I dont usually remove the top or open the door when printing PLA and I have had no issues with that, no warping no heatcreep, I haven't seen the chamber temperature go above 36°C I have thought about printing one of these risers but it is just one more thing to remove when doing the maintenance as I prefer to have access from the top. I have a minimal riser under the glass to give a better angle for the Bowden tube going into the toolhead and to stop the Bowden tube scraping along the glass top.
NO AMS here, but I still like my riser (very similar to yours). It keeps my small tools and spare parts handy and together, provides safe storage for the top glass and build plates, moves the external spool mount to the side for easy access, and still lets me store an airtight filament bin on top. It did make a strip of LED lighting a necessity instead of a nice-to-have, but I was going to add that anyway. Wiring to my LED strip does have inline M&F connectors to ease maintenance, but I seldom need to remove the riser.
I absolutely agree about the inline connectors for the lighting fitted in the riser, makes the whole process so much easier if you do ever need to remove it.
I was also looking around for a riser quite some time now. And that one displayed in the video also got my attention for quite some while. But I feel it's besides storing a bit of tools, which you could also easily store at another place, unpractical. A lot of errors or maintenance require or make it much more handy when reaching in from the top. So when this occurs you still need to take everything off, including the riser. At least with a lot of AMS-risers, you have little to no space to reach into the printer from the top because they might be verry low due to their drawers or other things. So a AMS riser surely could be verry handy, but not many are designed verry practically.
It's true thst most risers don't allow you to access the printer from the top whilst fitted, but as I explain, the main point of a riser (especially one like this with a solid top thst blocks access) is because you're storing your AMS on top. If that's the case, even if you didn't have a riser, you'd still need to remove the AMS to do any top maintenance, so lifting the riser off instead would be absolutely no difference. If anything it helps as it provides me more access from the top without needing to remove the AMS, reducing the chance I need to lift anything off. In the 8 months I've had this one fitted, I've removed it on 3 occasions, and two of those were for recording videos. So if you're storing a AMS on top, using a riser doesn't make top access any harder and in some cases makes if easier. If you're not storing an AMS on top, as you say, there's other riser designs tbst give you complete top access and ifs no different to just removing the glass plate like normal.
@@3DRevolution Well I need to put the AMS on top because of the space I have. So a riser might be a good solution here, since you're still able to get the glass plate open or even of. But needing to get everything of is the same effort as printing without. But fortunately there're a few designs out that tilt the AMS slightly over the back of the P1/X1 leaving more room in between. Or AMS risers that seem to be a bit higher and not having drawers. Some designs actually might give enough space removing the plate and having some decent room on the top to reach in and doing some light maintenance or repair works on toolhead, tubing, rails etc. Also for cleaning and lubing. Without the need of taking everything off all the time. Which might be a big advantage for people who have their P1/X1 just on a little table.
I'm not an expert, but does it really wear a PTFE tube out, if it's rubbing with barely any pressure against a glass surface? I didn't experience anything like that with my P1S, and it has a few thousand hours on it.
I put one of those minimal risers under the glass, apart for stopping the Bowden from scraping on the glass it allowed a better angle for the Bowden going into the toolhead, have you seen how the scraping Bowden tube affects printers with acrylic tops? the Creality and QIDI printers lids get very scratched up, I didn't see any damage to my glass top but the amount of errors decreased significantly and when the FW update came I no longer got any errors when filament was being loaded and unloaded. I am in two minds whether to print one of these type of riser, I don't usually open the top or the door when printing PLA and I don't have any issues, the chamber temperature never gets above 36°C and if it did I could set the chamber fan to activate and keep the temperature low enough, the noise difference is massive also with the printer closed up.
Hi Ben, just finished printing out your riser on Maker World, very happy with the results, and notice you sell a premade lighting strip with a USB connection, Couldn't see where to ask the question there, so popped onto here, only a week into owning my P1S. Is there a USB port on the back of the printer, not noticed one, or do you use and external USB supply?
Hi Steve, I believe you may think I'm someone else, my name is Josh of 3D Revolution, I'm not Ben. I also didn't design or supply the AMS riser I feature in this video, I'm just using it as an example to show what risers are and what they are used for. I also don't sell a premade lighting strip. I have designed a gasket for the AMS Riser in this video (which I've linked to the designs for so you can download for free and print yourself), and that can work with any LED strips (the gasket is available in 3 sizes for 3 different LED strip widths). Regarding power, there is no USB ports on the X1C (which I feature in this video) and I feed the cable out the back and have it plugged into a mains USB power brick. P1P and P1S do feature a USB port which is located on the inside of the top bar at the front. This can output 5v so if you intend to power your LED strips with this, make sure you get 5V ones.
@@3DRevolution I’m so sorry I mixed you up with the person you referred to in your video. I do have a P1S so will go down the USB route for a lighting strip. I really enjoy your channel and your delivery of the information is right at my level 😃
Thanks for this, I am stuck though. I tried your remix of the gasket however the LED strips I have are 8.5mm and they are not fitting in there, is there any way you can remix it further for the 8.5mm LED strips? I would really appreciate it.
I’m one of the weirdos that can leave their glass on 24/7, and never open the door. I just keep the chamber below 40C, if it ever starts to creep towards there I just ramp the chamber fan.
@@3DRevolution scary! Really sorry to hear that… I once almost died in Ireland (that was once UK), so maybe that’s why I like your videos! 😅 (I don’t think so, I think it’s because you’re damn good at making videos!)
Well glad you survived Ireland too. Haha thanks, it was three years ago now, and I guess the silver lining is, if it hadn't have happened, I wouldn't be trying to make a real go of my channel right now, so swings and roundabouts. Haha thanks, it's all a process and my videos will only get better (...hopefully). I do have some big plans for the coming months.
You absolutely could integrate a HEPA filter into a riser, but you'd really want to design a new riser around it. You'd also want to ensure it has fans that are powerful enough to ensure a decent rate of flow, whilst pushing through the filter, that would still help keep temperatures down.
I have always set my AMS to the side - as i was worried that the additional weight on the top of the printer would increase the shaking of the printer as the weight would increase force movement. The printer already shakes a good deal from the rapid movements - is there anything to that?
I think we are talking in the context of when you do need a riser or to remove the lid according to the wiki/bed temp. What plate and bed temp are using to print PLA? Also when a company gives recommendations, they are trying to minimize customers from having issues. In some circumstances some people may not have issues, but other people will. And they want err on the side of caution.
That's very odd. PLA is the staple printing material and is printed around the world on all sorts of 3D printers, most of which don't even have an enclosure, with no warping. If you were opening the doors and removing the lid half way through a print that 'could' have an impact as it would suddenly change the printing environment which will affect print performance, so you could end up with a before /after quality line on your print. Alternatively, if your printer is in a particularly drafty area blowing air of different temperatures around, I guess that could have an impact. But either way, you shouldn't be getting warping with PLA purely due to not printing in an enclosure.
This was all in PLA. I believe there's a chance I may have used Bambu Tough PLA for the grey/silver bit because I already had that and the colour matched well but honestly, regular PLA will be more than fine.
I'm not aware of anyone that does, but it may also slightly defeat the point. The only use case for these are for people who have a 3D printer, and as it's something you'd want to print early on after getting your printer, printing your own can be a great initial project to help you get used to printing with the printer. If you'd like to help your son with one of these, I'd suggest buying him 4x 1kg spoools of filament that he can use to print this himself (and leave him with some leftover filament for printing other accessories)
Yes, it could do, but... If the enclosure is closed, any normal fan would just circulate the air. If you had an extractor fsn, unless you fitted it at the top (which isn't possible without a riser or further mods because the top is just the removable glass plate) , it's not going to be sucking the hot air that's risen to the top, and also would rely on equal gaps for ventilation for cooler air to be sucked in, which other than the purge chute also doesn't exist natively.
I dont usually remove the top or open the door when printing PLA and I have had no issues with that, no warping no heatcreep, I haven't seen the chamber temperature go above 36°C
I have thought about printing one of these risers but it is just one more thing to remove when doing the maintenance as I prefer to have access from the top.
I have a minimal riser under the glass to give a better angle for the Bowden tube going into the toolhead and to stop the Bowden tube scraping along the glass top.
NO AMS here, but I still like my riser (very similar to yours). It keeps my small tools and spare parts handy and together, provides safe storage for the top glass and build plates, moves the external spool mount to the side for easy access, and still lets me store an airtight filament bin on top. It did make a strip of LED lighting a necessity instead of a nice-to-have, but I was going to add that anyway. Wiring to my LED strip does have inline M&F connectors to ease maintenance, but I seldom need to remove the riser.
I absolutely agree about the inline connectors for the lighting fitted in the riser, makes the whole process so much easier if you do ever need to remove it.
Clear and concise!
Good clear concise explanation. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
I was also looking around for a riser quite some time now. And that one displayed in the video also got my attention for quite some while.
But I feel it's besides storing a bit of tools, which you could also easily store at another place, unpractical.
A lot of errors or maintenance require or make it much more handy when reaching in from the top. So when this occurs you still need to take everything off, including the riser. At least with a lot of AMS-risers, you have little to no space to reach into the printer from the top because they might be verry low due to their drawers or other things.
So a AMS riser surely could be verry handy, but not many are designed verry practically.
It's true thst most risers don't allow you to access the printer from the top whilst fitted, but as I explain, the main point of a riser (especially one like this with a solid top thst blocks access) is because you're storing your AMS on top. If that's the case, even if you didn't have a riser, you'd still need to remove the AMS to do any top maintenance, so lifting the riser off instead would be absolutely no difference. If anything it helps as it provides me more access from the top without needing to remove the AMS, reducing the chance I need to lift anything off.
In the 8 months I've had this one fitted, I've removed it on 3 occasions, and two of those were for recording videos.
So if you're storing a AMS on top, using a riser doesn't make top access any harder and in some cases makes if easier. If you're not storing an AMS on top, as you say, there's other riser designs tbst give you complete top access and ifs no different to just removing the glass plate like normal.
@@3DRevolution Well I need to put the AMS on top because of the space I have. So a riser might be a good solution here, since you're still able to get the glass plate open or even of.
But needing to get everything of is the same effort as printing without.
But fortunately there're a few designs out that tilt the AMS slightly over the back of the P1/X1 leaving more room in between. Or AMS risers that seem to be a bit higher and not having drawers.
Some designs actually might give enough space removing the plate and having some decent room on the top to reach in and doing some light maintenance or repair works on toolhead, tubing, rails etc. Also for cleaning and lubing.
Without the need of taking everything off all the time. Which might be a big advantage for people who have their P1/X1 just on a little table.
Great video. Subscribing
Awesome, thank you!
I'm not an expert, but does it really wear a PTFE tube out, if it's rubbing with barely any pressure against a glass surface? I didn't experience anything like that with my P1S, and it has a few thousand hours on it.
I put one of those minimal risers under the glass, apart for stopping the Bowden from scraping on the glass it allowed a better angle for the Bowden going into the toolhead, have you seen how the scraping Bowden tube affects printers with acrylic tops? the Creality and QIDI printers lids get very scratched up, I didn't see any damage to my glass top but the amount of errors decreased significantly and when the FW update came I no longer got any errors when filament was being loaded and unloaded.
I am in two minds whether to print one of these type of riser, I don't usually open the top or the door when printing PLA and I don't have any issues, the chamber temperature never gets above 36°C and if it did I could set the chamber fan to activate and keep the temperature low enough, the noise difference is massive also with the printer closed up.
Hi Ben, just finished printing out your riser on Maker World, very happy with the results, and notice you sell a premade lighting strip with a USB connection, Couldn't see where to ask the question there, so popped onto here, only a week into owning my P1S. Is there a USB port on the back of the printer, not noticed one, or do you use and external USB supply?
Hi Steve, I believe you may think I'm someone else, my name is Josh of 3D Revolution, I'm not Ben.
I also didn't design or supply the AMS riser I feature in this video, I'm just using it as an example to show what risers are and what they are used for.
I also don't sell a premade lighting strip. I have designed a gasket for the AMS Riser in this video (which I've linked to the designs for so you can download for free and print yourself), and that can work with any LED strips (the gasket is available in 3 sizes for 3 different LED strip widths).
Regarding power, there is no USB ports on the X1C (which I feature in this video) and I feed the cable out the back and have it plugged into a mains USB power brick.
P1P and P1S do feature a USB port which is located on the inside of the top bar at the front. This can output 5v so if you intend to power your LED strips with this, make sure you get 5V ones.
@@3DRevolution I’m so sorry I mixed you up with the person you referred to in your video. I do have a P1S so will go down the USB route for a lighting strip. I really enjoy your channel and your delivery of the information is right at my level 😃
Thanks for this, I am stuck though. I tried your remix of the gasket however the LED strips I have are 8.5mm and they are not fitting in there, is there any way you can remix it further for the 8.5mm LED strips? I would really appreciate it.
I’m one of the weirdos that can leave their glass on 24/7, and never open the door. I just keep the chamber below 40C, if it ever starts to creep towards there I just ramp the chamber fan.
Same here! my chamber never gets above 36°C with it closed up and I get no print issues either.
Same
Very nice Italian impression at 2:50! 😂
😂
To be fair, I almost died in Italy so when recusitated, I was reborn with a bit of Italian in me.
@@3DRevolution scary! Really sorry to hear that… I once almost died in Ireland (that was once UK), so maybe that’s why I like your videos! 😅 (I don’t think so, I think it’s because you’re damn good at making videos!)
Well glad you survived Ireland too.
Haha thanks, it was three years ago now, and I guess the silver lining is, if it hadn't have happened, I wouldn't be trying to make a real go of my channel right now, so swings and roundabouts. Haha thanks, it's all a process and my videos will only get better (...hopefully). I do have some big plans for the coming months.
Do they have one with drawers and can hold 2 AMS units side by side
Is there a way to include a hepa filter into a riser or something or would that trap too much heat? fan system too or would that cause issues?
You absolutely could integrate a HEPA filter into a riser, but you'd really want to design a new riser around it.
You'd also want to ensure it has fans that are powerful enough to ensure a decent rate of flow, whilst pushing through the filter, that would still help keep temperatures down.
I have always set my AMS to the side - as i was worried that the additional weight on the top of the printer would increase the shaking of the printer as the weight would increase force movement. The printer already shakes a good deal from the rapid movements - is there anything to that?
Extra weight will actually help reduce movement because of Newton's 1st Law. Basically the more it weight, the more energy it takes to move it.
Part cooling is not the reason. It's to prevent heat creep and softening of the filament at the extruder for lower glass transiton temp materials.
Absolutely, that too. I did mean to cover that in more depth in this video but I must have missed it, thanks for highlighting.
I keep my X1 Carbon closed when printing PLA, the temperature never gets above 36°C and I don't have any issues at all.
I think we are talking in the context of when you do need a riser or to remove the lid according to the wiki/bed temp. What plate and bed temp are using to print PLA? Also when a company gives recommendations, they are trying to minimize customers from having issues. In some circumstances some people may not have issues, but other people will. And they want err on the side of caution.
I get warping if I leave the door open or take the top glass off, even with PLA
That's very odd. PLA is the staple printing material and is printed around the world on all sorts of 3D printers, most of which don't even have an enclosure, with no warping.
If you were opening the doors and removing the lid half way through a print that 'could' have an impact as it would suddenly change the printing environment which will affect print performance, so you could end up with a before /after quality line on your print.
Alternatively, if your printer is in a particularly drafty area blowing air of different temperatures around, I guess that could have an impact.
But either way, you shouldn't be getting warping with PLA purely due to not printing in an enclosure.
What did you print this in.
This was all in PLA.
I believe there's a chance I may have used Bambu Tough PLA for the grey/silver bit because I already had that and the colour matched well but honestly, regular PLA will be more than fine.
Does anyone make and sell these completed? Would like to get one for my son. Thanks
I'm not aware of anyone that does, but it may also slightly defeat the point.
The only use case for these are for people who have a 3D printer, and as it's something you'd want to print early on after getting your printer, printing your own can be a great initial project to help you get used to printing with the printer.
If you'd like to help your son with one of these, I'd suggest buying him 4x 1kg spoools of filament that he can use to print this himself (and leave him with some leftover filament for printing other accessories)
🤙
Can you use an exhaust fan / fume extractor to achieve the same thing?
Yes, it could do, but...
If the enclosure is closed, any normal fan would just circulate the air. If you had an extractor fsn, unless you fitted it at the top (which isn't possible without a riser or further mods because the top is just the removable glass plate) , it's not going to be sucking the hot air that's risen to the top, and also would rely on equal gaps for ventilation for cooler air to be sucked in, which other than the purge chute also doesn't exist natively.