3d Printing TPU For Beginners! (Siraya Tech Flex 85A)
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- Опубліковано 9 лют 2025
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In today's video, we take a look at Siraya Tech's first line of filament which happens to be an 85A TPU. I need to make a functional part and this ended up being the perfect filament for it. Well, go over what is needed to print with this filament, and design a simple part that we print using it.
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Also use the slicer setting “Avoid crossing perimeter” This helps with the stringing as it stays within the part.
The shot of the Ender 3 with one reel above and the other below reminds me of the film projectors they used when I was in high school.
I've made almost this is exact same part, but with the goal of screwing it to the wall, so there was a hole in the middle. The friction fit of the baby gate lost to my kids running into the gate to knock it over 😂
I came up with the same solution, but about 13 years ago
I think you need to print some wooden spoons
My experience with 85a tpu so far is that you want longer than usual retractions at a slower (un) retract speed. I usually print with 0,8mm at 45mm/s retractions, this works for me for all extruder and hotend combos i have. These are lgx lite, lgx lite based with spring tension, galileo 2 based extruder, vzbot extruder and orbiter 2. Hotends were rapido, rapido uhf, dragon hf, dragon uhf.
With tpu 85a i increased retraction to 1,5mm at 30mm/s retract and 25mm/s unretract. I also found it to be extremely important to have pressure advance or linear advance, better too little like for rigid filaments than no value. My experience is that you need about 10 times the value as for rigid filaments, in my case 0,4 instead 0,04 on the galileo 2. I also left spring tension at a normal setting, the lgx lite at the second, tighter setting.
The lgx lite, custom lgx lite and galileo 2 handled the tpu by far the best, perfect prints at more than 100mm/s were no problem, nearly no slippage due to the good amount of tension and grip of the filament. The orbiter 2 was not as good, there was some buckling at the entry of the metal insert in the extruder, but it handled 80mm/s fine. What really disappointed me was the vzbot extruder, the helical gears had more grip on rigid filaments, but the angle of the teeth allowed the filament to twist itself out of the extruder, resulting in underextrusion. The feed path was good, but it couldn't get a good hold on the filament, so i cant recommend it for softer than 90a tpu unless you are fine with conservative 40 to 50mm/s.
Nevertheless the galileo 2 with 100mm/s for all features besides first layer produced the most perfect 200% cali dragon i have in my collection, not even a bit pf stringing between the horns.
Another tip for tpu is to use IPA if you cant get it off the build plate, it acts as a penetrating fluid.
Great video bro. Been printing TPU for a little over a year now and still learned a bunch from it. Thanks!
Glad to hear it
My first ever tpu print was a replacement seal/washer for a dishwasher.
Another fine video Dan, thank you! I too am a fan of functional and useful parts. I have recently "reinvented" a working hinge by substituting TPU for the common solid hinge pin. By doing so, it allows for a positive engagement of a small detent modeled into the hinge plates but flexes enough to provide normal operation. ✌🏼
TPU is underrated. I have a small niche online business and all products are TPU. I bought the Siraya Texh Flex 85A on 29DEC23. I wanted to replace the very expensive NinjaFlex 85A for one of our products. The filament looked as good as NinjaFlex (minus the texture on the filament) and it stretched the same so I was optimistic. The parts printed well. They looked the same. They felt the same, with the same squishy feel. They didn't work the same. These parts need to stretch over other parts and they didn't stretch quite enough.
TPU is like that. It's an art form. For very impact resistant structural parts, any 95A TPU will work well. For critical parts that need specific physical properties, I select a likely TPU based on durometer and design the part geometry to work properly with that particular TPU. Do not expect to be able to substitute one brand for another with the same durometer for critical applications. They're all different and the actual durometer can vary widely from one manufacturer to another.
I need to try to change the geometry of the part that didn't work with the 85A Siraya Tech to hopefully make it work. The cost difference is huge and Siraya Tech makes good products. I'd love to have a source of 85A TPU at a third of the price.
Haha ninja flex is tough to beat, I almost thought they were stopping production with the way the prices went up. I remember buying .5 kg spools for $18 at one point. Now they are absolutely ridiculous. I have been looking for a substitute ever since. This looks pretty promising for general use. I was also looking at the sainsmart 87A, but I think I'll give this a go after reading your comment. No print farm or specific products for me, I just want something that generally resembles ninjaflex at a fraction of the cost
Tpu is insane, I made some bump stops for the rear suspension of my car, between the two they they have to take impact forces of 500kg, they are completely unharmed. Best material full stop
@@dietznutz1 - I have a small business and all of our products are 3D printed in TPU - great interlayer bonding and very impact resistant. A couple of days ago I was working on my motorcycle and a cheap clip nut cross threaded, seized, and broke. I fired up FreeCAD and designed a wedge shaped nut block that held a *real* captive M5 stainless nut with proper threads and 3D printed a couple of them in TPU. The front entrance was deeply chamfered to properly direct any off axis machine screw when trying to align the three parts that are being mounted and a long shaft below that ensured the screw enters the nut threads on axis to prevent cross threading. Was that so difficult, BMW?
I LOVE being able to quickly CAD and 3D print any parts I need. I'm looking forward to consumer 3D metal printers.
@@dietznutz1can you send STL file?
@howl-hollowaim no they are only for my car, wouldn't work for any other car
As a dad, I feel this. Thanks for the video
My roof downspouts drain the water out of extensions that carry the water away from the house. The lower elbows were always getting bent as lawnmowers, dogs and kids kicked them around. I printed those lower elbows out of TPE 85A and that solved the issue. That bit of flex solved most issues.
That’s awesome. That’s a fantastic application. No issues from UV?
@@ModBotArmy I don't know yet. They've only been on for two summers, but so far so good. I print a lot of outdoor stuff, and I can tell you PLA is horrible. I moved to ASA and all is well for my rigid work. So it will be interesting to see how the TPE holds up.
Just picked up a Qidi Q1 Pro and some TPU. This video gave me some good tips before I attempted my first tpu print! Thanks!
Really cool to see you still using that printer with the NG!
The Micro Swiss NG was my first "major" upgrade for my ender 5 pro. I love that toolhead; It's been fantastic for printing TPU (and whatever else i throw at it). My only complaint is that it can be tricky to load a new filament, takes a bit of fiddling sometimes.
Good video. I like the clean look of the studio. Keep up the good work.
I’ve printed with TPU quite often with my smooth PEI surface. Your warning about too much adhesion is probably wise, as the parts stick rather strongly to the surface. However, I’ve had a lot of success with a light coating of Aquanet.
I use baby chalk powder on smooth PEI. Also matches the theme of this video.
I have a pei build plate that only has the film on one side, and I've had good results printing TPU on the bare metal side with a very thin layer of glue stick. I have a piece of paper towel that's saturated with the glue, and occasionally put a few drops of water on the build plate and use the paper towel to reapply the thin film of coating.
The only downside is remembering to change the z offset if you have an inductive probe.
Thanks I made the mistake of ripping my PEI.. will print on texture sheet next time
My best prints with TPU have come at temps on the high end and even above your recommended temps. 228 is about the coldest I have run out of my 2 Artillery, my MK4 and my Bambu printers. I mostly use 95A Matterhacker Build TPU or Sainsmart, and occasionally Amazon Basics. My bed is as low as room temp. My retractions are preset in the slicers (Orca, Prusa or Bambu).
I will have to try some of their fdm filament. I find the need for softer filaments more often. I once tried an experimental filament sample that was somewhere around shore 00-40. I was only able to print it with a flexion extruder (not manufactured anymore). I feel shore A 50-65 works very well for bumpers, gaskets, seal, and bushings.
I like TPU as a material, and I wish we had more rigid TPU options. I have a spool of 98A, and it’s been pretty good for some functional parts where toughness and dimensional stability in moderately high temperatures (like the inside of a car) were needed.
Even so, 98A is still too flexible for some parts that I’d like to make. In essence, I’d like something closer to the rigidity of PETG, that’s fairly easy to print, that doesn’t warp like ABS and Nylon, that can be used in a very warm environment, and that doesn’t require a very high nozzle temperature.
I’ve thought of trying the ninjatek armadillo material, but the cost per gram is a bit rich for my blood.
Tried my first tpu print the other day, other than overhang issues just loaded and was on my way. It was probably one of my best prints with a new material ever. I'm struggling to find a use for such a hard material though. Edit: should mention this is out of the box 85A siraya.
Struggling to find a use is what 3d printing is all about!
Funny I just started with tpu and it quite possibly is my favourite filament
If you really want to get the full "dad experience" find the hardest filament you can. Print off some small leggo blocks and barbie shoes. Have someone scatter them randomly between your bedroom and the bathroom but not tell you. then get up in the middle of the night and let the fun begin. It's a great game and you'll have the foot wounds that last a lifetime to keep the memories alive. 😂😂😂
Unrelated to the actual TPU part, but watch out for Jackson figuring out how to operate the gate mechanism itself, or push the gate open with enough force to override the latch. That is how my son actually got through the baby gate last year long before he could climb over it.
Great content. I just got my first roll of TPU (had been printing exclusively with PLA+). Wondering about the safety of printing TPU. Does it have a smell? Is breathing the air near the printer bad for you? Thanks. 😊
Does tpu release toxic fumes while printing?? Ive heard some stories but cant find a solid source about this.
will this 85a filament work correctly with stock extruder tension on a p1s?
95A is the only TPU type that I have tried. And it’s also the most easy 🤣
What did you say was the softest level of tpu? 95a?
What about for outdoor applications? Do you think this Siraya Tech TPU would hold up to sun and other outdoor exposure?
Be careful to fully engage the handle lock on this model, I got super scared once when my daughter figured out how to raise the handle to swing the door open and was about to walk down the stairs 😱. I was engaging the gray lock everytime from that point on
Thank you what was retraction? Wondering higher number is more retraction?need help
Can TPU be used on the Ender3 v2 printed surface? It's all I have apart from BuildTak which is not compatible with TPU. Congrats on having a child. He will be 3d printing with some hightech stuff when he gets older.
If I may, why is your outer wall speed faster than the inner walls?
Thats why I love my Bambu. I just put in the 0.6mm hardend steel nozzle and it prints Beautifully, if tried
Do you have a link to that build plate?
I also have the NG DD set up, I’m getting severe oozing between travel distances which causes a wipe on the next body the nozzle gets to. Any suggestions?
Elephants foot compensation is a thing in Bambu studio and Orca Slicer…
Please review the Cartographer from siboor, wanted to see the comparison with Beancon3D.
When I print more then 1 part I use sequential printing. No stringing between parts ........
My functional prints so far have all been printer parts. Don't buy an Ender 3 Max Neo. It's a nightmare. I had to make 10+ different parts to get this machine to print well but at least now it prints well and reliably... I just throw gcode at it press print, walk away & come back when it's done. It's not an Ender 3 anymore at this point only the frame steppers and belts/wiring are left from the original.
I dont think ur 1yo son is climbing up the stairs any time soon 😅
Gulgowski Dam
I'm debating running tpu through my k1 max lol
You might be able to get away with something like 95A but since it only has one tension I have my doubts about going with softer TPUs
Garcia Betty Garcia Kimberly Harris Paul
Lewis Karen Martin James Hernandez Barbara
Imagine if you shared your cura settings in this! To help ppl get the flow, temp, speed, etc all correct. Imagine that!
Imagine coming to a free video and attacking the creator over an oversight vs just asking what the settings are. Imagine that!
Baumbach Stream
Margie Land
Moore Elizabeth Jones Amy Miller Sharon
2nd!
""slow and steady"" people running 300+ on the X1C 🤐
Kuhn Ranch
R u assigned your baby a genderrrr!!!!?
So brave.
?
wut.. It's a baby.
@@brandonakey6616 I think buddy is confused
while technically correct, you are printing a "functional" part, I still feel completely lead astray by the title and 1 minute into the video no long want to be watching it, and stopped
I’m not sure what to say? The definition I’ve got for functional is “designed to be practical and useful” which is exactly what it is. 🤷♂️
I have problems with UA-camrs creating titles that are completely unrelated to the video, however in this case I am unsure how you were "lead astray".
@@phazonruler3000 I changed the title to 3d printing tpu for beginners because I do feel it covers a lot of the requirements but I always do my best to not lead people on with non matching titles to content.
No worries man. The internet is full of useless tools...I usually get rid of them in my toolbox because they serve zero useful purpose.
This guy's is clearly angry at the world and needs something to complain about. If I click on a video....and don't like the content...I simply do not watch it. I do not kick the content curator because I don't like the work he put in....I realize I am too lazy to start my own channel and "show the world how my title should align perfectly with the content of the video."
Brush it off and ignore this garbage. Nice video. Nice work. Don't change. You have 100s o 1000s of subscribers that contrast this negative and non-contributing trash.
@@ModBotArmy 'TPU For Babies' would have been more suitable 😁
Dan, it's good and honest video, what you made is way more useful than the typical gonks and trinkets which usually get printed. You're showing how some items can be incredibly easy to design and print and get a job done that without a 3D printer would be difficult or impossible to make. Congratulations on the move and your growing family. Everyone will tell you how fast your son will grow up, it's true mate, believe it. If you think 3D printers have grown fast over the last 10 years your son will sure surpass that.