ALL this is beautiful! The design, the function, the integration, the print modeling, the instructions, the video. All of this project is so awesome! I will be ready for assembly this evening. So happy you shared this with the world and that I found it. Thank you, thank you!
@@papsjundi When I made more I stopped printing the doors since I only print PLA. That way no magnets needed either. I've now had both eyes cataract surgery and raised eyelid surgery and see better now than at 62! Thanks for replying to my comment.😊
Hey wanted to stop back by I’ve printed this out for two bambu X1C And I have really enjoyed having it it’s made my time lapse is so much better I like being able to leave just the top on with the AMS and then open the side panels for better airflow I never close them because Oliver print release PLA and we know sometimes you know TPU but still love it favored it on mine I’ve shared with other people so thank you so much take care
Great piece of work, it was well organised and put together so printed great, I have it assembled and will replace the more basic one in a doay or so. Will update on Printables.
It's great. I printed out the four connections with slight bulges and polished them. I bought a mos tube and connected it to the cob light strip and an external 12V power supply to achieve panel and app control.
I'm so stupid, can you help me? I built my frame wrong so I have to make it again. In the original I used PLA. Is that not heat resistant enough? I saw you used PETG, so is that what I have to use?
PLA should be fine (many has used PLA and they work out ok), but yes PETG is somewhat better... If you follow the instruction it should be fine. The main frames are not the same length on x and y... but you can tell the rounded ones are the back...
Excellent work, you can see a lot of thought has gone into its design and lot's of little details. I'm personally not a fan of doors and prefer slats or sliders. Also appreciate the detailed instructions.
The magnet idea is nice. It might be easier and less components if you build the dovetail link into the rail so it's one part. I wonder if it's possible to do a multil-material print of the TPU on the door by using inter-locking features. The top gasket light shield is very cool.
Thank you! on earlier versions, I use latch on each side of the flaps, but it was so small... I was worried it will be damaged after several use... now the TPU and the Cover has 2 guides so lining them up is easy... and yes you need to glue them... Printing TPU with AMS is still risky... I wish they can... it would make life easier also... TPU is too squishy, it will work if it's pulled by the Extruder (like if we put it on the external spool) but AMS, they Push the filament to the hub... and that can cause trouble...
if you already invested in the printer.. my suggestion is to dive into it… don’t be afraid to make the mistakes… do other smaller projects, and when you are ready, instead of printing the whole project.. print them in parts… it will take longer, but it’s ok… it is the experiences you need to get under your belt… you will be more happy / satisfied with the result… 🙏 good luck!!
anyway to get a remix of this with the typical ams riser that holds the plates and 2 drawers? would love this remixed as i am looking forward to having the drawes but also love the idea of the vents
This is awesome but if the magnets stick out past the tpu gasket then the gasket isn’t sealing. The gaskets should smush b4 the magnets make contact. Thank you again for this. Ill definitely have to print this 🤘
Thank you... yes the holes are .2 mm deeper than the magnet's thickness (both on the flaps and the main body) to account for that... so when you install it, pay attention
Be sure to test fit on your printer FIRST. The legs are different lengths and can be assembled incorrectly. I had to reprint the entire thing and buy new LEDs and magnets.
on previous projects I use PLA with no issues, some people worried that PLA might deforms at 55 celcius... I think the internal chambers won't reach that temperature... specially when you open the flaps...
@@papsjundi thanks wanted to know before it fell into the inside of printer lol. Going to print a set out of ASA and I’ll report back. I like your tweaked version. I just got my led module can’t wait
I just printed one of these, and it's an excellent design. However, I ran into an issue with the LED not sticking. About an hour after installing it, the LED started falling from the frame. At first, I thought it might be because I didn't attach it well enough, but it came loose again shortly after I fixed it. I ended up using CA glue, and it's definitely not moving now. I was curious if anyone else has experienced the same issue?
Majority of my prints are using textured plate, I do my calibrations using Cool / Engineering Plate with the light turned down,.... just in case... after I save the presets, I go back to my textured plate and turn up the light.
@@josephtiberius7651I was also reluctant to try at first, but TPU is really a fun material! Just jump into it, make mistakes, clogged your nozzle, fix it (maybe a couple of times, it is part of the learning process).... and after you got it under your belt, you will never look back! Use TPU only from the rear spool, never AMS...
This is a great project! Thanks for this. It was a great thing to push me to try TPU and the parts all snap together well. It’s very well thought out. By the way, I may just not be looking in the right place, but I don’t see the link to the magnets. I’m ready to put it together and want to make sure I have the right ones. Could you add the link. Thanks again this thing is awesome!
Thank you for the kinds words! It is in the printables link / description... but here it is > amazon www.amazon.com/dp/B08R88J55R?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
It does reduce the chamber temperature somewhat... this is not an active airflow system, there is no fan to blow the hot air out, and suck the fresh air in.... the holes are just means for the hot air to rise up and escape from the chamber...
The built in fan doesn't cool the inside down, it's to cool the prints better for better adhesion. If these printers get too hot on the inside it can lead to clogs in the hot end. This riser helps to vent out the hot air. Now if you were to print ABS or PETG then you would leave the vents closed.
@@Amybnuy The Carbon filter is to help dissipate the odors from ABS, PETG and other exotic filaments. It doesn't really have too much of an impact on cooling the chamber.
@@danielwolman functionwise, it is to shield the bright LED, so when you look from above, it doesn't go into your eyes... secondly it is a softer materials for the top glass to sit on.... If you never tried TPU materials, please try... it is a fun materials :)
@@papsjundiI can't see in the top anyway as there isn't space based on where my printer is. The shelf above is only 4cm away! I've printed your compact version and it's wonderful. Thank you!
If anyone is printing this - don't glue immediately. Check if connected parts and tpu pads make top glass lay flat nicely, first. It didn't here and required some filing at connections. Anyway I like previous simplistic and elegant design (with low height) more... only if it had these nice push-in sturdy connections.
@@arekx ahh i see... when installing the PEGS?? Yes make sure all 4 sides lined up and flat... since to install the pegs, you have to flip pr main frames upside down... now... usually if the pegs and adjoining frames are flat... they're OK... I'd recommend to have enough (Flat) space to put them down so you can see if they are lined up.
@@papsjundi Frame was mounted on flat surface. But when installing the frame on the printer the middle points (where pegs are) were being pushed up a bit (which was later visible after laying tpu and glass - glass was rised incorrectly). The plastic frame was slightly too big. Anyway filing 0.5mm at touching edges (where pegs also are) fixed the problem. Unfortunately that new frame is too bloated and unfriendly (I prefer to remove glass for ventilation with one single hand movement instead of opening 8! separate small doors) and has ugly look, so I printed frame from your previous project and reused newly printed tpu parts (which are slightly wider but fit old frame without a problem). Now it looks and works great ! :)
Mate ... this is just a copy of "Think Design Make" by @thinkdesignmake. His riser does all that yours does yet you pay him ZERO credit for all the work he has done.... Be ORIGINAL or pay some credit to where you get your ideas from........DISAPPOINTED is all I can say
@ianwatson3030 I'm sorry "Mate" which one are you talking about? > ua-cam.com/video/rEhxf3UpV-Y/v-deo.html one? He posted 8 months ago, and I posted mine 10 months ago... How could I copy his, when I posted mine at least 2 months earlier? the design is totally different... maybe @thinkdesignmake can shed a light? Did I copy any of your work? I have my own Fusion360 files and all the iterations. I may be a nobody... but I never steal anyone's design and claim it my own... I made my design public, anyone are welcome to tinker with them.
@ianwatson3030 please open your eyes and look at both designs before accusing anyone.... they are totally different short of the outer shape (following bambu's shape) Mine has airvents with Magnetic Flaps... We both use LEDs, but many designs does to solve the weak Internal LED... I have made earlier designs also... on my printables www.printables.com/@dkarjadi_251732/models My first Riser Design was in January 2023, it was a Remix of another that I gave credit to www.printables.com/model/365027-bambulab-top-glass-riser-4-cob-led-remix-with-led-
TPU provides a softer seat for the top glass... try it, it is a FUN material to print! Once you get the hang of it... you will find other project that uses TPU! trust me!! :)
ALL this is beautiful! The design, the function, the integration, the print modeling, the instructions, the video. All of this project is so awesome! I will be ready for assembly this evening. So happy you shared this with the world and that I found it. Thank you, thank you!
@@delikid Thank you so much for the kind words! 🙏🙏🙏🙏
40k views and only 700ish likes? This is the best riser by far! Show the man some love!
thank you :)
Fantastic! Outstanding design, so well thought out. Thanks for your hard work!!
Very nice design, this is the best of the risers I have seen yet, the addition of the doors was a great idea!
Thank you for the kind words :)
This is fantastic!! At 77 it's harder to see things in the first place😊 This light makes the X1C way way easier to use. Thank YOU!
I'm 62 and yes absolutely bambu's led is simply too weak.
@@papsjundi When I made more I stopped printing the doors since I only print PLA. That way no magnets needed either.
I've now had both eyes cataract surgery and raised eyelid surgery and see better now than at 62! Thanks for replying to my comment.😊
Excellent idea & design. You sir are a genius!
Outstanding, excellent design and great work. Thank you for sharing this with us.
Nicest riser I've seen yet. I'm on my last PLA print of this then I just need to run the TPU.... Thanks for this....
Hey wanted to stop back by I’ve printed this out for two bambu X1C And I have really enjoyed having it it’s made my time lapse is so much better I like being able to leave just the top on with the AMS and then open the side panels for better airflow I never close them because Oliver print release PLA and we know sometimes you know TPU but still love it favored it on mine I’ve shared with other people so thank you so much take care
What a great idea and a very nice finished bit of kit!! Thanks so much for sharing w us!!!
Very well done! Thanks for sharing your creation.
Hey this is an amazing print and guide sir. Thanks. Just saw that it fits P1S in another spot.
Yes, Other user has installed it on P1S
@@papsjundi
Great piece of work, it was well organised and put together so printed great, I have it assembled and will replace the more basic one in a doay or so. Will update on Printables.
It's great. I printed out the four connections with slight bulges and polished them. I bought a mos tube and connected it to the cob light strip and an external 12V power supply to achieve panel and app control.
Awesone! Thank you! :)
Excellent design. Thanks for sharing.,
I'm so stupid, can you help me? I built my frame wrong so I have to make it again. In the original I used PLA. Is that not heat resistant enough? I saw you used PETG, so is that what I have to use?
PLA should be fine (many has used PLA and they work out ok), but yes PETG is somewhat better... If you follow the instruction it should be fine. The main frames are not the same length on x and y... but you can tell the rounded ones are the back...
Excellent work, you can see a lot of thought has gone into its design and lot's of little details. I'm personally not a fan of doors and prefer slats or sliders. Also appreciate the detailed instructions.
Thank you, designing slats/sliders I need to study and how to seal them
Are the small openings enough to lower chamber temperature for printing PLA without clogs ?
The magnet idea is nice. It might be easier and less components if you build the dovetail link into the rail so it's one part. I wonder if it's possible to do a multil-material print of the TPU on the door by using inter-locking features. The top gasket light shield is very cool.
Thank you! on earlier versions, I use latch on each side of the flaps, but it was so small... I was worried it will be damaged after several use... now the TPU and the Cover has 2 guides so lining them up is easy... and yes you need to glue them... Printing TPU with AMS is still risky... I wish they can... it would make life easier also... TPU is too squishy, it will work if it's pulled by the Extruder (like if we put it on the external spool) but AMS, they Push the filament to the hub... and that can cause trouble...
I'm not really experience in 3d I just got my X1C I would be willing to buy this upgrade, just the 3D printed parts
if you already invested in the printer.. my suggestion is to dive into it… don’t be afraid to make the mistakes… do other smaller projects, and when you are ready, instead of printing the whole project.. print them in parts… it will take longer, but it’s ok… it is the experiences you need to get under your belt… you will be more happy / satisfied with the result… 🙏 good luck!!
Great Video and thank you for all that you do.
Great job, i like your system. Thank ou for sharing
Very nicely done!
That's a pretty cool project!
Will this or the previous version work with a P1S?
yes they are the same size
anyway to get a remix of this with the typical ams riser that holds the plates and 2 drawers? would love this remixed as i am looking forward to having the drawes but also love the idea of the vents
This is awesome but if the magnets stick out past the tpu gasket then the gasket isn’t sealing. The gaskets should smush b4 the magnets make contact. Thank you again for this. Ill definitely have to print this 🤘
Thank you... yes the holes are .2 mm deeper than the magnet's thickness (both on the flaps and the main body) to account for that... so when you install it, pay attention
Will this accomodate a 10mm wide strip?
Have the same question
do you use PLA with the top closed, que vent parts opened and que door opened?
Be sure to test fit on your printer FIRST. The legs are different lengths and can be assembled incorrectly. I had to reprint the entire thing and buy new LEDs and magnets.
Great design!
can you print this in all pla or what are the options, i am new to printing and only use pla so far.
on previous projects I use PLA with no issues, some people worried that PLA might deforms at 55 celcius... I think the internal chambers won't reach that temperature... specially when you open the flaps...
My printer never gets over 36C when I print PLA. I have never looked to see if it would get hotter printing ABS or PETG.
Outstanding! Thanks for sharing.
will this support the weight of a AMS properly?
yes, many has done so
@@papsjundi thanks wanted to know before it fell into the inside of printer lol. Going to print a set out of ASA and I’ll report back. I like your tweaked version. I just got my led module can’t wait
@@jseaber how did your ASA print go. i couldn't keep mine from pulling up the build plate and warping at 45c chamber temp
@@GeneralBadLuck sorry it came out perfect tried one in asa, abs, and petg, I ended up fully printing the asa if I could attach photo I would
I just printed one of these, and it's an excellent design. However, I ran into an issue with the LED not sticking. About an hour after installing it, the LED started falling from the frame. At first, I thought it might be because I didn't attach it well enough, but it came loose again shortly after I fixed it. I ended up using CA glue, and it's definitely not moving now. I was curious if anyone else has experienced the same issue?
@@ryn1986 yes the sticker tapes on those LED really can’t stand the heat… in the video I also mention the possible needs to glue it
I take it the lidar scanner still work fine with this?
Majority of my prints are using textured plate, I do my calibrations using Cool / Engineering Plate with the light turned down,.... just in case... after I save the presets, I go back to my textured plate and turn up the light.
Is TPU required for this or is there an alternative?
it is not required per se, I chose it because it is soft, better for the top glass to sit on...
@@papsjundi thank you for the reply. I’m afraid to print TPU lol, I’ve never done it
@@josephtiberius7651I was also reluctant to try at first, but TPU is really a fun material! Just jump into it, make mistakes, clogged your nozzle, fix it (maybe a couple of times, it is part of the learning process).... and after you got it under your belt, you will never look back! Use TPU only from the rear spool, never AMS...
@@papsjundi
great job explaining!
This is a great project! Thanks for this. It was a great thing to push me to try TPU and the parts all snap together well. It’s very well thought out.
By the way, I may just not be looking in the right place, but I don’t see the link to the magnets.
I’m ready to put it together and want to make sure I have the right ones. Could you add the link. Thanks again this thing is awesome!
Thank you for the kinds words! It is in the printables link / description... but here it is > amazon www.amazon.com/dp/B08R88J55R?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
With all of the vents opened what are your chamber temps while printing something in PLA?
It does reduce the chamber temperature somewhat... this is not an active airflow system, there is no fan to blow the hot air out, and suck the fresh air in.... the holes are just means for the hot air to rise up and escape from the chamber...
Part of me wants a version with coils or something to automatically adjust it lol. Doesnt the built in fan cool the prints diwn? I don't have a bambu
The built in fan doesn't cool the inside down, it's to cool the prints better for better adhesion. If these printers get too hot on the inside it can lead to clogs in the hot end. This riser helps to vent out the hot air. Now if you were to print ABS or PETG then you would leave the vents closed.
@@InTheDogHouse3DPrinting oh I meant the carbon filter fan not the auxiliary
@@Amybnuy The Carbon filter is to help dissipate the odors from ABS, PETG and other exotic filaments. It doesn't really have too much of an impact on cooling the chamber.
Will this hold an AMS unit on top? This is an awesome design, well thought out.
Yes this would with no issue... many use it that way...
Brilliant!
Can i print in PLA? or does it have to be in PETG?
my previous one I print with PLA, no issue
@@papsjundi amazing. Thank you! And whilst you're here... Is the TPU essential or just a nice to have?
@@danielwolman functionwise, it is to shield the bright LED, so when you look from above, it doesn't go into your eyes... secondly it is a softer materials for the top glass to sit on.... If you never tried TPU materials, please try... it is a fun materials :)
@@danielwolman oh.. and for the flaps, since it is a soft materials, it can seals better than a rigid materials... kinda like o-rings / gaskets..
@@papsjundiI can't see in the top anyway as there isn't space based on where my printer is. The shelf above is only 4cm away! I've printed your compact version and it's wonderful. Thank you!
What size are the magnets?
the magnets used in this is 6x2mm
www.printables.com/model/584504-dk-riser-for-bambu-lab-x1p1
Pretty awesome.
best ams riser design
Thank you kindly!
THANKS SO MUCH!
Will this work with the P1s?
I was told yes it will
Approved :-) I just made one for my p1s. Awesome!! 🎉
@@ChristianSeitz awesome, post your make on my printable please :)
Mine came out perfect
If anyone is printing this - don't glue immediately. Check if connected parts and tpu pads make top glass lay flat nicely, first. It didn't here and required some filing at connections. Anyway I like previous simplistic and elegant design (with low height) more... only if it had these nice push-in sturdy connections.
Thank you! Are you talking about the Top Shield (4 parts that you lay the top glass on) ? they're not supposed to be glued... just lay them on top?
@@papsjundi About plastic parts with joins.
@@arekx ahh i see... when installing the PEGS?? Yes make sure all 4 sides lined up and flat... since to install the pegs, you have to flip pr main frames upside down... now... usually if the pegs and adjoining frames are flat... they're OK... I'd recommend to have enough (Flat) space to put them down so you can see if they are lined up.
@@papsjundi Frame was mounted on flat surface. But when installing the frame on the printer the middle points (where pegs are) were being pushed up a bit (which was later visible after laying tpu and glass - glass was rised incorrectly). The plastic frame was slightly too big. Anyway filing 0.5mm at touching edges (where pegs also are) fixed the problem. Unfortunately that new frame is too bloated and unfriendly (I prefer to remove glass for ventilation with one single hand movement instead of opening 8! separate small doors) and has ugly look, so I printed frame from your previous project and reused newly printed tpu parts (which are slightly wider but fit old frame without a problem). Now it looks and works great ! :)
@@arekx yeah if you don't need the vents... the previous design is more suitable... uses less materials and much quicker too print
Not bad m8 not bad.......
WHAT SIZE OR WIDTH STRIP LED DOES THUS FIT. PLEASE ATTACH LINK
All you have to do is go to the description of this video, and there's a link to the printable... and it describe everything including the LED etc...
'Promo sm' 😜
Mate ... this is just a copy of "Think Design Make" by @thinkdesignmake. His riser does all that yours does yet you pay him ZERO credit for all the work he has done.... Be ORIGINAL or pay some credit to where you get your ideas from........DISAPPOINTED is all I can say
@ianwatson3030 I'm sorry "Mate" which one are you talking about? > ua-cam.com/video/rEhxf3UpV-Y/v-deo.html one? He posted 8 months ago, and I posted mine 10 months ago... How could I copy his, when I posted mine at least 2 months earlier? the design is totally different... maybe @thinkdesignmake can shed a light? Did I copy any of your work? I have my own Fusion360 files and all the iterations. I may be a nobody... but I never steal anyone's design and claim it my own... I made my design public, anyone are welcome to tinker with them.
@ianwatson3030 please open your eyes and look at both designs before accusing anyone.... they are totally different short of the outer shape (following bambu's shape) Mine has airvents with Magnetic Flaps... We both use LEDs, but many designs does to solve the weak Internal LED... I have made earlier designs also... on my printables www.printables.com/@dkarjadi_251732/models My first Riser Design was in January 2023, it was a Remix of another that I gave credit to
www.printables.com/model/365027-bambulab-top-glass-riser-4-cob-led-remix-with-led-
Hi, what are the vents for ? and is it working with the P1P ?
Does this also work on the P1S?
yes
do I need to print in TPU or can I do the whole thing in PLA?
TPU provides a softer seat for the top glass... try it, it is a FUN material to print! Once you get the hang of it... you will find other project that uses TPU! trust me!! :)