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- Опубліковано 18 гру 2017
- If your ISDT Q6 Plus Charger is showing warning “current operation is not supported” this repair video might help you fix it.
→Get the ISDT Q6 Plus here:
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www.voltlog.com/voltlog-140-is... - Наука та технологія
Thank you for sharing this. If you are going to solder a cable, use 0.5 mm single core copper cable. You can find one in a UTP Ethernet cable ;) For those who look for an original replacement: it's a 30A SMD fuse.
wow thank you for this! I just had this happen to me today , did your fix and now everything's working great again. Thanks again!
A better option would be soldering the wire on top of the blown fuse. That way if the wire blows for some reason, the old fuse under it would protect the board from burning.
Good point!
I have the same warning message, so thanks a lot for this very clear solution!
I noticed that my XT60 plug for the output was very lose, I had to spread those little pin-thingies..
Maybe there was a false connection without ground or without power line of the connected Lipo battery for a moment causing this fuse to blow.
Anyways, I feel confident now to fix it. Thank you!
Following the tips in this video, I helped a friend attempt to repair this charger by shorting the same fuse, but it ended up smoking a FET as soon as a battery was connected to the output. It seems the failed FET probably caused the blown fuse in the first place, and removing shorting the fuse only allowed the FET to act as the next fuse.
I think we have the same problem. Do you mind telling me which FET is it, I can't seem to find it?
@@lolers1000 It was under the heat sink. I haven't replaced it, but it's visibly cratered, shouldn't be at all hard to find if it's totally failed.
Many thanks for your video, I had the same message, and thanks to your video I was able to open the charger and replace the blown fuse, which happened to be the same as in yours aswell. In my case I seems It blew due to inverted polarity on the output.
Thanks for the video, really appreciated a detailed disassembly guide - I had never found my way in otherwise. A little warning though, I had the exact same issue with the dead fuse, but replacing with an even thinner wire than you did, I still fried one of the micro mosfets "K72" (they are in fact 2N7002 mosfets in SOT-323 package, in case anyone else did this). I ripped a pad off trying to remove it. Now everything in the charger seems to work, charging, discharging and the fan. But it gets insanely hot in seconds, just plugging in the battery on output side causes it to rise to 80 degrees in idle mode. I've reached out to ISDT, and will update here if I find a solution.
I'm thinking if something gets hot just from plugging in the battery than some current is flowing and you must find that path.
Thanks for this video, I believe I have the same problem caused by discharging batteries. I have the same charger, the Q6+, but the board has a different layout. My fuses are on the opposite side of the board, one shows continuity, one doesn't. I have ordered a replacement fuse and have a friend who is a professional solderer and will replace it for me, hopefully that fixes my charger.
excellent!! i have a quick question. is that charger still works with no fuse for that long ?
great tutorial! I have the same error but unfortunately, the fuse has continuity so it could be another component that's busted. any idea what else could be the problem?
Good evening.
I want to know if: the other smd fuses on the motherboard are of the same value or different?(30A 32V).
I've been having a different error with my Q6. It says improper connection or something similar. I've tried different power supplies and different batteries and always get the same error. Also when I plug a battery into the main connection on the charge side the voltage reads waay low. But when I plug in the balance connector I get correct voltage on the individual cells. I decided to pull my charger apart tonight after watching your vid and sure enough one of my fuses shows no continuity as well. The layout of my board is a bit different from yours though, with both fuses located on the rear of my board. I think I'll try to install a jumper on mine as well temporarily to see if that works and if it does then I will add and external fuse bus to my charger for both fuses.
I was just searching for this because my isdt had the same problem. Thank you! are we able to buy that fuse?
Thanks!! helped me!
bravoo!!! consegui arrumar o meu, obrigado pelo video!
Cool now i know how to open them 👍💪
One thing tho you must plug main plug first before the balance plug then reverse when unplugging 👍
Thank you, good repair tutorial and how to open this charge
Ivo Silva - Planaltina-DF/ Brazil
Hi, can you do a review for UNI-T UT139C, thanks.
Nice finding and great fix mate! Just a couple of pointers:
First, make sure you don't add solder to the copper wire (kind of a challenge, cause copper loves solder), it might affect its impedance, making it resist higher Amperage.
And second, you really don’t need to remove the SMD fuse, just bend the wire like a stapler clip, and solder it on the corners.
Maybe as future mod, you could add an external fuse holder for easy replacement.
Good job! :)
thanks! What you said makes sense.
Exactly my first thought Jose, I have put in a similar wire looped over the existing failed fuse and created an extension to my exterior plug fitted with an easily replaceable external fuse. (Just in case it happens again). This way I am now able to vary the external fuse size to suit my regular load. I am like you Voltlog, I never use the 14 amps anyway. By the way Voltlog your video was a life saver for me...Cheers.
Awesome. Thanks man !
Hey, I have the same case as above in the video. I did the same as shown, except that after replacing this protection, I still have the message "Current operation is not supported!" Do you have any idea, maybe you also had such a symptom with your charger? Regards
l have the issue with my ISDT 608AC, any suggestion you can give me? could i email you for detailed my istd issue?
Great repair brother and yeah it's odd it blew at such a low current
Thanks! Like I mentioned in the video, the current probably came from the external battery connected on the output. It must have been something that enabled the mosfets and maybe created a path for the current to flow through the charger.. Otherwise I can't explain this and we also don't have the schematic to take a closer look at the current path.
Mine does not works..... did everything like the video but when i plug the battery on output makes sparks and the plug turns little dark. Opened it again and looks everything fine... could you helo me with that?
I just came across your video while searching the web for the "Current operation..." error message.
For what it's worth, I got the error the very first time I tried to charge a 3s pack. Until then, I had flown only 4s and 6s packs. Thinking that the 12V supply was too high to charge 3s, I immediately plugged in a 4s batter, and successfullly charged it.
While your video played in the background, and you were disassembling the charger to replace the fuse, I tried the 3s pack again, and ***this time it worked****. The only difference was I first plugged in the XT30 (new micro to play with!!!), before the balance leads. These were brand new packs with a storage charge on them.
My error was apparently not the same as yours. There might be hope for others experiencing the error. Only time will tell if this is a long term problem with this charger.
PS: I think it's likely the fuse got blown with a badly unbalanecd pack. They sell fused parallel charge boards, with the main plug on a fuse and the balance leads on "throttled" thermistors. This can protect the charger's internal fuse, and also has the benefit of allowing several similar packs to charge together.
From what I'm reading in the comments there are several things that could go bad and maybe the same error message displayed. What I always advice is contacting ISDT, they have the knowledge and will probably help out those who contact them.
i think that the fact that they told you about the fuse means that they have had issues with the fuse in the past. but, it also means that they are an honest company because many companies, knowing full well of possibilities, would carefully word responses to make it seem they know nothing at all about damaged boards. it was good that your skills allowed you to fix it and make a film about the issue i think this video will be quite helpful to others. if you can identify the fuse it would be interesting as a follow-up if your time allows to research if there are any other reports of failures of that particular fuse. anyway, thanks for this excellent video.
As I was googling the error I got there were no obvious results so I hope this video will show up to people searching the error message. Thank you for watching!
good video! i have a question: do you have problems with the encoder? mine work very bad. how can i clean it?
no problem with my encoder, but hard to think how dirt could have gotten in your encoder, it is down below inside the enclosure. Maybe it's just a faulty encoder and cannot be fixed by cleaning, Maybe you need to replace it. You should contact ISDT maybe they can offer a spare encoder.
Thank you so much for this, just saved my dead charger.
I'm happy to hear that!
Salut. Ai mai avut probleme cu incarcatorul dupa ce l-ai reparat?! Am luat si eu unul si am fix aceeasi problema!!
Nice video video ty.
Sigh, so first time using my charger I thought it would be a GREAT idea to power it with a dc to dc converter... had the converter set to 30v on the screen. apparently, it was still putting out 55v... *POP* ... can't find any visible damage on the board.. and both those fuses test fine.. any ideas where to look? :(
Well, just in case anyone else has as much "fun" as me at some point..
After *CAREFULLY* removing YM smd diode in the input circuit and ripping off the soldering pads for good measure(totally on purpose)... it now works just fine! (for now)
I guess Isdt's idea of overvoltage protection = smd blocking diodes... /smh
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
thanks!
I think my input side fuse is blown. This video was very helpful.
I do not really understand. what fuse should be put if he can only produce 15 ah? original had 30 Ah fuse?
Help me please. Which smd capacitors are at the top left of the board 6 pieces at the input ??? They burned at my filing at 24 volts. Need a capacity to recover.
You might have better luck contacting ISDT on the issue.
Can you say about size of cooler ?
how about isdt q6 pro totally dead, after i use on storage mode,
just 2 days after i get, and just 2 times for charge, and now totally dead
my charger appears to work but only shows 0.1A charge rate, regardless of what you input. doesn't matter which battery type either, lipo, lead acid, nimh.. same thing.
both of my fuses checked good. damn.
thanks
What the measurements of this fan?
....... My favourite channel ,diagnostic expertise , Cool for cats.
Did you add the needle to the flux tube or did it come with it ?
I had a look on 'FleaBay 'but can't see the metal nozzle ? ? ?
I think it was from this set voltlog.com/y/asfle
...... Thanks Mate,
You should probably have used actual fuse wire, as used to "mend a fuse" in old style mains power fuse boxes, before circuit breakers were used. You can still get it at hardware stores.
Yes, copper is not ideal as fuse wire.
I have the same problem. Its safe use the charger with that fix?
Manel Correia yes
helpful video, thanks, I 'd come across it because my copy of the charger produced the magic smoke this morning. Unfortunately I am not so lucky as you lot. I have a blown IC which I can't find anywhere on-line. I typed an e-mail to ISDT, I hope they can help me out.
yup, emailing them is your best bet.
I've been using my original one for nearly 3 years of everyday use, but I needed to break my pack down and use 2 chargers. They knew what was wrong with it without looking so that must had been a ongoing issue. The B6 Mini is 40 dollars
What’s the point in putting a fuse in a circuit if you can’t easily replace it?! I don’t understand. Is it to protect the battery?
prevent fire :-)
VoltLog Ah! Makes sense.
I soldered the fuse and now the "-" and "+" of the output are connected permanently. Any idea what to do about that?
you have something else broken in there.
Stupid that the selftest cannot detect if it recieves voltage on the output.
My friend i have the isdt D2 . Suddenly i hear a breaking sound inside and it turned off suddenly . What do you think it might be the problem
Can't help you with that but a good starting point would be to take it apart and check for obvious signs.
VoltLog a tiny capacitor was burnt
that is unusual but I'm glad to hear you found the fault.
VoltLog if there is another way i contact you let me know. I found the TEA1716T next to its comppfc the capacitor was burnt and there was a short of the comppfc with ground pads near. I changed the small capacitor but still the whole charger is dead.
Sounds like there is more damage, unfortunately without a schematic this is going to be difficult to fix.
I like those repairs. Have seen some weird things with passive components more than once, even right out of the box.
But I hate to see scratches on that screen. Maybe try some car polish or displex (which is more expensive) and then put on the protector.
will try to get a car polish kit at LIDL next time they stock it. thanks!
Yup, those scratch repair kits work really well. Not sure if you have an Action shop around you or maybe can send. Saw those scratch repair kits for 2.35 euro. Also on AliExpress I see them for like 1 or 2 dollars. Might even try toothpaste.
should I give this one a try? www.aliexpress.com/item/Car-Body-Compound-Paste-Set-Scratch-Paint-Care-Auto-Polishing-Grinding-Compound-Car-Motorcycle-Automobiles-Paste/32799937821.html
For the price I would buy it. Think I also have one of those here. But first try it on some other scratched plastic just to be sure.
Just gave it a very quick shot on my Maya charger. This is a really old kit and the substance is runny, meaning it doesn't do it's job properly. Before ua-cam.com/video/b7pnPbxM3U8/v-deo.html after ua-cam.com/video/WCCwZ_KItTA/v-deo.html
edit : also check the text on the plexy is on the bottom side since otherwise it might be removed by the process.
Where did you buy that batteries from?
I get my turnigy batteries from Hobbyking voltlog.com/y/k5t61 they have good price/quality ratio. Also cheap shipping within the EU from their EU wharehouse.
Sadly they dont deliver to india
My q6 plus has a weird fault where it won't complete the charge unless all the cells are the same voltage to start with. If there is any imbalance then it just stops when the first cell reaches the target voltage.
I have no idea what could be wrong but you should try writing to ISDT about this issue, they might point you in the right direction.
VoltLog Thanks I emailed them. I also emailed BG where I got it and they didn't even offer to replace it and first asked me to take it apart on a hunch about some components. Then when I said I don't want to mess with it in case I have a lipo fire they offered me 500 BG points and $10. I paid way more than that. :(
Hello my friend i have isdt q6 lite
When i charge to 3.15
Cell 1.. 4.12
Cell 2.. 4.12
Cell 3.. 4.12
Cell 4.. 4.15
Always cell 4 full first
I have try many lipo
I have calibration and factory reset
Please tell Me how i can fixed.
What part i must change
Please help
we have same problem. did you try to figure out the problem?
I have a problem with this same charger, with this same hardware version. When I connect a 4-cell battery, the charger indicates the wrong voltage in the fourth cell and indicates a voltage similar to the fourth cell in the sixth cell (even though it does not have a 6-cell battery connected). Do you have any clues as to where the problem might be that causes it?
I have no idea, you would need to investigate and reverse engineer the circuit but sounds like it might be a short somewhere in the circuit.
Great material. In my case the capacitor fell and caused another failure. And I think it burned what's on the picture (www.pracownia-promyk.pl/img/IMG_0aa136a.jpg ). The charger is charging, but the discharge is not working. Could you check what is the element, how to replace it?
You should try contacting ISDT, maybe they can help with the value of that component.
@@voltlog Ok. I wrote to them. Do you think it's worth repairing? I wonder if after a while, something else will not break down.
@@user-qt1og8eb4l In my case it was worth repairing, I've been using it ever since.
@@voltlog Thank you for the advice. I will try to fix it.
I think you might have simply got a bad component out of the lot of thousands that ISDT gets. Your theory about something being in a conducting state could be possible, but anything with FETs should have a large resistor from the gate to source to force cutoff when powered down. In my experience, the simple explanations are best, so I would opt for bad component in the lot.
Now seeing other comments about the same thing... Your theory suddenly has more potential in my mind! xD
So now the Question is .... Are you going to order A New fuse and replace the copper wire later ? Or just keep the copper wire it's
place ?
I did find a replacement on Digikey but it's pretty expensive for me to order stuff from Digikey so the answer is no, I will keep the fix as is.
What type of fuse is it I can order from digikey pretty simply here only take a day to arrive since it is very close to me ... Give me the info and maybe i can help you out on that issue
thank you for the kind offer but I don't think it's worth your time or the cost of postage, I can just replace the wire if it ever fails. This is the fuse if anyone needs it: www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bel-fuse-inc/0685H9300-01/507-1947-1-ND/5466719
The only thing I don't like about ISDT Q6 Plus is that it resets the pcs charged count to zero after you reach 1000+pcs. It would be great if it held the count properly.
Really ? which FW ? im on +600 pcs right now..
@@Cre8ionz. Not sure what firmware but ISDT said in email that it can't count past 1000 so it resets. I have see this myself.
Esti roman? :)
They want a lot of money for what it's really worth... If they're going to sell this for that price, they shouldn't be using B stock or crap components... I was on the edge of buying this and I purchased a Imax B6 Mini because they have a name
MrBrymstond Even the imax b6 mini has issues after all this time of been on the market..
I've been using my original B6 Mini for nearly 3 years of everyday use, but I needed to break my pack down and use 2 chargers. They knew what was wrong with it without looking so that must had been a ongoing issue. The B6 Mini is 40 dollars
had one I threw away because of this issue. ordered a 2nd thinking it was a fluke, what do you know? here I am again with the 2nd one I purchased! Same fucking problem. What shitty chargers. I have 5 and 6 year old hobbyking ones that still work fine.
Ornery Fpv don't throw them away. Repair them.
Chinese components? ;)
maybe. At this point I am not sure if was a defect within the fuse itself or is this a defect in the software or architecture that would somehow create a path to short-circuit a battery connected on to the output or if it's something I did wrong like connecting a battery before the charger is powered on, because they do mention that in the user manual. If I were to design a charger like this it would seem logic to design it in such a way that it would do nothing when powered off.
Do not do this. I repeated the actions of the author of the video and burned the battery connector.
- stores Li-io at storage charge for safety reasons, ACK
- replaces fuse w/ bare wire, NACK. Shows lack of basic understanding of a fuse. What about safety-awareness?
- talking about 14A, is it pulse-length? Is it continuous? At any rate, seriously talking about 14A w/ such a device is ridiculous. Stop it. Thinking positive, this is at most chinese amperage, so taken w/ lots of grains of salt, I would not rely on this device handling more than a third of what it's declared of being capable of. A third, probably that's pushing already. So: NACK.
- explanation causing the fault, while I doubt that, if so, it is bad eningeering.
YMMV.
- 1 sub.