A note on the UPS. It has to be a full time UPS to actually filter power issues. There are 2 types of a UPS. One that feeds the AC power through to the UPS sockets and then switches to the inverter on power dips. The other type always feeds inverter power to the UPS sockets. The switching supply will "help" during brown outs or voltage dips but will not prevent problems. I've had to replace a switched UPS for a full time UPS on industrial control equipment, because the switched UPS did not prevent occasional issues from cropping up. We have poor power quality in the Rocky Mtns, especially during the summer when thunderstorms roll through. I obtained a print out from a logging full time UPS from a company's IT dept. The print out for a single 24 hour period was 2 pages of single spaced reports at one line per incident. This listed all of the under voltage, over voltage, and extremely fast power drop outs that occurred during that time frame on a June day, where a couple of thunderstorms rolled through.
@@kid-savage6261 They are called an Online or double conversion UPS and the cost is much more with this type. The next best is a line interactive that maintains voltage on the output when under and over voltage conditions occur. Just look for those types or ask the manufacturer which models fall into those categories.
@@kid-savage6261 If you can afford it, it's an SPS (standby power system), not a true UPS (uninterruptable) ;-) All consumer models are SPS. True UPS systems are labeled "double conversion", "online", "continuous conversion", et al. The big downside (besides cost and size) is that they are very inefficient and will increase your power bill by at least 15%. They're also a lot louder since they need to run active cooling components (fans) all the time to ensure the conversion hardware is within thermal limits. In a print farm you are constantly drawing significant currents. A more practical approach is to rely on SPS's and "Line Isolation Transformers" essentially splitting the work between a component to provide backup power and a component to filter (condition) the available power source (whether line or backup). SPS's (consumer UPS) make VERY BAD QUALITY power when running on their batteries and this kind of power is very hard on consumer grade AC/DC power supplies' input capacitors and rectifier diodes (like the kind found in Bamboo, Prusa, FLSun, et al. printers). The reason is that these SPS's make psuedo-sine wave power, not true AC. So the input filter components in the AC/DC power supply in the printer have to absorb and source significant amounts of energy on each cycle to smooth things out. This generates more heat in the input components than is normally there. Some parts may fail if this condition persists or occurs frequently.
Why not just put a longer PTFE tube from the back of the printer around to the filament hanger? Then you wouldn't need to reach behind it and blindly feed the filament into the printer.
Well finally pulled the trigger and purchased a Bambu P1S with the AMS attachment and 4 spools of filament to get started, used your link so hopefully that will put a little extra coin in your pocket. Looking forward to watching more videos from you.
I love the videos on both of your channels. Keep up the great work. You personally have inspired me to get involved in the print farm industry. Thank you.
I will say for the p1s setup a biqu big tree pandatouch screen will let you link them all and start a print across 10 printers at the same time, this is somewhat like using the computer slicer but portable and if printing the same part may just save you some time being able to walk around with it. Just an FYI about something that may help with production across the board
My rack to the wall, I use a TPU block and wool pad as a buffer so the vibrations don't transfer into the wall and resonate. Just had an idea to make a hollow TPU block with a baffled hole in it to act as a dampener/shock 🤔 About the electrical though. Most common UPS do not condition your electricity and only have basic over voltage protection which wears out of the years, and only really have "simulated since wave" which is a dirty stepped sine wave that you only see while running off the battery so it doesn't damage the equipment. The only UPS's I've seen with that are rack mounted massive units that cost well over 1K. A good filter/conditioner is about $50-80 and an active reconditioner that is always reforming the electricity is about $150, you see them on the back of large printers at banks and schools and small servers. They look like large bricks with 1 or two ponytails. Those are awesome, you can get jumping 90v-100v from the wall and you'll always see 120v solid on the other end. When shopping realize they have two models, ones that are 10amp,15amp, 18amp and 20amp
Hey bud, great video! You forgot to mention bolting the shelves to the walls... which I really hope you're doing... Earthquakes happen ;) Also, I would recommend just extending the PTFE tube to be 20cm or so, so you can actually load the printers from the front/side. Run it almost all the way to the roll, but not so close that it'll wrap around the roll. It'll make it SO much easier to load filament ;)
We actually don't bolt anything to the walls, though definitely a good idea if you're in an earthquake prone area! Also, I've extended the PTFE tubes on some but one thing to consider is that it actually changes the back-pressure of the filament being fed and could result in some print issues. This can be adjusted in the slicer if that happens but something to consider!
Would be curious to hear how you add a new machine and manage it on the software side of things? On of the first things we typically do is reflash firmware and setup software integrations but we also run open source (Klipper) and a custom SCADA which needs a bit more tweaking.
With your reverse thread on the spool hanger, why not have the spool feed from the bottom rather than the top. Then the thread wouldnt need to be reverse and muscle memory being what it is, everything is kept at the status quo. Seems easier to adapt placement/position than to redesign the wheel.
Just to be clear, those circuit breakers are only able to handle 80% of their load continuously so 15A can handle 12A of load and 20A can handle 16A. As long as they all aren't in the warm up phase though, then you should be able to get away with the number of printers you stated.
A minor adjustment, I know, but perhaps make the support bracket for the filament redirection roller a bit deeper, just to be sure that the filament doesn't escape; probably not entirely necessary, but if it was me I would feel a bit more comfortable with that little bit of added redundancy. Good tips nonetheless
The cinderblock and foam thing didnt do anything for print quality for me but it made it much quieter for apartment living. I'm definitely not running a print farm but that was a huge QoL change for me. Fan noise doesnt bother me as I'm running a window AC anyways but the movement sounds made me worried I was going to bother my neighbors
In fact, your UPS only filters (actively) when the current is bad. It does, however, constantly protect against voltage surges and spikes. Then I don't understand why you bought one for each machine, that's so overkill
I run only 2 Bambu printers, but the most egregious thing with them is the software for controlling each printer. Having to go to the device tab and flip back and forth between the printers, resyncing the AMS's and then finally being able to slice and print has been one of the more time consuming and confusing parts. I'd be really interested to see what kind of system you use to properly organize and send print jobs out to all of these P1S'. Thanks.
I'm guessing that Bambu will release an update at some point to help manage print farms. I've got 12 right now and it does start to become a pain to manage. I'd guess Bambu will want to keep customers like us happy since we order so many.
US really got fucked by Edison when it comes to power. Standard EU room circuit can pull ~5kW without issue and if you want to go bigger with three phase that ususally every house has with 380-440v u can pull up to 10kW without problem, for crying out loud my induction stove is pulling 7kW on full load :"D
I'm really interested in how you calibrate your printers out of the box and if you do any calibration after a set amount of time. I'm sure the P1S comes pre-calibrated and ready-to-print, but I would also assume you need to go a step beyond to ensure the prints *always* come out great and are exactly to spec.
the A1 min, A1, P1P, P1S and X1C auto calibrates everything on each print, unless you manually disable it (flowrate only on the X1 and maybe A1 series from what I remember). other than that, they have a 15 min calibration program you run for the initial setup and again if you move it around, as that's calibrating the vibration stuff in the printer and ringing with what shelves and that that you have them places in/on.
No update on the other video for the Prusa input shaping. My Prusa mini with input shaping cut printing times in more than half, and on small prints it is just about as fast as my X1c (mostly because of the very short startup time compared to the X1c).
You pack a lot into a short video. Neat. Have you been running the individual UPSs long enough to get a feel for how often you need to replace the batteries? My farm is only 10 machines but I'm still concerned that if I put them on individual UPSs I'll find further down the road that I'm spending a lot on the batteries. Is that an issue?
Do you print everything from the SD-card in the printer or do you send everything over Wi-fi? If its the latter.. how do you control, monitor and structure everything? I currently have 4 P1Ps and its already a mess running multiple instances of Bambu Studio.
@@UnderearthEDO Yeah you can, but my issue is we have multi-color sets split per set, which means controlling multiple AMS:s containing different color setups etc. So we need every set with every color setup as one file, then we have around 50 unique sets of those. Its a mess! I dont think they have proper multi-support for that yet, opening 4+ instances of bambu studio is taxing on the PC to say the least :D
Thanks for the very helpful video! I wonder how you manage and distribute your files between the different printers without uploading them to the cloud? I figure the X1 series printers have such an option, but the P1(s) does not?
Got any video of that rack with all the printers going? Just bought the same rack and I wanted to see what the shake was like. My main concern is I want to put a Resin printer on the bottom shelf, and a 2 Bambu X1C on the mid shelf. Curious if the Vibration from the X1Cs would cause any issue to the Resin Vat
Question. How do you deal with the filament "poop" on those printers? Considering getting into the business and heavily looking at these units. Thanks.
What are the dimensions of the 3/4" MDF you cut for the Performax shelf you listed? I'd like to order precut sections, I'm no carpenter. My shelf hasn't arrived yet.
How do you deal with the poop shoot on the p1s machines since they are up against a wall and it purges out of the back of the machine? That’s still my #1 struggle with these machines
RE vibration dampening.... I'm with you! But... check out Makers Muse, he's pretty much proven that modern printers compensate for vibrations very well. Even successfully printing on a printer suspended from a wire hanging from the ceiling, bouncing all over the place!
Why should he ? The whole space is temperature and humidy controlled and he has a print farm, I don't think a roll, even a 2kg or 3kg one, last enough time once opened to the point humidity is a problem.
I guess if you have a controlled climate to print in then that’s fortunate. But in some countries an open roll of filament even PLA can spoil in a matter of hours. Like where I am the humidity high today is 94% and the average is 87%. Not ideal.
He buys high quality filament (I remember him saying Protopasta I think) in bulk which likely means it goes straight off the production line onto a pallet that’s shipped out to him. Filament manufacturers typically take extra care in their bulk shipments because a pallet of bad filament can ruin a client’s production
@@KolMan2000 High quality filament doesn't mean it doesn't get ruined by humidity though. On UA-cam you see so many guys with their filaments out on racks. but they're also in the US. You simply couldn't do that in the UK for example. Well you could if you don't mind removing hairs, weaker parts, air bubbles etc
@@bonjipoomy point was that it doesn’t have time to absorb moisture in the factory before going in a sealed package then is only opened when going straight on the production line at a print farm. It takes weeks to months even with a humid environment before a spool of most filaments absorbs enough moisture to become unusable, and it’s likely the spools in his print farm don’t last more than a couple weeks at most.
What print plates to you use. My brand new pei sheet that came with my p1s just doesn’t like to have prints stick anymore I’ve tried washing it and raising temps even using a brim. Nothing
"*The P1 Series Extruder Unit comes with stainless steel extruder gear. Users can upgrade it to hardened steel extruder gear for better abrasion resistance to engineering filaments." I guess it depends on what you're printing. Nevermind.
I mean no offense but does people really use print-farm services? I have a hard time imagining that I would design something myself and then send it away instead of printing it myself.
Shapeways' bankruptcy says no, they don't. But he's not setting up a print farm for print-on-demand services, and neither are most of the people setting up print farms. He has specific products that he sells himself (one of his businesses is custom dust collection ports for miter saws, see other videos he's made). As your client base grows, the only way to scale is through more printers.
A note on the UPS. It has to be a full time UPS to actually filter power issues. There are 2 types of a UPS. One that feeds the AC power through to the UPS sockets and then switches to the inverter on power dips. The other type always feeds inverter power to the UPS sockets. The switching supply will "help" during brown outs or voltage dips but will not prevent problems. I've had to replace a switched UPS for a full time UPS on industrial control equipment, because the switched UPS did not prevent occasional issues from cropping up. We have poor power quality in the Rocky Mtns, especially during the summer when thunderstorms roll through. I obtained a print out from a logging full time UPS from a company's IT dept. The print out for a single 24 hour period was 2 pages of single spaced reports at one line per incident. This listed all of the under voltage, over voltage, and extremely fast power drop outs that occurred during that time frame on a June day, where a couple of thunderstorms rolled through.
How can you tell the difference when purchasing a UPS?
@@kid-savage6261 They are called an Online or double conversion UPS and the cost is much more with this type. The next best is a line interactive that maintains voltage on the output when under and over voltage conditions occur. Just look for those types or ask the manufacturer which models fall into those categories.
@@swdw973 Thank you for the information
@@kid-savage6261 If you can afford it, it's an SPS (standby power system), not a true UPS (uninterruptable) ;-) All consumer models are SPS. True UPS systems are labeled "double conversion", "online", "continuous conversion", et al. The big downside (besides cost and size) is that they are very inefficient and will increase your power bill by at least 15%. They're also a lot louder since they need to run active cooling components (fans) all the time to ensure the conversion hardware is within thermal limits. In a print farm you are constantly drawing significant currents. A more practical approach is to rely on SPS's and "Line Isolation Transformers" essentially splitting the work between a component to provide backup power and a component to filter (condition) the available power source (whether line or backup). SPS's (consumer UPS) make VERY BAD QUALITY power when running on their batteries and this kind of power is very hard on consumer grade AC/DC power supplies' input capacitors and rectifier diodes (like the kind found in Bamboo, Prusa, FLSun, et al. printers). The reason is that these SPS's make psuedo-sine wave power, not true AC. So the input filter components in the AC/DC power supply in the printer have to absorb and source significant amounts of energy on each cycle to smooth things out. This generates more heat in the input components than is normally there. Some parts may fail if this condition persists or occurs frequently.
Why not just put a longer PTFE tube from the back of the printer around to the filament hanger? Then you wouldn't need to reach behind it and blindly feed the filament into the printer.
I was just about to say the same thing.
@@Kawalzki me too
He could extend it somewhat but too much and it will wear down pretty fast because of the bend in the PTFE tube and the filament running through it
Too much friction
It takes longer to load the printer.
Well finally pulled the trigger and purchased a Bambu P1S with the AMS attachment and 4 spools of filament to get started, used your link so hopefully that will put a little extra coin in your pocket. Looking forward to watching more videos from you.
was the printer worth it and what are you using it for?
I'm not looking to start a full on print farm but this gives me some great ideas for my single printer setup. Great ideas! Thanks for sharing
I love the videos on both of your channels. Keep up the great work. You personally have inspired me to get involved in the print farm industry. Thank you.
I will say for the p1s setup a biqu big tree pandatouch screen will let you link them all and start a print across 10 printers at the same time, this is somewhat like using the computer slicer but portable and if printing the same part may just save you some time being able to walk around with it. Just an FYI about something that may help with production across the board
My rack to the wall, I use a TPU block and wool pad as a buffer so the vibrations don't transfer into the wall and resonate.
Just had an idea to make a hollow TPU block with a baffled hole in it to act as a dampener/shock 🤔
About the electrical though. Most common UPS do not condition your electricity and only have basic over voltage protection which wears out of the years, and only really have "simulated since wave" which is a dirty stepped sine wave that you only see while running off the battery so it doesn't damage the equipment. The only UPS's I've seen with that are rack mounted massive units that cost well over 1K. A good filter/conditioner is about $50-80 and an active reconditioner that is always reforming the electricity is about $150, you see them on the back of large printers at banks and schools and small servers. They look like large bricks with 1 or two ponytails. Those are awesome, you can get jumping 90v-100v from the wall and you'll always see 120v solid on the other end. When shopping realize they have two models, ones that are 10amp,15amp, 18amp and 20amp
Regarding to what your saying about a good filter/conditoner, Do you have a recommended one you have or seen used? Im looking for a link if possible
Hey bud, great video! You forgot to mention bolting the shelves to the walls... which I really hope you're doing... Earthquakes happen ;)
Also, I would recommend just extending the PTFE tube to be 20cm or so, so you can actually load the printers from the front/side. Run it almost all the way to the roll, but not so close that it'll wrap around the roll. It'll make it SO much easier to load filament ;)
We actually don't bolt anything to the walls, though definitely a good idea if you're in an earthquake prone area! Also, I've extended the PTFE tubes on some but one thing to consider is that it actually changes the back-pressure of the filament being fed and could result in some print issues. This can be adjusted in the slicer if that happens but something to consider!
Would be curious to hear how you add a new machine and manage it on the software side of things? On of the first things we typically do is reflash firmware and setup software integrations but we also run open source (Klipper) and a custom SCADA which needs a bit more tweaking.
With your reverse thread on the spool hanger, why not have the spool feed from the bottom rather than the top. Then the thread wouldnt need to be reverse and muscle memory being what it is, everything is kept at the status quo. Seems easier to adapt placement/position than to redesign the wheel.
I bet unpacking that and setting it up was so much fun.
Wow, I didn't realize that this wasn't Slant3D. You two look REALLY similar!
haha that's actually true.
Just to be clear, those circuit breakers are only able to handle 80% of their load continuously so 15A can handle 12A of load and 20A can handle 16A. As long as they all aren't in the warm up phase though, then you should be able to get away with the number of printers you stated.
I’m ahead oof the class! Already set some of these up piecing it from your other channel! 😁
Great video - thanks for the overview of topics to consider when setting up a single printer or a complete print farm.
A minor adjustment, I know, but perhaps make the support bracket for the filament redirection roller a bit deeper, just to be sure that the filament doesn't escape; probably not entirely necessary, but if it was me I would feel a bit more comfortable with that little bit of added redundancy. Good tips nonetheless
The cinderblock and foam thing didnt do anything for print quality for me but it made it much quieter for apartment living. I'm definitely not running a print farm but that was a huge QoL change for me. Fan noise doesnt bother me as I'm running a window AC anyways but the movement sounds made me worried I was going to bother my neighbors
In fact, your UPS only filters (actively) when the current is bad. It does, however, constantly protect against voltage surges and spikes. Then I don't understand why you bought one for each machine, that's so overkill
I run 3 printers through each UPS, they all don’t have their own
I'd be very interested to see how you perform maintenance on your bambu printers at scale!
I also would like to hear how maintenance schedule is defined and performed on printers running continuously.
I run only 2 Bambu printers, but the most egregious thing with them is the software for controlling each printer. Having to go to the device tab and flip back and forth between the printers, resyncing the AMS's and then finally being able to slice and print has been one of the more time consuming and confusing parts. I'd be really interested to see what kind of system you use to properly organize and send print jobs out to all of these P1S'. Thanks.
I'm guessing that Bambu will release an update at some point to help manage print farms. I've got 12 right now and it does start to become a pain to manage. I'd guess Bambu will want to keep customers like us happy since we order so many.
Thank you for the great content all the time.
US really got fucked by Edison when it comes to power. Standard EU room circuit can pull ~5kW without issue and if you want to go bigger with three phase that ususally every house has with 380-440v u can pull up to 10kW without problem, for crying out loud my induction stove is pulling 7kW on full load :"D
Which hot end and nozzle do you currently use on your Bambu Lab printers? Your videos are so incredibly helpful.
Wow! Thank you for sharing the spool hangers! :) 👍👍👍
How about initial calibrations? Video from your perspective will be excellent!
Are you relying on moisture conditioning the whole room since you are printing a lot of petg?
It's probably not a big issue if he uses up the filament fast.
power consumption bit was a good tip.
I'm really interested in how you calibrate your printers out of the box and if you do any calibration after a set amount of time. I'm sure the P1S comes pre-calibrated and ready-to-print, but I would also assume you need to go a step beyond to ensure the prints *always* come out great and are exactly to spec.
the A1 min, A1, P1P, P1S and X1C auto calibrates everything on each print, unless you manually disable it (flowrate only on the X1 and maybe A1 series from what I remember). other than that, they have a 15 min calibration program you run for the initial setup and again if you move it around, as that's calibrating the vibration stuff in the printer and ringing with what shelves and that that you have them places in/on.
No update on the other video for the Prusa input shaping. My Prusa mini with input shaping cut printing times in more than half, and on small prints it is just about as fast as my X1c (mostly because of the very short startup time compared to the X1c).
Have you considered selling the spool holders? I would be in for a 6 pack.
You pack a lot into a short video. Neat. Have you been running the individual UPSs long enough to get a feel for how often you need to replace the batteries? My farm is only 10 machines but I'm still concerned that if I put them on individual UPSs I'll find further down the road that I'm spending a lot on the batteries. Is that an issue?
Do you print everything from the SD-card in the printer or do you send everything over Wi-fi? If its the latter.. how do you control, monitor and structure everything? I currently have 4 P1Ps and its already a mess running multiple instances of Bambu Studio.
As far as i'm aware you can have one instance open with multiple plates which you send to each printer?
In another video they have standard parts they print. All on SD cards
@@UnderearthEDO Yeah you can, but my issue is we have multi-color sets split per set, which means controlling multiple AMS:s containing different color setups etc. So we need every set with every color setup as one file, then we have around 50 unique sets of those. Its a mess!
I dont think they have proper multi-support for that yet, opening 4+ instances of bambu studio is taxing on the PC to say the least :D
300W on 110V, 1000W on 220V. things are sooo different.....
Thanks for the very helpful video! I wonder how you manage and distribute your files between the different printers without uploading them to the cloud? I figure the X1 series printers have such an option, but the P1(s) does not?
can you video record one of your machines just printing on that shelf? im sure it wobbles a little no ? some wobble is ok correct?
hi,
do you have a video about managing the printjobs of your printfarm?
coulnd't find one yet.
kind regards
Tom
Glad that I live in a country with 240V ... with 16A circuit I can run easy 12 machines with some spare watt.
P1S draws 1000W on heat up phase. so on 16A you can run 3 not 12
Got any video of that rack with all the printers going? Just bought the same rack and I wanted to see what the shake was like. My main concern is I want to put a Resin printer on the bottom shelf, and a 2 Bambu X1C on the mid shelf. Curious if the Vibration from the X1Cs would cause any issue to the Resin Vat
Nice video! Thanks!
Is there a good rack alternative you can buy in Europe?
For ups, how many printers do you run on a single ups? 1 each or couple?
what is the hardened nozzle/hot end you recommend?
Filaments look so familiar🤣🤣
Question. How do you deal with the filament "poop" on those printers? Considering getting into the business and heavily looking at these units. Thanks.
what about the nozzle cleaner addition?
What are the dimensions of the 3/4" MDF you cut for the Performax shelf you listed? I'd like to order precut sections, I'm no carpenter. My shelf hasn't arrived yet.
I’m not in the business, just very interested. May I ask why own a production farm vs using slant for orders to fulfillment?
How do you deal with the poop shoot on the p1s machines since they are up against a wall and it purges out of the back of the machine? That’s still my #1 struggle with these machines
Does it poop shoot without color transitions? I believe he uses a single color per printer
Looks like they are not using multiple materials, so no purging is needed.
The machine purges at the start of every print. Even for single color prints
Unless of course he’s modified the code to not purge at the start of each print. I guess that alone would take care of the issue 😂
Why do you choose the P1S over the P1P? It does not look like you need an enclosure because you use prusas.
What concessions are made from choosing P1S over the X1C? Does the extra ~$500 saving outweigh any potential downsides?
RE vibration dampening.... I'm with you! But... check out Makers Muse, he's pretty much proven that modern printers compensate for vibrations very well. Even successfully printing on a printer suspended from a wire hanging from the ceiling, bouncing all over the place!
I did watch that video, super interesting! I was shocked by the results
very nice
Where can i find big spools?
Why not just extend the PTFE tube at the back, to the front?
Do you print ABS or ASA? What do you do about fumes?
Did you lose your other Company Shop nation or did you get sued?
i've noticed the kexcelled filament in the back. Where do you get it from? Do they still exist?
Fine. I’ll get rid of my French cleats.
Have you tracked how many hours of use it takes before you need to change the nozzle? (average)
How are you dealing with Moisture on these free hanging Spools?
Would really love to know the brand of those shelves
I think in another video he mentioned he got them at Menards.
What type of foam are you using for damping?
Where do you source your P1S', or is bambu directly pretty much the only option?
What size UPSs do you use?
So you don't use filament dryer.
Why should he ? The whole space is temperature and humidy controlled and he has a print farm, I don't think a roll, even a 2kg or 3kg one, last enough time once opened to the point humidity is a problem.
I guess if you have a controlled climate to print in then that’s fortunate. But in some countries an open roll of filament even PLA can spoil in a matter of hours. Like where I am the humidity high today is 94% and the average is 87%. Not ideal.
He buys high quality filament (I remember him saying Protopasta I think) in bulk which likely means it goes straight off the production line onto a pallet that’s shipped out to him. Filament manufacturers typically take extra care in their bulk shipments because a pallet of bad filament can ruin a client’s production
@@KolMan2000 High quality filament doesn't mean it doesn't get ruined by humidity though. On UA-cam you see so many guys with their filaments out on racks. but they're also in the US. You simply couldn't do that in the UK for example. Well you could if you don't mind removing hairs, weaker parts, air bubbles etc
@@bonjipoomy point was that it doesn’t have time to absorb moisture in the factory before going in a sealed package then is only opened when going straight on the production line at a print farm. It takes weeks to months even with a humid environment before a spool of most filaments absorbs enough moisture to become unusable, and it’s likely the spools in his print farm don’t last more than a couple weeks at most.
1:00 vibration DAMPing not Dampening 💦
Holy crap. I've said this wrong for so very, very long. :(
Damn - TIL - Damping: Engaging in the act of reducing vibrations. Dampening: Engaging in the act of making something damp (wet).
mind - blown!
What print plates to you use. My brand new pei sheet that came with my p1s just doesn’t like to have prints stick anymore I’ve tried washing it and raising temps even using a brim. Nothing
What did you wash it with, and what materials are you printing? Did you try bed leveling?
I've found that over time they get "stickier" with prints. Just wipe off with some IPA and run some parts through it
Where is the file for the corner pulley setup? I need that.
Nevermind bro I found it duh!!! lol. Thanks for giving ur knowledge to us as I have an ups on order. Also. How many printers u got into one
Re: Hardened nozzle
Don't forget to upgrade the gear too.
"*The P1 Series Extruder Unit comes with stainless steel extruder gear. Users can upgrade it to hardened steel extruder gear for better abrasion resistance to engineering filaments."
I guess it depends on what you're printing. Nevermind.
Exactly, yeah if I was printing composite materials I would 100% recommend that
Protopasta? LOL - You can't possibly be saving enough in labor to afford that stuff.
worth it!
You’d be surprised how cheap you can get it buying in bulk and paying ach
How do you handle all the printer poop?
It's a mess...haven't found a great solution besides a broom yet!
deffo needs timestamps
I mean no offense but does people really use print-farm services? I have a hard time imagining that I would design something myself and then send it away instead of printing it myself.
Shapeways' bankruptcy says no, they don't. But he's not setting up a print farm for print-on-demand services, and neither are most of the people setting up print farms. He has specific products that he sells himself (one of his businesses is custom dust collection ports for miter saws, see other videos he's made). As your client base grows, the only way to scale is through more printers.
2nd comment