Electrical connections, that are 20 years old or more... Use contact spray cleaner, also I use conductive grease on all electrical connections, and bulbs and sockets.
Thank you for the video I have a 68 charger and I took out my entire dashboard with frame apart. No one had a video of an A/C dash and heater /A/C box 68 charger so anything help.
Great video and channel, I am replacing my dash plates and putting in a radio delete plate so did as suggested all went well but now I have no power at ignition. I noticed what looks like a ground on the column which I haven’t bolted back up yet could that be the culprit or is there something cluster related I missed ?
Check the main power coming into your amp/volt gauge. Power comes from the firewall to it and it feeds down to the fuse box, so you should check to ensure your glass fuses under your glove box are still OK and didn't accidentally get shorted. Lastly yes there is a ground wire at the column that should be hooked up as these cars are very picky on the grounds as they don't have many attachment points. Side note, it won't hurt to add a few extra if you wanted to in the future!
@@98saleen Wow did not expect a reply that quickly, Thanks, oddly enough I did unbolt the fuse box in the glove while doing the panels so will check there first. Thanks again for all your info should be able to sort it out with the info you provided
@@98saleenAs soon as I connected the alt gauge I got power so my issue now is I am working on the car and wanted to be able to move it without having the cluster in . I read on forums to just join the two wires which in my opinion could cause a fire or be a fire hazard that and I don’t want to cut off the factory connectors to join the wires for a temporary fix. I assume the only thing to do is to put the cluster back ?
@@DC-zh5zl Yes you can simply connect the wires together using a small screw/bolt/etc and then wrap it with tape to keep it from shorting out while you keep the cluster removed. That will keep the 12 volt circuit active and you can crank/move car no problem.
I changed all my interior lights to led except the dash back lights. I haven’t even opened the dash to look but I noticed you changed to green. Are all the bulbs back there just normal bulb originally? And how many do I need to order? Mines a 69 SE
It's been a while since I did this, but I think I needed 5 for the cluster. I used a standard bulb for my emergency brake light. You need the green ones for the cluster backlight. You can also use the green ones for your turn signals. But you need to use a standard bulb for your high beam since it is red, that is what I did anyway.
Thanks for the video! I own a 68 charger & I have a question. I have a light issue. My high beam lights, tail lights, & brake lights are not working. I replaced floor dimmer switch, replaced all headlights & tail bulbs & still nothing. I replaced brake light switch also. In the beginning I believe the brake light switch was my problem because after parking, my brake lights stayed on would run my battery down. That was the start of my problem. Recently I replaced my fuse clips because they were really rusted & thought maybe that was the culprit but now the #2 fuse counting top to bottom blows every time I push the floor dimmer switch. I don't believe it was always doing that. Just though since you've got experience working on your charger you might help. Oh & I did just buy a new headlight switch from year one but haven't tried to install it. That's how I found your video. What ya think would a headlight switch impact the tail/brake lights as well? The bright beam light on the dash comes on even though the high beams themselves don't.
If pressing the high beam switch blows the fuse, then you have a electrical short in that circuit. Check to see if a wire is rubbed thru touching metal somewhere. These old cars have brittle wires and it's easy to see the protective covering cracked and exposing the wire inside. Next grab a multimeter and check the voltage going to each light socket. See if you are getting a 10-12 volt DC reading or if you are getting zero. Keep tracing back the signal to the fuse block to find where the voltage starts and stops. You should be able to find the break in the system such as a bad switch, broken wire, etc. Good luck!
THANK YOU SO MUCH, I have the exact symptoms you described - no dash lights, but turn the tumblewheel all the way and the dome light comes on. I had the need for another order from classic, so I'll add this one too. I also have the headlight switch heat up pretty bad, and smoke starts to come from behind the cluster, but only when the headlights are on. I hope it's just the switch, but could it be something else? One more thing, is it inevitable that you have to undo the steering column bolts? Do you think there's a possibility of replacing the dimmer without lowering the column? Anyway, this video will help me a lot when the parts come, thank you again!
In order to pull the cluster without damage, you must lower the steering column. I know it's a pain, but your cluster is fragile so don't break it! If you switch is drawing too many amps it can smoke and heat up. Check all your wiring and make sure your lights are not overrated (too many watts) such as a brighter than recommended bulb, etc.
There is a lot of current flowing through that switch when the headlights are on. Current equals heat. You really should add relays to the circuit. There are many articles available on how to do it. Here is a good one. www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=168.0
Nice video! Getting ready to do some updates to mine after 20 years. Could the dash harness be replaced just by removing the cluster the way you did or does the whole dash need removed?
You can do a lot by removing the cluster, but if you are trying to change everything, then removing the dash is the way to go. From what I've seen/read, you should have the windshield taken out to allow you access to the screws to remove the dash properly. I've never done it but alot of guys say that is the time and best method.
It's so satisfying to fix something back into working order. Unfortunately, like your 68, my 69, everything cost a small fortune.
For sure! Those parts for these cars are pricey! Going back to this video, my lights are still working great. Car has been running great.
Wow that was a very informative video, I have a rebuilt dimmer switch that I feel like I will be able to replace now. Thanks
Excellent video!! Gotta replace the harness on my 69 hopefully it’s similar process.
Thanks. I try to show stuff and how I work around it to help others. There is not a lot out there on these cars.
I think you just saved me on my 1970 Super Bee. I'll follow-up and let you know for sure.
Right on! Good luck! I sub'd to your channel.
Electrical connections, that are 20 years old or more... Use contact spray cleaner, also I use conductive grease on all electrical connections, and bulbs and sockets.
Great video
Thanks! Hope it was helpful!
Nice little upgrades!!!!
Thank you for the video I have a 68 charger and I took out my entire dashboard with frame apart. No one had a video of an A/C dash and heater /A/C box 68 charger so anything help.
Great! I agree when I did mine there was nothing I could find either, so I decided to throw something together that might help.
Great video and channel, I am replacing my dash plates and putting in a radio delete plate so did as suggested all went well but now I have no power at ignition. I noticed what looks like a ground on the column which I haven’t bolted back up yet could that be the culprit or is there something cluster related I missed ?
Check the main power coming into your amp/volt gauge. Power comes from the firewall to it and it feeds down to the fuse box, so you should check to ensure your glass fuses under your glove box are still OK and didn't accidentally get shorted. Lastly yes there is a ground wire at the column that should be hooked up as these cars are very picky on the grounds as they don't have many attachment points. Side note, it won't hurt to add a few extra if you wanted to in the future!
@@98saleen Wow did not expect a reply that quickly, Thanks, oddly enough I did unbolt the fuse box in the glove while doing the panels so will check there first. Thanks again for all your info should be able to sort it out with the info you provided
@@DC-zh5zl Happy to help! Good luck! Post some vids/pics when finished.
@@98saleenAs soon as I connected the alt gauge I got power so my issue now is I am working on the car and wanted to be able to move it without having the cluster in . I read on forums to just join the two wires which in my opinion could cause a fire or be a fire hazard that and I don’t want to cut off the factory connectors to join the wires for a temporary fix. I assume the only thing to do is to put the cluster back ?
@@DC-zh5zl Yes you can simply connect the wires together using a small screw/bolt/etc and then wrap it with tape to keep it from shorting out while you keep the cluster removed. That will keep the 12 volt circuit active and you can crank/move car no problem.
I changed all my interior lights to led except the dash back lights. I haven’t even opened the dash to look but I noticed you changed to green. Are all the bulbs back there just normal bulb originally? And how many do I need to order? Mines a 69 SE
It's been a while since I did this, but I think I needed 5 for the cluster. I used a standard bulb for my emergency brake light. You need the green ones for the cluster backlight. You can also use the green ones for your turn signals. But you need to use a standard bulb for your high beam since it is red, that is what I did anyway.
@@98saleen thanks for the reply and info!
Thanks for the video! I own a 68 charger & I have a question. I have a light issue. My high beam lights, tail lights, & brake lights are not working. I replaced floor dimmer switch, replaced all headlights & tail bulbs & still nothing. I replaced brake light switch also. In the beginning I believe the brake light switch was my problem because after parking, my brake lights stayed on would run my battery down. That was the start of my problem. Recently I replaced my fuse clips because they were really rusted & thought maybe that was the culprit but now the #2 fuse counting top to bottom blows every time I push the floor dimmer switch. I don't believe it was always doing that. Just though since you've got experience working on your charger you might help. Oh & I did just buy a new headlight switch from year one but haven't tried to install it. That's how I found your video. What ya think would a headlight switch impact the tail/brake lights as well?
The bright beam light on the dash comes on even though the high beams themselves don't.
If pressing the high beam switch blows the fuse, then you have a electrical short in that circuit. Check to see if a wire is rubbed thru touching metal somewhere. These old cars have brittle wires and it's easy to see the protective covering cracked and exposing the wire inside. Next grab a multimeter and check the voltage going to each light socket. See if you are getting a 10-12 volt DC reading or if you are getting zero. Keep tracing back the signal to the fuse block to find where the voltage starts and stops. You should be able to find the break in the system such as a bad switch, broken wire, etc. Good luck!
THANK YOU SO MUCH, I have the exact symptoms you described - no dash lights, but turn the tumblewheel all the way and the dome light comes on. I had the need for another order from classic, so I'll add this one too. I also have the headlight switch heat up pretty bad, and smoke starts to come from behind the cluster, but only when the headlights are on. I hope it's just the switch, but could it be something else?
One more thing, is it inevitable that you have to undo the steering column bolts? Do you think there's a possibility of replacing the dimmer without lowering the column?
Anyway, this video will help me a lot when the parts come, thank you again!
In order to pull the cluster without damage, you must lower the steering column. I know it's a pain, but your cluster is fragile so don't break it! If you switch is drawing too many amps it can smoke and heat up. Check all your wiring and make sure your lights are not overrated (too many watts) such as a brighter than recommended bulb, etc.
There is a lot of current flowing through that switch when the headlights are on. Current equals heat. You really should add relays to the circuit. There are many articles available on how to do it. Here is a good one.
www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=168.0
@@johnmorrison1133 WOW that is a good one! That explains exactly how to do it.
Nice video! Getting ready to do some updates to mine after 20 years. Could the dash harness be replaced just by removing the cluster the way you did or does the whole dash need removed?
You can do a lot by removing the cluster, but if you are trying to change everything, then removing the dash is the way to go. From what I've seen/read, you should have the windshield taken out to allow you access to the screws to remove the dash properly. I've never done it but alot of guys say that is the time and best method.