I am so proud of you Brad! This video is freaking awesome! Great info very thorough super great job buddy! Looking forward to seeing more of your videos!
Best tip for fixing burn through is to never burn through. I’m a big fan of copper because you can weld directly over it to fill gaps. Aluminum can get a little melty depending on the situation
For wrongly drilled holes i have a heavy piece of bronze in my box and use it the same way but with mig to fill holes, works a treat with steel and stainless. Never tried it with tig but good to know that also works, thanks for the tip 👍🏻
That is nice, I will remember this next time I burn up some sheet metal. I haven't started welding stainless yet, but even with mild steel sheet metal when you fill it the way you did at first it still seems like it cooks it too much and for sure you will add too much heat as well.
It depends on the purpose of the part; if it's not important to build up sugaring on the back, then no one cares. Imagine that for most non sanitary/chemical jobs on pipes it's not even required purging; so when after 10 years rust will eat the part, you'll just repair it again
I've been dealing with this sort of thing for the past 15yrs. Fabbing mostly 304ss enclosures for industrial controls. When parts are bent to form a box, the corners don't always match up perfectly. On long runs, I will back with 1/8 aluminum angle. Smaller little corners, especially if there is a big gap, I use a chunk of 3/8x1 brass bar stock. It's a challenge to teach these young guys to do it this way. That's if you can even get them to show up for work.🙄
Question??? If you come across a hot weld where you know the chromium has been burned out and due to the scenario it would be a nightmare to grind out, can you go over the weld and regain some of the properties w the filler??? I know its not ideal but curious if the filler and going over the weld could regain somewhat. Thanks in advance
@@bradwhite6338 that's not the right answer: aluminum obviously won't weld to stainless, but it's not melting cause alumina (aluminum oxide) has Melting point of 2072 celsius degrees, wich is higher than stainless.
não gosto muito de fazer reparos em chapas tão finas. maior atenção e uma boa inversora e um bom ajuste de parâmetros elimina essas buracos... é uma bosta quando ocorre... no Brasil infelizmente não não se encontra everlast para comprar.. por favor traduzar e conheça um pouco do português... salve... estou trabalhando nesse exato momento. felicidades.
If you want to build less heat, just bump up the amperage and use your machine in 2t with the hand switch; you just have to switch on and release as fast as possible, it's the same method that chinese ppl use to demonstrate the "cold weld" process. The only problem of this method is poor penetration; considering your welding a 1 mm/1.5 mm thickness sheet metal part, you won't have any penetration issue; you'll be faster and you'll put less heat in the parts.
Love his humor! Got a couple laughs while learning a lot too!
Interesting and valuable tutorial Brad.
Thank you sir.
Just watched this a second time and well worth doing so. Great video.
Very much appreciate it.
I am so proud of you Brad! This video is freaking awesome! Great info very thorough super great job buddy! Looking forward to seeing more of your videos!
Thanks brother, trying to put in what I know, and just hope it conveys.
Great tips Brad!
Best tip for fixing burn through is to never burn through. I’m a big fan of copper because you can weld directly over it to fill gaps. Aluminum can get a little melty depending on the situation
Great video that will be useful for sure.
Nice work Brad great tutorial 🤘🔥
For wrongly drilled holes i have a heavy piece of bronze in my box and use it the same way but with mig to fill holes, works a treat with steel and stainless.
Never tried it with tig but good to know that also works, thanks for the tip 👍🏻
Nice tips!!
Excellent video, well spoken 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great tip very helpful .
Nice work.
Great tip. 😆👍😁
That is nice, I will remember this next time I burn up some sheet metal. I haven't started welding stainless yet, but even with mild steel sheet metal when you fill it the way you did at first it still seems like it cooks it too much and for sure you will add too much heat as well.
Great tip, but what about fixing a hole in stainless tube where a backing plate is not possible? (I've created a couple of these :-) )
I keep strips of aluminum and copper in my weld bag, fix alot of these in shop
Interesting repair, what if you couldn't get a backing plate in the back
Then its similar to the first example, and having to grind and clean the backside once its welded. And fixing the inclusions
It depends on the purpose of the part; if it's not important to build up sugaring on the back, then no one cares. Imagine that for most non sanitary/chemical jobs on pipes it's not even required purging; so when after 10 years rust will eat the part, you'll just repair it again
I've been dealing with this sort of thing for the past 15yrs. Fabbing mostly 304ss enclosures for industrial controls. When parts are bent to form a box, the corners don't always match up perfectly. On long runs, I will back with 1/8 aluminum angle. Smaller little corners, especially if there is a big gap, I use a chunk of 3/8x1 brass bar stock. It's a challenge to teach these young guys to do it this way. That's if you can even get them to show up for work.🙄
Good job
En español por favor
Sorry
nice work
Have you tried shaving foam instead of copper backing plate?
Can you use filler rod with flux welding.
Question??? If you come across a hot weld where you know the chromium has been burned out and due to the scenario it would be a nightmare to grind out, can you go over the weld and regain some of the properties w the filler??? I know its not ideal but curious if the filler and going over the weld could regain somewhat. Thanks in advance
What about burn through a on exhaust where you can easily access the back side?
Yes, I would also like to know something about that
Cut the whole part, clean the inside, then weld it back properly
nice~
I shoulda got an everlast
Still not to late, dm me for promos
what gauge was that material??
18ga
@@bradwhite6338 awesome thanks bud
I would go over it with a tig torch and dlend it in ?
Stupid question from a newbie: why the weld doesn't melt the aluminum?
Aluminum is nonferrous metal, meaning it doesn't have the molecular structure for it to adhere to anything other than other nonferrous metals.
@@bradwhite6338 that's not the right answer: aluminum obviously won't weld to stainless, but it's not melting cause alumina (aluminum oxide) has Melting point of 2072 celsius degrees, wich is higher than stainless.
i wanted to see it evened out after. still cool though
não gosto muito de fazer reparos em chapas tão finas. maior atenção e uma boa inversora e um bom ajuste de parâmetros elimina essas buracos... é uma bosta quando ocorre... no Brasil infelizmente não não se encontra everlast para comprar.. por favor traduzar e conheça um pouco do português... salve... estou trabalhando nesse exato momento. felicidades.
If you want to build less heat, just bump up the amperage and use your machine in 2t with the hand switch; you just have to switch on and release as fast as possible, it's the same method that chinese ppl use to demonstrate the "cold weld" process. The only problem of this method is poor penetration; considering your welding a 1 mm/1.5 mm thickness sheet metal part, you won't have any penetration issue; you'll be faster and you'll put less heat in the parts.