need but the power delivery of the Super Smooth is pure butter. Big ol' pussy cat. Heavy flywheel so it really chugs down low and kicks over just as easy as the 200 due to the low compression. II've even ridden the regular 200 and found it requires more anticipation on making sure I have the engine in the right rpm range. I've let others take it for a spin and the common theme mentioned is how the SS really inspires confidence. There might be some bells and whistles on the Factory as far as suspension and components but I doubt we would even notice. I would be interested in your opinion if you ever get the chance to give the Super Smooth a try.
Thanks for sharing and now you got me curious to try a SS as well. 🤔 Maybe someone will have one at Trials Training Days in a couple months and I can take it for a spin. 👍
The dangers of getting into online rabbit holes: Buying these kind of gutless bikes. Getting a gutless bike will never make anyone a better rider. Riding 300cc bikes makes anyone a better rider because it will make you work on your body position a lot more. In Spain they put 7 yo kids on 300cc, Toni is one of the main advocates of this. On the internet we put heavy adults on gutless bikes. I’m sorry yo break your bubble but had betas and almost every other brand and this is just a very mediocre bike that will start soon falling apart and whose components were old 10 years ago let alone now.
Hi Tom. Couple of tips from over the Pond!
Clutch - remove two opposing springs from the pressure plate, gives a really light clutch but still engages fine.
Rear mudguard (fender to yous guys 😉) - replace the rear two mounting screws with either cable ties or plastic screws. Then hopefully these will break before your mudguard in a crash (there is still the air filter screw of course but it’s a common mod anyway)
Front mudguard/fender - I have been told that Gas Gas ones fit and are stronger 🤷♂️
Drop the front sprocket to a 10 tooth and use second gear for most things.
Hope these help! Love my 200 💪💪💪
Awesome! Thanks for sharing. Good insights.
I replaced the airbox screw with a plastic/nylon screw so that it doesn't become a leverage/breakage point. So far the nylon bolts along the entire rear fender has helped save mine over teh past few years.
Hey Tom Devon from stickytiresaz, an aluminum gas cap from beta is an absolute game changer for the effort and an Allen key air box bolt, it’s the same size Allen as the bolts for the plastics and exhaust mount!
Perfect. Great solutions👌
It's hard not to love a Beta 200. We've got a new 23 in stock, and I might be riding that if not for the fabulous Vertigo 225 ...
The idea of kick starting the bike with the Crogs really show that I can kick starting with my bad leg. Thanks for pointing that out.
You're welcome. Wasn't planned, but worked out and I think proved the point. 👌
Buddy just got an Evo 250 (standard). It's the easiest starting Keihin bike that I've ridden, all the others I've tried don't start as well as my Dell'Ortos. The 250 combined with the slow throttle has a nice soft bottom end that will be nice for him to learn on and still plenty of power for hill climbs. The 6 speed shifts nice and has nice ratios. The front fender abomination is a joke, I told him they're weak and sure enough we got there to look at the bike and it was already broken. We swapped it to a Montesa brace and fender. The clutch is way heavier than my TRS, I got on in when I was tired and my hand was cramping up trying to ride it. We're going to look into spacers to reduce the clutch spring preload, and possibly swap to a smaller bore master cylinder.
Suggest gearing change from 11/42 to 10/42. Should work fine with 100 or 101-link chain, depending on where you like rear axle for proper wheelbase.
I went to 11-44. Guess I forgot to mention that. Had to lengthen the chain a little as well
My 2013 EVO 200 is the perfect bike for this 70 year old body. I came to this sport on a couple of years ago. Not too good at it but I have a blast every time I'm out on it. Left kick, no bother, start easy, yup, clutch drag, yup but it's a Beta thing. I will won't live to find the limits of this bike. (Does crud leak out of the header/silencer joint if you use the silencer as a handle? Yup.)
Awesome! Thanks for watching and your support 👍
Oh yeah - no clutch dragging on mine. Putting it down to Elf HTX740 oil. It’s like water thin… 👌
Thanks for sharing
Great video. Couple of comments: 1) the clutch dragginess seems dependent upon oil brand, oil age, oil fill level and bike specifics. My '21 200 Factory only starts to drag when the oil needs changing. My '16 would drag all the time, despite making the various clutch mods such as springs, removing glue from clutch plates, washers etc. I have found that Nils Trials Clutch Oil works the best in my bike. 2) both fenders are really fragile for the sport we do, though this is not 200 specific. Other brands have figured out the right plastic type and it is time Beta did something about it. 3) I agree this is a Goldilocks bike, and in speaking with more experienced riders who I have let try my bike, they always are surprised how rideable it is and how much power it has. As you say, just a few more revs are required for hit. Agree with Ray that anyone below the top expert levels should be on a 200 or maximum a 250.
Yes, it's interesting that the changes made to the 2025 don't include anything about the plastics. Thanks for sharing about the clutch, good insights 👍
Thanks for the oil tip - I have a GasGas but cannot eliminate residual clutch drag no matter what I do. Is the Nils Trials clutch oil 75W and have you noticed a difference compared to other oils of same grade, or what are you comparing it to?
@@robertslinger3811 Honestly I have *no idea* what grade the oil is, but one of our local GasGas guys swears by it also. The label says "Nils Trials Clutch Oil". I have compared it against Maxima 75W clutch oil, a variety of ATFs and a Motul transmission oil, and this is the only oil I'm going to use now. Plus it lasts at least twice as long as the Maxima I was using - the Maxima would start to drag at 20 hours, the Nils goes to more than 40 hours.
@@fprintf Great, thanks again.
I have a 2023 Gas Gas 250 GP with about four hours on it for sale if anyone is interested. Been inside air conditioned shop since new. Comes with helmets, boots and heavy springs for 210-240 lb riders. Bought it new and my son didn’t like riding it as much as his dirt bike.
I have always really enjoyed riding betas, for the reasons you point out, especially the power delivery @ 0-50%. The Evo is about the oldest design on the market & the fact that they have not addressed the problems pointed out since its inception is something I find frustrating. Deficiencies in both fenders (the front is just too short for muddy envs. so the rad gets caked, and the fragility & cost of the rear is horrific) & the cable routing around the headstock would not be difficult to improve, but probably the sale volume isn't there for them to be bothered to invest in the Evo. Whilst trials bike change little year on year, I feel the Evo is one of the most stagnant platforms around, even though they are nice to ride & have a really loyal following.
Good points. They did finally make some changes for 2025, but not in any of the areas just mentioned. 😂
@@TrialsProgression If you look at SSDT videos, you can see all the adjustments the Beta riders make fro the big challenge. The front fender is a particular problem, as the rad gets caked on the moors, then on the 15 miles of road to the next group the engine overheats & seizes. I expect John Lampkin's been telling them for 15 years to sort this out, but apparently to no avail. He has a downloadable guide on how to set up an Evo for the SSDT. The other Evo trick I have seen (in France, where steps are huge and rear fender damage is regular and always in the same place) is to cut a 5-8cm ring from an old inner tube & wrap it around the fender at the top of the airbox, taking out the two screws at the back (or replace with slack cable ties). This also works as a temporary fix if the fender cracks (as they always do) around these holes.
Do like the Beta more than your vertigo?
I do
Great observations Tom. I know you have Beta guru Ray Peters on your side for advice. One thing I have been told as far as clutch pull strength reduction is removing 2 of the clutch springs. I haven't done it as I have no issues with the pull effort. I'm told doing it has not produced any slippage. Good move on the hour meter. Mine has a vibration triggered hour meter so no external wires are required. I made a swap to a Jitsie brake pedal with a larger extended contact area. I really like it. I'm going to disagree with you on the 200 being the "unicorn". I've mentioned this to you before but, I've spent a brief amount of time on the Factory 200 and I've come away with feeling my 300 Super Smooth is even more forgiving and mild-mannered. Yes, the 200 has all the power you'll need but the power delivery of the Super Smooth is pure butter. Big ol' pussy cat. Heavy flywheel so it really chugs down low and kicks over just as easy as the 200 due to the low compression. II've even ridden the regular 200 and found it requires more anticipation on making sure I have the engine in the right rpm range. I've let others take it for a spin and the common theme mentioned is how the SS really inspires confidence. There might be some bells and whistles on the Factory as far as suspension and components but I doubt we would even notice. I would be interested in your opinion if you ever get the chance to give the Super Smooth a try.
Thanks for sharing and now you got me curious to try a SS as well. 🤔 Maybe someone will have one at Trials Training Days in a couple months and I can take it for a spin. 👍
Damit der Beta kotflügel nicht bricht muss man die hinteren Schrauben gegen kabelbinder tauschen.
Thanks. I'll give that a try
Raccoon hands for the fuel cap 🤣
🤣🤣🤣🤣 best comment
I've rode a few trials on a 200 but have to say I prefer the more torque from a 250
Yeah, I hear ya.
The dangers of getting into online rabbit holes: Buying these kind of gutless bikes.
Getting a gutless bike will never make anyone a better rider. Riding 300cc bikes makes anyone a better rider because it will make you work on your body position a lot more. In Spain they put 7 yo kids on 300cc, Toni is one of the main advocates of this. On the internet we put heavy adults on gutless bikes.
I’m sorry yo break your bubble but had betas and almost every other brand and this is just a very mediocre bike that will start soon falling apart and whose components were old 10 years ago let alone now.
My first bike was a 280 05 gas gas which as a start bike was a bit of a handful I only started to get better when I got a 250