1922 kv ± is my jam for sure. Nice an smooth for filming on 4s, freestyling on 5s, and to the moon on 6s. The site looks like you're selling well, the 2203's got gobbled up. Keep it coming brother!
Emax definitely has some great motors. I’m still flying my Hawk 5 that I got the week it was released a few years ago and I know I’ve put over 1000 packs on those ls2206’s and their still going strong. I did get the rs2306II 2400’z to replace them with when they finally go out but so far the boxes are just collecting dust. 👍
I'm gonna be honest I only fly cheap motors on quads. But on airplanes I always go for an expensive brand and unpacking it feeling it and licking it is always like Christmas. You just gotta embrace the cnc work the surface finish the smell and the taste and how it feels in your hand
my thoughts exactly - beein rocking xing and emax eco for over a year. close to zero performance drop from 27$ premium mr steel motors and t-motor. yes. i did blind tests. the budget ones are just as good
My first criteria for selecting motors is "can I get 2 or 3 sets without breaking the bank". I'm not good enough a pilot to notice the performance improvement of a premium motor.
No the only difference you will notice is longevity and differences in crash resistance. Sometimes they use cheaper magnet wire with a thinner coating that burns easier to short on an untuned quad. But your right I don’t think any human can tell the difference (don’t tell all the hype train fanboys I said that, don’t want to hurt feeling and all that, they are a sensitive bunch).
I grabbed a set to replace those FPVcrate Booster motors on one of my "cheap" quads. They can't possibly be worse than those and are probably quite a bit better. I think if you get a relatively high-KV "6s" motor, like 1900+, it'll run good on 4s with a really pitchy prop or 6s with a lighter one. Or you could buy 5s batteries because nobody else runs them and they're cheap 😅
I still use Racerstar BR2306S 2400KV on 4S. Racerstar improved the bearings over the years. They are really nice motors today. Budget motors are good enough at least for me flying cinematic and a little bit of freestyle. Thanks for sharing btw :o)
Cool frame. I’ve been trying to work w a few people (I have multiple frames designed in my toolchain in testing atm, and my own large in-house CNC for cutting the plates) to come up with a universal front camera/rear VTX ant/other acc Mount standard. So we are able to mix and match front cages/mounts/rear mounts/ etc from different manufacturers on any frame. It’s just coming in with this base measurement standard that I can get people to agree on. If interested let me know. Then for marketing purposes the frame (from whoever is making) will be “whatever name” compatible. Haven’t got to coming up with a catchy logo name yet. Hope that makes sense. Thx!
I run the old Emax Eco 1404 on my 4'' MLR and they are awesome. PLUS they came with six sets of screw lengths, which I don't even get on more expensive quality motors. My favorite budget brand by far.
Finally, Bob telling people to run 4S on 1900KV... throw some 5x5x3 flavored props on there, and it works (or run 51433's, it still works). Not that I need the vindication, but that setup is still capable of more pace than 90% of the people who race, and it's more than adequate for freestyle.
I'm using the old emax ecos on 2 of my builds. There are 2 main problems: the bell is made up of 2 different pieces and in a hard crash they can separate from eachother, and the bell is too soft, I destroyed it on a 1 meter crash on concrete.
Yup, that and the bearings are all I can tell as a meaningful difference between those $11 motors and the $22 and up motors... I'll make that trade on racers ever day.
@@Max_0578 I don't think so, they are practically the same motor with a slightly different design and cool new look. They are fine, they pretty much destory every other motor at this price point.
i only fly 2306 r6 2450kv from brotherhobby on 5 inch, they are unbreakable, have flown them almost every day for almost 2 years and never had a motor break, the spare i bought is still in its box! highly recommended at around 24-26$
Still haven't gone to 6s after 5 years in the hobby. All my quads are only 4s capable due to price of components and batteries. And with crappy weather in my area, it still works. Maybe Santa will get me a 6s capable quad with some batteries thrown in this Christmas.
This looks good, there is also the NBD Flow motors and the Xing motors, liked the frame, a thinner 6mm arms would be great and also a slot alongside the battery to hold the straps would make it great
I've had a pretty terrible experience with the Tmotor F90s and I'm going to try these 2807s. Even if they are lower quality I have two backups for the cost of just 4 F90s. 2 of the 4 F90s I have, had major issues with the bearings and the quad is nearly unflyable - under 30 packs in and no crashes...
Generally new product lines start out good and then the quality takes a nosedive after a few batches. The f90 isn't new but it's likely hit that curve by now.
My first motors on any quad were emax Eco 2306 1750kv and they were incredible. Unfortunately I’m only flying tmotor and some newbeedrone flows but I really wanna try these motors they sound awesome
I'm trying to use these quad motors on Delta fixed wing for speed runs. The ECO II 2306 are $16 now, May 2023. The 2807s are $20. I was under the impression that only the lower Kv motors could handle 6S. In fact I burned up a set of SunnySky Edge Racing 2207 1800Kv motors running them on 4S 2b 5045 props. Now I'm running some T-Motor Velox 2 1950Kv motors on 4S with 2b 6045 props. I'm afraid I'll destroy them on 6S. Are they OK on 6S? What I'm hearing here is that these ECO II 2307s and 2807s are fine on 6S on any Kv. How will they hold up if I run them using 6045 2b props on 6S? Will I get more speed from the 2400Kv motors on 6S? Any help from those with experience on the motors mentioned would be appreciated!
There's no voltage rating for motors. Only the current matters. If using multirotor motors for a wing, just run the motor at one step lower voltage than what it's intended for with a prop that's around the size the motor is intended for. The issue with multirotor motors is that they are very bad at sustained amperage. They are designed for short bursts of amperage.
Great video as always, Bob! I love it when you talk motors and frames. I think you mentioned briefly you thought 5inch builds may move away from 2207 and 2306 motors, excuse my ignorance but what size do you see being adopted?
The thing I am worried about with the DJI system.. It seems like Remote ID will be taking affect much, much sooner than we all had thought.. How much weight is consumed by just the DJI system alone?? I hope they plan to make a super lightweight version of their current set up..
Congratulations on your channel too and good footage, I want to see if soon I will buy a drone for the filming of my channel to be on top with the locomotives of the logistics course in Araraquara s.p - Brazil, congratulations for sharing the videos
There is a disadvantage to 6s. 20% more cost. 33% higher chance of losing a cell. Thats not to say you arent right, but I keep 2 4s wuads, with insta360go mounts, and cheap batteries, just so I can practice new things. Fly in sketchy areas. It feels lighter and has a different feel. That some may like more. I dont like it more, but I do like the variation.
I like to go to 6S but it comes at a price. Have to switch all my motors and ditch my 4S batteries. What about buying (some) 6S batteries and using a motor output limit on 2450kv?
@wiebe Nieuwenhuis yep motor output limit on a separate profile for 6s. And still be able to use you 4s packs at full kv on a separate 4s profile. Best of both.
@@fpvnycdream_4197 well, you dont really get any of the 6s benefit here. Because you're effectively limiting your motor output to 4s. There's no point in doing this unless you already have 6s packs you cant use
You're probably better off switching the motors around 1 quad at a time. Kabab was hauling on those 1900kv motors with a 4s battery and aggressive props.
Power = Voltage x Current That's why your amps go down when you go to 6s on lower kv. More volts, so less current for the same power. That's as far as I understand. Unless, is the battery less taxed this way? I'm not sure. But it seems to draw the same Amperage theoretically (to me, lol)
Hi, I am trying to decide if I buy the Emax 2807 1300kv or the Avenger 2806.5 1300kv for 7 inch. Both have the same size bearing and the difference is 20 dollar. What would you choose? Thanks in advance!
You always want the highest C rated battery from any brand. The actual numbers don't mean anything but the highest number is the best performing one. If you're looking for a budget battery, often times one step lower in capacity with the highest C rating will perform better than the larger battery with a lower C rating. I recommend the GNB 1100mah 6S high C with these motors in 1900kv. fpvcycle.com/collections/batteries/products/gnb-6s-1100mah-lipo-battery
Hey Bob, I'm about to build a new 5" 4s rig. Ive been looking at these EcoMax motors. If not these then which would you recommend? 220 Martian II frame 👍🏻
I don’t understand why people don’t try 5s... I get wayyy more fly time and way less electrical issues on all my 5s rigs. The batteries are cheaper, lighter, and it just functions so much better in my experience
@@Kabab true. I’ve tried the Thunder Power 5s 1340ish and the Ovonic 1300, they are both incredible. The Ovonics are just as good and significantly cheaper. I get usually around 4-5 min of typical freestyle
Biased here? I am personally glad that competition keeps the cost down. Other wise people would build motors and charge any price they felt no matter what. I bought a 2205 1750 kv for $8 per motor and when I flew it, it worked great. Made me think that all the others where marked up by 100% and 200%.
They are marked up.....but only now because so many 2207 and 2306 motors have been made that the stators are super cheap to make now. The new size I have in the new 5" motor is unfortunately not as cost effective to make so hard to knock the price down. ua-cam.com/video/eUH21oflbzA/v-deo.html
I'm helping a friend build his first kwad and for budget motors I thought either the XING-E's or the Emax eco's would be great. I personally have no experience with motors of both brands so I'm not really sure which ones I'd recommend to him. Between the XING-E's and the Eco II's, which ones would you recommend? (or any other brand in the same price range)
So, Kabab... 8 months later, what are the better motor sizes for 5" quads? I am building both a freestyle 5" and 2 race 5" quads. I am at the point where I need some motors. What is the best size in your opinion for both race and freestyle 5" 6s quads?
You can also run the 2xxx KV with 6s and tune it to 17xx KV in betaflight using scale factor. It will auto switch profile when u plug in a 6s battery. You get the best of all worlds
🤣🤣🤣 speaking of bearings, I broke out my old old old LS210 build from 2016 with the super awesome badass(lmao can’t even say that straight) Racerstar 2205 2300’s. 😂🤣 my gtb339 is faster that than thing hahah. But it still flys, F3 and flysky and good old school HQ 5040 props, yep the ones that would break if you hit a blade of grass too hard. Just goes to show that wore out motors with horrible bearings will still work. Heck I’ve had the same set of xilo 2207 1750’s on one my race quads for well over a year and a half, close to 1000 packs, over 100 crashes, 3 mid airs at races one of witch ripped a motor off the esc and arm anf all 4 still works perfectly fine and not even crunchy yet. I use it as a back up now but I use it for practice so I don’t kill my 2 main arc ones and 1 switchback before getting to race day.
@@Kabab have you made a video on that or is there a particular reason for you to say that? General consensus seems to be that they are a valid budget option... or have you just had beef with t-motor ? :D
Are there others who also experience that there is a veil in the bell after some time ?? 3 of my motor can run almost 5mm up and down. And the screw is completely tight at the bottom of the motor
@@Kabab I do not know where it comes from 🤷 the screw at the bottom is completely tight and the distance the piece sits on at the top ... They were not like that 3 weeks ago when I put them on .. I have not flown very much with them
I have unscrewed the Bell on the used ones and a new motor and it is the small black o-ring that is between the motor Bell and the top disc. As there is of poor quality .. It is gone on almost all the engine I have slop in .. And those where the sidts in they are damaged and expanded .. I think that is why the engines die quickly .. Because when the ring is gone Bell can move down into all the copper wires and destroy them ..
6S makes sense for any gopro carrying quad because of the improved voltage stability. That's the #1 advantage. Lighter quads don't need the 6S because they're not as heavy
These look great and problem with steel vs titanium is less about weight I'd say, if it was it would be more effecting "spin up" of motor vs carry weight and might add a bit smoothness, I think we're all about to jump form heavy 5" to light 6" freestyle because of gopros anyway. I'd say its more, steel might take a beat and deform and hold it (bend) vs titanium is much more elastic. Realistically i think you've broken primary structure if you're bending a steel shaft encased in a prop anyway then they're cheap enough to swap.
Steel has a higher 'toughness' factor. Titanium is more brittle because it's like grade 3 titanium, not grade 5. It won't impact the response of the motor either because it's directly in the center of the rotation. Aside from the weight at the end of the frame arms, it doesn't matter.
@@Kababto be honest i want to help and consider the reader, so i maybe simplify for others (not you) and didn't give you the just info. I work with flying things and actually you're my goto for practical and sensible well reasoned, reliable info, which as an engineer is all I want. You're right in what you say if prop at constant speed like test bench. But not for acceleration which is constantly changing, this is purely theory of mine, nearer a guess, and I was happy to see your direction, but i'd say weight in or around the motor actually would add that hidden feel element you are playing with regarding stator diameter. Maybe not noticeable but i think it would add tension in the motor/prop dynamic. That element inertia, which obviously is the thingies reluctance to change of state for a given mass, to observe this theoretical feel, I think it'd need to be carefully picked out if even possible, because its would be trampled on by a whole different reluctance to change for a given voltage thing going on with low kv and high kv. maybe high KV, high central mass, (density vs area? (circ) ) would produce an interesting effect, slower spin up bit more silk? I guess the losses make that impractical hence 6s. Or a bigger bearing can offset?
If its that crappier titanium its very bad under shear, which is about the only force that kills motor shafts. Steel would even be preferable. Can't remember spelling but titanium is "martenstitic" and it means it realigns its structure to stress and basically grows crystals of itself there which obviously becomes more brittle less tough. It could literally smash. Its just good with constant vibration and heat transfer maybe magnetism?, would be less good to transfer heat away from bearings I'd guess also if its a relevent effect.
@@Kabab hey just changing from 5.1 to 5 and felt the height difference, wouldn't distance from rotating mass of prop add a tweakable variable to the feel/flight cake mix? Think gyroscopic procession experiment with bicycle wheel, then imagine it in different sizes? Dunno, just a guess.
@@DigitalArtisan77 lately there are a bunch of 4.9" props that take advantage of the reduced load. They tend to feel smoother but are of course less efficient. .1" doesn't seem like a lot but it really does make quite the difference. Overall it's hard to tell exactly what's going on so I choose to develop from the outside in with real world testing to gain intuition rather than inside out starting from math theory which doesn't usually translate into the real world. If this was a more expensive or critical application it would make more sense to start from theory...
@@Kabab Awesome! I will try that once my existing motors go bad. I was not happy with a replacement I got. The shaft was soft. One crash on dirt, it bent. I was like "what the fudge is this BrotherHobby". Maybe a copycat
yes you need. i have bought eco motors this year. destroyed two of them in 1 week. never ever destroyed a motor in my 3 years of flying :( before (TBS Motors, Hypetrain Motors, Brotherhobby motors)
I get 8 emax rsii 2207 2550kv for 64€ from AliExpress they arrive and I'm 99% sure they are originals, for now they flight well. Let see in some months And about KV did you try motor output limit? I'm running 4,5,6s for a time without a problem
@@Kabab BG and AliExpress are not so different. After a couple of friends order from a particular shop's I started to give some trust on thems. I also have very bad experience with BG I was skeptical cause the price. 4x32€
I have to buy $27 Mr Steele motors they are the only ones that come with pants! I haven't had to clean them in a year. I would switch to cheaper motors if anyone made full bottom mount motors anymore. I'm sticking with Stouts until someone makes a new 5" motor with big bearings...
The expensive motors have better and thicker magents, as well as other improvements, giving them more power and efficiency. This can be as much as 20% more flight time in my experience (comparing T-motor economy vs top tier)
I wonder why no one is talking about 5S. With 1900kV there are perfect motors dor 5S available. You dont need 2000uF Caps to protect your electronics and still get a little feel for empty batteries without getting that much sag as on 4S. My best reason to skip 5S and 6S the next 2 yeary is that i own 20-25 pcs of 4S batteries. And those work best for me on 2400kV - and i own a lot of quads with 2400-2600kV. Why are 12$ motors so attractive for me: because i start more quads than i land. Sometimes it is cheaper to leave 150$ on top of a tree than risking your life - or keep searching longer than 1 hour.
What's the lowest KV you would go (on a 6S build) that you plan to fly on 4S? I see you're flying 1900KV here. Bardwell did a tuning video on a 6S build but tuned it on a 4S- by mistake and it flew great and really smooth.
Anything below 1750kv tends to be really low power on 4S. 1900kv is a lot closer to normal for 4S. 2200-2300kv used to be the norm for 4S 5". Now it's about 2500-2600kv. But when you're pushing 2600kv 4S because you want more power, you might as well just go to 6S because you'll get better battery performance because it won't be sucking the amps so hard to produce the same power.
@@Kabab Thanks for your reply... I was just tempted by the new Roma and its potential of 6S in the future. I'm one of those people that haven't built a 6S yet. I've been supper happy flying my Acrobrat on 4S (1300mah) and my whoop. I've just been missing a 5" lately. Maybe I'll just stick with the smaller, quieter frames and order the 'FOURIDE'. Thanks again for your feedback-
@@ag137 I'm working on a totally different level of refinement for 5". It'll take some time but maybe in 6mo, the 5" category might look s bit different than it does now
Kabab. Can you please try/review Hypetlite 2204 and compare to Apex1607 on 5". Probably need to try T5125, T5030 and something traditional like Ethix S3.
1607 is a useless size imo. Hot running motor and no good for anything compared to any 2203 or 2204. Also, the fpvcycle 2203 is turning into a 2204 with the batch coming. It's going to be better overall
@@Kabab lol for 5 in it's useless...but for 4in 16xx motor it's perfect...see scope is limited in actuality, kabab hasn't tried every or doesn't know every configuration out there that still can work well
It is not only the money you´re saving but also I don´t want to pay double the price is there are options that work great. If Mr Steele let a chinese manufacturer print his name on the bell, this is not worth the money.
Hollybro 30x30 4in1. The newer one. It's got the best chance at giving you excellent performance consistently. The FC is a total tossup. They're all pretty reliable but they can all fail as well. I'd stick to well known brands for the FC. Not the dinosaur company...
I've tried bargain basement and top shelf. If it's made with quality alloy and tight tolerances, the performance and durability of a $11 motor and a $26 motor are so minor that you are just buying into either status or the last 2% of performance available. If an extra $60 a set is woth it to you then go ahead and splurge, but remember, one knarly crash is $26 not $11.
One of my new released GEPRC 2306.5 also had a bad shaft warpage from a relatively small crash. The bell and shaft are perfectly intact, but the base where the shaft is mounted was damaged. This is so frustrating, buying a new powerful motor and it breaking in your third flight because of bad material.
@@gamaxgbg I've switch to Xing-E motors. The steel shaft makes a difference i think. After a year with the same 4 motors, plenty of crashes. No problems.
@@gamaxgbg unfortunately it all depends on how the impact happens. I crash plenty but I haven't broken a motor in years. I equate it to snowboarding where the better you get the better you get at falling. You see pro boarders go down in ways that would kill a novice if they did.
i have 4s 2600kv motors, but everything else is rated for 6s. Would I be okay running 6s? Or should I set a throttle limit. I have 50a escs and im only drawing around 35 on 4s.
@@nfuller902 still man, runnin stuff at max rating is hard on it, lotsa high level guys like vanover n turner have dropped back to 5s. Cuz of constanlty frying stuff...5s is a great choice though, like 4s but 0 sag, cheaper too
Mine just came in the mail today. I pretty much have the same stance on motors though maybe a little more harsh...basically every motor sucks if it’s gonna crash on concrete. All I’ve gotta do is clip a tree and ding a bell/shaft enough for it to be noticeable in footage and then I pretty much just wanna throw my quad away. I’m definitely on board with the disposable motor idea except for the fact that it creates more trash, there’s gotta be a way to recycle this stuff. I’ve got a box full of bases/stators that are perfectly fine but for the price of new bells and bearings I can just buy these eco motors, it feels super wasteful 😓. Time to go try em out.
These things eat my lil 1000-1100mah batteries which is weird because I have smoox that are 1880kv that get a good 5 min of ripping and these get like 3min. I’m also getting some sort of desync on faster flips while running 48kz, I think it got better after switching back to 24kz but didn’t get to test it much. So far, without even crashing them ....I regret buying 6 of them...even at $12 a pop.
@@woopweep9605 the smoox is an unusually efficient motor for sure and it does have better parts. These emax motors are a long shot from bad however. I'm getting the same 3min ripping I usually do on them. Same 1100mah 6S. However I do agree the smoox is a more efficient motor overall. It's my favorite motor right now by far. It also has a larger stator which will add to the efficiency when you're not going all out
@@woopweep9605 that's a result of the high kv and high voltage. You may need to make sure you have a good cap on the esc that's right on the batt pads. Also manage filters if you don't have rpmf on. Finally, turn Dmin off if you're on BF 4.2.X and after that you can consider pids. It's unlikely to be a PID issue however.
The BH is a better overall motor because it weighs about 8g less but these are way cost effective. I have a much larger motor coming out soon that is a much better size for 7" and weighs as much as the emax 2807. My motor will be about $27 however.
As you were talking about analog vs DJI I'm reminded that I'd love to see a 3" setup that you'd recommend for Vista. I've not made the DJI jump yet, but really like my TP and BT. I would like the same attributes with a Vista build as a way to have great video with a fun, light, quiet park flyer. I've looked at the Hornet frame, the LeDrone Mod-L & GoaBreeze as well and more. If analog will fade away, what will replace/join the TP3 recommendation and parts?
@@Kabab The TorqueFPV build looks like a nice and neat 3-inch Vista build. It would be great if other companies made something as good, so I could get hold of it. Torque only ships to the US.
The windings are messy because children probably wind them to save Emax $. Jk, but I do hope these are more durable than version 1. I bent 2 of those out of shape after a single crash on grass.
There's nothing high end in this industry. It's unfortunately all pretty trashy. I like this radio best because the gimbals are almost full size and the controller is a good size for my hands. I use crossfire on it only.
I been changin mine for years, keeps em super smoove, just need a punch n hammer n thin oil to help em slide in n out, buy fushi bearings on aliexpress $6 10 bearings, abec5 rated for 50k rpm +
@@flo-ridafpv5713 do you think it would actually be worth it to get “budget” motors and change the bearings so they’re super smooth, or is it more of a repair/maintaining type of thing? Sorry if my question is kinda stupid.
@@galx3573 nah good idea, but only change em if they noisy, use BF motor tab n run 1 motor up at a time , ya will feel vibes in the frame arm. And ive used super $ bearings too, they dont last longer ...still rattle after a hard hit same as fushi
The Eco I's are great for the price, but these look lightyears better for the same price...
Love my ECO I’s. Super durable and well made for the $$. Fully agree.
1922 kv ± is my jam for sure. Nice an smooth for filming on 4s, freestyling on 5s, and to the moon on 6s. The site looks like you're selling well, the 2203's got gobbled up. Keep it coming brother!
Emax definitely has some great motors. I’m still flying my Hawk 5 that I got the week it was released a few years ago and I know I’ve put over 1000 packs on those ls2206’s and their still going strong. I did get the rs2306II 2400’z to replace them with when they finally go out but so far the boxes are just collecting dust. 👍
I'm gonna be honest I only fly cheap motors on quads. But on airplanes I always go for an expensive brand and unpacking it feeling it and licking it is always like Christmas. You just gotta embrace the cnc work the surface finish the smell and the taste and how it feels in your hand
Totally understandable there considering airplanes rarely if ever crash 🙂
@@fsarfino yeah and it's only one motor
Taste is one of the most important factors in a motor for me. Something a video review simply cannot convey.
What flavor do you prefer? Rosin flux or bearing grease? Yeah I can’t decide either. :-)
Funny I am the opposite. I go cheaper motors & old batteries on planes as it doesn't matter & good motors & fresh batteries on quads.
my thoughts exactly - beein rocking xing and emax eco for over a year. close to zero performance drop from 27$ premium mr steel motors and t-motor. yes. i did blind tests. the budget ones are just as good
This is exactly what I felt, too. Will never spend more on a motor.
No you sure as hell don't need a $27 motor. Anything that is durable has 2207-2208 1750-2000kv written on the side will work fantastic imo.
My first criteria for selecting motors is "can I get 2 or 3 sets without breaking the bank". I'm not good enough a pilot to notice the performance improvement of a premium motor.
If you were the best pilot you couldn't notice the performance improvement because there is none
@@Kabab 👍
No the only difference you will notice is longevity and differences in crash resistance. Sometimes they use cheaper magnet wire with a thinner coating that burns easier to short on an untuned quad. But your right I don’t think any human can tell the difference (don’t tell all the hype train fanboys I said that, don’t want to hurt feeling and all that, they are a sensitive bunch).
Cost doesn’t necessarily get you strength. My zing motors are still going strong 2 years later. Tmotor f40 didn’t even last a season.
@@AliBFPV more expensive motors are often more delicate because they're going for lower weight
I grabbed a set to replace those FPVcrate Booster motors on one of my "cheap" quads. They can't possibly be worse than those and are probably quite a bit better.
I think if you get a relatively high-KV "6s" motor, like 1900+, it'll run good on 4s with a really pitchy prop or 6s with a lighter one. Or you could buy 5s batteries because nobody else runs them and they're cheap 😅
I still use Racerstar BR2306S 2400KV on 4S. Racerstar improved the bearings over the years. They are really nice motors today. Budget motors are good enough at least for me flying cinematic and a little bit of freestyle. Thanks for sharing btw :o)
Cool frame. I’ve been trying to work w a few people (I have multiple frames designed in my toolchain in testing atm, and my own large in-house CNC for cutting the plates) to come up with a universal front camera/rear VTX ant/other acc Mount standard. So we are able to mix and match front cages/mounts/rear mounts/ etc from different manufacturers on any frame. It’s just coming in with this base measurement standard that I can get people to agree on. If interested let me know. Then for marketing purposes the frame (from whoever is making) will be “whatever name” compatible. Haven’t got to coming up with a catchy logo name yet. Hope that makes sense. Thx!
Man this makes me want to fly my 5 inch more!
6s Ecos were sold out on RDQ after your fb group post lol. Building my first 4s 5” with the higher kv ecos tmw, so excited!
Sweet looking motors, my son in law is partial to Emax eco motors. He's gonna love these. Happy flying. 🤓
I run the old Emax Eco 1404 on my 4'' MLR and they are awesome. PLUS they came with six sets of screw lengths, which I don't even get on more expensive quality motors. My favorite budget brand by far.
i mainly fly 4S because I got a ton of them. but all my newer quads are build to accommodate 6S
I’m a fan of their freestyle spec motors 4S 2400kv. The T-Rex camera is great a well!
Pretty beautiful looking motors... Really impressive job, Emax! 😮
Great flying and review, Bob!!!
Stay safe there! 🖖😊
Finally, Bob telling people to run 4S on 1900KV... throw some 5x5x3 flavored props on there, and it works (or run 51433's, it still works).
Not that I need the vindication, but that setup is still capable of more pace than 90% of the people who race, and it's more than adequate for freestyle.
Moooorree than adequate
I'm using the old emax ecos on 2 of my builds. There are 2 main problems: the bell is made up of 2 different pieces and in a hard crash they can separate from eachother, and the bell is too soft, I destroyed it on a 1 meter crash on concrete.
Yup, that and the bearings are all I can tell as a meaningful difference between those $11 motors and the $22 and up motors... I'll make that trade on racers ever day.
They say that this one is super ultra durable...
@@Max_0578 I don't think so, they are practically the same motor with a slightly different design and cool new look. They are fine, they pretty much destory every other motor at this price point.
@@NicolaGuerrera yeah, but emax says that these are super strong. Dunno what they did but thats what they say.
@@Max_0578 Guess we'll find that out on my next build :)
I bought the 1300 KV 2807 for a long range build, I hope they are good
Greetings from Colombia
i only fly 2306 r6 2450kv from brotherhobby on 5 inch, they are unbreakable, have flown them almost every day for almost 2 years and never had a motor break, the spare i bought is still in its box! highly recommended at around 24-26$
Of course they come out after I bought the old ones and before I put them in any quad. :D
Thank you for your review of the eco ll's and the t-rex I've been debating trying them out!!!!
the humble gut shot at the end made me feel more like a human :)
Still haven't gone to 6s after 5 years in the hobby. All my quads are only 4s capable due to price of components and batteries. And with crappy weather in my area, it still works. Maybe Santa will get me a 6s capable quad with some batteries thrown in this Christmas.
This looks good, there is also the NBD Flow motors and the Xing motors, liked the frame, a thinner 6mm arms would be great and also a slot alongside the battery to hold the straps would make it great
I've had a pretty terrible experience with the Tmotor F90s and I'm going to try these 2807s. Even if they are lower quality I have two backups for the cost of just 4 F90s. 2 of the 4 F90s I have, had major issues with the bearings and the quad is nearly unflyable - under 30 packs in and no crashes...
Generally new product lines start out good and then the quality takes a nosedive after a few batches. The f90 isn't new but it's likely hit that curve by now.
Ah really unfortunate, but thanks for the info. Hopefully these eco IIs will help me out! Really enjoy your content man!@@Kabab
My first motors on any quad were emax Eco 2306 1750kv and they were incredible. Unfortunately I’m only flying tmotor and some newbeedrone flows but I really wanna try these motors they sound awesome
How are the nbd flows treating ya
@@towers3372 they are incredible definitely worth it if they are still on sale.
@@switchflip9550 agree the flows are really nice esp for the price
I use xing e pro, and they're in the same price range but have a unibell
Nice video bro! Very usefu, thx for sharing! Happy flights #FPVFAMILY 🤯🤙🔥
I'm trying to use these quad motors on Delta fixed wing for speed runs. The ECO II 2306 are $16 now, May 2023. The 2807s are $20. I was under the impression that only the lower Kv motors could handle 6S. In fact I burned up a set of SunnySky Edge Racing 2207 1800Kv motors running them on 4S 2b 5045 props.
Now I'm running some T-Motor Velox 2 1950Kv motors on 4S with 2b 6045 props. I'm afraid I'll destroy them on 6S. Are they OK on 6S?
What I'm hearing here is that these ECO II 2307s and 2807s are fine on 6S on any Kv. How will they hold up if I run them using 6045 2b props on 6S? Will I get more speed from the 2400Kv motors on 6S? Any help from those with experience on the motors mentioned would be appreciated!
There's no voltage rating for motors. Only the current matters. If using multirotor motors for a wing, just run the motor at one step lower voltage than what it's intended for with a prop that's around the size the motor is intended for. The issue with multirotor motors is that they are very bad at sustained amperage. They are designed for short bursts of amperage.
Great video as always, Bob! I love it when you talk motors and frames.
I think you mentioned briefly you thought 5inch builds may move away from 2207 and 2306 motors, excuse my ignorance but what size do you see being adopted?
My previous video discusses that and where things are going probably
👍🎮🥽✈️👍
Nice fpv drone video recording! Thanks sharing!
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
The thing I am worried about with the DJI system.. It seems like Remote ID will be taking affect much, much sooner than we all had thought.. How much weight is consumed by just the DJI system alone?? I hope they plan to make a super lightweight version of their current set up..
Looked at these but went with Flash Hobby Arthur 2306.5 2550kv @17 a pop! Although JB's 2407 motors might be worth a spin on a 5" quad as well!
Congratulations on your channel too and good footage, I want to see if soon I will buy a drone for the filming of my channel to be on top with the locomotives of the logistics course in Araraquara s.p - Brazil, congratulations for sharing the videos
Well, I don't....
I'm more like a 30 bucks-a-set kinda guy. ;P
Which Motor size do you think will be future I'll just skip to that 🙃
yeah working on it
There is a disadvantage to 6s. 20% more cost. 33% higher chance of losing a cell. Thats not to say you arent right, but I keep 2 4s wuads, with insta360go mounts, and cheap batteries, just so I can practice new things. Fly in sketchy areas. It feels lighter and has a different feel. That some may like more. I dont like it more, but I do like the variation.
I like to go to 6S but it comes at a price. Have to switch all my motors and ditch my 4S batteries. What about buying (some) 6S batteries and using a motor output limit on 2450kv?
Either way you do it, it's really a better way to go
@wiebe Nieuwenhuis yep motor output limit on a separate profile for 6s.
And still be able to use you 4s packs at full kv on a separate 4s profile. Best of both.
@@fpvnycdream_4197 well, you dont really get any of the 6s benefit here. Because you're effectively limiting your motor output to 4s. There's no point in doing this unless you already have 6s packs you cant use
You're probably better off switching the motors around 1 quad at a time. Kabab was hauling on those 1900kv motors with a 4s battery and aggressive props.
Power = Voltage x Current
That's why your amps go down when you go to 6s on lower kv. More volts, so less current for the same power.
That's as far as I understand. Unless, is the battery less taxed this way? I'm not sure. But it seems to draw the same Amperage theoretically (to me, lol)
Hi,
I am trying to decide if I buy the Emax 2807 1300kv or the Avenger 2806.5 1300kv for 7 inch. Both have the same size bearing and the difference is 20 dollar. What would you choose? Thanks in advance!
I have a set of these on the way but I didn't quite understand the text on the outro was the motor ruined ?
I use the full size air unity because I don’t use gopros on the quad
I’m running them now
What phone were you recording with? The video quality is great
Note 20 ultra. It's nice
gonna get me some of these......thanks
I am planning on building by first quad soon with these motors. Would you recommend 1700kv or 1900kv for 6s?
1900kv for sure
@@Kabab yas
@@Kabab thanks for the reply! I guess if 1900kv is to much for my preference I could always scale the throttle. I'm sure it will be fun though!
Whoa look very similar to the Nins and XIngs..
Great Review, as always! How do these compare to the Xing-E?
Both are very similar. These are a tiny bit better built
I've been very unlucky with different motors in the past. Rcinpower is the only brand i trust currently.
They've always been solid
Hello, nice video. Which battery do you recommend for 1900 KV Emax Eco 2306 motors, 4s or 6s? And what C rate? Thanks a lot.
You always want the highest C rated battery from any brand. The actual numbers don't mean anything but the highest number is the best performing one. If you're looking for a budget battery, often times one step lower in capacity with the highest C rating will perform better than the larger battery with a lower C rating. I recommend the GNB 1100mah 6S high C with these motors in 1900kv. fpvcycle.com/collections/batteries/products/gnb-6s-1100mah-lipo-battery
Hey Bob, I'm about to build a new 5" 4s rig. Ive been looking at these EcoMax motors. If not these then which would you recommend? 220 Martian II frame 👍🏻
The bison motor from rcinpower is the best budget motor on the market imo.
I don’t understand why people don’t try 5s... I get wayyy more fly time and way less electrical issues on all my 5s rigs. The batteries are cheaper, lighter, and it just functions so much better in my experience
it is actually the best of both worlds but it's just not as standardized as 6S. The batteries aren't quite as accessible
Same.
@@Kabab true. I’ve tried the Thunder Power 5s 1340ish and the Ovonic 1300, they are both incredible. The Ovonics are just as good and significantly cheaper. I get usually around 4-5 min of typical freestyle
Biased here? I am personally glad that competition keeps the cost down. Other wise people would build motors and charge any price they felt no matter what. I bought a 2205 1750 kv for $8 per motor and when I flew it, it worked great. Made me think that all the others where marked up by 100% and 200%.
They are marked up.....but only now because so many 2207 and 2306 motors have been made that the stators are super cheap to make now. The new size I have in the new 5" motor is unfortunately not as cost effective to make so hard to knock the price down.
ua-cam.com/video/eUH21oflbzA/v-deo.html
I'm helping a friend build his first kwad and for budget motors I thought either the XING-E's or the Emax eco's would be great. I personally have no experience with motors of both brands so I'm not really sure which ones I'd recommend to him. Between the XING-E's and the Eco II's, which ones would you recommend? (or any other brand in the same price range)
Both are great. The emax are built a bit better than the xing. There's no wrong choice however
Great review of those motors Kabab FPV interesting. May get a set one day. Cool video and great flying. Left a like and thank you Kabab stay safe okay
So, Kabab... 8 months later, what are the better motor sizes for 5" quads? I am building both a freestyle 5" and 2 race 5" quads. I am at the point where I need some motors. What is the best size in your opinion for both race and freestyle 5" 6s quads?
Things bigger than 2306 but less than 2507
You can also run the 2xxx KV with 6s and tune it to 17xx KV in betaflight using scale factor. It will auto switch profile when u plug in a 6s battery. You get the best of all worlds
That works too. Not quite the same but close enough
I went extreme using this method and I run 7in props on 2407-2600s with a 60% motor output limit,
Hi kabab, which one do you prefer , 25xx or 28xx 1200kv for 7 inch long range? Need advice, thanks before
28xx is better but imo still not the right size. 2806.5 is an excellent 6" motor. It'll work for 7" but so will 2205...
@@Kabab thanks ^_^ for sharing
🤣🤣🤣 speaking of bearings, I broke out my old old old LS210 build from 2016 with the super awesome badass(lmao can’t even say that straight) Racerstar 2205 2300’s. 😂🤣 my gtb339 is faster that than thing hahah. But it still flys, F3 and flysky and good old school HQ 5040 props, yep the ones that would break if you hit a blade of grass too hard. Just goes to show that wore out motors with horrible bearings will still work. Heck I’ve had the same set of xilo 2207 1750’s on one my race quads for well over a year and a half, close to 1000 packs, over 100 crashes, 3 mid airs at races one of witch ripped a motor off the esc and arm anf all 4 still works perfectly fine and not even crunchy yet. I use it as a back up now but I use it for practice so I don’t kill my 2 main arc ones and 1 switchback before getting to race day.
Should i get the tmotor velox 2207 1950kv or the eco 2 1900kv. A set of 4 velox is $71 sgd and a set of eco 2's cost $69
The velox is actually trash. Don't bother with them or tmotor in general.
@@Kabab oh damn, i always had the impression that tmotor was the leading manufacturer for motors
@@Kabab so should i get the xing E or this then?
@@Kabab have you made a video on that or is there a particular reason for you to say that? General consensus seems to be that they are a valid budget option... or have you just had beef with t-motor ? :D
@@fpv568 Tmotor is a terrible company but the velox is genuinely very low quality. The emax eco is far more worth the money.
Ooo, shiny!
Are there others who also experience that there is a veil in the bell after some time ?? 3 of my motor can run almost 5mm up and down. And the screw is completely tight at the bottom of the motor
Ouch. Really? Where is the slop coming from? If it's the bell top, it would fall off no?
@@Kabab I do not know where it comes from 🤷 the screw at the bottom is completely tight and the distance the piece sits on at the top ... They were not like that 3 weeks ago when I put them on .. I have not flown very much with them
@@maloulukasholm unscrew the bell and see if you can find what's going on. That's very unusual
I have unscrewed the Bell on the used ones and a new motor and it is the small black o-ring that is between the motor Bell and the top disc. As there is of poor quality .. It is gone on almost all the engine I have slop in .. And those where the sidts in they are damaged and expanded .. I think that is why the engines die quickly .. Because when the ring is gone Bell can move down into all the copper wires and destroy them ..
I feel like 6s quads arn't really much or any faster than a TP3. Just good to carry a GoPro?
6S makes sense for any gopro carrying quad because of the improved voltage stability. That's the #1 advantage. Lighter quads don't need the 6S because they're not as heavy
These look great and problem with steel vs titanium is less about weight I'd say, if it was it would be more effecting "spin up" of motor vs carry weight and might add a bit smoothness, I think we're all about to jump form heavy 5" to light 6" freestyle because of gopros anyway.
I'd say its more, steel might take a beat and deform and hold it (bend) vs titanium is much more elastic. Realistically i think you've broken primary structure if you're bending a steel shaft encased in a prop anyway then they're cheap enough to swap.
Steel has a higher 'toughness' factor. Titanium is more brittle because it's like grade 3 titanium, not grade 5. It won't impact the response of the motor either because it's directly in the center of the rotation. Aside from the weight at the end of the frame arms, it doesn't matter.
@@Kababto be honest i want to help and consider the reader, so i maybe simplify for others (not you) and didn't give you the just info. I work with flying things and actually you're my goto for practical and sensible well reasoned, reliable info, which as an engineer is all I want. You're right in what you say if prop at constant speed like test bench. But not for acceleration which is constantly changing, this is purely theory of mine, nearer a guess, and I was happy to see your direction, but i'd say weight in or around the motor actually would add that hidden feel element you are playing with regarding stator diameter. Maybe not noticeable but i think it would add tension in the motor/prop dynamic. That element inertia, which obviously is the thingies reluctance to change of state for a given mass, to observe this theoretical feel, I think it'd need to be carefully picked out if even possible, because its would be trampled on by a whole different reluctance to change for a given voltage thing going on with low kv and high kv.
maybe high KV, high central mass, (density vs area? (circ) ) would produce an interesting effect, slower spin up bit more silk? I guess the losses make that impractical hence 6s. Or a bigger bearing can offset?
If its that crappier titanium its very bad under shear, which is about the only force that kills motor shafts. Steel would even be preferable. Can't remember spelling but titanium is "martenstitic" and it means it realigns its structure to stress and basically grows crystals of itself there which obviously becomes more brittle less tough. It could literally smash. Its just good with constant vibration and heat transfer maybe magnetism?, would be less good to transfer heat away from bearings I'd guess also if its a relevent effect.
@@Kabab hey just changing from 5.1 to 5 and felt the height difference, wouldn't distance from rotating mass of prop add a tweakable variable to the feel/flight cake mix? Think gyroscopic procession experiment with bicycle wheel, then imagine it in different sizes? Dunno, just a guess.
@@DigitalArtisan77 lately there are a bunch of 4.9" props that take advantage of the reduced load. They tend to feel smoother but are of course less efficient. .1" doesn't seem like a lot but it really does make quite the difference. Overall it's hard to tell exactly what's going on so I choose to develop from the outside in with real world testing to gain intuition rather than inside out starting from math theory which doesn't usually translate into the real world. If this was a more expensive or critical application it would make more sense to start from theory...
hello,Can you put a eco 1 bell on the eco ii stator of the same size?
I bet you could but I haven't tried
56g? That's heavy. Which motor have you used before that you thinks was extremely durable? I'm using BrotherHobby R6 and I'm really happy with it,
Yep that's a solid motor for sure. The rcinpower smoox is my preferred motor in 1880kv
@@Kabab Awesome! I will try that once my existing motors go bad. I was not happy with a replacement I got. The shaft was soft. One crash on dirt, it bent. I was like "what the fudge is this BrotherHobby". Maybe a copycat
@@neilfpv BH has always made really good motors. Of course issues here and there but overall really good
very good motors, save your money , i fly everyday ( weather permitting)
what props are those?
I’m running a set of 2306 on a new build and they sing! They make a high pitched whistle 😂
well singing is not bad. It's like a flying angel that's singing :-)
@@Kabab 😍🎶🎵🎶
I bought the old ones a week earlier and they released it now lol 😭
hey man don't feel bad i still have my 2306s and they are great!
I literally did the same! 2207’s 3 days before these launched🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️
Same here! But ah well still perform great
@@charlixaerial I got 2207 too
@@smoke4131 haha i can relate to your name loooool
yes you need. i have bought eco motors this year. destroyed two of them in 1 week. never ever destroyed a motor in my 3 years of flying :( before (TBS Motors, Hypetrain Motors, Brotherhobby motors)
I get 8 emax rsii 2207 2550kv for 64€ from AliExpress they arrive and I'm 99% sure they are originals, for now they flight well. Let see in some months
And about KV did you try motor output limit? I'm running 4,5,6s for a time without a problem
Why would you use aliexpress when you know banggood has the real ones for sure?
@@Kabab BG and AliExpress are not so different. After a couple of friends order from a particular shop's I started to give some trust on thems. I also have very bad experience with BG
I was skeptical cause the price. 4x32€
@@The1188am the difference Is that aliexpress is like amazon, there are a bunch of random merchants on it. Banggood is like walmart, just one merchant
I have to buy $27 Mr Steele motors they are the only ones that come with pants! I haven't had to clean them in a year. I would switch to cheaper motors if anyone made full bottom mount motors anymore. I'm sticking with Stouts until someone makes a new 5" motor with big bearings...
It's hilarious that you have to pay $27 for a motor with a feature that every motor used to have
@@mtlfpv 🤣
8:38 looool looks so underpowered!
It's 4s 1900kv and a very low load prop
If you race these are great motors.
The expensive motors have better and thicker magents, as well as other improvements, giving them more power and efficiency. This can be as much as 20% more flight time in my experience (comparing T-motor economy vs top tier)
That used to be true but it's not so much anymore
I wonder why no one is talking about 5S. With 1900kV there are perfect motors dor 5S available. You dont need 2000uF Caps to protect your electronics and still get a little feel for empty batteries without getting that much sag as on 4S. My best reason to skip 5S and 6S the next 2 yeary is that i own 20-25 pcs of 4S batteries. And those work best for me on 2400kV - and i own a lot of quads with 2400-2600kV. Why are 12$ motors so attractive for me: because i start more quads than i land. Sometimes it is cheaper to leave 150$ on top of a tree than risking your life - or keep searching longer than 1 hour.
5S is definitely overall a perfect compromise but the batteries just aren't as widespread as 4s and 6s. That's really the only reason if you as me
are you satisfied to 9 lite, ı use internal module and ı dont like so much
I have crossfire on mine. I like the gimbals and size of the 9 lite. Nothing else is good
What's the lowest KV you would go (on a 6S build) that you plan to fly on 4S? I see you're flying 1900KV here. Bardwell did a tuning video on a 6S build but tuned it on a 4S- by mistake and it flew great and really smooth.
Anything below 1750kv tends to be really low power on 4S. 1900kv is a lot closer to normal for 4S. 2200-2300kv used to be the norm for 4S 5". Now it's about 2500-2600kv. But when you're pushing 2600kv 4S because you want more power, you might as well just go to 6S because you'll get better battery performance because it won't be sucking the amps so hard to produce the same power.
@@Kabab Thanks for your reply... I was just tempted by the new Roma and its potential of 6S in the future. I'm one of those people that haven't built a 6S yet. I've been supper happy flying my Acrobrat on 4S (1300mah) and my whoop. I've just been missing a 5" lately. Maybe I'll just stick with the smaller, quieter frames and order the 'FOURIDE'. Thanks again for your feedback-
@@ag137 I'm working on a totally different level of refinement for 5". It'll take some time but maybe in 6mo, the 5" category might look s bit different than it does now
@@Kabab You are the master of suspense! Ha! Hmm... six months should be just in time for next summer!
@@ag137 not really much suspense. It'll be pretty clear the direction. It's not that different than what we've got either
Kabab.
Can you please try/review Hypetlite 2204 and compare to Apex1607 on 5".
Probably need to try T5125, T5030 and something traditional like Ethix S3.
1607 is a useless size imo. Hot running motor and no good for anything compared to any 2203 or 2204. Also, the fpvcycle 2203 is turning into a 2204 with the batch coming. It's going to be better overall
@@Kabab lol for 5 in it's useless...but for 4in 16xx motor it's perfect...see scope is limited in actuality, kabab hasn't tried every or doesn't know every configuration out there that still can work well
It is not only the money you´re saving but also I don´t want to pay double the price is there are options that work great. If Mr Steele let a chinese manufacturer print his name on the bell, this is not worth the money.
How’s the latency on the T-Rex? I loved the feed from the toothless 2 but the latency was pretty bad. Can’t wait for your new frame and motors!
The trex is fine but it's not really different than any other analog camera when compared to DJI
Hey kabab, question, all I care about is reliability what fc/ esc stack should I get?
Hollybro 30x30 4in1. The newer one. It's got the best chance at giving you excellent performance consistently. The FC is a total tossup. They're all pretty reliable but they can all fail as well. I'd stick to well known brands for the FC. Not the dinosaur company...
@@Kabab thank you so much! What fc has the best 9v regulator for dji?
@@Themflames any FC that has a 9v is basically the same. There isn't one that will be particularly better or different
I've tried bargain basement and top shelf.
If it's made with quality alloy and tight tolerances, the performance and durability of a $11 motor and a $26 motor are so minor that you are just buying into either status or the last 2% of performance available.
If an extra $60 a set is woth it to you then go ahead and splurge, but remember, one knarly crash is $26 not $11.
yeah that's definitely the message of this video too. If you're flying and expecting crashes, no point to expensive motors
@@Kabab True, if you never crash, you are doing it wrong!
🔥🔥
Does anyone know what ESC works for the eco 2 or what amp they use. Trying to build my first drone, can appreciate some help.
Any 4in1 esc will work
@@Kabab im planning to get 4 individual esc for them, do you think it would be better to use 4 in 1 ?
I steered away from Emax after my RSII motors kept on going bad for no good reason. No bad crashes or anything but shaft warpage nonetheless.
Yep that has happened in the past for sure.
Those are meant for racing hence the light weight, go xing unibell & never damage a bell again
One of my new released GEPRC 2306.5 also had a bad shaft warpage from a relatively small crash. The bell and shaft are perfectly intact, but the base where the shaft is mounted was damaged. This is so frustrating, buying a new powerful motor and it breaking in your third flight because of bad material.
@@gamaxgbg I've switch to Xing-E motors. The steel shaft makes a difference i think. After a year with the same 4 motors, plenty of crashes. No problems.
@@gamaxgbg unfortunately it all depends on how the impact happens. I crash plenty but I haven't broken a motor in years. I equate it to snowboarding where the better you get the better you get at falling. You see pro boarders go down in ways that would kill a novice if they did.
Tell me where you can buy 6s for the same price as the 4s version, please.
They're different prices? Look up the bison motor. It's a much better motor
👍👍
i have 4s 2600kv motors, but everything else is rated for 6s. Would I be okay running 6s? Or should I set a throttle limit. I have 50a escs and im only drawing around 35 on 4s.
Dont do it dude, youll burn shit up, stay 4s and run batt sag compensation on BF 4.2 its magic 6s super hard on components
Yes you can do a 25-30% motor limit and that will run great on 6S. Most electronics today are built for 6S there's nothing to worry about
@@flo-ridafpv5713 everything I run is rated for 6s except for motors
@@nfuller902 still man, runnin stuff at max rating is hard on it, lotsa high level guys like vanover n turner have dropped back to 5s. Cuz of constanlty frying stuff...5s is a great choice though, like 4s but 0 sag, cheaper too
Gotta bear in mind too kabab rarely crashes and or turtles a lot w bound up motors... that causes huge volt spikes to gear, soo
Mine just came in the mail today. I pretty much have the same stance on motors though maybe a little more harsh...basically every motor sucks if it’s gonna crash on concrete. All I’ve gotta do is clip a tree and ding a bell/shaft enough for it to be noticeable in footage and then I pretty much just wanna throw my quad away. I’m definitely on board with the disposable motor idea except for the fact that it creates more trash, there’s gotta be a way to recycle this stuff. I’ve got a box full of bases/stators that are perfectly fine but for the price of new bells and bearings I can just buy these eco motors, it feels super wasteful 😓. Time to go try em out.
Every motor breaks when you hit something hard. There are no exceptions
These things eat my lil 1000-1100mah batteries which is weird because I have smoox that are 1880kv that get a good 5 min of ripping and these get like 3min. I’m also getting some sort of desync on faster flips while running 48kz, I think it got better after switching back to 24kz but didn’t get to test it much. So far, without even crashing them ....I regret buying 6 of them...even at $12 a pop.
@@woopweep9605 the smoox is an unusually efficient motor for sure and it does have better parts. These emax motors are a long shot from bad however. I'm getting the same 3min ripping I usually do on them. Same 1100mah 6S. However I do agree the smoox is a more efficient motor overall. It's my favorite motor right now by far. It also has a larger stator which will add to the efficiency when you're not going all out
@@Kabab try the 2207 1900kv. I've been trying to fly them for the last 2 days and keep getting this trilling oscillation on hard pitch movements
@@woopweep9605 that's a result of the high kv and high voltage. You may need to make sure you have a good cap on the esc that's right on the batt pads. Also manage filters if you don't have rpmf on. Finally, turn Dmin off if you're on BF 4.2.X and after that you can consider pids. It's unlikely to be a PID issue however.
So these 2807s or bh 2806.5 for 6" thoughts kabab?
The BH is a better overall motor because it weighs about 8g less but these are way cost effective. I have a much larger motor coming out soon that is a much better size for 7" and weighs as much as the emax 2807. My motor will be about $27 however.
@@Kabab thanks Bab!
As you were talking about analog vs DJI I'm reminded that I'd love to see a 3" setup that you'd recommend for Vista. I've not made the DJI jump yet, but really like my TP and BT. I would like the same attributes with a Vista build as a way to have great video with a fun, light, quiet park flyer. I've looked at the Hornet frame, the LeDrone Mod-L & GoaBreeze as well and more. If analog will fade away, what will replace/join the TP3 recommendation and parts?
Unfortunately the vista still doesn't fit into a nice neat 3". That's why the fouride is 4". I'll work on it again when I finish the current stuff.
@@Kabab The TorqueFPV build looks like a nice and neat 3-inch Vista build. It would be great if other companies made something as good, so I could get hold of it. Torque only ships to the US.
6s AIO stack recommendations?
Hollybro 32bit 4in1. The new one they made with any fc you like
The windings are messy because children probably wind them to save Emax $. Jk, but I do hope these are more durable than version 1. I bent 2 of those out of shape after a single crash on grass.
Why are you flying with the Frsky x9 lite? I use the same radio but I was under the impression it was pretty low end
There's nothing high end in this industry. It's unfortunately all pretty trashy. I like this radio best because the gimbals are almost full size and the controller is a good size for my hands. I use crossfire on it only.
Ti snaps steel bends
How hard is it to replace bearings in a motor? Would it be a simple pop out and pop in?
Depends on the motor. They can be a PITA to get out.
I been changin mine for years, keeps em super smoove, just need a punch n hammer n thin oil to help em slide in n out, buy fushi bearings on aliexpress $6 10 bearings, abec5 rated for 50k rpm +
@@flo-ridafpv5713 Oh cool. i was thinking they wouldn’t be too expensive and overall result in a better motor with lower cost.
@@flo-ridafpv5713 do you think it would actually be worth it to get “budget” motors and change the bearings so they’re super smooth, or is it more of a repair/maintaining type of thing?
Sorry if my question is kinda stupid.
@@galx3573 nah good idea, but only change em if they noisy, use BF motor tab n run 1 motor up at a time , ya will feel vibes in the frame arm. And ive used super $ bearings too, they dont last longer ...still rattle after a hard hit same as fushi
Hey bob where have you been?
We want some new videos please.
rendering one now. been crazy busy at work