New subscriber, and I have a tip for removing chainring bolts: use your heat gun to soften the thread locker that the mfg uses. They come off much easier and with far less screech. Thanks!
Some people obsess so much over saving weight that it gets to the point that it seems a little like an ocd. The new saddle looks like a right old pos. I'll take comfort over a few grams lost any day!
I'm doing this exact sram red conversion on my Focus Mares. Just waiting for the Red crankset to arrive. I'll have to check out the other parts too. Can you still buy the TNI seatposts?
Why did you bought a steel bike, and not aluminum or cf? How dies it feel when riding? Choosing between al ans st and its 0,5kg difference. I'm riding usually on the normal roads, sometimes (10%) a little bit gravel. Im a little bit confused because i heard (but without own experience) a lot that steel is more comfortable as alu fir long rides Thx
Al Cowan yep, this is an old saddle I used to have on my Canyon. It saw me through a lot of rides with no problems so I think my bum has moulded itself to the shape of the saddle.
I’m still with my old Brooks leather saddle on the gravel bike. Once broken in, it is more comfortable then anything else: 300 g well spent. Having a competitively light steel bike is a tough quest, I’m afraid even with money being no object one wouldn’t reach UCIs limit. Still, I adore the ride quality of steel frames. Thank you for the great impression!
jimnyfuchs yeah, UCI limit is most definitely impossible for a steel gravel RLT... but still fun to see how far one can go without breaking the bank and still have a reliable bike.... to be continued ;)
Sure that, I'm looking foward to whatever you are going to do! I might try out titanium for a cx frame this year, but since I buy only frames with threaded botton bracket, I do have to look for quite some time. All the best for 2018, by the way!
I’m exactly like this ... Just Googled the seatpost, only Japanese sites came up. Anyone know if it’s available in Europe. I’ve only found one other in this weight class, in Europe, within reasonable price, a Procraft PRC SP2, and unsurprisingly it’s sold out everywhere.
I too have a steel gravel bike that I am trying to put on a diet. If you would have swapped a Rival BB30 crankset to a Force or Red BB30 crankset, wouldn't the weight savings be greater or the Red GXP crankset? And you would not have to use a GXP conversion BB, thus, not increasing that 60 grams. Would you say the PF30 crankset and BB has better performance besides the weight savings? I understand you went with the Red GXP crank because you had it as a spare lying around. I am interested because I also want to swap out my Apex 1 PF30 to a lighter crankset, however, the Force GXP cranksets are cheaper than the BB30 cranksets and I wonder if I should just stick with the BB30. Your thoughts? Thanks, excellent content here :)
A K if you don’t have any “extras” just laying around, I would go for the native BB30. Lighter as you pointed out... and using the same system as it’s design for should at least in theory minimize the risk for creaks and other problems. That being said the praxis conversion bottom bracket has been flawless for Mark. If you could save a good chunk of cash on the cranks, maybe you could take that saved money and make some other weight savings in other parts of the bike. Good luck and thanks! 🙏
Since I don't have any lightweight cranksets at my disposal, I'm thinking of replacing my Apex 1 PF30/BB30 crankset with a Red BB30 crankset. However, will the Red crankset work good with a 1x11 rear derailleur? In your vid here you are using a Red crankset with a 1x11 system, correct? The Sram Red crankset is originally for a 2x11 system, it works flawlessly with a 1x11? Did you have to make some adjustments or anything?
A K you need to swap the chainring to a 1x narrow wide chainring. The red spider is a standard 5-bolt pattern so there’s tons of option for chainrings.
Mark is running really heavy wheels on it now. He would be able to drop another 800g just on the wheels/tires and still have it gravel ready. Below 9kg will be tough... but doable I think.
ua-cam.com/video/Nhy7csE2xUk/v-deo.html .. saddle looked cyan at first but more minty now.... didn't seem to match the mint on the frame and my colorway alert went off
e pon ah, now I understand! True. It’s actually and old saddle painted to match Mark’s Field cycles bike. It’s actually don’t clash as bad in real life but not 100% match either. Good spot! 👌
590g! For something like 200 euro (minimum)? And the result is a cheap, uncomfortable, carbon saddle that looks worse and that at some point might snap under pressure? No thank you. (I can even accept the crank and seatpost switch. But changing something as important as your Brooks saddle. That you rely on as THE key contact point for hours and hours of comfortable riding. All to save something around 100g... that's just bad decision making. You'd empty more weight from the bike when you take a whizz! (Sorry... I know this is an old video and you're probably sick of hearing this stuff by now!)
awesome music at the end!
New subscriber, and I have a tip for removing chainring bolts: use your heat gun to soften the thread locker that the mfg uses. They come off much easier and with far less screech. Thanks!
Awesome! thanks for the tip 👌
Some people obsess so much over saving weight that it gets to the point that it seems a little like an ocd. The new saddle looks like a right old pos. I'll take comfort over a few grams lost any day!
I'm doing this exact sram red conversion on my Focus Mares. Just waiting for the Red crankset to arrive. I'll have to check out the other parts too. Can you still buy the TNI seatposts?
Hi! Where did you buy the seatpost TNI? I find it only on Japanese sites.
Aleksandr Pekhterev Yes unfortunately they don’t seem to be available outside Japan.
Mark got it through Amazon Japan I think.
Why did you bought a steel bike, and not aluminum or cf? How dies it feel when riding? Choosing between al ans st and its 0,5kg difference. I'm riding usually on the normal roads, sometimes (10%) a little bit gravel. Im a little bit confused because i heard (but without own experience) a lot that steel is more comfortable as alu fir long rides
Thx
It is really a long way from 10+ kg steel to sub 7 carbon :)
My buddy is selling this exact bike for $1200 but its a 56 which is way too big for my 5'9 self. Its the deal of a lifetime because its nice AF.
How does mark like the new saddle? Cambiums are kind of heavy but also comfortable
Al Cowan it’s actually an old saddle he use to have on his old canyon. Strangely I think he likes it better than the Brooks :p
Al Cowan yep, this is an old saddle I used to have on my Canyon. It saw me through a lot of rides with no problems so I think my bum has moulded itself to the shape of the saddle.
I’m still with my old Brooks leather saddle on the gravel bike. Once broken in, it is more comfortable then anything else: 300 g well spent. Having a competitively light steel bike is a tough quest, I’m afraid even with money being no object one wouldn’t reach UCIs limit. Still, I adore the ride quality of steel frames. Thank you for the great impression!
jimnyfuchs yeah, UCI limit is most definitely impossible for a steel gravel RLT... but still fun to see how far one can go without breaking the bank and still have a reliable bike.... to be continued ;)
Sure that, I'm looking foward to whatever you are going to do! I might try out titanium for a cx frame this year, but since I buy only frames with threaded botton bracket, I do have to look for quite some time. All the best for 2018, by the way!
I’m exactly like this ... Just Googled the seatpost, only Japanese sites came up. Anyone know if it’s available in Europe. I’ve only found one other in this weight class, in Europe, within reasonable price, a Procraft PRC SP2, and unsurprisingly it’s sold out everywhere.
I too have a steel gravel bike that I am trying to put on a diet. If you would have swapped a Rival BB30 crankset to a Force or Red BB30 crankset, wouldn't the weight savings be greater or the Red GXP crankset? And you would not have to use a GXP conversion BB, thus, not increasing that 60 grams. Would you say the PF30 crankset and BB has better performance besides the weight savings? I understand you went with the Red GXP crank because you had it as a spare lying around. I am interested because I also want to swap out my Apex 1 PF30 to a lighter crankset, however, the Force GXP cranksets are cheaper than the BB30 cranksets and I wonder if I should just stick with the BB30. Your thoughts? Thanks, excellent content here :)
A K if you don’t have any “extras” just laying around, I would go for the native BB30. Lighter as you pointed out... and using the same system as it’s design for should at least in theory minimize the risk for creaks and other problems.
That being said the praxis conversion bottom bracket has been flawless for Mark.
If you could save a good chunk of cash on the cranks, maybe you could take that saved money and make some other weight savings in other parts of the bike. Good luck and thanks! 🙏
Since I don't have any lightweight cranksets at my disposal, I'm thinking of replacing my Apex 1 PF30/BB30 crankset with a Red BB30 crankset. However, will the Red crankset work good with a 1x11 rear derailleur? In your vid here you are using a Red crankset with a 1x11 system, correct? The Sram Red crankset is originally for a 2x11 system, it works flawlessly with a 1x11? Did you have to make some adjustments or anything?
A K you need to swap the chainring to a 1x narrow wide chainring. The red spider is a standard 5-bolt pattern so there’s tons of option for chainrings.
How is the ebay carbon saddle holding up?
Aaron ___ still going strong, Mark has been riding it on his old bike over two years before this as well.
All that to save a little over 1 lb?
Joe Provence I know, it’s a huge chunk of grams right? ;)
Thats a nice video. Kinda like a good gauge to lighten my own bike. Perhaps urs can go down to 9kg. Thats my aim for my ultimate steel bike. Haha.
Mark is running really heavy wheels on it now. He would be able to drop another 800g just on the wheels/tires and still have it gravel ready.
Below 9kg will be tough... but doable I think.
what is the frame size? and what is you height?
Братец Шу frame size 59, mark is about 187-188 cm I think.
@@ridesofjapanHallo! length stemps? On video size frame 59?
You've sacrificed weight at the expense of colorway ... I'm conflicted.
e pon hehe what do you mean, don’t see the color change really? Everything is still greyish :)
ua-cam.com/video/Nhy7csE2xUk/v-deo.html .. saddle looked cyan at first but more minty now.... didn't seem to match the mint on the frame and my colorway alert went off
e pon ah, now I understand! True. It’s actually and old saddle painted to match Mark’s Field cycles bike.
It’s actually don’t clash as bad in real life but not 100% match either. Good spot! 👌
new wheels only.... the rest of this upgrades only makes sense if you pro racer...
i subscribed! i have a cyclocross too!
Its a gravel bike!
good bye children
10.7kg for a 1x bike with no fenders is pretty crap lol
You're missing the point
590g! For something like 200 euro (minimum)? And the result is a cheap, uncomfortable, carbon saddle that looks worse and that at some point might snap under pressure? No thank you. (I can even accept the crank and seatpost switch. But changing something as important as your Brooks saddle. That you rely on as THE key contact point for hours and hours of comfortable riding. All to save something around 100g... that's just bad decision making. You'd empty more weight from the bike when you take a whizz! (Sorry... I know this is an old video and you're probably sick of hearing this stuff by now!)
What a waste