This one is better than the other Steinar Molex crimping video - this one makes it clear you're supposed to use different sides of the tool for the first (wire) tabs as opposed to the second (insulation) tabs.
Thanks for a wonderful detailed video, certainly it is helpful for me. In addition, As the B-model SMB, although the connection speed is faster than A, sales is not as follows. and i think elecbee connectors from CHIna can be believable.
can you recommend a ratcheting crimper for doing very small open barrell wire crimps(22-28awg). I want one that gets everything done in one swipe and clean. The tools I have seem to take two swipes to get one done and in some cases it
I have the exact crimpers and A B on mine is shaped with that curve and point, like the C D E. I think the right way with that terminal would have been crimp using D slot then finish the insulated using C or B
+SteinAir Thanks, I checked them out, but they would still require a lot of assembly after the crimping is complete. I think I'll either buy molex extension cords, cut them in half, strip the wires then connect them to my robot, or pay for custom plugs to be manufactured, which might work out to be both cheaper and easier. Connectors are usually the last thing to consider but they are the most painful to deal with.
I've been building harnesses for a few months now and find the bare wire crimp fairly easy but the stress relief crimp around the jacket is time consuming.Is there a quick way to do those in 1 shot?I find that I have to keep turning the wire and smashing that arm all around the jacket.Hope what I'm saying makes sense.
Your B is smaller that D! I saw similar crimpers and B is larger than D! Isn't logical that B is larger than D knowing that A is the largest and E the thiner?
That's ridiculous. Just use the correct pin and crimp tool. In all my life I have never seen anyone grind down a crimp tool or cut and modify a connector pin.
I like the way you trimmed the tips of the back before crimping. Helped me get a better and rounded crimp. Thanks!
Expertly done. To a novice like me it opens up a new world of computer maintenance.
This one is better than the other Steinar Molex crimping video - this one makes it clear you're supposed to use different sides of the tool for the first (wire) tabs as opposed to the second (insulation) tabs.
Great video! Thanks for sharing. You saved me from having to buying a $240 TE connectivity specialty tool for a one-off job with this walkthrough!
I agree, this is a good video even though it went a bit out of focus at times. Good video.
Is there a way to uncrimp the wire? How do I remove the steel pins of the wire that are crimped without damaging it?
Thanks for a wonderful detailed video, certainly it is helpful for me. In addition, As the B-model SMB, although the connection speed is faster than A, sales is not as follows. and i think elecbee connectors from CHIna can be believable.
do you have a part number for that crimp i am trying to track one down with more size options on it
What brand and model number crimper are you using?
can you recommend a ratcheting crimper for doing very small open barrell wire crimps(22-28awg). I want one that gets everything done in one swipe and clean. The tools I have seem to take two swipes to get one done and in some cases it
I have the exact crimpers and A B on mine is shaped with that curve and point, like the C D E. I think the right way with that terminal would have been crimp using D slot then finish the insulated using C or B
I need to attach over 10,000 molex 9 pin connectors, (both male plugs and female sockets of course). Your method seems kind of slow. Any tips?
+Zxenmusic With that kind of quantity you should just buy a crimping press (automated) and buy the pins on a full reel!
+SteinAir Thanks, I checked them out, but they would still require a lot of assembly after the crimping is complete. I think I'll either buy molex extension cords, cut them in half, strip the wires then connect them to my robot, or pay for custom plugs to be manufactured, which might work out to be both cheaper and easier. Connectors are usually the last thing to consider but they are the most painful to deal with.
+Zxenmusic You also could contact us directly for a quote on having the connectors/harnesses made for you to your spec's....
There are crimp tools that do both tabs at once and (apparently) don't require having the long tabs trimmed.
I've been building harnesses for a few months now and find the bare wire crimp fairly easy but the stress relief crimp around the jacket is time consuming.Is there a quick way to do those in 1 shot?I find that I have to keep turning the wire and smashing that arm all around the jacket.Hope what I'm saying makes sense.
When buying pins - What is meant by "B-WIND - Right Payoff" and/or "D-WIND - Left Payoff" ?
Beats The Hell Out of Me.
Thank you for your video, very helpful
Useful video. Thanks. When you say, "line it up" - what are you lining up with what?
Who makes that tool you’re using? That’s exactly what I need.
Looks identical to my 1026 CT Crimp Tool by Sargent Quality Tools
What size is that pin
Where to get the tool
Thank you.
Did you mean as I can't see?
Your B is smaller that D! I saw similar crimpers and B is larger than D! Isn't logical that B is larger than D knowing that A is the largest and E the thiner?
That's ridiculous. Just use the correct pin and crimp tool. In all my life I have never seen anyone grind down a crimp tool or cut and modify a connector pin.
I highly doubt this is IPC compliant either!
If you want it replacement, please contact me.
Focus....focus.....focus...im going crosseyed
Thank you for your video, but bit too out of focus and out of frame. Frustrating to watch.
I fucking hate these barrel terminals. Such a terrible design.