Ripping Narrow Stock With Your SawStop Table Saw
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- Our friend Gregory Paolini shows us an easy and safer way to rip narrow stock on the SawStop table saw. This video was created for SawStop's friends and fans on Facebook.
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Learn more on www.sawstop.com.
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
This is really the best safe way. Many other videos from experienced woodworkers still do it wrong. excellent example and great educational value! Thanks for posting.
Very easy once they show you how. This is a cut that has always worried me. Not anymore. Also, Gregory explains it all with no hurry and I understood everything he said. This is great for me, since English is not my native language. Another good point is that there is no music. I wish some others who also help with their videos do the same. Thanks Gregory.
New woodworker here Looking to Laminate 35-3/8” strips for beams for a sailboat I’m building. This answered all my questions, especially why can’t you just cut thin strips against the fence? Thanks for info.
Safe, simple, effective no gimmicks.
Thank you. I was going to build myself one of the many fancy jigs. Come top find out I have everything I need.
Real advice from a real professional.
ironically i came across your video while looking for something else. as it turns out, the timing was impeccable. i need 34- 1/4" x 3/4" slats for my daughters cradle project that i am doing for her and couldn't figure out how to safely cut those strips. this was safe and simple. thank you so much for the tip.
I'm in New Zealand, I love the way Americans say "you can get them at your local store" featherboards just aint sold in this country! Thanks for the tip about how to use one.
Cheers
Peter
Good point, I'm going to remember that.
Brilliant! Just what I was looking for as a novice table saw user. In the words of Einstein: Keep it as simple as possible, but no simpler! You are very adept at teaching and I enjoyed watching. Subscribed.
I z
Thanks for the safe way of doing this, I was NOT, still got all my fingers but had 1 fly! This solution is a MUCH BETTER idea, thank you.
I agree with Alfredo, no music quick and detailed and to the point and it is a safe technique.
No jokes! Funny can be good however we are here to learn!
Thank you the great wisdom!
Excellent video and explanation. Production quality, cuts, angles, all very, very well done. Important points focussed and emphasized! Thank you for your work.
Thank you
this is the best video I have seen, explaining the how, the why, the don'ts with ease
This was exactly what I was looking for, thank you very much. I feel safer now.
You have a nice presence about yourself for tutorials such as this one.
I am subbing right now!
You prolly dont care at all but does anyone know a way to log back into an Instagram account??
I somehow forgot the login password. I appreciate any help you can offer me.
@Quinton Braylen instablaster ;)
@Briar Atlas thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Briar Atlas It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my account !
@Quinton Braylen no problem =)
What a simple solution to cut narrow stock in the same thickness. Thank you very much.
Excellent information! Cannot wait to get one of their saws. I have a particular piece of grizzly equipment that I had to repair 13 separate issues straight out of the box. Didn't get to use the Grizzly product for a month, and it was brand new. They sent me a defective warranty part, parts that didn't even fit, and there was a back ordered part needed. I'll never buy a grizzly product again.
I thank companies like Saw Stop that produce amazing products for us American woodworkers. Happy 4th of july.
Thank you Gregory , Great info ! I needed this jig !
Sweet! Thank you!! I'm working on my first bent lamination piece!
Thank you for explaining and showing how it works. Great video!
I don’t have a Sawstop saw yet but this is exactly what I needed for a skin on frame boat project. Thanks!
ChipsterB
With this method, cutting strips for that boat will take forever. Do it right. ua-cam.com/video/uXQncneobeI/v-deo.html
I love saw stop
Clever trick, the use of the feather board... I will use it forever for making laminated edge grain stock for various uses.
Thanks Gregory, I have struggled with thin strips. I need to rip some 3/4" strips for supports on stretcher bars. I have been buying some crappy pre-cut stock.
My table saw scares me a bit as a few years ago I had a piece bind up and shoot back and put a hole in the wall. Thank goodness I was standing to the side.
I'n not familiar with the "running knife" you put in place of the face plate. I need to look that up.
Thanks, your tutorial video is "spot on" and all the comments validate your qualities. Also, your camera person shoots perfect angles.
Thanks and I subscribed,
Virginia in Louisiana
I have been using a plastic feather board, the back edge, but tried to use the flat side instead of just one poin t of it. I was getting the binding affect you spoke of. Thanks for this video. I need
A really excellent video. I will use this technique when I next want to cut narrow strips with my saw. Thank you.
Great walk through... clean and simple.
This is by far a useful video thanks no more explosive kickback 😁
Great video and even greater ruler 😁 Love my Paolini pocket rule.
Gregory you went to professional explain school!
Brilliant. I am about to cut a lot of 1/4" x 1 1/3" White Oak for a bent lamination.
Very helpful
perfect! Thanks so much for posting this and explaining it so well. New subscriber!
Thanks for sharing good woodworking tip!
This is basically the same method I use. Only I use a short fence that is set three to four inches in front of the blade in the left miter slot. It has a dome topped carriage bolt that projects out and I adjust it in and out for various widths of strips.
Isn't it more accurate to "add the thickness of the blade" (when positioning the featherboard stop) by using a stack of feeler gauges that nicely fill a test cut notch made with the blade-in-use? You could take it a step further and use more feelers in the stack to represent the desired thickness. I've found my $7 set of feelers to be absolutely invaluable for making accurate "fence bumps" and the like.
I realize that there was no claim in the video that your resulting cuts' thicknesses needed to be very close to some exact thickness (only consistent), but I've always been taught to use physical registration surfaces in place of measurement marks or rulers whenever possible. It's a good habit, IMO. Just a thought. Thanks for the very nice method of getting a good consistent result outside the blade/fence gap!
Nice little trick, thank you!
Great video! Clear and simple.
How well this works depends on your definition of "consistent". If you measured the thickness of the strips, I doubt you would find any two the same thickness. It all depends on how hard you push the fence into the wood for each new strip. A soft "kiss" push" will cause a narrower strip than a hard push. For most applications, this difference might not matter. However, in some cases, a difference of several thousandths of an inch might be too great. Pushing the fence against the wood in a consistent manner is a skill most woodworkers don't have. I know I don't.
What you're saying is true, but it's also true for the method where the waste is between the blade and the fence. Hugging the fence is harder than it looks, and it's mandatory. I do wish Greg had checked the thicknesses of the cutoffs with a micrometer, just for pedagogical purposes.
Thanks for the idea, it's so easy and handy.
I like your push block
Thank you kindly
Nice video thankyou for spending the time for these safety tips.
This is the best video on the subject of the 1/2 dozen I just looked at. Thank you!!! Actually I use a pointed stick on my bandsaw in that way but never thought to adapt it to the tablesaw! Also, the holdiing stick is another improvement on mine.
Beautiful job Sensei , thanks !
Thank you. Very good presentation.
Huge help, thank you.
Thank you! Very clear and helpful.
I prefer the rip and flip method. I cut 3/8 and 1/8 strips all day long and have zero problems. Even without a riving knife. Of course your stock has to be at least 30 or so inches long.
@@jtemple4009 You push the stock through part way, then flip it over and continue the cut. Saves your hand getting close to the blade, you're taking the cut between fence and blade. I think this way gives better quality and more consistency, and you have to have your technique just right to lift the stock off the moving blade without it snagging, not hard, but there is potential for things to go wrong. I do it if I just want to run through some packers occasionally, but you can also just use a lipped push block for short lengths.
Great video .
Awesome stuff my man!
Nice presentation but this is just not practical. I have been cutting 3/32"-1/8' flitches for laminations for 30 years now on a Delta Unisaw with a Unifence. The Unifence can slide back close to the back of the blade ( an inch or two past the blade works well) to allow the flitch to move away from the blade. The trick is that you need to stand at the side of the saw and hold the cut part as it leaves the back end of the table.. With this fence (Sawstop), you need to add on an auxiliary fence to mimic the shorter fence. Resetting the fence each time would make the job take 100 times as long and drive you crazy with inaccuracy. Even without touching the blade, you will get a bit of variation from one stack of 10 flitches to the next. I'll probably have to buy a SawStop for employee safety but I hate to lose the Unifence. The only danger comes if your large stock piece gets too thin to safely push. Also, use a thin kerf blade.
I use a bearing jig that is a
found on several books
Great tip thanks.
thanks very much for nice info.
Great instruction! I have a question. What's the metal strip with the rounded tip below the big knob on the featherboard used for? I bought a Promax 79134 featherboard, but it didn't come with an instruction sheet. Anybody have a PDF on how to use this featherboard to it's fullest?
How much can you cut down to. How much waste is left over.
Love your video's. JD
Did you use a finishing blade to make those thin strips on the table saw? Or will any blade do?
you could just use a tall fat sacrificial 2-by push shoe over the wood and cut thin strips between the fence and blade.
I'd like to have a jig like this that works on a table saw other than just Saw-Stop.
It will work on any table saw with a mitre groove.
so... what would happen if the right side of the board you are cutting in strips is perfectly parallel to the fence, but the left side, the one riding alongside the fixed point, is tapered or worse, concave... wouldn't that end up in a kickback rick?
Is it possible to rip thin strips on another brand table saw? Or is this just a thinly disguised commercial?
This is applicable to any table saw not only SawStop.
Not a real question, Turki. Google "tongue-in-cheek" :)
This was posted in a Facebook group specific to SawStop users. I wouldn’t describe it as an ad, but as a helpful tip that applies to any tablesaw user, but is directed at a targeted audience of SawStop users.
awesome, thanks
If I had bought a table saw costing thousands of pounds I would want it to come with an indexing jig like this, but professionally made. Not too much to ask, given what you're spending on the saw, and the fact it is essential to cut long, very thin strips. When I spend £500 on a DeWalt table saw I don't mind making the jig.
Hmmmmn I wonder how much that table saw is worth as mine is aluminum and far smaller. So now I see how to do it and will try the 6' slices for bent lamination that so far no one has demonstrated. Always short pieces?
good idea
how the hell did I get here and why did I just watch this entire video?
Parabéns...e obrigado!
Does it allow to cut it as thin as 3 mm ? (2/8 of an inch approximately) ? Thanks in advance for the precious information
It depends on your saw blade and the type and thickness of the wood you're cutting. When you get that thin, you may experience tear out and if the wood is not strong enough to stay rigid, it'll be flapping around in the breeze. If I had to get wood that thin, I would probably cut the it a bit thicker and then a planer or drum sander to get down to 3mm. Some planers will allow you to go to 1/4. If yours won't go that low, use double sided tape to stick it to a thicker board and feed that through.
Kareen Healey
ua-cam.com/video/uXQncneobeI/v-deo.html
Just put a 1/4 inch spacer to the left of your saw blade and bud your stop against it
+1 for using safety equipment. I've see too many presenters not use safety equipment and its just a bad precedence.
Why not just use the featherboard how it was intended. Why turn it around backwards and angled?
speyside712 my guess is that since the feathers bend (as they’re designed to do) they make an inconsistent stop block
Somebody show this man a magnetic base. They sell them for like $10 at harbor freight (part #63663) and they're more rigid than the featherboard method. Set it down where you want it on your table saw, turn the switch to lock it down, and it won't move even if you drive a truck into it.
No good on my DeWalt, non-magnetic, table. I just make a jig on a runner that's long enough to clamp to the table edge.
I wish I can do this, but I don't have a SawStop.
Way too long for such a simple index technique. (SawStop owner since they came out.) How about a video on using a skill saw blade on a sawstop or using two 1/8th inch blades side by side for a 1/4 dado.
Yes god idiea.
Yeah you can’t do this on any tablesaw besides SawStop!!
That system is dubmest I've seen
Dubm? No, I think you might be the dubmie.
buy a microjig grr ripper.
This is the standard time wasting technique. Want to see the way it should be done? Look up Izzy Swan.
Good to know but damm you put me to bed.. Pls sharpenup
This method ensures two things. Making a simple job take many times longer than it should and it ensures inconsistency. Set your fence to the size required and rip them. It's really not that hard.
Too much "CACA "
can you donate a table saw like that one? :)