Repacking a Packing Gland/Stuffing box with a Rope Seal on an Inboard Boat
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- Опубліковано 17 чер 2024
- This video is about how to replace the rope seal packing gland/stuffing box on the driveshaft with new rope packing on an inboard marine driveshaft system.
separator nut applies to ARE/Elberts shafts only.
Get new shaft seals and rope packing for your boat stuffing box here: skidim.com/underwater-gear/dr... - Авто та транспорт
Excellent video! Thank you for sharing. Going to replace rope seal today...Hopefully as 'easy' as it looks here.
I've got this to look forward to now my boat is out of the water. Thanks for the Video! :-)
Thank you sir.
Lost track of all the videos I've watched of yours.
All very helpful to me!!
Thank you for an excellent explanation!
Vince is amazing! Discount Inboard Marine is awesome. Incredible service. Fantastic technical support. The really hard stuff goes to Vince. He has walked me through multiple repairs. Not surprised that his how to videos are the best on UA-cam.
Thank you for showing this. Much appreciated.
Great instructions. Thank you, Vince!
Thanks for the video. As with most things you just need someone to show you how to do it once and you can then do it your self. Mine is done now. Took me about 1/2 hour start to finish. Time to go to the lake : )
Great video, thanks for taking the time. I wish an Ericson27 sailboat had such easy access to the packing nut 😅
Great video. Explained very well and the guy behind the camera did an awesome job. Wish more videos were like this!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great vid wish all stern glands were like this 🇬🇧
Thank you for this video, you made this very easy to understand how to do this jod!
GFO or GTU packing like the stuff shown, may last the life of the boat and may not even drip(at all) the traditional 1 to 2 drips per minute while turning. A couple of observations. There may have been room for one additional ring of packing, so long as the nut has enough threads of engagement. That would make for more adjustments and better sealing. Cutting the ends diagonal helps with a better seal. The end should be placed diagonal to the shaft when viewed down so the overlaps are squeezed when the nut compresses. The feathered end should be pointing in the same direction the nut is turned so the thin edge won’t bunch up. The ends of each ring should be staggered as shown. The two handed method may work fine, but when possible I have it lightly snugged. Then I adjust underway about a quarter to half turn from where it stops dripping. Then I periodically check to see if the nut is getting hot during the first 30 minutes of cruise. When installing it’s important to not introduce grit or dirt into the packing and have a clean smooth shaft. Very common to not need adjustment for years. Never use graphite containing packing on yellow metal shafts as severe anodic corrosion may happen.
Possibly the best/most informative comment I've ever read on UA-cam. Thank you!
@@jasonberning1086
My pleasure Jason.
Do you tighten or loosen "about a quarter to half turn from where it stops dripping"? My guess is you are loosening, or backing off the nut so as to allow it to drip a small amount to cool it while spinning?
@@shumanchu1
Yes you can back it off, but nothing seems to happen. Water doesn’t want to drip with this type of packing. If you keep backing off it suddenly flows. Bring it back again and it stops. It’s kinda all or nothing. Back it off, feel for heat/excessive warmth. If it’s cool and not dripping underway, don’t worry about it. Don’t get confused with gear box warmth into the stuffing box. Prop shaft conducting heat.
That is a very thorough comment from old school packing to new tech packing. Thanks for your time.
all the best Neal sw fla
Great video! Thanks for sharing
Fantastic video, thank you so much
Very helpful. Thanks a lot!
Great Explanation!
Same or similar to steam packing on large engines, good vid',
No...THANK YOU SIR..It helps a lot..
Thanks vince
Wil there be any dripping after replacing the packing you described??
That is a great video. Your knees are very durable
all the best Neal
Sw fla
Thank you for this great video and to the men and women who serve us in the armed forces 😋
Thanks!!
Thank-you!!!
Thank you.
Spot on!👊🏻🇺🇸
What size rope packing are you using? I see 1/4” and 1/2” sizes available and not sure which to use. I have same size nut & shaft as this video.
Thank you for this video. I'm interested to see that there seems to be no way to inject stern-gland grease into the packing on this boat. Does it just run dry like that?
Also, you have the boat out of the water, which is very convenient. I have a narrowboat (in the UK) and the packing system is identical to yours except that I have a grease injector on the wet side of the packing. When I do this job I don't usually have the boat out of the water, so the trick is to pack with grease so the stern tube is sealed, then replace the ropes without the boat sinking.
I've been thinking about that and what to do if needed with the boat in the water. My plan, if it's not too damn cold, is to dive in and stuff it from the outside with playdough. I think that would bring down the leakage to acceptable flow to change the packing.
On my boat, a small part of the engine cooling water goes out via the shaft seal to lubricate it.
Are there bearings to replace?
can this be done in a marina or does it have to be on the hard
New to boating so this may be a stupid question. Can this be done while in the water. Seems like water would want to rush in if i loosened it or maybe it just trickels in? Love the videos. Ive gotten a lot of help out of them.
If you dive on the outside of the boat and block the shaft hole and have a bilge pump ready to go you can do it in the water. But if you don't block that hole water will gush in tremendously
Hi
I have the same system on my boat. Do you have to do anything with the rubber tube thing? That has two clips on it ? What is that
Thanks
Rob
hi Vince! I have a strange question, would this seal work on a driveshaft for a submarine?
Matt Parker you’ve peeked my interest
I have a question. When the motor is of my seal drips 10 times per min. When do u need to change it.
I just put my boat in today and they’re both pissing lol yayyyyy
hello you, I am from Vietnam I want to buy this gearbox ratio 1:1
So is it the packing which stops the water entering ? Sorry if thats a dumb question, I am trying to learn about these.
Yes it is the packing that stops the water from coming in. No problem at all that's what we are here for!
@@skidim8143 , do you hold back on the larger nut and tighten the smaller one closer to the rubber shaft clamp? Im guessing if you have twin screw left hand motors port will tighten clockwise and starboard counterclockwise? Im just trying to tighten mine till I get it on the hard to do cutlass bearings, pull shafts, do dripless bearings, etc. Thank you.
👍
What size packing did you use 3/8 or 1/4?
I got the same question?
It is supposed to leak a little bit in service to keep it cool.
What kind of drive is this? Just direct to propeller
Yes it's a direct drive
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Is the boat in the water?
Nope
What size packing on 93 Malibu?
What size wrench?
This is not a "dripless" box. It should drip 4 to 6 drips per minute or your drive shaft will get hot. Dripless are stainless steel against carbon fiber and are water cooled from a manifold drain or other supply point, without getting any water in the boat. I used to use 3 wraps of Gortex or G.T.U. Graphtex on these, now I usually talk them into dripless because they don't need to carry 2 1/4" wrenches and stress over how tight the packing nut should be. Thanks for the vid.
Is there a video on drip adjustment? Does it need to be checked in gear?
This is NOT what is known as a 'dripless' seal. In fact, packing type seals are intended to drip at a very slow rate while running to cool and aid lubrication of the packing. There is such a thing as a dripless shaft seal, but a packing gland type is not it. I object to the misinformation.
Sorry but if you are using packing then you are not working on a "dripless" shaft seal.
One must remember to check after running a few minutes while in the water, as well as again after a few hours in the water. A drip-less system is not meaning drip "free"... there should be with most setups 1 a few drips per minute. This ensures that there is flow for removing trapped air (a source of overheating) as well as helps with stainless corrosion of trapped stagnant water. Especially critical for saltwater. For those who only keep their boat in the water a day or two (weekend warriors :) ) then pull it to park on land, there could also be dry-out, which should be watched for... not super noticeable, but watch during new seal setting when returning to water next. Also, do not squeeze the glands so tight that it binds on the shaft, or you will add extra friction that will wear the shaft, cause heat and failure of gland packing and possibly of damage to shaft. Initially once 'hand tight' tighten only one flat of the nut at a time, until you set to one or two drips per minute range.
I agree 100%. It must drip a few drops per minute while underway.( On a shaft only turning about 2500 rpm) Also, don't over tighten the packing nut and then back it off a little. Sneak up on tight enough.
I concur.. I’ve got a 61 Chris craft with actually this same type of gland which makes the install pretty easy.. if there’s no small drip sequence, then you could potentially have a mid lake catastrophe
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!