I think it's really important to mention here that you already had a OTK heim joint drag link which gets the angles right. If this bracket is installed on a lifted jeep with the stock drag link position under the knuckle the angles will actually be worse making bump steer worse. (ask me how I know)
I have bad bump steer on only 2.5” lift on my wj. I have a trailforged track bar but the rest is oem. It sucks cause I don’t know what to do and it’s causing my death wobble. If I hit a hard bump or uneven bridge approach it starts dw. It will only do it at over 60 though. 55 it will not death wobble.
@@wjkris0410 no I haven’t. It’s all factory drag link and tie rod. I took it to an alignment shop and everything is in the green and my drag link and track bar geometry appear to be similar. I can’t figure it out and don’t want to dump money in wheel bearings and ball joints just yet cause I want to get rid of the bump steer to see if that eliminated the dw. Otherwise everything on the front is all new control arms, bushings, track bar everything is done. I’ve owned one other wj that had a 2” bb lift and it did not have bump steer at all
Thanks for the video. Got the 1" rear sway bar from them, and now looks like I'll be possibly looking at this next. On a side note I was looking at switching to metalcloak springs as well. What springs and height did you go with, and what height did you end up at? Ground to fender measurement?
On the metal clock springs I used JKU 4.5 “ springs and I cut half a curl of the top and bottom of the front springs so they will sit properly On the rears I took a small amount out the coil off to go around the bump stop mount. At the end of the day I ended up with 5” of total lift.
I think it's really important to mention here that you already had a OTK heim joint drag link which gets the angles right. If this bracket is installed on a lifted jeep with the stock drag link position under the knuckle the angles will actually be worse making bump steer worse. (ask me how I know)
Good video buddy
Thanks
I have bad bump steer on only 2.5” lift on my wj. I have a trailforged track bar but the rest is oem. It sucks cause I don’t know what to do and it’s causing my death wobble. If I hit a hard bump or uneven bridge approach it starts dw. It will only do it at over 60 though. 55 it will not death wobble.
Is you track bar in the stock location or is it an over the axle style track bar?
@@wjkris0410 stock
It’s a trailforged track bar and everything is adjusted right
Did you add a drop pitman arm to your lift? That will mess up your steering
@@wjkris0410 no I haven’t. It’s all factory drag link and tie rod. I took it to an alignment shop and everything is in the green and my drag link and track bar geometry appear to be similar. I can’t figure it out and don’t want to dump money in wheel bearings and ball joints just yet cause I want to get rid of the bump steer to see if that eliminated the dw. Otherwise everything on the front is all new control arms, bushings, track bar everything is done. I’ve owned one other wj that had a 2” bb lift and it did not have bump steer at all
Thanks for the video. Got the 1" rear sway bar from them, and now looks like I'll be possibly looking at this next.
On a side note I was looking at switching to metalcloak springs as well. What springs and height did you go with, and what height did you end up at? Ground to fender measurement?
On the metal clock springs I used JKU 4.5 “ springs and I cut half a curl of the top and bottom of the front springs so they will sit properly
On the rears I took a small amount out the coil off to go around the bump stop mount.
At the end of the day I ended up with 5” of total lift.
Do you have to shorten your trackbar after you install the adapter plate? I cannot get the darn thing to align after installing it.
I did shorten my track bar when I did mine
@@wjkris0410 Thanks. Mine was about 3/4" too long when I lowered it. Mine's not adjustable. I'll have to get one.
@ChilePicanteKornNvtz ya you will need to get one for sure