Don't know wheather it's been discussed here in the comments yet. But as I wanted this but have another AMS coming, I asked Dutch Developer about the issue. He told me, it now works with up to 4 AMS units. So ordered and no more questions asked 😁
As a photographer that lighting placement makes me wanna pull my eyeballs out. I know it’s cute and clever and seems cool from the standpoint of like a gamer who loves having LEDs all over the computer and walls. What’s the point of putting it to see you’ve put your lights in the most inconvenient spot where it has the most shadows possible The goal is to light up the interior a little better than that’s fine. However, I would skip all the extra and tacky semi fitting extension off the top and I would glue the LED strips to the inside of the frame at the top and call it a day. If your goal is optimal lighting for time lapse, the first thing you wanna do is eliminate shadows so you would have your light strip start just above the door so that it’s closer to the level of the tool, head and castle shadows, then you would extended across the front of the door and then along the right side at the same height this way from the camera perspective, you have good covered lighting on the left and right side which really illuminate your object. then you would also want to take the lights down the sides a little next to the door so that the entire length of your object on the Z axis is illuminated so as it goes down, it still has lots of good lighting when it’s fully printed. I would only do this next to the side glass so number one the camera doesn’t see the lights and your left side is a little brighter so that you have some nice shadows on the right side that shows the shape and texture nicely. Also, this would function effectively as case lighting for the entire inside of the case outside Long story short don’t do a ring of light above. It’s a big shadow mess. Just upside down you around your window and a small strip just above glass level that goes from front to back on the right side. That’s optimal lighting with the least amount of shadows.
Even though I am Dutch, I had to find out about this mod via your video. Today I installed it on my X1C and boy is it an improvement. So glad I ordered one. Thanks for sharing.
Uuh! That little thingy looks promising! For that little money, I will definitely pick one up, once the next paycheck comes in. Thanks for pointing me on it!
Glad to see Dutch's controller (and the mod work + MQTT connections the rest of the community has been doing with the printer) get more coverage! There's a surprising amount you can do with the MQTT data from the printer, despite it being quite "closed" as 3d printers go! With my own setup I have automations to control my lighting just like this (Dutch and I were throwing around ideas back when he was developing the prototypes), automatically turn on/off my bento-box for air filtration if it's currently printing with ABS or ASA, and much more! I practically have the whole printer controllable and monitored from HomeAssistant + NodeRed. Even getting the bed-mesh visualization from the printer was pretty neat, but unfortunately that won't be available on the newest firmware (but can be rolled back to one where it works), so it's important to know some things may change quite fast!
I miss klippers visualisations lol.. have you seen anything about getting this back please? I didn't even know it was possible, but I'm only 3 weeks into this particular x1c... my ender 3 pro whimpering in a corner modded to death lol.
@@Mr_Gadge Unfortunately newer firmware doesn't provide the information still, but luckily the one that does work is able to be downgraded to via the handy app. What I usually recommend now if people want to know the visualization of their X1C and to manually adjust it, is to roll back and spend a few hours with it, then re-upgrade firmware.
@@Tom--Ace Unfortunately it needs to be rolled back to a slightly older firmware and is for the X1C only. It gets the data for each point one by one so there's a lot of work involved in building the mesh. I have some guides for it and nodered flows that take care of this available. Should come up in a quick search!
LOVE LOVE LOVE!!! Thank you for sharing this! Ordering the parts today! And, you have a new subscriber. Thanks! (LOL, how many exclamation points was that?)
This is just what I was looking for. I have a riser on my X1 with LEDs but I have to manually turn them off for the lidar. Finally something that will take care of that for me. Thanks Daniel.
I have an ender 3 pro. Not an avid printer unless I need functional parts for something. Ordered a creality k1 max and 2 hours later cancelled the order when I saw the rave about the X1C. It’ll be here tomorrow and I feel this is a necessary mod. I love how intuitive it is. I’m very electric and electronic inclined but not software savvy but I think your video shows enough for me to figure it out. Thanks so much for your time creating and sharing this vid!
I'm going to wire in a D1 mini with a BTF light strip and control it with WLED. Alexa will then work too. Nice they include a USB port. This thing was well planned out! I only have a P1S tho. This device is pretty cool tho! D1 mini can be flashed with WLED, powered via the USB port (no other wiring really beside 3 led wires) and then will end up being a much more simple process...cheaper too!
Just placed my order on Etsy - looks like about a 30 day lead time so if you want one you should order NOW. At the time I am writing this, there are two in stock and 20 in peoples carts - you do the math 🙂
Ali Express has an LED strip that plugs in where the stock LED light does. It is super bright and is controlled exactly like stock and doesn’t require an external source. It doesn’t change colors for status, bit it is $5 rather than over $50 for all the parts for this.
Thanks for a great video. I have gotten three of the BL LED's for my trio of X1c's. I have installed one and will do the other two soon. Would you be able to do a video about setting up the functionality/settings in conjunction with the printer functions?
Dutch Developer needs a US distributor for the BL-LED Controller. Shipping from the Netherlands takes forever and by forever I mean over two weeks. It's really not a problem... I'm just looking forward to the upgrade. My boss at PwnCNC is adding it to his 30 printer print farm. I think he said one controller can actually run 5 X1s at once which is a real testament to controller.
btw, I think the AMS uses 24V you could probably just buy a spare AMS cable and clip the ends to wire it in should be safe as long as you check the positive and negative and would be removable ofc it won't work if you have 2x AMS's
Running my 3rd print on my P1S right now. It's ASA, so I have to keep the door closed and streaming like that isn't good... Having lighting like this will be helpful 🤘🤘
Very cool idea. Could also link it to one of those light towers you see in industrial settings attached to machinery like mills and stuff. Lights indicate status and can be seen from a distance. Might have to design a printable version.
There are now also RGB versions available that make a very even light. Of course, a classic tower has a certain appeal, too. Good (but perhaps a bit expensive manufacturers from a hobbyist's view) are Werma, Auer and Pfannenberg.
I got mine deliverd today. I did try everything that i could think off but nothing did work. - Installed several different CH34x drivers (all failed). In device manager only COM1 was active. Under "Universal Serial Bus-controllers" was a drivver "Unknown USB-device (request for devicedescriptor has failed)" witch did not work because the CH340/CH341 driver was not correctly installed. - Watched a lot of sites and youtube for more information. Same problem everytime. Then i stumbled on a thread where someone mentioned using a different usb-c cable. That instantly made a connection to my pc and i could install the firmware without a problem. Now i can also change lightning settings on my Bambu lab X1 Carbon via the BLLED controller via the ip-adress provided at the end of the setup. I could find no where on the BLLED page that the usb-cable could cause problems. This should be on the 1st page of the website.
The PSU on the P1P/S has two open screw terminals on the PSU that are also 24v. I suppose it isn't entirely necessary to use an external supply, although, I'm not exactly sure how much more headroom the psu has to run external devices, as I assume bambu lab would have picked one close to the rms wattage that the unit runs at.
I've been running 24v LEDs with power off the back of my AMS l. No issues at all. This looks awesome since it integrates the on/off and colors. Wish the shipping wasn't so high
Yeah, it's painful but international shipping is pretty brutal. I sell on Etsy as well and it's pretty much $15+ to ship anywhere outside the US. Would be nice if someone could get a bulk order into the US and then sell and ship to keep shipping lower.
I attached LED's to the bottom of my AMS system and powered it from a spare plug as i'm not planning on doing dual AMS units, you could tap into that plug for your power so that you don't need another plug. Just a thought.
Also I will probably do this mode but again with the LED's inside the AMS unit instead of on top and also the controller inside just tied to the power source so that way no extra wires are needed. Awesome video btw.
@@alex59292 i own an x plus 3 and i think it would be really cool, like the developer had responded to me and said it’s open source so i can’t imagine it would be too hard especially with the qidi running klipper
@@Nangano3di am not sure, really depends what printer p1p has a different payload than x1, if you have 2 connected to the p1p then it can work. But I haven’t tested it
@@Nangano3d I am unsure if it would work, i know it wont work with 3 and 4 amses but cant remember if 2. alternatively you could use homeassistant as a broker to controll the blledcontroller
anything is possible but from what I have seen it has been available for quite some time. It has been used for things like home assistant to monitor the printers.
Isn’t the AMS 24v? If you’re not going to use a 2nd AMS, couldn’t we simply purchase an AMS cable, splice it, and then pull power from the 2nd port on the AMS?
I'm definitely interested in doing this, but I'm not finding a layout for what wires to solder where on the LED strip. Is there an assembly guide anywhere that I missed?
I am having issues connecting went to discord and followed all the steps my phone still won't recognize the signal from the billed controller I can't find it thru Bluetooth but not WiFi any suggestions?
I’m a bit confused why can’t it be used with multiple AMS. I replayed the part where he said it a few times and still didn’t get it (old guy with hearing problems) 😀🤓 can somebody spell it out for me?
Hello, I have the same problem as you. I can't turn my LEDs on and off using the LED switch on the printer. After plugging in the module, the LEDs light up red briefly and then go out again.
Great devidce! Also its the first time hearing about the MQTT protocol, but for any of you that is more into it, could this be modified to work with any other printer runnig Klipper for example to make this device usable on printers beside Bambu?
installed the board and all started fine. Green light to begin with. BUT after a couple of minutes the led's start flashing white and yellow. only way to stop is unplug the power supply. restarting results in the same thing green after boot up the a couple of minutes later flashing white and yellow. Any idea's?
Could you clarify exactly which LEDs are needed for this? The link in the description is different from what you show in the video. What's linked is "White 12v" and whats pictured in the video is "RGBCCT 12mm PCB 24V" which I'm guessing is the correct one?
While a great video and explains a _lot_, it is slightly outdated not with the new firmware version. No longer need to access console to obtain and set IP address info. Also, what I'm not seeing is the need for 12v LED and power supply. 12V appears to work just fine.
so i dont know how to use discord to find the channel i tried doing a search but nothing, however i have the controller. I have the lights wired to box and found an ac adapeter from an older light strip cut the end off, assuming the white line on the one wire is the ground. i have plug not plugged in the wall and yet after i connect the 24v and grd to the box the controller got hot didnt notice it at first and when i grabbed it the plastic box was hot and soft. Now it is plugged in to USB at the time so is this why its getting hot? dont get why wiring the not connected plug to the box would do this. besides this issue i have not been able to get lights working at all. i have tried many ways with it not plugged in to usb and just into wall and i have been able to connect to it with the ip address but still nothing
I've seen elsewhere that the AMS connector pulls 24v. What do you think of cannibalizing the spare AMS connector and a cable instead of a separate power supply?
Does the camera work properly though ? Because unless the light is on when the print and calibration starts - the white balance will be off and you won't see anything really.
Was the problem you talked about with it not working because of the Xtouch on a P1S? I have P1S with Xtouch screen and a 12v strip and not a 24v. Powers up when I unplug and plug it back in but light goes off with switches but not back on. Does it have to be a 24v light strip?
Hello I bought your BL Led Controller for my Carbon X1. When I plug it into my computer, the Wi-Fi light doesn't come on or give me the option to go on my phone to access the file to link it to my Wi-Fi? What do I do now?
personally, I wouldn't use VHB tape to affix the controller to the back, I would use a Command strip, or even a Command Strip Picture Frame Hanging Strip (the velcro one) so that I could remove the controller easily for any maintenance in case (gods forbid) something decides to fry itself or die, or a wire comes loose somehow.
I use VHB for a lot of things. Maybe more than I should. I have found that if you sort of roll it from the side it comes off okay. But absolutely command strips or whatever you feel comfortable with are a great alternative.
Very nice idea. I just haven't figured out how to change the colors of the backlight. Or does it just indicate the status of the printer? Could it be done with WLED as well?
I running klipper on my ender 6. I have been able to make a bunch of mods. However, adding status light has been somewhat of a problem for me and something like this looks like it could help. Is there a way to add status light to my ender 6 running klipper or do I need an add on such as the one in the video? Thanks
Don't know wheather it's been discussed here in the comments yet. But as I wanted this but have another AMS coming, I asked Dutch Developer about the issue. He told me, it now works with up to 4 AMS units. So ordered and no more questions asked 😁
As a photographer that lighting placement makes me wanna pull my eyeballs out. I know it’s cute and clever and seems cool from the standpoint of like a gamer who loves having LEDs all over the computer and walls.
What’s the point of putting it to see you’ve put your lights in the most inconvenient spot where it has the most shadows possible
The goal is to light up the interior a little better than that’s fine. However, I would skip all the extra and tacky semi fitting extension off the top and I would glue the LED strips to the inside of the frame at the top and call it a day.
If your goal is optimal lighting for time lapse, the first thing you wanna do is eliminate shadows so you would have your light strip start just above the door so that it’s closer to the level of the tool, head and castle shadows, then you would extended across the front of the door and then along the right side at the same height this way from the camera perspective, you have good covered lighting on the left and right side which really illuminate your object. then you would also want to take the lights down the sides a little next to the door so that the entire length of your object on the Z axis is illuminated so as it goes down, it still has lots of good lighting when it’s fully printed. I would only do this next to the side glass so number one the camera doesn’t see the lights and your left side is a little brighter so that you have some nice shadows on the right side that shows the shape and texture nicely. Also, this would function effectively as case lighting for the entire inside of the case outside
Long story short don’t do a ring of light above. It’s a big shadow mess.
Just upside down you around your window and a small strip just above glass level that goes from front to back on the right side. That’s optimal lighting with the least amount of shadows.
This sounds awesome. This will be going on my P1P for sure.
Even though I am Dutch, I had to find out about this mod via your video. Today I installed it on my X1C and boy is it an improvement. So glad I ordered one. Thanks for sharing.
Can I ask you what power adaptor you use? I can only find US plugs, not EU ones. Dutch too, btw
Uuh! That little thingy looks promising! For that little money, I will definitely pick one up, once the next paycheck comes in. Thanks for pointing me on it!
This was a superb mod to add to my P1s, i combined it with the DKriser over on printables its just a beauty!
Glad to see Dutch's controller (and the mod work + MQTT connections the rest of the community has been doing with the printer) get more coverage! There's a surprising amount you can do with the MQTT data from the printer, despite it being quite "closed" as 3d printers go! With my own setup I have automations to control my lighting just like this (Dutch and I were throwing around ideas back when he was developing the prototypes), automatically turn on/off my bento-box for air filtration if it's currently printing with ABS or ASA, and much more! I practically have the whole printer controllable and monitored from HomeAssistant + NodeRed.
Even getting the bed-mesh visualization from the printer was pretty neat, but unfortunately that won't be available on the newest firmware (but can be rolled back to one where it works), so it's important to know some things may change quite fast!
I miss klippers visualisations lol.. have you seen anything about getting this back please? I didn't even know it was possible, but I'm only 3 weeks into this particular x1c... my ender 3 pro whimpering in a corner modded to death lol.
@@Mr_Gadge Unfortunately newer firmware doesn't provide the information still, but luckily the one that does work is able to be downgraded to via the handy app. What I usually recommend now if people want to know the visualization of their X1C and to manually adjust it, is to roll back and spend a few hours with it, then re-upgrade firmware.
@@WolfwithSword ok many thanks. You’d think they didn’t want people to see how bad their beds can be 🤔🤣
@@WolfwithSwordHow do you get into the mqtt data to see the mesh data?
I'd like to check how level my bed is
@@Tom--Ace Unfortunately it needs to be rolled back to a slightly older firmware and is for the X1C only. It gets the data for each point one by one so there's a lot of work involved in building the mesh. I have some guides for it and nodered flows that take care of this available. Should come up in a quick search!
Outstanding video! I gave it a try and it works awesome. Just what my P1S needed. Thank you.
LOVE LOVE LOVE!!! Thank you for sharing this! Ordering the parts today! And, you have a new subscriber. Thanks! (LOL, how many exclamation points was that?)
I count six :). Thanks for subscribing!
This is just what I was looking for. I have a riser on my X1 with LEDs but I have to manually turn them off for the lidar. Finally something that will take care of that for me. Thanks Daniel.
I have an ender 3 pro. Not an avid printer unless I need functional parts for something. Ordered a creality k1 max and 2 hours later cancelled the order when I saw the rave about the X1C. It’ll be here tomorrow and I feel this is a necessary mod. I love how intuitive it is. I’m very electric and electronic inclined but not software savvy but I think your video shows enough for me to figure it out. Thanks so much for your time creating and sharing this vid!
I'm going to wire in a D1 mini with a BTF light strip and control it with WLED. Alexa will then work too. Nice they include a USB port. This thing was well planned out! I only have a P1S tho. This device is pretty cool tho! D1 mini can be flashed with WLED, powered via the USB port (no other wiring really beside 3 led wires) and then will end up being a much more simple process...cheaper too!
Elegant solution to a problem I want to solve. Ordered, also subscribed. 😉😉
Just finished the install. Simply brilliant. Maybe my favorite upgrade on a printer.
Just placed my order on Etsy - looks like about a 30 day lead time so if you want one you should order NOW. At the time I am writing this, there are two in stock and 20 in peoples carts - you do the math 🙂
Gone lol. Ordered last week.
Ali Express has an LED strip that plugs in where the stock LED light does. It is super bright and is controlled exactly like stock and doesn’t require an external source. It doesn’t change colors for status, bit it is $5 rather than over $50 for all the parts for this.
Do you have a link or product ID for this? I'm interested in that for sure.
Thanks for a great video. I have gotten three of the BL LED's for my trio of X1c's. I have installed one and will do the other two soon. Would you be able to do a video about setting up the functionality/settings in conjunction with the printer functions?
Dutch Developer needs a US distributor for the BL-LED Controller. Shipping from the Netherlands takes forever and by forever I mean over two weeks. It's really not a problem... I'm just looking forward to the upgrade.
My boss at PwnCNC is adding it to his 30 printer print farm. I think he said one controller can actually run 5 X1s at once which is a real testament to controller.
Two weeks is fast. I just ordered mine and the order confirmation indicates a two-month delivery to the US.
btw, I think the AMS uses 24V
you could probably just buy a spare AMS cable and clip the ends to wire it in
should be safe as long as you check the positive and negative and would be removable
ofc it won't work if you have 2x AMS's
That was what i am planning to do as well.
i dont have a 3d printer at all but for some reason still watched this entire thing lmao
i mean you could flash esp-home onto it and make it a ledstrip controller for your smart home :)
Running my 3rd print on my P1S right now. It's ASA, so I have to keep the door closed and streaming like that isn't good... Having lighting like this will be helpful 🤘🤘
Very cool idea. Could also link it to one of those light towers you see in industrial settings attached to machinery like mills and stuff. Lights indicate status and can be seen from a distance. Might have to design a printable version.
There are now also RGB versions available that make a very even light. Of course, a classic tower has a certain appeal, too.
Good (but perhaps a bit expensive manufacturers from a hobbyist's view) are Werma, Auer and Pfannenberg.
Those are called andon lights.
Night and day compare to the original factory lights! Awesome! 👍😎
I got mine deliverd today.
I did try everything that i could think off but nothing did work.
- Installed several different CH34x drivers (all failed). In device manager only COM1 was active.
Under "Universal Serial Bus-controllers" was a drivver "Unknown USB-device (request for devicedescriptor has failed)"
witch did not work because the CH340/CH341 driver was not correctly installed.
- Watched a lot of sites and youtube for more information. Same problem everytime.
Then i stumbled on a thread where someone mentioned using a different usb-c cable. That instantly made a connection to my pc and i could install the firmware without a problem. Now i can also change lightning settings on my Bambu lab X1 Carbon via the BLLED controller via the ip-adress provided at the end of the setup.
I could find no where on the BLLED page that the usb-cable could cause problems. This should be on the 1st page of the website.
This machine is awesome 😎 🇺🇸
Just finding this channel and loving it man
Thank you 🙏 and welcome!
Installed today on my X1C, great mod
The PSU on the P1P/S has two open screw terminals on the PSU that are also 24v. I suppose it isn't entirely necessary to use an external supply, although, I'm not exactly sure how much more headroom the psu has to run external devices, as I assume bambu lab would have picked one close to the rms wattage that the unit runs at.
Excellent discovery, it's ordered, thank you!
I've been running 24v LEDs with power off the back of my AMS l. No issues at all. This looks awesome since it integrates the on/off and colors. Wish the shipping wasn't so high
Was thinking the same thing with this mod
Yeah, it's painful but international shipping is pretty brutal. I sell on Etsy as well and it's pretty much $15+ to ship anywhere outside the US. Would be nice if someone could get a bulk order into the US and then sell and ship to keep shipping lower.
Just finished putting together the bento box v2 purifier for the x1c, now I need to wire it. Doing this to improve lighting next.
This is a great idea... totally awesome to see what & when on the prints.
Great find
Good implementation!
Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us 🙂
Great overview of the controller thank you
Great, something else I didn't know I had to have.
I attached LED's to the bottom of my AMS system and powered it from a spare plug as i'm not planning on doing dual AMS units, you could tap into that plug for your power so that you don't need another plug. Just a thought.
Can you show how you did that
Also I will probably do this mode but again with the LED's inside the AMS unit instead of on top and also the controller inside just tied to the power source so that way no extra wires are needed. Awesome video btw.
Mine worked for one print then disconnected. Checked Wifi signal its 1 bar out of four. So it is great when it works. One time.
Excellent. I want this.
He’s marked it as sold out.
I ordered just before this, so fingers crossed. No rush lol.
Edit: It's arrriiiived lol.
I like this LED setup, I wonder if I could run a Bento box off the same power source.
pretty sure someone already is sharing the same psu as bentobox
@@DutchDeveloper I think I might have it figured out. I will share, once I know it works.
would love to see this for other printers, specifically the qidi x plus 3
Why would you want it on a qidi I thought it's open source no?
It’s completely open source! So why not fork the code and make it work?
@@alex59292 i own an x plus 3 and i think it would be really cool, like the developer had responded to me and said it’s open source so i can’t imagine it would be too hard especially with the qidi running klipper
I would be glad to install one of these on my P1S and make a video.
Awesome video I may give this a shot on my p1p
I print a lot of ABS and high temp mats and I'm worried it'd reduce the insulation!
Awesome
This is such a cool and smart mod, but I can't tell if this mod work with the bambu LED strips that they sell or not?
Just with the LEDs. Mine came with the wires tailing from both ends of the strip. Did you just cut one of them off?
Is there a work around for machines with more then one ams yet?? Literally was about to purchase until that 😂
Me too
What is the influence of an AMS on this?
great video, will be doing this!
this seems excessive. cant we use a standard esp boad ? and maybe the 5v from the lightbar?
🎉🎉🎉
The man himself
I have two ams connected, will this work for me?
@@Nangano3di am not sure, really depends what printer p1p has a different payload than x1, if you have 2 connected to the p1p then it can work. But I haven’t tested it
@@DutchDeveloper I have an X1C with 2 AMS units.
@@Nangano3d I am unsure if it would work, i know it wont work with 3 and 4 amses but cant remember if 2. alternatively you could use homeassistant as a broker to controll the blledcontroller
looks good,
only thing i can think off, and you mention if the firmware updates and changes the mqtt messages or "encrypt" data we lose this option...
anything is possible but from what I have seen it has been available for quite some time. It has been used for things like home assistant to monitor the printers.
Isn’t the AMS 24v? If you’re not going to use a 2nd AMS, couldn’t we simply purchase an AMS cable, splice it, and then pull power from the 2nd port on the AMS?
I'm definitely interested in doing this, but I'm not finding a layout for what wires to solder where on the LED strip. Is there an assembly guide anywhere that I missed?
I am having issues connecting went to discord and followed all the steps my phone still won't recognize the signal from the billed controller I can't find it thru Bluetooth but not WiFi any suggestions?
Sold out already haha. Damn.
Would love to do this, but if it does not work with multiple AMS's, no dice.
Yeah that was unfortunate for me too, because I'm planning to get another AMS soon :(
I’m a bit confused why can’t it be used with multiple AMS. I replayed the part where he said it a few times and still didn’t get it (old guy with hearing problems) 😀🤓 can somebody spell it out for me?
Where is the "best Bambu Lab X1 Upgrades" Video?!?
Hello, I have the same problem as you. I can't turn my LEDs on and off using the LED switch on the printer.
After plugging in the module, the LEDs light up red briefly and then go out again.
How do i update the newer version, my light's keep on shutting off .
I have ordered as well, just a bit confused as I stated below
Great devidce! Also its the first time hearing about the MQTT protocol, but for any of you that is more into it, could this be modified to work with any other printer runnig Klipper for example to make this device usable on printers beside Bambu?
Great mod, looking to add to my x1c. Does the LED light affect the lidar sensor at all?
installed the board and all started fine. Green light to begin with. BUT after a couple of minutes the led's start flashing white and yellow. only way to stop is unplug the power supply. restarting results in the same thing green after boot up the a couple of minutes later flashing white and yellow. Any idea's?
Could you clarify exactly which LEDs are needed for this? The link in the description is different from what you show in the video. What's linked is "White 12v" and whats pictured in the video is "RGBCCT 12mm PCB 24V" which I'm guessing is the correct one?
Sorry Aliexpress doesn’t let me link correctly it just goes to the default. What you said 24v rgbcct 12mm are correct.
@@ModBotArmy Great, thank you for clarifying! Placing my order now.
just get a 5v ledstrip with a bluetooth controller on its usb hub, dirt cheap, plug it in your printers 5v usb slot
While a great video and explains a _lot_, it is slightly outdated not with the new firmware version. No longer need to access console to obtain and set IP address info. Also, what I'm not seeing is the need for 12v LED and power supply. 12V appears to work just fine.
Im using a 12v too but only powers up when i unplug and plug it back and then when i turn it off doesnt turn back on.
so i dont know how to use discord to find the channel i tried doing a search but nothing, however i have the controller. I have the lights wired to box and found an ac adapeter from an older light strip cut the end off, assuming the white line on the one wire is the ground. i have plug not plugged in the wall and yet after i connect the 24v and grd to the box the controller got hot didnt notice it at first and when i grabbed it the plastic box was hot and soft. Now it is plugged in to USB at the time so is this why its getting hot? dont get why wiring the not connected plug to the box would do this.
besides this issue i have not been able to get lights working at all. i have tried many ways with it not plugged in to usb and just into wall and i have been able to connect to it with the ip address but still nothing
I've seen elsewhere that the AMS connector pulls 24v. What do you think of cannibalizing the spare AMS connector and a cable instead of a separate power supply?
Awesomeness!
Does the camera work properly though ? Because unless the light is on when the print and calibration starts - the white balance will be off and you won't see anything really.
Was the problem you talked about with it not working because of the Xtouch on a P1S? I have P1S with Xtouch screen and a 12v strip and not a 24v. Powers up when I unplug and plug it back in but light goes off with switches but not back on. Does it have to be a 24v light strip?
Does it support addressable LED strips so you can have multicoloured animations and stuff?
Hello I bought your BL Led Controller for my Carbon X1. When I plug it into my computer, the Wi-Fi light doesn't come on or give me the option to go on my phone to access the file to link it to my Wi-Fi? What do I do now?
Hey! It’s not my product, I just tested it out. If your having issues I would check in the official discord. discord.com/invite/UCtPQXBqTc
I just can't do it. I like the dim one on the side lol...
Where can I find a controller? Judt got my X1C today and need these rgb's in my life!!!
What gauge wires are coming off the led strip?
Can i use 12 Volt too or must i use 24 Volts?
Is this still working a few firmware updates up the road?. Could the 24v feed from the AMS lead not be used?
Is the lightstrip via the controllerbox dimmable (in case, that the light is too bright)?
Dud. Controller will not connect to wifi and now it’s dead. Stopped broadcasting.
Tried installing this with non rgbw my lights just flash
Do I need to buy color coded wires separately? Thanks!
Mine just flashes what am I doing wrong
@ModBot, why did you swap out the (blue & green wire)?
I am very surprised that they did not pull the power from the AMS port
you can pull power from the ams. but i dont recommend it because if something were to happen you're out of luck interms of warrenty from bambulab
@@DutchDeveloper true...but I can't imagine you're drawing that much power
personally, I wouldn't use VHB tape to affix the controller to the back, I would use a Command strip, or even a Command Strip Picture Frame Hanging Strip (the velcro one) so that I could remove the controller easily for any maintenance in case (gods forbid) something decides to fry itself or die, or a wire comes loose somehow.
I use VHB for a lot of things. Maybe more than I should. I have found that if you sort of roll it from the side it comes off okay. But absolutely command strips or whatever you feel comfortable with are a great alternative.
What spoil holder are you using?
You blurred out your WiFi SSID from 3:00 to 3:14, but it's in the log shown from 3:46... 🙈
So I did 😂
Where i can find the link for the Screen in this Video for the P1P?
does this also works on the p1s? probably not because of the weak cpu right?
Would it be possible to use this on a Klipper based printer?
Is it even possible to use with the Bambu Lab P1P?
Very nice idea. I just haven't figured out how to change the colors of the backlight. Or does it just indicate the status of the printer? Could it be done with WLED as well?
yes it could be done with WLED, there's already a fork of the source coding suporting that
Where can I find the source code or instructions on how to set it up? Thank you@@DutchDeveloper
@@romanletnansky1828 on the website mentioned by modbot you find my source then under forks
RGB feature? Bells and whistles…
I running klipper on my ender 6. I have been able to make a bunch of mods. However, adding status light has been somewhat of a problem for me and something like this looks like it could help. Is there a way to add status light to my ender 6 running klipper or do I need an add on such as the one in the video? Thanks
Where can I find the filament roller in the beginning?
the computer doesn't see the controller :(
Did you cut the led
can i use the firmware for my own module (esp32) or I MUST PAY ?
???
Do you have links to the LED strips and power source required on Amazon?
There's an Amazon link for the power supply in the description. Unfortunately, he only included the Aliexpress link for the LEDs.