I fixed mine with adding another spring with the existing one and it levels everything out and the most important part it handles well.i might change the oil to 50 instead of the stock 30 weight.
It chasis slaps regardless even if you put think oil or if you double up on the springs same results and your driving experience isn't going to be well at least in my opinion,they should add longer suspension travel
@@macmccartney5760are you running sledge rear springs, if so did it stop the back end from slamming the deck,, and how did it effect flat land handling
The chassis slap is annoying but I believe it keeps you from breaking the suspension arms. It chassis slaps before the shocks are fully compressed so it may prevent damage but man it is annoying.
Yeah i guess, but its just got to have more dampening before it slaps. I have it figured out just haven’t had the time to make a follow up video on the full fix but it is coming.
Chassis slap is annoying and it sounds terrible, I hate it! But chassis slap it's not so bad, like many peoples thinks. If the truck is landing on the ground, the chassis do absorbes some of the impact. If there is no chassis slap and only the tires and shocks absorbes the whole impact some parts maybe get broken. So I think some chassis slap is intentional, just my two cents... I use 700cps fluid (that's something about 55WT) in the front and rear shocks and that's enough for me. Bash it and have fun! Greetings from Germany/Poland P.S. Sorry for my bad english!
It's true, seems like a lot of people think chassis slap is the devil and you have to totally get rid of it, but it's absorbing energy that's just going straight to your other parts like suspension if you totally eliminate it. Still- out of the box the Maxx slaps HARD, even with barely any air. It's definitely worth doing some tuning to reduce the impact and spread the load out- but I don't think the goal should be to totally get rid of it.
@@combofriend4461 for sure i went with 100wt oil and m2c pistons on my maxx v2 . that thing slaps if you look at it wrong,. i even put the 2.14lb springs on the rear. but i dont crank them down too far and moved the 1.74 springs to the front. rebound has been my enemy but its like 300% better and not too stiff for traction rolls.
The stock v2 widemaxx comes from factory with 60w front and rear. Online instructions say it come factory fill with 60w. Your saying 30w I'm confused 😕
To my knowledge most if not all Traxxas RTR cars are built with 30wt shock fluid. It simplifies manufacturing by keeping the oil uniform across most models. What they could have done was change up the shock pistons to work with the 30wt oil better in the MAXX that would have made a good difference but as i understand nothing was changed in regards to the shock package between the V1 and V2
@@SuperFastRc yeah brother when ya installed the widemaxx kits on v1 traxxas recommends using at least 50weight and swapping the springs around, I use 70 myself in the back, but have heard alot about these "Gold" springs fixing th issue of bottom slap, it's still not perfect, wonder about 100 weight myself
It’s just a neutral weight. Oil weight are different in different temperatures. In cold weather it’s a lot thicker than hot weather. It’s not the oil weight that’s the problem. Thicker weight will just slow down rebound. The slower the rebound the longer it takes the shock to return to its nuetral position. Faster rebound will help with choppy conditions. It’s a The problem is preload. It needs stiffer springs in the rear. The vehicle also has a high center of gravity making it more prone to flipping over on turns. Putting the shocks in the lower position will help. The max is more of a stunt truck. For flips and jumps.
@@SuperFastRc I was just asking on a reddit post about this- the manual shows it as 60, but it doesn't feel like that at all. I dropped it on my concrete garage floor from only like 2 feet and the slap was so loud I thought I broke something. But I want to know bc I ordered 60 and 70, and I don't want to waste my money on the 60 lol. Also a lot of people are putting in 60 and saying they notice the difference. That would be a weird typo to make though- if they left the same stock 30wt as the v1, why would they even be touching that section of the manual... I think when I get my 60 in today I'm just going to compare them side by side and see if there's a difference.
when your changing oil in your shocks i found it easier if you take both the rears off, change the oil in one and compare to the other, also remove the springs when doing this, this will save you a lot of time
Im just afraid if i go much heavier with the oil i will lose more rear traction. Im thinking about lengthening the rod ends and going with 60wt all around
I got some 70 and 80wt. If I put 70 in front and 80 in rear is that a bad move? Can I empty out half in the front and add 70 to make it like 50? Does it work like that lol
@@SuperFastRc please keep us posted about your tuning... I was about to order one but I am a little hesitant because of the way it handles... I might go for rhe mt410 but I don't know if they will release I new version of it soon..
What are you comparing it too? Only RTR MTs that handle better out of the box are Revos. I switched to 60w front 70w rear after a couple days of bashing and it didn't really change the handling at all but improved jump landings. Stock oil was filled with air bubbles but thats "RTR" for ya🤣
v2 came with 50w stock, not 30w. And your "rebound test" was incorrect as well. You were just pushing and pulling the shaft back and forth like you were bleeding it still.
Revo is a race monster truck that was so good it killed the class. Maxx is a basher and takes considerably more punishment than a revo ever could. And rebound is tested by taking the spring off and pushing the shaft all the way in and monitoring how far and fast it PUSHES ITSELF back out. You don't pull it back yourself, that tells you nothing. Pretty serious thing to get wrong in a supposed "Suspension tuning" video.
@@RobFRC Its not like we are tuning a race buggy here. Rebound is not going to make that much difference. And these shocks aren’t really designed to have much additional tune ability other than springs and oil. They don’t offer different bladders or bleeder screws for emulsion. Heck they don’t even offer different pistons… What they could do is provide you a shock package that works out of the box like other RTR manufactures do. The E-Revo shock package works out of the box. The X-Maxx shock package works out of the box. My point is that they need to actually test and tune these trucks for what they will actually be used for before they release them.
Mine were packed full of air bubbles stock as were ever traxxas rtr I've had. Even just thoroughly bleeding and topping off the stock shock oil would probably make an improvement but I always end up changing the weights too. It doesn't need to be a race buggy for the rebound to be important. If it doesn't rebound on its own, then there's still air in the shock oil and it will not function properly.
@@idan678 well i changed wheels to some jetcos cobra tyres as my sledge hammers fell apart on 6s and i run 23/50 gears thats all i done motor is a hobbywing 2200kv g2 system
Went 50 front and 70 back, with the wide kit, steel drive shafts, Pro Line badlands 3.8 HP belted tires, aluminum tie rods, 17mm hubs with aluminum nut. The dual profile tires they put on the maxx are trash. HP outer with LP inner sucks.
@@SuperFastRc I've seen people say they went up to 90/100 and it still slapped on a decent size jump- idk if you can totally get rid of it- and at that point the tradeoff on general handling seems like too much lol. But I agree w/ the people saying some amount of chassis slap is good to help distribute the impact of the landing- it's just WAY too much out of the box.
Yes, i use exclusively TLR oils due to the color code they use helps me remember what oil i put in the shocks when i rebuild. TEAM LOSI RACING Shock Oil, 6Pk, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 2oz, TLR74021 www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFCVDUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8BM9D53ASKS18BGFQWA2
Quick question. Have you made any adjustments to your rear shocks, since the front and rear are all the same lengths? I saw the following video and was curious as to your thoughts, if you don't mind me asking here. Thanks in advance for your time and willingness to reflect. ua-cam.com/video/j7iqoc4Xhng/v-deo.html
Nah, truck was sold shortly after this video - just not that exciting of a platform for me. I have since picked up a new stampede 4x4 vxl and it is a much more enjoyable truck
The maxx lacks suspension travel for a monster truck. It would be better to replace the bottom shock ends with the longer rpm ones, u will gain more travel, shocks will work better to soften the landings. Someone posted a video showing the difference. But ofcorse more travel means it will not take turns as good, but it’s a monster truck in the end
I don’t think adding longer rod ends would help the travel. It would just raise the rear ride height. The shocks stroke will still be the same i believe. Spoiler the oil change really helps
A longer shock end is not going to give you more travel . Its just going to give you more droop . The stroke does not change with a longer eyelet . If you want more stroke just unthread the stock eyelet about 3 turns . you will then get more stroke and more droop . But its not going to help .
@@SuperFastRc stock, the chassis bottoms out early with much more left in the shock, with the longer rod ends it will increase the overall suspension travel And it will fully utilize the shock stroke on up travel giving u better dampening on landings. Ride height can be changed with the collar to maintain it as u like, but You will get much more droop to help soak up the bumps. You can check the video posted by “ tp-parts rc xtreme” to get an idea of what I’m talking about. ua-cam.com/video/noMWy02q_fQ/v-deo.html Increasing shock weight helps to an extent until it gets too stiff. Overall the maxx lacks suspension travel for a monster truck.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I use 50 weight in my maxx but I also gorilla glued two of the shock piston holes shut. Working out really good for me
I fixed mine with adding another spring with the existing one and it levels everything out and the most important part it handles well.i might change the oil to 50 instead of the stock 30 weight.
So mines got a lot of aluminum parts in it and it’s pretty heavy I’m currently running tlr 100wt
It chasis slaps regardless even if you put think oil or if you double up on the springs same results and your driving experience isn't going to be well at least in my opinion,they should add longer suspension travel
Sledge shocks
I guess to make it perfect you need to play not just with oil but also with spring firmness. I think stock strings are too soft
Sledge rear springs work good man, plus 80 oil
@@macmccartney5760are you running sledge rear springs, if so did it stop the back end from slamming the deck,, and how did it effect flat land handling
Will adding heavier oil in the F+R shocks help to minimize the rolling that happens on grass surfaces?
@@TeddysVentures i think a heavier rear shock would help but that would hurt other aspects of handling as well…
The chassis slap is annoying but I believe it keeps you from breaking the suspension arms. It chassis slaps before the shocks are fully compressed so it may prevent damage but man it is annoying.
Yeah i guess, but its just got to have more dampening before it slaps. I have it figured out just haven’t had the time to make a follow up video on the full fix but it is coming.
Chassis slap is annoying and it sounds terrible, I hate it! But chassis slap it's not so bad, like many peoples thinks. If the truck is landing on the ground, the chassis do absorbes some of the impact. If there is no chassis slap and only the tires and shocks absorbes the whole impact some parts maybe get broken. So I think some chassis slap is intentional, just my two cents...
I use 700cps fluid (that's something about 55WT) in the front and rear shocks and that's enough for me.
Bash it and have fun!
Greetings from Germany/Poland
P.S.
Sorry for my bad english!
Yeah slap is normally a good thing but with the x max it kind of hurts the bulkheads for some reason. Thats why it needs a brace
Take the spring off to bleed it easier ?
chassis slap prevents rear axles from snapping as well when landing while car is at high RPMS.
It's true, seems like a lot of people think chassis slap is the devil and you have to totally get rid of it, but it's absorbing energy that's just going straight to your other parts like suspension if you totally eliminate it. Still- out of the box the Maxx slaps HARD, even with barely any air. It's definitely worth doing some tuning to reduce the impact and spread the load out- but I don't think the goal should be to totally get rid of it.
@@combofriend4461 for sure i went with 100wt oil and m2c pistons on my maxx v2 . that thing slaps if you look at it wrong,. i even put the 2.14lb springs on the rear. but i dont crank them down too far and moved the 1.74 springs to the front. rebound has been my enemy but its like 300% better and not too stiff for traction rolls.
Good video, thank you for the information. We plan on buying two new Maxx’s soon and I know Traxxas uses very light weight oil.
The stock v2 widemaxx comes from factory with 60w front and rear. Online instructions say it come factory fill with 60w. Your saying 30w I'm confused 😕
Traxxas made a running change. My kit was a really early sample
Why did they use 30wt for the v2??? I could’ve sworn they recommended 50wt for when you install the widemaxx kit for the v1.
To my knowledge most if not all Traxxas RTR cars are built with 30wt shock fluid. It simplifies manufacturing by keeping the oil uniform across most models. What they could have done was change up the shock pistons to work with the 30wt oil better in the MAXX that would have made a good difference but as i understand nothing was changed in regards to the shock package between the V1 and V2
@@SuperFastRc yeah brother when ya installed the widemaxx kits on v1 traxxas recommends using at least 50weight and swapping the springs around, I use 70 myself in the back, but have heard alot about these "Gold" springs fixing th issue of bottom slap, it's still not perfect, wonder about 100 weight myself
It’s just a neutral weight. Oil weight are different in different temperatures. In cold weather it’s a lot thicker than hot weather. It’s not the oil weight that’s the problem. Thicker weight will just slow down rebound. The slower the rebound the longer it takes the shock to return to its nuetral position. Faster rebound will help with choppy conditions. It’s a The problem is preload. It needs stiffer springs in the rear. The vehicle also has a high center of gravity making it more prone to flipping over on turns. Putting the shocks in the lower position will help. The max is more of a stunt truck. For flips and jumps.
Maybe you are right. But i think i have it just about dialed in at 70F and 55R and then lightening up the diff fluids as well. Video coming soon
@@SuperFastRc terrific brother it's a definite video worthy topic!
I believe the V2 Maxx has 60wt from the factory, 70wt seems like a good choice I'm going to try it myself as well.
I looked it up in the new V2 manual they recently released
Yeah its nowhere near AE 60wt then its like AE 30wt
@@SuperFastRc I was just asking on a reddit post about this- the manual shows it as 60, but it doesn't feel like that at all. I dropped it on my concrete garage floor from only like 2 feet and the slap was so loud I thought I broke something. But I want to know bc I ordered 60 and 70, and I don't want to waste my money on the 60 lol. Also a lot of people are putting in 60 and saying they notice the difference. That would be a weird typo to make though- if they left the same stock 30wt as the v1, why would they even be touching that section of the manual... I think when I get my 60 in today I'm just going to compare them side by side and see if there's a difference.
when your changing oil in your shocks i found it easier if you take both the rears off, change the oil in one and compare to the other, also remove the springs when doing this, this will save you a lot of time
I've got AE 80wt all they way around , sticks most landings.
Im just afraid if i go much heavier with the oil i will lose more rear traction. Im thinking about lengthening the rod ends and going with 60wt all around
@@SuperFastRc 500k center and rear , 50k front , no traction loss. better handling.
I got some 70 and 80wt. If I put 70 in front and 80 in rear is that a bad move? Can I empty out half in the front and add 70 to make it like 50? Does it work like that lol
Yes you can mix them, just make sure you measure it out equal parts and do the math and you are good!
my maxx has amazing handling i wonder why if they have recently did something different? i just got mine at christmas time
Yeah, they did a running change with the shock package. Upped the oil thickness.
Looks much better with the 70W and rear shock collars almost all the way down 👍
I hope it helps, i have some hard bashing planned for tomorrow
@@SuperFastRc please keep us posted about your tuning... I was about to order one but I am a little hesitant because of the way it handles... I might go for rhe mt410 but I don't know if they will release I new version of it soon..
I use 80 front rear and stiffer sledge rear springs in back of my wideMaxx.. works for me brother
I’ve been considering that option for my Maxx V2. If you have more information, part numbers and advice I am all ears! Thank you.
What are you comparing it too? Only RTR MTs that handle better out of the box are Revos. I switched to 60w front 70w rear after a couple days of bashing and it didn't really change the handling at all but improved jump landings. Stock oil was filled with air bubbles but thats "RTR" for ya🤣
v2 came with 50w stock, not 30w. And your "rebound test" was incorrect as well. You were just pushing and pulling the shaft back and forth like you were bleeding it still.
Well i mean yeah the revo is like $50 more. How can you not compare 😁
Revo is a race monster truck that was so good it killed the class. Maxx is a basher and takes considerably more punishment than a revo ever could.
And rebound is tested by taking the spring off and pushing the shaft all the way in and monitoring how far and fast it PUSHES ITSELF back out. You don't pull it back yourself, that tells you nothing. Pretty serious thing to get wrong in a supposed "Suspension tuning" video.
@@RobFRC Its not like we are tuning a race buggy here.
Rebound is not going to make that much difference. And these shocks aren’t really designed to have much additional tune ability other than springs and oil.
They don’t offer different bladders or bleeder screws for emulsion.
Heck they don’t even offer different pistons…
What they could do is provide you a shock package that works out of the box like other RTR manufactures do.
The E-Revo shock package works out of the box.
The X-Maxx shock package works out of the box.
My point is that they need to actually test and tune these trucks for what they will actually be used for before they release them.
Mine were packed full of air bubbles stock as were ever traxxas rtr I've had. Even just thoroughly bleeding and topping off the stock shock oil would probably make an improvement but I always end up changing the weights too.
It doesn't need to be a race buggy for the rebound to be important. If it doesn't rebound on its own, then there's still air in the shock oil and it will not function properly.
i no its 2 years old but i run 70wt front and 80wt on rear and its like night and day diffrence on my maxx v2
any more changes you done? i want to get mine to handle better as well i have the V1 with widemaxx kit and sledgehammer tires
@@idan678 well i changed wheels to some jetcos cobra tyres as my sledge hammers fell apart on 6s and i run 23/50 gears thats all i done motor is a hobbywing 2200kv g2 system
Went 50 front and 70 back, with the wide kit, steel drive shafts, Pro Line badlands 3.8 HP belted tires, aluminum tie rods, 17mm hubs with aluminum nut. The dual profile tires they put on the maxx are trash. HP outer with LP inner sucks.
Yeah i understand that makes inner wheel weaker
according to the manual - its 60wt from the factory not 30.
@@mxthunder2 I had one of the very early trucks. They made a running change to 60wt after.
New subscriber 👍 do u know if they make a sway bar 4 the maxx v2 ?
Thanks for sub! No i do not believe they do, at least their is no spot for them to bolt onto by default…
For jumps, i use 80wt in the Front a 60wt in the rear Part. That works pretty good.
Does it still slap?
@@SuperFastRc I've seen people say they went up to 90/100 and it still slapped on a decent size jump- idk if you can totally get rid of it- and at that point the tradeoff on general handling seems like too much lol. But I agree w/ the people saying some amount of chassis slap is good to help distribute the impact of the landing- it's just WAY too much out of the box.
What shock oil did you end up using in the front? I’m trying to fix this same issue..
70wt
@@SuperFastRc so you have 70w all the way around?
Do you do a lot of high jumps, too?
@@billplaisance6387 70 in front 60 in rear
@@SuperFastRc really? Heavier oil in the front? How come? Just curious.
It's 60wt out of the box for the v2, I put 70 wt on the 4 that change noting except less control on hard terrains..
They must have made a running change because mine came with 30wt out of the box
Could you put a link to the shock oil you used?
Yes, i use exclusively TLR oils due to the color code they use helps me remember what oil i put in the shocks when i rebuild.
TEAM LOSI RACING Shock Oil, 6Pk, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 2oz, TLR74021 www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFCVDUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8BM9D53ASKS18BGFQWA2
I put shock towers works perrrrfect
M2C might be working on something that will really add to Tuning Options 🤔🤫🤫
I put m2c arrma 6s pistons and vg racing springs and it completely changed the truck.
Proline makes maxx shock pricey at over 200 but should fix all your problems 😉
50wt on all four with GPM gold springs might be a good combo.
I can confirm that islets good but better with 60 and all gpm
I did 80 in my maxx, made a big difference!
Quick question. Have you made any adjustments to your rear shocks, since the front and rear are all the same lengths? I saw the following video and was curious as to your thoughts, if you don't mind me asking here. Thanks in advance for your time and willingness to reflect. ua-cam.com/video/j7iqoc4Xhng/v-deo.html
Nah, truck was sold shortly after this video - just not that exciting of a platform for me. I have since picked up a new stampede 4x4 vxl and it is a much more enjoyable truck
Shit I went 80w
The maxx lacks suspension travel for a monster truck. It would be better to replace the bottom shock ends with the longer rpm ones, u will gain more travel, shocks will work better to soften the landings. Someone posted a video showing the difference. But ofcorse more travel means it will not take turns as good, but it’s a monster truck in the end
I don’t think adding longer rod ends would help the travel. It would just raise the rear ride height. The shocks stroke will still be the same i believe. Spoiler the oil change really helps
A longer shock end is not going to give you more travel . Its just going to give you more droop . The stroke does not change with a longer eyelet . If you want more stroke just unthread the stock eyelet about 3 turns . you will then get more stroke and more droop . But its not going to help .
@@SuperFastRc stock, the chassis bottoms out early with much more left in the shock, with the longer rod ends it will increase the overall suspension travel And it will fully utilize the shock stroke on up travel giving u better dampening on landings. Ride height can be changed with the collar to maintain it as u like, but You will get much more droop to help soak up the bumps. You can check the video posted by “ tp-parts rc xtreme” to get an idea of what I’m talking about.
ua-cam.com/video/noMWy02q_fQ/v-deo.html
Increasing shock weight helps to an extent until it gets too stiff. Overall the maxx lacks suspension travel for a monster truck.
@@AbdullaRais92 Do you have a part number for this?
@@SuperFastRc “rpm 80512”and “Trx-5347” for the hollow balls if u do not want to remove ur stock ones of the rod end.
Hi I’m first
You don't have a clue how to build shocks my friend....🤣🤮
@@6fiddy309 🤣🤣🤣 good one