You can also use a needle de-scaler to peen when welding cast iron. I have successfully welded nodular cast iron (eg typical vise) with ordinary 7014 and 7018 mild steel arc rods by peening while the weld is red hot. Works out better than using specialised cast iron rods as you do not get a burn gap on the weld edge. Just another use for this very handy item. Cheers Rob.
My needle descaler (air chisel) uses quite a bit of air - more than the 2 - 6 CFM quoted by many sellers. My compressor is 7.5 CFM and it can't keep up continuous running. I would recommend a 10 CFM compressor for continuous use. Rob
I bought one of these to clean scale of my tractor wheels and it worked superbly well. Then I found it great for taking the rust off the suspension on my Mercedes. I was happily taking the rust off when I found that the top of the coil spring cup bracket was mostly gone. I could see the plastic insert that the spring pushes against with very little steel holding what must be several hundred pounds of force. That caused me to stop as I was vibrating a 'bomb' and be very thankful that I found this before the spring came through the bracket at motorway speed. The bracket seems to be welded to the side of the engine bay making replacement difficult. Perhaps it can be welded but I am not good enough for such a critical component and I don't know if I should just scrap the thing and never buy another Mercedes again as this one seems to have been on a mission to rust out into oblivion. It is 19 years old, but I am not impressed with the quality of the steel work. Years ago I had one of these coil spring mounts fail of a Volvo, (bottom cup) but that was relatively easy to replace. Makes me fear what other bits of the suspension might be seriously weakened adding towards the scrap thinking, except having re-done the turbo, replaced an injector, redone the self levelling and welded in about 1.5 square meter of body steel, the idea of losing all that vexes, but on the other hand being hurt (or worse) or hurting someone else is a strong argument for saying good bye to it. Thanks for sharing the advantages of these de-scalers.
They are a handy unit. I've also used mine to clean up cement, take paint and masonry off of bricks, and knock off stick welding slag. Compressed springs are dangerous items for sure. A mate of mine was using an alloy coil spring compressor (two bolt type) on his old Peugeot 504 and it broke and shot the coil spring up through the roof of the workshop. Went past his head missing it by inches. How lucky was he. So yeah, don't take chances with this stuff. It can kill or maim you for life. Cheers Rob
Glad you found it interesting. I forgot to mention it in the video, but they are great for removing welding slag when working with a stick welder. An all round handy little gadget. Cheers. Rob
Bunnings and Supercheap don't have them. I bought mine from Redwood Machinery in Adelaide South Australia. They still have them. You may have to try an air tool supplier. Cheers Rob.
+Hugo Viljoen You're welcome. I have used the descaler on cement/concrete, and that is probably the worst/most wearing surface you can inflict on the needles. Long term use like that would certainly wear them down much faster than on rust/steel. They are a very handy item for weld cleaning - which is what I use it for most. Cheers Rob
I paid about $50 for mine. You may be able to make one up. The needles need to be able to move around (loose) so they can get into cavities, otherwise it would only work on one or two needles. Cheers Rob
Rob: What is the CFM requirement for your needle scaler? I don't have a compressor, but I want to get one that would run a needle scaler. Thanks for all the great videos!
Depends what you mean by efficient ?Descaler is faster at taking off loose rust and scale - that's why they are called a descaler and uses fairly low amount of air. You don't get back to absolute bare metal.A sandblaster takes of all the rust (not just the loose stuff) and does a perfect job - but it's very slow in comparison (unless you have a really big and powerful unit, which uses a lot of air).For perfect bare metal rust removal use a sandblaster, and for basic removal prior to chemical prepping, use a descaler. Rob
I've just bought one of these but I'll be damned if I can get it to work, what Bar did you have this on, (I know the max is 6 Bar) oh and how the hell do you get it back off the air hammer?
Hi Dex, I have heard of some brands (cheapies) being tight internally and don't run. So disassemble it and check everything moves freely and is oiled. I use 75 psi so as not to run down the compressor tank too quickly. Works fine. They eat up air big time. Cheers Rob
I have a similar problem I used mine once and no more go. Disassembled it and found that the little hammer mechanism had worn back, and not getting enough stroke. Where is it possible to buy spares for them it is an xynudu. I have used needle guns for over 30 yrs they are a good little unit when they work.
@@paddymickiemickie8221 I have not looked for spare parts (apart from needles) as mine has been fine, done a fair bit of work, no issues. Looking at the internals it all appears pretty basic and machining up replacement parts with a lathe looks quite easy. I gather there are big differences in quality between makes/brands of the same type of tool. Cheers Rob
+Hugo Viljoen Hi Hugo, I've never bought any. They last a very long time working on steel/rust/welding slag. Very hard needles. Looking on Amazon and Ebay they appear to be about $30 a set. Cheers Rob
jhitt79 Needle type descalers are aggressive. I would not recommend it for anything with a fine finish, as it will pit it. It's great for irregular surfaces, getting into tight corners, welding slag removal, but not for soft metal, wood, or smooth metal surfaces. Cheers Rob
Misael Purata Hi Misael. Mine is marked Proton Air. Similar attachments are sold under many names, and some seem to be better made than others, judging by user comments. They regularly appear on Amazon. Mine has been great with no issue of any kind. Cheers Rob
You can also use a needle de-scaler to peen when welding cast iron. I have successfully welded nodular cast iron (eg typical vise) with ordinary 7014 and 7018 mild steel arc rods by peening while the weld is red hot. Works out better than using specialised cast iron rods as you do not get a burn gap on the weld edge. Just another use for this very handy item. Cheers Rob.
My needle descaler (air chisel) uses quite a bit of air - more than the 2 - 6 CFM quoted by many sellers. My compressor is 7.5 CFM and it can't keep up continuous running. I would recommend a 10 CFM compressor for continuous use. Rob
I bought one of these to clean scale of my tractor wheels and it worked superbly well. Then I found it great for taking the rust off the suspension on my Mercedes. I was happily taking the rust off when I found that the top of the coil spring cup bracket was mostly gone. I could see the plastic insert that the spring pushes against with very little steel holding what must be several hundred pounds of force. That caused me to stop as I was vibrating a 'bomb' and be very thankful that I found this before the spring came through the bracket at motorway speed. The bracket seems to be welded to the side of the engine bay making replacement difficult. Perhaps it can be welded but I am not good enough for such a critical component and I don't know if I should just scrap the thing and never buy another Mercedes again as this one seems to have been on a mission to rust out into oblivion. It is 19 years old, but I am not impressed with the quality of the steel work. Years ago I had one of these coil spring mounts fail of a Volvo, (bottom cup) but that was relatively easy to replace. Makes me fear what other bits of the suspension might be seriously weakened adding towards the scrap thinking, except having re-done the turbo, replaced an injector, redone the self levelling and welded in about 1.5 square meter of body steel, the idea of losing all that vexes, but on the other hand being hurt (or worse) or hurting someone else is a strong argument for saying good bye to it. Thanks for sharing the advantages of these de-scalers.
They are a handy unit. I've also used mine to clean up cement, take paint and masonry off of bricks, and knock off stick welding slag.
Compressed springs are dangerous items for sure. A mate of mine was using an alloy coil spring compressor (two bolt type) on his old Peugeot 504 and it broke and shot the coil spring up through the roof of the workshop. Went past his head missing it by inches. How lucky was he.
So yeah, don't take chances with this stuff. It can kill or maim you for life.
Cheers Rob
You r no good for critical component yet u drove on it hanging out of the car. Just do it and youll be fine
Glad you found it interesting. I forgot to mention it in the video, but they are great for removing welding slag when working with a stick welder. An all round handy little gadget.
Cheers. Rob
is it possible to assemble a needle scaler that has a handle of about one and half meter long...??
Thanks for the demo! I was curious how those worked... Thanks again for all the great educational videos!
went to northern tools. all thier air needle scalers dont fit regular air chisels. where do u get a universal fits all
I have no idea how I went without this tool for the last 30 years.
Bunnings and Supercheap don't have them.
I bought mine from Redwood Machinery in Adelaide South Australia. They still have them. You may have to try an air tool supplier.
Cheers Rob.
Needle scaler is for hard to reach surfaces, other surfaced are cleaned with a wire cup.
Not really. Industry uses them to clean large steel pipes etc.
Thank's for the feed back
+Hugo Viljoen
You're welcome.
I have used the descaler on cement/concrete, and that is probably the worst/most wearing surface you can inflict on the needles.
Long term use like that would certainly wear them down much faster than on rust/steel.
They are a very handy item for weld cleaning - which is what I use it for most.
Cheers Rob
I paid about $50 for mine. You may be able to make one up. The needles need to be able to move around (loose) so they can get into cavities, otherwise it would only work on one or two needles. Cheers Rob
Sold. Thanks mate!
Rob: What is the CFM requirement for your needle scaler? I don't have a compressor, but I want to get one that would run a needle scaler. Thanks for all the great videos!
yes...and they make excellent scribers.
descaler and sandblasting which is more efficient?
Depends what you mean by efficient ?Descaler is faster at taking off loose rust and scale - that's why they are called a descaler and uses fairly low amount of air. You don't get back to absolute bare metal.A sandblaster takes of all the rust (not just the loose stuff) and does a perfect job - but it's very slow in comparison (unless you have a really big and powerful unit, which uses a lot of air).For perfect bare metal rust removal use a sandblaster, and for basic removal prior to chemical prepping, use a descaler. Rob
xynudu . thanks body! great help!
Are the needles spinning or moving up and down?
Moving up and down at high frequency.
@@Xynudu thanks
I've just bought one of these but I'll be damned if I can get it to work, what Bar did you have this on, (I know the max is 6 Bar) oh and how the hell do you get it back off the air hammer?
Hi Dex,
I have heard of some brands (cheapies) being tight internally and don't run. So disassemble it and check everything moves freely and is oiled.
I use 75 psi so as not to run down the compressor tank too quickly. Works fine. They eat up air big time.
Cheers Rob
I have a similar problem I used mine once and no more go. Disassembled it and found that the little hammer mechanism had worn back, and not getting enough stroke. Where is it possible to buy spares for them it is an xynudu. I have used needle guns for over 30 yrs they are a good little unit when they work.
@@paddymickiemickie8221 I have not looked for spare parts (apart from needles) as mine has been fine, done a fair bit of work, no issues. Looking at the internals it all appears pretty basic and machining up replacement parts with a lathe looks quite easy. I gather there are big differences in quality between makes/brands of the same type of tool. Cheers Rob
I need a shirt that says "I hate rust."
Hi xynudu.... can you tell me the cost of replacement needles?
+Hugo Viljoen
Hi Hugo,
I've never bought any. They last a very long time working on steel/rust/welding slag. Very hard needles.
Looking on Amazon and Ebay they appear to be about $30 a set.
Cheers Rob
How does it do on sheet metal? Is it too aggressive?
jhitt79 Needle type descalers are aggressive. I would not recommend it for anything with a fine finish, as it will pit it. It's great for irregular surfaces, getting into tight corners, welding slag removal, but not for soft metal, wood, or smooth metal surfaces. Cheers Rob
These make extremely fast work for dentistry 😮😅
This belongs on Reddit, "oddly satisfying".
Will it work in a cordless drill?
No
can you tell me the brand, I need one ASAP, thanks
Misael Purata Hi Misael. Mine is marked Proton Air. Similar attachments are sold under many names, and some seem to be better made than others, judging by user comments. They regularly appear on Amazon. Mine has been great with no issue of any kind. Cheers Rob
Good for small jobs...never be able to make money with this method.