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- Опубліковано 14 лют 2018
- Dave reviews and tears down the $300 Quick 861DW hot air rework station. How much better is it than the $70 Atten 858D+ ?
Louis Rossmann's video:
• Quick 861DW vs Hakko F...
www.rossmanngroup.com/quick861dw
kit.com/EEVblog/soldering-equ...
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Upon rewatching, by far the best part of this video is the enthusiasm Dave shows at removing the Vanta. I love it!!
So enthusiastic it seems, I lost my balls.
It's OK Dave, Louis is always misplacing his balls :)
@@EEVblog balls... oh - balls!!! ua-cam.com/video/iwrzK0nX1bg/v-deo.html
couple days ago i removed south bridge from PC motherboard just using cheap HAG but with help of my kitchen electric stove as pre-heater - it was really simple but mobo now screwed like propeller blade :) :) :)
ru.aliexpress.com/item/220V-240V-450W-450-Degree-LCD-Adjustable-Electronic-Heat-Hot-Air-Gun-Desoldering-Soldering-Station-IC/32272327737.html
Hey Louis and Dave, I own a rework/solder station and have the same issue with flickering (fluorescent) lights in my workshop. I did some investigating with a power meter and in my case at least it is caused by the logic board modulating the heating element on/off in short pulses once it is up to temperature to keep it at temp. Taking the heater off the stand also causes my lights to dim, placing it back in the holder fixes that issue immediately (while the fan is still cooling it down). The entire workshop is on one breaker, separating the lighting from the outlets at the breaker panel should solve the issue.
Really surprised to see a brushless motor in there.
How would conducted or radiated noise cause lights to flicker? It's obviously just the current draw when the heater turns on & off
Exactly! Brushless motors are everywhere now...
mikeselectricstuff Exactly, I have much weaker hot air station which does the same. It uses a TRIAC in leading edge phase fired controller circuit, which is the source of that flicker.
yea, 110v sucks
Yes, Louis needs to not run that on the same circuit as the lights.
When I'm down in some old cellars doing my work with a 2kW hot air gun, the lights flicker like crazy. Old wimpy wiring and long runs from the breaker panel tends to do that to you.
Induction does strange things :P
Louis and Dave working together in the same room on cam would blow up youtube
Dave and Louis joining in a rant would be interesting to see :)
Bigclivedotcom will show up to keep them in line.
Well, probably will make it worse! :)
Actually, I think it would be quite comical. Have you ever seen Louis and Jessa before? Bloody hilarious.
As long as he is bringing the bubbly wine I think all will be well!
yea right they would do all talk no work like always... these dudes everyone look up to need to learn better soldering skills they are both horrible with soldering iron imho.
Thumbs up for association with Mr. Rossman. Having Dave and Louis in a combined video-something would get invented on the spot. Two guys I respect.
sycophant
Louis Rossmann is what you'd call a straight shooter. Super detailed repair videos and the occasional random life lessons. Definitely worth subscribing.
Life lessons learned from repairing branded pricey crap, yeah :D
Misty Moo Not everybody likes to beat around the bush (even when it's completely unnecessary, useless and even counterproductive) all their lives you know....
Misty Moo I like him. I don't think he'd be my friend in a hurry but I respect what he does and how he gets things across.
zivizivi he calls bullshit when he sees it, shame you all can't deal with it. Then again, you're hardly worth it.
Ollie B why do you care so much if we are not worth. too much drama and nothing real to learn or gain from his content. just a guy loves to listen to his own voice. and the real bullshit is trying to sell crap from youtube.
Once again sir you hit on ALL the key points that allow me to justify purchasing a tool like this. So entertaining AND informative. Thank you again Dave! You are just flat out AWESOME!
I bought one on the advise of Louis, really a great product.
I was following Dave some years before Louis, i'm glad to see this review on this product from Dave too.
I bought one of these soon after Louis's review. It is indeed very good. Compared to my existing rework station no contest for desoldering large components and BGA's and such there's simply no contest. Also Louis, is a great channel. He's a good guy and for someone who's much older than him I've gotten a few life lessons too. I like his cats too :)
Louis' advice: Wait for the chip to dance (move) before you remove it. I made the same mistake until I saw Louis do it. I have learned loads from his content
You didn't seem to like the angle of the fan, even though you didn't criticize it. I think I see the method behind the madness of the designers. I think the placing of the fan enables it to suck cold air over the components that get hot before it gets heated and blown out of the nozzle at a PC board. Brilliant ingenuity. I take my hat off to them.
It is always a pleasure to watch somebody who knows what he is talking about, and it is a pleasure watching you. Keep it up mate :)
Pretty sure Louis' issue is that a US circuit is only 15A @ 120V, so 1000W is a pretty good chunk of that. The big disadvantage of 120V and small (14ga / 2sqmm) wire. Not uncommon at all to see lights dip here in North America when a bit load is switched in
It could be, but a JBC JT-A at full power causes zero flickering. Maybe the Quick is more powerful, but I don't think it is *that* more powerful. As much as I love my Quick I have to acknowledge that the $1200+ price difference comes from cheaping out on the power supply.
Boffin A typical 120V US circuit may be either 15A (1800W, #14 copper minimum) or 20A (2400W, #12 copper minimum), both are quite common though in very old structures the 15A circuit was much more typical since in the first half of the 20th century a typical household load consisted of lights, a radio, later a TV, and the occasional clothes iron or vacuum and that was about it outside of the kitchen. However, the tendency towards flicker really depends a lot upon where in the AC cycle the heating element is being powered on. I would imagine they are using a random phase triac driver, which means you can be switching on a high powered heating element right at the AC peaks with fair regularity and if your circuit is already loaded down or has a fairly long run back to the mains panel then you can get noticeable flicker, particularly with fluorescent and LED lighting. You might well be able to get away with swapping the random phase triac driver for a zero-crossover driver and resolve the flicker issue so long as long as the temperature regulation loop is not adversely altered.
>cheaping out on the power supply
there is no power supply, heating element is directly switched to the mains
rasz exactly
Boffin Also it is an old NYC piece of shit building, probably just like 3 breakers for the whole place and 16awg wire
I thought it was going to be yet another noisy aquarium pump hot air gun , but I'm surprised. It whooshes very well
Dave and Louis are both awesome. It's nice to see some collaboration between them.
Hot air was one of my special skills!! Pre-heat bed and hot air gun and I could rework QFD devices, and BGA devices by hand, and I was tagged as the "expert" in my group.
It can be a really really TRICKY skill!
SOT packages, 0201 SMDs, of course 0402, 0603 and larger got to be a piece of cake.
It's quite common for these stations to "hide" bad temperature regulation and give you a nice, round reading as long as the temp. is inside a small window :)
its mianzi, aka lying in your face being more polite than bringing bad news, classic chinese
Same with cheap chinese scales. They're good value for the price, but absolutely not in the professional instruments league. I can't imagine that someone would seriously suggest this as equipment in real lab :-)
When I read the title I thought "Quick" was referring to the review itself, and I was thinking "37 minutes isn't a quick review..."
Thought the same. "classic Dave, puts the word "quick" in a 30+min video" :D
Questions, would the fact that it is higher temp inside of the Nozzle have anything todo with the loss of heat as the air travels to the component? I am looking at get a rework station. Never used one.
Dave and Louis...Two of my favorites!
The light flickering is probably from the 1000W heating element being switched on and off. My $40 chinese reflow station does it, as well as my laser printer and laminator.
what reflow station do you have? do you recommend it for hobbyist? i dont have the 300$ to spend
Man my laser printer does! I can't believe how much current that thing sucks down when it's warming up. I'm surprised it doesn't trip a breaker.
I have one of the youyue 858D reflow stations. It works fine for hobby use.
Just be sure to check that the ground and the fuse is wired correctly if you get one.
Check the optocoupler that drives the triac of AC heating element to see if is a zero cross type rather than a random phase that placed by mistake and causes the room light flickering.
It's great to see collaborative youtubing. Well done sir Dave!
Hello, you seem very knowledgeable of this product. I have this station as well and it's no longer heating properly. I replaced the heating element, and it did not fix it. It's barley heating at all. What is the most likely part that's causing it to not regulate the temp?
Than you for sending Louis your multimeter. To bad he only used it 2 times on camera.
Hey, at least 3! :p I switched over to the B&K for the ability to see it on screen :)
Which one: the 121GW or the other one? 'Cause the 121GW has Bluetooth Data Logging, it would be a good substitute of the B&K
I doubt it would integrate with Louis' Open Broadcaster software as tidily as his usual DMM does, and Louis is many things but I don't think he's got the patience to program a connector :-)
PhilfreezeCH with an Open Broadcaster plug-in?
I love Louis 's channel, great life lessons and lessons on board level smd repair work all round. ......... also time is money, the quick 861DW will earn back itself in a week if you are a professional.
When you turn the holder around, you can pull the nozzle and have it cached in the cup. What for not having hot metal things rolling all over your bench. ;)
Do you think it would help the light flickering by adding a Ferrite Toroids choke to the switching cables?
I've got an identical unit as the Atten but called Hiyko. It doesn't display the overshoot of Dave's Atten and doesn't give me problems with the sleep detection. Could just be smoothing the temp value more or maybe improved control firmware?
I've had mine for several months now and it's great!
I'm a behringer at air soldering. Can I get some recommend tutorial videos for assembling PCBs (not rework)?
I'm mostly doing 0805 and 0603. Pcb heater plate essential, how to spread solder paste etc?
What if you remove the reed switch from the atten and replace it with a simple toggle you have to hold down to run it?
Not even watched it yet, but thank you Louis been waiting for this since he mentioned he sent you one. I have been trying to get a filter right to kill the feedback that messes with the lights since I got mine.
First off. Shout out to Louis and Dave, both excellent youtubers in their respective categories!
9:43 Isnt that sleeving around the wires for heat protection?
those copper traces that came up with the nvidia chip, they seemed intact, could you apply some some sort of epoxy blue to the traces, and stick them back to the board ?
I was using a heat gun in my server room to test some temperature alarm points and noticed the lights flickering too, I think it's because these type of devices just modulate on/off instead of just adjusting the voltage to the element.
The trick with these is the careful application of heat and not damaging all the surrounding parts. I generally pre-heat the whole board slowly before going for the lift. I also have high temp silicon sheets that I use to mask the target area. It does no good if you damage the PCB or other components. Liquid or gel flux is critical IMHO.
KAPTON TAPE FTW!
Kriss Olshaq I use Kapton tape as well, but I also rather like the idea of using silicone sheets, so I may have to give that a try one of these days.
I use piles of Kapton tape as well. The silicon, in many cases, is easier to just flop a strip or donut shaped piece on top.
400C at full airflow seems a bit excessive but I can't fault the speed, especially for the big FETs. I've used whatever hot air station Sparkfun sells before but this one definitely seems worth the added cost.
I have the sparkfun station & use it for repairs. Gets you there, cost me 200 plus COD charges in Canada.
I have question the parts that you removed off the boards could they, for example, be reused or were they just a one-shot removal for an example replacing one part for a new part type of replacement not ever used hot air tools for part replacement or board build.
Good review, would be interesting to see a review on one of Quick's 90W soldering stations.
For the mains simulator, could you put an isolation transformer behind it to not trip the RCD?
I bought a Quick 861DA about 8 weeks before Louis got his... i'd been deliberating on it for weeks. Glad I made the right choice. Wholly justified by your review too Dave. Odd thing is I get the same light flicker as Louis.. keep up the good work :)
One correction, airflow on the DW model is only 120 (like it says in the display). The DE model of the 861 series is a 200 L version (and 1200 watts instead of 1000 on the DW). And on the DE the LCD setting goes to 200 (as expected).
861DW has 120l/min, Atten I think only has 24l/min.
Nice fair review Dave. Stand was being used backwards, recessed bin area will catch tip when removed hot.
Yay, Dave! Atten consumes 280w and delivers 28l/m. It is standart blower fan, equipped in most of chinese soldering stations.
I had to laugh at the "LEAD FREE" stencil.
I'd guess the flickering lights is from the heating element. When it's cold from being off or cooled down from being in the rest, it's going to surge the element at full power to bring the heat up as quick as possible, then likely PWM the power to the element to maintain heat. I see the same with my cheapo heat gun like the one you have. My entire bench is on an APC 1500va SmartUPS. When the heat gun 1st comes in it nearly maxes out the load the UPS can take for a few seconds, then it levels out to a much lower power draw depending on the temperature set
I've used Aoyue 968 for the last 11 years. Had to replace the soldering iron part of the station, but as for that, it's been a trooper. My only complaint is there is some radio noise around 150Mhz and again at 155Mhz that interferes with my testing of radios. I usually have to program the radios to something else so it doesn't get interference.
I got mine QUICK 861DW a few days ago. For my unpleasant surprise, the airflow controll on this brand new unit seemed to be stuck on max. level. If I went below 112, the fan just stopped and a few beeps later it showed "ERR" message on the display. Upon closer inspection of the motor driver board, I noticed that the R59 timing resistor is simply missing. Since my attempts to measure the value of the C53 were unsuccesfull, I just assumed it to be 10nF. According the MC33035DW datasheet, fig.1, with 10nF cap @ 25khz, the timing resistor should be around 4,7k. so I teporarily soldered one in between pins 8 and 10, and voila...no more error messages and the airflow controll appears to be working just fine too. But just in case, could someone please look at the original value of the R59 on the motor drive board and post it here?? thanks very much...
You don't use flux when removing parts?
Speaking of graphics cards does anyone know where to get mini HDMI ports the EVGA cards use? I found some on Ebay from Australia but they want 15 bucks a piece. I can't figure out where they are getting them from.
Don't really need flux for a hot air removal; heat transfer is through a large volume of hot moving air, rather than a small stationary contact point with a soldering iron. Flux _could_ be useful (very slightly anyway) for thermally connecting parts that would otherwise by physically insulated by a small air gap that the flux could fill. However, in practice I doubt most technicians bother all that often for a straight removal, though I notice Louis often does as a sort of tell for when the chip is up to temperature.
With all that said, I'm looong out of the industry, maybe we're all meant to be using flux all the time now.
anyone have a link to compatible nozzles or are the 3 it comes with all there is?
honestly that temp memory feature on the quick is useful. I have an older cheaper model and switching between desoldering temps and lower temps for just melting stuff or shrink is a pain, many of times have I grabbed mine without thinking just to hit some heat shrink and its set at 400C
I bought an 858D. But I bought it only for heat shrink tubing. I’ve got some good guns, but for smaller wires and such, they’re too big and overkill. Never tried it on surface mount components. It does come with several sizes of nozzles. The temp setback does work. Also, I got it on eBay for a bit over $40, shipped. Seriously, for $40, it’s pretty good. This model is available from a number of different vendors with the same, or similar look, with different names.
Hall Effect type thing. I inherited mine without the stand so was unaware they auto switch off when in a stand. Drove me nuts while trying to replace the voice coil on a big woofer. Damn thing kept turning off when ever I brought it near the speaker. Had me stumped for awhile.
Probably someone already commented on this, but it seems there are two models, the 861DW and the 861DE. The DW only goes to 120 l/min and the DE is the one that goes up to 200 l/min. So the display is actually indicating the air flow in l/min.
David can you please recommend where to buy one from in Australia?
I've read in reviews that some of these 858D units are dangerously wired. Are the gun shaped, paint stripper type guns worth considering for someone on a budget? Or completely unsuitable?
I usually give the reworked part a slight poke with tweezers to make sure that it reflowed, then I lift the part.
This one's a forum classic, many many people have been recommending it for a long time.
That "Quick" unit is very nice. A while back I picked up an 898D unit which I like very much, I stole it for $45.00 shipped.
Quick are the choice of Polish professional repair businesses for years now.
Quick seems to be well distributed in Poland. I had to buy mine from there to France for around 250€. There was other offers in Europe but not for the beefier 861DW variant.
@@nombinator bst 868 its better than quick 861dw
need help.what is the max temp quick 861dw 110v
I came here to see the 858d in action because I just bought one and wanted to know how it would stack up against a professional machine. Thanks for the video. It really helped and I think I can do my amateur stuff with the 858d just fine. I just need to be a bit more patient. Great stuff!
Question: what is the purpose for the red stuff on the cable ties & plug connectors?
Attempt to prevent them from working loose
What would louis think of you ripping the nvidia bga traces of the board ? Great vid thanks...
I have one, I thought for a long time about what to buy, but this was the best choice, I worked everywhere Quick 861DW slow heat accuracy scrap!
I’m fine to want any work station which came comfortable with the plastic on mainboard give me someone idea which one can I buy
Daiyve, how many micro current products do you have to make good on? What is your strategy?
I just picked this up as a side fun project to learn. I can't seem to desolder smd leds for some reason. Either I'm not getting it hot enough or I am afraid of torching stuff..lol this is my first time and I have mulitple PCB's that are dead and just practice on. I can't seem to get the hang of it yet. I know how to solder normally but totally new to hot air rework stations.
Can you see this thing overshoot glowing red hot at about 26:13 in the reflection of the pcb? That would be at least 650°C
I just bought this thing, and have actually got the same problem with my lights, but only when the airflow is set to more then 90. :/
Hi great video. Switching between Celsius and Fahrenheit can be achieved by pressing both the ch2 and ch3 buttons for 3 seconds. (Sound can be toggled on/off by pressing ch1 and ch3 for 3 seconds)
This doesn't work on my 881D
@@mitchcm that's a bummer! I've never used the 881d. I only have the 861d model. (Also I wrote my original comment wrong; it is ch1 and ch2 to toggle sound)
I have order a Quick 861X Hot-Air Rework Station but I worry to Plug In. I´m in Germany and we have 230-240V DC. This device is only for 220V. I need now a power reduction? How much voltage do you have in the socket?
edit: I have now open the Device, there are a electronic power supply with two 200V Capacitors, not good
Any recommendations on where to get this australia? Would like to get from Rossman but the shipping brings it up to close to hakko price... there are some on ebay for like 200aud but figure they're poor quality clones
I’ve seen one clone with a handle on top, and the air handle rests on the side. Some eBay seller do sell the real thing. eBay should also protect you from fakes for refunds.
But you can can contact the global site and see if any locals are authorized sellers. They are looking for more distributors now and branching out.
www.quick-global.com/2-lead-free-rework-2.html
Gadget Review Videos I was looking at this one www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fast-QUICK861DW-lead-Free-hot-1000W-High-Power-Hot-air-Disassembly-Station-A/122960673452 tho a bit skeptical because of price. There are three available in ebay Australia - one for 270, 370 and 470. The price variation is worrying!
Hi Dave, have you ever done a video explaining common mode chokes?
When it gets hot those nozzles have a tendency to fall out
I ended up drilling a small hole in the collar and tapping it to put a small screw to retain the nozzle
My 858D has held up for 3 years now its not bad for hobbyists i've used it a fair bit with no problems
Compare Quick 861DW with Best BST-863, and with NT 762E, low price product to one category.
Quick 861 DW and Best BST863, inside the same, the parameters are the same, but the price is lower twice at BST 863. Do a comparative review.
@23:00 You need some Ceramic Tweezers dude. Nice device. As a hobbyist I'll keep on with my UYUE 8586 but if it stops working the Quick will be on the wish list. Nice video.
I got the Quick 857DW, so far it's been great.
"...just stick it up the clacker" - I nearly spit out my coffee laughing ;)
WOW. I always thought you needed some special rig to remove those big BGA chips. This is so cool. The build quality on the 861 looks really nice. I just decided to get the 957DW+. It looks like the middle between the two models. It has the remote blower, which I like.
I'm guessing that you could quiet the blower down with a bellmouth intake and some foam.
when you wiggled one of the wires into the screw terminals, I could see the copper poking from the other side move, might wanna re-crimp that one, take a look.. 13:26
There is no air filter on the quick station inlet??
Neat that Louis sent you this
1:23 top right hand corner in the pop-up “screwing machine” lol
Unfortunately I can't seem to find a single heating element for sale..
Finally decided to get one of these, after having it at work for a year. It's a great station and very nice to work with.
How would we avoid melting solder away from the desired area (e.g look above R17 starting from 25:45 onward) ?
Would covering the surrounding area with kapton tape solve the issue?
Az Anything placed in the way of the airflow that can withstand the heat will help to shield the components from the heat, at least for awhile. But solutions like Kapton tape also have an added advantage beyond just providing a degree of thermal shielding and that is that they also help to hold the extraneous components in place and protect them from being bumped even if you do melt their solder. That said, you also tend to want to use lower airflow wherever practical which also greatly reduces the risk of blowing smaller components off the board.
If they are all bigger parts surrounding sometimes a coin on the other part will take the heat before the part does also. But proper air flow and nozzle diameter helps as well, he was running high air for most of the parts he was doing.
Sounds straight forward enough. Thanks guys for taking the time to answer
Good answer; if you watch Louis work, untroubled by the tedium of formal training, focused entirely on speed and efficiency as he is, he has sufficient experience to mostly avoid nuking his victims or their neighbors despite having his wand temp and flow set to "core of the sun" and "industrial air compressor" respectively. However, us mere mortals, those of us who _do_ still believe in ESD , and home-gamers just learning these skills, will mostly want to use just above to the lowest possible temperature and airflow that still allows the clean removal of the part (within the temperature excursion time defined for the part, though in practice nobody ever bothers looking that up unless it's a >$50 chip) and where necessary mask off any delicate or tiny neighbors.
And actually, in practice the folks who do volume rework for a job (as distinct from the engineers and managers who try to prescribe the process for that rework) break almost all the rules, almost all the time. That's just how the work is generally done for better or for worse.
Metal shield is better. Kapton tape is useless for that.
**IDIOT WARNING: DO NOT ACTUALLY TRY WHAT I SUGGEST BELOW!**
Put a piece of kapton tape around your index finger. Then point a hot air station at that finger at 500c. See? Not very good at keeping heat away.
I use iPhone shields, or a penny, or a quarter. It works great!
I also have this Quick Station. There is nothing in this price range that can compare. Hakko and Weller is almost 3 times the price of the quick. I have mine for almost half an year and I'm still very impressed. Unfortunately mine has a "beeping" noisy motor with high frequency sound -.- but beside of that if you searching a hot air station right now. There is no way around the quick
I second this - Quick appears to be a truly high-quality manufacturer. My 861DW, btw, doesn't make any beeping or otherwise annoying noises.
I always use the stand the other way round. That way the nozzles don't fly away but fall in the tray instead.
At 26:36 you can see the solder under the other D-PAK chip flowing, but not the one with the heat right on top of it.. Weird.
It's funny watching dave do a similar job to Louis, but without adding 6 gallons of flux to the board before desoldering :)
Please make a review of Quick TS1200A lead free soldering iron. Compair it with pace or jbc
Hi Dave, long time viewer first time poster. I know this is asking alot but I just bought one of these quick 861dw stations and when i turned it on it just displays a H-E error and does nothing. The manual indicates this is a heating element failure. However the fan does not spin up either. I'm trying to decide if i should spend $80 to get a replacement heating element. Is there anyway you could unplug the heating element and tell me if the fan still spins up on a working unit? If it does I know my unit is stuffed on both fronts. Also could you do an ohm measurement of the heating coils and tell me what value to expect? Or if any other viewers are happy to help a fellow out I would be very grateful.
To anyone that has the H- E errror indicating a heating element failure. If the heating element has failed the unit WILL NOT run the fan either. So if you have the H-E code come up a new element should get you back up and running.
A really nice hack would be getting cold air if you press temp up and down at the same time
I think if you put a scope on the heater you would see it switches fairly slowly, that causes the lights flickering... just the branch circuit voltage drop due to the heater load. I get lights flickering with a temp controlled heat gun when the lights are on the same breaker. Louis probably has the same thing, needs isolated circuits for lighting vs high power equipment. But, as a renter, doing electrical upgrades is just donating $$$ to the landperson...
This right here. I have a different SMC rework station and when it switches the heater on/off it causes heavy voltage drop on the bench circuit, sometimes fast enough to get a nice flicker going on the bench lights. It is far worse on a 110v system with that 1kW load.
micksam7 Bingo. It’s brutal on a normal 110v circuit with any other load on it. It does proper zero-voltage AC chopping (watch Louis’s teardown; they get the scope on it. It switches just like the Hakko or any other high end unit, it’s just much higher current) and basically everything else right, but there’s only so much it can do with weak sauce US mains circuits.
the collab I was waiting for...
Someone please explain how the same tempeature and max airflo rate can produce such dramatically different results.
The math/physics suggests a variable that is beyond the machines; for the machines are delivering the same product = hot air :same temp :same max airflow rate... 3+4=7. What are the variables here that can account for almost 2x the time needed to get the solder to flow?
The motor may look 'wimpy' but you'd be surprised how much power a small brushless motor can deliver. For a robotics project we used a brushed motor of about 15W to drive a dribbler system to move a ball. This motor was replaced by a tiny brushless motor from maxon motors (i believe it was the EC max 30) which was just 30mm x 62mm, a lot smaller than the original 15W brushed one, yet put out an incredible 60W of power.
This is the actual motor used; www.wonsmart.com/English/Product/0586241350.html
It's a torquey little brute, 17,000RPM unloaded speed, 8K full load delivering a max torque of 58 mN-m. Real ball bearings. 3 hall effect sensors, 3 phase. 110-ish watts under full load. Very narrow and light spinning mass for ease of balance and quietness. Excellent choice. Not a cheap motor either,.
True, for quality motors you have to spend big bucks, but its worth it. Next to clearly better performance and being quiet, they last a loooot longer in my experience.
The Atten cost me around $39 American. Same experience, but Atten is adequate, and it's good for for heat shrink, and heat polishing acrylic for DIY light pipes.
is that ceramic capacitor on the top left slightly damaged at 15:26? :V im sure it will be fine, just looks like it got bumped by something.
Faye V The paint is just scraped.
right!
his lights may be flickering cause its pulsing power to the heater so as load changes the voltage in the lines change have the same problem in my basement with my prusa 3d printer