Took awhile to put that together. Find cool sound that fits what I wanna shoot and "borrow" it. Then set up the shots to match what the prototype was doing when I "borrowed" the sound. I wished the DCC sound would have a wireless transmitter, and then a Feller could pump that into a P.A. with some giddy up to it, and then really "feel" the sound. Could be my next $400 idea (ya know...after taxes :-)
The pace is just fine. Doesn't make me jump when you start talking or fall asleep when you are demonstrating a procedure. The layout demonstration is much appreciated. Thanks for sharing. 🙈🙉🙉🙊🇺🇲 10:24
This is some time after your original post, but so glad I found this video. I am 51 and just getting back into the hobby. I have a ho locomotive display that sat next to my grandfather's chair before he passed when I was in my early teens. Long story shortened. I am going to restore the display and also wanted to bring the little engine back to service and could not identify it. Thank you for the video. I now know exactly what it is.
I swear that Loco horn you played made this thing feel haunted! Wicked video! I wish they still ran these types of trains, hearing that thing in distance at night would be awesome!
Thank you for this! I have a Tyco/Mantua that I've owned since I was a kid and it needs some attention to get going my 9yr old loves it and wants to see it running.
@Classic Model Trains Well I'm closer to running it but I'm stuck, the motor works great when I run jumpers to the brushes but won't run on the track? I have continuity from the tender and engine wheels to the brushes. I'm stumped any ideas?
It may not be much of a mechanical issue but the timing if your valve gear is off. I noticed this on two of my engines last night when I was wondering why the valve gear didn't look quite right when they were running. The eccentric crank should be facing 90° upwards with the connecting rods at the bottom of their rotation. I carefully rotated them with a pair of needle nose pliers until they were right again.
Great looking set. Great rundown on the cleaning and whatnot. I didn't know that you need the tender to run the circuit. I learned something today. Thanks...
@@classicmodeltrains can you do a story of all the mammoth of the rails sets,. And which do you feel had the best engine and last did any of those sets have one of a kind cars. Or rare cars. Thanks Dave.
@@DavidSmith-rc7hs . Yup that's the plan..There were 4 different sets that were called "mammoth off the rails". I showcased one of them in my " A brief history of the chessie steamers" video.
well at least this gives me some idea for a G scale kitbash of two 4-6-0 ten wheeler locomotives into a 2-8-2 Mikado (using the Bachmann polar Express train set as a base).
Super. That is some video of your Mikado, especially the wheel slip part. Trivia: The Mikado was called the McArthur (Spelling?) during the war. Funny that you should show two streamlined cupola cabooses together, because my next project is to cut two of them straight down from the cupola to the underframe, trade the body ends, and glue them back together as one very short streamlined cupola caboose, and one very long streamlined cupola caboose, maybe with six or eight wheel trucks. Hello again from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
Thanks!! Just now cleaning and repainting a TYCO 4 6 2. Essentially the same operation. This was a great resource for my work!! I want to get a Tyco Mikado now!!
Thanks again Ron! I just picked up a 208c Santa Fe Mikado on Goodwill. Crossing fingers it is as intact as it looks. Again appreciate the tear down videos! Hope your staying cool!
Hello EC, great job on scoring a Mikado off goodwill. I hope they package it well for you. Been high 90's to 100's here for a couple weeks. Hard to get work done. Time to "summer" higher up in the mountains :-)
@@classicmodeltrains Yes agreed 90s here sold for last two weeks. I also hope they package it well. It’s a crap shoot. The last batch of trains were wrapped fantastically but is not always the case, but have not had really anything damaged as yet, not like your poor GP9. Again all the best!
Much appreciated! The practice I've had over the last 6 months of making video's does seem to be paying off. I see you've been watching them from the beginning. I appreciated the comments you have left. :-)
Awesome video. With my Tyco/Mantua pacific I shaved out the front shields and put air pumps on the deck. New bell and some added details. These engines are great for super detailing. The Pacific is modeled after a B&O Class P7.
Thank You Love your channel and vintage HO !! Conductive lube works great on axels and tender trucks also dielectric grease at truck mount pivot!!! Just a thought that actually works well!!! Happy Easter I Say!!!
William, Thanks for the kind comment!! I've kicked around the idea of using some dielectric grease. I haven't had any problems with the Labelle 108 light oil I've been using so far. Happy Easter to you to Sir!!
Your videos are absolutely awesome! Seen em all at least twice there great love your train layout and collection your shelving is excellent as well how you have it all displayed is perfect! Can you do a tour video! Anyway keep the excellent train videos coming my friend!!
Hello Ron's Trains. Thanks once again for your nice words on my video's. Thank you for supporting the channel like you do. I'm just finishing up a video right now. I believe the next vid I do Will be a tour video. Take Care Friend :-)
@@classicmodeltrains awesome I'll look forward to that video I always enjoy the tour videos I'm sure alot of other modelers enjoy those as well great channel nice work my friend!
Good idea adding weight to the tender. I've run one of these for decades and tender pickup and tender derailments are its Achilles heel. I think a lot of the problem is that the tender isn't as heavy when they switched from the diecast to the plastic body sometime in the 60's (late 50s?). Mine is currently torn apart awaiting conversion to a Berkshire. I love those early Tyco cabeese with the wire handrails. Much classier than the later plastic ones.
Hello Greg, Thanks for commenting. Yup a little weight makes them tenders work a lot better. I agree the older tyco cabooses do look a lot classier. Good luck on your Berk conversion :-)
The Mikado steam engines that the Pennsylvania Railroad had were called lollipops for some reason. Just like the big Pennsylvania decoupage for called hippos
Very nice and informative video. Am brand new to the hobby and enjoying it. Just purchased this same engine and tender, my first engine. A few concerns: 1. The wire lead from the engine to the tender is disconnected and I have no idea where it connects. The front coupler is on the tender but there is no screw or attachment on the tender that I can find for the wire lead coming from the engine, to attach it to the tender. 2. The rear tender coupler is missing so there is no way to connect any cars to the rear of the tender. Any advice will be truly appreciated.
Hello Randall, reach out to me on my Facebook fan page or my email. I can send you pictures to help out with your questions. Contact info in the description of all my videos
Hey Ron I have a rare tyco mantua Union Pacific 2-8-2 no 917 I did some cosmetic work on it and it looks beautiful and it runs like a boss a 1960s train with a can motor this set with a Union Pacific 2-8-2 is uncatalogued and there were only 2 made
Ron, question for you. I have a Mantua 2-8-0 that is not tender driven, but has the motor mounted in the boiler like the Tyco Pacifics and Mikados. It came with the a Vandy tender. My questions is if you have see one of these or if you have one and how to get the weight out of the boiler? It has the Chattanooga boiler shell and cab but it has been modified to allow for the standard motor fro the Pacifics or Tyco steam locomotives. Just thought I would ask. The instructions out on HO Seeker don’t really show the hows to disassembly nor can I find any good videos on it. Thank again and all the best!
Hello Erick. Lucky you to have a nice Consolidation powered that way!! I have not come across one. I would assume pull the boiler cover off and slide it out the front? or a small screw is hidden that's holding it in?
@@classicmodeltrains Sadly not the case it seems like it would slide out the front but mine is wedged in tight. Oh well worked around it and repainted the front of boiler after making some minor repairs. Motor runs well after cleaning as does the drive train gearing and drive wheels. Decals for Soo Line #456 sealant and reassembly.
2 years late to this video but thought I'd add one interesting tidbit of info. This was modeled off of Atlanta and West Point #430, which was a heavily upgraded and final version of the USRA mikado. The prototype engine is rather obscure which is why most seem to assume this is a fantasy design. Strangely no versions ever produced gave the engine its original markings and the Mantua casting is the model ever made of this engine.
Ive heard Mantua's steamers were modeled off of what was local to there region back in the day. All there big steamers seem to have the exact same molded boiler no matter what the wheel arrangement is.
What size/ diameter fuel line did you use for that coupler? Adding that as a spacer is a great idea. Also, I love the sounds that model engine makes! Beautiful! Ok, I know dubbing in the real thing is "cheating" but I do it too! I know from experience it's a lot of editing work to dub that in and match the timing, but it really paid off and sounds great!
Hello T.A.T! fuel line is 1/16" or 1/32" can't remember. Got it at a local NAPA auto parts store from a parts guy who know's there Arse from a hole in the ground. The sounds for this one were very labor intensive to edit. I kept on getting copyright dings, so I had to come up with different idea. Thanks for the nice words about my Milli Vanilli vid ;-D
What I have been looking for for years that doesn't ever come for sale at all on eBay or anywhere is that Chessie steam set that Tyco made that had a crane and the red caboose Tyco also offered the same Chessie steam locomotive as a separate sale that came in one box with a caboose which is also extremely hard to find that never comes for sale on eBay or anywhere at all
For extra credit. You can use drivers from another locomotive to get flanges on all the drivers. The resulting locomotive will be a much better pulling locomotive. You can also find a four wheel trailing truck to make her into a Berkshire. ( like the 1225)
The original locomotives we're brass. There were bushings and bearings on every moving surface. They did a road test of one of them in Model Railroader in 1947 and they were extremely impressed by the quality and service stability of the locomotive and because it was a kit built locomotive it was easy to take apart and service. I would rather pay a little bit extra for an locomotive that has better quality Parts instead of one that has been cheapened. Good running locomotors but HO scale I prefer diecast locomotive.
I have the same loco from 1968. But over the years the tender ground attachment on the motor frame has broken off so there's nowhere to attach the ground wire. I did a decent cleaning job but still no life. Could it be because of the lack of a ground? If so how can this be rectified?
It needs the wire from the tender attached to the loco. Thats how it completes the circuit for the juice to flow. Solder it back on into it's original location.
I really never liked the Tyco design with the motor in the tender. Those are the only ones I've ever seen. Guess that's why I don't own any. I would have replaced the magnet with rare earth ones for less current draw and "creeping" ability. Now that's some realistic sounds. What kinda decoder are you using? Lol. Cheers from eastern TN
Hi ron! I’m having a strange problem with my model, whenever i have the boiler off, the chassis runs really well. But whenever i put the boiler back on, it doesn’t move at all, it tries a little bit though. The heavy weight is stopping the motor from turning the drivetrain, what do you think i should do? Any help is appreciated!
Well I'm wondering if your working on a Tyco / mantua like the one here in this video? Then I have to wonder if perhaps the valve gear is hanging up a bit in the steam chest. This kind of problem is sorta tough to diagnose with out seeing the thing. Something is hanging up with the boiler body and time and patience will lead to it's discovery
I have a 4-6-2 that is very similar. Did I see the pickup wheels are on the left side of the tender? I can get the motor to run outside the loco. I am old and shaky but just need a little advise.
My 4-6-2 is a Mantua Mikado. It is Lime Green with lettering on the tender CRESCENT LIMITED. SEEMS THAT THE WIRING MAY BE WRONG. CAN YOU HELP THIS OLD SHAKY MAN.?
Thanks for the video. I have wondered how to get a kadee to fit on a horn hook. Love the Mikado. It's beautiful.
Glad it was helpful!
Oh , man you are good ... I love the old ones ..Sometimes I cant see what you are doing and you are fast .. I know you have to get it in one video ..
Thanks! This is one of my earlier video's. I'm hoping the camera angle and lighting is better now so a guy can see what's going on better.
Wheel slip scene was superb.
Thanks
Love the SFX - especially the speed match & the wheel slip - perfect!
Took awhile to put that together. Find cool sound that fits what I wanna shoot and "borrow" it. Then set up the shots to match what the prototype was doing when I "borrowed" the sound. I wished the DCC sound would have a wireless transmitter, and then a Feller could pump that into a P.A. with some giddy up to it, and then really "feel" the sound. Could be my next $400 idea (ya know...after taxes :-)
Informative video! Nice information on the kadee coupler & the spacer. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Enjoyed this video. I have a Pennsylvania Mikado probably from 1966 or 67. I’ve had trouble getting it running well and this video will help. Thanks!
Thanks Jim. Hope you get the 'Ol Gal running again
The pace is just fine. Doesn't make me jump when you start talking or fall asleep when you are demonstrating a procedure.
The layout demonstration is much appreciated.
Thanks for sharing.
🙈🙉🙉🙊🇺🇲
10:24
Good to know!
This is some time after your original post, but so glad I found this video. I am 51 and just getting back into the hobby. I have a ho locomotive display that sat next to my grandfather's chair before he passed when I was in my early teens. Long story shortened. I am going to restore the display and also wanted to bring the little engine back to service and could not identify it. Thank you for the video. I now know exactly what it is.
Glad you are getting back into the hobby and glad I was able to help you out on your journey
The sound effects was great! The driver spin was cool too!
Glad you liked it!
I swear that Loco horn you played made this thing feel haunted! Wicked video! I wish they still ran these types of trains, hearing that thing in distance at night would be awesome!
I agree, It would be awesome to hear a steamer echoing off the hills in the evening
Very informative. I like the background you provide for the items you highlight.
Thanks Lee!
You're one of the very few i've found thay actually cares about cosmetics. God bless 🤣
Wow, thank you!
Thank you for this! I have a Tyco/Mantua that I've owned since I was a kid and it needs some attention to get going my 9yr old loves it and wants to see it running.
Your welcome. I hope you get the 'Ol girl going again
@Classic Model Trains Well I'm closer to running it but I'm stuck, the motor works great when I run jumpers to the brushes but won't run on the track? I have continuity from the tender and engine wheels to the brushes. I'm stumped any ideas?
fantastic running scene. realistic speed and coordinated sound. equal to more expensive models.
Thanks for the kind words S. L. :-)
It may not be much of a mechanical issue but the timing if your valve gear is off. I noticed this on two of my engines last night when I was wondering why the valve gear didn't look quite right when they were running. The eccentric crank should be facing 90° upwards with the connecting rods at the bottom of their rotation. I carefully rotated them with a pair of needle nose pliers until they were right again.
A few people pointed that out awhile ago and I believe I have since corrected it. Thanks for the good info and commenting :-)
Great looking set. Great rundown on the cleaning and whatnot. I didn't know that you need the tender to run the circuit. I learned something today. Thanks...
Thanks BB for you great comments on the video. :-)
Thanks BB on your great comments. Glad you liked it. :-)
Simply superb, I wish this guy would just build me a Tyco mammoth of the rails set. I would be so happy.
Hello David, Thanks for commenting. This Mikado is from my "Mammoth of the Rails" set. I do plan on showcasing that set in an upcoming video. :-)
@@classicmodeltrains can you do a story of all the mammoth of the rails sets,. And which do you feel had the best engine and last did any of those sets have one of a kind cars. Or rare cars. Thanks Dave.
@@DavidSmith-rc7hs . Yup that's the plan..There were 4 different sets that were called "mammoth off the rails". I showcased one of them in my " A brief history of the chessie steamers" video.
@@classicmodeltrains can't wait
well at least this gives me some idea for a G scale kitbash of two 4-6-0 ten wheeler locomotives into a 2-8-2 Mikado (using the Bachmann polar Express train set as a base).
Right on!
Outstanding editing. Thank you for posting.
Thank you for your kind words :-)
Super. That is some video of your Mikado, especially the wheel slip part. Trivia: The Mikado was called the McArthur (Spelling?) during the war. Funny that you should show two streamlined cupola cabooses together, because my next project is to cut two of them straight down from the cupola to the underframe, trade the body ends, and glue them back together as one very short streamlined cupola caboose, and one very long streamlined cupola caboose, maybe with six or eight wheel trucks. Hello again from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
Sounds like your gunna make a pretty cool caboose!
Thanks!! Just now cleaning and repainting a TYCO 4 6 2. Essentially the same operation. This was a great resource for my work!! I want to get a Tyco Mikado now!!
Very welcome! Yes the Pacific 4-6-2 and Mikado 2-8-2 are creatures from the same lagoon. Good luck on your hunt!!
Great video Ron. Excellent instruction.
Glad you enjoyed it
Ron. Pleasure to watch you fix and your commentary is informative, hysterical at times, but definitely not too long or boring. Nice job !
Wow thanks, glad you enjoy my Vids Sir!
Thanks again Ron! I just picked up a 208c Santa Fe Mikado on Goodwill. Crossing fingers it is as intact as it looks. Again appreciate the tear down videos! Hope your staying cool!
Hello EC, great job on scoring a Mikado off goodwill. I hope they package it well for you. Been high 90's to 100's here for a couple weeks. Hard to get work done. Time to "summer" higher up in the mountains :-)
@@classicmodeltrains Yes agreed 90s here sold for last two weeks. I also hope they package it well. It’s a crap shoot. The last batch of trains were wrapped fantastically but is not always the case, but have not had really anything damaged as yet, not like your poor GP9. Again all the best!
7:00 well I be damned. I just learned something from you, again!
Yup easy fix to convert to Kadee's
I have a lot of the old mantua steam locos like you do I have found you can learn from each other when watching these videos . Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching and commenting :-)
Very cool locomotive, Really like the consist you put together.
Thank you very much!
kudo's to the production value and editting.they just keep getting better. stay well
Much appreciated! The practice I've had over the last 6 months of making video's does seem to be paying off. I see you've been watching them from the beginning. I appreciated the comments you have left. :-)
Very nice needs an LED headlight A nice bright one
I agree!
Awesome video. With my Tyco/Mantua pacific I shaved out the front shields and put air pumps on the deck. New bell and some added details. These engines are great for super detailing. The Pacific is modeled after a B&O Class P7.
Thanks. Sounds like you got a pretty nice a Pacific in your collection :-)
Another magnificent job! It is really impressive how smooth the Pittman/Mantua motor works! It is as good as a new can motor! Kudos!
Couldn't agree more! Thanks for commenting!! :-)
Thank You Love your channel and vintage HO !! Conductive lube works great on axels and tender trucks also dielectric grease at truck mount pivot!!! Just a thought that actually works well!!! Happy Easter I Say!!!
William, Thanks for the kind comment!! I've kicked around the idea of using some dielectric grease. I haven't had any problems with the Labelle 108 light oil I've been using so far. Happy Easter to you to Sir!!
Your videos are absolutely awesome! Seen em all at least twice there great love your train layout and collection your shelving is excellent as well how you have it all displayed is perfect! Can you do a tour video! Anyway keep the excellent train videos coming my friend!!
Hello Ron's Trains. Thanks once again for your nice words on my video's. Thank you for supporting the channel like you do. I'm just finishing up a video right now. I believe the next vid I do Will be a tour video. Take Care Friend :-)
@@classicmodeltrains awesome I'll look forward to that video I always enjoy the tour videos I'm sure alot of other modelers enjoy those as well great channel nice work my friend!
J have 2-8-2 Mikado for Mehano, Slovenia, super steamlokomotive.😊
I have a few Mehano steamers. I hear they are quite nice :-)
Good idea adding weight to the tender. I've run one of these for decades and tender pickup and tender derailments are its Achilles heel. I think a lot of the problem is that the tender isn't as heavy when they switched from the diecast to the plastic body sometime in the 60's (late 50s?). Mine is currently torn apart awaiting conversion to a Berkshire.
I love those early Tyco cabeese with the wire handrails. Much classier than the later plastic ones.
Hello Greg, Thanks for commenting. Yup a little weight makes them tenders work a lot better. I agree the older tyco cabooses do look a lot classier. Good luck on your Berk conversion :-)
Very Nice Engine. When I am Goin to The Train Shows in Oct I Will Be Looking for Some Steam Engines. Love how you had The Engine Run Slowly.Nice.
Thank you very much!
Thanks. I have one just like it. I'll keep this in mind when I service it next time.
Glad to help :-)
Great job Ron, you are a real wizard when getting your locos to run you rate right up there with Harrison SMT. 👍👌😇🇺🇸🇨🇦
Thanks John! Who's Harrison SMT? ;-)
I foundthat the boiler casting for the Pacific (4-6-2) fits on the mikes frame screw holes and all.
Yup. cheaper to produce if parts can be used from one to another
Great brakedown and rebuild.
Thank you Paul!
Felicitaciones por el video,muy educativo,genial la reparación de la locomotora y quedó muy bella ,podría ser más largo el video ??
Gracias
I like the part struggling up the hill with the wheel slip
Thank you very much. I enjoy those shots also :-)
@@classicmodeltrains No problem your welcome
Great video! Love the train sound affects!
Glad you enjoyed!
YOU ARE VERY HELPFUL. THANK YOU!
I hope you have found the answer you needed for your loco repair job Jeff
The Mikado steam engines that the Pennsylvania Railroad had were called lollipops for some reason. Just like the big Pennsylvania decoupage for called hippos
cool information.
Where do you get your weights? I need more and the hobby shop I got them from closed in my town once Covid happened
Xtream, I ordered them from Amazon. 10 lb box, 1/4 oz self stick. around $40 if I remember right.
@@classicmodeltrains sweet, do you recall what you searched for to find it? Apperently sticky magnets isn't good lmao
@@Xtream__Attitude they are wheel weights. Used for balancing tires. I don’t think I can put a link into a UA-cam comment post. Hope this helps
@@classicmodeltrains ya that helps it gives me more of an idea what I'm looking for thanks :)
Very nice and informative video. Am brand new to the hobby and enjoying it. Just purchased this same engine and tender, my first engine. A few concerns:
1. The wire lead from the engine to the tender is disconnected and I have no idea where it connects. The front coupler is on the tender but there is no screw or attachment on the tender that I can find for the wire lead coming from the engine, to attach it to the tender.
2. The rear tender coupler is missing so there is no way to connect any cars to the rear of the tender. Any advice will be truly appreciated.
Hello Randall, reach out to me on my Facebook fan page or my email. I can send you pictures to help out with your questions. Contact info in the description of all my videos
Well done thanks 👍
Thanks for watching
Great video
Thanks Dave!
excellent video!!
Thank you!
Hey Ron I have a rare tyco mantua Union Pacific 2-8-2 no 917 I did some cosmetic work on it and it looks beautiful and it runs like a boss a 1960s train with a can motor this set with a Union Pacific 2-8-2 is uncatalogued and there were only 2 made
SWEEEEEET!!
@@classicmodeltrainsit’s actually a prototype I think tyco was making the Union Pacific 2-8-2 freight set they didn’t go all the way through with it
Ron, question for you. I have a Mantua 2-8-0 that is not tender driven, but has the motor mounted in the boiler like the Tyco Pacifics and Mikados. It came with the a Vandy tender. My questions is if you have see one of these or if you have one and how to get the weight out of the boiler? It has the Chattanooga boiler shell and cab but it has been modified to allow for the standard motor fro the Pacifics or Tyco steam locomotives. Just thought I would ask. The instructions out on HO Seeker don’t really show the hows to disassembly nor can I find any good videos on it. Thank again and all the best!
Hello Erick. Lucky you to have a nice Consolidation powered that way!! I have not come across one. I would assume pull the boiler cover off and slide it out the front? or a small screw is hidden that's holding it in?
@@classicmodeltrains Sadly not the case it seems like it would slide out the front but mine is wedged in tight. Oh well worked around it and repainted the front of boiler after making some minor repairs. Motor runs well after cleaning as does the drive train gearing and drive wheels. Decals for Soo Line #456 sealant and reassembly.
2 years late to this video but thought I'd add one interesting tidbit of info. This was modeled off of Atlanta and West Point #430, which was a heavily upgraded and final version of the USRA mikado. The prototype engine is rather obscure which is why most seem to assume this is a fantasy design. Strangely no versions ever produced gave the engine its original markings and the Mantua casting is the model ever made of this engine.
Ive heard Mantua's steamers were modeled off of what was local to there region back in the day. All there big steamers seem to have the exact same molded boiler no matter what the wheel arrangement is.
What size/ diameter fuel line did you use for that coupler? Adding that as a spacer is a great idea.
Also, I love the sounds that model engine makes! Beautiful! Ok, I know dubbing in the real thing is "cheating" but I do it too! I know from experience it's a lot of editing work to dub that in and match the timing, but it really paid off and sounds great!
Hello T.A.T! fuel line is 1/16" or 1/32" can't remember. Got it at a local NAPA auto parts store from a parts guy who know's there Arse from a hole in the ground. The sounds for this one were very labor intensive to edit. I kept on getting copyright dings, so I had to come up with different idea. Thanks for the nice words about my Milli Vanilli vid ;-D
What I have been looking for for years that doesn't ever come for sale at all on eBay or anywhere is that Chessie steam set that Tyco made that had a crane and the red caboose Tyco also offered the same Chessie steam locomotive as a separate sale that came in one box with a caboose which is also extremely hard to find that never comes for sale on eBay or anywhere at all
I have that exact set and am planning on doing a video shoot of it next. :-)
@@classicmodeltrains That will be awesome
For extra credit. You can use drivers from another locomotive to get flanges on all the drivers.
The resulting locomotive will be a much better pulling locomotive.
You can also find a four wheel trailing truck to make her into a Berkshire. ( like the 1225)
It would have binding issues on 18" radius w/ 4 flanged wheels but I like your trailing truck idea :-)
The original locomotives we're brass. There were bushings and bearings on every moving surface. They did a road test of one of them in Model Railroader in 1947 and they were extremely impressed by the quality and service stability of the locomotive and because it was a kit built locomotive it was easy to take apart and service. I would rather pay a little bit extra for an locomotive that has better quality Parts instead of one that has been cheapened. Good running locomotors but HO scale I prefer diecast locomotive.
Yup! I agree!
But wait, the 1959 Tyco catalog boasts all die-cast Zamac alloy with "Nylon" worm gears and Nickel-plated tires. Isn't that superior to brass?
ty
y.w.
Nice locomotive
Thank you very much!
I have the same loco from 1968. But over the years the tender ground attachment on the motor frame has broken off so there's nowhere to attach the ground wire. I did a decent cleaning job but still no life. Could it be because of the lack of a ground? If so how can this be rectified?
It needs the wire from the tender attached to the loco. Thats how it completes the circuit for the juice to flow. Solder it back on into it's original location.
@@classicmodeltrains Thanks! The place where the ground wire was attached apparently cracked off so is there another place where it can be soldered?
Those grooves are what are known as mica slots according to SMT Mainline.
I agree.
I really never liked the Tyco design with the motor in the tender. Those are the only ones I've ever seen. Guess that's why I don't own any. I would have replaced the magnet with rare earth ones for less current draw and "creeping" ability. Now that's some realistic sounds. What kinda decoder are you using? Lol. Cheers from eastern TN
I edited this video with real train sounds. Recorded the sounds off UA-cam and had the model train do the same thing
Hi ron! I’m having a strange problem with my model, whenever i have the boiler off, the chassis runs really well. But whenever i put the boiler back on, it doesn’t move at all, it tries a little bit though. The heavy weight is stopping the motor from turning the drivetrain, what do you think i should do? Any help is appreciated!
Well I'm wondering if your working on a Tyco / mantua like the one here in this video? Then I have to wonder if perhaps the valve gear is hanging up a bit in the steam chest. This kind of problem is sorta tough to diagnose with out seeing the thing. Something is hanging up with the boiler body and time and patience will lead to it's discovery
@@classicmodeltrains I am indeed working on a Mantua. I’ll be sure to check out that area. Thanks for the help!
I have a 4-6-2 mikado. could you show the correct wiring for the tender and loco?
Do you mean a Pacific? if its a tyco it has the same wiring as the Mikado
I have a 4-6-2 that is very similar. Did I see the pickup wheels are on the left side of the tender? I can get the motor to run outside the loco. I am old and shaky but just need a little advise.
Yes the tender pickups are on the left side or Firemans side
My 4-6-2 is a Mantua Mikado. It is Lime Green with lettering on the tender CRESCENT LIMITED. SEEMS THAT THE WIRING MAY BE WRONG. CAN YOU HELP THIS OLD SHAKY MAN.?
a 4-6-2 is a Pacific. I have that same one. Ive made several video's showing how to work on these