How To Add Outside Light On Concrete Block Wall By Door ~ THE RIGHT WAY!
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- Опубліковано 6 лис 2021
- Looking to add an outside "exterior" wall light or security motion activated light next to a door on a concrete block wall? If so, then this well explained, step by step video should prove helpful. DIY electrical wiring and repair, how to properly wire light fixtures. Several wiring methods can be used, I explain three and show one. Constant 120V power (Neutral & Hot) must be present in the electrical box you plan on tapping into, and you also need to make sure the line you're tapping into isn't already overloaded. Enjoy!
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Thanks for another terrific how to video! This will save a lot of people time and money!
You're welcome! Glad you enjoyed the video!
The Legend himself :0
Excellent tutorial, precise in its detail and rationale.
great video - love the creative and logical approach. While all jobs are different, this is a helpful introductory guide to learn how to creatively approach wire fishing. Thanks !
Glad you enjoyed it!
Although I live in a wooden framed home, it was still quite interesting to see the process, as one never knows when those skills may be needed one day! Cheers from Vancouver Canada.
Glad you enjoyed the video Richard! Be sure to check out my other videos and share. Thanks
@@electronicsNmore Oh don’t worry, I’ve been along time viewer (and random harasser lol) keep the the great videos!
You are very brave to do this, a lot of people would have ran surface mounted EMT instead. I guess that would have been the last resort for this installation.
Great tips on this video!
I wanted the installation to look like it was always there. As you said, I used 1/2" EMT in the past on the outside of the block wall, along with an LB and weatherproof box. If the cores were poured, then I would've drilled through both sides of the block so I would be able to send the wire down between the drywall and concrete block.
@@electronicsNmore Yes, the finished job looked great. Having the proper tools such as the inspection camera made it easier to complete.
Another fantastic "How To" video eNm! 👍👍👏👏😉😉
Good Work.Thanks Electric 🚹.
Thanks Ed!
OUTSTANDING! Hope Mine Will Be Smooth Like Yours 👍
I've never seen retrofit wiring in hollow block, thanks.
Usually you'll drill through both sides of the block and feed the wire between the block and drywall, this method is the best because there's no risk of damaging the wire with a screw through the sheetrock after installation. Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much 👏 great video 👍
You're welcome Gilberto! Glad you enjoyed it. Be sure to share.
Sinker beats using a nut and the magnet is an awsome pinpint locating fix for an issue I am having . Thank you
I've use nuts in the past and they have a tendency to hang up, the smooth egg sinker very rarely gets hung up. I very rarely use my stud finder, just that magnet. Thanks for watching!
good info
Thank you for taking the time to make this video, it was extremely informative!! I just had a couple of questions if you don't mind me asking:
** In the video it looks like the outdoor fixture is being installed under a covered entry way....where i would like to install a outdoor light fixture (my house is cinder block on bottom and vinyl siding starting 1/2 way up) the only covering/overhang are the eaves/soffit....ALSO it would be wired for use with two 3 way switches...would using the same round metal box for the light that you used be ok ( I think it would be exposed to rain more so than yours)?
** I really like how you buried the light box in the wall..very clean looking! I would like to do the same technique to install a box for the light switch as well...I just have a plain old cinder block on the inside, unfinished...could you please tell me what metal box would be ok to use in this instance?
Thank you much for your time and help!
very nice video omg
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video . The only thing missing was your cute assistant Amy . She may have had another bushing :)
:-)
3:29 You should test with the power on first, then switch it off and test it. That will verify that the meter works and that the ground wire is actually grounded. You also need to test that neutral connection. Just because the hot wires are shut off does not mean that neutral can't be energized via a multi-wire branch circuit or miswired neutral.
Bar meters are extremely reliable, I've never seen one fail. For a DMM, or other tester, I agree, verify the tester works before using it. You cannot test the neutral wires for 120V to ground unless you separate the white wires. As long as the wires are connected to neutral, the voltage will be zero.
@@electronicsNmore Even with this circuit off, when you separate the neutral wires, one of them can become hot if the neutral is shared with another circuit.
@@jaynecobb3701 He already knows that "As long as the wires are connected to neutral, the voltage will be zero."
@@illestofdemall13 You can get electrocuted by assuming that a white wire is connected to neutral and will not be hot. Been there, done that. You should not assume that the wiring was installed properly. You can't assume the white wires will not be hot. You have to test them.
@@jaynecobb3701 I get what you are trying to say but the video presenter already knows that and so do I. There are certain things that you pick up with experience. When all the white wires are together they are indeed neutrals (like in this video), therefore you cannot test for voltage on them because there will be zero potential between neutral and ground. You'd have to take them all apart and test each one individually.
has the switch where the box is reached it's limit (as to the number of wires) ?
No
Was there Stucco on the outside block? Can you use the same methond on block without stucco?
Yes there was stucco but that don't make a difference
@@electronicsNmore The pancake box is not waterproof. If I mount directly on cinder block no way for a tight seal. Using a surface mount box with a motion light which requires an adapter plate. No one seems to stock the correct adapter.
is there a burn mark on the left outlet?
Which outlet?
Would have used 14/2 wire. Bends a lot easier. I always used a wire with a ring on end and used waxed string with a lead weight to fish pull string down a wall. Wow saw you use the great Square D wiggey tester that heard they stopped making . Used them a lot back in the 1970 & 80's. Found the Ideal Voltron better because it could test fuses & continuity. Was taught to NEVER wear any rings or metal watch bands while working even if power is off. Had a guy loose a finger while he jumped off a truck and ring got hung up. If luminare is mounted on outside of building NEC code mandates that you seal wire so condensation will never build up with difference of temperatures.
I had a roll of 12-2UF on hand, so I used it. Much better than spending more money unnecessarily. If I reach inside an electrical box or panel, the watch comes off. Yes, better to not wear any metal. The rubber bushing did a fine job sealing around the wire inside the hole drilled. Thanks for watching
@@electronicsNmore At an IAEI continuing education class ( need 8 hours a year to renew electric license ) they told us that type NM ( romex ) is not allowed to feed an outdoor luminare due to its not rated for damp location. Somebody gave me some old UF cable. Fun to skin on coldest day of winter. Now retired after 50 very enjoyable years as a sparky. Never got to use the plastic connector like you used. Old school would have to chisel out block to get a romex connector to fit. 99% of my work was industrial settings. 40 years ago rewired a few old houses and a nice size manson that even with all gas appliances & heat installed 3 circuit breaker panels and 80 circuit breakers. Owner was a gadget nut. Nice vid.
That is cinder block
Who tf has emt inside the drywall in their home!?
Who? Millions of homes. LOL
@@electronicsNmore Never once come across that in the mid atlantic. Why is it used, what is the purpose of the code requiring it?