LOL... I will keep doing my videos, but VEVOR is okay... they are just trying to sell products and don't see the value in promoting a product when it's useful season is coming to an end.
You know, one day you will crack this puzzle and after all this work we will tell our friends "oh running on waste oil is easy. all you have to do is.........."!
.... use an actual waste oil burner! There are plenty of systems that can do it already. They can be had cheap. They can be made even cheaper...... One of the big pieces missing is the ___pressurized atomization___ of the oil that happens in true waste oil burners. Others just let the oil bubble in a hot pot, With the vapor feeding the flame above it. I feel like our friend could have saved a lot of time if he started with a system suited for the purpose lmao
@@gutrali I appreciate the comment, but for the past two months I have been selling belongings to pay my bills and buy food. I don't have money to buy anything.... I have looked before and couldn't find anything under $4000 even refurbished. I have considered building a oil burner in the past and even collected materials, but then decided not to based on the fact that I live in a residential area. I also don't' have space as I currently have floor heating and a MR Heater unit that run on natural gas. If I made one, I would want it to work with my floor heating, and that gets way more complicated. If I lived in a rural area, I may be okay with experimenting with a more substantial heater... A "real" waste oil burner, even a DIY one would burn probably 10X the fuel this thing would (and make 10X the heat) but this little thing doesn't take up much space, was pretty inexpensive and is fun to experiment on / with. I would really like to build a oil heater in the future, and this project may turn into that, but I was hoping to avoid the use of an air compressor and keep it really simple.
Yeah, this is part of the puzzle for sure... I'm sure more challenges lay ahead, but at least now I know that getting the oil hot is an important part and that it burns clean when hot. (clean exhaust)
Great progress! Stainless steel retains heat but has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. I know because I have welded the stuff for many years. I you wanted to transfer more heat down to the combustion area/fuel inlet, maybe a larger diameter transfer bar? Would last longer also.
Right on. You are the second person to tell me this about stainless... I had no idea. I'm not 100% sure what you mean ... like the bolt but larger diameter ?
@@loweredexpectations4927 Yes exactly, a larger bolt for better heat transfer. But maybe not just a bolt. You have a lathe, you can make just about anything from a more conductive material.
HAHA... I'm glad you enjoyed that... I was editing and had footage of me scraping up the carbon and was about to delete it and was like .... wait a seconds...
After you put the swirl vanes back, please try Hooking up a leaf blower to your intake pipe .... Force a lot more air through it. Maybe after lifting the intake air fan a few mms, or removing the intake fan entirely (leaving the black outer fan in place) to help the air scoot through more easily. Maybe that will help atomize and swirl and help the combustion be more complete. Basically the opposite of removing the vanes.
Thanks for the comment. I would like to try something like that for sure. I need a new chamber to do that, and I would probably use something smaller than a leaf blower, but yes. I like it.
@@loweredexpectations4927 hot idea for you, set up an Amazon wishlist with little things that help you, and/or you'd be willing to experiment with. I will be the first one to plunk down $25 for one of those 120v variacs, that allow you to add smooth speed control to any brushed motor... including an electric leaf blower. Buying and having delivered to you something you'd use is basically the best vote possible towards that experiment. Keep up the good work
@@gutrali That is a good idea. I should have done it months ago. I currently have a backlog of videos that I have to get done / get edited and published before the season comes to an end. I don't want to take people's money and then not be able to make good on a video. I'm going to try to get a bunch out relatively quickly, so maybe I can catch up. Thanks !
To getva leaner fuel ratio, you can put the controller into alpine mode, and it cuts the fuel pump frequency down significantly, but maintains the same fan speed for each 'power level'. Running straight diesel in my unit it actually seems to run more constant around 206-210* in alpine mode. Your elevation in Calgary vs Saskatoon would be even more of a bonus. Keep up the experiment!
Thanks for the comment ! I actually have a video that is dedicated to running the heater in alpine mode, making it run lean to try to sort out the issues. I tried to post the link below... ua-cam.com/video/1dy5LK_n0HY/v-deo.html&ab_channel=LoweredExpectations
Jacob...The real Jetski Brothers Jacob ! Thanks for updating your name. Haha... yeah... Trying to grab people's attention with that. I'm HOPING to get some jetski content done some time soon. Thanks for commenting !
Maybe I worry too much. I'm not sure the plastic container will have reaction with diesel or gasoline. And also I worry if the container sit there for more than an hour, upper and lower mixer may have different ratio, so may need shake it once a while 🙂
Oh no! Now we've got a dramatic cliffhanger just like in Grey's Anatomy at the end of every season. Will it survive? Funny Vevor. In Germany winter just came back and it' is supposed to stay cold for this winter's longest period so far, full two weeks of freezing nights. Which is annoying, because we went through our gas shortage quite well until now just because of this up to now extraordinary warm winter. Just when all the plants started to grow and i shut down heating, winter gets cold and lasts. Not good for grocery prices either. You know, that stainless steel is an especially bad heat conductor? But this point fits my idea, that you need a glowing heat core in the chamber. The allan bolt head glows and acts as an heat buffer. From my experience, the washer's heat will not transfer back via the stainless bolt, because the bolt acts as a heat isolator, but i think, the washer, at least the first one, may act as a flame backlash device? So, if it does work something alike, i'd try a ceramic washer. Maybe this withstands these conditions. But maybe you got the right construction already? Staying tuned for the next season of diesel heater's anatomy.
That sucks about the weather there... It's been a but if a cold one here, but we get a LOT of temperature fluctuations. I hope it works out for you and wasms up. I was not at all aware that stainless is a bad conductor... Hmmm. It would be awesome if the chamber, where the botl is, would glow red... I will have to do more research and check on materials that will transfer better but not melt... Haha... heaters anatomy. I have been trying all sorts of materials just out of curiosity.... I wonder how had it is to get a ceramic washer...
I know what you are saying... I like longer videos, but now days most people have been spoiled with Instagram and Ticktok ... they want to know what's up in 60 seconds or less. The issue is that those people watch the video for 9 minutes and then get bored, UA-cam thinks that means your video isn't entertaining, so they stop recommending it to others ... and that means the views drop drastically... Unfortunately, something that you have to consider when publishing videos. I am working on another video as we speak and will be publishing more regularly when possible.
Dude you need to create high-pressure atomisation of the oil. This will make the right droplet size, hotter burn, burn consistency without the crud buildup.....
While that is a good idea, it's not nearly as simple as it may first seam. I'm am working on a new burn head (future videos) but due to the extremely small amount of fuel these heaters use, it's actually very difficult. Pressure is the resistance to flow. The flow rate at full heat is only about a tablespoon a minute (9ml). This means you would need an orifice a little smaller than the size of a human hair (.09mm or .0035 inches) to create 90 PSI
I know you not gonna like that *** tips *** just attach a piece ok calytic convector inside you know the temps gonna go high with the reaction of the fuel burning and the calytic burning it a seconde time in the same chamber
@@loweredexpectations4927 glad to hear about it then ima wait to aee the video And i live for 2 year only with this heater to heat my small 24 foot campers but now its in my garage and the bearing start to be annoying a little 4 years with servicing it. I think this is not bad 🤷
Hi! I have a suggestion that ive been thingking about, recently I watched Lcluckies videos where he bought the new larger ''8kwh' heater, the only difference was that they had made the heat exchanger longer than other heaters, how about cutting off the head of one, and extend the heatsink area even further? and weld it back, should emit more heat, unless the manufacturers amended the size of the fuel pump etc and or the fuel rate '
I could be totally off here since my experience is 3D printing not heaters but stainless steel is crap for heat transfer heat conduction it's one of the worst metals you could use at least in 3D printing I could never get the nozzle hot enough to actually transfer enough heat to the plastic it was more an insulator that a conductor
What if you machine a venturi out of billet steel instead of the burn chamber then have a pipe outside that with a gap equal to the I'd of the large end of the venturi so the heat does a zig zag through the heat chamber sucking all the heat before the exhaust
I actually do this in a future video... There were a few reasons why I was reluctant to do this, however. I was concerned that the extra air would actually change the ratio too much and actually cause it to run cooler, or just flame out. This also isn't terribly practical, because you then have the added complexity and power to operate the compressor, and they are not at all efficient.
0:12 You wouldn’t have a mineral deficiency after that, with all the calcium, phosphorus and magnesium! I think you’d have heavy metal poisoning, though. 😄
From experience I know aluminum starts melting from 400c. Especially if it's a cast aluminum. A heatsink will conduct heat just aswell as disturbing it. But if it did melt and I was wrong about the melting point. I would say try a pb1 or pb2 or even a ab1 or ab2. Ab = aluminum bronze pb = Phosphor Bronze. Regardless nicely done. Side note what's with the nice mini Cooper in the background are you rebuilding it?
Thanks for the comment ! Yes, one of the great things about aluminum is that it can get rid of heat very quickly... Part of how quickly it can get rid of heat, however, is how much surface area is in contact with what it is transferring heat to. I will be trying all sorts if things out of curiosity, in upcoming videos. The Mini is a project form 2008 (worked in it steady for 2 years) and then bought a house, built this garage, started a business AND the Mini has been sitting since 2010... I currently have it posted for sale because I'm in a bit of financial trouble... The Mini could save my butt.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I hope you find all the success in the world with the UA-cam channels. I forgot to ask. Don't the people living around you moun about the odd smells coming from the garage?
Fuel rich can cause carbonic acid as there is not enough oxygen to do a proper stoiciometric combustion and when this happens the carbonic acid is highly corrosive on steel.
I made you a couple of new videos of my air injection test setup on my channel if you care to watch one of them shows a closer look at where I moded my heater and how the vacuum actually works on the air injection
@@loweredexpectations4927 there are two of them one just shows the location of the air tube and how it creates a vacuum the second shows the unit startup with air being applied the entire time I tried to get a clean view of my burn tube note I have about 30l of 95-5 oil gas run through so far not sure how that compares to what you are seeing. I have a suspicion that if I were to flip flop where I have my oil and air going in with on another I may get even better results with the vacuum effect
@@lanceulbrich6249 I haven't gotten anywhere near those results for fuel consumption. I am assuming this could be due to your air volume and or pressure. I was going to say because of your venturi effect, but that shouldn't make any difference as it is still entering into the glow plug area through the tube. My lack of venturi effect DOES cause resistance to pump flow and might decrease actual fuel delivery 🤷♂ At startup / before it gets hot, if I run more than a few psi it will flame out. Once it is running I can get great heat, but I'm always having to play with the air feed to try to keep in burning clean.
You're the second person to recommend this... Makes sense. I believe I have some ceramic bits laying around, tig torch tips and sandblasting tips, spark plugs.... Maybe some of the wife's cookware 🤣
That very generous, I appreciate it. If I end up coming up with a particular design that I'm sure is going to work I will hit you up. You make your sand cast mold from 3D prints or old school ?
Yeah... I really thought stainless would stand up better. I am always confused by this, as when welding stainless they say it is a highly reactive metal and requires lots of shielding gas.... I guess this has to do with the very high temperatures.
Are you aware of thermal conductivity of a stainless steel, aren't you? It's POOR AF. Do it with copper allthread (made on lathe) instead. Regarding the aluminium washer, I would guess the trick are the holes, which are just about the right size for restriction you need.
Haha... I feel like an idiot for not knowing this... you are the 3rd person, at least, to tell me this. I did not know. You might be correct about the restriction... new video coming today, hopefully.
Another interesting round of tests. I watched a video by a UA-camr called David McLuckie recently where he mentions the cooling effect of the intake fan and a possible software restriction which throttles back the fuelling when the heat chamber gets too hot. Both air and fuel can have a cooling effect on the combustion, could a manual control over the fan speed and fuel injection achieve the desired chamber temperatures? ua-cam.com/video/vey__x9fUtQ/v-deo.html
Thanks for the comment ! I've seen that video, I watch most of his stuff... Good guy. He is 100% correct about this effect. You either want to stay above or below this temp so that the fuel delivery stays consistent. That being said, this temp that he is talking about is the temp of the heat exchanger, and not the temp of the burn chamber. In my testing, I have found that the two are only very loosely related, still, this "throttling back" is a very good thing to know and keep in mind. Manual control is ideal for this sort of testing. I recently got a new controller and will be making some videos with a set up that has more adjustment.
Screw Vevor, continue your heater videos they're awesome 👌
LOL... I will keep doing my videos, but VEVOR is okay... they are just trying to sell products and don't see the value in promoting a product when it's useful season is coming to an end.
Yup, lol 🤣that was a funny intro. Teaser video for PT-20 👍🏽
Haha... I love mixed nuts .... or whatever that was, haha.
Holy , what a solid product Vevor ....
Oh SNAP... that's the stainless steel washer that I've been trying to tell everyone about... I forgot what video it was in... Part 19 thumbnail.
Really like it when you are eating that gravely substance. 😂
🤣 My humor is bound to get me in trouble some day.
You know, one day you will crack this puzzle and after all this work we will tell our friends "oh running on waste oil is easy. all you have to do is.........."!
I sure hope so !! haha. Thanks for the vote of confidence !
.... use an actual waste oil burner! There are plenty of systems that can do it already. They can be had cheap. They can be made even cheaper...... One of the big pieces missing is the ___pressurized atomization___ of the oil that happens in true waste oil burners. Others just let the oil bubble in a hot pot, With the vapor feeding the flame above it. I feel like our friend could have saved a lot of time if he started with a system suited for the purpose lmao
... mix it with 95% diesel." 😉 just kidding, good luck!
@@Gideon_Judges6 Haha... That would probably work !
@@gutrali I appreciate the comment, but for the past two months I have been selling belongings to pay my bills and buy food. I don't have money to buy anything.... I have looked before and couldn't find anything under $4000 even refurbished.
I have considered building a oil burner in the past and even collected materials, but then decided not to based on the fact that I live in a residential area. I also don't' have space as I currently have floor heating and a MR Heater unit that run on natural gas. If I made one, I would want it to work with my floor heating, and that gets way more complicated.
If I lived in a rural area, I may be okay with experimenting with a more substantial heater... A "real" waste oil burner, even a DIY one would burn probably 10X the fuel this thing would (and make 10X the heat) but this little thing doesn't take up much space, was pretty inexpensive and is fun to experiment on / with. I would really like to build a oil heater in the future, and this project may turn into that, but I was hoping to avoid the use of an air compressor and keep it really simple.
Brilliant start to the video. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks ! haha.
Looks like your getting closer good stuff
Yeah, this is part of the puzzle for sure... I'm sure more challenges lay ahead, but at least now I know that getting the oil hot is an important part and that it burns clean when hot. (clean exhaust)
Great progress! Stainless steel retains heat but has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. I know because I have welded the stuff for many years. I you wanted to transfer more heat down to the combustion area/fuel inlet, maybe a larger diameter transfer bar? Would last longer also.
Right on. You are the second person to tell me this about stainless... I had no idea. I'm not 100% sure what you mean ... like the bolt but larger diameter ?
@@loweredexpectations4927 Yes exactly, a larger bolt for better heat transfer. But maybe not just a bolt. You have a lathe, you can make just about anything from a more conductive material.
@@constantinehatzis2807 Great idea.
They are right you need a summer project to keep things rolling solar and ebike will be hot again soon 🚴
That sounds like an interesting idea.
@@loweredexpectations4927 the price of the DIY kits will shoot up when the sun comes back
Another entertaining video. Great progress, but still intrigued to see what the moonshine/rachia/țuica/palinca/hooch experiment is all about 🤣
Everyone wants to see that video, haha.
yea we want to see more craziness tell vevor gimi more stuff lol they have all kinda stuff !
HAHA... They do have all sorts of great stuff ! I just need to get my crap together and ask for some stuff and let them know what my plans are.
@@loweredexpectations4927 yes sir thats what they were hinting at i believe ...
Man, suspenseful! I can't wait to see what happened with that aluminum part you added!
Haha... thanks Tim.
I'm going to try to release a video today.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Can't wait!
That looks fantastic already. I hope you have success with the method. Keep it up
Thanks ! I'm hoping to get a video out today.
I almost choked, spitting my coffee on my desk laughing so loud, at the beginning of the video! hahahahahahahaah Thank you for this funny intro :)
HAHA... I'm glad you enjoyed that... I was editing and had footage of me scraping up the carbon and was about to delete it and was like .... wait a seconds...
After you put the swirl vanes back, please try Hooking up a leaf blower to your intake pipe .... Force a lot more air through it. Maybe after lifting the intake air fan a few mms, or removing the intake fan entirely (leaving the black outer fan in place) to help the air scoot through more easily. Maybe that will help atomize and swirl and help the combustion be more complete. Basically the opposite of removing the vanes.
Thanks for the comment.
I would like to try something like that for sure. I need a new chamber to do that, and I would probably use something smaller than a leaf blower, but yes. I like it.
@@loweredexpectations4927 hot idea for you, set up an Amazon wishlist with little things that help you, and/or you'd be willing to experiment with. I will be the first one to plunk down $25 for one of those 120v variacs, that allow you to add smooth speed control to any brushed motor... including an electric leaf blower. Buying and having delivered to you something you'd use is basically the best vote possible towards that experiment. Keep up the good work
@@gutrali That is a good idea. I should have done it months ago. I currently have a backlog of videos that I have to get done / get edited and published before the season comes to an end. I don't want to take people's money and then not be able to make good on a video. I'm going to try to get a bunch out relatively quickly, so maybe I can catch up. Thanks !
To getva leaner fuel ratio, you can put the controller into alpine mode, and it cuts the fuel pump frequency down significantly, but maintains the same fan speed for each 'power level'. Running straight diesel in my unit it actually seems to run more constant around 206-210* in alpine mode. Your elevation in Calgary vs Saskatoon would be even more of a bonus.
Keep up the experiment!
Thanks for the comment ! I actually have a video that is dedicated to running the heater in alpine mode, making it run lean to try to sort out the issues. I tried to post the link below...
ua-cam.com/video/1dy5LK_n0HY/v-deo.html&ab_channel=LoweredExpectations
Joel I basically don't watch your heater videos , but gosh the first 30 seconds were good!
Jacob...The real Jetski Brothers Jacob ! Thanks for updating your name.
Haha... yeah... Trying to grab people's attention with that. I'm HOPING to get some jetski content done some time soon. Thanks for commenting !
@@loweredexpectations4927 Yeah I'm hoping to as well. Not like I've been railing out videos lately.
@@Jacobskibros Not exactly the best time of the year for it.... It's coming soon tho !
good stuff
Thanks !
You mean the tasty crunchy stuff from the workbench? 🤣
@@werner.x haha
@@werner.x lol
I'm waiting for the episode when a mushroom cloud is 100 feet over your man cave.
🤣 I always keep a camera running in the background, just in case.
can't believe you eat your metal filings without Milk. You Animal!
Here in Calgary, we call them "chips" and we prefer soda 😁
Maybe I worry too much. I'm not sure the plastic container will have reaction with diesel or gasoline. And also I worry if the container sit there for more than an hour, upper and lower mixer may have different ratio, so may need shake it once a while 🙂
Gasoline tends to mix really well and naturally stay mixed, but I do try to slosh it around every few hours anyway.
Ya Gonna have to get a ceramic washer.
Yeah... I wish I had some just kicking around. I have found a few other ceramic bits... but I'm not sure that they are suitable shapes.
Oh no! Now we've got a dramatic cliffhanger just like in Grey's Anatomy at the end of every season. Will it survive?
Funny Vevor. In Germany winter just came back and it' is supposed to stay cold for this winter's longest period so far, full two weeks of freezing nights.
Which is annoying, because we went through our gas shortage quite well until now just because of this up to now extraordinary warm winter. Just when all the plants started to grow and i shut down heating, winter gets cold and lasts. Not good for grocery prices either.
You know, that stainless steel is an especially bad heat conductor?
But this point fits my idea, that you need a glowing heat core in the chamber.
The allan bolt head glows and acts as an heat buffer.
From my experience, the washer's heat will not transfer back via the stainless bolt, because the bolt acts as a heat isolator, but i think, the washer, at least the first one, may act as a flame backlash device? So, if it does work something alike, i'd try a ceramic washer. Maybe this withstands these conditions.
But maybe you got the right construction already?
Staying tuned for the next season of diesel heater's anatomy.
That sucks about the weather there... It's been a but if a cold one here, but we get a LOT of temperature fluctuations. I hope it works out for you and wasms up.
I was not at all aware that stainless is a bad conductor... Hmmm. It would be awesome if the chamber, where the botl is, would glow red... I will have to do more research and check on materials that will transfer better but not melt...
Haha... heaters anatomy. I have been trying all sorts of materials just out of curiosity.... I wonder how had it is to get a ceramic washer...
At least for me your videos feels too short, I always enjoy watching it 😊 and waiting final results to buy second heater and use it for waste oil 🤦🤪
I know what you are saying... I like longer videos, but now days most people have been spoiled with Instagram and Ticktok ... they want to know what's up in 60 seconds or less.
The issue is that those people watch the video for 9 minutes and then get bored, UA-cam thinks that means your video isn't entertaining, so they stop recommending it to others ... and that means the views drop drastically... Unfortunately, something that you have to consider when publishing videos.
I am working on another video as we speak and will be publishing more regularly when possible.
HAHAHAHAH You killed that poor Horse on the 1st Episode ....
And now I've eaten it, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 HAHHAHAHA
Dude you need to create high-pressure atomisation of the oil. This will make the right droplet size, hotter burn, burn consistency without the crud buildup.....
While that is a good idea, it's not nearly as simple as it may first seam. I'm am working on a new burn head (future videos) but due to the extremely small amount of fuel these heaters use, it's actually very difficult.
Pressure is the resistance to flow. The flow rate at full heat is only about a tablespoon a minute (9ml). This means you would need an orifice a little smaller than the size of a human hair (.09mm or .0035 inches) to create 90 PSI
I know you not gonna like that *** tips *** just attach a piece ok calytic convector inside you know the temps gonna go high with the reaction of the fuel burning and the calytic burning it a seconde time in the same chamber
Thanks... someone gave me a mini converter and I will be doing a video on it.
@@loweredexpectations4927 glad to hear about it then ima wait to aee the video
And i live for 2 year only with this heater to heat my small 24 foot campers but now its in my garage and the bearing start to be annoying a little 4 years with servicing it.
I think this is not bad 🤷
Hi! I have a suggestion that ive been thingking about, recently I watched Lcluckies videos where he bought the new larger ''8kwh' heater, the only difference was that they had made the heat exchanger longer than other heaters, how about cutting off the head of one, and extend the heatsink area even further? and weld it back, should emit more heat, unless the manufacturers amended the size of the fuel pump etc and or the fuel rate
'
I quite enjoy that idea and have been considering something similar to that... Once it is cold enough to do testing again 👍
I could be totally off here since my experience is 3D printing not heaters but stainless steel is crap for heat transfer heat conduction it's one of the worst metals you could use at least in 3D printing I could never get the nozzle hot enough to actually transfer enough heat to the plastic it was more an insulator that a conductor
Yup... you are spot on... and the 4-5th person to tell me this... I had no idea, haha. Thanks !
LOL I loved the intro,but how does it taste?
🤣 How is everyone not mentioning this !! I love the taste of Costco nut mix... hope no one was confused.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I thought it was brilliant.
What if you machine a venturi out of billet steel instead of the burn chamber then have a pipe outside that with a gap equal to the I'd of the large end of the venturi so the heat does a zig zag through the heat chamber sucking all the heat before the exhaust
Not sure what you mean here...
So what mixture are you currently running? (Diesel, oil,fuel)
75% oil, 20% diesel and 5% gasoline. and 20ml of cetane booster.
Why not put compressed air in the inlet so u have more air....Then add more fuel and u get hotter temps.........
I actually do this in a future video...
There were a few reasons why I was reluctant to do this, however. I was concerned that the extra air would actually change the ratio too much and actually cause it to run cooler, or just flame out. This also isn't terribly practical, because you then have the added complexity and power to operate the compressor, and they are not at all efficient.
0:12 You wouldn’t have a mineral deficiency after that, with all the calcium, phosphorus and magnesium! I think you’d have heavy metal poisoning, though. 😄
Haha... Keeps your bones strong and makes you dead.
From experience I know aluminum starts melting from 400c. Especially if it's a cast aluminum. A heatsink will conduct heat just aswell as disturbing it. But if it did melt and I was wrong about the melting point. I would say try a pb1 or pb2 or even a ab1 or ab2. Ab = aluminum bronze pb = Phosphor Bronze. Regardless nicely done. Side note what's with the nice mini Cooper in the background are you rebuilding it?
Thanks for the comment ! Yes, one of the great things about aluminum is that it can get rid of heat very quickly... Part of how quickly it can get rid of heat, however, is how much surface area is in contact with what it is transferring heat to. I will be trying all sorts if things out of curiosity, in upcoming videos.
The Mini is a project form 2008 (worked in it steady for 2 years) and then bought a house, built this garage, started a business AND the Mini has been sitting since 2010... I currently have it posted for sale because I'm in a bit of financial trouble... The Mini could save my butt.
i asked about the mini to lol
@@raymondj8768 it's a sweet looking ride.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I hope you find all the success in the world with the UA-cam channels. I forgot to ask. Don't the people living around you moun about the odd smells coming from the garage?
@@ldsk938 i know rite it will be good content to . i used to race super comp dragsters .
Fuel rich can cause carbonic acid as there is not enough oxygen to do a proper stoiciometric combustion and when this happens the carbonic acid is highly corrosive on steel.
That's interesting. Chemistry is cool !
? More likely the high sulfur in used motor oil (both as an oil constituent and as combustion acid) is causing your problem
I made you a couple of new videos of my air injection test setup on my channel if you care to watch one of them shows a closer look at where I moded my heater and how the vacuum actually works on the air injection
Right on... I'll go check them out.
@@loweredexpectations4927 there are two of them one just shows the location of the air tube and how it creates a vacuum the second shows the unit startup with air being applied the entire time I tried to get a clean view of my burn tube note I have about 30l of 95-5 oil gas run through so far not sure how that compares to what you are seeing. I have a suspicion that if I were to flip flop where I have my oil and air going in with on another I may get even better results with the vacuum effect
@@lanceulbrich6249 I haven't gotten anywhere near those results for fuel consumption. I am assuming this could be due to your air volume and or pressure. I was going to say because of your venturi effect, but that shouldn't make any difference as it is still entering into the glow plug area through the tube.
My lack of venturi effect DOES cause resistance to pump flow and might decrease actual fuel delivery 🤷♂ At startup / before it gets hot, if I run more than a few psi it will flame out. Once it is running I can get great heat, but I'm always having to play with the air feed to try to keep in burning clean.
you need stainless steel bolt and ceramic washer .
You're the second person to recommend this... Makes sense. I believe I have some ceramic bits laying around, tig torch tips and sandblasting tips, spark plugs.... Maybe some of the wife's cookware 🤣
does ceramic even conduct heat?
@@descent8275 Not well. It would only work as a deflector or restrictor.
i can cast you parts like the AL disk out of Brass or Copper
That very generous, I appreciate it. If I end up coming up with a particular design that I'm sure is going to work I will hit you up.
You make your sand cast mold from 3D prints or old school ?
Are you sure that was a stainless washer and not agalvanized washer
Yeah... I really thought stainless would stand up better.
I am always confused by this, as when welding stainless they say it is a highly reactive metal and requires lots of shielding gas.... I guess this has to do with the very high temperatures.
Are you aware of thermal conductivity of a stainless steel, aren't you? It's POOR AF. Do it with copper allthread (made on lathe) instead.
Regarding the aluminium washer, I would guess the trick are the holes, which are just about the right size for restriction you need.
Haha... I feel like an idiot for not knowing this... you are the 3rd person, at least, to tell me this. I did not know. You might be correct about the restriction... new video coming today, hopefully.
Copper would transfer heat faster... More efficiently
I think I used copper in a later vide.
Another interesting round of tests. I watched a video by a UA-camr called David McLuckie recently where he mentions the cooling effect of the intake fan and a possible software restriction which throttles back the fuelling when the heat chamber gets too hot. Both air and fuel can have a cooling effect on the combustion, could a manual control over the fan speed and fuel injection achieve the desired chamber temperatures? ua-cam.com/video/vey__x9fUtQ/v-deo.html
Thanks for the comment ! I've seen that video, I watch most of his stuff... Good guy. He is 100% correct about this effect. You either want to stay above or below this temp so that the fuel delivery stays consistent.
That being said, this temp that he is talking about is the temp of the heat exchanger, and not the temp of the burn chamber. In my testing, I have found that the two are only very loosely related, still, this "throttling back" is a very good thing to know and keep in mind.
Manual control is ideal for this sort of testing. I recently got a new controller and will be making some videos with a set up that has more adjustment.