This series has been such a gem. I'm in the process of making the decision to rebuild my f23a1 or drop a junkyard f23a1 in my 2000 Honda Accord LX. Back story: back in 2021 I was having overheating issues and found a crack in the radiator. Replaced it and the thermostat. Ran fine for a month or so, then began overheating again. This time, I found coolant excessively leaking from the weeping hole. Replaced the water pump and timing. Again, everything ran fine and then a couple of weeks later, it began running hot same as the last two times. I replaced the thermostat again, thinking maybe it was a dud. During that change, I also did an oil change. That's when I noticed the milky substance in the oil. I removed the valve cover to find more milky substances. At that point, I really didn't feel like bothering with the car anymore. I sold it. Fast forward to the present, I randomly seen the car for sale. Guy said it just had a head gasket replacement, new distributor, new battery, blah blah $1100 worth of work done, but died on him 2 weeks out of the shop. Couldn't get it to crank. I decided to buy it back for $600. I thought, well, I know this car, I worked on it, I know the timing was done 2 years ago with less than 15k miles on it, and I know she's a tough girl. Got her home, changed the oil, and it was a mess. Pure chocolate milk, thick milk. I did manage to get her started, actually drove her around for a few laps in my neighborhood, but noticed she started to run hot at idle. I wasn't far from home, less than a block. Got back, parked, checked the oil, and it was already mixing again. So, that lets me know, the head gasket replacement wasn't done correctly with the torque down bolts, possible cracked/warped head, or possible cracked/warped block. SO, back to the point, I'm trying to decide whether or not she's worth rebuilding. Facts are, she's had a blown head gasket for quite some time, she's been driven with a blown head gasket for at least 15k miles, and we know she still runs and drives currently even with a failed head gasket replacement. In your opinion, is she worth rebuilding or should I just swap her for another junkyard f23a1?
That's quiet a saga! Check the head and block with a straight edge like I show in one of those videos (I forget which one). If you can get a feeler gage at.003 under the straight edge, then find a junkyard one. Maybe check machine shops and see what they'd charge to deck it. If the gasket was already replaced, I'm betting it's out of spec. Good luck! Glad you enjoyed the series.
ua-cam.com/video/LxR9oZ7ML_E/v-deo.htmlsi=WJFSfkhiKLvoGASV Here you go. I have another series on the head gasket and I show how to check the the head and block in this video.
@@ktecgarage Thanks man! I kind of figured that would be the answer. I’m in no rush to get it rebuilt, so this will be the start of my own journey. Your videos will help me get it done. I appreciate your knowledge and time you’ve invested in helping others like myself.
Hi Thank you for not editing out any of the steps in the rebuilding process. I'm currently rebuilding my F23 engine and I was able to follow along easily by watching your videos. It's my first time doing this and after watching your videos I felt like I've done it before.
Your videos rock man. Without em. This 3 yr project woulda been a decade. Thank you for the quality videos. Everything matched for my f22a engine but the older accords didn't have crank position sensors. But other than that. Same engine and procedure. You did a great job. My engine spins clean with fresh parts, smooth and free thanks to your videos
Thank you so much for your comments! Everytime someone thanks me for the effort I put into those videos really makes my day. Glad to know it helped you out.
Right as I turned the AC fan up higher thinking man that's a little loud I hear 7:24 "I hope that fan's not too loud" at the exact perfect timing. I swear it on my life. Lol
@@ktecgarage Can do. Quick question. What do I do to the spot where the crank/main bearings go before I put them in. Do I sand it or just cleaning is enough
Silly question but just confirming; there's only one set of thrust washers (13:15 min mark) that are installed? I see relief cuts in the block at the adjacent main journals, but it looked like you only installed one set of thrust washers 4th (from the front of the engine) journal? I'm guessing this is correct (only one set given the job they do - no additional needed), but wanted to confirm. Also, does it matter which position (3rd journal, 4th, etc.) that they go in? Thanks again and wonderful, detailed, informative series here. I've enjoyed every video. :-)
I don't believe there are reliefs for the thrust bearings at any other locations on the block. I use to do small block v8 builds and they typically use just the one set as well. Also when you buy the bearing sets they only include the pair. Thank you for watching and commenting!
On the rear balance shaft, is there a seal that goes on it before the small gear goes on it? Like the other side where the seal is already on the oil pump. I sprung a leak at the rear balance shaft and I can't figure out if there was a seal I forgot to put on that rear shaft.. I replaced the gasket that goes around the housing of the shaft with not a new one.. but a better one that was pretty used.. but still leaks like a good leak too.. when the car is on there's a good stream coming from in-between the balance shaft housing and the oil pump itself.. so I'm stumped trying to figure out where the leak is really coming from..
At 22:50 I point out a small O ring on the back of the pump that is in the area where you are describing your leak. I did not take the gear box apart, but there must be a seal around the shaft that the outer gear is connected to as well. If I thought the gear box was leaking around that shaft I would probably try replacing the whole thing. Sorry to hear you are having an issue. Let us know how it turns out.
How I do it is to make sure the ring compressor is as tight as it will go with the piston skirts showing about one inch on the bottom. Once I have it in to block, I tap around the top of the compressor to make sure the bottom is flush with the block and then tap the piston down with something wooden. Sometimes the rings pop out before the pison is down. Frustrating but keep at it. Good luck!
If I understand you right, the holes do not have to line up. They both oil the bearings and don't exchange oil to the other opening. Hope I answered that.
When you remove the thermostat housing (under the throttle body) will loosen the whole assembly. There is one bolt holding the pipe to the back of the block you need to remove. After that you just pull it out of the water pump.
@@ktecgarage Thanks for your quick response. I have the black striped down completely with pistons, rods and crank all remove. I also remove that bolt that secured the water pipe to the block but it seem like it's one assembly. So, I just need to pull the pipe and it will detach from the water pump housing?
Are you saying that the motor runs good until you accelerate? My first guess would be a blocked catalytic converter. Disconnect it and try accelerating. It will be loud but you can check that way.
Great videos, watching all of these before taking down my 2000 with low oil pressure. Do you still have your old pump? If so I'd be curious to see how much if any wear you can see on its insides there behind all the screws. Keep up the great work!
Unfortunately, I tossed it. It would have been helpful to take a look at the wear but time became an issue. Hopefully you only have a loose or clogged pick-up tube. Thanks for the comments and watching!
@@ktecgarage That's exactly what I'm hoping for as well. 225k on the original engine. Re-did the whole head not long ago from a pitted valve surface. Thinking of just going through the whole bottom end now for the fun of it. Rest of the car is in perfect condition, so why not! My only concern though is any ovaling of the cylinder walls. The F23 from what I read once was a little prone to that. Hopefully not though, last I looked I didn't have any piston skirt lines on the walls, but they definitely were smooth and close to being a mirror. Looking forward to the rest of your videos! Anything coming soon?
Hopefully the final video will be up next week. Had some major life changes since the last video so that got in the way. I would tell you if it cranked and ran but that would spoil the surprise!
@luvayeavocado5377 No. I just made sure that the head and block were still flat and that I had no scoring on journals and the cylinder walls that I could catch with a fingernail. Also. Evrn at that mileage, all the bearings still looked good. This was a budget rebuild all the way. If that were a classic Mustang that was actually worth some money. I would have sent everything off for machining.
This series has been such a gem. I'm in the process of making the decision to rebuild my f23a1 or drop a junkyard f23a1 in my 2000 Honda Accord LX. Back story: back in 2021 I was having overheating issues and found a crack in the radiator. Replaced it and the thermostat. Ran fine for a month or so, then began overheating again. This time, I found coolant excessively leaking from the weeping hole. Replaced the water pump and timing. Again, everything ran fine and then a couple of weeks later, it began running hot same as the last two times. I replaced the thermostat again, thinking maybe it was a dud. During that change, I also did an oil change. That's when I noticed the milky substance in the oil. I removed the valve cover to find more milky substances. At that point, I really didn't feel like bothering with the car anymore. I sold it. Fast forward to the present, I randomly seen the car for sale. Guy said it just had a head gasket replacement, new distributor, new battery, blah blah $1100 worth of work done, but died on him 2 weeks out of the shop. Couldn't get it to crank. I decided to buy it back for $600. I thought, well, I know this car, I worked on it, I know the timing was done 2 years ago with less than 15k miles on it, and I know she's a tough girl. Got her home, changed the oil, and it was a mess. Pure chocolate milk, thick milk. I did manage to get her started, actually drove her around for a few laps in my neighborhood, but noticed she started to run hot at idle. I wasn't far from home, less than a block. Got back, parked, checked the oil, and it was already mixing again. So, that lets me know, the head gasket replacement wasn't done correctly with the torque down bolts, possible cracked/warped head, or possible cracked/warped block. SO, back to the point, I'm trying to decide whether or not she's worth rebuilding. Facts are, she's had a blown head gasket for quite some time, she's been driven with a blown head gasket for at least 15k miles, and we know she still runs and drives currently even with a failed head gasket replacement. In your opinion, is she worth rebuilding or should I just swap her for another junkyard f23a1?
That's quiet a saga! Check the head and block with a straight edge like I show in one of those videos (I forget which one). If you can get a feeler gage at.003 under the straight edge, then find a junkyard one. Maybe check machine shops and see what they'd charge to deck it. If the gasket was already replaced, I'm betting it's out of spec. Good luck! Glad you enjoyed the series.
ua-cam.com/video/LxR9oZ7ML_E/v-deo.htmlsi=WJFSfkhiKLvoGASV
Here you go. I have another series on the head gasket and I show how to check the the head and block in this video.
@@ktecgarage Thanks man! I kind of figured that would be the answer. I’m in no rush to get it rebuilt, so this will be the start of my own journey. Your videos will help me get it done. I appreciate your knowledge and time you’ve invested in helping others like myself.
Rebuilding my f23a4 right now and I couldn't have done it without you. I appreciate it.
Awesome series. Have learned a great deal. An immense amount of work but you make it look fun.
Thank you! The best part wqs the satisfaction of using the car everyday after it was finished.
Hi Thank you for not editing out any of the steps in the rebuilding process. I'm currently rebuilding my F23 engine and I was able to follow along easily by watching your videos. It's my first time doing this and after watching your videos I felt like I've done it before.
Thank you! I'm very happy to hear the series was helpful to you.
@@ktecgarage You're welcome! Thanks again.
Your videos rock man. Without em. This 3 yr project woulda been a decade. Thank you for the quality videos. Everything matched for my f22a engine but the older accords didn't have crank position sensors. But other than that. Same engine and procedure. You did a great job. My engine spins clean with fresh parts, smooth and free thanks to your videos
Thank you so much for your comments! Everytime someone thanks me for the effort I put into those videos really makes my day. Glad to know it helped you out.
I keep rewatching these. Your make excellent videos. Keep up the good work!
You are the best man. I have been looking for a diy for sometime now and I finally found it. Just perfect. You're a life saver 🙏
Thank you for the kind words! Glad the videos helped you out.
Awesome job man. Really like the detail.
Thank you I put my truck washes on backwards you truly save me with this one thank you
I'm very glad to hear the video helped you out!
Thank you for watching and commenting!
It is more than “cosmetic” the purple degreaser removes the anodizing from the aluminum. Which keeps it from corroding; Turning Gray and white.
I Love The training
Glad you enjoyed the videos!
Man I'm gonna get to know you, just did sub frame, front and back and motor is being done as well . Just started the series
The quality gets a tad better.😉 Hope it helps you out.
i’m pretty sure the yamada name is the OE supplier of those oil pumps. my honda has that name on the oil pump too.
It is. I know way more now after finishing that job!
Right as I turned the AC fan up higher thinking man that's a little loud I hear 7:24 "I hope that fan's not too loud" at the exact perfect timing. I swear it on my life. Lol
We live in a simulation! 😄 Glad to hear you found the videos helpful. If you run into an issue with your rebuild, let me know.
@@ktecgarage Can do. Quick question. What do I do to the spot where the crank/main bearings go before I put them in. Do I sand it or just cleaning is enough
Just clean them. I used brake clean and wiped it with a clean cloth.
@@ktecgarage I just got my block back from a machine shop plus I have some extra brake cleaner from when I worked at goodyear
Thanks, great video.
Yamada is the original oil pump
yamada oil pump is what you get from the factory.
Yes it is. I tracked that info down and added it to the description. Thanks for watching!
Silly question but just confirming; there's only one set of thrust washers (13:15 min mark) that are installed? I see relief cuts in the block at the adjacent main journals, but it looked like you only installed one set of thrust washers 4th (from the front of the engine) journal? I'm guessing this is correct (only one set given the job they do - no additional needed), but wanted to confirm. Also, does it matter which position (3rd journal, 4th, etc.) that they go in?
Thanks again and wonderful, detailed, informative series here. I've enjoyed every video. :-)
I don't believe there are reliefs for the thrust bearings at any other locations on the block. I use to do small block v8 builds and they typically use just the one set as well. Also when you buy the bearing sets they only include the pair.
Thank you for watching and commenting!
On the rear balance shaft, is there a seal that goes on it before the small gear goes on it? Like the other side where the seal is already on the oil pump. I sprung a leak at the rear balance shaft and I can't figure out if there was a seal I forgot to put on that rear shaft.. I replaced the gasket that goes around the housing of the shaft with not a new one.. but a better one that was pretty used.. but still leaks like a good leak too.. when the car is on there's a good stream coming from in-between the balance shaft housing and the oil pump itself.. so I'm stumped trying to figure out where the leak is really coming from..
At 22:50 I point out a small O ring on the back of the pump that is in the area where you are describing your leak. I did not take the gear box apart, but there must be a seal around the shaft that the outer gear is connected to as well. If I thought the gear box was leaking around that shaft I would probably try replacing the whole thing.
Sorry to hear you are having an issue. Let us know how it turns out.
My son is having troubles getting the piston to tap down the cylinder ...any ideas as to what we can do. Thx
How I do it is to make sure the ring compressor is as tight as it will go with the piston skirts showing about one inch on the bottom. Once I have it in to block, I tap around the top of the compressor to make sure the bottom is flush with the block and then tap the piston down with something wooden.
Sometimes the rings pop out before the pison is down. Frustrating but keep at it.
Good luck!
Does the oil hole on the connecting rod have to be lined up with the oil hole in the crankshaft
If I understand you right, the holes do not have to line up. They both oil the bearings and don't exchange oil to the other opening. Hope I answered that.
How did you remove the water pipe on the back of the engine? I'm not sure how to get it off.
When you remove the thermostat housing (under the throttle body) will loosen the whole assembly. There is one bolt holding the pipe to the back of the block you need to remove. After that you just pull it out of the water pump.
@@ktecgarage Thanks for your quick response. I have the black striped down completely with pistons, rods and crank all remove. I also remove that bolt that secured the water pipe to the block but it seem like it's one assembly. So, I just need to pull the pipe and it will detach from the water pump housing?
Yes. It's just held in with an O ring.
@@ktecgarage Oh ok. Thanks for the help!
Hello, I have an honda f23 it doesn't take gas, when I have accelerated but it works normally in ralenti
Are you saying that the motor runs good until you accelerate? My first guess would be a blocked catalytic converter. Disconnect it and try accelerating. It will be loud but you can check that way.
what size bearings did you use?
Everything was standard (STD). The only time u need the .05 or .10 is when you have the crank milled.
Great videos, watching all of these before taking down my 2000 with low oil pressure. Do you still have your old pump? If so I'd be curious to see how much if any wear you can see on its insides there behind all the screws.
Keep up the great work!
Unfortunately, I tossed it. It would have been helpful to take a look at the wear but time became an issue. Hopefully you only have a loose or clogged pick-up tube. Thanks for the comments and watching!
@@ktecgarage That's exactly what I'm hoping for as well. 225k on the original engine. Re-did the whole head not long ago from a pitted valve surface. Thinking of just going through the whole bottom end now for the fun of it. Rest of the car is in perfect condition, so why not! My only concern though is any ovaling of the cylinder walls. The F23 from what I read once was a little prone to that. Hopefully not though, last I looked I didn't have any piston skirt lines on the walls, but they definitely were smooth and close to being a mirror.
Looking forward to the rest of your videos! Anything coming soon?
Hopefully the final video will be up next week. Had some major life changes since the last video so that got in the way. I would tell you if it cranked and ran but that would spoil the surprise!
Where are you located, man?
North Carolina
@@ktecgarage I'm in GA--I feel you on the 92 and sticky
You never used plastigage?
No. That would have been ideal, but I didn't.
@@ktecgarage did u have any of the parts checked like the cranshaft ? was it polished. was any parts sent off to a shop?
@luvayeavocado5377 No. I just made sure that the head and block were still flat and that I had no scoring on journals and the cylinder walls that I could catch with a fingernail. Also. Evrn at that mileage, all the bearings still looked good. This was a budget rebuild all the way. If that were a classic Mustang that was actually worth some money. I would have sent everything off for machining.
Yamada is factory oem part
It runs normally in slow motion, but when I have accelerated it turns off automatically.
Could you post a video of what it is doing?
@@ktecgarage ok I'll do it tomorrow morning, thank you.
Where did you bought the oil pump?
The oil pump came in the rebuild kit I purchased on Amazon. Evergreen Engine Parts makes the kit.