You remind me of Edd China on Wheeler Dealers. He would do one job and then put all the pieces back on. And then remove the same pieces to do another job. Great teaching technique in case a person only watches one video.
The mechanic was prob talk about the gasket underneath the cams which u have to take the cams out their actually called the cam cover gasket what he's doing here is the valve cover gasket which u would think he know this but it don't look like it
I just did this job on my '17 Forester on the drivers side. Pretty much identical to this. Cleaning off the old RTV is a nightmare. I used headless bolts screwed into the fuel rail cover holes as alignment pins to replace the cover. Putting the front of the vehicle on ramps and removing the plastic skid plate helped for getting at those bottom bolts and for cleaning off the old RTV.
i have a 2010 Outback. The driver's side cam cover would not come out. It hit the frame rail. Looks like they fixed that error and the job is so much easier. Lucky you.
It was not easy adjusting valves on the EJ253 in my 2010 OB because that rocker cover wouldn't come out. I got it done but the neighbors heard me "encouraging" myself doing it...
I just replace the spark plugs, gasket, engine oil, oil filter. Now the car engine is quiet and more power, no leaking oil👍👍👍save save 💰💰💰 thanks from 🇦🇺
I'm so happy Mr.Subaru bought this Outback. We have two of these in our family, and they need a lot of similar work done. A few days ago I changed the spark plugs on mine, but had a hard time putting back on the rear ignition coil pigtails, it just wouldn't go all the way in. Looked like the internal red rubber seal inside the pigtail connectors either swelled up or got loose. After half an hour fighting with it I just decided to pull the seal out, and connect without it. Hopefully this will cause any issues in the future.
easy-ish lol I did chuckle a bit at this ;) I changed plugs on my 2014 outback and it had dry plug holes :) [wow I was happy about that!] my sisters 2011 outback had a little oil [about a 1/4" ] in the drivers side. [ugh] I hadnt seen a vid on this, but thought that was bad. before removing the plug I Sprayed brake cleen down there & blew it out [messy] then wiped with paper towels to be sure. the front plug hole had a little oil there [So I repeated the clean up] & told my sister what I found. she told me to just put it back together so she could drive it [eek] so I did. . . a couple years later It still running good - so there it is I recommended she have a shop do the seal work, But now I see you do it - "maybe" I can do it. with the extra time to do it. I have a shop n tools. just need to buy those little hands and while In at buying stuff, might as well order longer fingers too ;) I was super glad my 2014 was good. I keep the engine bay clean, So it "looks" better anyway ;) I sure appreciate your video's and bought myself a few tools as I see those I needed. do wish my hands were smaller. Your Engine bays have more room than mine does :) Thank you for making it look easier - ish ;)
FYI, these repairs he's been doing up to this point can also be applied to Legacy's from 2015-2019. Same engine and tranny, just a different body on top. Just did my driver side CV axle replacement this morning in my Legacy using his torque specs and techniques. Went very smooth minus the stupid diff seal. That sucker was a PITA to get out. No more clicking on left turns!
I've got a 2015 also, found that my misfire issues like yours was actually due to a failing coil pack on the cylinder closest the battery. Dealer had recommended checking this one as they mentioned that they have seen a high failure rate on that specific cylinder. Also changing plugs on this model has to be one of the hardest on any Subaru, I've done , due to that battery mount
thank you so much, i was dreading doing the spark plugs on my 2013 Crosstrek, it was actually super easy, the only trick i can add is dont click the ratchet all the way onto the extension or itll be hard to hit the button to unlock it while pulling it back at the same time... or just use a ratchet that doesnt lock the sockets on... either way, all i needed was a 8mm socket, 10mm shallow socket, 10mm deep socket, i used a regular old Husky 3/8th ratchet to break the plugs loose then used my Tekton super compact 3/8 to spin it out more then just spun it with my fingers on the 3" wobble extension (wobble makes it a lot easier to get in and out without taking the extension out of the 14mm spark plug socket with spring retainers... with your guidance i had it done easily without any spearing in well under an hour. one thhing that concerns me, the coils seemed faily "plugged in" to the spark plugs when i removed them, but when i put them back, they didnt really pop on, they felt like they kinda just butted into the holes and were fully dependent on the bolts to keep them from literally falling out... car ran better than before though when i fired it up so seemingly runs fine... the old plugs had hardly any center electrode left, and the outer electrodes were all very eroded as well, color was good, just a light browning... car has 197K miles on in, plugs havent been changed since the last under warranty scheduled maintenance (if ever)... they looked really really worn out... like a tiny little sliver of electrode, barely even visible... like the tip of a sewing needle... 20-25% of new width approximately and about double or triple the gap... 3 of my plug well seals are leaking though... and one camcover in another place... not terrible leaks, but definitely weeping a tad.. which is why im here... ha... also on the menu are front and rear CV axles, wheel bearings and brakes... most of the parts are sitting on my living room waiting to be installed... shes also due for another oil change, CVT flush, differential fluid change, alll four struts.... Ii drive the ever loving piss out of it, even full to the brim with 500 pounds of carpentry tools, i drive it like im on a race track... i pass every car on the road, even the ones that think theyre fast... im truly amazed at the reliabiluity and durability of these subarus, though i do dispise the CVT... this is the first one ive owned and will most definitely be the last. its so bad.... always in too tall of gear untill you hit the downshift paddle one more time then its at redline and doesnt wanna "upshift" again... my next car will be a manual again... i bought this one because the salesman said "The CVT is essentially a manual without a clutch so it shifts instantly and doesnt lose power between shifts"... and on the round the block test drive in city traffic it seemed ok... but in the twisties or if you wanna get after it, its god fucking awful... and does not in any way match the sporty handling and feel of subaru cars... all my prior subarus were manual and all my future ones willl be too, now.
Your video saved me the hassle of doing the cam covers the factory manual way, which says to remove the crossover exhaust pipe. Great to know it can all be done from above. Thank you!
Easy-ish? NOPE, I'm way to old & green to tackle most things on these Subaru's. I'm getting to the point of thinking I might have to sell it in a few years. They're just so complicated in the layers of things to come off for what used to be really easy, changing plugs. I say bless you for keeping your cool & having the knowledge to do this stuff. Thanks for all your hard work & patience in sharing. Stay blessed
Hey Mr Subaru. I just did this repair and everything went well but I just started the car and the check engine, cruise control and the x-mode lights are on. Not sure what to do now. I have feeling it has something to do with the battery being out for so long but not sure.
Mistake at 7:45 mark. The FSM states that after the crank pulley timing mark is lined up with the 0 degree mark on the chain cover the crankshaft then gets rotated 180 degrees clockwise from that point. That fact was left out of this video.
I don't know about all the technicians at Subaru, but when replacing spark plugs as a maintenance, I do that from the bottom on both H4 and H6 engines. Cam covers are definitely a top side job, though.
I’ve done plugs on 4 of these newer Subaru FA/FB engines and they were all a breeze from the top. Just take off the intake (usually 2-3 bolts) and remove the battery, slide the ECU up and out of the way, and then it’s no problem reach each spark plug from the top with a swivel head ratchet and a 4” extension on the spark plug socket. I never needed any of the janky socket swivels that people like to recommend either. It may be easier from the bottom with EJ engines though. It’s been 10 years since I’ve done plugs on one of those so I don’t remember which method I used.
@uncletofu4500 worked for a 2018 H6 outback. The spark plug socket I've use is the gear wrench with the 1" extension attached, I then use my 1/4 drive ratchet with a 3/8 adapter, probably a bit tighter than removing all the topside stuff, but I've not had any trouble as far as making time is concerned.
Awesome video. That’s a great tip about aligning the engine first to give the lobes more clearance, I never would have realized that and just struggled ha. I’ve got to do this procedure on my VA WRX and this is a great help.
Great video - answers a number of questions that I have had over the last few years. My Subaru dealership insisted that the engine had to be pulled from my 2015 Forester in order to replace a leaking cam carrier seal. I let them do that - the work was covered under warranty - the car only had about 38K miles on it (it would have been $2500 out of warranty). I had been told that the cam carrier covers had no gaskets. That does not appear to be true. It appears that it is much easier to replace the spark plugs if the cam carrier covers are removed.
I just commented on your video of how easy these are to work on, well for spark plugs yeah, kinda, however I have 2016 OB 3.6r and out of no where it began to shudder and the CEL came on, so I figured ok seems like I lost a coil or something, still ran thank god, but I pulled the code and I had P0300, and P0303. I picked up a coil for 89 and a NGK spark plug just because why not if I am in there replace it. So once I did that, I started it back up and it cleared the P0300 then a P0302 popped in there, so I did some research and checked the VVT's, cleaned and tested them, cleaned the PCV valve and still, runs like crap and throwing codes still. So I called Subaru dealer and took it there, they replaced all the spark plugs, said the cylinders looked good but #2 was fowling out still, so $1100 in now and it's still there. I have only had this car for like 4 months, has 116k on it, so I guess the OB only has 100K then die? I mean it ran perfectly fine for the past 2 months, clean oil, burns that as I guess thats what these do but this has to be electrical, to suddenly go from perfect to garbo while going 70 on the highway. Anyone else have issues with Gen5 3.6R at 116Kish?
Thank you Mr Subaru for all your videos with excellent Subaru information. I own a 2019 Impreza and now looking to buy a 2023 Forestet. I'm fully on-board with Subaru. All the best to you from Australia
Thanks for the video Robert nicely done 👍❤❤it. I did this last year tube seals were hard and just broke apart. Take care of yourself and family and Girlfriend and be Blessed.
I am so glad for your video, MrSubaru! Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have this exact model and I am hoping to see videos on complete brake fluid flush and coolant flush. I changed my spark plugs last week and it took me ALL day! First, it took awhile to remove that battery box because of the two lower bolts. Then I had to run to the store to buy a new torque wrench with a flex head to be able to torque spark plugs correctly. Sure enough all the spark plugs were under torqued.
Thank you first of all, for your invaluable guides. I am unsure about how you aligned the pulley before beginning the task. I get the belt removal, but you were too fast for me on that alignment. what do I have to move and how. Do I need this for both cam covers? It's not that us DIY numptys are dumb, I certainly am just ignorant on stuff that you are clearly the reverse upon.. Over here in France, there are very few Subaru dealers, so it is down to me to do as much as I can to keep my Outback 2.5 2016 model running well. Thanks again. Joe O
Insta360 would be great for getting in those tight spaces and still being able to get a good shot of the action. Might also make a good channel sponsor.
Dear Mr. Subaru, thanks for your guidance & advice. I went to do plugs on a Legacy GT Wagon. I stopped after the first plug, it felt so tight, galling sounds as I started...even the coil retaining bolt was making that galled sound and heat soaked...It felt like a plug may break... Have you had any horror events like a plug shearing off? Hope to hear from you sir...
How are you able to tell the difference between a cam cover vers a cam carrier oil leak? I have oil seepage around the fuel rail area on the passenger side.
Regarding the crank pulley I put it at 0 like you mentioned but when I’m done do I leave it the same or am I supposed to move it to a different number ?
Just leave it. The reason for aligning the crane pulley is to rotate the camshaft to have the back lobes pointing towards the ceiling or the floor. If they are pointing towards the tires, they will block the valve cover from coming out. Once you've completed the job, starting the engine will cause the pulley to spin; lobes have adequate space inside the properly attached cover.
If doing this in the rust belt; replace the lower 3 valve cover bolts with new ones; not sure about the middle two since I own older EJs with only 6 bolts each side. I’ve never had any rust issues with the top 3 bolts
Great video. On question. Is there enough space to bring the cover down and remove it from under the vehicle? I need to do this job for my daughter's car. Thank you.
Robert do you think that was the OE sealant from Subaru that was on those cam covers? Either way those ground straps look destroyed on the passenger side of the spark plugs!
Did the spark plugs on my 08 Legacy recently and had to loosen the fuse box too to get my manual torque wrench in the space. I see you have a Snap-on electric but what is the other one you are using or what would you recommend? Thanks.
I am getting ready to put my subi 2011 Outback in the garage to replace O' rings for the cross-over and EVERYTHING! Under the intake that I can find needing replaced. Your videos are a BIG!!! help.
So I got the old seals back and the new seals in but the Plug well seals don't look like they are touching the cover...not to sure what to do. OEM parts.
Do you think if I raise the motor up an inch, will it give me enough space to pull the valve cover off freely instead of removing the serpentine to align the crank pulley?
Thinking my leak is the rocker box section to the head not the rocker/Valve cover gasket? I have two puddles of oil sitting on top side next to the injector anyway nice video thanks.
The stealership quoted us over $3,000 to replace the same seal on my wife's 15' Impreza 2.0L. They said it's a 20hr job. Looks like a tighter fit than on that Outback, but still might be doable.
Im doing my 2016 crosstrek this weekend. What did you use to clean the coils? Did you just use the brake parts cleaner? I did my spark plugs last weekend and discovered had oil all over the coils. So now I have everything I need to replace the seals on the cover and around the SP tubes. Thanks for your time and sharing with us .
Pop question, would the coils be damaged by the intrusion of engine oil and would it be recommended to clean out the spark plug tubes prior to removing the old spark plugs?
My mechanic says she needs to replace the exhaust manifold to pipe gasket and exhaust pipe gasket because the related parts need to be removed for the repair - however no mention of that in the video. Any thoughts?
Robert do you like working on the F engine and is this one different than your 2014 Outback that you had? It certainly looks like those plugs were never changed.
Don't get hung up on using only OEM Subaru oil filters no matter what the color. Their filters are designed to last only 6K miles and are constructed very cheaply. I know as I have cut open several of them. Remember, Subaru recommends changing the oil and filter at 6 mo/6K miles to maintain the warranty. Any name brand aftermarket filter will last this long and is just fine. 32:59
I remember simpler days when changing spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor took about one hour or less start to finish, and very little in the way. Sad 😞
I have 2015 Subaru Impreza Hatchback 4 doors 1.6 L from Japan. Are the spareparts in this video fit to my vehicle? I see the cam cover in this video same to my vehicle. Thx.
After all this was the problem fixed? I am very curios because I have exact same car even color and during acceleration and deceleration it stumbles hard, shakes the car.
Just wish i could figure out why it idles so low did everything possible still can’t figure it out. 3 months now love my Outback but not good with it’s mechanics
Mr. Subaru, I watch your videos all the time and work on my 2016 Subaru outback limited 2.5. I have a ? Do you have any idea where I could order the replacement metal clip on the spark plug ignition connection to the main wiring harness. I was replacing the cam cover gaskets, and ignition coils and one of the springs flew off and I cannot find it. I went to Subaru dealer and they told me they do not sell that metal clip that I would have to buy the entire engine wiring harness. The service manager told me that I could zip tie it to keep it from coming loose. Do you have any ideas where I could buy a replacement from? Thank you, and keep up the good work you do to help people to work on their own Subarus. You have saved my thousands of dollars.
Would this be the similar repair to a 2019 Impreza 2.0? or would it be too tight of a space to get the cover out being a smaller car? Thank you for the awesome video and channel!!
Do you have any idea how many miles were on that car when the cam covers started leaking? I have a 2017 but low miles. Wondering if I should be getting prepared. Mahalo!
I am quite curious if on this car with all the engine work it would actually be easier to pull the engine do all of the work and put it back in. I'm actually glad that you don't because you are doing the job the way that I will do it in my garage.
Does anyone know if the old tube seals (10966AA041) are significantly different than their replacement part (10966AA042)? I did my left side with 10966AA041 (discontinued) and wonder if I should get 10966AA042 for the right side.
You remind me of Edd China on Wheeler Dealers. He would do one job and then put all the pieces back on. And then remove the same pieces to do another job. Great teaching technique in case a person only watches one video.
Had the dealer quote me $3500 for this fix, really appreciate your videos lol! I was able to do this myself!
That’s robbery
lol
The mechanic was prob talk about the gasket underneath the cams which u have to take the cams out their actually called the cam cover gasket what he's doing here is the valve cover gasket which u would think he know this but it don't look like it
$3500 from the Stealer for $400 local mechanics work. Absolute theft
I just did this job on my '17 Forester on the drivers side. Pretty much identical to this. Cleaning off the old RTV is a nightmare. I used headless bolts screwed into the fuel rail cover holes as alignment pins to replace the cover. Putting the front of the vehicle on ramps and removing the plastic skid plate helped for getting at those bottom bolts and for cleaning off the old RTV.
I have 2017 forester. Every 45thousand mile need replacement lower control arm and front alxe.
@@sulin422 I'm at 165K and still on the original ones. I will be doing the lower control arm in a few days though.
Good to know
Just had my dealer quote $1495 for just the gasket replacements no spark plugs. Thanks for all you help and Subaru Parts Deal rock.
i have a 2010 Outback. The driver's side cam cover would not come out. It hit the frame rail. Looks like they fixed that error and the job is so much easier. Lucky you.
It was not easy adjusting valves on the EJ253 in my 2010 OB because that rocker cover wouldn't come out. I got it done but the neighbors heard me "encouraging" myself doing it...
I’ve done a video on a 2011. Same engine. You just need to lift the fuel rail and injectors to pull those.
If you would've set the timing to 0 u dprob would've been able to pull the valve cover gasket off
I just replace the spark plugs, gasket, engine oil, oil filter.
Now the car engine is quiet and more power, no leaking oil👍👍👍save save 💰💰💰 thanks from 🇦🇺
2015 2.5i Outback with 89000 miles from Southern California Thanks for the post 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
I'm so happy Mr.Subaru bought this Outback. We have two of these in our family, and they need a lot of similar work done. A few days ago I changed the spark plugs on mine, but had a hard time putting back on the rear ignition coil pigtails, it just wouldn't go all the way in. Looked like the internal red rubber seal inside the pigtail connectors either swelled up or got loose. After half an hour fighting with it I just decided to pull the seal out, and connect without it. Hopefully this will cause any issues in the future.
easy-ish lol
I did chuckle a bit at this ;)
I changed plugs on my 2014 outback and it had dry plug holes :) [wow I was happy about that!]
my sisters 2011 outback had a little oil [about a 1/4" ] in the drivers side. [ugh]
I hadnt seen a vid on this, but thought that was bad.
before removing the plug I Sprayed brake cleen down there & blew it out [messy] then wiped with paper towels to be sure.
the front plug hole had a little oil there [So I repeated the clean up] & told my sister what I found.
she told me to just put it back together so she could drive it [eek] so I did. . .
a couple years later It still running good - so there it is
I recommended she have a shop do the seal work, But now I see you do it - "maybe" I can do it.
with the extra time to do it.
I have a shop n tools. just need to buy those little hands and while In at buying stuff,
might as well order longer fingers too ;)
I was super glad my 2014 was good. I keep the engine bay clean, So it "looks" better anyway ;)
I sure appreciate your video's and bought myself a few tools as I see those I needed.
do wish my hands were smaller. Your Engine bays have more room than mine does :)
Thank you for making it look easier - ish ;)
FYI, these repairs he's been doing up to this point can also be applied to Legacy's from 2015-2019. Same engine and tranny, just a different body on top. Just did my driver side CV axle replacement this morning in my Legacy using his torque specs and techniques. Went very smooth minus the stupid diff seal. That sucker was a PITA to get out. No more clicking on left turns!
I've got a 2015 also, found that my misfire issues like yours was actually due to a failing coil pack on the cylinder closest the battery. Dealer had recommended checking this one as they mentioned that they have seen a high failure rate on that specific cylinder.
Also changing plugs on this model has to be one of the hardest on any Subaru, I've done , due to that battery mount
I just found out I have same problem with my 2015 Outback 😂. This video will be helpful do this job 👍
thank you so much, i was dreading doing the spark plugs on my 2013 Crosstrek, it was actually super easy, the only trick i can add is dont click the ratchet all the way onto the extension or itll be hard to hit the button to unlock it while pulling it back at the same time... or just use a ratchet that doesnt lock the sockets on... either way, all i needed was a 8mm socket, 10mm shallow socket, 10mm deep socket, i used a regular old Husky 3/8th ratchet to break the plugs loose then used my Tekton super compact 3/8 to spin it out more then just spun it with my fingers on the 3" wobble extension (wobble makes it a lot easier to get in and out without taking the extension out of the 14mm spark plug socket with spring retainers... with your guidance i had it done easily without any spearing in well under an hour.
one thhing that concerns me, the coils seemed faily "plugged in" to the spark plugs when i removed them, but when i put them back, they didnt really pop on, they felt like they kinda just butted into the holes and were fully dependent on the bolts to keep them from literally falling out... car ran better than before though when i fired it up so seemingly runs fine... the old plugs had hardly any center electrode left, and the outer electrodes were all very eroded as well, color was good, just a light browning... car has 197K miles on in, plugs havent been changed since the last under warranty scheduled maintenance (if ever)... they looked really really worn out... like a tiny little sliver of electrode, barely even visible... like the tip of a sewing needle... 20-25% of new width approximately and about double or triple the gap...
3 of my plug well seals are leaking though... and one camcover in another place... not terrible leaks, but definitely weeping a tad.. which is why im here... ha...
also on the menu are front and rear CV axles, wheel bearings and brakes... most of the parts are sitting on my living room waiting to be installed...
shes also due for another oil change, CVT flush, differential fluid change, alll four struts....
Ii drive the ever loving piss out of it, even full to the brim with 500 pounds of carpentry tools, i drive it like im on a race track... i pass every car on the road, even the ones that think theyre fast... im truly amazed at the reliabiluity and durability of these subarus, though i do dispise the CVT... this is the first one ive owned and will most definitely be the last. its so bad.... always in too tall of gear untill you hit the downshift paddle one more time then its at redline and doesnt wanna "upshift" again... my next car will be a manual again... i bought this one because the salesman said "The CVT is essentially a manual without a clutch so it shifts instantly and doesnt lose power between shifts"... and on the round the block test drive in city traffic it seemed ok... but in the twisties or if you wanna get after it, its god fucking awful... and does not in any way match the sporty handling and feel of subaru cars... all my prior subarus were manual and all my future ones willl be too, now.
Another excellent video. Carbon filter delete mod. Very nice. I'm really loving this series. Thank you for bringing us along on this restoration.
Your video saved me the hassle of doing the cam covers the factory manual way, which says to remove the crossover exhaust pipe. Great to know it can all be done from above. Thank you!
Easy-ish? NOPE, I'm way to old & green to tackle most things on these Subaru's. I'm getting to the point of thinking I might have to sell it in a few years. They're just so complicated in the layers of things to come off for what used to be really easy, changing plugs. I say bless you for keeping your cool & having the knowledge to do this stuff. Thanks for all your hard work & patience in sharing. Stay blessed
In comparison to other makes/models, Subarus are simple to work on.
After working on my Subaru for a while, I scoff when buddies ask me for help with their other makes. To me, Subarus are very simple
Really well done video, I will be rewatching this one for sure when I tackle this project myself
I was just about looking for the exact repair video as a referreference this weekend, and you just post it！Bang on and thanks for the great video
Hey Mr Subaru. I just did this repair and everything went well but I just started the car and the check engine, cruise control and the x-mode lights are on. Not sure what to do now. I have feeling it has something to do with the battery being out for so long but not sure.
Mistake at 7:45 mark. The FSM states that after the crank pulley timing mark is lined up with the 0 degree mark on the chain cover the crankshaft then gets rotated 180 degrees clockwise from that point. That fact was left out of this video.
Is this accurate? I get nervous touching crankshaft
I don't know about all the technicians at Subaru, but when replacing spark plugs as a maintenance, I do that from the bottom on both H4 and H6 engines. Cam covers are definitely a top side job, though.
I’ve done plugs on 4 of these newer Subaru FA/FB engines and they were all a breeze from the top. Just take off the intake (usually 2-3 bolts) and remove the battery, slide the ECU up and out of the way, and then it’s no problem reach each spark plug from the top with a swivel head ratchet and a 4” extension on the spark plug socket. I never needed any of the janky socket swivels that people like to recommend either.
It may be easier from the bottom with EJ engines though. It’s been 10 years since I’ve done plugs on one of those so I don’t remember which method I used.
@blueridge8992 Just have to remove the belly pan from the bottom, 1/4 drive short 12 for the coils, I have the gearwrench socket, which does well.
Never removed plugs from underneath
@uncletofu4500 worked for a 2018 H6 outback. The spark plug socket I've use is the gear wrench with the 1" extension attached, I then use my 1/4 drive ratchet with a 3/8 adapter, probably a bit tighter than removing all the topside stuff, but I've not had any trouble as far as making time is concerned.
Just did this repair on my 17 Outback. Ridiculously helpful guide! Nice work!
All that in 33 minutes, a piece of cake, thanks
Bet that thing'll run like a scalded dog now
You gotta show it running! Such a tease!
Awesome video. That’s a great tip about aligning the engine first to give the lobes more clearance, I never would have realized that and just struggled ha. I’ve got to do this procedure on my VA WRX and this is a great help.
Great video - answers a number of questions that I have had over the last few years. My Subaru dealership insisted that the engine had to be pulled from my 2015 Forester in order to replace a leaking cam carrier seal. I let them do that - the work was covered under warranty - the car only had about 38K miles on it (it would have been $2500 out of warranty). I had been told that the cam carrier covers had no gaskets. That does not appear to be true. It appears that it is much easier to replace the spark plugs if the cam carrier covers are removed.
I'm at a loss. Was wanting to hear it run
my sister in law has a 2001 outback the chain only rattles for 2 second when started cold , but it runs so well for its age .
Thank you for the video you are awesome!!! I changed my valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals on my 2015 Outback. Oil leak fixed.
I just commented on your video of how easy these are to work on, well for spark plugs yeah, kinda, however I have 2016 OB 3.6r and out of no where it began to shudder and the CEL came on, so I figured ok seems like I lost a coil or something, still ran thank god, but I pulled the code and I had P0300, and P0303. I picked up a coil for 89 and a NGK spark plug just because why not if I am in there replace it. So once I did that, I started it back up and it cleared the P0300 then a P0302 popped in there, so I did some research and checked the VVT's, cleaned and tested them, cleaned the PCV valve and still, runs like crap and throwing codes still. So I called Subaru dealer and took it there, they replaced all the spark plugs, said the cylinders looked good but #2 was fowling out still, so $1100 in now and it's still there. I have only had this car for like 4 months, has 116k on it, so I guess the OB only has 100K then die? I mean it ran perfectly fine for the past 2 months, clean oil, burns that as I guess thats what these do but this has to be electrical, to suddenly go from perfect to garbo while going 70 on the highway. Anyone else have issues with Gen5 3.6R at 116Kish?
Perfect. Thanks very much. I'll keep this vid handy when it's time for me to do this on my '17 Outback. Appreciate you sir!
Thank you Mr Subaru for all your videos with excellent Subaru information. I own a 2019 Impreza and now looking to buy a 2023 Forestet. I'm fully on-board with Subaru. All the best to you from Australia
Thanks for the video Robert nicely done 👍❤❤it. I did this last year tube seals were hard and just broke apart. Take care of yourself and family and Girlfriend and be Blessed.
Nice job Mr S! Nice small headed ratchet with a long handle!
Yup. Snap-on TLLF72 is almost a requirement for work on Subaru. Love it. Have a couple different ones. One is converted to 3/8”
@@MrSubaru1387I sneak in with a Pittsburgh Pro #00351 works great!
I am so glad for your video, MrSubaru! Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have this exact model and I am hoping to see videos on complete brake fluid flush and coolant flush.
I changed my spark plugs last week and it took me ALL day! First, it took awhile to remove that battery box because of the two lower bolts. Then I had to run to the store to buy a new torque wrench with a flex head to be able to torque spark plugs correctly. Sure enough all the spark plugs were under torqued.
Man Subaru needs to come up with a genius way to make this easier. Maybe removable frame rails lol 😂 Good job as usual 👍
Great video! 17:58 having a similar issue with my 15 crosstrek. Parts ordered! Ready to tackle!
Nice video. Please show us a video changing the spark plugs on the BRZ. Even less space to work if you don’t jack up the engine. Not a fun job.
I wish I could donate the discount to the channel.
Thank you first of all, for your invaluable guides. I am unsure about how you aligned the pulley before beginning the task. I get the belt removal, but you were too fast for me on that alignment. what do I have to move and how. Do I need this for both cam covers? It's not that us DIY numptys are dumb, I certainly am just ignorant on stuff that you are clearly the reverse upon.. Over here in France, there are very few Subaru dealers, so it is down to me to do as much as I can to keep my Outback 2.5 2016 model running well.
Thanks again.
Joe O
The little soo-bar-oooo. Wow
Insta360 would be great for getting in those tight spaces and still being able to get a good shot of the action.
Might also make a good channel sponsor.
Dear Mr. Subaru, thanks for your guidance & advice. I went to do plugs on a Legacy GT Wagon. I stopped after the first plug, it felt so tight, galling sounds as I started...even the coil retaining bolt was making that galled sound and heat soaked...It felt like a plug may break...
Have you had any horror events like a plug shearing off?
Hope to hear from you sir...
My forester with 209k miles just got the head gaskets and 4 wheel bearings done
Subaru should raise the frame rails so you could get at the heads by removing the front fender liners.
How are you able to tell the difference between a cam cover vers a cam carrier oil leak? I have oil seepage around the fuel rail area on the passenger side.
Since you had the battery out do you need to do a idol relearn?
I was going to ask this as well, hope he answers
Do you have a link for that torque wrench you're using for the cam cover bolts? I couldn't find it in your list of tools.
NVM, looked closely at your video and saw it was snap-on, found it.
@@SimpleTV-g5n is that 1/4 or 3/8
Do you have to wait for the rtv to set up before you drive ?
Regarding the crank pulley I put it at 0 like you mentioned but when I’m done do I leave it the same or am I supposed to move it to a different number ?
Just leave it. The reason for aligning the crane pulley is to rotate the camshaft to have the back lobes pointing towards the ceiling or the floor. If they are pointing towards the tires, they will block the valve cover from coming out.
Once you've completed the job, starting the engine will cause the pulley to spin; lobes have adequate space inside the properly attached cover.
If doing this in the rust belt; replace the lower 3 valve cover bolts with new ones; not sure about the middle two since I own older EJs with only 6 bolts each side. I’ve never had any rust issues with the top 3 bolts
Cleanly done Rober. Nice work 👍
Did that fix the misfires? And perceived transmission issues?
Great video. On question. Is there enough space to bring the cover down and remove it from under the vehicle? I need to do this job for my daughter's car. Thank you.
Robert do you think that was the OE sealant from Subaru that was on those cam covers? Either way those ground straps look destroyed on the passenger side of the spark plugs!
Gerat Video, What type of RTV did you use ? or what will be the best for Outback ?
Does the oil need to be drained from the engine before removing the Cam Cover? Can you say more about the blet location you set?
Thanks for the video. As always you make this look easy. I’m guessing you had about 3 to 4 hrs at least.👍
Nice informative video.
Why can't people use a funnel?
Half the time, I make one from an old quart bottle, or empty TECHRON bottle.
Did the spark plugs on my 08 Legacy recently and had to loosen the fuse box too to get my manual torque wrench in the space. I see you have a Snap-on electric but what is the other one you are using or what would you recommend? Thanks.
doing cam covers 15 outback 2.5 when putting the engine TDC as you showed the notch on zero does it matter #1 TDC or #2 TDC
I am getting ready to put my subi 2011 Outback in the garage to replace O' rings for the cross-over and EVERYTHING! Under the intake that I can find needing replaced. Your videos are a BIG!!! help.
So I got the old seals back and the new seals in but the Plug well seals don't look like they are touching the cover...not to sure what to do. OEM parts.
Huge help! Domo Arigato! Mr. Subaru Roboto!
Do you think if I raise the motor up an inch, will it give me enough space to pull the valve cover off freely instead of removing the serpentine to align the crank pulley?
Thinking my leak is the rocker box section to the head not the rocker/Valve cover gasket? I have two puddles of oil sitting on top side next to the injector anyway nice video thanks.
On more question. Where can a buy a technical service manual for a 2016 Subaru Outback 2.5. So that I can print out?
The stealership quoted us over $3,000 to replace the same seal on my wife's 15' Impreza 2.0L. They said it's a 20hr job. Looks like a tighter fit than on that Outback, but still might be doable.
Im doing my 2016 crosstrek this weekend. What did you use to clean the coils? Did you just use the brake parts cleaner? I did my spark plugs last weekend and discovered had oil all over the coils. So now I have everything I need to replace the seals on the cover and around the SP tubes. Thanks for your time and sharing with us .
I've got this same question. Just brake cleaner or soapy water?
Pop question, would the coils be damaged by the intrusion of engine oil and would it be recommended to clean out the spark plug tubes prior to removing the old spark plugs?
awesome series, can't wait for the next one.
Great video....would those part numbers work for a 2012 2.5 Outback?
After crank pulley is turned to 0 and all replacements are finished, it should be returned to its position before we set it to 0 right ?
My mechanic says she needs to replace the exhaust manifold to pipe gasket and exhaust pipe gasket because the related parts need to be removed for the repair - however no mention of that in the video. Any thoughts?
Robert do you like working on the F engine and is this one different than your 2014 Outback that you had?
It certainly looks like those plugs were never changed.
Is the 2015 Forester the same for cam cover gasket replacement or do I have to lift engine for cover removal.
How similar would this exact process be on a 2014 Outback 2.5? Been needing to get the gaskets replaced
How much time did this job take? My ‘11 Outback has leaking cam covers, needs spark plugs. Just need an idea of labor involved.
subaru parts deals is terrible. Ordered black made in Japan oil filters and got sent blue ones and would not let me return them. beware
Thanks for the heads up. I got a blue one from the dealership, and it was much smaller than the MIJ ones. I went with a WIX that was the same size.
@@stevef3521Wix are actually tested superior than OEM filters for Subaru. That includes air filters also.
Don't get hung up on using only OEM Subaru oil filters no matter what the color. Their filters are designed to last only 6K miles and are constructed very cheaply. I know as I have cut open several of them. Remember, Subaru recommends changing the oil and filter at 6 mo/6K miles to maintain the warranty. Any name brand aftermarket filter will last this long and is just fine. 32:59
Carquest oil filter from Napa actually rebrands WIX as of now with better seals. Just a fyi
I wish I had a MrSubaru in San Antonio
I remember simpler days when changing spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor took about one hour or less start to finish, and very little in the way. Sad 😞
I wish I could send my car to you. Nice job
I have 2015 Subaru Impreza Hatchback 4 doors 1.6 L from Japan. Are the spareparts in this video fit to my vehicle? I see the cam cover in this video same to my vehicle. Thx.
After all this was the problem fixed? I am very curios because I have exact same car even color and during acceleration and deceleration it stumbles hard, shakes the car.
Just wish i could figure out why it idles so low did everything possible still can’t figure it out.
3 months now love my Outback but not good with it’s mechanics
Mr. Subaru, I watch your videos all the time and work on my 2016 Subaru outback limited 2.5. I have a ? Do you have any idea where I could order the replacement metal clip on the spark plug ignition connection to the main wiring harness. I was replacing the cam cover gaskets, and ignition coils and one of the springs flew off and I cannot find it. I went to Subaru dealer and they told me they do not sell that metal clip that I would have to buy the entire engine wiring harness. The service manager told me that I could zip tie it to keep it from coming loose. Do you have any ideas where I could buy a replacement from? Thank you, and keep up the good work you do to help people to work on their own Subarus. You have saved my thousands of dollars.
Would this be the same for a 2015crosstrack? Fb20
Would this be the similar repair to a 2019 Impreza 2.0? or would it be too tight of a space to get the cover out being a smaller car? Thank you for the awesome video and channel!!
Do you have any idea how many miles were on that car when the cam covers started leaking? I have a 2017 but low miles. Wondering if I should be getting prepared. Mahalo!
I am quite curious if on this car with all the engine work it would actually be easier to pull the engine do all of the work and put it back in. I'm actually glad that you don't because you are doing the job the way that I will do it in my garage.
For him it probably would be lol
Which snap on torque wrench do you use? And what’s a cheaper option for a torque wrench?
Great job as usual, very detailed 👍
Is the spare part use is same to subaru impreza impreza 2015 1.6L hatchback?
Does anyone remove front motor mount bolt and transmission mounts and jack up engine ?
Not needed.
I had to on my brz but not on my cross trek.
@@jeffreygoss8109it’s not necessary on the BRZ, but makes it easier. I’d like to see Mr. Subaru change them on his BRZ.
I had to take the front driver side wheel off to get to the two battery tray bolts attached to the frame rail. I didn’t put them back in.
32:59 I used a long double box ratcheting wrench to remove these almost inaccessible 14mm bolts.
Great video! Did it fix the hiccup issue?
Does anyone know if the 2024 2.5 engine in the crosstreks still use timing chains vs belts?
It’s chains. They’re all chains now.
@@MrSubaru1387 thanks for the reply! I'm waiting on a crosstrek now.
@@jimr549That should be a good engine for Crosstrek.
When would you normally replace the ignition coils?
Only when they fail.
What model RTV silicon do you recommend? Blue, Red, does it matter?
Permatex ultra grey or black only.
Does anyone know if the old tube seals (10966AA041) are significantly
different than their replacement part (10966AA042)? I did my left side with 10966AA041 (discontinued)
and wonder if I should get 10966AA042 for the right side.