Hey, thanks for showing your steering box venture. I think it was definitely worth the try on your part. You still may get it straightened out. I'll be rebuilding mine in the future. Good to have your video as a reference
Dean, great video and you are 100% correct about nobody else on the web doing what you just did. On my '66 Newport, I had the same problem as we all do with the aged Mopars and those seals. I did exactly what you did but with a bone yard box. I sent my 43K mile original up to Washington state and had them rebuild but as you also note, for big bucks. At least I had some recourse if it was not right, but while I waited, did the bone yard box and drove that for 6 months. It too had the same exact pulling. One difference for me was it was a newer box that had a different internal spline count. Something about it being a '73 and newer box, but that wouldn't have made a difference. What I found was, I needed to take apart the top valve body and clean it out. I went by the shop manual and I'm glad I did because they warn you about using emery cloth to clean things as taking down the sharp edged of the bore of the valve body, can change the break-away for the fluid as you turn the steering wheel from one side or the other. If you haven't tried that you might want to. If it works for you, you should be able to get some of the side-to-side adjustment back on the valve body. If not, you always have the experience. FYI, the newer box I used, still had a bias but not a pulling away bias. It was different enough that I had to re-align the front end. When I put the original box back in after getting it rebuilt, I had to re-align back. The boxes back then for the A, B and C bodies (except Imperials) are supposed to be the same (at least in '66). Awesome work guys!!! And thanks again for that sub the other day. I'm still lagging but when it stays above 50 in a month, I'll get back to making a few vids.
Thanks for the info, We are going to pull it back apart and go a little deeper into it and will post an update. We are from Tennessee so we know a little bit about the cold weather and we hear you. Try to stay warm and we will be on the look out for your next vids.
@@NSBCustomCars Thank and good luck! It's been a while but if memory serves me correct, the one I had, made note that the piston had to be in like a top dead center when installed. I can't remember if it can be put in a few degrees either way which of course, would move the center of where the steering wheel ends up. Taking off the valve body and cleaning out that piston, might get that all taken out. If you take off the valve body, and if you see the valve pivot lever, leaning over to one side, then you might suspect the piston isn't quite dead center to the shaft teeth. You're already an expert so anything else you do, puts in the professor category. I'm about 60 miles south of Sin City (DC). It's always cold here in VA. It's a communizt kind of cold! Good luck!
@@NSBCustomCars oh and if you do take it out and apart again, if it were me, I would mark exactly where the position is Ferrule against the casing. That lets you know where the position of the whole power unit as it is lowered in...if in fact it can be moved around...you at least have a starting position. Take care!
Didn't turn out quite like we wanted but we couldn't find any other videos on these so we figured something was better than nothing. Thanks for watching!!
All you need to do is slide the control valve body forward or back to fix your box. You can do it in the car. You loosen the 2 control valve bolts, retighten to 84 inch pounds, start car, tap valve forward or back until it quits self steering, tighten to 200 inch pounds and you are done. After a rebuild never put your arm thru a steering wheel when you start your car, it can break your arm. I built a test rig with a pump, belt and 1/3hp electric motor to do them out of the car, works perfect.
We did try that and with the valve all the way one way it still wanted to turn. We think it is bypassing a seal internally so we just swapped it out. We are planning on giving it another shot when we get time so thanks for the info!! Good idea on the test rig, we talked about doing something like that.
I was thinking about doing that same repair and since I have to pull the header off, starter and I have the steering pulled I'm going to Classic industries also. Oh mine is a small block abody 72 Dart.
seems like that stud and nut part has something to do with the bias , could be wrong though since ive never messed with steering chunks before. i think youre right on the hemi being a junkyard part , the number on the valve cover is probably an inventory number . good luck with the bee
Thanks for the confirmation. Might be a good thing since the odometer on this car was over 300k. Watching your videos now and looking forward to seeing the finished product.
Hi guys. My steering box js leaking on my 68 Dart. It has a 273 in it. Can i get mine out wifhout pulling the column like you did? Im just going to replace the steering box rather than take it all apart like tbis. Have no idea why yours or mine is leaking. None of my other chrysler products have ever had that happen
Plymouth and Dodge from this period were notorius for steerig gear box wear leading to sloppy steering. My mothers 65 Barracuda, her 73 Dodge Dart, my 69' Plymouth Roadrunner and my grandmother 68' Coronet all generated very loose sloppy steering with age! Though my uncle 65 Ply. Fury did not. Perhaps the Fury's used a different gearbox since they were bigger cars.
Hope you have better luck than we did. We have a pretty good grasp on hydraulics but we could not quite figure out the vudu magic they have going on with this one or its just worn completely out and just seals is not going to fix it. We haven't gave up 100 percent yet. Thanks for watching!!
I tried it too on my 92 Cummins in my avatar. Ended up sending it to Red Head steering gearbox back in 2009 before they sold to the new owners. They really are a bear to get right. Good info to share. I just registered wed for the #nonamenationals. Could use your help with a sub. Especially since your a Cummins brother. See ya in MO. Thanks, Ron
Just checked and I already subscribed. I have been trying to watch the live streams and Johns community page and subing to everyone I can. Good luck on the 500 and I will be on the look out for your future videos to like and share.
We'll have to covoy up, if that's cool with you ? I am stoked to go. Yeah when I did my gear box. I finally got it right. But it was still a bit loose. So I sent the 84 gear box to Redhead and had them do it and added the qwik ratio to it. Of course it's been on the shelf since 09. She'll be going back on soon.
Thanks for doing this..
Good try, glad I didn’t attempt it myself on my 63 imperial. I’d rather pay someone to do it. I can’t take the disappointment. I was rooting for you 👍
Hey, thanks for showing your steering box venture. I think it was definitely worth the try on your part. You still may get it straightened out.
I'll be rebuilding mine in the future. Good to have your video as a reference
Thanks man, We got a good deal on new unit so we went that way... We may revisit this in the future....
Thank you so much u helped me tons merry Christmas nam darrin
Glad it helped and hope you had a Merry Christmas!!
Dean, great video and you are 100% correct about nobody else on the web doing what you just did. On my '66 Newport, I had the same problem as we all do with the aged Mopars and those seals. I did exactly what you did but with a bone yard box. I sent my 43K mile original up to Washington state and had them rebuild but as you also note, for big bucks. At least I had some recourse if it was not right, but while I waited, did the bone yard box and drove that for 6 months. It too had the same exact pulling. One difference for me was it was a newer box that had a different internal spline count. Something about it being a '73 and newer box, but that wouldn't have made a difference. What I found was, I needed to take apart the top valve body and clean it out. I went by the shop manual and I'm glad I did because they warn you about using emery cloth to clean things as taking down the sharp edged of the bore of the valve body, can change the break-away for the fluid as you turn the steering wheel from one side or the other. If you haven't tried that you might want to. If it works for you, you should be able to get some of the side-to-side adjustment back on the valve body. If not, you always have the experience. FYI, the newer box I used, still had a bias but not a pulling away bias. It was different enough that I had to re-align the front end. When I put the original box back in after getting it rebuilt, I had to re-align back. The boxes back then for the A, B and C bodies (except Imperials) are supposed to be the same (at least in '66). Awesome work guys!!! And thanks again for that sub the other day. I'm still lagging but when it stays above 50 in a month, I'll get back to making a few vids.
Thanks for the info, We are going to pull it back apart and go a little deeper into it and will post an update. We are from Tennessee so we know a little bit about the cold weather and we hear you. Try to stay warm and we will be on the look out for your next vids.
@@NSBCustomCars Thank and good luck! It's been a while but if memory serves me correct, the one I had, made note that the piston had to be in like a top dead center when installed. I can't remember if it can be put in a few degrees either way which of course, would move the center of where the steering wheel ends up. Taking off the valve body and cleaning out that piston, might get that all taken out. If you take off the valve body, and if you see the valve pivot lever, leaning over to one side, then you might suspect the piston isn't quite dead center to the shaft teeth. You're already an expert so anything else you do, puts in the professor category. I'm about 60 miles south of Sin City (DC). It's always cold here in VA. It's a communizt kind of cold! Good luck!
@@NSBCustomCars oh and if you do take it out and apart again, if it were me, I would mark exactly where the position is Ferrule against the casing. That lets you know where the position of the whole power unit as it is lowered in...if in fact it can be moved around...you at least have a starting position. Take care!
Thanks for the video 👍
Didn't turn out quite like we wanted but we couldn't find any other videos on these so we figured something was better than nothing. Thanks for watching!!
Thanks for your vid!
Thanks for watching, We didn't get the result we wanted but I hope this helped!!
Great video!
Thank you!!!
All you need to do is slide the control valve body forward or back to fix your box. You can do it in the car. You loosen the 2 control valve bolts, retighten to 84 inch pounds, start car, tap valve forward or back until it quits self steering, tighten to 200 inch pounds and you are done. After a rebuild never put your arm thru a steering wheel when you start your car, it can break your arm. I built a test rig with a pump, belt and 1/3hp electric motor to do them out of the car, works perfect.
We did try that and with the valve all the way one way it still wanted to turn. We think it is bypassing a seal internally so we just swapped it out. We are planning on giving it another shot when we get time so thanks for the info!! Good idea on the test rig, we talked about doing something like that.
Thanks for leaving the mess up in there incase that happens to us.
Hope it helps someone!!!
I was thinking about doing that same repair and since I have to pull the header off, starter and I have the steering pulled I'm going to Classic industries also. Oh mine is a small block abody 72 Dart.
We are still waiting for that new gear box from Classic to come in. Hopefully you have better luck than us. Thanks for watching!!!
seems like that stud and nut part has something to do with the bias , could be wrong though since ive never messed with steering chunks before. i think youre right on the hemi being a junkyard part , the number on the valve cover is probably an inventory number . good luck with the bee
We haven't given up completely yet. Been doing a little homework and if we figure it out we will do an update. Thanks for watching!!!
Those are exactly from the Junkyard for warranty. I was a used car dealer 20 years. Good eye.
Thanks for the confirmation. Might be a good thing since the odometer on this car was over 300k. Watching your videos now and looking forward to seeing the finished product.
Hi guys. My steering box js leaking on my 68 Dart. It has a 273 in it. Can i get mine out wifhout pulling the column like you did? Im just going to replace the steering box rather than take it all apart like tbis. Have no idea why yours or mine is leaking. None of my other chrysler products have ever had that happen
Pretty sure you will have to pull the column, Sorry for the late reply we have been swamped with work and have not had much time for UA-cam!!
Mine did the same thing the direction control shaft is upside down its not hard to do working great now
Thanks for watching!!
Plymouth and Dodge from this period were notorius for steerig gear box wear leading to sloppy steering. My mothers 65 Barracuda, her 73 Dodge Dart, my 69' Plymouth Roadrunner and my grandmother 68' Coronet all generated very loose sloppy steering with age! Though my uncle 65 Ply. Fury did not. Perhaps the Fury's used a different gearbox since they were bigger cars.
This one didn't get sloppy is was just leaking oil but I think the Fury's did us a different box but not a 100 percent sure. Thanks for watching!!
I just rebuilt mine today, and it wasn't all that hard. Replace all seals orings and bearing.
Awesome man!!
Never tried rebuilding my steering pump or steering gear I think I will be on my nova though
Hope you have better luck than we did. We have a pretty good grasp on hydraulics but we could not quite figure out the vudu magic they have going on with this one or its just worn completely out and just seals is not going to fix it. We haven't gave up 100 percent yet. Thanks for watching!!
I tried it too on my 92 Cummins in my avatar. Ended up sending it to Red Head steering gearbox back in 2009 before they sold to the new owners. They really are a bear to get right. Good info to share. I just registered wed for the #nonamenationals. Could use your help with a sub. Especially since your a Cummins brother. See ya in MO. Thanks, Ron
Just checked and I already subscribed. I have been trying to watch the live streams and Johns community page and subing to everyone I can. Good luck on the 500 and I will be on the look out for your future videos to like and share.
We'll have to covoy up, if that's cool with you ? I am stoked to go. Yeah when I did my gear box. I finally got it right. But it was still a bit loose. So I sent the 84 gear box to Redhead and had them do it and added the qwik ratio to it. Of course it's been on the shelf since 09. She'll be going back on soon.
@@NSBCustomCars Thank you I appreciate it.
Too much yakking. Third of the way through and nothing on the steering box. Ba-bye