Good ol welding cable, that is what we used in the 1980s before all the fancy car audio wire came out. It has lots of strands, very flexible compared to house wire at the time.
#SlappaDaBass - Brother 3RD ERA in the comments. I already have my HiFi Stage 3 kit and it will be going into my 4Runner when I get my Mechman 340 amp alternator next week.
I know it would be considered Stage 4, but you should definitely do a ground from the Alternator as well since you did the positive. It only makes sense since all the power died come from the Alternator. You might as well ground that too. Great video by the way.
If you can find a good quality supplier at a good price, I know that's the hard part lol, maybe you could carry that hammer crimper tools and a few types of battery terminals like the side post GMC/Chevrolet style. Your wire chart is exactly what we've been needing since I bought my first run 2AWG cable in 1992 while I was in high school.. I paid $2ft back then, lol
i plan on not having my car audio system and battery being charged by the alternator i will only be using a monoblock subwoofer amplifier with a fifty amp fuse and have a 14v 225amp lithium titanate oxide battery bank and charge it with a house plugin charger
Love the videos hifi!! I had a question on the car you did this upgrade, I'm putting an amp in the trunk and can't find a way to run the power wire. Do you have any suggestions or let me know how you ran yours? Thx
Question.. when you ground the engine block isn't there no need to send a ground from the alternator case to the negative battery post? I see people doing both but really don't see the point considering the alternator is mounted to the engine block.
While not absolutely required since you’ll already have a engine block/chassis ground. It is my preference to also have a alternator ground directly to the battery as well, but I can’t say for sure that there is a huge gain from it vs not doing it.
@@HifiVega I feel like I'm going to just do it. Lol. My alternator is just in the worst spot. 02 Toyota sequoia. Passenger side on the bottom of the engine block. I have to go under the car and run a decent amount of ofc to reach the battery. Got the positive to positive battery, block to ground, negative to ground already.
What if there's a fuse and relay Box in between the alternated charging cable and the battery positive? Should I bypass the box or just upgrade both wires?
What is your opinion on if the positive to alternator positive run shoud be fused or not? And if so, just a fuse rated at the alternator output amperage or slightly over? Thanks
I recommend having a fuse when doing the big 3. You can size it to your alternators out put if you want, but I like to fuse it to what the wire can handle as it’s just there to keep your car from burning down if something goes wildly wrong.
So can you still leave the stock engine block ground if it's not easy to access? And just add the big 3 ground to the existing one? My battery ground and alt power isn't an issue if I had to replace.
Ground the alt for better voltage
Good ol welding cable, that is what we used in the 1980s before all the fancy car audio wire came out. It has lots of strands, very flexible compared to house wire at the time.
Still a solid budget choice
@@HifiVega I have a 1985 Pontiac fiero with welding cable still in it from 1990.
I love those harbor freight screwdrivers. I’ve used them forever
They’re great
HifiVega sicker = +10 db
Haha
#SlappaDaBass - Brother 3RD ERA in the comments. I already have my HiFi Stage 3 kit and it will be going into my 4Runner when I get my Mechman 340 amp alternator next week.
Can’t wait to see that!
I actually prefer the hammer crimp. Just gotta keep the wire and the terminal snug
It’s a dead simple way to get a solid connection
@@HifiVega exactly!
Great upload HifiVega!!! Super stoked and can’t wait to get my kit in the mail!! #SlappaDaBass
Yeah buddy!
Bruh you been on a MILK CARTON 3RD ERA!!! Where u at fam??
The HifiVega sticker added 10dB more 🔊
Keep it coming man
Nice work BROTHER
I know it would be considered Stage 4, but you should definitely do a ground from the Alternator as well since you did the positive. It only makes sense since all the power died come from the Alternator. You might as well ground that too. Great video by the way.
If you can find a good quality supplier at a good price, I know that's the hard part lol, maybe you could carry that hammer crimper tools and a few types of battery terminals like the side post GMC/Chevrolet style. Your wire chart is exactly what we've been needing since I bought my first run 2AWG cable in 1992 while I was in high school.. I paid $2ft back then, lol
in 94 i paid $5 a foot for 1/0 and the big thing twizted rcas and they were $50 . in 96ish i got my crossfire bmf15s and a pair of crossfire 1100 amps
I didn't realize you leave the factory power wire. Thank you Rob!
Some people don’t, but I like to do it that way personally.
I'd imagine more wire better current, makes sense to me!
Well thought out kit , very nice !
Cheers!
Great video
Thanks
El Flamer followed this vid and his car blew up! Oh well, he will win one from Kicker…. Great vid WifiVega, and as always, 14.4V TALK > 12v talk🤡🤡🤡
@Thomas Marshall heard he’s selling the extra shirts on eBay
@Thomas Marshall don’t hate the playa hate the RIGGEDDDDDDD contest, amirite
@@25hztolife14 this thread is full of 14.4V TALK… me, 25, and TM “our security guard”
@@25hztolife14 true dat 14.4 V TALK is a MOVEMENT…. The OG3 know whuttup 🤡🤡🤡🤡
Great video!!!! I have same yr and model car as my daily and I'm getting ready to put small system in it.
You da 👨 !!!
My favorite thing is to ground the battery and engine at the same point on chassis or frame.
Just make sho you get a body to frame too and you’re golden!
Good video very precise straight to the point,,,, but had to buy $80 worth of tools for a $50
That’s how it be sometimes lol
Have you ever had to get 1/0 into 1/0 lug,,, without ferals,,,, I figured out how to do it without losing one strand or crimping
$8 blowtorch and $10 lead free solder I'll start making my own videos soon 😅😅😅😅😅
@@FrankStPeter yeah it can be done if you’re careful
Simpler than I thought it would be. How long did it take you to do it all from start to finish?
Took me just over an hour with filiming and all. I suspect this will be a 45min for most everyone else
Well done!
Hyundai/Kia have a chassis to transmission ground too.
Great vid
Thanks!
i plan on not having my car audio system and battery being charged by the alternator i will only be using a monoblock subwoofer amplifier with a fifty amp fuse and have a 14v 225amp lithium titanate oxide battery bank and charge it with a house plugin charger
Love the content!
👍👍
👍
Love the videos hifi!! I had a question on the car you did this upgrade, I'm putting an amp in the trunk and can't find a way to run the power wire. Do you have any suggestions or let me know how you ran yours? Thx
I drilled a hole in the fire wall and used a grommet
@@HifiVega oh ok, I was thinking about drilling beside the brake booster but wasn't sure. Thanks alot! Keep up with the great videos 👍
Question.. when you ground the engine block isn't there no need to send a ground from the alternator case to the negative battery post? I see people doing both but really don't see the point considering the alternator is mounted to the engine block.
While not absolutely required since you’ll already have a engine block/chassis ground. It is my preference to also have a alternator ground directly to the battery as well, but I can’t say for sure that there is a huge gain from it vs not doing it.
@@HifiVega I feel like I'm going to just do it. Lol. My alternator is just in the worst spot. 02 Toyota sequoia. Passenger side on the bottom of the engine block. I have to go under the car and run a decent amount of ofc to reach the battery. Got the positive to positive battery, block to ground, negative to ground already.
What if there's a fuse and relay Box in between the alternated charging cable and the battery positive?
Should I bypass the box or just upgrade both wires?
You can run your big 3 along side, but you’ll have to add a fuse if you want that connection to be fused
Power wire without a fuse is a good way to burn down your car.
I need one.
www.hifivega.com
What is your opinion on if the positive to alternator positive run shoud be fused or not? And if so, just a fuse rated at the alternator output amperage or slightly over? Thanks
I recommend having a fuse when doing the big 3. You can size it to your alternators out put if you want, but I like to fuse it to what the wire can handle as it’s just there to keep your car from burning down if something goes wildly wrong.
So can you still leave the stock engine block ground if it's not easy to access? And just add the big 3 ground to the existing one? My battery ground and alt power isn't an issue if I had to replace.
Yes you can
@@HifiVega thanks 👍👍
Is it okay to remove the factory wire from the alt?
Yeah you can add to it or just remove and replace