You board seems too wide to safely cut without a kickback, especially the way you were sliding it. A sled would be the safer and easier way to cut thin strips of this short length.
Very good method. Kickback risk mitigated by riving knife. Best part is consistent cuts as you are not wearing down your reference edge against the fence with each cut nor pinching any cutoffs.
I was horrified to see this guy sliding the board between the blade and the fence. I know of a very experienced and well-known Woodturner in Wyoming (hint) that lost the ends of three fingers by pushing a much larger piece of plywood between the blade and the fence - it rotated counterclockwise and pulled his hand directly across the blade. Colin Knecht of WoodWorkWeb has a video "How to Make a Thin Strip Ripping Jig" that uses a different principle and is the best I've seen. His jig is simple to make and does not require re-setting the fence between each cut.
It seems that a good quality video, a nice shop and a wood magazine title write do themselves a safe job. In that manner Is more difficoult for beginners, to identify the right and safe tecniques.
When the ultimate test for consistency of cut is the eyeball of the person to whom your going to give the box, you must realize that you should loosen your grip on the calipers, put them back in the metal shop, and get a grip on yourself. Great looking box he’s got there.
this is not how we use a table saw safely people. first; never put your hand between the fence and blade while the saw is running. second; even with a riving knife there is no guaranteed that the short piece of stock used in this video won't kick back and hit you or twist around and pull your hand into the blade and possibly loose a digit or two. what's scary is that he claims that this is safe..smh
He does switch from his hand to a push stick at a certain point, but I think I agree with you that he does that a bit late, at least from what we can tell at this camera angle and not knowing the dimensions of the work piece. The rule of 'thumb' (so to speak) that I've gone by is, while the saw is off, spread your fingers, and if the distance between the blade and rip fence is narrower than your spread hand, so that your thumb and little finger can touch both the blade and fence at the same time, switch from a hand push to a push stick. A pinched piece of stock can indeed keep rotating, get pulled up on the back side of the blade, walk up on a tooth, then teeth as the piece continues to rotate, then pull your hand toward the spinning blade, then the piece kicks back, distract you with a flying projectile traveling toward your belly, leaving your hand to fall into the blade, all before you can react to the 5,000rpm blade's blink-of-an-eye speed doing all this.
Safety glasses - check. Hearing protection - check. Blade guard - fail. Anti-kickback pawls - fail. And please don't tell me the safety stuff is removed for clarity. Safety is for always!
Not when the piece you are cutting is wider than it's length. I am far from an expert, in fact I am just starting to get back into wood working now that I have recently gained access to my dad's old shop after he passed away 13 years ago but not only is there tons of videos on youtube teaching the dangers of this type of cut I distinctly remember being taught all of the dangers of this type of cut in junior high shop. NEVER NEVER try to rip a piece that is wider than it;s length. It is way too easy for the piece to bind up between the blade and the fence and twist on you and cause a kick back before it even reaches the riving knife. That is why you have a miter gauge. But at least you were cutting with the grain and not across the grain. In fact here is a 2 minute video that explains why VERY well. ua-cam.com/video/F0jbg9LuDsc/v-deo.html
Any method that requires you to move the fence between cuts guarantees that your strips will not be consistently thick unless you move the fence into the wood and stop block with the same exact amount of force each time. If you were to measure the thickness of any three pieces with a digital caliper, I doubt you'd find any two the same. The difference may well be unimportant in most cases, but for the times where a consistent thickness is necessary, this method won't do it.
@@wdtaut5650 Actually, there are already quite a few UA-cam videos which demonstrate jigs that do not require the fence to be moved after each cut. Any method which places the workpiece between the fence and the blade is going to have this problem of always having to reposition the fence. The "better" method has the jig between the fence and the blade, and most of the workpiece is on the left side of the blade. (I hope that made sense.)
This video should be taken down, this is a very unsafe method. Yes sure the piece is nearly square ( nearly but not quite so still unsafe) but that doesn’t mean everyone watching will realise how important that is and how dangerous it is if they start with a piece much wider than it is long. There are other ways that don’t involve a massive risk of kickback, I’m surprised this channel reccomend this, ill have to treat all their other advice with suspicion now as I can’t be sure they won’t be ‘teaching’ me something that could lead to injury without even mentioning the risks
Never, never,never, slide the work piece this way round through the blade and the fence. You should know better than to promote this dangerous way of cutting.
I can't see anything dangerous in this video. Perhaps the OP can say with a time reference which cut he finds objectionable? I'm seeing a piece of wood sliding along a rip fence, with the thin strip as the offcut, just a normal table saw cut. The workpiece clears the stop that's taped down well before it touches the blade, so there's no kickback-producing pinching or binding possible between the stop and the rip fence. The stop just helps position the fence for each cut, but is not touched during the cut. Also, the side of the workpiece that rubs the fence is not too narrow front to back, so that the workpiece could rotate and bind between the blade and the fence. He's not lopping off pieces from the 2" end of a 2"x2' board or something (for cutting that shape, one should not have it rub the rip fence, but use the miter gauge or a sled), he's just ripping offcuts from a more or less square piece. Pushing a square workpiece along the rip fence is not dangerous. What am I missing?
JusBidniss when he is ripping his 1/16 strips when the part is between the blade and fence and not yet to the splitter Riving knife it could pinch and kick back
@@handsonhobbies6690 That describes literally every safe cut involving the rip fence one can do on a table saw. There is always a point where the stock engages the blade, and has to be pushed some distance before the kerf reaches the splitter. You hold the piece against the rip fence to control its not rotating counterclockwise into the blade, which could produce the pinch and kickback you describe. How would you propose he should have done it 'the safe way'?
Don' t listen to me but I found taking all the safety crap out and putting a 7 and 1/4 blade in with a splitter as the (riving knife is too thick for smaller blade) feels way safer than trying to hold down little pieces with a lot of force, less tear out, noise, danger, half size kerf. The bigger blade want to throw stuff around too easily if it doesn't have a good size and weight. I think anytime you really are pushing or pulling with a lot of force is where accidents happen. I don't know why but when your ripping and the board is wider than it is long it reminds me of crosscutting on a fence. Shouldn't you use the mitre or a sled? or does the length just have to be larger than the blade not the width of the board. My saw just didn't feel safe with the blade that came with it. I haven't bought a good 10 blade yet but the one that came with it is a safety hazard.
I don't agree with the 'unsafe' comments here. After 20+ years using a table saw, I am of course aware of the 'wider than length' risk, but that's for much wider and much shorter length than shown here, where there's insufficient 'face' against the rip fence to keep the workpiece from twisting. Also, replacing the hand pushing with a push stick is unnecessary here, because his hand's well away from the blade, and even if the workpiece somehow manages to get twisted counterclockwise into the blade (Note to self: Don't twist the workpiece counterclockwise into the blade....), and the workpiece somehow walks up onto the blade, his hand's a good distance away that it would not get pulled over onto the blade. Plus, he's lightly pushing on it, he doesn't have a death grip on it, like holding onto a handle-type push block, so even if the piece walked up onto the blade, it would just flip out from under his fingertips. As to the thin strip kickback comments, that's just silly. The strips are being cut safely from the left of the blade, and there is nothing in this arrangement to suggest they would kickback at all. I do wonder about the accuracy of the strips, given the fact that the stop block is taped down, since most mounting tapes are foam-backed and can have a bit of side-to-side 'give', depending on how much pressure you push into it when adjusting the rip fence. Anytime I've ever cut thin strips, I'll just use a piece of scrap to get the thickness, set a stop block off of that and simply clamp it down to the table, then cut the strips from the actual workpiece. But if the tape used has no 'give', then there's no reason not to use this. Except maybe cleaning the glue goo off the table afterward, re-waxing it, etc.
The 16th inch strips need a zero clearance insert otherwise the strip will disappear into the interior of the saw. He doesn't have one installed and the gap between blade and insert is barely sufficient. The vibration in the strip halfway thought the cut has to make a mess of the surface. However he seemed to ignore that and plowed right on.
This does not look safe at all. Or accurate for that matter. The strip is flopping around against the blade. The other way around, other side, and slide the whole ting though is a better option. Better yet, use a crosscut sled.
This is an absolutely poor demonstration of skill and what is shameful is that it is under the name of WOOD magazine. This is a demonstration of an unsafe practice and this video needs to be taken down.
People, while the workpiece is technically a bit shorter front to back than it is wide, it's not so much so as to warrant all the pearl-clutching and dire warnings of 'dangerous cut' I'm reading in these comments! It's a nearly square board, that may look foreshortened due to the camera angle but is in fact as long as those gauge strips or the stop block, and only slightly wider than it is long, with plenty of length front to back to stay engaged to the rip fence and not rotate and kickback, and plenty wide enough at the beginning to push with a hand that's well away from the blade. Notice he does use a push stick at the end, when the workpiece has had enough cut from it that it's now too narrow to safely push with his hand. Wow, it sure doesn't take much to get a mob started in a YT comments section!
set it to a known size "about" 2 and 1/2 inches then makes a few questionable cuts ok kids not everyone trying this gets to keep all there fingers whos first
Tried this method but with a longer stop block and closer to the blade. No kick back ran smoothly, no problem. Very good idea
Looks like setting yourself up for kick back. Start with a longer piece to rip
Say I cut some strips at 1/4. Then how could I safely cut it through the middle so it becomes 3/16 × 1/4?
You board seems too wide to safely cut without a kickback, especially the way you were sliding it. A sled would be the safer and easier way to cut thin strips of this short length.
Great method. Thank you!
With an INCRA LS and a set of Jessem Clear Cut TS Stock Guides this is a peice of cake.
With any table saw, this is a piece of cake. Set the fence and rip. No need to move it.
Thanks for your great tips this vedio, very very useful.
Worked well for me.... thanks for the advice.
Very useful! Just finished sawing maple. The result is great!
Thank you very much!
Very good method. Kickback risk mitigated by riving knife.
Best part is consistent cuts as you are not wearing down your reference edge against the fence with each cut nor pinching any cutoffs.
Great video
I was horrified to see this guy sliding the board between the blade and the fence. I know of a very experienced and well-known Woodturner in Wyoming (hint) that lost the ends of three fingers by pushing a much larger piece of plywood between the blade and the fence - it rotated counterclockwise and pulled his hand directly across the blade.
Colin Knecht of WoodWorkWeb has a video "How to Make a Thin Strip Ripping Jig" that uses a different principle and is the best I've seen. His jig is simple to make and does not require re-setting the fence between each cut.
Great. I like it. Thank you.
DANGEROUS
It seems that a good quality video, a nice shop and a wood magazine title write do themselves a safe job. In that manner Is more difficoult for beginners, to identify the right and safe tecniques.
When the ultimate test for consistency of cut is the eyeball of the person to whom your going to give the box, you must realize that you should loosen your grip on the calipers, put them back in the metal shop, and get a grip on yourself. Great looking box he’s got there.
friend, you may use a piece of hacksaw blade at the tearing edge of tape dispenser.
Very helpful and well demonstrated.
this is not how we use a table saw safely people. first; never put your hand between the fence and blade while the saw is running. second; even with a riving knife there is no guaranteed that the short piece of stock used in this video won't kick back and hit you or twist around and pull your hand into the blade and possibly loose a digit or two.
what's scary is that he claims that this is safe..smh
He does switch from his hand to a push stick at a certain point, but I think I agree with you that he does that a bit late, at least from what we can tell at this camera angle and not knowing the dimensions of the work piece. The rule of 'thumb' (so to speak) that I've gone by is, while the saw is off, spread your fingers, and if the distance between the blade and rip fence is narrower than your spread hand, so that your thumb and little finger can touch both the blade and fence at the same time, switch from a hand push to a push stick. A pinched piece of stock can indeed keep rotating, get pulled up on the back side of the blade, walk up on a tooth, then teeth as the piece continues to rotate, then pull your hand toward the spinning blade, then the piece kicks back, distract you with a flying projectile traveling toward your belly, leaving your hand to fall into the blade, all before you can react to the 5,000rpm blade's blink-of-an-eye speed doing all this.
Very good- how did you remove the sticky residue from the work table?
Charcoal lighter fluid works well, just have adequate ventilation.
- Really helpful info.
I like it. Question. Is there any thinner disc saw to make this fin wood strips!
He used a full-width blade because it cuts a 1/8" kerf. That makes the math easier. You could certainly use a thin-kerf blade to do this.
I'm curious as to the dimensions of the blank. It's 1/4" tall but what are the rectangle dimensions of the blank.
A VERY creative method! The best I’ve seen so far.👍🏻
Wow, That looks scary as hell!!
Safety glasses - check. Hearing protection - check. Blade guard - fail. Anti-kickback pawls - fail. And please don't tell me the safety stuff is removed for clarity. Safety is for always!
Not when the piece you are cutting is wider than it's length. I am far from an expert, in fact I am just starting to get back into wood working now that I have recently gained access to my dad's old shop after he passed away 13 years ago but not only is there tons of videos on youtube teaching the dangers of this type of cut I distinctly remember being taught all of the dangers of this type of cut in junior high shop. NEVER NEVER try to rip a piece that is wider than it;s length. It is way too easy for the piece to bind up between the blade and the fence and twist on you and cause a kick back before it even reaches the riving knife. That is why you have a miter gauge. But at least you were cutting with the grain and not across the grain. In fact here is a 2 minute video that explains why VERY well. ua-cam.com/video/F0jbg9LuDsc/v-deo.html
I use an INCRA LS and Jessem Clear Cut TS Stock Guides makes this type of work easy as pie, not to mention safe.
Nerves of steel! Using all his thumbs.
Use a crosscut sled!!!
Any method that requires you to move the fence between cuts guarantees that your strips will not be consistently thick unless you move the fence into the wood and stop block with the same exact amount of force each time. If you were to measure the thickness of any three pieces with a digital caliper, I doubt you'd find any two the same. The difference may well be unimportant in most cases, but for the times where a consistent thickness is necessary, this method won't do it.
OK, make a video to show us how.
@@wdtaut5650 Actually, there are already quite a few UA-cam videos which demonstrate jigs that do not require the fence to be moved after each cut. Any method which places the workpiece between the fence and the blade is going to have this problem of always having to reposition the fence. The "better" method has the jig between the fence and the blade, and most of the workpiece is on the left side of the blade. (I hope that made sense.)
Here's a better jig, which doesn't require the fence to be moved after each cut: ua-cam.com/video/XVgdWP144Sg/v-deo.html
This video should be taken down, this is a very unsafe method. Yes sure the piece is nearly square ( nearly but not quite so still unsafe) but that doesn’t mean everyone watching will realise how important that is and how dangerous it is if they start with a piece much wider than it is long. There are other ways that don’t involve a massive risk of kickback, I’m surprised this channel reccomend this, ill have to treat all their other advice with suspicion now as I can’t be sure they won’t be ‘teaching’ me something that could lead to injury without even mentioning the risks
Agreed. Make sure you report it to youtube
Never, never,never, slide the work piece this way round through the blade and the fence. You should know better than to promote this dangerous way of cutting.
Better to do this using a crosscut sled
can you link to a proper video where it is shown safely? for an absolute beginner, hard to know which is right and which is wrong
I can't see anything dangerous in this video. Perhaps the OP can say with a time reference which cut he finds objectionable? I'm seeing a piece of wood sliding along a rip fence, with the thin strip as the offcut, just a normal table saw cut. The workpiece clears the stop that's taped down well before it touches the blade, so there's no kickback-producing pinching or binding possible between the stop and the rip fence. The stop just helps position the fence for each cut, but is not touched during the cut. Also, the side of the workpiece that rubs the fence is not too narrow front to back, so that the workpiece could rotate and bind between the blade and the fence. He's not lopping off pieces from the 2" end of a 2"x2' board or something (for cutting that shape, one should not have it rub the rip fence, but use the miter gauge or a sled), he's just ripping offcuts from a more or less square piece. Pushing a square workpiece along the rip fence is not dangerous. What am I missing?
JusBidniss when he is ripping his 1/16 strips when the part is between the blade and fence and not yet to the splitter Riving knife it could pinch and kick back
@@handsonhobbies6690 That describes literally every safe cut involving the rip fence one can do on a table saw. There is always a point where the stock engages the blade, and has to be pushed some distance before the kerf reaches the splitter. You hold the piece against the rip fence to control its not rotating counterclockwise into the blade, which could produce the pinch and kickback you describe. How would you propose he should have done it 'the safe way'?
Don' t listen to me but I found taking all the safety crap out and putting a 7 and 1/4 blade in with a splitter as the (riving knife is too thick for smaller blade) feels way safer than trying to hold down little pieces with a lot of force, less tear out, noise, danger, half size kerf. The bigger blade want to throw stuff around too easily if it doesn't have a good size and weight. I think anytime you really are pushing or pulling with a lot of force is where accidents happen. I don't know why but when your ripping and the board is wider than it is long it reminds me of crosscutting on a fence. Shouldn't you use the mitre or a sled? or does the length just have to be larger than the blade not the width of the board. My saw just didn't feel safe with the blade that came with it. I haven't bought a good 10 blade yet but the one that came with it is a safety hazard.
I don't agree with the 'unsafe' comments here. After 20+ years using a table saw, I am of course aware of the 'wider than length' risk, but that's for much wider and much shorter length than shown here, where there's insufficient 'face' against the rip fence to keep the workpiece from twisting. Also, replacing the hand pushing with a push stick is unnecessary here, because his hand's well away from the blade, and even if the workpiece somehow manages to get twisted counterclockwise into the blade (Note to self: Don't twist the workpiece counterclockwise into the blade....), and the workpiece somehow walks up onto the blade, his hand's a good distance away that it would not get pulled over onto the blade. Plus, he's lightly pushing on it, he doesn't have a death grip on it, like holding onto a handle-type push block, so even if the piece walked up onto the blade, it would just flip out from under his fingertips. As to the thin strip kickback comments, that's just silly. The strips are being cut safely from the left of the blade, and there is nothing in this arrangement to suggest they would kickback at all.
I do wonder about the accuracy of the strips, given the fact that the stop block is taped down, since most mounting tapes are foam-backed and can have a bit of side-to-side 'give', depending on how much pressure you push into it when adjusting the rip fence. Anytime I've ever cut thin strips, I'll just use a piece of scrap to get the thickness, set a stop block off of that and simply clamp it down to the table, then cut the strips from the actual workpiece. But if the tape used has no 'give', then there's no reason not to use this. Except maybe cleaning the glue goo off the table afterward, re-waxing it, etc.
JusBidnis are you the guy in the video
The 16th inch strips need a zero clearance insert otherwise the strip will disappear into the interior of the saw. He doesn't have one installed and the gap between blade and insert is barely sufficient. The vibration in the strip halfway thought the cut has to make a mess of the surface. However he seemed to ignore that and plowed right on.
This does not look safe at all. Or accurate for that matter. The strip is flopping around against the blade. The other way around, other side, and slide the whole ting though is a better option. Better yet, use a crosscut sled.
This is an absolutely poor demonstration of skill and what is shameful is that it is under the name of WOOD magazine. This is a demonstration of an unsafe practice and this video needs to be taken down.
what type of tape was used?
Sticky tape.
People, while the workpiece is technically a bit shorter front to back than it is wide, it's not so much so as to warrant all the pearl-clutching and dire warnings of 'dangerous cut' I'm reading in these comments! It's a nearly square board, that may look foreshortened due to the camera angle but is in fact as long as those gauge strips or the stop block, and only slightly wider than it is long, with plenty of length front to back to stay engaged to the rip fence and not rotate and kickback, and plenty wide enough at the beginning to push with a hand that's well away from the blade. Notice he does use a push stick at the end, when the workpiece has had enough cut from it that it's now too narrow to safely push with his hand. Wow, it sure doesn't take much to get a mob started in a YT comments section!
OMG no!
set it to a known size "about" 2 and 1/2 inches then makes a few questionable cuts ok kids not everyone trying this gets to keep all there fingers whos first
Their fingers
@@flyingdog1498 who's
Ridiculous!
Not safe at all! Please, no one ever do this with this guys method
This guy is crease
?
Interesting and very educative.
Thank you.