I just had the same 52 ‘NO FLAME DETECT’. Over and over. Kept resetting the codes and after a few tries it would fire up and work fine for the night. Next night, same thing. I did a little research and found a few common possibilities. The one that fixed it for me, was replacing the fuel pump. It has worked fine ever since.
That code is no fuel getting to the glow plug. The fuel pump is on top of one of your fuel tanks. You can hear it clicking if it’s pumping or see if it is leaking.
Hey Truckinstuff, I had the same problem this week. I'm sure you got your espar working by now but if not try this. I watched the video by schleprock titled Reset perimeters on Espar d1000 bunk heater. I chose 'yes' for diagnose, and had no faults. I changed maintenance period to 2000. I started my heater and got the same message about no flame detected but I could feel a trace of heat. I cranked it up to 78 degrees and went to bed, woke up in the middle of the night and it was putting out the heat. Hopefully it continues to work. I have a bad habit of shutting off heater and immediately starting my truck, I read that is not good, let the espar cool down. Let me know how you made out.
I'm having this same problem with my '17 Freightliner Cascadia Evolution. I took it to my companies terminal today and they replaced an overheat flame sensor. That didn't fix it as I am at a truck stop in Ohio freezing my ass off trying to get my bunk heater to work. If there's any other causes to this problem, I'd like to know so I can get back to a terminal and have them look at that
I had the same problem twice.. first it was my Fuel Pump. next time it was my screen filter inside my fuel tank.. on this i just did blow the fuel line backwards . and it worked ever sice..
I got a brand new 2018 last year an had this problem day one. They replaced something and it worked one year. 3 days ago I woke up ni flame detect. Took it to my company shop. The mechanic said he didn't do anything an it worked just fine. I'm sure its gonna break again. I woke up in - 25 degree last year freezing cold with no flame detect. If it keeps going out I'm gonna quit my job after 10 years and over 1 million accident free miles.
Thanks for this video. Is the bunk heater has a cold options can use for summer time ? Because I have the same one the one you showing in the video but I'm not sure if this one give cold air Thank you again for this video
Just got the issue from the truck of the new company i work for.. i shit my pants cause it is going to be a frozing ass night... I just hit disable.. enable back up .. then i heard it failed to light up like 30 times... 10 minutes later i heard a constant fire ... And YESSSSSS ITS UP... I did nothing but cross my finger..... Disable and re-enable and cross your finger lol
Poke the tiny hole then hold the power button and u can run diagnostics just like on a reefer trailer, you can also adjust the length of time the heater stays on.
Don’t throw away your money at Freightliner. Was at Portland Oregon heater didn’t work. Went to freightliner at Portland. Told them not to spend a lot of money on it. $1600.00 later. Told was fixed. I don’t know what their idea of a lot of money is but a new unit can be had for less than half of what they spent of my money. Then the unit ran about 3 HOURS. and quit. Hasn’t run since. Found the problem on my own. Seams to be a wiring issue at a plug 🔌 closest to controller. FYI.
Its a glow plug that ignites the fuel they made a stupid design with a wire mesh screen to shield the glow plug but it builds carbon if you run dirty fuel and clogs the wire mesh making it harder for the fuel to ignite... other times its just the glow plug that burns out and has to be replaced.
The chamber inside gets clogged from carbon/soot buildup and theres a tiny hole that clogs up the same way a gas stove clogs up where the flames come out of the holes, theres a video of a guy showing how to take it apart and clean it. ua-cam.com/video/F9al0qDxq7o/v-deo.html
I have the same problem with W990 kenworth it's a new truck.. I personally think the problem is the fuel line goes dry because of not running it in the summer time... these heaters should b started every 2 weeks year round then a guy wouldn't b having problems
Thermoking services these heaters. These codes you have are caused by 3 things-- fuel filter- located in the the inlet side of the pump. Atomizer screen or vent hole (both are serviced at the same time) combustion chamber carbonized.
I just had the same 52 ‘NO FLAME DETECT’. Over and over. Kept resetting the codes and after a few tries it would fire up and work fine for the night. Next night, same thing. I did a little research and found a few common possibilities. The one that fixed it for me, was replacing the fuel pump. It has worked fine ever since.
That code is no fuel getting to the glow plug. The fuel pump is on top of one of your fuel tanks. You can hear it clicking if it’s pumping or see if it is leaking.
Hey Truckinstuff, I had the same problem this week. I'm sure you got your espar working by now but if not try this. I watched the video by schleprock titled Reset perimeters on Espar d1000 bunk heater. I chose 'yes' for diagnose, and had no faults. I changed maintenance period to 2000. I started my heater and got the same message about no flame detected but I could feel a trace of heat. I cranked it up to 78 degrees and went to bed, woke up in the middle of the night and it was putting out the heat. Hopefully it continues to work. I have a bad habit of shutting off heater and immediately starting my truck, I read that is not good, let the espar cool down. Let me know how you made out.
There's a pinhole that you can put a paperclip in and reset the voltage down to 11 and that'll do it
I'm having this same problem with my '17 Freightliner Cascadia Evolution. I took it to my companies terminal today and they replaced an overheat flame sensor. That didn't fix it as I am at a truck stop in Ohio freezing my ass off trying to get my bunk heater to work. If there's any other causes to this problem, I'd like to know so I can get back to a terminal and have them look at that
A espar heater is just a bad product this thing never works right, i,ll never buy another espar heather again
I have this one. The heater works, but the digital display took a dump. I can't adjust it.
I had the same problem twice.. first it was my Fuel Pump. next time it was my screen filter inside my fuel tank.. on this i just did blow the fuel line backwards . and it worked ever sice..
What was the solution to the NO FLAME DETECTED problem with your heater?
I got a brand new 2018 last year an had this problem day one. They replaced something and it worked one year. 3 days ago I woke up ni flame detect. Took it to my company shop. The mechanic said he didn't do anything an it worked just fine. I'm sure its gonna break again. I woke up in - 25 degree last year freezing cold with no flame detect. If it keeps going out I'm gonna quit my job after 10 years and over 1 million accident free miles.
So how did you fix it ? I’m currently dealing with that right now. It’s cold I need it working
Thanks for this video.
Is the bunk heater has a cold options can use for summer time ? Because I have the same one the one you showing in the video but I'm not sure if this one give cold air
Thank you again for this video
Just got the issue from the truck of the new company i work for.. i shit my pants cause it is going to be a frozing ass night... I just hit disable.. enable back up .. then i heard it failed to light up like 30 times... 10 minutes later i heard a constant fire ... And YESSSSSS ITS UP... I did nothing but cross my finger..... Disable and re-enable and cross your finger lol
Do not try to reset button I took my to Rider and still having problems if someone out there can help us please do
Do they make these for cars? it would be way more eco-friendly than a remote starter to heat the inside
Poke the tiny hole then hold the power button and u can run diagnostics just like on a reefer trailer, you can also adjust the length of time the heater stays on.
Don’t throw away your money at Freightliner. Was at Portland Oregon heater didn’t work. Went to freightliner at Portland. Told them not to spend a lot of money on it. $1600.00 later. Told was fixed. I don’t know what their idea of a lot of money is but a new unit can be had for less than half of what they spent of my money.
Then the unit ran about 3 HOURS. and quit. Hasn’t run since.
Found the problem on my own. Seams to be a wiring issue at a plug 🔌 closest to controller.
FYI.
I’m cold and it’s the middle of winter. It worked before winter.
Its a glow plug that ignites the fuel they made a stupid design with a wire mesh screen to shield the glow plug but it builds carbon if you run dirty fuel and clogs the wire mesh making it harder for the fuel to ignite... other times its just the glow plug that burns out and has to be replaced.
The chamber inside gets clogged from carbon/soot buildup and theres a tiny hole that clogs up the same way a gas stove clogs up where the flames come out of the holes, theres a video of a guy showing how to take it apart and clean it. ua-cam.com/video/F9al0qDxq7o/v-deo.html
I have the same problem with W990 kenworth it's a new truck.. I personally think the problem is the fuel line goes dry because of not running it in the summer time... these heaters should b started every 2 weeks year round then a guy wouldn't b having problems
I know you've solved your your issue but I'll check the fuel line. Sometimes there's a clog or air in the fuel line
So..what was wrong??,
Thermoking services these heaters.
These codes you have are caused by 3 things--
fuel filter- located in the the inlet side of the pump.
Atomizer screen or vent hole (both are serviced at the same time)
combustion chamber carbonized.