Doing my 72 Duster right now, Daunting task for a newbie like me. Did the drivers side first, spent more time on youtube, Amazon,Rock auto and down at NAPA than actually turning a wrench. But thanks to resources like you, Chris fix, Jonny Mopar and my Hanes manual and after exhausting my fbomb / cuss word vocabulary and after sacrificing much blood, sweat, tears and knuckleskin to the Mopar gods (this Duster was probably actually a Dodge Demon; I know it is possessed) it is done and I can move on to the passenger side and do that side quickly and with confidence and experience.
Do an online search for the 1972 Plymouth factory service manual. It’s not Duster-specific, it includes the whole car line. You can find it for free and then read it in your computer or phone and print out disposable pages for when you’re working. If you can’t find it, let me know…
Great video! It shows the reality of what can go right/wrong. I have a '71 Cuda with a noise in the passenger side suspension. This has already shown me where I might look for an issue. Thanks!
Doing this (fun) stuff on my '74 Challenger right now. My driver's side torsion bar was so stuck the tool did not help. I wound up putting a roto-hammer on it and that did the job. The lower control arm bushing replacements are a bear. I am putting in the new ones tonight and then back to the alignment shop when I put it all back together. This video is super helpful as I really don't know what I am doing and this helps me retrace my steps.
Yeah I have seen cars with more miles or seen worse weather be really tough to disassemble. I really appreciate hearing the video was helpful and you enjoyed it, that means a lot to me!
This is great, thank you so much for making this video! I need to do my 70 challenger. The original suspension with 300,000 miles on it it’s so roached it’s no longer drivable and eating tires.
Thank you for this video ! I rebuilt my Road Runner front end and I thought I was the only one struggling on these two ball joints! Everything is easy in UA-cam tutorials, but not in reality. 😁 I buyed an "heavy duty" extractor like yours and its done !
Thanks for the video. I'm restoring a roadrunner in Greece and I'm gonna go through the suspension soon! Man your forearm right next to that lever of the jack stand made me so nervous. I hate these jacks!
To bust the tapers apart, the best way I've found is to get two BIG HAMMERS. You use one hammer like an anvil against the side of the part that is the female taper, and with the other BFH in your other(dominant) hand you take a good swing striking the other side of the part with the female taper. If you hit it solidly it should momentarily distort the internal taper and spit the male taper out. It doesn't do any permanent damage to the tapers. Tip: after removing cotter pin and loosening the nut, unscrew the nut until there's only a couple threads holding the nut on. This will protect the threads should you happen to miss the target on your swing. It will also keep the parts from flying off and damaging something.
@@backyardhotrods9885 No sweat! It depends on how things go over the next few weeks, but I may have finally found my own E-body project - namely a real 1970 U-code 4 speed Challenger. She needs a lot of work, and your videos would help immensely.
Are you planning a disc brake conversion? I had drums, but the first time I hit the brakes on the highway, I knew I had to switch. I now have spindles and rotors from a '73 with a Kelsey-Hayes adjustable brake proportioning valve from "Direct Connection!" I see they have kits now that will bolt on to your existing spindles. I don't know if that's better. Oh, and while I had it apart, I replaced all the lines and cylinders and used DOT 5 silicon brake fluid.
I am actually. 4 wheel drums aren’t going to cut it. Disc brake spindles have the best brake options compared to using drum spindles with discs. I have new lines already. I’m hoping it works with whatever I decide to use. Do you have rear drums still?
The only problem I had was with the power brake booster. It was a larger diameter than the ones that came on the earlier model cars and it interfered with my temperature control cable (AC car).
The first time I used a picklefork was on my 70 Cuda in 1970. It separated the tie rods from the center link OK, but it destroyed the boots, which of course were brand new. That's when I found the two hammer technique.
You wasted $40 on that t-bar tool. Totally unnecessary. After disconnecting strut rod from LCA, if you remove the LCA pivot shaft nut & washer, you just stick a big pry bar between the back of the x-member and the forward face of the LCA and just pry the LCA backwards. It'll push the t-bar back out of the rear hex socket, no muss, no fuss. No scratching the t-bar, no hammering.
This is the most unrealistic video I have ever seen. No offense but did you you get this car out of a time capsule? My kitchen counter isn't that new and clean.
Doing my 72 Duster right now, Daunting task for a newbie like me. Did the drivers side first, spent more time on youtube, Amazon,Rock auto and down at NAPA than actually turning a wrench. But thanks to resources like you, Chris fix, Jonny Mopar and my Hanes manual and after exhausting my fbomb / cuss word vocabulary and after sacrificing much blood, sweat, tears and knuckleskin to the Mopar gods (this Duster was probably actually a Dodge Demon; I know it is possessed) it is done and I can move on to the passenger side and do that side quickly and with confidence and experience.
Do an online search for the 1972 Plymouth factory service manual. It’s not Duster-specific, it includes the whole car line. You can find it for free and then read it in your computer or phone and print out disposable pages for when you’re working. If you can’t find it, let me know…
Great video! It shows the reality of what can go right/wrong. I have a '71 Cuda with a noise in the passenger side suspension. This has already shown me where I might look for an issue. Thanks!
Great video. Now I know what I'm in for. That is some chill background music too. Thanks bud.
Thanks glad you enjoyed it 👍
I'm in southwest Michigan! 1974 plymouth scamp!
Doing this (fun) stuff on my '74 Challenger right now. My driver's side torsion bar was so stuck the tool did not help. I wound up putting a roto-hammer on it and that did the job. The lower control arm bushing replacements are a bear. I am putting in the new ones tonight and then back to the alignment shop when I put it all back together. This video is super helpful as I really don't know what I am doing and this helps me retrace my steps.
Yeah I have seen cars with more miles or seen worse weather be really tough to disassemble. I really appreciate hearing the video was helpful and you enjoyed it, that means a lot to me!
This is great, thank you so much for making this video! I need to do my 70 challenger. The original suspension with 300,000 miles on it it’s so roached it’s no longer drivable and eating tires.
Your welcome, glad you found it useful!
I’m fixing to do this on my 64 440 2 door hardtop
Thank you for this video ! I rebuilt my Road Runner front end and I thought I was the only one struggling on these two ball joints! Everything is easy in UA-cam tutorials, but not in reality. 😁 I buyed an "heavy duty" extractor like yours and its done !
Glad you found it helpful, thanks alot! When cheap tools break I don't mind too much....excuse to buy good tools lol
And thanks for subscribing!
Thanks for the video. I'm restoring a roadrunner in Greece and I'm gonna go through the suspension soon! Man your forearm right next to that lever of the jack stand made me so nervous. I hate these jacks!
Glad you enjoyed it Phil, all the way from Greece! Yeah watching these videos back I’m surprised what I see sometimes
Great video. Great job. Can’t wait to see how new parts come together.
Thanks, I appreciate it! I know, me too, soon!
To bust the tapers apart, the best way I've found is to get two BIG HAMMERS. You use one hammer like an anvil against the side of the part that is the female taper, and with the other BFH in your other(dominant) hand you take a good swing striking the other side of the part with the female taper. If you hit it solidly it should momentarily distort the internal taper and spit the male taper out. It doesn't do any permanent damage to the tapers.
Tip: after removing cotter pin and loosening the nut, unscrew the nut until there's only a couple threads holding the nut on. This will protect the threads should you happen to miss the target on your swing. It will also keep the parts from flying off and damaging something.
great tips there!
Awesome video buddy.. keep up the great work 🔥👍
Moog makes a K3180 lower control arm bumper, sold on Amazon for $7.22, but it does not have the "square shoulder" to keep it from rotating.
Good to know that thanks! If mine don't clean up decently I will have to look into them
Good videos, I'm from S/E Michigan
Nice, I'm in Oakland twp. how about you?
Shoot we probably know some of the same Mopar guys in SE Mi.
I'm in Warren
@@backyardhotrods9885
Is there a video where you re-assemble the front end? Thanks.
Great video sir, looks awesome 😎
Thanks my man!
Looks great. Are those TTI headers?
Yes they are
@@backyardhotrods9885 what’s your quick take on em? I have a set that I plan to put in my 440/b body.
I think they are the best choice for Mopars. Not cheap but good quality and fit
@@backyardhotrods9885 Thank you for the info and great videos. I’m about to do the same and it’s nice to have an idea of what to expect 👍
Very kool, good luck. Nice to hear sone + feedback 👍
Great upload, thank you!
Thanks Matt I appreciate it!
@@backyardhotrods9885 No sweat!
It depends on how things go over the next few weeks, but I may have finally found my own E-body project - namely a real 1970 U-code 4 speed Challenger. She needs a lot of work, and your videos would help immensely.
@@mattgbarr That would be a great find, I hope it works out for you man! Glad to hear you enjoy the videos.
I had to buy my ball joint socket from the Snap-On truck because there was no internet yet. I bought the 3/4" adapter at Sears!
Where at in S.E. Michigan? I live in N.E. Indiana.
Rochester
Are you planning a disc brake conversion? I had drums, but the first time I hit the brakes on the highway, I knew I had to switch. I now have spindles and rotors from a '73 with a Kelsey-Hayes adjustable brake proportioning valve from "Direct Connection!" I see they have kits now that will bolt on to your existing spindles. I don't know if that's better. Oh, and while I had it apart, I replaced all the lines and cylinders and used DOT 5 silicon brake fluid.
I am actually. 4 wheel drums aren’t going to cut it. Disc brake spindles have the best brake options compared to using drum spindles with discs. I have new lines already. I’m hoping it works with whatever I decide to use. Do you have rear drums still?
@@backyardhotrods9885 Yes, I still have the rear drums. They seem to work well together.
The only problem I had was with the power brake booster. It was a larger diameter than the ones that came on the earlier model cars and it interfered with my temperature control cable (AC car).
Was that puller that broke from Harbor Freight? I got mine at NAPA, hope it's better!
I bought many years ago at a auto parts store
That puller, like he used, is NOT made for ball joints. I believe that is for removing the pitman arm off of the steering box.
@@budlanctot3060 True. I used a cheap "pickle fork" tool, and it worked, but it didn't definitely didn't seem ideal!
The first time I used a picklefork was on my 70 Cuda in 1970. It separated the tie rods from the center link OK, but it destroyed the boots, which of course were brand new. That's when I found the two hammer technique.
Is torsion bar supposed to be loosened before you take everything apart?
Yes
You wasted $40 on that t-bar tool. Totally unnecessary. After disconnecting strut rod from LCA, if you remove the LCA pivot shaft nut & washer, you just stick a big pry bar between the back of the x-member and the forward face of the LCA and just pry the LCA backwards. It'll push the t-bar back out of the rear hex socket, no muss, no fuss. No scratching the t-bar, no hammering.
Can't hear you. Stereo on high!. Like mumbles.
This is the most unrealistic video I have ever seen. No offense but did you you get this car out of a time capsule? My kitchen counter isn't that new and clean.
Thanks for the great video
your welcome, glad you enjoyed it!