*Tools and Parts* This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you. KYB Strut ONLY (Front Left): amzn.to/2NaRPlx COMPLETE KYB Strut Assembly (Front Left): amzn.to/2QgoYPg KYB Strut ONLY (Front Right): amzn.to/2NbFops COMPLETE KYB Strut Assembly (Front Right): amzn.to/32GgRfQ Daytona Jack (Cheaper at HF with Coupon): amzn.to/2LtHfUP Jack Stands (Cheaper at HF with Coupon): amzn.to/2LLWSWr MIlwaukee 3/8" Impact Wrench: amzn.to/2LRwryu Sunex 3/8" Impact Sockets: amzn.to/2NXij9O My Favorite Small Screwdriver: amzn.to/2Lv0HAp GearWrench Ratchets: amzn.to/2Nc1YOJ GearWrench Sockets: amzn.to/2NYlr5m Milwaukee M12 3/8" Cordless Ratchet: amzn.to/2NT7KEG Branick Professional Spring Compressor: amzn.to/2Nbdl9K Snap-On Torque Wrench: bit.ly/2TzsaU0 GearWrench Metric Wrenches: amzn.to/2LQ4Rle Neiko long hex sockets: amzn.to/2N9Acm0 Craftsman pass through socket set: amzn.to/2LsKyvn Upper strut mounting nuts Honda part # 90304-S10-024 Lower strut bolts Honda part # 90190-SNA-000 Lower strut nuts Honda part # 90213-SR3-013 The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive
Sadly, after doing this job, got an alignment, and it slightly pulled to the right. 3 alignments later, same results. Did some searches, it's a prevalent issue, lots of reports, no solid answers.
Man I'm loving your options in tools. I like that Craftsman socket and ratchet set. Anyone who owns a car like that and wants to tackle this job now has a complete set of video instructions. Nice work.
You're the best man, I'm doing this tomorrow morning and I've watched endless videos in the last few months to get prepared. Your's is the most informative, thorough video I've found
I followed your video from start to finished and I was able to change out my daughters front strut assembly as well as the rear struts without any issues. Your video provided a step by step method that allowed a novice like me to do the work. It saved me money as well as provided me with knowledge and satisfaction of doing the work myself. Thank you.
The reason I like watching your videos compared to other DIY’ers is that you are concise to the point and thorough job. Well done sir. I have ordered some parts through your links to say my thanks!
Thank you for posting these, I’m subscribed now , I own a ‘07 civic and ran into your channel while searching for videos on front strut replacement. Very well detailed and clear video. Much praise from me
Excellent video. A lot of people can do a job, but explaining how to do that job in a manner that others can duplicate is an art in itself. You showed everything you need to know to get the job done, straight and simple. My new go to channel for car repair. Keep up the good work and thanks!
Please keep doing videos for us, get a project car, break it down into all the different automobile sections such as engine, ignition, chassis, transmission systems. Charge us a small fee to access the channel. You are a gifted trainer, Legend!
Thank you for this video. My '06 Civic sedan likely needs new front struts. The right front makes a clunking noise going over any bumps, even small ones. This doesn't look terribly difficult or time consuming, especially when using a complete replacement strut. Both the dealership and a local independent have now quoted me at over $1,400 for replacing both front struts and alignment. The Honda dealership will be using OEM, which of course costs more than AMP, but the independent shop is only $60 less for KYB's, but they're saying I'd need new mounting brackets, bellows(?), and bearings. I can't even imagine what bearing there is to replace! What's a fair price I should be expecting to pay for replacing both front strut assemblies, as I don't have the tools or confidence to do this myself. Thank you
When you buy complete strut assemblies they come with all of that stuff, bellows, upper mounts, bearings, springs etc. On this Civic, you can buy complete assemblies from either Honda (online $350 each) or KYB (online $125 each), but the bolts/nuts that should be replaced would need to be purchased separately. As far as installation costs, it varies by region and shops generally charge the fee based on their hourly rate ($75-$150 per hour is the norm) x how long the job should take. If a shop replaces the entire strut assembly the shop should charge less labor per side than if they have to replace the strut with a spring compressor like I showed in this video. An alignment would be another labor charge (typically an hour). If you live in the rust belt, an additional charge for dealing with older rusty fasteners would be appropriate. $1,400 seems about the norm for a dealership but seems a bit overpriced for an independent shop especially if they are using aftermarket parts, at least in my opinion.
@@BigDog50001 Thank you so much. I was just watching your video on checking for a broken engine mount- lol. The car seems to drive just fine. There's little to no dive or body roll when braking or turning. When I push up and down hard on the front end, there's no noticeable slop or softness in the suspension. The alignment is a tiny bit off, though. I can't find anywhere that says that a clunking noise is associated with worn or bad struts, but ball joints, yes. Looking over the dealer inspection report, it seems as though a tech just test drove it and heard the clunking noise, and decided I needed all new struts just based on that. I know they rotated the tires as part of a basic service, but no mention of actually checking for looseness or damage anywhere while they had it up and the wheels off. They just wanted to charge me $1,400 to replace the struts w/o actually positively identifying the source of the passenger side clunking noise.
Oustanding video. Thank you very much for sharing with all of us. I am trying to help out a friend of mine with the replacement of the struts on her 2006 Honda, and your video shows all is needed to do the work. Thanks again.
Just about to do a complete strut/shock replacement on my Type R FN2. I'm a prevention is better than cure kind of guy so anything that looks slightly worn i will replace it. Great video, clear information, good camera work and audio.
Thanks for the video brother, clean and simple! For those that don't know, auto parts store usually have spring compressors to rent that work also... just did it. Easy peasy, super quick maintenance.
Also, for installing the piston nut on top (you know, the one you MUST replace (before releasing spring tension) without grabbing onto the piston itself and ruining your new strut, use a 1/2" drive deep well socket (my new one was a 19mm I believe), and since you can't stick a regular ratchet on there, just grab onto the outside of the deep well socket with a pair of vise grips and stick your Allen driver through the socket's drive hole. If the center of the piston on the new strut (or old one for that matter) does not receive an allen wrench but instead takes a regular socket (like my new ones), just stick a 1/4" drive socket on it (in my case it was a 9mm) right on the end and then put your big nut socket on OVER the small 9mm socket and stick a 1/4" extension through the nut socket's drive hole to engage the 9mm socket. Its a great work around and even ratchets! (assuming you use a 1/4" drive ratchet). Hope that helps the next guy.
Am about to do this job on my '08 Civic. You make it look easy. It should go even easier since I plan to use KYB quick struts. Appreciate the part numbers and torque specs. I can't put this job off any longer, she's bottoming out and clunking pretty badly.
Yo man you know how to make excellent videos and your a great mechanic instructor/teacher love your videos makes a job more easier Thank you keep up your good work.
Just love your videos but I have to change all my tools from standard aircraft tools to metric automotive tools but being a tool junkie mechanic I love it. Will get the sockets and the spring compressor. Absolutely love your videos and your selection of quality parts. Like I said I own Hondas and they are in immaculate condition and have no intentions of replacing them. 👍❤️
I just replaced both my struts on my 06 Honda Civic LX Sedan. I did half of these steps and my process was faster but I had to come watch this to double check I installed mine correctly. If you know what your doing it shouldn’t take more than 10-15 minutes per strut. Edit: I took off both windshield wipers and the black cover he’s working under. For whoever is reading this don’t take off the bolts from the top like he is. If you know what your doing you can take off that whole black panel up on top and work with a ratchet and extension way easier and faster.
Hi great video, i follow your instruction it work great for the driver side (right hand model) but somehow the passager side wont slide in properly it like the axel shaft get in way, any idea how to solve it?
Sir, thank you for this excellent video. You mentioned the torque specs for the SI on the upper bolts but did not give specs for the lower 19 mm bolts. Any chance you have that info? Thanks
Great video! Question, if I have to replace the cv axle as well; can I do both at the same time? Seems like it would be easier with the strut out of the way, but I’ve never done it. 😅
If I did not show it in the video, then they were not replaced. If I remember correctly, they were not bad on this car at that time and it saved the owner money by not replacing them. If money is no object, then sure I would have replaced them too.
Sir great video, quick question?, I just picked up 2007 coupe Honda Civic, 81,000 miles. And the strut boots are shredded, I ordered new oem boots, any tip to install with out removing strut, thks
Can I buy cheaper struts on ebay or is that not recommended? I found some for around $130 for both and thought that was a good deal, or should I not be cheap and buy more expensive ones? Thanks!
You load the suspension bu jacking under the lower ball joint. I can’t do that because I have a grease fitting in the way. Can I jack under the rotor instead?
Thanks for the video! Recently hit a decent-sized piece of metal from debris on the interstate cut a good hole in my tread wear. After it happened I noticed a banging sound when I hit bumps even small ones like someone hitting the floorboard with a sledgehammer, so I think it damaged the strut plus the car has over 300,000 miles on it LOL. Do I need to Jack the entire front of the car off the ground or can I jack up each side independently to get the wheel off the ground? Thx.
Personally, if I can avoid it, I don't work on vehicles that are only lifted on one side (more unstable). Another issue is if lifting only one side with a jack (and using the designated side lift point), then there is no place to put the jack stand. For this reason I generally use the lift point in the front center and use 2 jack stands (faster and easier than jacking up car twice when doing work on both sides). On these Hondas I only use the designated lift points and I don't get under vehicles unless jack stands are in place.
It is so unfair!!! no rust for you. That is like cheating! haha! I have a set of the pass thru and have not needed them yet but I have them if I do! great instructional video as always.
Random question. When I replaced my front struts I didn’t put the strut under load when torquing all the bolts (top 3 bolts and the 2 bolts that go through the steering knuckle). Been driving the car for 6 months now and have a creaking sound coming from driver side when turning at slow speeds. I’m thinking its possibly because I didn’t torque the bolts when under load. Would I be better off just buying brand new struts again or could I use the struts that are currently on the car but retorque all the bolts when its under load?
Sorry if someone has already asked this, but have you used the KYB strut plus assembly before? I’m getting ready to install those on my civic. I’m wondering if they’re preloaded, meaning I don’t need to load the strut before torquing everything down. Thanks for your help!
It is good practice to always load the suspension before final torque when installing struts. The biggest reason is the rubber bushings should be tightened down in the position they will ride on the car so they don't get twisted up and fail prematurely.
Hi. A question, Honda service manuals say "Do not place the jack against the ball joint of the lower arm." Would that not risk causing damange the way you raised it to put it under load?
Typically that warning is for conventional ball joints that have the ball joint stud protruding through the bottom, this design does not have that (on this model the ball joint stud is pointing up). If the ball joint stud was on the bottom, I will usually put the jack next to the stud not directly underneath it. That being said, there is no warning like that for these Civics (2006-2011) in Honda Service Information for strut replacement (or ball joint replacement). This is the only statement on it: "Raise the front suspension with a floor jack to load the suspension with the vehicle's weight."
@@BigDog50001 Thanks for the reply. The service manual was for a 2010 Jazz, where the stud is also up, like the civic. But thinking about it now, the ball joint is a seperate piece from the control arm and is pressed in. The civic you showed, the ball joint is encased in its own seperate housing, which is safe to lift from.
If you mean the torque wrench I used in the video, its a 3/8" Flex Tech Angle Torque Wrench from Snap-On. They are not cheap bit.ly/2TzsaU0 Thanks for the comment!
The practice of tightening suspension components under load is to put them into the positions they will ride on the car most of the time, this is especially important for rubber bushings that might get twisted up and fail prematurely if tightened in a position other than where the car normally rides.
Dave, I appreciate the professional approach to your video. I'll check out others too. I need to fix a power steering leak (Honda Civic 2006-2011), either its the pump or the "O" rings. Do you have a video on that process or plans to complete one? Can you give me the socket set kit number from Craftsman or the correct tool name since it's hollow shaft? Thank you! Cheyenne
I do not have a video on those yet. Here is the link to the pass through socket set I have, other companies make a similar set. Craftsman pass through socket set: amzn.to/2LsKyvn Thanks for the comment!
Thank you very nice presentation first rate ..What about the top bearing plates?? ..are they reusable all the time also boot and bump stop?...Thanks again Happy New Year! Be safe
They don't have to be replaced every time, but if there is any doubt then it is best to replace them. At that point I generally buy the entire strut assembly which comes with everything. I stick to KYB for Hondas when I buy complete assemblies.
If i am going to change my stabilizer bar links as well should i do the struts first and links second or stabilizer links first and struts second? Or does it not matter? Thank you for video.
Thanks...but wondering what was wrong with the original strut? Didnt see any leakage, shaft looked straight and clean. What was the problem you were trying to fix?
Leaking can be a good indication but they don't always show leaks. If I remember correctly they lost their dampening ability, so it was a very poor ride and it would lose it's composure over bumps. I see this a lot on Hondas in the 150,000 -200,000 mile range.
Excellent video, a couple of important points...1st, it is really important to know that a civic sedan and a civic coupe use different struts, civic coupe is not compatible with the civic sedan...2nd, sadly, KYB at this writing does not make a full quick strut for the civic coupe
Putting the new strut in, I cannot get the bottom to go over the cv axle. I can line it up into the holes obviously, and ill catch one or two to hold it but from there I just cant seem to get it over the axle
Be sure to subscribe for more tool and car repair videos! ua-cam.com/users/BigDog50001 twitter.com/BigDog50001 instagram.com/bigdog50001/ Disclosure: This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you. The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive
What would happen if you didn't put the suspension under load like you did with the floor jack under the ball joint? By that I mean torqueing the bolts without the load
Most common issue is rubber suspension bushings can be tightened in an incorrect position, which can cause them to bind when the vehicle is returned to normal ride height. Basically, it can shorten the life of the rubber bushings. Some designs are more susceptible to this than others.
An FYI. If you buy aftermarket Strut Assembly, like a "KYB Strut-Plus Assembly", you're going to be an apparatus to retract the spring in order to align the two bolts. Was disappointed after all the work with removing the OEM part on the car. Good Luck!!
*Tools and Parts*
This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you.
KYB Strut ONLY (Front Left): amzn.to/2NaRPlx
COMPLETE KYB Strut Assembly (Front Left): amzn.to/2QgoYPg
KYB Strut ONLY (Front Right): amzn.to/2NbFops
COMPLETE KYB Strut Assembly (Front Right): amzn.to/32GgRfQ
Daytona Jack (Cheaper at HF with Coupon): amzn.to/2LtHfUP
Jack Stands (Cheaper at HF with Coupon): amzn.to/2LLWSWr
MIlwaukee 3/8" Impact Wrench: amzn.to/2LRwryu
Sunex 3/8" Impact Sockets: amzn.to/2NXij9O
My Favorite Small Screwdriver: amzn.to/2Lv0HAp
GearWrench Ratchets: amzn.to/2Nc1YOJ
GearWrench Sockets: amzn.to/2NYlr5m
Milwaukee M12 3/8" Cordless Ratchet: amzn.to/2NT7KEG
Branick Professional Spring Compressor: amzn.to/2Nbdl9K
Snap-On Torque Wrench: bit.ly/2TzsaU0
GearWrench Metric Wrenches: amzn.to/2LQ4Rle
Neiko long hex sockets: amzn.to/2N9Acm0
Craftsman pass through socket set: amzn.to/2LsKyvn
Upper strut mounting nuts Honda part # 90304-S10-024
Lower strut bolts Honda part # 90190-SNA-000
Lower strut nuts Honda part # 90213-SR3-013
The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive
Sadly, after doing this job, got an alignment, and it slightly pulled to the right. 3 alignments later, same results. Did some searches, it's a prevalent issue, lots of reports, no solid answers.
Man I'm loving your options in tools. I like that Craftsman socket and ratchet set. Anyone who owns a car like that and wants to tackle this job now has a complete set of video instructions. Nice work.
I know, I know, I have a tool problem lol! Thanks for the comment Wyatt!
As we all do..lol.
You're the best man, I'm doing this tomorrow morning and I've watched endless videos in the last few months to get prepared. Your's is the most informative, thorough video I've found
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
Its amazing how clean, organized, and thorough you are in your videos. You deserve WAY more subscribers!! Ill make sure to spread the word.
Thanks, I appreciate it!
I followed your video from start to finished and I was able to change out my daughters front strut assembly as well as the rear struts without any issues. Your video provided a step by step method that allowed a novice like me to do the work. It saved me money as well as provided me with knowledge and satisfaction of doing the work myself. Thank you.
Awesome! I appreciate the comment, thank you!
The reason I like watching your videos compared to other DIY’ers is that you are concise to the point and thorough job. Well done sir. I have ordered some parts through your links to say my thanks!
Thank you, I appreciate the support!
Thank you for posting these, I’m subscribed now , I own a ‘07 civic and ran into your channel while searching for videos on front strut replacement. Very well detailed and clear video. Much praise from me
Thanks for the comment and welcome!
Excellent video. A lot of people can do a job, but explaining how to do that job in a manner that others can duplicate is an art in itself. You showed everything you need to know to get the job done, straight and simple. My new go to channel for car repair. Keep up the good work and thanks!
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
Please keep doing videos for us, get a project car, break it down into all the different automobile sections such as engine, ignition, chassis, transmission systems. Charge us a small fee to access the channel. You are a gifted trainer, Legend!
Such a well done video, you just saved me so many unforeseen headaches and I haven’t even started.
Thank you, a lot of work goes into making a video in addition to the work necessary for the repair, I appreciate the comment!
Great tips Big Dog. Best video on replacing the front struts on the Honda Civic.
Thank you for this video. My '06 Civic sedan likely needs new front struts. The right front makes a clunking noise going over any bumps, even small ones. This doesn't look terribly difficult or time consuming, especially when using a complete replacement strut. Both the dealership and a local independent have now quoted me at over $1,400 for replacing both front struts and alignment. The Honda dealership will be using OEM, which of course costs more than AMP, but the independent shop is only $60 less for KYB's, but they're saying I'd need new mounting brackets, bellows(?), and bearings. I can't even imagine what bearing there is to replace! What's a fair price I should be expecting to pay for replacing both front strut assemblies, as I don't have the tools or confidence to do this myself. Thank you
When you buy complete strut assemblies they come with all of that stuff, bellows, upper mounts, bearings, springs etc. On this Civic, you can buy complete assemblies from either Honda (online $350 each) or KYB (online $125 each), but the bolts/nuts that should be replaced would need to be purchased separately.
As far as installation costs, it varies by region and shops generally charge the fee based on their hourly rate ($75-$150 per hour is the norm) x how long the job should take. If a shop replaces the entire strut assembly the shop should charge less labor per side than if they have to replace the strut with a spring compressor like I showed in this video. An alignment would be another labor charge (typically an hour). If you live in the rust belt, an additional charge for dealing with older rusty fasteners would be appropriate.
$1,400 seems about the norm for a dealership but seems a bit overpriced for an independent shop especially if they are using aftermarket parts, at least in my opinion.
@@BigDog50001 Thank you so much. I was just watching your video on checking for a broken engine mount- lol. The car seems to drive just fine. There's little to no dive or body roll when braking or turning. When I push up and down hard on the front end, there's no noticeable slop or softness in the suspension. The alignment is a tiny bit off, though. I can't find anywhere that says that a clunking noise is associated with worn or bad struts, but ball joints, yes. Looking over the dealer inspection report, it seems as though a tech just test drove it and heard the clunking noise, and decided I needed all new struts just based on that. I know they rotated the tires as part of a basic service, but no mention of actually checking for looseness or damage anywhere while they had it up and the wheels off. They just wanted to charge me $1,400 to replace the struts w/o actually positively identifying the source of the passenger side clunking noise.
You can do the strut replacement yourself. Alignment is another thing. You are getting f----d.
Oustanding video. Thank you very much for sharing with all of us. I am trying to help out a friend of mine with the replacement of the struts on her 2006 Honda, and your video shows all is needed to do the work. Thanks again.
Just about to do a complete strut/shock replacement on my Type R FN2. I'm a prevention is better than cure kind of guy so anything that looks slightly worn i will replace it. Great video, clear information, good camera work and audio.
Thank you for the comment!
Thanks for the video brother, clean and simple! For those that don't know, auto parts store usually have spring compressors to rent that work also... just did it. Easy peasy, super quick maintenance.
Also, for installing the piston nut on top (you know, the one you MUST replace (before releasing spring tension) without grabbing onto the piston itself and ruining your new strut, use a 1/2" drive deep well socket (my new one was a 19mm I believe), and since you can't stick a regular ratchet on there, just grab onto the outside of the deep well socket with a pair of vise grips and stick your Allen driver through the socket's drive hole. If the center of the piston on the new strut (or old one for that matter) does not receive an allen wrench but instead takes a regular socket (like my new ones), just stick a 1/4" drive socket on it (in my case it was a 9mm) right on the end and then put your big nut socket on OVER the small 9mm socket and stick a 1/4" extension through the nut socket's drive hole to engage the 9mm socket. Its a great work around and even ratchets! (assuming you use a 1/4" drive ratchet). Hope that helps the next guy.
Just wanna say thank you for this video. Just finished replacing the struts on mine.
Thanks for the comment!
Extremely well done Sir. Great detailed explanations and precise specifications.
Thank you for the comment!
Doing this job right now, and you've got the best video on the net. Thank you!!!
The 12 people who thumbs down this video are probably not as handy and are super jealous. Great Video! Very Detailed!
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
Your attention to details helps so much thanks.
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
Muy buen video, muestra un trabajo profesional y un gusto por hacer las cosas bien. Te felicito Dave y agradezco tu tiempo.
Thanks!
Great Mechanic! You’re a top notch Mechanic.
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
Am about to do this job on my '08 Civic. You make it look easy. It should go even easier since I plan to use KYB quick struts. Appreciate the part numbers and torque specs. I can't put this job off any longer, she's bottoming out and clunking pretty badly.
👍
Really great quality video and you didn't miss out on a single detail. I appreciate the hard work, thanks!
Thanks!
Yo man you know how to make excellent videos and your a great mechanic instructor/teacher love your videos makes a job more easier Thank you keep up your good work.
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
Great video. Learned a lot. And kudos to the camera man, Dave
Glad it was helpful!
Just love your videos but I have to change all my tools from standard aircraft tools to metric automotive tools but being a tool junkie mechanic I love it. Will get the sockets and the spring compressor. Absolutely love your videos and your selection of quality parts. Like I said I own Hondas and they are in immaculate condition and have no intentions of replacing them. 👍❤️
Thank you, I really appreciate the comment!
Just changed my shocks. It went just as you described. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment!
I have the same craftsman set. I rarely use it, but for moments like these, it’s clutch!
I just enjoy your work .Very neat and clean . Excellent. Wish the shop guys do the same way
I just replaced both my struts on my 06 Honda Civic LX Sedan. I did half of these steps and my process was faster but I had to come watch this to double check I installed mine correctly. If you know what your doing it shouldn’t take more than 10-15 minutes per strut.
Edit: I took off both windshield wipers and the black cover he’s working under. For whoever is reading this don’t take off the bolts from the top like he is. If you know what your doing you can take off that whole black panel up on top and work with a ratchet and extension way easier and faster.
I have never worked on a car before. You think I should attempt it myself or take it into the shop?
@authenticcalisthenics7825 Are you mechanically inclined? If so, you could do it. If not, take it to a shop.
You rock Big Dog!!! Followed your directions to the T and was able to do this. Thank you.
Thank you sir. Definitely coming back to your video when I decide to tackle this job. Earn a subscriber.
Hi great video, i follow your instruction it work great for the driver side (right hand model) but somehow the passager side wont slide in properly it like the axel shaft get in way, any idea how to solve it?
Sir, thank you for this excellent video. You mentioned the torque specs for the SI on the upper bolts but did not give specs for the lower 19 mm bolts. Any chance you have that info? Thanks
So detailed, so professional, so awesome.
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
how have the kyb struts been holding up? how do they compare to the oem strut? and loud noises or clunks?
Felicidades, de verdad que se aprende con tu canal. Saludos desde Panamá.
Great video! Question, if I have to replace the cv axle as well; can I do both at the same time? Seems like it would be easier with the strut out of the way, but I’ve never done it. 😅
Question - did you also replace the strut mounts, the spring insulators and the mount bushings? Can you say why or why not?
If I did not show it in the video, then they were not replaced. If I remember correctly, they were not bad on this car at that time and it saved the owner money by not replacing them. If money is no object, then sure I would have replaced them too.
Sir great video, quick question?, I just picked up 2007 coupe Honda Civic, 81,000 miles. And the strut boots are shredded, I ordered new oem boots, any tip to install with out removing strut, thks
Can I buy cheaper struts on ebay or is that not recommended? I found some for around $130 for both and thought that was a good deal, or should I not be cheap and buy more expensive ones? Thanks!
Great video, straight to the point and very good explanation. Thank you, God bless.
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
Excellent honest and very complete content. It's appreciated.
Thanks for the comment 👍!
Fantastic video. Wife’s car just failed the mot test because of a broken front spring.
Thank you for the comment!
Imi place tare mult cum lucrezi cu dinamometrica!!
You load the suspension bu jacking under the lower ball joint. I can’t do that because I have a grease fitting in the way. Can I jack under the rotor instead?
very professional and detailed I respect your job
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
Awesome! It's easier & faster that I expected. Thanks for the Great Tutorial Video!!
Thank you for the comment!
After the struts have been changed do we need a wheel alignment?
Hi is it a specific millage you supposed to change it? Or just if it's damage?
Thanks for the video! Recently hit a decent-sized piece of metal from debris on the interstate cut a good hole in my tread wear. After it happened I noticed a banging sound when I hit bumps even small ones like someone hitting the floorboard with a sledgehammer, so I think it damaged the strut plus the car has over 300,000 miles on it LOL. Do I need to Jack the entire front of the car off the ground or can I jack up each side independently to get the wheel off the ground? Thx.
Personally, if I can avoid it, I don't work on vehicles that are only lifted on one side (more unstable). Another issue is if lifting only one side with a jack (and using the designated side lift point), then there is no place to put the jack stand. For this reason I generally use the lift point in the front center and use 2 jack stands (faster and easier than jacking up car twice when doing work on both sides). On these Hondas I only use the designated lift points and I don't get under vehicles unless jack stands are in place.
Great video, do we really need a wheel alignment after only shock replacement
It is so unfair!!! no rust for you. That is like cheating! haha! I have a set of the pass thru and have not needed them yet but I have them if I do! great instructional video as always.
I do feel guilty a little bit, just a little bit though! Thanks Mike!
Well done, Good process and method, safe and smart.
Thanks!
Random question. When I replaced my front struts I didn’t put the strut under load when torquing all the bolts (top 3 bolts and the 2 bolts that go through the steering knuckle). Been driving the car for 6 months now and have a creaking sound coming from driver side when turning at slow speeds. I’m thinking its possibly because I didn’t torque the bolts when under load. Would I be better off just buying brand new struts again or could I use the struts that are currently on the car but retorque all the bolts when its under load?
Sorry if someone has already asked this, but have you used the KYB strut plus assembly before? I’m getting ready to install those on my civic. I’m wondering if they’re preloaded, meaning I don’t need to load the strut before torquing everything down. Thanks for your help!
It is good practice to always load the suspension before final torque when installing struts. The biggest reason is the rubber bushings should be tightened down in the position they will ride on the car so they don't get twisted up and fail prematurely.
nice. really appreciate putting this video, i have a civic mk8, but still this is a fabulous video :) hats off...
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
Hi. A question, Honda service manuals say "Do not place the jack against the ball joint of the lower arm." Would that not risk causing damange the way you raised it to put it under load?
Typically that warning is for conventional ball joints that have the ball joint stud protruding through the bottom, this design does not have that (on this model the ball joint stud is pointing up). If the ball joint stud was on the bottom, I will usually put the jack next to the stud not directly underneath it. That being said, there is no warning like that for these Civics (2006-2011) in Honda Service Information for strut replacement (or ball joint replacement). This is the only statement on it: "Raise the front suspension with a floor jack to load the suspension with the vehicle's weight."
@@BigDog50001 Thanks for the reply. The service manual was for a 2010 Jazz, where the stud is also up, like the civic. But thinking about it now, the ball joint is a seperate piece from the control arm and is pressed in. The civic you showed, the ball joint is encased in its own seperate housing, which is safe to lift from.
Do you need to put the bolts all the same pressure? Or I can do it with a normal one just tight it up?
Excellent as always Big Dog500001!!!!!
Thanks, I always appreciate the comments from you!
For 2017 Honda civic what is the torque for the front struts flange nuts (3) on top ? Is it 68ft pound or no.
Amazing video I need to change my ASAP but where did you get the tool for tuning the torque on the bolts would really appreciate feedback thanks!
If you mean the torque wrench I used in the video, its a 3/8" Flex Tech Angle Torque Wrench from Snap-On. They are not cheap bit.ly/2TzsaU0 Thanks for the comment!
What’s the reason for setting the car’s weight on suspension before tightening all strut fasteners??
The practice of tightening suspension components under load is to put them into the positions they will ride on the car most of the time, this is especially important for rubber bushings that might get twisted up and fail prematurely if tightened in a position other than where the car normally rides.
Do you have to use that compressor tool? I'm asking because I don't have that.
Hey bud if I don't have the tools you used for the top nut strut assembly can i get it done with a impact driver?
Thank you
Dave,
I appreciate the professional approach to your video. I'll check out others too. I need to fix a power steering leak (Honda Civic 2006-2011), either its the pump or the "O" rings. Do you have a video on that process or plans to complete one? Can you give me the socket set kit number from Craftsman or the correct tool name since it's hollow shaft? Thank you!
Cheyenne
I do not have a video on those yet. Here is the link to the pass through socket set I have, other companies make a similar set. Craftsman pass through socket set: amzn.to/2LsKyvn Thanks for the comment!
Thank you very nice presentation first rate ..What about the top bearing plates?? ..are they reusable all the time also boot and bump stop?...Thanks again Happy New Year! Be safe
They don't have to be replaced every time, but if there is any doubt then it is best to replace them. At that point I generally buy the entire strut assembly which comes with everything. I stick to KYB for Hondas when I buy complete assemblies.
Very thorough and well presented. Keep em comin !
Thanks!
If i am going to change my stabilizer bar links as well should i do the struts first and links second or stabilizer links first and struts second? Or does it not matter? Thank you for video.
Great question, wish someone could address it.
It doesn't matter, but I think it would be easier to do with the struts out of the way.
Why is it necessary that the suspension be put under load before the lower strut bolts are torqued? What happens if it is done without any load?
Best explained video ever. Thanks
Thanks...but wondering what was wrong with the original strut? Didnt see any leakage, shaft looked straight and clean. What was the problem you were trying to fix?
Leaking can be a good indication but they don't always show leaks. If I remember correctly they lost their dampening ability, so it was a very poor ride and it would lose it's composure over bumps. I see this a lot on Hondas in the 150,000 -200,000 mile range.
How do I realign the top bolt on the strut with the knuckle? I can’t even remove it because I can’t get it aligned
Does the top mount orientation have to be in a specific way/direction?
There are small arrows (triangles) on the top of genuine Honda ones that need to face towards the front of the vehicle (slightly to the outside).
Great quality content! Could you do a honda video about lower ball joint and front wheel bearing replacements? Thanks!
Thanks! I will see what I can do.
Good job,I’m learning something today,thanks
Good video. Is there any particular reason you like KYB?
Excellent video, a couple of important points...1st, it is really important to know that a civic sedan and a civic coupe use different struts, civic coupe is not compatible with the civic sedan...2nd, sadly, KYB at this writing does not make a full quick strut for the civic coupe
Always have to verify parts that's for sure, even Sedans of different trim levels can have different parts. Thanks for the comment!
Putting the new strut in, I cannot get the bottom to go over the cv axle. I can line it up into the holes obviously, and ill catch one or two to hold it but from there I just cant seem to get it over the axle
that torque wrench is awesome!
It does work well, I don't want to use a click style anymore after getting used to this one lol. Thanks for the comment!
Really good explaining videos, nice work
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Dude your videos rock! Very helpful!
What AC unit do you use?
hey I have Civic Si 2012 4doors does it fit Thanks for great explain
Similar but not exact, those have stabilizer links attached to strut. I would verify parts with a Honda dealer or parts store.
Buenas noches cuando haces un video de cambio de amortiguadores del Honda City...por favor.
Jeff Parker told me to stop by... cool channel bud 👍
Very cool, thanks and welcome!
Are all the coilovers the same for FN1,FG,FD3 etc? (Civic 2006-2011 included Hybrid)
What can cause front right tire to bounce around 80-100 mph while turning steering wheel on highway on concrete pavement? Struts ? Unbalanced tire?
Where did you take the torque chart for the bolt
Can this be a sign of a wheel hitting every bump or whole? Making sound?
Bad struts can make noise when hitting bumps, sway bar links (stabilizer links) are also known to cause noise too.
So you don’t have to change the original Honda Springs? As long they are not broken?
Eventually they can wear out but many times they can continue to be used.
Very good tutorial 👌 👍
Thanks
Joe
What would happen if you didn't put the suspension under load like you did with the floor jack under the ball joint? By that I mean torqueing the bolts without the load
Most common issue is rubber suspension bushings can be tightened in an incorrect position, which can cause them to bind when the vehicle is returned to normal ride height. Basically, it can shorten the life of the rubber bushings. Some designs are more susceptible to this than others.
An FYI. If you buy aftermarket Strut Assembly, like a "KYB Strut-Plus Assembly", you're going to be an apparatus to retract the spring in order to align the two bolts. Was disappointed after all the work with removing the OEM part on the car. Good Luck!!
Good job,I learned something today, thanks
excellent as always thank you for your work.
Do the springs wear with age?
Yes they can.
How are these KYB struts holding up? I plan to change my mounts as well, they are loose and making a lot of noise.
No complaints from the owner, KYB makes pretty shocks and struts in my opinion.
@@BigDog50001 Thanks!
Hi what brand is that torque withy digital?
Snap-On.