I put skid steer couplers on the end of my hoses on the front of my loader . They easier to clean off before hooking up and the don't leak like the pioneer couplers do over time. And the added benefit is people wanting to borrow your attachments most folks don't have that kind of connections on their tractor. Also when folks borrow your hyd. attachments they might not be using the same hyd. fluid that your tractor has and contaminate your tractor. I was changing a buckets on a cat hoe one time and had to loosen the fittings to get it connected like you did . Thanks for sharing.
I'm in Australia but ordered online out of the US a product called an X-Boom QC Mate to squeeze flat face couplers together. It applies 270kg of force and is basically an Irwin clamp with U-shaped fittings on each end. It works brilliantly and means no more bleeding the lines. It even works in reverse if needed to disconnect fittings.
One trick I learned from an old farmer requires only a shop rag and a hammer. Wrap the male connector with the shop rag. Whack the end of the fitting with the hammer, and it will release the pressure into the rag.
I was stuck in this situation a few years back and had no tools at all. I discovered that many of the hitching pins Kubota uses fit pretty snugly into the couplers. You can then tap on the pin with what ever you have available which pushes against the inside of the coupler. In small amounts you will begin to relieve the pressure. I feel this is pretty safe too since the pin blocks any large steams of fluid too. I recently picked up a QC-Mate by XBoom Couple 3/8 and 1/2 duo jaw 12 in quick clamp which is now stored in the tractor to make things really easy.
Great, easy to remember tip. Thanks Neil. Nothing worse than being all ready to go & having to stop for a stubborn hydraulic coupler. A real smile-wiper. Another example of what a great dealer does. Feel free to open a dealership in Wisconsin’s North Woods! We’d love to have you up here.
One thing my local dealer sells are hose "end valves"- its a quarter turn ball valve with a pioneer coupler on the other end. The idea is, you disconnect whatever implement you're working with, cap the tractor end with the rubber covers, and on the implement end attach these valves- with the valve closed. Keeps the coupler that will need to be reconnected to the tractor clean and undamaged- its covered by the valve connector, and allows for a safe way to relieve pressure before trying to reconnect- point hose away from everyone, slowly crack the ball valve, close it, remove ball valve, attach to tractor. They cost something like 35 $ for a pair, if I recall correctly
Had this problem a few days ago when the loader had been off the tractor. Called my local Kubota dealer service and they were kind enough to explain the steps to loosen the coupler and relieve the pressure. It worked.
OOOHHHH PPPLLLLEEEEEAAAAASSSSEEEE!!! I grew up on a farm and when you park an implement that has a hydraulic cylinder on it you either have a pin that can be put in place (often used for road travel) that you can put in place or you block it up in the air when you detach it. But before you detach it you turn the tractor off and cycle the hydraulic valves on the tractor. This relieves the pressure in the hydraulic lines to zero. But as you correctly stated, if the implement is disconnected on a very cold fall day and you try to reattach it on a hot day their can be a bit of pressure in the hydraulic hoses. All we ever did to relieve that minor bit of pressure was to smack the nose of the male connector (the one with the exposed ball valve) onto a hard surface like the draw bar. You get a little "spurt" of oil and you can then easily connect the hydraulic line. ABSOLUTELY NO TOOLS NEEDED!!! Just try to make sure that the end of the hose and the surface your going to strike it against is dirt free. It is so incredibly FAST and EASY and NO tools are needed!!
You're correct but, you run the risk of high pressure hydraulic fluid shooting under your skin. It works, I do it too, but it wouldn't be the recommended method.
@@MessicksEquip : Well, my experience was that the manner in which you have to grip the end of the hose to strike the tip against a surface would eliminate the chance of being injected with hydraulic fluid. To have a chance of that happening you would almost have to strike the end of the hose against your own hand. I don't know about you, but my hand has never been rigid enough for that possibility. If you want to add a bit of safety to the process, after cleaning the end of the hose with a clean (mostly) rag, wrap that rag over and around the end of the hose before you strike the tip against the draw bar. It contains the little "splat" of hydraulic fluid rather well. Another point is that the threads of many of the hydraulic coupling can have that Teflon tape on them to assure against leaks. You can't constantly be loosing and tightening fittings with that tape on them and expect the tape to do it's job. You'd have to remove the fitting and re-apply new tape, making a real big mess. Just clean the tip of the hose, wrap a rag around it, and strike it against a hard surface.
Wish I had seen this a year ago. First time I disconnected my grapple I had it fully open. When I went to reconnect I could not get those fittings to couple. Loaded up the tractor and went over to Kubota dealer and he did exactly what you did, loosened the fitting, relieved the pressure, and Presto, easy connection.
Was at a county fair a few years back and there was a tractor on display with the bucket raised up. Turns out it was full of water due to a day of rain. Anyways, a kid climbs up into the seat and, you guessed it, pulls the control stick and that bucket slammed into the ground. Only the grace of God kept the other folks around the tractor from getting crushed.
Grace of God? No. More like the concepts of Darwin at play. Anybody who would walk under a bucket had already been crushed or otherwise mashed up long before this kid came along.
I have a Knipex Pliers Wrench in my tractor toolbox for just such an occasion. Easy to adjust and has parallel jaws so you almost never mar the surface or round the fastener!
Outstanding, Neil! I can only imagine the millions of tractor owners who would love to have seen this before they stomped their feet in frustration. Well done!👏👏👏
Very good demo of how to resolve that problem. However for some folks you left out a process LOL. Make sure you tighten the coupler after you release the pressure. Love your demonstrations, they are helpful to 🚜 new bees.
Ken’s Bolt On Hooks sells special decompress hydraulic wrench’s (different sizes) for hydraulic line and pioneer fittings. I just bought one. I got sprayed in the face and eyes last summer trying to decompress my loader hydraulic lines. Luckily I wear glasses, because I might have loss an eye, that hydraulic fluid sprays out like a jet when it’s under pressure. Great video and warning owners not to be under your implement when you relieve. Replaced my first loader hydraulic line this week, first thing my dealer said was release that pressure by moving loader joystick around 5 times and don’t be under loader when you take off the line.
This is another very appropriate topic and you demonstrated tractor a problem many of us encounter. I think the idea of safety glasses, thick gloves. and extreme care around hydraulic fluids, hoses and fittings is very important for all of us. Keep up the good work as your presentations are unique and useful to tractor owners.
Neil I get that when I hook my loader back up to my Grand L3240. What I usually do is to put a rag over the end of the hose and lightly hit it with a rubber hammer or if it is the female side I have a large round bar I slide in wrapped with a rag and hit it. It does the trick and I don't risk having a leak at fittings.
I done it for years with a rag and hammer for the male end, obviously away from me for safety. tapping on the pin. the odd time with the female end with a large bolt inside it. tappy tap tap..
Hi Neil, I live in Australia and have the same problem. I made a tool that slips over the coupling and welded a bolt to the top. It screws down on coupler and relives pressure Easily. You Only need to screw it down with your fingers. Only loose a little bit of oil and very safe.
It is a pretty day and I need to get back out and work, but not before saying God bless you for the right solution at the right time. Well almost right - it took me 45 minutes of trying before thinking I need to consult another problem solver. I'm far from a gear head and did not know the pressure could build up on the implement side, but I bled a teaspoon of fluid and seconds later my connection worked. Thank you very much. Thank you. Thank you!
I’ve always been taught step 1 relive pressure on the tractor side, step two, take the the coupler and jam it against the tractor to relive the pressure from it. Kinda hard to explain with words but if you jam it agains something hard it pushes the little plug at the end in and let’s the fluid spray out in a way where it’s not gonna spray at you under pressure, sure it’s messy but it’s safe and easy
That is exactly what I do. I jam the ball on the end of the male end into a hard piece of steel then retry. First always work all valves open on tractor end.
😄 I love the true to life honesty! (the boom dropping & incorrect tool) Because problems occur at inconvenient times & places way more often then when parked inside the garage! Keep up the great work! Thanks for the videos!
I get this all the time on my grapple when I leave it outside, drives me nuts. I’m surprised no one has come out with some sort of in-line relief valve for just this situation.
When you disconnect an implement like your grapple,re-couple the ends of the implement back together when its off the tractor.as the temps change and pressure in the lines increase it will tend to balance itself in the closed system thru the movement of the piston in the cylinder.There will tend to then be some forgiveness when coupling back to tractor.This is making reference to implement lock,not tractor.Also,before disconnecting implement,do not dead head implement in any one direction,leave it kinda half open or closed.
There is a clamp you can purchase to pull couplers together. Nathan on "out of the woods" has one. It is a Irwin clamp modified by Skis steer solutions. Might be something for Messick's to stock ? Skid steer Solutions has a video about them.
The tool is called a “QC Mate”, made by the company Xboom. It provides the force necessary to connect the couplers without needing to relieve the pressure at all. I highly recommend it.
Didn’t really want to bleed the lines, so I tried just wrapping gallon sized bags of ice around the hydraulic cylinders. 10 minutes later, they went on with ease! 😊
Yes that too. I have problems with my grapple out in the sun. If you dont mind getting your tractor/attachments wet, spray them down with a garden hose if you have one available. Works everytime for me and no fluid loss.
For the skid steer style couplers I use a pair (male/female) of bare (uninstalled) face couplers that have only the plastic factory dust plugs installed. Simply plug in the respective couplers and the excess pressure is immediately bled out (maybe a tablespoon or two of hydraulic fluid) around the dust plugs. I do this for both the attachment and the tractor couplers. A pair of face couplers run about $50. I suppose you could do the same for the pioneer style couplers.
How timely… this is really annoying, and at times I just give up, move the machine into a shady area and come back later. With flat face couplers you can usually press on the male end to bleed some fluid… still a major pain. I was going to look for a pressure relief block like you find on skid steers…. One push of a button and the pressure is gone.
You can talk with our team of parts technicians and they would be able to get you the info on these parts. You can call in to 800-222-3373 or use the parts diagrams available at messicks.com.
Great info Neil. No matter how I try to relieve the pressure I seem to occasionally get this problem. Typically I find that if I push in on the inside of the fitting (I call it the plunger) with a flat round pice of metal, like a punch I can relieve the pressure and quickly connect the fittings. So far so good, no leaks or damage to the fitting. My question is; what is the likelihood I will damage the fitting or implement if I continue this practice. Appreciate thoughts from viewers, good luck to all.
Don't put your finger in. Similar situation happened where a man lost his arm... trying to release pressure by pressing the ball with his finger. The oil jumped under the nail filling his hands. Later on the operation table the surgeons had no other option to amputate the arm right from the elbow.... few minutes too late the patient would have died.
can you please make a video about gear shift kubota compact tractor (b series)? kubota in my country only sell gear shift kubota but nobody make a video about it.
I use a different method. I use a 6-inch length of 1/2 inch brass rod and insert it into the female coupler, then wrap a rag around the whole thing and give the rod a tap with my toolbox-on-a-stick (hammer). It releases about a 1/4 of a teaspoon of fluid and I am good to go.
Is it possible that the pressure is built up in the lines on the grapple as well? I did this and I still cannot get them connected. I’m going to crack coupler on grapple tomorrow morning (it’s 100 degrees and the fluid is insanely hot).
Everyone with hydraulics should own a Waite Hydraulic Quick Connect Decompression Tool. There are different sizes & styles of Q.D.'s (quick disconnect fittings), so you must order the correct Waite tool to fit your own Q.D.'s. Use the right tool for the job!
This method is a LAST resort! Every machine with hydraulics should come with Xboom Coupler QC mate hand clamp. It is the safest, fastest, and easiest way to couple under pressure (Can even be used to compress coupled connectors to release the lock ring for un-coupling).
I second this. The Xboom QC mate tool is by far the best way to deal with this issue. The “Waite” tool works good to relieve the pressure but the QC mate just connects it, no need to relieve anything.
Ok those couplers do not hold pressure due to "O-Rings." Another words it metal to metal and relieving pressure will not pop O-rings in the process. True or false?
I am a complete amateur but for me it seems logical to have "manual return to tank valves" at these places/hoses/pipes. Why so much oil waste everywhere in this field of business is an unknown to me... Thanks for sharing!
Wow, how difficult would it be to add a button or lever that does this? My biggest frustration with tractors is that they marginally improve over the past (even worse) design and call it a job well done when in fact they haven't solved the whole problem. If a third party has done something like this (likely given that it's both common and obvious) someone please post a link. Thanks in advance!
Day Neil, my two pennies worth would be to make sure there is no dirt on either side of the connection before putting it together, that is wipe both male and female surfaces with a clean rag.
I just got in the habit wether it's a front or rear hydraulic quick connect to shut equipment off and relieve the pressure through the valve before disconnecting the lines, same when reconnecting them.. makes it much easier to do...
I got the opposite couplet that plugs into my lines with a screw and a bleeder hole to relieve the pressure works on tractor front end loader oh my attachments cost $60 to make
Good morning Neal. I noticed that you are wearing a UA-cam shirtsleeve tee shirt. Is it that warm in Pennsylvania ? What is that mounted on top of your roll bar? Most people never would’ve guessed to release the pressure on the hydraulic lines // system to connect your hydraulic lines. Excellent video Neal. Liked Subscribed & Shared
It would have been just as easy to jack up the loader a little bit. That also relieves the hydraulic lock of the attachment without needing to spill any oil.
@@MessicksEquip The loader frame was still in the air. There could have been some residual pressure in the system. Relieve all the pressure in the system and try again.
My recommendation would be to find a dealer you can trust and have a relationship with and buy multiple pieces of equipment so that you never have to disconnect anything from them..... ;-)
The right tool is a hammer. Tap the end of the male fitting, pushing the plunger in, releasing the fluid. Be advised you will be wearing some though...
I hate to crack the fittings to relieve pressure, and doing this several times can actually render the fitting useless as the threads wear out. I use two different methods, well three, if you count the procedure you mentioned as to working ALL of the hydraulic controls. I will sometimes use a QC Mate to squeeze the two connectors together, and this works rather well. OR, I actually made a pressure relief tool using a gutted hydraulic connector with a T-handle and bolt fabricated into it and will mate it up to the connector under pressure and turn the handle which uses the bolt to push onto the connector thus relieving pressure.
The look on your face when the loader hit the ground was epic
I put skid steer couplers on the end of my hoses on the front of my loader . They easier to clean off before hooking up and the don't leak like the pioneer couplers do over time. And the added benefit is people wanting to borrow your attachments most folks don't have that kind of connections on their tractor. Also when folks borrow your hyd. attachments they might not be using the same hyd. fluid that your tractor has and contaminate your tractor. I was changing a buckets on a cat hoe one time and had to loosen the fittings to get it connected like you did . Thanks for sharing.
I'm in Australia but ordered online out of the US a product called an X-Boom QC Mate to squeeze flat face couplers together. It applies 270kg of force and is basically an Irwin clamp with U-shaped fittings on each end. It works brilliantly and means no more bleeding the lines. It even works in reverse if needed to disconnect fittings.
Yep QC mate is awesome
I looked it up ….nice thanks guys 👍🏻🇺🇸
This is what I'm looking for! Tired of using a wrench to loosen the connection.
Thank you for the information 🙏!!!
One trick I learned from an old farmer requires only a shop rag and a hammer. Wrap the male connector with the shop rag. Whack the end of the fitting with the hammer, and it will release the pressure into the rag.
I was stuck in this situation a few years back and had no tools at all. I discovered that many of the hitching pins Kubota uses fit pretty snugly into the couplers. You can then tap on the pin with what ever you have available which pushes against the inside of the coupler. In small amounts you will begin to relieve the pressure. I feel this is pretty safe too since the pin blocks any large steams of fluid too.
I recently picked up a QC-Mate by XBoom Couple 3/8 and 1/2 duo jaw 12 in quick clamp which is now stored in the tractor to make things really easy.
Great, easy to remember tip. Thanks Neil. Nothing worse than being all ready to go & having to stop for a stubborn hydraulic coupler. A real smile-wiper. Another example of what a great dealer does. Feel free to open a dealership in Wisconsin’s North Woods! We’d love to have you up here.
One thing my local dealer sells are hose "end valves"- its a quarter turn ball valve with a pioneer coupler on the other end. The idea is, you disconnect whatever implement you're working with, cap the tractor end with the rubber covers, and on the implement end attach these valves- with the valve closed.
Keeps the coupler that will need to be reconnected to the tractor clean and undamaged- its covered by the valve connector, and allows for a safe way to relieve pressure before trying to reconnect- point hose away from everyone, slowly crack the ball valve, close it, remove ball valve, attach to tractor.
They cost something like 35 $ for a pair, if I recall correctly
Had this problem a few days ago when the loader had been off the tractor. Called my local Kubota dealer service and they were kind enough to explain the steps to loosen the coupler and relieve the pressure. It worked.
The “Waite decompression tool” from Bolt on Hooks is THE answer. It is a piece of cake to relieve the pressure with no fuss or mess, safely.
Beat me to it. Get one from Kenny they’re awesome
TOTALLY agree! Tim in northern TN
No longer available
OOOHHHH PPPLLLLEEEEEAAAAASSSSEEEE!!! I grew up on a farm and when you park an implement that has a hydraulic cylinder on it you either have a pin that can be put in place (often used for road travel) that you can put in place or you block it up in the air when you detach it. But before you detach it you turn the tractor off and cycle the hydraulic valves on the tractor. This relieves the pressure in the hydraulic lines to zero. But as you correctly stated, if the implement is disconnected on a very cold fall day and you try to reattach it on a hot day their can be a bit of pressure in the hydraulic hoses. All we ever did to relieve that minor bit of pressure was to smack the nose of the male connector (the one with the exposed ball valve) onto a hard surface like the draw bar. You get a little "spurt" of oil and you can then easily connect the hydraulic line. ABSOLUTELY NO TOOLS NEEDED!!! Just try to make sure that the end of the hose and the surface your going to strike it against is dirt free. It is so incredibly FAST and EASY and NO tools are needed!!
You're correct but, you run the risk of high pressure hydraulic fluid shooting under your skin. It works, I do it too, but it wouldn't be the recommended method.
@@MessicksEquip : Well, my experience was that the manner in which you have to grip the end of the hose to strike the tip against a surface would eliminate the chance of being injected with hydraulic fluid. To have a chance of that happening you would almost have to strike the end of the hose against your own hand. I don't know about you, but my hand has never been rigid enough for that possibility. If you want to add a bit of safety to the process, after cleaning the end of the hose with a clean (mostly) rag, wrap that rag over and around the end of the hose before you strike the tip against the draw bar. It contains the little "splat" of hydraulic fluid rather well.
Another point is that the threads of many of the hydraulic coupling can have that Teflon tape on them to assure against leaks. You can't constantly be loosing and tightening fittings with that tape on them and expect the tape to do it's job. You'd have to remove the fitting and re-apply new tape, making a real big mess.
Just clean the tip of the hose, wrap a rag around it, and strike it against a hard surface.
Good advice Neil, it’s nice to see even the person who is around these machines all day have issues at time.
Wish I had seen this a year ago. First time I disconnected my grapple I had it fully open. When I went to reconnect I could not get those fittings to couple. Loaded up the tractor and went over to Kubota dealer and he did exactly what you did, loosened the fitting, relieved the pressure, and Presto, easy connection.
Was at a county fair a few years back and there was a tractor on display with the bucket raised up. Turns out it was full of water due to a day of rain. Anyways, a kid climbs up into the seat and, you guessed it, pulls the control stick and that bucket slammed into the ground. Only the grace of God kept the other folks around the tractor from getting crushed.
Grace of God? No. More like the concepts of Darwin at play. Anybody who would walk under a bucket had already been crushed or otherwise mashed up long before this kid came along.
I have a Knipex Pliers Wrench in my tractor toolbox for just such an occasion. Easy to adjust and has parallel jaws so you almost never mar the surface or round the fastener!
Outstanding, Neil! I can only imagine the millions of tractor owners who would love to have seen this before they stomped their feet in frustration. Well done!👏👏👏
Very good demo of how to resolve that problem. However for some folks you left out a process LOL. Make sure you tighten the coupler after you release the pressure.
Love your demonstrations, they are helpful to 🚜 new bees.
Was going to ask this question in the comments, glad i found the answer, thanks!
4:33 what do you mean, the adjustable hammer/pry bar is always the right tool
1:56 Always remember to check for Fluffy, Mittens, or your offspring before initiating step 1 😅
Ken’s Bolt On Hooks sells special decompress hydraulic wrench’s (different sizes) for hydraulic line and pioneer fittings. I just bought one. I got sprayed in the face and eyes last summer trying to decompress my loader hydraulic lines. Luckily I wear glasses, because I might have loss an eye, that hydraulic fluid sprays out like a jet when it’s under pressure. Great video and warning owners not to be under your implement when you relieve. Replaced my first loader hydraulic line this week, first thing my dealer said was release that pressure by moving loader joystick around 5 times and don’t be under loader when you take off the line.
Thanks a lot it really help me first time tractor owner lol
This is another very appropriate topic and you demonstrated tractor a problem many of us encounter. I think the idea of safety glasses, thick gloves. and extreme care around hydraulic fluids, hoses and fittings is very important for all of us. Keep up the good work as your presentations are unique and useful to tractor owners.
I learn something new every time I watch this UA-cam channel . thank you for the information
Neil I get that when I hook my loader back up to my Grand L3240. What I usually do is to put a rag over the end of the hose and lightly hit it with a rubber hammer or if it is the female side I have a large round bar I slide in wrapped with a rag and hit it. It does the trick and I don't risk having a leak at fittings.
rag is a good idea.
I done it for years with a rag and hammer for the male end, obviously away from me for safety. tapping on the pin.
the odd time with the female end with a large bolt inside it.
tappy tap tap..
Awesome video. What shadetree mechanic doesn’t use channel locks!
Hi Neil, I live in Australia and have the same problem. I made a tool that slips over the coupling and welded a bolt to the top. It screws down on coupler and relives pressure Easily. You Only need to screw it down with your fingers. Only loose a little bit of oil and very safe.
It is a pretty day and I need to get back out and work, but not before saying God bless you for the right solution at the right time. Well almost right - it took me 45 minutes of trying before thinking I need to consult another problem solver. I'm far from a gear head and did not know the pressure could build up on the implement side, but I bled a teaspoon of fluid and seconds later my connection worked. Thank you very much. Thank you. Thank you!
Thanks a million did 2 disconnects yesterday no problem today couldn't get them to connect to save my life , this really helped.
This I'd know this last year when I had a line lock. Thanks for using a tool most tractor owners have available.
Good info that anybody with hydraulics should know. I bought a Waite tool for the male pioneer couplers I have.
I’ve always been taught step 1 relive pressure on the tractor side, step two, take the the coupler and jam it against the tractor to relive the pressure from it. Kinda hard to explain with words but if you jam it agains something hard it pushes the little plug at the end in and let’s the fluid spray out in a way where it’s not gonna spray at you under pressure, sure it’s messy but it’s safe and easy
That is exactly what I do. I jam the ball on the end of the male end into a hard piece of steel then retry. First always work all valves open on tractor end.
What's a good diesel gas treatment or best to help protect the engine
www.messicks.com/part/00343/32oz-total-power
😄 I love the true to life honesty! (the boom dropping & incorrect tool) Because problems occur at inconvenient times & places way more often then when parked inside the garage!
Keep up the great work! Thanks for the videos!
Thank you. Ignition on to release third function was the trick.
I get this all the time on my grapple when I leave it outside, drives me nuts. I’m surprised no one has come out with some sort of in-line relief valve for just this situation.
I made a tool to relief the hydraulic pressure. ua-cam.com/video/finY_sP88yo/v-deo.html Later
When you disconnect an implement like your grapple,re-couple the ends of the implement back together when its off the tractor.as the temps change and pressure in the lines increase it will tend to balance itself in the closed system thru the movement of the piston in the cylinder.There will tend to then be some forgiveness when coupling back to tractor.This is making reference to implement lock,not tractor.Also,before disconnecting implement,do not dead head implement in any one direction,leave it kinda half open or closed.
Bolt on Hooks sells the tool for relieving hydraulic pressure. Tim in northern TN
@@northeasterndirtandpropert7974
You my friend are awesome. I will start doing this as a matter of protokhall.
💯
Thank you.
Could have been 2 minutes
Exhaust hanger pliers work on the Smaller lines. A quick squeeze is all it takes.
Neil what’s the bottle on the loader for? Behind the bucket on the loader cross member?
Sharp eye. Keep watching.
The right tool is always at the shop, In the real world you are far away from the shop when you have a problem.
This video is a HUGE help. It took me longer to get the wrench than it did to finally make the connections.
Thank you!
There is a clamp you can purchase to pull couplers together. Nathan on "out of the woods" has one. It is a Irwin clamp modified by Skis steer solutions. Might be something for Messick's to stock ? Skid steer Solutions has a video about them.
The tool is called a “QC Mate”, made by the company Xboom. It provides the force necessary to connect the couplers without needing to relieve the pressure at all. I highly recommend it.
Didn’t really want to bleed the lines, so I tried just wrapping gallon sized bags of ice around the hydraulic cylinders. 10 minutes later, they went on with ease! 😊
Yes that too. I have problems with my grapple out in the sun. If you dont mind getting your tractor/attachments wet, spray them down with a garden hose if you have one available. Works everytime for me and no fluid loss.
@@lesstech74 Work smarter …. Not harder! 😊
Thanks for taking the time to share this!
A person could install a manual bleed valve near the fitting.
Thanks for the video, Neil. Good advice. Always love the outtakes at the end!
If you look down that coupler u will see what looks like a bottom take a punch push in on it and that will release the pressure.
This is what I do. I use a brass punch so that I have a lower risk of buggering the QC fitting.
or use a spare male coupler end.
For the skid steer style couplers I use a pair (male/female) of bare (uninstalled) face couplers that have only the plastic factory dust plugs installed. Simply plug in the respective couplers and the excess pressure is immediately bled out (maybe a tablespoon or two of hydraulic fluid) around the dust plugs. I do this for both the attachment and the tractor couplers. A pair of face couplers run about $50. I suppose you could do the same for the pioneer style couplers.
How timely… this is really annoying, and at times I just give up, move the machine into a shady area and come back later. With flat face couplers you can usually press on the male end to bleed some fluid… still a major pain. I was going to look for a pressure relief block like you find on skid steers…. One push of a button and the pressure is gone.
What do you do when the upper pistons on the loader get out of sync? One side hits mount before the other or is higher than the other.
Retract them back fully, they will reset,.unless something is bent.
I have a case 1085C that needs some parts, do you carry case replacement generic parts?
You can talk with our team of parts technicians and they would be able to get you the info on these parts. You can call in to 800-222-3373 or use the parts diagrams available at messicks.com.
yeah went thru this problem the first time I had to rehook my backhoe, good thing my neighbor came over and caught on because I was frustrated!
Great info Neil. No matter how I try to relieve the pressure I seem to occasionally get this problem. Typically I find that if I push in on the inside of the fitting (I call it the plunger) with a flat round pice of metal, like a punch I can relieve the pressure and quickly connect the fittings. So far so good, no leaks or damage to the fitting. My question is; what is the likelihood I will damage the fitting or implement if I continue this practice. Appreciate thoughts from viewers, good luck to all.
Usually you don't want to do this because of the risk of hydraulic injection. Some people mitigate that by covering the end with rags.
@@MessicksEquip Awesome, thank you for the response! Love the new Mount Joy location, best wishes for continued success!
is it acceptable to just use a wide screw driver or small square driver to press male connector to release pressure?
see comments below about hydraulic fluid getting shot into your nailbeds. It works, but can be dangerous.
Don't put your finger in. Similar situation happened where a man lost his arm... trying to release pressure by pressing the ball with his finger. The oil jumped under the nail filling his hands. Later on the operation table the surgeons had no other option to amputate the arm right from the elbow.... few minutes too late the patient would have died.
can you please make a video about gear shift kubota compact tractor (b series)? kubota in my country only sell gear shift kubota but nobody make a video about it.
What about the abominable quick-connectors?
I use a different method. I use a 6-inch length of 1/2 inch brass rod and insert it into the female coupler, then wrap a rag around the whole thing and give the rod a tap with my toolbox-on-a-stick (hammer). It releases about a 1/4 of a teaspoon of fluid and I am good to go.
That worked for me! Thank you for solving my problem! Great content!
By the way: Will the LA535 fit to my L2850 DT as well? Regards Heinz Germany
No, you'd have a Europe specific loader option. different than our USA models.
@@MessicksEquip Thanks for the quick response.
My grapple did that , stopped closing jaws down when I remove it
Hey, where do I get a shirt like that?🤔
Is it possible that the pressure is built up in the lines on the grapple as well? I did this and I still cannot get them connected. I’m going to crack coupler on grapple tomorrow morning (it’s 100 degrees and the fluid is insanely hot).
Everyone with hydraulics should own a Waite Hydraulic Quick Connect Decompression Tool. There are different sizes & styles of Q.D.'s (quick disconnect fittings), so you must order the correct Waite tool to fit your own Q.D.'s. Use the right tool for the job!
This method is a LAST resort! Every machine with hydraulics should come with Xboom Coupler QC mate hand clamp. It is the safest, fastest, and easiest way to couple under pressure (Can even be used to compress coupled connectors to release the lock ring for un-coupling).
I second this. The Xboom QC mate tool is by far the best way to deal with this issue. The “Waite” tool works good to relieve the pressure but the QC mate just connects it, no need to relieve anything.
You can also wrap a rag over the male coupler and bump it with your wrench or a hammer to relieve the pressure without disconnecting anything.
Saved my afternoon! Great videos
I just depress the ball.. Very simple and quick.
I wasted 30 min trying to relieve pressure until I finally did the same as Neil.
Ok those couplers do not hold pressure due to "O-Rings." Another words it metal to metal and relieving pressure will not pop O-rings in the process. True or false?
If new couplers are be ball bearings stiff. We don't have pressure and the connection is tight but it doesn't lock.
Yup, been there!
thanks...i was stuck putting the mulcher on my excavator and this was exactly the issue
Good practical advice - nice job!
Perfect timing. Thanks!
Excellent video
This video just saved me. Thank you so much
I am a complete amateur but for me it seems logical to have "manual return to tank valves" at these places/hoses/pipes. Why so much oil waste everywhere in this field of business is an unknown to me... Thanks for sharing!
Great advice Neil. Hope you didn't loose your beverage when the loader dropped! 😉😎👍
All great safety points Professor Neil.
Wow, how difficult would it be to add a button or lever that does this? My biggest frustration with tractors is that they marginally improve over the past (even worse) design and call it a job well done when in fact they haven't solved the whole problem. If a third party has done something like this (likely given that it's both common and obvious) someone please post a link. Thanks in advance!
Day Neil, my two pennies worth would be to make sure there is no dirt on either side of the connection before putting it together, that is wipe both male and female surfaces with a clean rag.
I just got in the habit wether it's a front or rear hydraulic quick connect to shut equipment off and relieve the pressure through the valve before disconnecting the lines, same when reconnecting them.. makes it much easier to do...
I got the opposite couplet that plugs into my lines with a screw and a bleeder hole to relieve the pressure works on tractor front end loader oh my attachments cost $60 to make
Saved me a lot of frustration - thanks!
Good morning Neal. I noticed that you are wearing a UA-cam shirtsleeve tee shirt. Is it that warm in Pennsylvania ? What is that mounted on top of your roll bar? Most people never would’ve guessed to release the pressure on the hydraulic lines // system to connect your hydraulic lines. Excellent video Neal.
Liked Subscribed & Shared
We had like 2-3 nice warm days at the end of March, then it turned cold. Its been awful since.
Thanks for the safety tips. Nothing to be complacent about.
Bro you saved me a bunch of hassle!
It would have been just as easy to jack up the loader a little bit. That also relieves the hydraulic lock of the attachment without needing to spill any oil.
This was with 3rd func hoses
@@MessicksEquip The loader frame was still in the air. There could have been some residual pressure in the system. Relieve all the pressure in the system and try again.
This was a life saver. life saver
My recommendation would be to find a dealer you can trust and have a relationship with and buy multiple pieces of equipment so that you never have to disconnect anything from them..... ;-)
one tractor for every attachment. Nice!
@@MessicksEquip That's my feeling....I so far have adhered to that philosophy 🙂
I have been successful in putting a ratchet extension with the square drive into the coupler and hitting it with a hammer to relieve the pressure.
Set correctly, ain’t nothin wrong with good ole channel locks!!😁
This helped me a lot.... Thank you
I keep a kouple kresent wrenches on my traktor for just this issue in addition to what ever else may okkur.
And tigthten it again?
The right tool is a hammer. Tap the end of the male fitting, pushing the plunger in, releasing the fluid. Be advised you will be wearing some though...
Thank you for your video. It's very helpfull
I hate to crack the fittings to relieve pressure, and doing this several times can actually render the fitting useless as the threads wear out.
I use two different methods, well three, if you count the procedure you mentioned as to working ALL of the hydraulic controls.
I will sometimes use a QC Mate to squeeze the two connectors together, and this works rather well.
OR, I actually made a pressure relief tool using a gutted hydraulic connector with a T-handle and bolt fabricated into it and will mate it up to the connector under pressure and turn the handle which uses the bolt to push onto the connector thus relieving pressure.
Thank you!
Most tractor owners will likely be doing this with channel locks. LOL
Do a segment on flat faced hydraulic fittings
A mechanic told me tap the ball with socket extension wrapped with a cloth works every time