Engine Hot AC Turned Off Solved Suburban Tahoe Silverado
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- Опубліковано 6 сер 2024
- New Sensor Connector: amzn.to/2DMiWjJ or amzn.to/3kF5XRy -or-amzn.to/3fSapsk
This video shows what finally worked to resolve the "Engine Hot A/C Turned Off" dash warning and a P1028 code on a 2007 - 2013 Chevy GM Suburban Tahoe Yukon Silverado. The code and the warning returned immediately after replacing the thermostat so I had to look further. Thanks for watching.
TO GET THE JOB DONE:
Coolant Sensor and Connector: The Video shows a Dorman 85100: amzn.to/2DMiWjJ
You can also use a Standard TX3A: amzn.to/3kF5XRy Or ACDELCO Brand: amzn.to/3fSapsk
ACDelco Coolant Sensor: amzn.to/3OchtDg
Wire Cutter/Stripper with crimp: amzn.to/2DTnWmm
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OBD-II CODE READER might be a good investment:
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For ABS dash light or SRS warning light, you need an ABS/SRS scanner.
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You Might Also Need: ACDelco Thermostat: amzn.to/30PHyRc
Thermostat housing: amzn.to/3alrmuj
ACDELCO Temperature Sensor (for 2007 - 2013 GM Truck. Confirm for your vehicle): amzn.to/2XXKV6S
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PROTECTIVE GEAR:
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Video Index:
0:16 The Dash Warning and the Typical Engine Code
0:33 Thermostat Location (OEM Thermostat: amzn.to/30PHyRc)
0:50 Coolant Sensor Location (OEM Temperature Sensor: amzn.to/2XXKV6S
1:18 The Damaged Sensor Plug and How that causes the Dash Warning
1:40 The New Sensor Plug amzn.to/2DMiWjJ
2:30 Prepping the Plug For Solder
2:54 Close-Up View of Damaged Plug
3:35 Heat Shrink Insulation Tubing amzn.to/3iyrFos
4:07 Soldering the Connection
4:54 Insulating the New Connection
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Nobel Peace Prize worthy for removing the stress of thousands of GM owners. Great engineering approach--start with the simple, logical approach--its a computer control getting an errant message, which means an electronic sensor somewhere (not a mechanical part) is triggering false indications. Great diagnosis approach and video demo. Many thanks.
Mark E: Thank you much for such a thoughtful compliment. If only Alfred had considered a category for "Innovative Solutions in DIY". I certainly hope it helped you solve a problem. Thanks again for taking the time to comment and for watching.
Finally a how to video that is not Irritating
Omg Thank you so much .. this video really help me . I was so overwhelmed and I had no idea why my suburban kept saying engine hot ac off .
I literally went to go buy the thermostat and I looked at the plug it was unplugged and broken thank u so much just saved me money and time
@Isreal Fraga: Glad I could help and congrats on fixing it yourself.
Thanks for the video as I replaced my thermostat and sensor to avoid extra work/time which went well for 2 weeks with the same results happening 2 days ago. I will be checking those wires next. Thanks again!
Daniel Rhodes: Great to hear! Good luck with the search and thanks for the comment and for sharing.
Awesome.. Helped me out a ton.. Thanx..
I’ve watched 15 different videos and they’re all the next generation of motor so it did it help … thank you for this
Glad it helped. Thanks for the comment.
You and your video saved my butt... i can't thank you enough for taking the time to post this video
Steven C: I'm glad it helped you out. Thanks for the great comment and for passing it on to someone else who can use it.
👴🏻👍🏻
Great job. Never got that code on my suburban. 270,000 miles but now I know what to look for if it happens. Thanks again
No problem. Thanks for the comment. 👍
Thank you so much! My truck started to overheat and display this message, i just had all my spark plugs and coils changed so i ran and got it and re-wired and soldered it and it worked!!!!!
Ashley Roman: I'm glad the video helped you out. Congrats on a job well done!
I have a 2008 Impala that does this, exactly the same display screen with the same message.
Literally going to inspect the engine now armed with more information thanks to you!
Did you ever fix it
We had flash flooding today and as soon as I went through a huge gully I got the engine hot ac off warning. I knew it had to be electrical and you just saved me from a whole coolant flush etc. Thank you!!!
Commie Tube: If your engine got hit with a large puddle of water, you might just want to clear codes and give it a fresh start. You may not need to do anything else. Good luck with it.
@@ScubaMoto Nice! Thx so much!
@@ScubaMoto It worked! I disconnected the battery for a few minutes! Thx for the help!!!
Commie Tube: That's great news. So the puddle did just trigger the temperature error. I'm glad you're back on the road.
@@ScubaMoto Yes sir!
Thanks for the video! My wiring was OK, but I added a glob of dialectic grease and it solved the problem! That stuff makes a huge difference on connections!
Congrats on a good fix. Thanks for sharing.
I changed my sparkplugs and i accidently disconnected it. Thanks for the video.
MrOzlopez: You're welcome. I'm glad you liked the video. Your comment is a great reminder of what can happen with the sensor so close to the plug. Great job on catching the problem and on changing your plugs. 👍 Thanks for sharing the comment.
Thanks, man. I just replaced my manifolds with long-tube headers. I started the truck up and that light lit up right away.
Glad I could help. Thanks for the comment.
Dude such a life saver I changed 1 cylinder or 3 what ever it is and must of knocked that sensor I realized my compressor was out and my temp gage was at no heat response of warming up went back check this sensor thing and bam I have a/c again and my temp gage back good thanks bro u Def a life saver I thought my compressor went out all of a sudden and it's 110 here in texas life saver man would of hated going to work in the morning with this problem I couldn't figure out but by ur vid ur Def a hero in my book thanks again😅
Glad I could help and congrats on finding and fixing. Thanks for sharing.
Great video. Really good job explaining the problem as well as the solution. I have had this issue for months now, I changed my thermostat and coolant temperature sensor which didn't fix the problem. I was getting really frustrated with this problem. Now I will check the wiring going to the sensor. I read in the comments that someone used dielectric grease on the wires and it solved the problem, I think I will try that first before I cut the wires and replace the connector.
Keep in mind that many parts counters will sell a 160 degree T-stat for these trucks when you really need at least a 187. So, after the new T-stat install, the truck never reaches operating temp and sees it as a stuck-open T-stat. It's a super common mistake made at the parts stores. Delco 131-161 is rated at 187. NAPA also has good ones. Just confirm the Temp rating of whatever T-stat you buy. It's always worth checking that AND the wiring.
Thank you .just replace sensor, an terminated, steel ac hot eingen hot.so i did see that what you showed, ima get on it first day light. Thank you
Currently having the same problems gonna look at it sometime today
Thanks for your help 👍
No problem. 👍 I'm glad the video helped. Thanks for the comment and for sharing.
it’s really helped me thanks bro,,,
I'm glad the video helped you out. Thanks for the comment.
My 09 gmc does the same thing changed the thermostat and temp sensor like 1 or 2 months ago and started doing that today, but when i opened my hood i saw that the sensor connector itself wasnt taped or anything just plain wire next to the exhaust manifold
Thanks for posting...been tryiung to get rid of that code 2 years...tired of taking the positive battery clamp off to reset the computer just to have it happen again..and again...and again...
You're welcome, I'm glad it helped. If possible, pull the code next time it happens. If your thermostat is good, then it's time to look for wire damage.
Thia really helped..👍
This just happened to me!!! Thanks for the great video!!! Saved me alot of $!!!
You're welcome, I'm glad it helped and congratulations on a job well done!
@@ScubaMoto 👍
Great video..... thank you for your help!
unclejj509: I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you I fixed mine after watch this video it was the plug🎉🎉🎉
Glad it helped. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome video
Job well done thank you.
Oscar Gutierrez: I'm glad it helped and congrats on a good fix. Thanks for watching and for sharing.
Great video!👏👏👏👏Thanks
Anton Simmons: I'm glad it helped. Thanks for the comment!
Great video! Unfortunately for me both the Sensor and the thermostat went out at the same time so I had to do both anyways!
Glad it helped. It's always good to replace the T-Stat first and let the code clear since this fault code disables the temp gauge making it appear that the temp sensor is bad. Good luck with the repair. Thanks for sharing.
Wow amazing ☺️ thanks I’m having that prob right now 2010 suburban
Thatdatezz: Glad I could help. If you have a new thermostat like I did and you still have this warning, there is likely a damaged wire somewhere. Thanks for the comment.
I changed my sensor first and then did a thermostat drove my 07 yukon for about a week then came on again.I just replaced this connecter.Lets hope this does the trick.Thanks for the video!
David Santos: Thanks for sharing. Time to look for wire damage like in the video. Please let us know if replacing the connector does the job. Thanks again for the comment. It's also worth checking the temp rating on the new t-stat. A lot of parts counters will sell 160 and 180 degree t-stats for these vehicles. They need t-stats rated 190-210 degrees. If you still have the box it came in it would be spec'd on the box. I hope that helps.
did you resolve the issue ? if so how...? thanks
I have the issue since 3 months.. it cost me so far more than $700, all solutions worked for 2/3 days and the error comes back.
I appreciate if you guys share whatever effective fix you did.
@@abdulmawlaarrabee5003 Replace your thermostat (T-Stat). Please read this. Since you have probably eliminated damaged wires, I'm willing to bet that the first thing done when you got the dash warning was to replace the thermostat. Your original 210 degree T-Stat was frozen open (very common) and would not let the vehicle reach its 210 degree operating temp. That caused your first dash warning (normal). My guess is that first T-stat replacement is where the mistake was made. It is sadly VERY common for the incorrect T-Stat to be supplied for these vehicles. They need T-Stats rated at 210 degrees F. Many parts suppliers will provide 160 degree T-Stats in error. A good mechanic should catch it but since 160 degree T-stats are super common, many won't know it's not correct for these engines. When a T-Stat opens at 160 instead of 210 degrees temperature, it has the same effect as when your first T-Stat was frozen open; the vehicle can't reach the correct operating temperature of 210 degrees. If you remove the new T-Stat that was installed, I am guessing you will see 160 temp on it. Put in a 210 (or something close) and your problem will likely stop. I hope that helps.
Rx: Dead giveaway when the coolant temp gauge is not reading coupled with the message.
Good engineering, informative and to-the-point. I will be watching for more of your videos.
Matt Boudreaux: Thanks for taking the time to comment. I appreciate your feedback.
Great video thanks.
You're welcome. I'm glad it helped.
Great video...Did the sensor & plug switch on Saturday, Voila, engine hot-a/c off fixed. Until I went t to work on Monday. Got halfway to work & noticed the warning was on again. Moving on to R&R the thermostat tonight. Hope those are the only two issues to address? Thanks for the video, it helped for a couple of days!
That sounds right. If you hadn't already replaced the thermostat, then you're on the right track to put a new one in. Just be sure to get the right temperature thermostat for your vehicle. Some parts counters will get it wrong and that can also generate the same warning. I had already replaced the thermostat before doing the work shown in the video and the warning persisted and that's what prompted the search for a bad connection. Let us know how it works out.
Up an running, R&R'd the thermostat...problem solved. Thank you for the input!!!
Great video saved me a coolant dump. I just don’t know if it was the connector or the sensor cuz it was a combo deal for $35 so I just replaced both
Gus Chairez: I'm glad to help save you some coin. Congratulations on a job well done.
@@ScubaMoto amigo yo tengo una Chevy 2011 le canbie el termostato I el sensor de caliente I aora sube amas de 210 ayúdeme porfabor
@@victoribarra2433 Es posible que la tienda de repuestos le haya vendido un thermstat demasiado bajo. Necesita un termostato 210 y muchas tiendas venderán termostatos 180 o 190 por accidente.
@@victoribarra2433 210 temp is normal
Thank you!!!!
You're welcome! Thanks for comment.
This video helped me greatly! Mi e wasn't the wire or connectors, but a bad temp sensor.
Thanks a bunch!
Marshal Downs: Congratulations on the fix and I'm glad my video helped you find the culprit. Thanks for watching and for the great comment.
Thank you, thank you, thank you sir!!
You are very welcome. I'm glad it helped and thanks for the comment.
Nice I'm definetly gonna look at this tomorrow. This message only pops up when it's cold/I turn on the heater or heated seats
My fan kicks on and stays on from anywhere from 2 days-2 weeks (couple of hours of use everyday)
Phantom Session: The cooling fans staying on would be normal for a P0128 code condition. It's also likely that your dash temperature gauge is out during the P0128. When was the thermostat last replaced? Check the code if possible to confirm. If wires and everything look good, your cold weather story tells me that you might actually have a thermostat that is stuck open or opening too soon and needs replaced.
@@ScubaMoto I dont know when it was replaced I bought my truck 2 years ago it's an 08. But yeah I checked the wires and everything's good so my next step is gonna be to replace my thermostat I've already been quoted 140
Phantom Session: In your case, a new thermostat is a good way to proceed. The nice part about paying a shop is that they should offer a warranty period in case something doesn't go right. But it's not the most difficult job. The hardest part can be fluid disposal and air removal but many shops and/or auto parts stores will recycle fluid. There is a radiator drain (usually on the driver's side) that you can drain the fluid from. It takes a while but makes containment much easier than simply pulling off a hose. The MOST IMPORTANT thing no matter who does the job is to not order the wrong thermostat. It's a common mistake. These GM temperature systems are very sensitive. Perhaps too sensitive. It's easy to accidentally buy a thermostat that is too cold (opens too soon. i.e., 185 degrees instead of 210). Then you could get the same code condition. I recommend ordering the ACDelco OEM thermostat that corresponds to your VIN number. This P0128 code condition is triggered when your engine temperature is too low for too long and some after-market t-stats are too cold (open too soon).
I have this same issue/error. I have ordered the same part but haven’t received it yet. Thanks for the video.
The pigtail that you cut had different colored wires. The new pigtail and plug come with just black wires. Is there a certain way that the new wires need to be connected?
Since it only plugs one way, it's easy to re-connect the same, so I did. But with this temp sensor, polarity doesn't matter.
Good advice
Thanks for comment.
Had the same symptoms in my 07 Tahoe and it worked! I used butt connectors though
Glad it worked out. Congrats on a good repair and thanks for sharing.
After changing a hose I started my car without the mass airflow sensor which detected a check engine light I want and then went to wash my engine bay and this message popped up don’t know which one of the two things I did caused it but what I did to fix it was I started my engine plugged in my scanner clear the codes in that fixed it
Hello great video btw, what’s the best thermostat temperature you recommend getting the 160 or the 180 or 220 thx
The one linked in the video description is the correct OEM thermostat and it's 187 degree open. That's my recommendation. I've also seen 190's out there that would work fine. 160 will trigger the same warning light on the dash as it will prevent the engine from reaching its full operating temp. I hope that helps.
@@ScubaMoto thx brother 👍🏼I just want to make sure I bought the correct one the 187 is the one I got the new one so I’ll be installing this today 🫡
Was the coolant fluid actually overheating when you decided at first to change the Thermostat?
Thanks the video, I’m applying this to my sensor ASAP
Moto Honduras: No. It's hard to know the coolant temperature when the warning is up because the vehicle disables the coolant temperature gauge until the condition is cleared. The reason to first replace the thermostat is because a common issue with old thermostats is that they get stuck in the open position. This prevents the engine from reaching the proper operating temperature. But, when installing a new thermostat doesn't solve the problem, it's time to search for issues somewhere with wiring, because that is also a common issue; and a visual check of wiring is easy and costs nothing. Thanks for the question and for sharing.
My 2010 silverado 1500 is having the same problem. I already replaced the thermostat. Hopefully its just the pigtail.
Kyle Flow: Have a look and see if it is damaged like the one in the video. A damaged plug is common but there are other causes. If it's not damaged, it could be wire damage elsewhere, too cold of a thermostat (not 210) or an issue with the temp sender. Thanks for the comment. Let us know what you find.
This is the culprit!!! My wifes truck temp gauge stopped working out of nowhere then the a/c shut off and she got a check engine light and engine temp warning. The wires on the temp sensor plug were all messed up. Taped em up and the truck is back to normal. Going to replace the plug asap. This just all happened today. 😆🤦🏼♂️
Also we didnt get that same code. It was a p0117 or something like that. But still said temperature something or other low voltage
So I’m this case, are y’alls air conditioning working? Bc mines have the display that’s been shown but my actual AC is not getting cold.. any tips?
Rowdy Rod: That is the typical response by these vehicles to a coolant fault. The AC is disabled and the radiator fans remain on until the fault is removed. Your temperature gauge may also be disabled. It doesn't have to make sense, it's just the way they designed it. Find and fix the issue, remove the fault code and it all goes back to normal. It often just means the thermostat has gone bad. If it continues after installing a new factory GM thermostat, then it's time to look for other issues.
I broke mine while installing my headers did it take awhile to reprogram it’s self or did the cod come off instantly
Juan Tacuache: It should clear itself eventually. I believe it clears after 3 trip cycles in a row of a certain length with no errors. I wanted my temperature gauge back immediately so I cleared the code with the OBD-II scanner in the video. You can get code readers at pretty low cost that will clear this one after a repair. There should even be links in the video description that will get you started.
Mine was the wiring harness but the coil the coil bolt rubes the wire just put a cap on the bolt
Jimmy Burch: That's a good one to look for. Thanks for the comment.
How did you know what wire connnected to what wire
Cameron's Madeiros: The plug only goes on one way so it's easy to get the wires right.
Hi there just have this message display today, I don't have a thermostat in the truck. Do you think that might be wh it came on. I removed it 4 days ago traveled to Houston and it came on today
Mr Chillpill: Yes, that is the reason you have the warning. A thermostat that is stuck open will trigger the warning. A missing thermostat will have the same effect. If you check the OBD code, it's likely P0128 "Temperature Too Low for Too Long".
@@ScubaMoto thanks I'm going to put it back on see if the problem ends
What would happen if you crossed the wires when putting on the new connector ?
Hoss: I just kept track but in this case it doesn't matter. Since one is a 5v source and the sensor is the thermistor (thermal resistor) affecting the return line voltage to the PCM, even if you swap the lines, the same voltage will pass though the thermistor before returning to the PCM.
Can the vehicle get damage driving it around with the hot engine ac turned off message on ?
Marco vasquez: There are several codes that produce the "Engine Hot AC Turned Off" message on the dash. A common one, as was the case in this video, is P0128 which means the computer detected temperature too low for too long. If this happens, you may notice that your engine cooling fans will come on and stay on until the code is cleared. Driving with the fans running constantly will put additional wear on the fans and, of course, your problem will still not be fixed, which may cause additional issues. The same message appears if the computer detects too high a voltage but it will log a different error code (Ibd code) usually P0118. This could be a bad coolant sensor or if your engine is actually hot, your thermostat may be stuck closed. In either case, your cooling fans will likely be locked on so you will want to solve the problem soon with minimal driving. Thanks for watching and for the question.
I have a 2009 Pontiac Torrent; same problem. I used a cheap bluetooth OBD-II from amazon; erased the codes and the problem went away. The engine was running fine and no coolant leaking. Sometimes its just the ECM glitching, but I live in Vegas.... and it gets hot. Probably the reason the code popped up. Also before I had to bypass the heater core lines because one of the heater core lines popped and leaked all the coolant ( It happened 2 times during 2 years of having it). Now I have to get a look at the coolant tank once a week to see if there are leaks. Its chevy's problem
Javi: It sounds like your thermostat may have simply stuck open once and started working again. That does happen. Also those plastic heater core lines break all the time like that. It's a real mess isn't it? I'm glad it's all working again for you. Thanks for sharing
@@ScubaMoto Hey you know what. It probably is.... yeah. Those rubber hoses.... Not fun. Especially it happened when I was at a drive thru.
Went to a pep boys just to replace a hose and coolant they charged me more than 300
@@ScubaMoto They have a little kink because of the bypass
I had this problem recently , can I drive the car to the maintenance or its going to get hot and hard to drive ?
Mod Alani: If your coolant level is okay, you should be fine driving it to the shop. They will likely first replace the thermostat and do a coolant flush which is good. If that doesn't fix it, they will move on to checking wires and sensors.
When I leave the car in the sun cooling continues separation experiment and found the solution to disconnect the battery pole and then return what is the reason not to continue cooling note that the car gmc yukon 2010
Thank man!!!!👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽
Any time! I'm glad it helped.
My 07 uplander overheated.
Says: a/c off for engine protection.
The temp gauge goes all the way hot. And car shuts off due to overheating.
I changed the thermostat,put new coolant. But it still overheats.
I can tell both fans work.
Do you think it could be a temp sensor?
Cam a bad temp sensor cause the engine to over heat??
I just don't understand why it would actually overheat y the engine.
I thought it only control the temp needle ,And fans but the fans work
Thank you very much for your video!
Dani_el: Yes, a bad temperature sensor could cause what you describe as could a badly damaged wire. Each could result in a false voltage signal sent to the computer. Are there any signs of an actual overheat? What are the dash warnings and codes generated? What was the condition of the coolant you removed? Hand held infrared laser thermometers are inexpensive and could go a long way to confirming actual temperatures of coolant lines, radiator and manifolds. The temperature sensor is even even less expensive. Both fans running are not an indication of true overheat conditions as the computer will trigger the fans based on bad signals (false high and false low) from the coolant system.
@@ScubaMoto
Thank you for your response.
Well, as today I guess you're right!! Cause I changed the coolant temp sensor band drove around the City for 1hr and no More overheating!!
What happened was; the engine did act ,feel, different.
boiling coolant from radiator cap. fan running full speed 5 min. after engine shut off, which didn't do before.
while driving down the road, temp gauge would slowly move to hot, get the warning sign about ac off foe engine protection, and was told pull over and shut car off by the instrument cluster.
changed the thermostat,coolant...same thing.
I was about to change the water pump, but i didn't see any visual signs of bad water pump, no leaking,no noise, nothing.
i was not aware,and still don't understand how does a coolant temp sensor work!
my understanding is that all it does is feel the coolant temp. tell the computer and control the fans and temp gauge. JUST COMMUNICATE.
i was not aware that it can actually cause the engine to really overheat.
or maybe its my imagination, but to me the engine was really really hot.
now that I've changed the sensor, the engine temp is colder i can feel it.
no more boiling water,no more fans running after engine shut off. no more warnings,and temp gauge is in the middle where is supposed to be.
Dani_el: Congratulations on a job well done fixing your ride yourself!
@@ScubaMoto
Hopefully this comments help someone else :)
Thanks again.
Would a bad sensor cause the car to run hot? I changed thermostat
Since you just replaced the Thermostat (T-Stat), that is the problem. Someone likely sold you a 160 or 170 degree T-Stat. The dash warning "Engine Hot A/C Turned Off" makes it sound like the engine is hot but it's usually just the opposite. When a thermostat is old it gets stuck open. When they are stuck open, the engine cannot get hot enough. It needs to reach 190 for the computer to know it's warmed up. If it stays below that for too long, you end up with this warning. The usual fix is to replace the T-Stat with a fresh 190 degree one. Since this happened right after your replacement, I'm almost sure they sold you too low a temp T-Stat. Your dash temp gauge should also be disabled and your cooling fans are likely stuck on. If you have the box the new T-Stat came in, it should tell you what temp rating it has; or the place that sold it might be able to confirm it was 180 or below. These vehicles need 190 T-stats or they trigger the fault code. I hope that helps.
5:15 ..."excessive" is fine to me. Nothing wrong there. Question: Did you use flux at all when you did the soldering? It seems like you may have since the solder didn't puddle off and stuck to the wires well....
Yes. I just use flux core.
Una pregunta ya le cambié el sensor y también el termostato y me sigue marcando lo mismo
bony Perez: En el video sucedió lo mismo. El sensor estaba bien y el termostato acababa de ser reemplazado. Así es como supe que tenía que buscar un cable dañado.
@@ScubaMoto le Isela Reset ala computadora y jalo
@@bonyperez6680 como iso eso darle reset a pa pc
I replaced the wire, the temperature sensor, the thermostat and the computer rig also and I still get the same issue. It starts working fine for a few days and then it gives me the same issue again. Any help?? I’m stuck at this for months now
Check the temperature rating for your thermostat (T-stat). Parts counters will often sell a 160 degree T-stat for these trucks when you really need at least a 187. So, after the new T-stat install, the truck never reaches operating temp and sees it as a stuck-open T-stat and throws the fault code. It's a super common mistake made at the parts stores. Delco 131-161 is rated at 187. It will work. NAPA also has good ones. Just confirm the Temp rating of whatever T-stat you buy. It's always worth checking that AND the wiring.
Thanks too much
Ahmed Madge: I'm glad it helped you solve the problem. Thanks for watching and for sharing.
If its not actually over heating is it ok to drive like this?
Antonio Hurtado: I would not recommend it because when this mode is triggered; the system disables your temperature gauge, engages both coolant fans and may also disable your air conditioning. I would have to guess that GM designed it that way to incentivize owners to service the vehicle immediately to resolve the problem. I hope that helps.
When that message goes on in my truck it doesn’t read the temperature and it just stays at 160,will this work?
Tu Papi Omar: Unfortunately, it is normal for the temperature gauge and the AC to be deactivated until the code is cleared. It seems unproductive to leave you blind on temperature, but the likely logic was that the coolant system needs immediate service and thus the next stop should be the shop. Temperature too low for too long is what triggers the code and can sometimes (not always) be caused by a thermostat that is stuck open and will not allow the engine to reach full operating temperature.
In the case of the vehicle in the video, the temperature gauge would have been reading falsely low due to the increased resistance from the damaged wire thus causing reduced voltage from the temperature sensor. The reduced voltage results in a false low temperature reading which is what caused the code and the dash warning on that vehicle. That is why replacing the thermostat did not help in that case. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching and for the comment.
ScubaMoto thank you for the reply, but the weird thing is that my AC works i turn it on and works just fine and the message only comes on when I drive in places like the freeway,because in normal roads I never get the message,I always disconnect the battery and connect it back
It sounds like you may possibly be clearing the code each time you disconnect the battery thus re-enabling your AC and gauge. The code will keep coming back until the source problem that's causing it is fixed. What year and model is the vehicle and have you been able to get the code number with an obdii reader?
ScubaMoto when the message is on I can still turn the ac on normally people say they can’t turn it on while the message is on,it never turns back on unless I drive in the freeway,I have a 2007 Tahoe I did see the cable you replaced in this video and it’s pretty messed up looks really damaged and I want to try what you did
Thanks for the additional information about the wires looking bad. If the sensor plug wires are damaged than it makes sense to do the replacement as shown in the video since it's an inexpensive step.
Is it ok to drive with this warning message? as long as the car isn’t actually running hot
Sometimes. The problem is that once the message is displayed, the computer usually disables the dash temp gauge making it tough to know what the actual engine temperature is.
Does sodder need to be used ?
meza032612: Not absolutely but as I mention in the video, it is a superior connection. You can do a good quality butt splice and you should be okay. More important is confirming that you have found the damage that is causing the issue.
I need a man who knows what to do so I won't get lied to at the dealer
IN LIFE ITS NOT ALWAYS WHAT YOU KNOW BUT WHO YOU KNOW AND WHO REMEMBERS YOU (THANK YOU UA-cam COMMUNITY)
Go to an auto parts store like oreillys have a guy bring a scanner out and he can tell you the code for what's wrong now just because it throws a code doesnt always mean that it's going to be that part it's just to help you get on the right track to what's wrong
Had my motor rebuilt and days
Later engine to hot a/c turned off.
Motor shop claim they fixed it.
But 8 Months later after running
The heater message popped up
Again. Motor shop giving Me
The run around claimed they fixed
It again. But issue still there.
Just checked my wires mine
Are worse than yours both
Wires are exposed. So i just
Purchased a new sencor and
A new pig tail plug. Hoping
It not the Thermostats since
The motor shop claimed they
Replaced that already. Gonna fix
It asap as soon as the parts
Get delivered. 😮
Since you just had it rebuilt, I'm betting it's the new T-Stat. If the new wires/connector don't fix it then they put in the wrong temp T-Stat. A lot of shops make that mistake. They put in a 160 or a 180 T-Stat when they should be putting in 190 - 210 degree T-Stat. The result is always the same; T-stat opens too soon and generates the code. Super common. If it's the case, you'll know when you pull the new T-Stat (if you need to). It should have a temp stamp on it. Good luck with it.
@@ScubaMoto I will do that last but yes this problem came back after I started running the heater again. Curious on
The temp stat I need tho 2007 Chevy
Avalanche 5.3
@@ScubaMotoOK so Replaced the pig tail and Temp sencor it did not
Fix it. This past weekend replaced
The thermostat with a AcDelco
187 degree and it fixed it. Old
Themostat from the motor shop
Was a Motorad 0822 but can't
Find out the temp to it tho.
The reason I guessed it was the T-stat is because you just had work done and shops are constantly putting in the wrong temperature units since so many other vehicles use lower temp T-stats. They probably had a 160 or 180 on hand.
Can anyone help me I took out my thermostat bought a new water pump bought a new radiator and changed the sensor and I still have the same problem . What could this be?
It could be a damaged wire as shown in the video. It could also be an incorrect thermostat (T-stat). A lot of parts counters will sell 160 and 180 degree t-stats for these vehicles. They need t-stats rated 190-210 degrees. A low temp T-stat will generate the same code because it will not allow the engine to reach full operating temp. If you still have the box it came in, the temp rating would be spec'd on the box. I hope that helps.
Was the temperature gauge running hot also or just the message on the dash. ?
Adrian Garcia: The temp gauge is usually disabled with this fault. That was the case in the video so I couldn't even see the true temperature until clearing the fault. Since the fault code was P0128, I knew the computer was seeing coolant temperature below operating levels for too long. As mentioned in the video, that's what a P0128 code means. It's typically caused by either a thermostat stuck open, or a damaged wire. Since I'd already replaced the thermostat, I started looking for damaged wires. Once the damaged wire was replaced, no more issue. Thanks for the question.
Where did you get that new black plug in ????
Jimmy Peralta: Thanks for the question. The one in the video is a Dorman 85100. Available everywhere. I picked mine up at a local auto parts.
@@ScubaMoto this helped alot ,
@@ScubaMoto any videos of tou doing a oil pan gasket escalade 07 ????
Jimmy Peralta: Sorry your pan gasket is leaking. I haven't made that video yet but it's worth pulling your cross member to give yourself some room so you can get all the surfaces nice and clean before installing the new gasket. And the pattern to tighten the bolts is important to get a nice even seal.
@@ScubaMoto thanks
My temp guage shows zero so must be a bad guage
If you are seeing the dash warning "Engine Hot A/C Turned Off" the vehicle's computer has likely disabled your temperature gauge. If you can clear the fault code, you may get your gauge function back until the code returns. It makes little sense to disable a temperature gauge when it's most needed and it's a topic of much frustration but that is how GM chose to design this fault code. We can speculate that GM's motive was to incent the owner to go immediately to a shop. Thanks for the comment.
My truck is making this code which makes sense cause we recently changed the spark plug wires and the spark plus themselves, good chance we damaged that connection
Robert Barks: Good call. That's definitely worth checking to see if there is any wire damage. Let us know how it goes. If there is no wire damage, we can go to the next steps. Thanks for the comment.
Im having this problem but my fans are also not coming on
Zone6Bigg: Your radiator cooling fans or your interior fans? Your first step might be to retrieve all obd codes to see if there might be other issues.
I have that same problem a chevy silverado 2011 with 5.3l engine cooling fan won't kick in and I hook the scanner no codes but the temperature gage is showing 210 but the computer is only reading 194 I already replaced the temperature switch but I put an after market switch and if i leave the engine running it overheats and the fan still dont kick in i have to turn on the ac to cool it down what can it be because the computer it won't pick up the temperature reading as the gage on the dashboard do you have any idea thank you in advance.
My radiator fans... and they don't activate with the ac turned on either
@@Zone6Bigg really what is happening is probably you are low on frion for the ac or is you ac cooling well? what you do too is unplug the temperature switch the cooling fan should kick in right away if it doesn't it mean your cooling fan is either out or you have a cooling fan relay.
@@casanueva68 i have replaced the fans and relays. Coolant fans are still not operational. Temp sensor is also new . Someone told me to change the ambient air temp sensor behind the grille???
Is this the same in a V6?
Jose Vaca: A damaged coolant sender wire will affect any vehicle. Do you have the same dash warning (or engine code) on a V6 Chevy? And do you have a visibly damaged coolant sender wire? If so, then it could still be the thermostat stuck open but replacing the damaged wire is worth the minimal expense. Good luck with it and thanks for watching.
ScubaMoto I haven't inspected the wire. But I have already replaced the thermostat and the actual temperature sensor I just didn't pay attention to the actual wire. As to code I'm just getting the engine hot AC turned off
Jose Vaca: Thanks for the update that the thermostat is already replaced. The code is probably P0128 but you might want to verify at an auto parts store with an obdii reader. Then clear the code so you can watch your temperature gauge. If the temp rises normally but doesn't quite reach full operating temperature when warmed up, then it is likely a damaged wire somewhere. I would begin by carefully checking the sensor plug and wires.
ScubaMoto I reset the computer by disconnecting the battery and the truck goes back to normal but yes my temperature gauge never gets all the way hot to 210. Then I'll drive it even for a few days and code comes back you think it could be what you explained in this video?
I don't have a check engine light
I did this and my temp gauge is still bouncing around
Adam Bosarge: Let's start from the beginning. What symptoms was the vehicle showing prior to any work being done? Because you say "STILL bouncing around", you may have a different issue. This video addresses a dash warning with a code that indicates engine temperature below normal even after the thermostat is replaced. When this dash warning is displayed, the gauge is deactivated and should not be moving at all. It could still be a bad wire, but if your gauge was jumping around then it is either your temperature sending unit or the gauge itself may have a bad stepper motor. What does the gauge do with the key on but engine NOT running?
@@ScubaMoto I changed the sensor on the side of the block and the connector and wires going to it, it still throws a code and the AC quits working when it’s not on 209
Adam Bosarge: What's the code? When was the thermostat last changed?
I fixed the same issue thanks ;)
Glad I could help