As i am working in powder coating industry too, some helpfull tips: - you should put the ground on the grid and not on the piece as it will leave you with uncoated marks. Use copper link between grid and the piece - preheating or not depend also on the powder you choose and the thickness you want
as a 8 year pwdr coater i gotta say : love the enthusiasm but never ground from your parts kids and recoating doesnt require the part to be hot . thats what the kv setting is for , first coat you spray higher kv second coat or "recoat " you spray lower kv
Preheating depends mainly (I think) on whether the powder coat compound is a thermoset or thermoplastic, and should just follow the powder manufacturer's application instructions.
I saw other guys taking apart metal toys in 40 pieces , paintstripping , sandblasting, welding, grinding, putty it, sanding and powdercoating and put it together in video,s of 10 minutes...
I've found that sanding the part with 80 grit, (specially on factory powder coated parts) before applying the paint remover makes the remover work faster. Good video!
As soon as I saw the bags, twisted, folded over and a giant zip tie I knew you got your colors from prismatic. I've had nothing but great success with their stuff. The spring looks great!!
Hey Cameron, I see you've removed the top burners from the stove. I had a similar setup some years ago. I placed some fiberglass insulation in the space left by the removed burners. Then placed a 3/4" piece of MDF on the top bolting to the metal top with some lag bolts in each corner. That made a nice work-top. The insulation and wood top also serve to insulate the stove for uniform temperatures. I never had any problems with the wood burning at 450f the old metal top took up most of the heat that made it through the insulation. The spring turned out really nice. Best of Luck, Tom
Great video except one thing. Don't ever sand blast or glass bead springs. It acts like shot peening and changes the surface tension in the spring steel and your springs will have a different height, and compress / return rate. It may not matter depending on application, but when I was going to the Dana / Spicer Tech school in Toledo Ohio, to prove the theory, our instructor took two identical new valve springs, glass beaded one, and we tested it on a valve spring tester. The glass beaded spring was almost an 1/8" (.125) taller, and lost a significant amount of pressure at the same assembled valve spring retainer height. I was surprised at the amount of change, and thought I'd possibly save someone from damaging their springs. Keep up the great content.
@@chasepalagi7675 That would make for great content for some enterprising UA-camr. Take three identical springs. Valve springs would be perfect because they're small and come with tension specs at a compressed height. Check height and tension, then glass bead one, heat one up to the temperature of powder coating, then put them all side by side and see what the free standing height is , and then what the tension is at a given compressed height. You could obviously test with two after testing, but it would be cool to see all three versions side by side. Excellent point on the possible heat damage. Now where do we find a UA-camr to carry out this experiment ........ 😀
Chase Palagi - Springs are tempered much hotter than 450 F, not to mention the spring, being as thick as it is, isn't in the oven long enough to even equalize at that heat, so most the heat is really only on the surface of the steel. In other words, it shouldn't affect the original temper.
Fascinating! I'm an avid DIY guy and always wondered if powder coating could be done at home. That finished project looks fantastic! Thanks for sharing the process.
Also a powder coater. Not actually necessary to leave the heat In The item. If you have a decent gun you can half the voltage and it goes on no problem 👌👌
Hello Cameron, Thanks for the video. Although I am an old guy, I am restoring a 1983 Honda XL 500 R. I am new to powdercoating but now I will do likewise for my rear coil spring. I use a friendly paintshop over here in Brittany, France. Thanks again.
Great video! i might add one caution not that many people would run into it. That bio degradable aircraft paint remover was still relatively new when in my Marine squadron in the mid '70's I got the task of doing some paint removal on big aircraft parts. We nicknamed that remover "whale snot" something I call it to this day. The caution is this. Do the whole thing at once. Do not apply any more than you can scrape/wash off before it starts to dry. If you get tired, do not take a "lunch break" in the middle of removal after whale snot application if you are doing lots of parts or work. If that stuff dries... It dries as it looks. All bubbled up and flakey. With the strength of steel damn near. Annnd another app of remover now, will not touch it. It will need hard core sanding and grinding off.
If the spring isn’t closed fully at each end, it’s very easy to thread heat shrink tubing onto the spring. Light oil helps get it on and protects underneath when the heat shrink is shrunk. You can get a lot of different colours and the final piece is a thick plastic coating and will last for ages.
Not a good idea. Sorry. You will end up with rusty, weak, springs covered in faded, stained and brittle rubber. Shrink wrap isn't designed for that application.
Love your idea but I just had a spring crack on me (car) and that was because of ONE tiny spot of corrosion ... so the "light oil" probably won't be enough. Better do a proper passivation first, the the oil... also, there is heat-shrink with heat-activated glue on the inside (in that case I'd drop the oil thing)...
I can't believe how easy it is to powder coat and achieve amazing results! I've been spray painting for years, i've only recently started using candy colors as i don't pay for paint so i get to try some cool colors! But i can tell you after watching that, powder coating is a picnic compared to spraying acrylic, 2pac etc. I guess your limited though with only being able to powder coat metals.
Or even on one of the diamond hooks he was using, I work as a powder coater on a paint line and our whole line is grounded and it just travels through the hooks and works perfectly fine
Does the area that the hooks set at and the gator clip not get any powder coat on it because of them being "blocked" or does it do a pretty good job of getting it still since it's "grounded/electrified"?
You can mix powdercoat with thinner and spray with a conventional gravity feed spray gun. I have even used it through an air brush. With spray gun and airbrush you can do fades and such. I mix in a plastic bottle with marbles and strain, as the powder can be susceptable for lumps.
Your video 5 years ago about powdercoating got me to start testing out coating, now I own my own powdercoating buisness 🤘 been doing it full time for the past 2.5 years
at my previous job there was a powdercoating (production)line, with pretreatment chemicals set to 60 degree C, they were dragged along for 15 minutes before getting hit with the powder. Basicly cool your part to about 45C and you are good to go. These were oiled metal parts and did an alkaline degreasing and cleaning (2 stages with rinsing and rinsing after rinsing) of the parts. Afterwards they went in an inline oven to be baked. taking material thickness and line speed into consideration it was from 75min to 110min on temps between 210 and 280C.
I had no idea that you could powder coat at home with such awesome results! Man that chrome looked great. I am going to look into getting a setup for powder coating, thanks!
When heat treating items such as springs you need to keep in mind that you will alter the spring rating of the spring steel. So try and be careful of the temp in your oven and the duration of the heat treatment.
Tip with the paint stripper: Scuff it real quick with some 80 grit and paper before applying and wrap in cling wrap to trap the fumes in and stop it drying out while it sits.
Not to be a know it all but I have over 20 years of powder coding experience. You’ve got everything down to a science as far as your painting goes in the way you loft your powder. Your painting skills are good but the next time you place your Ground clip onto the rack itself that way you don’t get a third smudge on your powder coating just a thought. I use non flux core welding wire for a mug welding to make all my hangers. It is a 1/2 mm wide. Conducts current very well. Leaves very small scars.
Use a cardboard box with about 80% of one side cut out, and with a couple slits along the top you can slide the hanging wire through to hold "whatever" in place for coating. This SAVES on nasty mess and clean up. Also, this stops any drafts in the air which cause issues. For curing try "25" minutes at 400F - it's the best combo we've tried and we paint parts for an acidic environment - if it lasts for us, it's last forever! Hope this helps save clean up and mess, and I'm sure it'll help on the end product.
Hello. im working as a powder painter in Poland (sorry for my English). I have some advice. The time that manufacturer give you as the time to the metal should be in the heat. It isn't the whole time in the heat. This is the time that the metal should have the tempeture given by manufacturer. So add some minutes more. And don't touch metal after heating bifore painting. Just blow with air from compressor. I hope i helped. Have fun with painting.
Also... sorry I forgot... DO NOT USE A RAG AS THE FINAL TOUCH. even a micro fiber rag will leave contaminants... use a clean burning bunsel or gas burner ALWAYS. Not a lighter or candle..
I wondered if the oven would cause any annealing of the spring. fairly low heat over time ( hours) can cause some annealing, but I don't know exactly what those time/temperature numbers are. If the springs don't lose their length when in use, then I would guess they didn't get any annealing. Also, are you using anything to keep from breathing any of the airborne spray? I would highly recommend doing something to create a slow-flow booth setup, using plastic sheeting or something, with an exhaust fan to a filter or to the outside. The small particles are really bad for lungs, even if in barely noticeable amounts. I just want you to stay healthy and not hurt your lungs. Thanks for the detailed video! You are very thorough and explain this all very well! And thanks for not ruining the video with repulsive disco beat music. You have saved many from going nuts from that and killing themselves, I am sure! LOL!
This was AWESOME! What a satisfying, almost mesmerizing video to watch! The results look perfect too! This was a very well made video. I watch a lot of videos, where the creator seems to leave out important information, or is vague about something. This was perfectly informative and very thorough. This really makes me want to do my own powder coating!
Hello there, I know nothing about this stuff so watched out of curiosity and was really happy to see how someone turns an ordinary thing into something special. I collect alarm boxes in the UK and resently had a go at spray painting na box orange to give it a new look. It was enjoyable and I suppose this must be too. Stay safe and take care.
as a powdercoater i would say you did pretty good. a few things i would do different but i believe you did them that way because you are at home instead of a shop so i wont nitpick. good job
Not sure if the yellow was an attempt to look like Öhlins :-) The red you made is mezmerizing and fits to Honda much better. Thumbs up for disposing the mess in responsible manner.
hey man, was interesting to watch. i do this full time but on a larger scale with a powder booth and a 4.3 metre oven, we get all sorts of work from aluminum to steel from customers, always using our sand pads 60 grit or lower for steel, and 80 or higher for ally, always trying to get that smooth finish, no scratch marks or anything like that. most common colours we get are - 7016 - grey 9005 - black and they vary from matt/semi gloss/gloss/ or satin which is similar to semi gloss, pretty satisfying watching them come out the other end, we spray from cold, the only time we pre heat anything is if its a reject from another powder coating business OR a mess up from our end. gotta say the only bad thing about powder coating is sometimes you dont want to wear a mask because it gets to hot or irritated, and you end up with different colour bogeys when you blow your nose lol, defiantly not good for you haha.
You need to heat most spring steels up to around 1400-1500f for the annealing process, most ovens max out between 500-700f. My home oven will go 550f cooking or 750/800f on a self clean cycle.
@@ryanwilson_canadaWho knows what steel it is but I'd bet it is something with .6% to .9%carbon. Probably something like 5160 and the ideal temperature for tempering most spring steels would be around 700°F That is not to say that it can be done under that temperature.
@@chasepalagi7675 yep. Tempering can start to be done at 200°C (about 400F) and it modifies the microstructure of the steel. It shouldn't be done on springs, cuz they'll probably have a plastic deformation as soon as you mount them again.
Cameron, first off I'm new to your channel and love it already. Question for you, were you worried at all about heat from the oven changing the molecular structure of the spring? In blacksmithing we temper knives after quenching to slightly soften the metal to make it strong and not so brittle. Thoughts?
not much of a concern i guess, since the spring is also powder coated from the factory. recoating with far less heat wouldn't change the properties of the material tho. but i could be wrong
If you can transfer the ovens heating elements and install them like the oven, you can make a oven any size you find best for your project by building the structure out of cement board with hinges and stops and locks. Making the baking structure collapsible and easy to stow away in a smaller space until need again. With this style of unit you can attempt much larger pieces. Often large projects go unattempted because of the restrictions to the size of oven available. Just a thought for consideration and experimentation.
Your suspension definitely needs to be serviced regularly. I'm a B rider and I service mine every season. fresh fluids and a revalve definitely make a difference and it helps keeps your parts from wearing as fast. Don't wait for your shit to start leaking to service it.
An interestnig video! How does power coated paint perform on the spring when its constantly flexing? One suggestion. When applying the paint stripper, use a tub long enough to lay the spring on its side with an 1/2" of stripper fluid in the tub. Brush the fluid on and turn the spring ever 5 minutes or so to let the stripper really dissolve all the paint off.
"toss the paint stripper in the garbage" is the responsible way of disposing it? :) Maybe taking it to the harzardous substances disposal site would entitle better to the "responsible" term :)
I worked at a big trailer place that used metal flake blasting and large powder coat ovens. Everyone was breathing in metal dust and powder. Everyone is still fine.
Cool. I powder coat on a much larger scale for a living. Only thing I hate about my job is cleaning the booth. You got it all down pat though. Good shit. You could clip the hook or the grill even instead of the spring. Also, after burning the spring you could have painted right away to ensure nothing would surface through.
Got u a sub playa, been cerakoting for couple years and looking to start laying the powder and stumbled over here. UA-cam obviously recommended given my search and gonna thank the homie cuz can’t wait see how this turns out and your previous vids. Looks good broheim
After reading most of the comments , the answer to the hook marks and touch up . You would either have to match the color with wet paint or contact your powder supplier for touch up solution which you would mix up a small quantity with your powder and do touch ups with a brush. The problem with this example is the red is a tinted clear coat so there could be a slight color difference with touch up.
12 min at 450 is usually the temperature the substrate has to achieve for full cure, so if you only left the part in for 12 min, then the substrate could not have been at 450 for that amount of time, The part might come out looking good, and might perform for your application, but the times are for the substrate temp. I've been in commercial powder coating for 10 years, and that's been the temperature specs for every powder I've sprayed.
Getting ready to start my powdercoating this week. I think I'm gonna sand down the rear shock body and clear coat it over bare aluminum , then powder my spring and shock linkage candy red and cerekote the 2 preload rings cobalt. Gonna candy red my trip clamps and rear brake bracket. cerekote my outer shock tubes , mastercylinders , fork feet , ignition/clutch covers and inner clutch cover cobalt and burnt bronze.
He does great work with coloring of the springs, but I would not heat up the springs in the stove, it could change the tempering of the steel springs, and possibly make it less durable than before. For me I would do the same process for the springs, as I would do with the metal panels of the auto body painting / re-painting, with prep work and everything, including painting with the paint gun and using body paint, with many coats of paint. Different people can have different ways of doing things, but at the end, the results speaks for itself, and the results turns out great, as long as it's been properly and carefully done, with good equipments, supplies, etc.
Step 1 - sandblast or paint strip part Step 2- power wash and phosphate Step 3- put part into oven at 400 degrees for 20 min (quickly to prevent rust) Step 4- after cool off scuff with 2000 grit sandpaper Step 5- powder coat whichever color and put into oven. Darker colors usually bake at 400 degrees for 20 min. Lighter colors at 375 for 20 min.
Cameron I hope you're doing well buddy hadn't seen you for a while just haven't tubed much lately on your channel. Regards to paint remover which is methylene chloride and the cheapest way to buy it is through furniture refinishing companies and or antique dealers. Secondly if you want to save alot of money, make a fire pit and carefully put the the metal item you want Into the Fire. Most applications will work if you do it properly. Then of course there's always sandblasting if you have the equipment. Paint, Personally I would use a two-part epoxy paint myself but go at it however you need to. Best luck!
you should mirror polish your frame, ever since 97 i think, the CR frame has looked insane, and it looks even better full polished with the subframe, powder coat the swingarm if you dont want to much polish alloy or vise versa! Powder coat your wheels one color, the spokes a different color and get the hubs nickel coated.
I used to power coat and we always uses to shot blast then use powder primer then a base coat then a second coat for the best finish also you can earth the part by clipping it to the grill. It may help to preheat the spring before powder coating
What should I powdercoat next?
Frame! Or subframe? Or bars? Or wheels??
Hubs
The rims and the hubs :D maybe also the bars ;)
all of the above ^
Frame for sure
As i am working in powder coating industry too, some helpfull tips:
- you should put the ground on the grid and not on the piece as it will leave you with uncoated marks. Use copper link between grid and the piece
- preheating or not depend also on the powder you choose and the thickness you want
How does preheat effect the thickness? Does it make it more thick?
as a 8 year pwdr coater i gotta say : love the enthusiasm but never ground from your parts kids and recoating doesnt require the part to be hot . thats what the kv setting is for , first coat you spray higher kv second coat or "recoat " you spray lower kv
Preheating depends mainly (I think) on whether the powder coat compound is a thermoset or thermoplastic, and should just follow the powder manufacturer's application instructions.
@@vadaszmate1400 no
This is like a baking show for men
Except that it's a how-to that women enjoy too.
@@combatgirl38 ok
I saw other guys taking apart metal toys in 40 pieces , paintstripping , sandblasting, welding, grinding, putty it, sanding and powdercoating and put it together in video,s of 10 minutes...
and they dont talk!
@@combatgirl38 feminist
I've found that sanding the part with 80 grit, (specially on factory powder coated parts) before applying the paint remover makes the remover work faster. Good video!
For hard to reach places on your part, you can put acetone on a sprayer and then blow it with compressed air. That will remove any oils leftover.
As soon as I saw the bags, twisted, folded over and a giant zip tie I knew you got your colors from prismatic. I've had nothing but great success with their stuff.
The spring looks great!!
Hey Cameron, I see you've removed the top burners from the stove. I had a similar setup some years ago. I placed some fiberglass insulation in the space left by the removed burners. Then placed a 3/4" piece of MDF on the top bolting to the metal top with some lag bolts in each corner. That made a nice work-top. The insulation and wood top also serve to insulate the stove for uniform temperatures. I never had any problems with the wood burning at 450f the old metal top took up most of the heat that made it through the insulation. The spring turned out really nice. Best of Luck, Tom
Great video except one thing. Don't ever sand blast or glass bead springs. It acts like shot peening and changes the surface tension in the spring steel and your springs will have a different height, and compress / return rate.
It may not matter depending on application, but when I was going to the Dana / Spicer Tech school in Toledo Ohio, to prove the theory, our instructor took two identical new valve springs, glass beaded one, and we tested it on a valve spring tester.
The glass beaded spring was almost an 1/8" (.125) taller, and lost a significant amount of pressure at the same assembled valve spring retainer height. I was surprised at the amount of change, and thought I'd possibly save someone from damaging their springs.
Keep up the great content.
I'd be more concerned with that oven destroying any heat treatment that spring had!
@@chasepalagi7675 That would make for great content for some enterprising UA-camr. Take three identical springs. Valve springs would be perfect because they're small and come with tension specs at a compressed height. Check height and tension, then glass bead one, heat one up to the temperature of powder coating, then put them all side by side and see what the free standing height is , and then what the tension is at a given compressed height. You could obviously test with two after testing, but it would be cool to see all three versions side by side. Excellent point on the possible heat damage.
Now where do we find a UA-camr to carry out this experiment ........ 😀
heat will cause the same effect
Chase Palagi - Springs are tempered much hotter than 450 F, not to mention the spring, being as thick as it is, isn't in the oven long enough to even equalize at that heat, so most the heat is really only on the surface of the steel. In other words, it shouldn't affect the original temper.
@@lsubslimed : Also let the springs slowly air cool at room temeperatures, and not accelerated cooled, lets say dipping in water.
Fascinating! I'm an avid DIY guy and always wondered if powder coating could be done at home. That finished project looks fantastic! Thanks for sharing the process.
I'm wondering if a heat gun used from a sensible distance would work almost as well as an oven and quicker i would think?
As I am a powdercoater you can powdercoater right after it comes out of the oven. For a better finished it’s best to do it right way :)
Tyler Nadort hey I have a question, is it a good idea to powder coat right after heating the part up? And at what temperature would be good
Also a powder coater. Not actually necessary to leave the heat In The item. If you have a decent gun you can half the voltage and it goes on no problem 👌👌
I coat everything hot
I do a ton of custom but mostly industrial . Just got a 10x10x30’ batch oven
I'm also a powdercoater, at our shop we coat the parts cold then put them in the oven. Usually comes out great
Hello Cameron, Thanks for the video. Although I am an old guy, I am restoring a 1983 Honda XL 500 R. I am new to powdercoating but now I will do likewise for my rear coil spring. I use a friendly paintshop over here in Brittany, France. Thanks again.
Great video! i might add one caution not that many people would run into it. That bio degradable aircraft paint remover was still relatively new when in my Marine squadron in the mid '70's I got the task of doing some paint removal on big aircraft parts. We nicknamed that remover "whale snot" something I call it to this day. The caution is this. Do the whole thing at once. Do not apply any more than you can scrape/wash off before it starts to dry. If you get tired, do not take a "lunch break" in the middle of removal after whale snot application if you are doing lots of parts or work. If that stuff dries... It dries as it looks. All bubbled up and flakey. With the strength of steel damn near. Annnd another app of remover now, will not touch it. It will need hard core sanding and grinding off.
If the spring isn’t closed fully at each end, it’s very easy to thread heat shrink tubing onto the spring. Light oil helps get it on and protects underneath when the heat shrink is shrunk. You can get a lot of different colours and the final piece is a thick plastic coating and will last for ages.
evilution great idea I'm going to give it a go
It will also trap moisture inside and rust ...
Not a good idea. Sorry. You will end up with rusty, weak, springs covered in faded, stained and brittle rubber. Shrink wrap isn't designed for that application.
If your going to do that just plasti dip them.
Love your idea but I just had a spring crack on me (car) and that was because of ONE tiny spot of corrosion ... so the "light oil" probably won't be enough. Better do a proper passivation first, the the oil... also, there is heat-shrink with heat-activated glue on the inside (in that case I'd drop the oil thing)...
restoring my 1979 KD80 and this convinced me to powder coat (black) all the original parts. very cool.
Do you still have it? Use to have one a few years ago, I loved it
Omg pleas reveal where you got the rebuild supplies, I need a piston and ring for mine but cant find it
I can't believe how easy it is to powder coat and achieve amazing results!
I've been spray painting for years, i've only recently started using candy colors
as i don't pay for paint so i get to try some cool colors!
But i can tell you after watching that, powder coating is a picnic compared
to spraying acrylic, 2pac etc.
I guess your limited though with only being able to powder coat metals.
You could have as well hooked the alligator clip to the oven grille instead of the spring.
Or even on one of the diamond hooks he was using, I work as a powder coater on a paint line and our whole line is grounded and it just travels through the hooks and works perfectly fine
Does the area that the hooks set at and the gator clip not get any powder coat on it because of them being "blocked" or does it do a pretty good job of getting it still since it's "grounded/electrified"?
@@dakotamaatman1598 There is usually a small hook shadow, but that can just be touched up with spray paint.
But he didn't, so what?
@@famousforever8556 lol hes pointing out what he could have done so he could get full coverage.. just stfu you pansy little bitch
You can mix powdercoat with thinner and spray with a conventional gravity feed spray gun. I have even used it through an air brush. With spray gun and airbrush you can do fades and such. I mix in a plastic bottle with marbles and strain, as the powder can be susceptable for lumps.
Mask and eye protection a must do.
And environment protection as well.
Your video 5 years ago about powdercoating got me to start testing out coating, now I own my own powdercoating buisness 🤘 been doing it full time for the past 2.5 years
That's crazy man! Hope it's going well
that spring looks delicious
at my previous job there was a powdercoating (production)line, with pretreatment chemicals set to 60 degree C, they were dragged along for 15 minutes before getting hit with the powder. Basicly cool your part to about 45C and you are good to go. These were oiled metal parts and did an alkaline degreasing and cleaning (2 stages with rinsing and rinsing after rinsing) of the parts. Afterwards they went in an inline oven to be baked. taking material thickness and line speed into consideration it was from 75min to 110min on temps between 210 and 280C.
I never realised this was something you could do at home. Brilliant job!
I had no idea that you could powder coat at home with such awesome results! Man that chrome looked great. I am going to look into getting a setup for powder coating, thanks!
Alternate title: How to get divorced in 3 easy steps.
When heat treating items such as springs you need to keep in mind that you will alter the spring rating of the spring steel. So try and be careful of the temp in your oven and the duration of the heat treatment.
How do you be careful when the temp range is necessary?
I was just wondering whether or not the oven got hot enough to mess with the spring steels' tempering ?
When you get done with this do a 500 so you can have all of the CR's lined up with each other
This is the third video I’m watching from your channel.
The level of detail is what got you another subscriber. Thank you 🙏
That's going to look like jewellery on your bike. Nice job.
Here qi0
Tip with the paint stripper:
Scuff it real quick with some 80 grit and paper before applying and wrap in cling wrap to trap the fumes in and stop it drying out while it sits.
This video makes me remember your really old video from like 5 years ago when you did tutorial how to powder coat engine parts. Keep it up my man!
What is that logo as your profile pic. If you made it: that is sick.
This comment reminds me of when you watched the video until the four minute mark and acted like you were there from the beginning...lol
Not to be a know it all but I have over 20 years of powder coding experience. You’ve got everything down to a science as far as your painting goes in the way you loft your powder. Your painting skills are good but the next time you place your Ground clip onto the rack itself that way you don’t get a third smudge on your powder coating just a thought. I use non flux core welding wire for a mug welding to make all my hangers. It is a 1/2 mm wide. Conducts current very well. Leaves very small scars.
Definitely my favorite cooking show!
Use a cardboard box with about 80% of one side cut out, and with a couple slits along the top you can slide the hanging wire through to hold "whatever" in place for coating. This SAVES on nasty mess and clean up. Also, this stops any drafts in the air which cause issues. For curing try "25" minutes at 400F - it's the best combo we've tried and we paint parts for an acidic environment - if it lasts for us, it's last forever!
Hope this helps save clean up and mess, and I'm sure it'll help on the end product.
Damn that chrome looks really good, I didnt expect it to look that chrome
"I didn't expect it to look that chrome" Lmaoo 😂😂
@@lordsumitsah you know what I mean 😂
Hello. im working as a powder painter in Poland (sorry for my English). I have some advice. The time that manufacturer give you as the time to the metal should be in the heat. It isn't the whole time in the heat. This is the time that the metal should have the tempeture given by manufacturer. So add some minutes more. And don't touch metal after heating bifore painting. Just blow with air from compressor. I hope i helped. Have fun with painting.
Also... sorry I forgot... DO NOT USE A RAG AS THE FINAL TOUCH. even a micro fiber rag will leave contaminants... use a clean burning bunsel or gas burner ALWAYS. Not a lighter or candle..
I wondered if the oven would cause any annealing of the spring. fairly low heat over time ( hours) can cause some annealing, but I don't know exactly what those time/temperature numbers are. If the springs don't lose their length when in use, then I would guess they didn't get any annealing.
Also, are you using anything to keep from breathing any of the airborne spray? I would highly recommend doing something to create a slow-flow booth setup, using plastic sheeting or something, with an exhaust fan to a filter or to the outside. The small particles are really bad for lungs, even if in barely noticeable amounts. I just want you to stay healthy and not hurt your lungs.
Thanks for the detailed video! You are very thorough and explain this all very well!
And thanks for not ruining the video with repulsive disco beat music. You have saved many from going nuts from that and killing themselves, I am sure! LOL!
This was AWESOME! What a satisfying, almost mesmerizing video to watch! The results look perfect too! This was a very well made video. I watch a lot of videos, where the creator seems to leave out important information, or is vague about something. This was perfectly informative and very thorough. This really makes me want to do my own powder coating!
Hello there, I know nothing about this stuff so watched out of curiosity and was really happy to see how someone turns an ordinary thing into something special. I collect alarm boxes in the UK and resently had a go at spray painting na box orange to give it a new look. It was enjoyable and I suppose this must be too.
Stay safe and take care.
What a fantastic painting, this painting looks beautiful.
First time viewer, I like your style. Simple informative and great results. Thanks for the video!
I just wanted to tell you you're an amazing person and to keep up the good work :)
Great video thank you bro as a student in industrial/aerospace painting I have found my way with powder coating and its great for the environment
Powder coat the foot pegs and triple clamps the same red color as the shock
Foot pegs would look good as that chrome color so it looks titanium
Never look like be like
I have to say I had very little interest but now I'd love to try this! highly impressive results dude! Great job!
dang i had the same reaction Eric from 'That 70's' show had when he was tossed the keys to his dads old car "BITCHIN!"
That spring color is rad. Thinking I may get a set-up now.
Will the aircraft remover remove any and all of my aircrafts?
I accidentally sprayed some in the stunt plane I was once in. I had to open my parachute.
Be careful with polish remover if you are a Polak.
Lucas LLorens. My first job as a apprentice aero engineer was paint stripping inside a fuel tank, I still remember that stuff dripping down my back!
351cleavland is 9
@@hintzofcolorconcepts omg thank you for posting this. Disaster averted
Great job! The chrome coat was impressive by itself. Love the transparent red too.
wow this guy is more baked than the spring!
Yeah, and?
as a powdercoater i would say you did pretty good. a few things i would do different but i believe you did them that way because you are at home instead of a shop so i wont nitpick. good job
Not sure if the yellow was an attempt to look like Öhlins :-)
The red you made is mezmerizing and fits to Honda much better.
Thumbs up for disposing the mess in responsible manner.
Karel Fortl Lol, yea - I caught that too. Responsible manner = garbage > landfill > watertable 🙃
Degreaser in the sink? Not sure if that is biodegradable.
hey man, was interesting to watch.
i do this full time but on a larger scale with a powder booth and a 4.3 metre oven, we get all sorts of work from aluminum to steel from customers, always using our sand pads 60 grit or lower for steel, and 80 or higher for ally, always trying to get that smooth finish, no scratch marks or anything like that.
most common colours we get are -
7016 - grey
9005 - black
and they vary from matt/semi gloss/gloss/ or satin which is similar to semi gloss, pretty satisfying watching them come out the other end, we spray from cold, the only time we pre heat anything is if its a reject from another powder coating business OR a mess up from our end.
gotta say the only bad thing about powder coating is sometimes you dont want to wear a mask because it gets to hot or irritated, and you end up with different colour bogeys when you blow your nose lol, defiantly not good for you haha.
My understanding is that it's not good to heat Springs up like that it takes the tamper out of them
mr hambuger That depends on how hot you get it, the oven heat shouldn't hurt.
You need to heat most spring steels up to around 1400-1500f for the annealing process, most ovens max out between 500-700f. My home oven will go 550f cooking or 750/800f on a self clean cycle.
@@ryanwilson_canadaWho knows what steel it is but I'd bet it is something with .6% to .9%carbon. Probably something like 5160 and the ideal temperature for tempering most spring steels would be around 700°F
That is not to say that it can be done under that temperature.
@@chasepalagi7675 yep. Tempering can start to be done at 200°C (about 400F) and it modifies the microstructure of the steel. It shouldn't be done on springs, cuz they'll probably have a plastic deformation as soon as you mount them again.
Wow, that spring is a beauty!
Wife: Finally he's not in the garage and cooks a meal in the oven.
Me: He'll yeah boy these springs will look awesome!
Awesome video. I have been considering powder coating myself but was a bit overwhelmed with the idea. Great instructional video!
Cameron, first off I'm new to your channel and love it already. Question for you, were you worried at all about heat from the oven changing the molecular structure of the spring?
In blacksmithing we temper knives after quenching to slightly soften the metal to make it strong and not so brittle.
Thoughts?
not much of a concern i guess, since the spring is also powder coated from the factory. recoating with far less heat wouldn't change the properties of the material tho. but i could be wrong
There is not enough heat for it to change that spring. The spring would have to be Red hot in order for it to change shape
That's amazing man, with minimal effort and no professional equipment
Nice job man, looks absolutely awesome! Thanks for sharing your experience with powdercoating.
Man that spring turned out sweet, i build alot of project bikes my self and just happend to come acorss your videos you just earned a subscriber.
Thanks Tony!
I hardly ever Comment on UA-cam vids, but I can't resist this one,, Very Awesome Video, great job and excellent explanation,, Keep it up,
Sweet, that came out really amazing.
Never knew you could achieve that effect with powdercoating.
Great video. Thanks 👍
Wear glasses/goggles and a respirator
I agree 1000%!!
If you can transfer the ovens heating elements and install them like the oven, you can make a oven any size you find best for your project by building the structure out of cement board with hinges and stops and locks. Making the baking structure collapsible and easy to stow away in a smaller space until need again. With this style of unit you can attempt much larger pieces. Often large projects go unattempted because of the restrictions to the size of oven available. Just a thought for consideration and experimentation.
“Majority of the paint was eaten by the stripper” lmao
I chuckled at this exact part too. LMAO
Always wondered what else people who laugh at "I just blew a tranny" find funny
This made it so much more understandable
Great video!! Speaking of suspension is it a necessary maintenance to change the oil in the shock?
GRIPTILIAN 511 only if your seal rings are leak
Your suspension definitely needs to be serviced regularly. I'm a B rider and I service mine every season. fresh fluids and a revalve definitely make a difference and it helps keeps your parts from wearing as fast. Don't wait for your shit to start leaking to service it.
An interestnig video!
How does power coated paint perform on the spring when its constantly flexing?
One suggestion.
When applying the paint stripper, use a tub long enough to lay the spring on its side with an 1/2" of stripper fluid in the tub. Brush the fluid on and turn the spring ever 5 minutes or so to let the stripper really dissolve all the paint off.
"toss the paint stripper in the garbage" is the responsible way of disposing it? :)
Maybe taking it to the harzardous substances disposal site would entitle better to the "responsible" term :)
Add vinegar then bin it
Amazing... Never thought powder coat can be this much awesome.. A pro job...
This Dude died a week later.
Yeah, no breathing protection while paint stripping nor powder coating. You only get 1 set of lungs dude.
I worked at a big trailer place that used metal flake blasting and large powder coat ovens. Everyone was breathing in metal dust and powder. Everyone is still fine.
Nice....looks like another skill I need to pick up. I know the most tedious part is the prep work for powder coating, but the end result is worth it.
Say good bye to your spring, you cant heat parts like that
Haha 500°F isn’t going to hurt anything. Heating it until it turns red at 1200° would be a diff story.
This was amazing. Simple to the point and it looks KILLER.....
Cool. I powder coat on a much larger scale for a living. Only thing I hate about my job is cleaning the booth.
You got it all down pat though. Good shit.
You could clip the hook or the grill even instead of the spring. Also, after burning the spring you could have painted right away to ensure nothing would surface through.
Got u a sub playa, been cerakoting for couple years and looking to start laying the powder and stumbled over here. UA-cam obviously recommended given my search and gonna thank the homie cuz can’t wait see how this turns out and your previous vids. Looks good broheim
At least you admitted that you put the red on. It turned out awesome and yeah it looks great!! 🙂
Excellent! Some really good, clear advice on such a sketchy subject.
Nice looking end product.
Thanks for sharing.
After reading most of the comments , the answer to the hook marks and touch up . You would either have to match the color with wet paint or contact your powder supplier for touch up solution which you would mix up a small quantity with your powder and do touch ups with a brush. The problem with this example is the red is a tinted clear coat so there could be a slight color difference with touch up.
Awesome video bro, that spring looked sweeeeet!
Great job done by Cameron Niemela 👍👍 nice and informative project with practical👍👍
Thanks for inspiration Man! That spring came out bloody nice!
12 min at 450 is usually the temperature the substrate has to achieve for full cure, so if you only left the part in for 12 min, then the substrate could not have been at 450 for that amount of time, The part might come out looking good, and might perform for your application, but the times are for the substrate temp. I've been in commercial powder coating for 10 years, and that's been the temperature specs for every powder I've sprayed.
Getting ready to start my powdercoating this week. I think I'm gonna sand down the rear shock body and clear coat it over bare aluminum , then powder my spring and shock linkage candy red and cerekote the 2 preload rings cobalt. Gonna candy red my trip clamps and rear brake bracket. cerekote my outer shock tubes , mastercylinders , fork feet , ignition/clutch covers and inner clutch cover cobalt and burnt bronze.
That looks nice. I can't believe the chrome looks that close to real chrome.
Amazing work Cameron! Very informative and exciting to watch how it's all done!
So happy to see. Thankfully.
He does great work with coloring of the springs, but I would not heat up the springs in the stove, it could change the tempering of the steel springs, and possibly make it less durable than before.
For me I would do the same process for the springs, as I would do with the metal panels of the auto body painting / re-painting, with prep work and everything, including painting with the paint gun and using body paint, with many coats of paint.
Different people can have different ways of doing things, but at the end, the results speaks for itself, and the results turns out great, as long as it's been properly and carefully done, with good equipments, supplies, etc.
Step 1 - sandblast or paint strip part
Step 2- power wash and phosphate
Step 3- put part into oven at 400 degrees for 20 min (quickly to prevent rust)
Step 4- after cool off scuff with 2000 grit sandpaper
Step 5- powder coat whichever color and put into oven. Darker colors usually bake at 400 degrees for 20 min. Lighter colors at 375 for 20 min.
This video made me want to powder coat everything and anything. From bro to bro, thank you, bro.
Those results are pretty amazing
Legit. Legit. A+ result at the end there even if the process didn’t go perfectly.
Cameron I hope you're doing well buddy hadn't seen you for a while just haven't tubed much lately on your channel.
Regards to paint remover which is methylene chloride and the cheapest way to buy it is through furniture refinishing companies and or antique dealers. Secondly if you want to save alot of money, make a fire pit and carefully put the the metal item you want Into the Fire. Most applications will work if you do it properly. Then of course there's always sandblasting if you have the equipment. Paint, Personally I would use a two-part epoxy paint myself but go at it however you need to. Best luck!
Would the heat of the oven change the heat treatment of the spring?
i never knew they made chrome powdercoat. nice work!
you should mirror polish your frame, ever since 97 i think, the CR frame has looked insane,
and it looks even better full polished with the subframe, powder coat the swingarm if
you dont want to much polish alloy or vise versa!
Powder coat your wheels one color, the spokes a different color and get the hubs nickel
coated.
Great video showing what possible when restoring old parts.
Thank you!
I used to power coat and we always uses to shot blast then use powder primer then a base coat then a second coat for the best finish also you can earth the part by clipping it to the grill. It may help to preheat the spring before powder coating
Dude that's sick. And super easy I'm definitely buying one.