Thank you... the "top video" for Switch thermal paste does ONE.... of the three places. Didnt even know about the 3rd spot.... thank you for being thorough.
Thanks i was going to replace the thermal paste on my switch since i have to replace the battery. The big glob on the back of the metal plate seems like too much. But i hate the tri wing Y screws they strip out easily
Always disconnect the battery when working with the mainboard. I skipped forward to watching a metal screwdriver being used to pry up the CPU heat shield and seeing the battery still connected... yikes. A short on the mainboard (dropped screws as well) could damage it.Thanks for answering my question regarding the third location. :)
7:00 DO NOT put the standard thermal paste on the heat-pipe, the best solution is to use a thicker thermal putty as Nintendo did. They standard thermal paste you use on GPU/CPU has less thicker consistency, it requires a bit of mounting pressure to function as a good thermal conductive material, here the gap between the back-plate and the heat pipe is enough to put a whooping 1.5mm thermal pad! So your thermal paste won't really be ideal - Nintendo has engineers who designed the console and decided to use 2 different thermal pastes in it, a company that is mass-producing a console will not waste time, money and resources for nothing. There is a reason why the paste on top of the heat-pipe is thicker. I'd advice a thermal putty instead!
Hello :) I want to change my thermal paste and bought MX-4 which should be great. Now about the thermal putty replacement, everyone says take K5 Pro. But it's really hard to get here and what makes it even harder to look or alternatives, that I'm not from an English speaking country and they seriously use thermal paste and thermal putty as synonyms, so I can never be sure if that's what I want. Since you are an expert, maybe you know an alternative. I browsed Amazon for a while and my best guess was HJ700, HJ234 and HJ236.
People routinely run the system without even reinstalling the heat shield at all (usually for aesthetic reasons with a transparent shell); you'll be perfectly fine with normal thermal paste for all 3 locations.
@@jayjayhooksch1 My switch is cracked and a V1 model so it's pretty old and I overclock it regularly. I bought good thermal paste and all the screwdrivers to open it, because I thought It would be a good idea to change the old thermal paste. But then I read about the pink putty and it's so hard to figure out which one to buy or if it's even putty like for the gaps. The one everyone recommends is very expensive here. So I was too scared and didn't open it, are you sure you can use just normal thermal paste?
@@DieEineMieze Yea, I'm sure. Like I said, people run the system without a heat shield at all. Personally, I wouldn't run it without a heat shield, but I changed the thermal paste on my switch v1 (I don't overclock though) like 3 years ago with no problems. I've also switched the thermal paste on 4 switch lites with no problems. I use the same paste (mx-6) on all 3 locations in every device I've serviced.
I wonder if the Arctic MX-6 can be used between the lid and the heatpipe, since it's viscous too. + also if it's still ok to spread that with a spatula or if it's ok to also put the pea size since it's quite more viscous than the Arctic MX-4 kind of pastes.
HELP! I can't find a single way to remove the metal plate upon the processor. I saw a video in which they opened it by removing with a needle what looked like a plastic cover, but there's not anything lite that on my switch. I can't even do ehat you showed because there's no place to lift it. I really don't know what to do now 😢
To remove the metal plate over the CPU I used a very small flat head screwdriver. There are tiny metal tabs that need to be pushed in or bent out of the way. I pushed in with the screwdriver and pried up gently. Work your way around the plate one tab at a time. When the tabs are released the whole plate will slide to the left and lift out.
Thank you... the "top video" for Switch thermal paste does ONE.... of the three places. Didnt even know about the 3rd spot.... thank you for being thorough.
You're welcome! Glad to help.
Thank you, it was easy to follow
Glad to help!
Thanks i was going to replace the thermal paste on my switch since i have to replace the battery. The big glob on the back of the metal plate seems like too much. But i hate the tri wing Y screws they strip out easily
Always disconnect the battery when working with the mainboard. I skipped forward to watching a metal screwdriver being used to pry up the CPU heat shield and seeing the battery still connected... yikes. A short on the mainboard (dropped screws as well) could damage it.Thanks for answering my question regarding the third location. :)
7:00 DO NOT put the standard thermal paste on the heat-pipe, the best solution is to use a thicker thermal putty as Nintendo did. They standard thermal paste you use on GPU/CPU has less thicker consistency, it requires a bit of mounting pressure to function as a good thermal conductive material, here the gap between the back-plate and the heat pipe is enough to put a whooping 1.5mm thermal pad!
So your thermal paste won't really be ideal - Nintendo has engineers who designed the console and decided to use 2 different thermal pastes in it, a company that is mass-producing a console will not waste time, money and resources for nothing. There is a reason why the paste on top of the heat-pipe is thicker. I'd advice a thermal putty instead!
Hello :) I want to change my thermal paste and bought MX-4 which should be great.
Now about the thermal putty replacement, everyone says take K5 Pro. But it's really hard to get here and what makes it even harder to look or alternatives, that I'm not from an English speaking country and they seriously use thermal paste and thermal putty as synonyms, so I can never be sure if that's what I want.
Since you are an expert, maybe you know an alternative.
I browsed Amazon for a while and my best guess was HJ700, HJ234 and HJ236.
People routinely run the system without even reinstalling the heat shield at all (usually for aesthetic reasons with a transparent shell); you'll be perfectly fine with normal thermal paste for all 3 locations.
@@jayjayhooksch1 My switch is cracked and a V1 model so it's pretty old and I overclock it regularly. I bought good thermal paste and all the screwdrivers to open it, because I thought It would be a good idea to change the old thermal paste. But then I read about the pink putty and it's so hard to figure out which one to buy or if it's even putty like for the gaps. The one everyone recommends is very expensive here. So I was too scared and didn't open it, are you sure you can use just normal thermal paste?
Are you sure? Everyone says you should do that
@@DieEineMieze Yea, I'm sure. Like I said, people run the system without a heat shield at all. Personally, I wouldn't run it without a heat shield, but I changed the thermal paste on my switch v1 (I don't overclock though) like 3 years ago with no problems. I've also switched the thermal paste on 4 switch lites with no problems. I use the same paste (mx-6) on all 3 locations in every device I've serviced.
An easier way that i found out is that you can peel the copper/pink sticker and access the 3rd one without it being complicated.
thanks man!
Yw! Glad to help.
I wonder if the Arctic MX-6 can be used between the lid and the heatpipe, since it's viscous too. + also if it's still ok to spread that with a spatula or if it's ok to also put the pea size since it's quite more viscous than the Arctic MX-4 kind of pastes.
Arctic MX-6 should work great. I prefer to put a small amount and allow pressure to spread rather than manually spread.
Was gonna just replace the battery but for a 2018 switch I decided to repaste it too
Good idea!
HELP! I can't find a single way to remove the metal plate upon the processor. I saw a video in which they opened it by removing with a needle what looked like a plastic cover, but there's not anything lite that on my switch. I can't even do ehat you showed because there's no place to lift it. I really don't know what to do now 😢
To remove the metal plate over the CPU I used a very small flat head screwdriver. There are tiny metal tabs that need to be pushed in or bent out of the way. I pushed in with the screwdriver and pried up gently. Work your way around the plate one tab at a time. When the tabs are released the whole plate will slide to the left and lift out.
Thank you a lot man!