Dave is really committed to the channel when he gets in as the pukey passenger. More driving videos please I loved it, seeing and hearing your creations on the street is awesome.
Have you measured the working angles of the joints on your driveshaft? Vibrations are often caused by the joint working angles not cancelling each other out. You cancel out vibrations by matching the working angles to be as equal each other as possible - within one degree. The working angles themselves usually should be under 3 degrees. On a one-piece this means equal and opposite angles of the transmission rear output and diff pinion in order to achieve working angles that cancel the vibration of each other out. A two-piece driveshaft is different. You measure each section's working angels from front to back, trying to minimize working angle while keeping them within one degree of each other. There are many professional resources online on how to measure working angle, and how to correctly cancel vibrations on a two-piece driveshaft. Hope this helps!
The issues you're describing with brakes sound like its master cylinder size issue. If you want a longer throw and more progressive feeling a slightly smalle MC might do the trick.
In my experience it's actually (counter-intuitively) the opposite. A smaller MC means a longer throw but less effort is required to lock the brakes (and less feedback). A larger MC reduces pedal mechanical advantage over the calipers and gives more feedback through the pedal.
Really concerned about the guibo and adapter setup. That adds significant leverage extension from the transmission output bearing. Keep an eye on it and the guibo bolts.
My guess is the pinion flange and the back of the transmission are at very different angles. If they aren't the same angel on either end, you'll get vibrations as the universal joints fight each other.
As an s14 owner and a JDM importer mechanic S-chassis don’t typically have heel/toe problems, when a car is heavily modified the balance where the brakes bite and the level of the throttle pedal can be at different places.
Loved both the explanation of decision making in creating the driveshaft, and the driving portion giving all the commentary was great too. Hope to see some more street and track driving of this car
So good to see you getting into the nitty gritty of actually tuning your cars again (and admitting that not every mod is always for the best). Big money builds are about as interesting as watching Pimp my Ride, so I'm hoping this is the new direction for the channel?
Didn’t Greg peters have an issue with the same transmission and the same problem? He attributed it to the actual transmission, ended up going with a different trans and it solved the issue
It was his differential. When he switched to a Cadillac diff from V8 Roadsters it went away. He tried a gazillion transmissions and driveshafts, ended up being the diff (which still seemed otherwise fine, but whatever, that was it).
With a BMW transmission consider an autosolutions shifter, my M3 came with a UUC shifter that was so notchy/short/but somehow vague that it ruined the driving experience. The autosolutions shifter is a fully custom piece made by a man who only makes shifters for BMW transmissions, good communication and a real change to the driving experience.
I had the same issue with the IRP tall shifter in my miata, i took some adjustment to get rid of that "struggle" feeling when shifting.. (the amount of tension in the bolts between shaft and foot of the shifter was the way to adjust mine)
i woulve said before blowing the money on a bunch of custom parts makes sure the drive shaft is clocked so that it's vibration is not in phase with either the diff or the transmission.
That wardrobe change from 11:03-11:07 - hard on the volk representation! Also, you do /NOT/ need a fender flare. You can buy aftermarket fenders that do have a wider width such as D-MAX or ORIGIN.
The new editing makes the pace PERFECT. I've been sucked to the screen for the whole video, admittedly when theres too much footage or repetitive discussion i zone out but this is seriously hitting the mark you guys, bravo
Those nuts are likely all metal locking setups. They have a section removed and it pinches on the thread. Think Nylok nuts but without the heat sensitive plastic.
my thoughts on the shifter.... go back to the black shifter and use a knob with a heavier weight. Will use mechanical advantage to make the shifts more effortless, wont fix the close 3rd to 5th gate but if you have to put less effort into shifting you may find your less likely to grab the wrong gear as is wants to fall into the right one
one thing that could help with the shifting is a heavyweight shift knob. a friend of mine has thrash garage heavy shift knob and his short shifter feels perfectly daily-able if you know what i mean. GKtech makes some heavy shift knobs, they’re pretty cheap and should help with the shifting
I'm sure it's been said, but those nuts are probably like that from a failed flex disc/guibo. When they completely fail, the nuts impact the flange on either the transmission or driveshaft. I've seen it a lot, especially on the E36s and E30s. It makes the nut look almost melted away where they touched. Then, when the guibo is replaced, most shops reuse the nuts, as there are usually four flats left, so you can still get a wrench on them.
Great work gents! And no I have never seen the bolts just come off. I'm surprised that the single piece created more issues than the two piece. I think all the adapters seem to create an issue going from 2nd to 3rd/5th.
Brake issue is definitely a booster fix. Using a dual diaphragm booster like the s13 auto brake booster, or a z32 brake booster will help with with the pedal modulation. Gives a much better(more stock feel to the brake pedal)
Hey Dudes :) had/have same issue on my ford probe GT with Wilwood calipers in the front. it will sound odd, but disable the brake booster for easy fix, or add a vacuum adjuster for the booster. We disabled the booster and it was much better. I am adding the vacuum adjuster so could dial in the gain of the booster. Alternatively can play with master cylinder size, but you will have hard time to find a large enough MC to make the pedal feel better. You can see it on my channel. I will be doing a video on that topic later as well.
If you have big brake kit in the front, but stock in the rear, look into a proportioning valve. It would also change the amount of brake force used while braking.
The problem with close gears "horizontally" isnt the shifters fault, its a well known bmw issue with worn out gear guides, which are made in plastic... really worn out ones can even make u go from 2nd to reverse without a problem haha, and yes ive had that happen to me in a E34 beater i had for a couple of years.
Car passion knows all about the bmw vibration from the trans. he had so many drive shaft made for his miata. He ended up switching to a newer bmw trans.
I'm having some similar vibration issues with my drive shaft. i think it's the drive shaft angle. i have a 95 mustang with the IRS & T56 Magnum. i shimmed the trans mount up and it cleaned up allot of the vibration at cruise and coasting. my shifter doesn't rattle as much either... i think I'm gonna try a little more shimming and see if it cleans up more. you guys might need a weighted shifter ball to kill that rattle.good video guys💪
Nice to have a 2-piece but with a harder guibo perhaps in the future? BMW M has some upgraded versions that would work well with the K-swaps power levels.
Did you guys ever figure out what the vibration in the chassis was? You originally said it felt like the motor was rubbing somewhere under hard cornering? I believe it was when only turning left?
You should try the nismo 380rs gas pedal. They're not very expensive, easy to get, and would look wayyyyyy better than what you have now. Part number 18016-AB000
I suspect you are missing (on original 1 piece) a second universal joint to compensate non-linear rotation of the first, either have 2 CV or two universal joints, mixing and matching will cause vibrations.
Dang guys, I'm sure you know but I'd be sure to at least use blue locktite on everything and nordlocks on anything else you don't want moving! Of course, this is just addressing the symptoms and not the problem but it looks like you guys have that in hand!
Now im not sure how it works in your car. But shifters like these (CAE, and other copies as Coolerworx for example) are kind of designed to not have a hard time telling the difference between 3rd and 5th. Just press it forward with an open hand from 2nd and the centering spring should automatically make it go into third. Not sure if the centering spring in the Coolerworx is a bit too weak, but in theory thats exactly what the spring is there for.
Unfortunately our gearbox is at a slight angle so thats where the problem lies. It brings the 3/5 shift closer together than it should be. If you take a pause and let it center then theres no issue with the 3/5 mistake but on track it becomes very easy to mis shift.
@@speedacademy Ah I see - Yeah that would explain it. The chassi mounted shifters can really be a hit or miss. I assume you guys run stiffer engine mounts/gearbox mounts also? Thats a must.
Are the bolts going through the rubber isolator to the aluminum adapter what's transferring your torque? If so, that's all threads in bending and a huge no-no.
Man I love & own honda, If I had a s14 I would want a sr20 but can't like k series in this is 🔥🔥 lookin forward to the Jimmy Oakes k24 s15 when the swap is done.
What a frustrating build this must be, I feel for you guys. Gotta say I’d put some rubber mounts on that motor and find an in between shift solution. Brake bias?
When I have done my Wilwood caliper swap I choosed the one that where more close to my OEM caliper in terms of piston to match my master cylinder. Maybe you got an issue here!
Did you guys look at drive shaft angles before you guys swapped the driveshaft? In my ls swapped bmw has a one peice drive shaft and the angles are off and makes a ton of noise and vibration, but I live with because I can't change the driveshaft angles.
Such a killer setup. Seems like a step backwards for the shifter. Is the force issue just related to the shifter spring preload? Can those be swapped out for a lower effort spring?
is the billet adapter still being located in the center? the rubber coupling (guibo) is only for torque vibrations. you didnt show fitting the adapter to the guibo
So, ive got a 96 S14, and watching your videos, im wondering, did you guys treat and/or polish the factory window rubbers? Ive got the same problem on both that car and my 05 legacy gt wagon, spots and finish issues that is... Ideas?
Dave is really committed to the channel when he gets in as the pukey passenger. More driving videos please I loved it, seeing and hearing your creations on the street is awesome.
Ah, Saturday morning coffee and Speed Acadamy?! Hell yes!
Haha same! Oh wait it’s Sunday here.
Have you measured the working angles of the joints on your driveshaft? Vibrations are often caused by the joint working angles not cancelling each other out. You cancel out vibrations by matching the working angles to be as equal each other as possible - within one degree. The working angles themselves usually should be under 3 degrees. On a one-piece this means equal and opposite angles of the transmission rear output and diff pinion in order to achieve working angles that cancel the vibration of each other out. A two-piece driveshaft is different. You measure each section's working angels from front to back, trying to minimize working angle while keeping them within one degree of each other. There are many professional resources online on how to measure working angle, and how to correctly cancel vibrations on a two-piece driveshaft. Hope this helps!
The issues you're describing with brakes sound like its master cylinder size issue. If you want a longer throw and more progressive feeling a slightly smalle MC might do the trick.
Was going to say the same thing. Smaller piston will fix that.
In my experience it's actually (counter-intuitively) the opposite. A smaller MC means a longer throw but less effort is required to lock the brakes (and less feedback). A larger MC reduces pedal mechanical advantage over the calipers and gives more feedback through the pedal.
They need the chase bays booster delete an MC. Also excesive camber will reduce braking grip. Anything over 2 degrees is too much for a street tire.
@@fullrunsilviaks yep, thats why all bigger brake cars have larger MC.
Need a larger MC and a smaller boost or none at all. Pretty basic
Really concerned about the guibo and adapter setup. That adds significant leverage extension from the transmission output bearing.
Keep an eye on it and the guibo bolts.
Yep, my thought was that's not going to do good with vibrations under high load...
I like the rolling shots of the car. Keep it up! I'd like to see more for your other builds.
Already loving the Saturday morning uploads, reminds me of watching the Speed channel Saturday mornings as a kid...but with better cars :)
My guess is the pinion flange and the back of the transmission are at very different angles. If they aren't the same angel on either end, you'll get vibrations as the universal joints fight each other.
I thought the same thing, they ended up modifying the driveshaft unnecessarily.
Saturday morning vid?...nice!
yeah they used to upload tuesdays and fridays, now its tuesdays and saturdays
What do you mean, it's late afternoon. 😛
As an s14 owner and a JDM importer mechanic S-chassis don’t typically have heel/toe problems, when a car is heavily modified the balance where the brakes bite and the level of the throttle pedal can be at different places.
Loved both the explanation of decision making in creating the driveshaft, and the driving portion giving all the commentary was great too. Hope to see some more street and track driving of this car
So good to see you getting into the nitty gritty of actually tuning your cars again (and admitting that not every mod is always for the best).
Big money builds are about as interesting as watching Pimp my Ride, so I'm hoping this is the new direction for the channel?
Absolutely love that your builds for the track could easily be my daily driver.
Watching your videos starts with alike! cuz I already know that it will be a good time!
I am happy to see that you guys share your failure as well as your success!
I like the new format, and the fixes for the modified car life. Keep it up.
Love the return of the regular speed academy videos.
Didn’t Greg peters have an issue with the same transmission and the same problem? He attributed it to the actual transmission, ended up going with a different trans and it solved the issue
He runs ZF now
It was his differential. When he switched to a Cadillac diff from V8 Roadsters it went away. He tried a gazillion transmissions and driveshafts, ended up being the diff (which still seemed otherwise fine, but whatever, that was it).
With a BMW transmission consider an autosolutions shifter, my M3 came with a UUC shifter that was so notchy/short/but somehow vague that it ruined the driving experience. The autosolutions shifter is a fully custom piece made by a man who only makes shifters for BMW transmissions, good communication and a real change to the driving experience.
I had the same issue with the IRP tall shifter in my miata, i took some adjustment to get rid of that "struggle" feeling when shifting.. (the amount of tension in the bolts between shaft and foot of the shifter was the way to adjust mine)
i woulve said before blowing the money on a bunch of custom parts makes sure the drive shaft is clocked so that it's vibration is not in phase with either the diff or the transmission.
Pro tip
Really like the new Saturday morning upload schedule! Also gotta give Cardanic a shoutout, they just built my Jeep driveshaft. Solid guys over there.
That wardrobe change from 11:03-11:07 - hard on the volk representation!
Also, you do /NOT/ need a fender flare. You can buy aftermarket fenders that do have a wider width such as D-MAX or ORIGIN.
this is basically how i want my drift/daily car good shit man!!! love the car
So jealous of how clean that 240sx is.
The new editing makes the pace PERFECT. I've been sucked to the screen for the whole video, admittedly when theres too much footage or repetitive discussion i zone out but this is seriously hitting the mark you guys, bravo
Those nuts are likely all metal locking setups. They have a section removed and it pinches on the thread. Think Nylok nuts but without the heat sensitive plastic.
my thoughts on the shifter.... go back to the black shifter and use a knob with a heavier weight. Will use mechanical advantage to make the shifts more effortless, wont fix the close 3rd to 5th gate but if you have to put less effort into shifting you may find your less likely to grab the wrong gear as is wants to fall into the right one
Love the new format don't know what you changed but it's great! 🙂
one thing that could help with the shifting is a heavyweight shift knob. a friend of mine has thrash garage heavy shift knob and his short shifter feels perfectly daily-able if you know what i mean. GKtech makes some heavy shift knobs, they’re pretty cheap and should help with the shifting
I'm sure it's been said, but those nuts are probably like that from a failed flex disc/guibo. When they completely fail, the nuts impact the flange on either the transmission or driveshaft. I've seen it a lot, especially on the E36s and E30s. It makes the nut look almost melted away where they touched. Then, when the guibo is replaced, most shops reuse the nuts, as there are usually four flats left, so you can still get a wrench on them.
car looks so good in the rolling shots. love to see it
Regarding the brakes; maybe the master cylinder size is the issue? Reducing the size should require more pedal travel.
I love your new video format...hope to watch more outdoor video from you guys
Oh! By the way i love that you guys are seeking the miata and not giving it away
Great work gents! And no I have never seen the bolts just come off. I'm surprised that the single piece created more issues than the two piece. I think all the adapters seem to create an issue going from 2nd to 3rd/5th.
Brake issue is definitely a booster fix. Using a dual diaphragm booster like the s13 auto brake booster, or a z32 brake booster will help with with the pedal modulation. Gives a much better(more stock feel to the brake pedal)
Hey Dudes :) had/have same issue on my ford probe GT with Wilwood calipers in the front. it will sound odd, but disable the brake booster for easy fix, or add a vacuum adjuster for the booster. We disabled the booster and it was much better. I am adding the vacuum adjuster so could dial in the gain of the booster. Alternatively can play with master cylinder size, but you will have hard time to find a large enough MC to make the pedal feel better. You can see it on my channel. I will be doing a video on that topic later as well.
Love the drive at the end was nice seeing the drive after the work!
Time to turbo it!!?? The 240sx is so clean! One of my favorite 240sx builds for sure.
Favorite car on the channel. Great video
Love this content!!!!!!! And the outside view is sick!
If you have big brake kit in the front, but stock in the rear, look into a proportioning valve. It would also change the amount of brake force used while braking.
Love the problem-solving documentation and solutions! Thank you :)
Love this car, body is in such a good shape for its age
I love this build my second favorite next to the 2jz E46 M3.
Love the reaction and feedback to the mods
The problem with close gears "horizontally" isnt the shifters fault, its a well known bmw issue with worn out gear guides, which are made in plastic... really worn out ones can even make u go from 2nd to reverse without a problem haha, and yes ive had that happen to me in a E34 beater i had for a couple of years.
Car passion knows all about the bmw vibration from the trans. he had so many drive shaft made for his miata. He ended up switching to a newer bmw trans.
I'm having some similar vibration issues with my drive shaft. i think it's the drive shaft angle. i have a 95 mustang with the IRS & T56 Magnum. i shimmed the trans mount up and it cleaned up allot of the vibration at cruise and coasting. my shifter doesn't rattle as much either... i think I'm gonna try a little more shimming and see if it cleans up more. you guys might need a weighted shifter ball to kill that rattle.good video guys💪
Prefer these ‘short videos’ where you sort stuff to the ‘pimp my ride’ videos... the best are the all out, in depth swaps 👍
Nice to have a 2-piece but with a harder guibo perhaps in the future? BMW M has some upgraded versions that would work well with the K-swaps power levels.
When I see Dave in the passenger seat, I feel for his stomach 😂❤️
love pfc! I have their 08's on my e46 track car and they're amazing
Those drive shaft guys are fast.
I made it as less than 20 seconds !
Did you guys ever figure out what the vibration in the chassis was? You originally said it felt like the motor was rubbing somewhere under hard cornering? I believe it was when only turning left?
Love the paint job or wrap of the s14 🔥🔥🔥
Looking forward to the track video. I love the track videos.
Great content greetings from 🇬🇧
You should try the nismo 380rs gas pedal. They're not very expensive, easy to get, and would look wayyyyyy better than what you have now. Part number 18016-AB000
I suspect you are missing (on original 1 piece) a second universal joint to compensate non-linear rotation of the first, either have 2 CV or two universal joints, mixing and matching will cause vibrations.
Dang guys, I'm sure you know but I'd be sure to at least use blue locktite on everything and nordlocks on anything else you don't want moving! Of course, this is just addressing the symptoms and not the problem but it looks like you guys have that in hand!
Dave's face says it all...this is better?!? 13:04 😂
Awesome content as always!
Would have loved to see the work done at the driveshaft shop like the NVAuto videos
More S14 content PLEASE!!!
love the content and quality.
Love the s14 content
I would say pull the fenders to fit the wheel poke, you should be able to pull them out enough
Already pulled quite far
why not just raise the coilovers if the front was a little too low after the roll center correction
Now im not sure how it works in your car. But shifters like these (CAE, and other copies as Coolerworx for example) are kind of designed to not have a hard time telling the difference between 3rd and 5th. Just press it forward with an open hand from 2nd and the centering spring should automatically make it go into third. Not sure if the centering spring in the Coolerworx is a bit too weak, but in theory thats exactly what the spring is there for.
Unfortunately our gearbox is at a slight angle so thats where the problem lies. It brings the 3/5 shift closer together than it should be. If you take a pause and let it center then theres no issue with the 3/5 mistake but on track it becomes very easy to mis shift.
@@speedacademy Ah I see - Yeah that would explain it. The chassi mounted shifters can really be a hit or miss. I assume you guys run stiffer engine mounts/gearbox mounts also? Thats a must.
Yeah all the mounts are stiffer ones
Somehow I prefer the simple looks of this S14 kouki compared to all the wide-bodykitted s14s
you can run a 350z gearbox with the k24. would probably makes things easier with a nissan gearbox. Adaptor plate is from pmc motorsport.
Then engine placement is based on shifter location, the BMW allows for perfect placement of the engine in the bay.
Are the bolts going through the rubber isolator to the aluminum adapter what's transferring your torque? If so, that's all threads in bending and a huge no-no.
Damn I love that s14, make me miss my old s14
Man I love & own honda, If I had a s14 I would want a sr20 but can't like k series in this is 🔥🔥 lookin forward to the Jimmy Oakes k24 s15 when the swap is done.
That 240 looks sooo goood
What a frustrating build this must be, I feel for you guys.
Gotta say I’d put some rubber mounts on that motor and find an in between shift solution. Brake bias?
I miss track videos a lot
Check if that adapter is balanced.. and any thing that is being cut and re attached must be balanced. It spins at a high revolution
They had the adapter when they did the shaft and balanced it
When I have done my Wilwood caliper swap I choosed the one that where more close to my OEM caliper in terms of piston to match my master cylinder. Maybe you got an issue here!
Absolutley love this car
I really like your rollbar gopro mount in the S14, what is it??
Did you guys look at drive shaft angles before you guys swapped the driveshaft? In my ls swapped bmw has a one peice drive shaft and the angles are off and makes a ton of noise and vibration, but I live with because I can't change the driveshaft angles.
I had PFC 01 on my Miata and I didn't like it because there was too much initial bite.
I.m looking foreward to the track video, 2 worlds colide and create perfection s chassis with honda K magic is a winner.👍
Such a killer setup. Seems like a step backwards for the shifter. Is the force issue just related to the shifter spring preload? Can those be swapped out for a lower effort spring?
pity borders are closed, i was going to say that speed academy and jimmy oakes should collab 240sx at the track
is the billet adapter still being located in the center? the rubber coupling (guibo) is only for torque vibrations. you didnt show fitting the adapter to the guibo
Is the red a stock 240 paint color ?? But man it looks so good with with no over finders witch you never see!
Why not shorten the excessive one piece when you installed the guibo?
The carrier bearing in the middle helps isolate A LOT of vibrations. Paired with the Guibo at the front and there shouldn't ever be any vibrations.
So, ive got a 96 S14, and watching your videos, im wondering, did you guys treat and/or polish the factory window rubbers? Ive got the same problem on both that car and my 05 legacy gt wagon, spots and finish issues that is...
Ideas?
One big issue is that long 1 piece driveshaft needs to be a 3 1/2 inch tube rather then a 3 inch. The 3 inch being that long will whip around
How about The gearbox ratio bmw for swap k24 ?
Feel like close ratio
Please dont put overfenders on this beautiful stock body s14
Would adding a brake bias adjustment help?
Didn't feel like rolling the fenders?
This is better than Saturday morning cartoons!
Let's not go overboard! Better than Powerblock that's for sure ...
great video, keep up the good work. When are you gonna turbocharge it? :P
Your exhaust is mounted to your transmission mount. Its a possibility that vibrations are being transferred through that
The factory mounts the exhaust to the transmission too.