It depends on where you leave and weather. It is winter now and the room I am printing is rather cold. The breeze and drafts cause warping and bed adhesion problems. I have to keep everything closed. Only during long prints (10 hrs+) I keep the top lid slightly open. Though the summer times are a different story. Even with open printers i sometimes suffer. Thus in addition to open top and door i need to provide extra cooling. BL recommendations might not be applicable for everyone. Each personal condition differs and users need to use their own common sense and experience.
It can often be absolutely fine. If you live in warmer climates, you'll experience more issues with heat build up. Also if you're printing something with a lot of bridges or overhangs, you'll likely get much better results printing with the door open or the lid removed to ensure the PLA cools and solidifies as quick as possible, preventing you from getting such drooping in the unsuported areas .
Very nice summary. And thank you for the links. But I saw only a link for the one kind of riser, even though you mentioned others. Can you please put those others in the links too? What filament do you print the riser with?
I'm not an expert, but does it really wear a PTFE tube out, if it's rubbing with barely any pressure against a glass surface? I didn't experience anything like that with my P1S, and it has a few thousand hours on it.
I put one of those minimal risers under the glass, apart for stopping the Bowden from scraping on the glass it allowed a better angle for the Bowden going into the toolhead, have you seen how the scraping Bowden tube affects printers with acrylic tops? the Creality and QIDI printers lids get very scratched up, I didn't see any damage to my glass top but the amount of errors decreased significantly and when the FW update came I no longer got any errors when filament was being loaded and unloaded. I am in two minds whether to print one of these type of riser, I don't usually open the top or the door when printing PLA and I don't have any issues, the chamber temperature never gets above 36°C and if it did I could set the chamber fan to activate and keep the temperature low enough, the noise difference is massive also with the printer closed up.
@@MotFPSlol yeah PTFE is by its very nature extremely slippery and low drag. People mess with so much crap they don’t need to. Poop bucket yes, Desiccant holder for AMS yeah…loads of other nonsense meh.
NO AMS here, but I still like my riser (very similar to yours). It keeps my small tools and spare parts handy and together, provides safe storage for the top glass and build plates, moves the external spool mount to the side for easy access, and still lets me store an airtight filament bin on top. It did make a strip of LED lighting a necessity instead of a nice-to-have, but I was going to add that anyway. Wiring to my LED strip does have inline M&F connectors to ease maintenance, but I seldom need to remove the riser.
I absolutely agree about the inline connectors for the lighting fitted in the riser, makes the whole process so much easier if you do ever need to remove it.
I was also looking around for a riser quite some time now. And that one displayed in the video also got my attention for quite some while. But I feel it's besides storing a bit of tools, which you could also easily store at another place, unpractical. A lot of errors or maintenance require or make it much more handy when reaching in from the top. So when this occurs you still need to take everything off, including the riser. At least with a lot of AMS-risers, you have little to no space to reach into the printer from the top because they might be verry low due to their drawers or other things. So a AMS riser surely could be verry handy, but not many are designed verry practically.
It's true thst most risers don't allow you to access the printer from the top whilst fitted, but as I explain, the main point of a riser (especially one like this with a solid top thst blocks access) is because you're storing your AMS on top. If that's the case, even if you didn't have a riser, you'd still need to remove the AMS to do any top maintenance, so lifting the riser off instead would be absolutely no difference. If anything it helps as it provides me more access from the top without needing to remove the AMS, reducing the chance I need to lift anything off. In the 8 months I've had this one fitted, I've removed it on 3 occasions, and two of those were for recording videos. So if you're storing a AMS on top, using a riser doesn't make top access any harder and in some cases makes if easier. If you're not storing an AMS on top, as you say, there's other riser designs tbst give you complete top access and ifs no different to just removing the glass plate like normal.
@@3DRevolution Well I need to put the AMS on top because of the space I have. So a riser might be a good solution here, since you're still able to get the glass plate open or even of. But needing to get everything of is the same effort as printing without. But fortunately there're a few designs out that tilt the AMS slightly over the back of the P1/X1 leaving more room in between. Or AMS risers that seem to be a bit higher and not having drawers. Some designs actually might give enough space removing the plate and having some decent room on the top to reach in and doing some light maintenance or repair works on toolhead, tubing, rails etc. Also for cleaning and lubing. Without the need of taking everything off all the time. Which might be a big advantage for people who have their P1/X1 just on a little table.
I have always set my AMS to the side - as i was worried that the additional weight on the top of the printer would increase the shaking of the printer as the weight would increase force movement. The printer already shakes a good deal from the rapid movements - is there anything to that?
@@masterEEE I used Hatchbox PLA for my riser...then warped the riser while printing with a high chamber temp...Tullomer likes 60+C chamber temps, more than enough to make PLA sag.
Thanks for this, I am stuck though. I tried your remix of the gasket however the LED strips I have are 8.5mm and they are not fitting in there, is there any way you can remix it further for the 8.5mm LED strips? I would really appreciate it.
I’m one of the weirdos that can leave their glass on 24/7, and never open the door. I just keep the chamber below 40C, if it ever starts to creep towards there I just ramp the chamber fan.
Same. But I get away with it because my printer is in a basement that is almost always cool. Oh Canada! But I would imagine some people in hotter climates might have battles that we don’t
You absolutely could integrate a HEPA filter into a riser, but you'd really want to design a new riser around it. You'd also want to ensure it has fans that are powerful enough to ensure a decent rate of flow, whilst pushing through the filter, that would still help keep temperatures down.
Even having an AMS on is silly because it raises the centre of gravity. Input shaping just has to work harder. I printed a hex shelf with plate holders for mine and it goes on the wall behind my X1 and a little above. For anyone doing AMS on top or add a riser, remember to recalibrate.
I’ve run AMS, with risers, on top of X1Cs for thousands of hours of printing, and have never needed to recalibrate unless I’ve made significant modifications such as replacing the nozzle etc. Yes you may want to do a single recalibration after first putting an AMS and/or riser on top, but other than that, it is just part of the system and nothing to worry about.
This particular one has one slot for build plates and one slot for the glas lid. However, the one slot for build plates is big enough to fit 2 or 3 ontop of one another, and there are modified versions of this riser that do have multiple seperate slots for build plates.
I dont usually remove the top or open the door when printing PLA and I have had no issues with that, no warping no heatcreep, I haven't seen the chamber temperature go above 36°C I have thought about printing one of these risers but it is just one more thing to remove when doing the maintenance as I prefer to have access from the top. I have a minimal riser under the glass to give a better angle for the Bowden tube going into the toolhead and to stop the Bowden tube scraping along the glass top.
I’m so confused, my house is 68F. I print PLA Basic for 12 hours, for instance the AMS desiccant holders and a poop bucket. The latter is probably 4 by 4” at the base and the print came out amazing. Didn’t open anything at all…
68F isn’s especially hot so for general print’s you’ll probably be fine. However, even if you don’t live in a hotter climate, allowing the ambient temperature inside the printer to rise by having the door closed and lid on will mean the PLA doesn’t cool down as quickly after being extruded. For a lot of prints that won’t matter, but if you’re printing something with a lot of bridging or overhangs (especially if it’s a part where precision is important), then they are going to droop much further as they will remain mailable for longer before they cool. You may argue that your desiccant holders have a lot of bridges and overhangs for the holes, but i can’t guarantee you the top part of them will be lower than if they had been printed in cooler ambient temperatures. That won’t matter for that model, but if you were printing something with a hole that had been designed for something else to slide into, or had been designed to perfectly fit onto something, it can be the difference between a successful print and one that is largely useless.
@ cool man appreciate the detailed reply. True nothing I printed needed to interface outside of the slide on covers for the desiccant thing. The poop bucket had a large overhang but it wasn’t particularly dimensionally critical and I supported the crap out of it because it was at the end of a tall print, it was basically a bridge to a hook that goes inside the chute to hold it without magnets or screws. Hopefully just opening the door will be adequate. Maybe I’ll print a bright colored flag that can be put over the edge of the glass as a warning when it’s open. I gotta say I wanted a 3D printer as a tool, not another hobby. I’ve had other printers, Creality Ender 3, Prusia MK3S+ etc. I can’t recommend the X1C enuf this is exactly what I wanted a printer to be. Reminds me of trying to buy a 1300 laser cutter from China and all the pain it gave me it was 90% right but the 10% wrong made it junk and too much tinkering. Sold it and spent $5000 on a Thunder Nova 35 and now it’s a tool, turn on…does work, no bullshit.
@@3DRevolution scary! Really sorry to hear that… I once almost died in Ireland (that was once UK), so maybe that’s why I like your videos! 😅 (I don’t think so, I think it’s because you’re damn good at making videos!)
Well glad you survived Ireland too. Haha thanks, it was three years ago now, and I guess the silver lining is, if it hadn't have happened, I wouldn't be trying to make a real go of my channel right now, so swings and roundabouts. Haha thanks, it's all a process and my videos will only get better (...hopefully). I do have some big plans for the coming months.
Hi Ben, just finished printing out your riser on Maker World, very happy with the results, and notice you sell a premade lighting strip with a USB connection, Couldn't see where to ask the question there, so popped onto here, only a week into owning my P1S. Is there a USB port on the back of the printer, not noticed one, or do you use and external USB supply?
Hi Steve, I believe you may think I'm someone else, my name is Josh of 3D Revolution, I'm not Ben. I also didn't design or supply the AMS riser I feature in this video, I'm just using it as an example to show what risers are and what they are used for. I also don't sell a premade lighting strip. I have designed a gasket for the AMS Riser in this video (which I've linked to the designs for so you can download for free and print yourself), and that can work with any LED strips (the gasket is available in 3 sizes for 3 different LED strip widths). Regarding power, there is no USB ports on the X1C (which I feature in this video) and I feed the cable out the back and have it plugged into a mains USB power brick. P1P and P1S do feature a USB port which is located on the inside of the top bar at the front. This can output 5v so if you intend to power your LED strips with this, make sure you get 5V ones.
@@3DRevolution I’m so sorry I mixed you up with the person you referred to in your video. I do have a P1S so will go down the USB route for a lighting strip. I really enjoy your channel and your delivery of the information is right at my level 😃
This was all in PLA. I believe there's a chance I may have used Bambu Tough PLA for the grey/silver bit because I already had that and the colour matched well but honestly, regular PLA will be more than fine.
Just a heads up After solving my TPU print issues, I finally be able to assemble AMS riser V2. As soon as put it on its place my P1S started to sing. sound is similar to whistle or aliens computer chimes like the one in sci-fi movies. 🤣🤣🤣 I guess Riser acts as an acoustic enhancer and made the volume of this sound audible. I had an issue printing with AMS riser V2. As the center of gravity moves farther up, printer and AMS started to shake wildly when it prints fast. Due to this shaking or change in resonance several thin and tall prints toppled, failed misprinted etc. I auto calibrated printer and those failed prints printed without an issue.
Hmm thats odd, sorry to hear that. I’ve printed thousands of hours over more than a year using a riser on X1Cs and haven’t experienced print issues, excessive shaking, or additional noise. I wonder what’s happened with yours causing you this issue
That's very odd. PLA is the staple printing material and is printed around the world on all sorts of 3D printers, most of which don't even have an enclosure, with no warping. If you were opening the doors and removing the lid half way through a print that 'could' have an impact as it would suddenly change the printing environment which will affect print performance, so you could end up with a before /after quality line on your print. Alternatively, if your printer is in a particularly drafty area blowing air of different temperatures around, I guess that could have an impact. But either way, you shouldn't be getting warping with PLA purely due to not printing in an enclosure.
I think we are talking in the context of when you do need a riser or to remove the lid according to the wiki/bed temp. What plate and bed temp are using to print PLA? Also when a company gives recommendations, they are trying to minimize customers from having issues. In some circumstances some people may not have issues, but other people will. And they want err on the side of caution.
I'm not aware of anyone that does, but it may also slightly defeat the point. The only use case for these are for people who have a 3D printer, and as it's something you'd want to print early on after getting your printer, printing your own can be a great initial project to help you get used to printing with the printer. If you'd like to help your son with one of these, I'd suggest buying him 4x 1kg spoools of filament that he can use to print this himself (and leave him with some leftover filament for printing other accessories)
Yes, it could do, but... If the enclosure is closed, any normal fan would just circulate the air. If you had an extractor fsn, unless you fitted it at the top (which isn't possible without a riser or further mods because the top is just the removable glass plate) , it's not going to be sucking the hot air that's risen to the top, and also would rely on equal gaps for ventilation for cooler air to be sucked in, which other than the purge chute also doesn't exist natively.
Haha thanks. It’s available on my store: 3drevolutionstore.com/products/they-see-me-rolling-unisex-organic-cotton-t-shirt Just a note, channel members get a discount on my store 😉
I don't like 4+kg of weight being on top of my printer and adding a riser is just increasing the angular momentum of that weight so I'm moving mine to the desktop with an AMS stand instead.
This is the exact information I needed. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
I've been printing with pla fully closed and it's never been a problem for me
I had a message pop up on my touchscreen the other day to have the door open with using pla for multi colored prints
It depends on where you leave and weather. It is winter now and the room I am printing is rather cold. The breeze and drafts cause warping and bed adhesion problems. I have to keep everything closed. Only during long prints (10 hrs+) I keep the top lid slightly open. Though the summer times are a different story. Even with open printers i sometimes suffer. Thus in addition to open top and door i need to provide extra cooling. BL recommendations might not be applicable for everyone. Each personal condition differs and users need to use their own common sense and experience.
It can often be absolutely fine. If you live in warmer climates, you'll experience more issues with heat build up.
Also if you're printing something with a lot of bridges or overhangs, you'll likely get much better results printing with the door open or the lid removed to ensure the PLA cools and solidifies as quick as possible, preventing you from getting such drooping in the unsuported areas .
I’m a newbie.
Great video @3DRevolution!
Thank you 🙏🏻 for taking your time to make this.
You're most welcome, glad to have helped! Happy printing!
Good clear concise explanation. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Clear and concise!
thats great, i got a bambulab combi with ams and riser and didnt actually realize this :D
Very nice summary. And thank you for the links. But I saw only a link for the one kind of riser, even though you mentioned others. Can you please put those others in the links too? What filament do you print the riser with?
I'm not an expert, but does it really wear a PTFE tube out, if it's rubbing with barely any pressure against a glass surface? I didn't experience anything like that with my P1S, and it has a few thousand hours on it.
I put one of those minimal risers under the glass, apart for stopping the Bowden from scraping on the glass it allowed a better angle for the Bowden going into the toolhead, have you seen how the scraping Bowden tube affects printers with acrylic tops? the Creality and QIDI printers lids get very scratched up, I didn't see any damage to my glass top but the amount of errors decreased significantly and when the FW update came I no longer got any errors when filament was being loaded and unloaded.
I am in two minds whether to print one of these type of riser, I don't usually open the top or the door when printing PLA and I don't have any issues, the chamber temperature never gets above 36°C and if it did I could set the chamber fan to activate and keep the temperature low enough, the noise difference is massive also with the printer closed up.
The channel literally made that claim up with zero evidence.
@@MotFPSlol yeah PTFE is by its very nature extremely slippery and low drag. People mess with so much crap they don’t need to. Poop bucket yes, Desiccant holder for AMS yeah…loads of other nonsense meh.
NO AMS here, but I still like my riser (very similar to yours). It keeps my small tools and spare parts handy and together, provides safe storage for the top glass and build plates, moves the external spool mount to the side for easy access, and still lets me store an airtight filament bin on top. It did make a strip of LED lighting a necessity instead of a nice-to-have, but I was going to add that anyway. Wiring to my LED strip does have inline M&F connectors to ease maintenance, but I seldom need to remove the riser.
I absolutely agree about the inline connectors for the lighting fitted in the riser, makes the whole process so much easier if you do ever need to remove it.
5:49 The riser shown uses 2.5-3 kg of filament.
I was also looking around for a riser quite some time now. And that one displayed in the video also got my attention for quite some while.
But I feel it's besides storing a bit of tools, which you could also easily store at another place, unpractical.
A lot of errors or maintenance require or make it much more handy when reaching in from the top. So when this occurs you still need to take everything off, including the riser. At least with a lot of AMS-risers, you have little to no space to reach into the printer from the top because they might be verry low due to their drawers or other things.
So a AMS riser surely could be verry handy, but not many are designed verry practically.
It's true thst most risers don't allow you to access the printer from the top whilst fitted, but as I explain, the main point of a riser (especially one like this with a solid top thst blocks access) is because you're storing your AMS on top. If that's the case, even if you didn't have a riser, you'd still need to remove the AMS to do any top maintenance, so lifting the riser off instead would be absolutely no difference. If anything it helps as it provides me more access from the top without needing to remove the AMS, reducing the chance I need to lift anything off.
In the 8 months I've had this one fitted, I've removed it on 3 occasions, and two of those were for recording videos.
So if you're storing a AMS on top, using a riser doesn't make top access any harder and in some cases makes if easier. If you're not storing an AMS on top, as you say, there's other riser designs tbst give you complete top access and ifs no different to just removing the glass plate like normal.
@@3DRevolution Well I need to put the AMS on top because of the space I have. So a riser might be a good solution here, since you're still able to get the glass plate open or even of.
But needing to get everything of is the same effort as printing without.
But fortunately there're a few designs out that tilt the AMS slightly over the back of the P1/X1 leaving more room in between. Or AMS risers that seem to be a bit higher and not having drawers.
Some designs actually might give enough space removing the plate and having some decent room on the top to reach in and doing some light maintenance or repair works on toolhead, tubing, rails etc. Also for cleaning and lubing.
Without the need of taking everything off all the time. Which might be a big advantage for people who have their P1/X1 just on a little table.
I have always set my AMS to the side - as i was worried that the additional weight on the top of the printer would increase the shaking of the printer as the weight would increase force movement. The printer already shakes a good deal from the rapid movements - is there anything to that?
Extra weight will actually help reduce movement because of Newton's 1st Law. Basically the more it weight, the more energy it takes to move it.
yeah as the other guy said, you have that backwards. you want more weight. it's like you holding the printer down to stop the shaking.
what material is best to print the riser with? would it be okay to print it in basic bambu PLA?
Second this, I’d like to know as well
@@masterEEE I used Hatchbox PLA for my riser...then warped the riser while printing with a high chamber temp...Tullomer likes 60+C chamber temps, more than enough to make PLA sag.
Thanks for this, I am stuck though. I tried your remix of the gasket however the LED strips I have are 8.5mm and they are not fitting in there, is there any way you can remix it further for the 8.5mm LED strips? I would really appreciate it.
I’m one of the weirdos that can leave their glass on 24/7, and never open the door. I just keep the chamber below 40C, if it ever starts to creep towards there I just ramp the chamber fan.
Same here! my chamber never gets above 36°C with it closed up and I get no print issues either.
Same
Same. But I get away with it because my printer is in a basement that is almost always cool. Oh Canada!
But I would imagine some people in hotter climates might have battles that we don’t
I did not realise I am a weirdo too!
You absolutely don't need a riser, all glass can absolutely stay close 100% of the time .
Is there a way to include a hepa filter into a riser or something or would that trap too much heat? fan system too or would that cause issues?
You absolutely could integrate a HEPA filter into a riser, but you'd really want to design a new riser around it.
You'd also want to ensure it has fans that are powerful enough to ensure a decent rate of flow, whilst pushing through the filter, that would still help keep temperatures down.
Great video. Subscribing
Awesome, thank you!
Even having an AMS on is silly because it raises the centre of gravity. Input shaping just has to work harder.
I printed a hex shelf with plate holders for mine and it goes on the wall behind my X1 and a little above.
For anyone doing AMS on top or add a riser, remember to recalibrate.
recalibrate every time ? My new P1S is on the way, I'm learning 😅
I’ve run AMS, with risers, on top of X1Cs for thousands of hours of printing, and have never needed to recalibrate unless I’ve made significant modifications such as replacing the nozzle etc.
Yes you may want to do a single recalibration after first putting an AMS and/or riser on top, but other than that, it is just part of the system and nothing to worry about.
can you fit 2 buuild plates in that slot?
Has a spot for 2 build plates
This particular one has one slot for build plates and one slot for the glas lid. However, the one slot for build plates is big enough to fit 2 or 3 ontop of one another, and there are modified versions of this riser that do have multiple seperate slots for build plates.
I dont usually remove the top or open the door when printing PLA and I have had no issues with that, no warping no heatcreep, I haven't seen the chamber temperature go above 36°C
I have thought about printing one of these risers but it is just one more thing to remove when doing the maintenance as I prefer to have access from the top.
I have a minimal riser under the glass to give a better angle for the Bowden tube going into the toolhead and to stop the Bowden tube scraping along the glass top.
I’m so confused, my house is 68F. I print PLA Basic for 12 hours, for instance the AMS desiccant holders and a poop bucket. The latter is probably 4 by 4” at the base and the print came out amazing. Didn’t open anything at all…
68F isn’s especially hot so for general print’s you’ll probably be fine.
However, even if you don’t live in a hotter climate, allowing the ambient temperature inside the printer to rise by having the door closed and lid on will mean the PLA doesn’t cool down as quickly after being extruded. For a lot of prints that won’t matter, but if you’re printing something with a lot of bridging or overhangs (especially if it’s a part where precision is important), then they are going to droop much further as they will remain mailable for longer before they cool.
You may argue that your desiccant holders have a lot of bridges and overhangs for the holes, but i can’t guarantee you the top part of them will be lower than if they had been printed in cooler ambient temperatures. That won’t matter for that model, but if you were printing something with a hole that had been designed for something else to slide into, or had been designed to perfectly fit onto something, it can be the difference between a successful print and one that is largely useless.
@ cool man appreciate the detailed reply. True nothing I printed needed to interface outside of the slide on covers for the desiccant thing. The poop bucket had a large overhang but it wasn’t particularly dimensionally critical and I supported the crap out of it because it was at the end of a tall print, it was basically a bridge to a hook that goes inside the chute to hold it without magnets or screws.
Hopefully just opening the door will be adequate. Maybe I’ll print a bright colored flag that can be put over the edge of the glass as a warning when it’s open.
I gotta say I wanted a 3D printer as a tool, not another hobby. I’ve had other printers, Creality Ender 3, Prusia MK3S+ etc. I can’t recommend the X1C enuf this is exactly what I wanted a printer to be. Reminds me of trying to buy a 1300 laser cutter from China and all the pain it gave me it was 90% right but the 10% wrong made it junk and too much tinkering. Sold it and spent $5000 on a Thunder Nova 35 and now it’s a tool, turn on…does work, no bullshit.
Very nice Italian impression at 2:50! 😂
😂
To be fair, I almost died in Italy so when recusitated, I was reborn with a bit of Italian in me.
@@3DRevolution scary! Really sorry to hear that… I once almost died in Ireland (that was once UK), so maybe that’s why I like your videos! 😅 (I don’t think so, I think it’s because you’re damn good at making videos!)
Well glad you survived Ireland too.
Haha thanks, it was three years ago now, and I guess the silver lining is, if it hadn't have happened, I wouldn't be trying to make a real go of my channel right now, so swings and roundabouts. Haha thanks, it's all a process and my videos will only get better (...hopefully). I do have some big plans for the coming months.
Hi Ben, just finished printing out your riser on Maker World, very happy with the results, and notice you sell a premade lighting strip with a USB connection, Couldn't see where to ask the question there, so popped onto here, only a week into owning my P1S. Is there a USB port on the back of the printer, not noticed one, or do you use and external USB supply?
Hi Steve, I believe you may think I'm someone else, my name is Josh of 3D Revolution, I'm not Ben.
I also didn't design or supply the AMS riser I feature in this video, I'm just using it as an example to show what risers are and what they are used for.
I also don't sell a premade lighting strip. I have designed a gasket for the AMS Riser in this video (which I've linked to the designs for so you can download for free and print yourself), and that can work with any LED strips (the gasket is available in 3 sizes for 3 different LED strip widths).
Regarding power, there is no USB ports on the X1C (which I feature in this video) and I feed the cable out the back and have it plugged into a mains USB power brick.
P1P and P1S do feature a USB port which is located on the inside of the top bar at the front. This can output 5v so if you intend to power your LED strips with this, make sure you get 5V ones.
@@3DRevolution I’m so sorry I mixed you up with the person you referred to in your video. I do have a P1S so will go down the USB route for a lighting strip. I really enjoy your channel and your delivery of the information is right at my level 😃
What did you print this in.
This was all in PLA.
I believe there's a chance I may have used Bambu Tough PLA for the grey/silver bit because I already had that and the colour matched well but honestly, regular PLA will be more than fine.
Just a heads up
After solving my TPU print issues, I finally be able to assemble AMS riser V2. As soon as put it on its place my P1S started to sing. sound is similar to whistle or aliens computer chimes like the one in sci-fi movies. 🤣🤣🤣 I guess Riser acts as an acoustic enhancer and made the volume of this sound audible.
I had an issue printing with AMS riser V2. As the center of gravity moves farther up, printer and AMS started to shake wildly when it prints fast. Due to this shaking or change in resonance several thin and tall prints toppled, failed misprinted etc. I auto calibrated printer and those failed prints printed without an issue.
Hmm thats odd, sorry to hear that. I’ve printed thousands of hours over more than a year using a riser on X1Cs and haven’t experienced print issues, excessive shaking, or additional noise.
I wonder what’s happened with yours causing you this issue
I get warping if I leave the door open or take the top glass off, even with PLA
That's very odd. PLA is the staple printing material and is printed around the world on all sorts of 3D printers, most of which don't even have an enclosure, with no warping.
If you were opening the doors and removing the lid half way through a print that 'could' have an impact as it would suddenly change the printing environment which will affect print performance, so you could end up with a before /after quality line on your print.
Alternatively, if your printer is in a particularly drafty area blowing air of different temperatures around, I guess that could have an impact.
But either way, you shouldn't be getting warping with PLA purely due to not printing in an enclosure.
Ceiling fan on without an enclosure?
Part cooling is not the reason. It's to prevent heat creep and softening of the filament at the extruder for lower glass transiton temp materials.
Absolutely, that too. I did mean to cover that in more depth in this video but I must have missed it, thanks for highlighting.
I keep my X1 Carbon closed when printing PLA, the temperature never gets above 36°C and I don't have any issues at all.
I think we are talking in the context of when you do need a riser or to remove the lid according to the wiki/bed temp. What plate and bed temp are using to print PLA? Also when a company gives recommendations, they are trying to minimize customers from having issues. In some circumstances some people may not have issues, but other people will. And they want err on the side of caution.
Does anyone make and sell these completed? Would like to get one for my son. Thanks
I'm not aware of anyone that does, but it may also slightly defeat the point.
The only use case for these are for people who have a 3D printer, and as it's something you'd want to print early on after getting your printer, printing your own can be a great initial project to help you get used to printing with the printer.
If you'd like to help your son with one of these, I'd suggest buying him 4x 1kg spoools of filament that he can use to print this himself (and leave him with some leftover filament for printing other accessories)
Can you use an exhaust fan / fume extractor to achieve the same thing?
Yes, it could do, but...
If the enclosure is closed, any normal fan would just circulate the air. If you had an extractor fsn, unless you fitted it at the top (which isn't possible without a riser or further mods because the top is just the removable glass plate) , it's not going to be sucking the hot air that's risen to the top, and also would rely on equal gaps for ventilation for cooler air to be sucked in, which other than the purge chute also doesn't exist natively.
that is a great shirt lol
Haha thanks. It’s available on my store: 3drevolutionstore.com/products/they-see-me-rolling-unisex-organic-cotton-t-shirt
Just a note, channel members get a discount on my store 😉
Do they have one with drawers and can hold 2 AMS units side by side
🤙
Nice TARDIS
Thanks :)
It's part of my Doctor Who collection, they're all available to download here: makerworld.com/en/collections/510902
I don't like 4+kg of weight being on top of my printer and adding a riser is just increasing the angular momentum of that weight so I'm moving mine to the desktop with an AMS stand instead.