should have done a better job explaining the differences between the 1023E and 1025R specifically the 3 point differences. position control vs pilot control.
@@reaperhunter7297 you are correct he called them R4 AG tires. I did not catch that the first time. I noticed they requested turf tires (R3) but got the better R14 hybrid tires.
Shocked the sales guy didn’t push 1025r the added features are definitely worth it better deal with loader and mowing deck or even a back hoe. They bought the box blade but forgot what the sales guy said about the 3 point height lock and altitude issue! Does the 1023 take the 72 inch mowing deck? not busting on the 1023e it’s just very entry level and the 1025r is way better at snow.
Just came to say the same thing. Good to hear a sales guy with confidence in the product he is selling. Always liked John Deere as well and learned some good things about their smaller tractors. Nice job TFL! I can't imagine your bills at this point. Wow!
I own a 1025R, and it's the best little tool I've ever owned, and it's just a great little tractor. But it can be tippy, so I would highly recommend getting a beet juice ballast in your rear tires ASAP. And buy the front-end loader; you will use it more than ever imagined.
As a long time subscriber and a big tractor guy, go back and buy the loader! Worth its weight in gold and resale value. 95% of people buying these tractors are homeowners who want a loader. You’ll thank yourself later. If JD changes the loaders 5 years from now you’ll never be able to find one then.
A backhoe but no loader - you would think there would be an error code in JD’s sales system to prevent selling it like that without two keys turned at the same time and a notarized waiver. Definitely some hasty decision making for such a big purchase
A compact or sub compact should always have a loader. Except if you are planning on using the tractor only for lawn mowing. But if it's the case, a zero turn would probably be a better choice. So my point is like the other just said, buy the loader.
I have a 2005 John Deere 2210 with the 23 HP Yanmar Diesel. It's been basically maintenance free other than oil and filter/grease jobs. R4 tires I think are better. I mostly cut grass with a 62" deck but I have the front loader and box scraper for maintaining my gravel drive. I've only replaced the batter 2 times and that's it! The two pedals sold me rather than a crappy rocker pedal for reverse. Your Achilles tendon will thank you! Go Green!
Always throttle down before turning off the engine, also if your using it, alway idle the engine for 30 seconds for cooling it down before shut off. I have a Kubota with the engine blown because the operator kept it on full throttle all the time.
@@advancedscarecrow I don't think they're talking about the entire Channel, I think they're talking about this new particular direction they've been going in.
I bought a X758. It has the same engine that is in the 1025E. It is a AWESOME for year round work. It plows through deep wet snow and keeps on pushing . It makes you look forward to lawn cutting or blizzards because it is FUN! Very well built and a pleasure to drive.
You’re going to LOVE that tractor… although, the 1025 has a better seat (not just armrests). The dealer should have set up each implement for you, including setting the mower deck level with anti-scalp wheels. You CAN MOW IN REVERSE! They should have told you how! Hold the PTO button when you push reverse pedal each time. I know I’m helping you spend money, but get the LED auxiliary light kit and a iMatch 3 point hitch adapter. Normally, the mower deck is set to level with no implements on the tractor (i.e. loader frame).
I have a 1023e and Chuck you are entirely right that the dealer should have set up each implement. Talking about mowing in reverse, you are also right you just pull up on the mower know each time before pressing the petal for reverse. Another thing is you HAVE to release each of the guide wheels before removing the mower so it will lay completely against the grown when backing over the mower in the removal process. I don't have the turf tires and my tires don't tear up the yard but I really like those turf tires and they should be great in dry dirt. If you didn't get the loader call the dealer back "immediately" and get it. That is what is greatest about a compact tractor. I use mine on a weekly if not daily basis. Everything from moving dirt to lumber to bags of material. I have moved couches, rock, snow, etc. I could go on an on. Either way I think you will find you made a great choice in your tractor. Just keep it close when taking those trucks through the mud and keep it up on dry dirt!!!
@@vicbrown7637 Completely agree about the loader. The same is probably true about John Deeres, but I know with the Kubota BXs, the loader really helps resale value. My BX1880 with loader and 54" mower was about $15k new. On the used market, the same spec'd tractor, even 10-15 years old, goes for about $10k.
I've had a compact (orange) tractor for years and I LOVE IT!! I'm not partial to a specific brand. Most well known brands are excellent. That front bucket will be your most used attachment. A lot easier to move material and lift things especially as i get older (same age as Roman). Mine paid of itself in the first few years I owned..Good maintenance and these things will literally last forever.
Yeah, the bucket will be crucial. Add a tooth bar if you’re really wanting to break up tough dirt. Also I’ve used pallet forks a ton! More than I ever thought.
I found the information on fuel usage eye opening. I have an older Kubota tractor and it will mow 8 hours at full throttle and heavy load on less than 4 gallons of diesel. With diesel prices today fuel consumption on a lawn mower would be a big deal. I mow about 3.5 acres twice a week. After mowing with my John Deere tractor for the first year I bought a zero turn. It cut my mowing time down from about 4 hours to 1 hour. I still have the other tractors and mowers but I never mow with anything but the zero turn.
Hey guys make sure that the in line fuel filter is a diesel filter and not a paper gas one. My neighbor buys a new 1025R every couple years and he was having fuel issues. Come to find out it had a paper gas in line fuel filter and when he went to back to the JD dealership that was what they had listed for the tractor. We put an actual diesel filter on it and haven't had a problem yet.
There are two fuel filters. The paper filter is easy to change and is guaranteed to plug at some point every year. There is a better and second filter under the tractor that will not need changing as often but is much harder to change.
You can mow in reverse, just hold down the yellow pto switch BEFORE going into reverse. Easy peasy. I have the 1025R with loader/mower deck/and a reverse rotation roto tiller. I also recommend getting a cat 1 quick hitch for the 3 point system. Much easier to attach to other 3 point implements, and it extends out the reach by 4 1/2 inchs which means you won't have to trim the pto shafts should you get any rear cat 1 pto driven implements.
If you hold up (or down, depending on the switch style) on the mower engagement switch while reversjng, you can prevent the blades from automatically stopping.
Tell Roman to search for Tractor Time with Tim on UA-cam for tons of how to with this and the 1025R tractor. You should have bought the 1025R, but as long as you are happy, all that matters.
I've had my 1025r going on 5 years now. Fantastic sub-compact. You will be buying all sorts of attachments as the years go by. There are several videos on YT on how you can defeat the "not being able to mow in reverse" mode. It's a real simple process. On my tractor it's a microswitch. On my property where I mow, it's real handy to mow in reverse in certain spots. There is also an adapter kit you can install on your mower deck that you can use your front end loader to attach to the mower deck and raise it vertically to access the blades and for clean out. Umpteen attachments. I bought the 48" forks and for me, that is also handy. Just remember weight and balance. Solid axles mean easy tip over. When using your front end loader, make sure your ballasted correctly on the rear of the tractor. It takes a lot of the weight pressure off of the front axles which means a lot less wear. Good luck and enjoy. Lots to learn.
Yes, being able to back up with the deck engaged is critical, disable that stupid thing immediately! If it DID add ANYTHING to functionally improve the safety of the machine I would be totatlly against disabling it. But how do you reason that pushing that button does anything whatsoever to prevent you from backing over a child or pet or something? Makes no sense whatsoever. Having the distraction of having to push the button probably makes the machine MORE dangerous, not less! Common sense dictates this. Disable that button, other mfg. mowers do not have it because it's just stupid. One of the idiosyncracies of John Deere for sure. All 3 of my JD mowers have this disabled. And I am very safety conscious, a lawn mower can do serious damage if not used carefully.
I love the taming tumbleweed series. I hope you guys keep this going! Look forward to it every Sunday. Yall have some awesome toys and the tractor is another great addition! Looks like fun. Great job yall!
Kubota has one pump that shares output (power) between all tasks. JD has separate pumps, meaning that there's dedicated power to each task. Or at least that's how I recall it.
@@spam22 that small it's one pump, the diverter is physically smaller on the steering side though. Larger ones have multiple pumps but you don't get that on tiny ones like that. There are mods out there to open up that flow and buy bigger pumps but like anything in life when you mod it it's better lol
I wasn't impressed and I've bought a lot of John Deere equipment over the years. He didn't even find the time to tell them about the ROI reverse cutout feature? Or setting the gauge wheels on the deck to around 1/4" above the ground when at the desired cutting height? Or tell them the steering wheel in in an awkward position on the non tilt wheel machines? Or explain that seat has more comfort features (suspension!) than just the armrests? That suspension seat is a bigger deal than the armrests, doesn't jar your back as bad on bumps which gets to be more of a thing as we get older. He should have emphasized those two work lights on the fenders are extremely helpful after dark, the front lights are not that great by themselves (tractor isn't really useable at night). He blew it off like the extra features were no big deal, but they actually are. He was somewhat knowledgable though. Just missed some important points. Also should have emphasized that the X700 series have a better turning radius, a lower center of gravity (more stable on hills) but don't have a ROPS roll bar, and many other differences he didn't mention. Better resale as well. Roman seemed focused on the 1023E though, so he focused on and talked that one up 'cuase it seemed it was what the customer wanted. For a city dude who's out having fun, the extra comfort of a 1025R would seem to be a better choice.
You don't have to on these. I will say, when I bought mine it came with the belly mower with the whole drive over quick connect. It's junk, it constantly needs to be adjusted, things will bend or whatever. Granted, I'm not easy on my stuff, I use it. Maybe I was a bit rough on it. I ended up selling the 60" belly mower and bought an old land pride 72" finish mower and have never looked back.
Just purchased a 1025R back in March. They are phenomenal pieces of equipment and definitely punch above their weight class, for sure. Good luck with it!
$2,400 got you a much nicer seat, arm rests, 2 extra HP, and the hitch height stop. I think you're going to regret not getting the R version in the long run.
And the lights. I bought an R. All the armrests really get used for is to hold a set of ear muffs. I wonder if the 2hp is just marketing, meaning are there REALLY engine differences between the 1023E and 1025R. The hitch stop that the salesperson said was such a great feature is just a $3 piece of metal and plastic and you could literally take a bolt, wing nut and two washers and replicate it yourself. I'm still glad I got the R though, as it's just nicer overall, has cruise control, all the things, and is going to be a lot easier to sell. And I'd always be wondering about those extra 2hp because I do use all the power it's able to put out.
@@spam22 The rocker arm for the 1023E springs back to the middle position. You push it forward and it will lower the mower deck and 3 point arms but when you stop pushing foward it springs back to the middle. Same thing happens when you pull it back to raise.
@@YMF1891 Yeah he did a poor job of explaining the rocker shaft lever vs the simple hydraulic up/down lever. That's a big deal if they actually plan to use that box blade, you absolutely want the position sensitive rocker shaft adjustment lever of the 1025R for that application.
Why is it better? Do you think maybe it's better because you're wanting to feel your brand switch and purchase is justified as a good move which would just be an emotional response? Let me give you a few examples of me high signing things I own against some of their competitors is a similar fashion to what you're doing: -Glocks are better than HK's. -CZ's are better than SIG's. -F150 is better than Ram 1500, GM twins 1500's, and Tundra. -6.7L PSD is better than Cummins, or Duramax. -GEN2 Lightnings are better than Ram SRT10's. -03/04 Cobras are better than C5 Z06's. -LS1 powered GEN4 Fbodys are better than N/A, 4V Mustangs built on the SN95 platform. -GEN6 Camaro SS 1LE's are better than GEN6 Mustang MACH1's. -JD 5E Series is better than Kubota M60 Series. Do you think those blatant statements with 0 context could be seen as offensive to people who've bought products that are competitive to what I own? The problem with you people (and when I say "you people" I mean you people who try and exclusively buy products made by Japanese owned businesses) is you think your chit don't stink and you snub your noses as everyone else who doesn't buy Japanese. A 4Runner owner will say, "that Explorer is a POS." A Camry owner will say, "that Taurus is a POS." A Tacoma owner will say "that Colorado is a POS." A Tundra owner will say "that Ram is a POS." Kubota owners get offended by JD's status and they like to pretend that Deere makes an inferior, chitty product based on no real criteria other than stereotypes and narratives that Japanese products are more reliable and of higher quality than everyone elses stuff, which I often times find to not even be true and I can give examples. Often time the American's who prefers to buy Japanese products (I'm talking Japanese owned businesses, and not necessarily made in Japan) come across like the smug, hybrid driving, San Francisco people on that South Park episode who just want to sniff their own farts and think they're better than everyone else. Are there arrogant, douche JD fanboys. Absolutely. I personally grew up bias toward Ford and Allis-Chalmers. Still if I see a video of someone showing off their Kubota tractor, I don't see a bunch of JD fans commenting on how you should of gone Deere instead unless the video is talking down on JD products. If you have a video of someone showing off a JD with under 100 HP then often the comments are going to start filling up with people trying to push Kubota. Kind of like the OP's comment. Why I get on people who buy Japanese, while at the same time looking down on American and European products is because every time that a Japanese owned company wants to develop for our market, and enter into an area that's traditionally dominated by American businesses, who've developed a product or niche that caters to an American audience (trucks, tractors, guns, etc) is because these people act like the new Japanese product is automatically the best because Japan is better than Merika. While at the same time, and luckily for them our free market allows these foreign companies to sell and compete with our locally owned businesses, but unfortunately for our businesses their economy generally doesn't reciprocate this same free trade. They do a little bit, because they have to, but not nearly on the same scale as we do for them. BTW They're more than happy to buy land on U.S. soil and build a plant to produce a product, and then say, "look at the jobs we're providing for y'all so buy our American made, Japanese products." Funny how Americans aren't allowed to buy land in Japan though.?.? Growing up a Air Force Brat in Okinawa, Japan for a few years in the 80's do you think people were just riding around in their Fords, Chevy's and Plymounths? Nope. They weren't going to let that happen. You were stuck buying Japanese over there. Do you think Tokyo is just full of Tacoma's, Tundras and Browning X-Bolts? I'll give the Japanese one thing. They tend to be a very patriotic people which people should be. They're going to buy a lot more PlayStations than XBOX's. If they do sell any given model of foreign vehicles over there, they're not going to sell well from my understanding partly due to patriotism, and partly due to they tax the crap out of imported cars. Look if you like your Kubota/Kubotas then good. You invested your $ into it then I hope you do like it. Still making baseless claims that Kubota is better than Deere because it's what you decided to buy and you're secretly offended that they used a Deere dealership instead of a Kubota dealer to demonstrate tractor shopping is a Dbag move. If they made a video showing the modern truck buying process, and used a Toyota dealership to shoot the video, and I commented, "I bought a F150 because it's a better valve and better truck" all I'm going to do is look like a douchebag and fire up a bunch of Tundra owners. The fact that they used a JD dealership to make this video shouldn't have offended you to the point of making it about this brand vs that brand. Still thanks for making the comment as I often enjoy writing essays on the UA-cams.
@@JROC7341. John deere tractors are over priced as compared to the competition. 2. The seat in my Kioti is much better than the back busting seat on the 1025R I owned. 3. The Kioti CX2510 is more capable than the 1025R. 4. The drive over mowing deck is a joke. 5. The 3 point hitch is a joke. 6. No real drawbar on the 1025R. 7. John Deere quick hitch isn't compatible with any other brand.
Are you wanting to stunt or talk like men? I do not care that you chose another brand over Deere. I just question peoples motives who like to dog out JD's compared to their more budget minded machines. There are plenty of things that are overpriced compared to other things, but people will spend for them because they're desirable. I find my FN509 to be as good as my Glocks, but I got it for $170 less than a new G45, but I still plan to pick up a G45 at some point because I like them, and think it's an ideal 9MM. (I might splurge and pick up one of those Shadow Systems XR920's instead of a G45 as them mofo's are nice) A SIG P226 is way overpriced compared to what a CZ SP01 had traditionally sold for. With that said CZ75 prices have rocketed way up in the last few years, and a P226 is still a great gun that's very desireable. A 911 is way overpriced compared to a Vette. Should people not consider Porsche 911's? JD's sell for what they do because people are willing to pay that much for them. People who aren't willing to pay extra want to then buy something else cheaper, and then try and convince the internet that it's not only cheaper, but better than JD. This is TBN 101. That's all they do on that site. JD is where they are because generally speaking they are excellent machines. That's not to say that other brands aren't competitive, or good alternatives to buy, but just saying "Kubota is better than JD," or "Kioti is better than JD" is a pretty empty statement. That's like me saying, "Chevy is better than Dodge." It's just an empty, baseless statement. Now you at least added substance when you said that the seat and 3PH is better on your Kioti so you're giving criteria to why you prefer your Kioti so I'll give you props. Here's my honest and personal opinion on JD. I think JD makes a very nice compact tractor, but IDK if I would buy one. First I don't really care anything about compact tractors. Some of the larger compact tractors ones are pretty nice for bushhogging or maybe doing a little boxblade work, etc, but I have no emotional attachment to a compact tractor so if I had to buy one the cheapest bobo brand would suit me fine. If one of those Rural King stores was around here then I'd look at one of them. But compact JD's are pricey, the R's IMO aren't really worth it and are kind of basic until you start getting to your 5R's and 6R's. For example even a 4R isn't that much nicer than a 5E with a cab. Other than fender mounted 3PH controls and one or two other little things a 5E has about all the amenities a 4R does for about the same price in a more powerful machine with a larger/beefier frame. I have a friend with a 3038E and for the extra cost of the 3039R it isn't worth it IMO. The R is a nicer machine, but in that size range the features and options just aren't there to justify that cost. Another reason I might steer away from a compact JD is that first and for most JD is a Ag company. I'm sure their main priority goes towards their larger Ag tractors and combines, but they're also a big name in the logging industry, and the construction industry, and they make skidders, backhoes, and bulldozers to compete with top competitors in those segments like Caterpillar. Still with that said the compact tractor market is a cash cow for Deere and they're going to invest noticeable resources into that market to compete with the other big players to make compact tractors. When I bought my 5075E I compared it to its main rival which is a Kubota M7060. Both tractors optioned the same as MFWD convertibles, with their FEL's, and 12x12 powershuttles the Kubota came out to be $200 less than the Deere. (M7060 was $36K, and 5075E was $36,200 in April 2018) There were things I liked better about the Kubota, but there were enough things I liked better about the Deere that it's what I went with. If it was a 17 I likely would of went Kubota, because an OSS 17 5E is far less comfortable than an OSS 18+ 5E, but JD recognized how much nicer a M60 was for the operator compared to the 5E and they revamped it to compete. When I first started looking for a new tractor I was pretty sure I was going to get a MF 2607H. The issue was MF's buy now price and financing price are 2 totally different things. The cheapest I could get a 2607H with a loader and MFWD for was over $36,700. The only real benefits this tractor had over the 5E is it comes standard with 2 rear remotes, and it 3PH is setup for both CAT1 and CAT2. I haven't yet needed an extra rear remote (even though I wish I had one) and the little adapter sleeves to make a CAT1 implement fit CAT2 work great and are easy to use. Still the MF had no 540E, no powershuttle, only 8 F/R gears, a dry clutch, a prominent transmission hump between your legs, no fender mount hand throttle (which is a really nice thing) no rubber floor mat, no tilt steering, its FEL and 3PH ratings were lacking compared to the Deere and Kubota. The thing was I really wanted to like the Massey. IMHO it's easily the best looking tractor in its segment, and it's engine pur and feel is reminiscent to a 90's Ford or MF which I like. Still its valve better reflects its higher price. When your missing all those features that the Deere and Kubota had, and then charging more $ for it I just couldn't pick the MF even though I really liked it. Still I think that Massey would of made a much better plow horse than it would an efficient loader tractor. So from my mindset my Deere offered a lot of value, and wasn't just trying to command big $ for the paint. This is often the case if you go talk to a dealer and don't just go off of some Tractor House listed price. Not always, but again you can often times find JD"s that are priced very competitively with less sought after brands. Often it has to do with the surplus of inventory the dealer has. One year tractor sales might be down and you can get are really good deal on a Deere, and the next year tractor sales are up, and if tractor sales are up then no other brand is going to be in as high a demand as JD so in that scenario you're going to pay a noticeable markup on one if you're buy a Deere.
The front end loader would have been the most versatile piece of equipment for that tractor. Hard to believe David would have decided against it. But a very informative video. Keep up the great work!
I have a 2016 1025R. Good Works Tractor (10 HIDDEN FEATURES ON YOUR TRACTOR), has a video with good tips. One tip is the Reverse Override. Just push the Rocker Switch futher to activate the override.
The salesman was very informative but he missed that there is grease fittings on the mower driveshaft. And the most important grease fitting is the transmission driveshaft. A bit of a pain to get at but very pricey if that u joint goes out of it.
That model (like mine) cuts in reverse, you hold down the yellow blade button on the top as you engage reverse. It cuts in reverse until you let up on the reverse pedal. Great tractor.
Great purchase, to use the PTO in reverse push and hold the PTO button on then start moving in reverse, then you can let go of the PTO switch. You have to do this every time you want to reverse.
I love my 1023e the best thing I did was connect the seat sensor wires together with a cheap wire connector. That way it don't shut off everything I get off the machine
4:45: $10,000 and another $3,000 for the mower deck just for the residential model? That's an absurdity. What residence are we speaking of? The Biltmore or The Breakers?
I am on my 3rd tractor now and finally got it right. First one was too old, second did not have enough power and third one 35 HP and FEL. Once you use a FEL you will never be without one again. Size of tractor depends on how much you are going to cut. Looks like you have a good bit. I still use my zero turn on front of my property as it has a MUCH better cut. People make fun of my tractor because it is blue and not orange or green. Still gets the job done
I have a Kubota BX2680. I can use all of the hydraulics simultaneously. Not sure what that salesman is talking about. AND…I can mow in reverse. No special buttons to push.
Exactly!! I have a BX1880 and it's the exact same for me. And I've actually heard the complete opposite about John Deeres. They're the ones that can't curl and raise at the same time.
@@jensalan I think I'm not understanding your comment. The previous guy seemed like he was saying JDs can't use all the hydraulics at the same time. You then said you "heard the opposite", then went on to say the same thing. Did I miss something? What was opposite?
@@wade7959 My wording could have been better. The OP only mentioned that the Kubota could use all of its hydraulics simultaneously. They didn't specifically mention the John deere couldn't. My comment is specifically saying that I've heard the John deere can't. (so opposite of what the salesman is saying)
FYI, you can mow in reverse, just need to hold down the PTO rocker switch while backing up. also need to mow at 2100 PTO RPM, when you engage the PTO, look at the digital display on the dash and it will tell you PTO RPM, increase throttle until it shows 2100 rpm. Get ballast in your rear tires ASAP. The beet juice is best.
You are going to love that tractor once you get the hang of it! I have the 1025r and I use it year around. When I bought mine, I didn't think I'd be using the loader much, but I use it all the time. One caveat is that the ride over motor isn't as easy as they make it look at the dealership. If the ground isn't perfectly level, it can be difficult to get it to lock in correctly.
I don't know what it is, but these things are addictive! Bought one a few months ago from the neighborhood hot rodder on a whim, looked cool (genuine vintage 80s model), needed a lot of work, and a month later after a transmission rebuild and a ton of tuning, I just picked up a '77 214 to do it all again. But they put a stupid smile on your face every time you jump on and bounce around. You'd think the wife would enjoy it, but she's not much for driving stick. 😁
I personally have a 1023E with the same mower deck but also have the loader and rear blade for pushing snow. I have done a ton of loader work. It’s worth it’s weight in gold. You will need it. If you hold the mower engage button forward you can then go in reverse with it going. Great purchase TFL team.
I just got a 1025r and I absolutely love it. I would suggest getting the tires filled. It really helps stability. I have hills I cut there about 18% goes right up them. Best purchase I ever made.
Back in the day, I spent a lot of hours driving a Kubota BX1800. It was a great tractor. I loved the heel and toe pedal. When mowing, we just set the caster wheels on the deck to the height we wanted and just allowed the deck to float over the ground. The twin hydraulic pump system on the JD is a good idea thought. The Kubota would have steering issues when steering and using hydraulics at the same time. You could feel the steering assistance disappear as you moved any of the other hydraulic levers. You could mow forward and backwards with the Kubota, as it was a pure mechanical tractor with no electronics on it.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^Best comment here. Got brand new box nice blade for first attachment. Learned right away that's a legitimate skill to use, that I don't have. I could dig a pond with a box blade before i could level my driveway. Got a 6 ft landshark land plane and it is awesome!! Takes no talent, just delivers. My box blade will probably never b hooked up again. Will have to rescue it with a chainsaw someday because 4 inch trees have land locked it..
Have been enjoying this series. The course needs a uphill section with dugouts in it. ( we would call them wombat holes in Australia) It would test comfort ,ground clearance and traction at the same time while trying to go up hill.
I just got the x739 for our small farm and it is a very capable and impressive machine. I'm continuously impressed with it. The reason I didn't go with a 1025R is because those larger "true tractors" are less nimble and difficult to mow with in tight spaces. If you're going to use it for mowing primarily, the x739 is a better choice IMO. Also, those mower guide wheels are supposed to be adjusted to 1/8" above the ground to prevent scalping;)
Great tractor. Mower grease spindles 10 hrs. Mid mower 3 grease point. Driveshaft has 3 lube points. One requires aligning the flywheel to access the zirc through a hole in the floor
Awesome seeing the different series and having you all go through them 👍 John Deere and Kubota are the heavy hitters for compact tractors. Both are great machines. Love em👌
I never thought I’d be excited to watch people buy a tractor and mow grass. But you guys are awesome. Keep up the great content. I love how this is coming along and David is an asset to this company!
This is every new tractor owner. I went with the kubota b2601. Got it delivered and it's way bigger than it looked at dealer, but I love it. Just worried about keeping it fueled along with my diesel pickup
I’m a John Deere man I farm with the best tractors they ever made the 4020 4240 and the king 4440 . But when it comes to mowing lots of grass around the farm and I do mean lots . Exmark mower’s are hand downs the best and fastest we run 2 of there biggest ones and have had them for years. 👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
Nice, hang on to those old dinosaurs and keep them fresh. Pre tier 3 tractors have mostly disappeared in my region due to their high operating hours, and lack of capability compared to newer tractors.
I also own a JD tractor, but use an Exmark zero turn. Oddly enough I worked for a competitive company to both brands for several years that makes probably more riding lawnmowers and zero turns than anywhere else on this planet. I'll point out one thing JD did that I thought was a really smart and worthwhile investment that I think JD should push more than they do when promoting their products. JD got away from fab decks. You might ask, "why is getting away from fab decks good, as fab decks are strong, beefy, durable decks that are intended for use on expensive industrial type mowers.?.?.?" The problem with fab decks is that they get welded on so much during assembly that it's impossible to keep them flat. A fab deck has a much bigger tolerance range that it can be out of flatness than a cheap/budget mower stamped deck does. This means that generally your cheaper, budget mower decks produce a smoother/flatter cut as they're not allowed to be 1/4" or 5/16 out of being flat when they leave the plant. It's much easier to hold a stamped deck to tighter tolerances than it is on fab deck. The negative is a stamped deck is generally using way thinner material than a fabbed deck and isn't going hold up to nearly the same punishment, abuse, wet grass, etc year after year the way a fab deck will. So to get the best of both what JD did was they invested in the tooling to be able to stamp an industrial mower deck out of the same gage material used in a fab deck so you get the strength of the fab deck with the flatter/nicer cut of the stamped deck. They did this several years back, and I'm not sure why their competitors haven't followed suit. I get that investing in the tooling (big, heavy presses, beefy dies, etc) to be able to stamp a large deck made of thick steel isn't cheap, but neither is constantly trying to R&D'ing ways to get a fab deck to stay flatter during its manufacturing. Anytime these large companies implement major changes they drop big $. It was nothing to hear the company I worked for dropping $15 million here to start up a new line, or 3 million there to implement this small change, etc. Anyways I thought that the industrial mower stamped deck was a smart idea on JD's part.
@@JROC734 Toatally agree on the stamped decks. Some of the larger JD decks are 7 gauge and 9 gauge steel, as thick or thicker than the steel of the fabricated decks I was comparing them to when shopping for a new mower. Decks rust out over time, that's usually what kills them, and fabricated / welded decks rust where the welded corners are because material builds up in those 90 degree corners where the welds are. Stamped decks are smoother, flow air better (better discharge), and do not have welds to catch material and start rusting. My engineering background makes me a stamped (thick steel) deck fan.
You should always get a free John Deere hat when you buy anything and you should have hewed them down on the package deal and got the 1025R with the deal, you will get better the next time. Have fun.
You can go in reverse, I’ve got a 1025R. To mow in reverse press the top of the yellow PTO button as you start to go backwards. It’s intended as a safety feature so you look behind you before mowing in reverse.
You can use the mower in reverse if you hold the rocker switch down when you go into reverse then you can release the rocker switch. You have to do it every time you want to reverse.
I have iMatch on both of my 3 series CUT's, but they only have that box blade (that will get used seldom if ever) so for them, it's probably not too necessary at this time.
Should have bought the R. The resale value will more than make up for capX difference. The extra productivity with the added features makes a difference.
I am amazed at how often I need every one of those 25HPs. They are at altitude; they are down from the 23 HP, maybe closer to 20, so, at some point, they are going to realize that they should have paid for the extra HP.
You've got to by-pass the reverse PTO cut off switch as I did to keep the mower engaged everytime you back up a few inches then move forward then repeat a hundred times. You'll learn quickly that you'll be over riding that switch very quickly. Oh, and the seat pressure sensor too!
The best purchase you can make for your ranch. I have a 33 hp tractor for my place in CO and you will use it for a lot more than you realize. I bought a used JD snow blower from the 80s and it's crazy to think that 4Rivers was still able to order parts for it.
On a ranch, you should’ve kept the beefier tires. Lawm tires are preferable on really nice lawns like a park or gold course, but on a ranch style mower/tractor, the beefier tires are much more useful, especially when wet and in snow.
Turf tires (knobbys) are actually better in snow than R4's. And are better on your lawn. Way better. R4 tires rip up lawns, and I don't care what anyone says about that. I own two 3 series JD's, one with turf tires (3025E) and one with R4's (3720) and I have to keep the 3720 with the R4's off the lawn in the summer (unfortunately, kind of sucks) because those tires will damage the lawn. I can drive the 3025E all over the lawn & never know it was there. Salesmen who say R4's aren't any harder on the lawn than turf tires are wrong. Now on Roman's new tractor they got those "inbetween" tires, they're relatively new (not sure what they're called, is it R3?) that are a cross between a turf tire and an R4, they look like they'd be easier on a lawn than R4's but still bite in the dirt. Turf tires are known to be better in snow than R4's though, most who have both agree with this. I have a blower on my 3025E with turf tires and it's excellent in snow.
That is an awesome machine guys. Congrats. The only thing I will say is the commercial ztr would blow the door's off the tractor as far as how long it will take to cut all that grass. Night and day difference. But with that you will be able to be more versatile for sure.
Get. A set of wheel weights and fill the rear tires. I makes it much more stable. Also, use the deck height adjustment knob to set your cutting height and then adjust the deck wheels so they are just off the ground.
Enjoyed this video. I have a 1025R that is a delight. Don't forget the unreachable Zerk on the drive shaft. I had to get a special grease-gun pencil tip to hit that. Hold the top of the PTO switch in with your thumb to mow in reverse. (Read the manual!)
Mowing is the great escape... especially when you have acreage to knock out... we just had 5 acres... started with a Troy-Bilt zero turn that lasted about 15 years and then upgraded to a Spartan HD zero-turn 60" cut... reduced my mow time by half and also was not as beat up afterward.
So coagulation is ONLY with liquids (most commonly blood). I was rather confused when he used that word when referring to debris accumulating on the mower deck.
Possibly a bit of bias here as I run a YT235 from Yanmar on 17 acres. Based on what you want to do it sounds like you went a bit undersize on the tractor. Particularly for tilling. If you are under 5 acres it may not be bad, but if you are over 5 I think the 35hp+ tractors are your sweet spot up to 20 acres or if you have hard work like disc harrowing, tilling, brush hogging or forestry work. If you are just going to mow and box blade then the above doesn’t matter. John Deere is great for high end tractors for most homesteaders we run Kubota or in some cases Yanmar. Good luck and enjoy the tractor.
As others have said, the R has a lot more than arm rests and 2hp. You also get: - auxiliary lights on the fenders (much better lighting for mowing etc, after dark) - rubber floor mats - active closed loop height control for the 3-point hitch - better seat - 12v power outlet (charging phones, etc) - dual cup holders - fender mounted toolbox - cruise control (useful when mowing large areas so you don't need to constantly hold the forward pedal at a constant depth) - tilt steering - and 25% more powerful PTO output for driving tillers, rear grass mowers, offset flail mowers, and other implements The 1025R is well worth the extra in my opinion (after much research we bought a 1025R for our property). Another thing that is HIGHLY recommended is to buy a front end loader at the same time because it is much more expensive to add later and is extremely, extremely useful. In our case we also decided to get a backhoe attachment (if you need one, again buy it with the tractor because there are major frame as well as hydraulic add-ons required). We have already used the backhoe to replace 2 large culverts, to dig out 30 large stumps (I did upgrade the bucket curl hydraulic cylinder, which makes ripping stump roots much easier), to repair our septic system, and to dredge our creek. Another extremely useful addition is a grapple, which attaches to the bucket's quick connect and requires a 3rd function hydraulic add on (search for Summit Hydraulic kits). Again well worth the money IMO (we got a 8-port rear hydraulic kit to also control our offset flail mower, hydraulic top link and other accessories). In two years we've put almost 300 hours on our 1025R and it has been incredibly useful.
We own the JD 2305 since 2005 which came before the 1025. The belly mower should NOT always be running on the small black wheels. If you do, those wheels will wear out quickly and they are about $60 each. Read the manual.
Manual tells you to set the gauge wheels so they're off the ground 1/4" or so, so they're not always under load, but engage quickly with the ground in uneven conditions to keep the cut even and totally prevent scalping. Does an excellent job that way, especially if you have a big deck. Need to keep those wheels greased, and yes, they do wear out but a quick trip to Ebay and you'll have new ones at your doorstep for under $60. These are wear items, need to be replaced every now & then. On a $15,000 rig, these gauge wheels cost peanuts and do so much for cut quailty. That's why the manual says what it says. But no, the deck shouldn't be running on the gauge wheels constantly.
To mow backwards, you need to either hold the PTO yellow button that you use to turn on the deck, or you have to click it once. I haven't used this specific tractor, but the one I have is a click for backwards.
Interesting vid👍I don’t mind JD tractor just make sure get tractor service done just any other brand of tractors, having grease gun, spare parts like filters n air compressor will make looking after tractor easier. Maybe portable fuel tank like 200lt or 400lt to fill up? Don’t forget to shed tractor n equipment to keep it in better condition👍
If using the tractor for large areas, and other uses a three point mower makes more sense. Deere also has its own mount for attachments to the loader instead of skid steer mount that most others use so Deere attachments cost more.
I bought the 1025R two years ago..I love it! Yes it's expensive but you get what you pay for..I am 65 don't drink or smoke or gamble..so I pay extra on no interest loan will pay off in 50 months instead of 84....
Yes, you can back up with the mower deck running. You push the pto button before you hit the reverse peddle. Once your moving you can let go of the button. It’s a safety feature someone came up with that’s really annoying… lol
To mow in reverse, just hold the rocker switch in until you start backing up, then you can let the switch go. Once your reverse motion stops, you will have push the switch again.
That salesman really knew his stuff, he was good on camera 👏
should have done a better job explaining the differences between the 1023E and 1025R specifically the 3 point differences. position control vs pilot control.
Agreed, on Camera Sales is a hard game to play and many Pro Brand Ambassadors fail.
Well he called the industrial tires ag tires
@@reaperhunter7297 you are correct he called them R4 AG tires. I did not catch that the first time. I noticed they requested turf tires (R3) but got the better R14 hybrid tires.
He didn't mention about the grease inserts on the pto shaft and it has dual diesel filters. I use one daily so I've learned a lot about them
Congratulations on the new 1023e! You guys will love it. I recommend you go back and get Ed to add the Front End Loader!
^^^ Tim has sold more 1025R tractors than anyone on the planet. ^^^
He will learn Tim!
Shocked the sales guy didn’t push 1025r the added features are definitely worth it better deal with loader and mowing deck or even a back hoe. They bought the box blade but forgot what the sales guy said about the 3 point height lock and altitude issue! Does the 1023 take the 72 inch mowing deck? not busting on the 1023e it’s just very entry level and the 1025r is way better at snow.
I like a salesman that knows his stuff and doesnt play games with the numbers. Good on that guy.
Just came to say the same thing. Good to hear a sales guy with confidence in the product he is selling. Always liked John Deere as well and learned some good things about their smaller tractors. Nice job TFL! I can't imagine your bills at this point. Wow!
From a business perspective it would be incredibly stupid of the salesman to play around with numbers on a UA-cam video advertising his business.
I'm agree with you, this days salesmen and specially saleswomen know more about credit and loans than simple mechanic stuff and features
I own a 1025R, and it's the best little tool I've ever owned, and it's just a great little tractor. But it can be tippy, so I would highly recommend getting a beet juice ballast in your rear tires ASAP. And buy the front-end loader; you will use it more than ever imagined.
As a long time subscriber and a big tractor guy, go back and buy the loader! Worth its weight in gold and resale value. 95% of people buying these tractors are homeowners who want a loader. You’ll thank yourself later. If JD changes the loaders 5 years from now you’ll never be able to find one then.
It baffles me that the salesman didn't recommend a loader...
Nobody thinks they need one, until they use it
They need the loader
Yah whole point of the 10 series is the loader.
A backhoe but no loader - you would think there would be an error code in JD’s sales system to prevent selling it like that without two keys turned at the same time and a notarized waiver.
Definitely some hasty decision making for such a big purchase
A compact or sub compact should always have a loader. Except if you are planning on using the tractor only for lawn mowing. But if it's the case, a zero turn would probably be a better choice. So my point is like the other just said, buy the loader.
I have a 2005 John Deere 2210 with the 23 HP Yanmar Diesel. It's been basically maintenance free other than oil and filter/grease jobs. R4 tires I think are better. I mostly cut grass with a 62" deck but I have the front loader and box scraper for maintaining my gravel drive. I've only replaced the batter 2 times and that's it! The two pedals sold me rather than a crappy rocker pedal for reverse. Your Achilles tendon will thank you! Go Green!
Always throttle down before turning off the engine, also if your using it, alway idle the engine for 30 seconds for cooling it down before shut off.
I have a Kubota with the engine blown because the operator kept it on full throttle all the time.
TFL would be totally lost without David. He has been a great asset
Agreed. He’s providing a great touch to this channel.
Wealth of knowledge
I disagree . They would be just fine without him. Not hating , he’s great . However tfl has been around for years without him.
And he's a super likeable guy on top of it...
@@advancedscarecrow I don't think they're talking about the entire Channel, I think they're talking about this new particular direction they've been going in.
I bought a X758. It has the same engine that is in the 1025E. It is a AWESOME for year round work. It plows through deep wet snow and keeps on pushing . It makes you look forward to lawn cutting or blizzards because it is FUN! Very well built and a pleasure to drive.
Yes, X758 is a much better lawn mower than a 1023E. Doesn't have all the capabilities of a 1023E though. Get a loader!
You’re going to LOVE that tractor… although, the 1025 has a better seat (not just armrests). The dealer should have set up each implement for you, including setting the mower deck level with anti-scalp wheels. You CAN MOW IN REVERSE! They should have told you how! Hold the PTO button when you push reverse pedal each time. I know I’m helping you spend money, but get the LED auxiliary light kit and a iMatch 3 point hitch adapter. Normally, the mower deck is set to level with no implements on the tractor (i.e. loader frame).
Or you can disable it to mow backwards. JD forums, you will find all kinds of tricks.
I have a 1023e and Chuck you are entirely right that the dealer should have set up each implement. Talking about mowing in reverse, you are also right you just pull up on the mower know each time before pressing the petal for reverse. Another thing is you HAVE to release each of the guide wheels before removing the mower so it will lay completely against the grown when backing over the mower in the removal process. I don't have the turf tires and my tires don't tear up the yard but I really like those turf tires and they should be great in dry dirt. If you didn't get the loader call the dealer back "immediately" and get it. That is what is greatest about a compact tractor. I use mine on a weekly if not daily basis. Everything from moving dirt to lumber to bags of material. I have moved couches, rock, snow, etc. I could go on an on. Either way I think you will find you made a great choice in your tractor. Just keep it close when taking those trucks through the mud and keep it up on dry dirt!!!
@@vicbrown7637 Completely agree about the loader. The same is probably true about John Deeres, but I know with the Kubota BXs, the loader really helps resale value. My BX1880 with loader and 54" mower was about $15k new. On the used market, the same spec'd tractor, even 10-15 years old, goes for about $10k.
43 years ago I looked at a Deere, bought a Kubota. Still mowing grass and moving snow with it today..
I've had a compact (orange) tractor for years and I LOVE IT!! I'm not partial to a specific brand. Most well known brands are excellent. That front bucket will be your most used attachment. A lot easier to move material and lift things especially as i get older (same age as Roman). Mine paid of itself in the first few years I owned..Good maintenance and these things will literally last forever.
Yeah, the bucket will be crucial. Add a tooth bar if you’re really wanting to break up tough dirt. Also I’ve used pallet forks a ton! More than I ever thought.
Just don’t do loader work or anything other than mowing with the mower attached. Mower will likely sustain damage.
Also, not having a loader reduces resale considerably.
David’s gonna make a rancher out of you, yet, Roman!😆 Never underestimate an old man & his tractor.👍
I found the information on fuel usage eye opening. I have an older Kubota tractor and it will mow 8 hours at full throttle and heavy load on less than 4 gallons of diesel. With diesel prices today fuel consumption on a lawn mower would be a big deal. I mow about 3.5 acres twice a week. After mowing with my John Deere tractor for the first year I bought a zero turn. It cut my mowing time down from about 4 hours to 1 hour. I still have the other tractors and mowers but I never mow with anything but the zero turn.
My dad and I have a 1025r it's older 2015 but so many protects we have done with it such a little tractor 🚜 to get big things done
Hey guys make sure that the in line fuel filter is a diesel filter and not a paper gas one. My neighbor buys a new 1025R every couple years and he was having fuel issues. Come to find out it had a paper gas in line fuel filter and when he went to back to the JD dealership that was what they had listed for the tractor. We put an actual diesel filter on it and haven't had a problem yet.
There are two fuel filters. The paper filter is easy to change and is guaranteed to plug at some point every year. There is a better and second filter under the tractor that will not need changing as often but is much harder to change.
You can mow in reverse, just hold down the yellow pto switch BEFORE going into reverse. Easy peasy. I have the 1025R with loader/mower deck/and a reverse rotation roto tiller. I also recommend getting a cat 1 quick hitch for the 3 point system. Much easier to attach to other 3 point implements, and it extends out the reach by 4 1/2 inchs which means you won't have to trim the pto shafts should you get any rear cat 1 pto driven implements.
I enjoyed this way more than I thought I would. More tractors, please!
If you hold up (or down, depending on the switch style) on the mower engagement switch while reversjng, you can prevent the blades from automatically stopping.
That's an annoying feature that it disengages the mower when going in reverse. My BX1880 let's me mow in reverse without any grief.
@@jensalan you can bypass it with a simple zip tie so it's not that big of a deal lol
Tell Roman to search for Tractor Time with Tim on UA-cam for tons of how to with this and the 1025R tractor. You should have bought the 1025R, but as long as you are happy, all that matters.
Can we all chip in and buy Roman some work boots? Those snazzy Tennys are for office yuppies.
I've had my 1025r going on 5 years now. Fantastic sub-compact. You will be buying all sorts of attachments as the years go by. There are several videos on YT on how you can defeat the "not being able to mow in reverse" mode. It's a real simple process. On my tractor it's a microswitch. On my property where I mow, it's real handy to mow in reverse in certain spots. There is also an adapter kit you can install on your mower deck that you can use your front end loader to attach to the mower deck and raise it vertically to access the blades and for clean out. Umpteen attachments. I bought the 48" forks and for me, that is also handy. Just remember weight and balance. Solid axles mean easy tip over. When using your front end loader, make sure your ballasted correctly on the rear of the tractor. It takes a lot of the weight pressure off of the front axles which means a lot less wear. Good luck and enjoy. Lots to learn.
Yes, being able to back up with the deck engaged is critical, disable that stupid thing immediately! If it DID add ANYTHING to functionally improve the safety of the machine I would be totatlly against disabling it. But how do you reason that pushing that button does anything whatsoever to prevent you from backing over a child or pet or something? Makes no sense whatsoever. Having the distraction of having to push the button probably makes the machine MORE dangerous, not less! Common sense dictates this. Disable that button, other mfg. mowers do not have it because it's just stupid. One of the idiosyncracies of John Deere for sure. All 3 of my JD mowers have this disabled. And I am very safety conscious, a lawn mower can do serious damage if not used carefully.
I’m loving this new series. It’s a great change of pace from the traditional car and truck reviews.
^^
I love the taming tumbleweed series. I hope you guys keep this going! Look forward to it every Sunday. Yall have some awesome toys and the tractor is another great addition! Looks like fun. Great job yall!
Just got a bx1880, gotta say I’ve used the loader lift and dump while steering with no issues.
Agreed. He's just a salesman.
Kubota has one pump that shares output (power) between all tasks. JD has separate pumps, meaning that there's dedicated power to each task. Or at least that's how I recall it.
@@spam22 that small it's one pump, the diverter is physically smaller on the steering side though. Larger ones have multiple pumps but you don't get that on tiny ones like that. There are mods out there to open up that flow and buy bigger pumps but like anything in life when you mod it it's better lol
After a long day at work, getting on the mower is true therapy!!!
John Deere salesman knew his stuff......Great video
I wasn't impressed and I've bought a lot of John Deere equipment over the years. He didn't even find the time to tell them about the ROI reverse cutout feature? Or setting the gauge wheels on the deck to around 1/4" above the ground when at the desired cutting height? Or tell them the steering wheel in in an awkward position on the non tilt wheel machines? Or explain that seat has more comfort features (suspension!) than just the armrests? That suspension seat is a bigger deal than the armrests, doesn't jar your back as bad on bumps which gets to be more of a thing as we get older. He should have emphasized those two work lights on the fenders are extremely helpful after dark, the front lights are not that great by themselves (tractor isn't really useable at night). He blew it off like the extra features were no big deal, but they actually are. He was somewhat knowledgable though. Just missed some important points. Also should have emphasized that the X700 series have a better turning radius, a lower center of gravity (more stable on hills) but don't have a ROPS roll bar, and many other differences he didn't mention. Better resale as well. Roman seemed focused on the 1023E though, so he focused on and talked that one up 'cuase it seemed it was what the customer wanted. For a city dude who's out having fun, the extra comfort of a 1025R would seem to be a better choice.
There should be a RIO rocker switch on the dash. Press and hold this before reversing to mow backwards
You don't have to on these.
I will say, when I bought mine it came with the belly mower with the whole drive over quick connect. It's junk, it constantly needs to be adjusted, things will bend or whatever. Granted, I'm not easy on my stuff, I use it. Maybe I was a bit rough on it.
I ended up selling the 60" belly mower and bought an old land pride 72" finish mower and have never looked back.
Just purchased a 1025R back in March. They are phenomenal pieces of equipment and definitely punch above their weight class, for sure. Good luck with it!
$2,400 got you a much nicer seat, arm rests, 2 extra HP, and the hitch height stop. I think you're going to regret not getting the R version in the long run.
And the lights. I bought an R. All the armrests really get used for is to hold a set of ear muffs. I wonder if the 2hp is just marketing, meaning are there REALLY engine differences between the 1023E and 1025R. The hitch stop that the salesperson said was such a great feature is just a $3 piece of metal and plastic and you could literally take a bolt, wing nut and two washers and replicate it yourself. I'm still glad I got the R though, as it's just nicer overall, has cruise control, all the things, and is going to be a lot easier to sell. And I'd always be wondering about those extra 2hp because I do use all the power it's able to put out.
@@spam22 The rocker arm for the 1023E springs back to the middle position. You push it forward and it will lower the mower deck and 3 point arms but when you stop pushing foward it springs back to the middle. Same thing happens when you pull it back to raise.
@@YMF1891 Oh that makes a lot more sense. Thanks for explaining that.
@@YMF1891 Yeah he did a poor job of explaining the rocker shaft lever vs the simple hydraulic up/down lever. That's a big deal if they actually plan to use that box blade, you absolutely want the position sensitive rocker shaft adjustment lever of the 1025R for that application.
We switched to Kubota. Better price and tractor. Love your videos!
Can’t go wrong with a Kubota!
Why is it better? Do you think maybe it's better because you're wanting to feel your brand switch and purchase is justified as a good move which would just be an emotional response? Let me give you a few examples of me high signing things I own against some of their competitors is a similar fashion to what you're doing:
-Glocks are better than HK's.
-CZ's are better than SIG's.
-F150 is better than Ram 1500, GM twins 1500's, and Tundra.
-6.7L PSD is better than Cummins, or Duramax.
-GEN2 Lightnings are better than Ram SRT10's.
-03/04 Cobras are better than C5 Z06's.
-LS1 powered GEN4 Fbodys are better than N/A, 4V Mustangs built on the SN95 platform.
-GEN6 Camaro SS 1LE's are better than GEN6 Mustang MACH1's.
-JD 5E Series is better than Kubota M60 Series.
Do you think those blatant statements with 0 context could be seen as offensive to people who've bought products that are competitive to what I own?
The problem with you people (and when I say "you people" I mean you people who try and exclusively buy products made by Japanese owned businesses) is you think your chit don't stink and you snub your noses as everyone else who doesn't buy Japanese. A 4Runner owner will say, "that Explorer is a POS." A Camry owner will say, "that Taurus is a POS." A Tacoma owner will say "that Colorado is a POS." A Tundra owner will say "that Ram is a POS." Kubota owners get offended by JD's status and they like to pretend that Deere makes an inferior, chitty product based on no real criteria other than stereotypes and narratives that Japanese products are more reliable and of higher quality than everyone elses stuff, which I often times find to not even be true and I can give examples.
Often time the American's who prefers to buy Japanese products (I'm talking Japanese owned businesses, and not necessarily made in Japan) come across like the smug, hybrid driving, San Francisco people on that South Park episode who just want to sniff their own farts and think they're better than everyone else. Are there arrogant, douche JD fanboys. Absolutely. I personally grew up bias toward Ford and Allis-Chalmers. Still if I see a video of someone showing off their Kubota tractor, I don't see a bunch of JD fans commenting on how you should of gone Deere instead unless the video is talking down on JD products. If you have a video of someone showing off a JD with under 100 HP then often the comments are going to start filling up with people trying to push Kubota. Kind of like the OP's comment.
Why I get on people who buy Japanese, while at the same time looking down on American and European products is because every time that a Japanese owned company wants to develop for our market, and enter into an area that's traditionally dominated by American businesses, who've developed a product or niche that caters to an American audience (trucks, tractors, guns, etc) is because these people act like the new Japanese product is automatically the best because Japan is better than Merika. While at the same time, and luckily for them our free market allows these foreign companies to sell and compete with our locally owned businesses, but unfortunately for our businesses their economy generally doesn't reciprocate this same free trade. They do a little bit, because they have to, but not nearly on the same scale as we do for them. BTW They're more than happy to buy land on U.S. soil and build a plant to produce a product, and then say, "look at the jobs we're providing for y'all so buy our American made, Japanese products." Funny how Americans aren't allowed to buy land in Japan though.?.? Growing up a Air Force Brat in Okinawa, Japan for a few years in the 80's do you think people were just riding around in their Fords, Chevy's and Plymounths? Nope. They weren't going to let that happen. You were stuck buying Japanese over there. Do you think Tokyo is just full of Tacoma's, Tundras and Browning X-Bolts?
I'll give the Japanese one thing. They tend to be a very patriotic people which people should be. They're going to buy a lot more PlayStations than XBOX's. If they do sell any given model of foreign vehicles over there, they're not going to sell well from my understanding partly due to patriotism, and partly due to they tax the crap out of imported cars.
Look if you like your Kubota/Kubotas then good. You invested your $ into it then I hope you do like it. Still making baseless claims that Kubota is better than Deere because it's what you decided to buy and you're secretly offended that they used a Deere dealership instead of a Kubota dealer to demonstrate tractor shopping is a Dbag move. If they made a video showing the modern truck buying process, and used a Toyota dealership to shoot the video, and I commented, "I bought a F150 because it's a better valve and better truck" all I'm going to do is look like a douchebag and fire up a bunch of Tundra owners. The fact that they used a JD dealership to make this video shouldn't have offended you to the point of making it about this brand vs that brand. Still thanks for making the comment as I often enjoy writing essays on the UA-cams.
I switched to Kioti CX2510 because it's a better tractor also.
@@JROC7341. John deere tractors are over priced as compared to the competition.
2. The seat in my Kioti is much better than the back busting seat on the 1025R I owned.
3. The Kioti CX2510 is more capable than the 1025R.
4. The drive over mowing deck is a joke.
5. The 3 point hitch is a joke.
6. No real drawbar on the 1025R.
7. John Deere quick hitch isn't compatible with any other brand.
Are you wanting to stunt or talk like men? I do not care that you chose another brand over Deere. I just question peoples motives who like to dog out JD's compared to their more budget minded machines. There are plenty of things that are overpriced compared to other things, but people will spend for them because they're desirable. I find my FN509 to be as good as my Glocks, but I got it for $170 less than a new G45, but I still plan to pick up a G45 at some point because I like them, and think it's an ideal 9MM. (I might splurge and pick up one of those Shadow Systems XR920's instead of a G45 as them mofo's are nice) A SIG P226 is way overpriced compared to what a CZ SP01 had traditionally sold for. With that said CZ75 prices have rocketed way up in the last few years, and a P226 is still a great gun that's very desireable. A 911 is way overpriced compared to a Vette. Should people not consider Porsche 911's?
JD's sell for what they do because people are willing to pay that much for them. People who aren't willing to pay extra want to then buy something else cheaper, and then try and convince the internet that it's not only cheaper, but better than JD. This is TBN 101. That's all they do on that site. JD is where they are because generally speaking they are excellent machines. That's not to say that other brands aren't competitive, or good alternatives to buy, but just saying "Kubota is better than JD," or "Kioti is better than JD" is a pretty empty statement. That's like me saying, "Chevy is better than Dodge." It's just an empty, baseless statement. Now you at least added substance when you said that the seat and 3PH is better on your Kioti so you're giving criteria to why you prefer your Kioti so I'll give you props.
Here's my honest and personal opinion on JD. I think JD makes a very nice compact tractor, but IDK if I would buy one. First I don't really care anything about compact tractors. Some of the larger compact tractors ones are pretty nice for bushhogging or maybe doing a little boxblade work, etc, but I have no emotional attachment to a compact tractor so if I had to buy one the cheapest bobo brand would suit me fine. If one of those Rural King stores was around here then I'd look at one of them. But compact JD's are pricey, the R's IMO aren't really worth it and are kind of basic until you start getting to your 5R's and 6R's. For example even a 4R isn't that much nicer than a 5E with a cab. Other than fender mounted 3PH controls and one or two other little things a 5E has about all the amenities a 4R does for about the same price in a more powerful machine with a larger/beefier frame. I have a friend with a 3038E and for the extra cost of the 3039R it isn't worth it IMO. The R is a nicer machine, but in that size range the features and options just aren't there to justify that cost. Another reason I might steer away from a compact JD is that first and for most JD is a Ag company. I'm sure their main priority goes towards their larger Ag tractors and combines, but they're also a big name in the logging industry, and the construction industry, and they make skidders, backhoes, and bulldozers to compete with top competitors in those segments like Caterpillar. Still with that said the compact tractor market is a cash cow for Deere and they're going to invest noticeable resources into that market to compete with the other big players to make compact tractors.
When I bought my 5075E I compared it to its main rival which is a Kubota M7060. Both tractors optioned the same as MFWD convertibles, with their FEL's, and 12x12 powershuttles the Kubota came out to be $200 less than the Deere. (M7060 was $36K, and 5075E was $36,200 in April 2018) There were things I liked better about the Kubota, but there were enough things I liked better about the Deere that it's what I went with. If it was a 17 I likely would of went Kubota, because an OSS 17 5E is far less comfortable than an OSS 18+ 5E, but JD recognized how much nicer a M60 was for the operator compared to the 5E and they revamped it to compete. When I first started looking for a new tractor I was pretty sure I was going to get a MF 2607H. The issue was MF's buy now price and financing price are 2 totally different things. The cheapest I could get a 2607H with a loader and MFWD for was over $36,700. The only real benefits this tractor had over the 5E is it comes standard with 2 rear remotes, and it 3PH is setup for both CAT1 and CAT2. I haven't yet needed an extra rear remote (even though I wish I had one) and the little adapter sleeves to make a CAT1 implement fit CAT2 work great and are easy to use. Still the MF had no 540E, no powershuttle, only 8 F/R gears, a dry clutch, a prominent transmission hump between your legs, no fender mount hand throttle (which is a really nice thing) no rubber floor mat, no tilt steering, its FEL and 3PH ratings were lacking compared to the Deere and Kubota. The thing was I really wanted to like the Massey. IMHO it's easily the best looking tractor in its segment, and it's engine pur and feel is reminiscent to a 90's Ford or MF which I like. Still its valve better reflects its higher price. When your missing all those features that the Deere and Kubota had, and then charging more $ for it I just couldn't pick the MF even though I really liked it. Still I think that Massey would of made a much better plow horse than it would an efficient loader tractor. So from my mindset my Deere offered a lot of value, and wasn't just trying to command big $ for the paint. This is often the case if you go talk to a dealer and don't just go off of some Tractor House listed price. Not always, but again you can often times find JD"s that are priced very competitively with less sought after brands. Often it has to do with the surplus of inventory the dealer has. One year tractor sales might be down and you can get are really good deal on a Deere, and the next year tractor sales are up, and if tractor sales are up then no other brand is going to be in as high a demand as JD so in that scenario you're going to pay a noticeable markup on one if you're buy a Deere.
Bought a 1025R three months ago. You have no idea how much you would use a front-end loader. It's a beast with the right attachments.
The front end loader would have been the most versatile piece of equipment for that tractor. Hard to believe David would have decided against it. But a very informative video. Keep up the great work!
Glad to see that David got a hat with Roman’s purchase. He is a smart man picking green!
I have a 2016 1025R. Good Works Tractor (10 HIDDEN FEATURES ON YOUR TRACTOR), has a video with good tips. One tip is the Reverse Override. Just push the Rocker Switch futher to activate the override.
The salesman was very informative but he missed that there is grease fittings on the mower driveshaft. And the most important grease fitting is the transmission driveshaft. A bit of a pain to get at but very pricey if that u joint goes out of it.
That model (like mine) cuts in reverse, you hold down the yellow blade button on the top as you engage reverse. It cuts in reverse until you let up on the reverse pedal. Great tractor.
Getting a couple ground anchors and then putting a ratchet strap over the top of the beehive is a solid way to keep critters out.
I bought a new John Deere x748 lawnmower years ago, been nothing but pleasure to own ,so simple and easy to work on
Cool lawn tractor. Dave is such a great addition to the team!
Great purchase, to use the PTO in reverse push and hold the PTO button on then start moving in reverse, then you can let go of the PTO switch. You have to do this every time you want to reverse.
I love my 1023e the best thing I did was connect the seat sensor wires together with a cheap wire connector. That way it don't shut off everything I get off the machine
Thanks. I’ll look into that, hate that feature. It’s too sensitive.
4:45: $10,000 and another $3,000 for the mower deck just for the residential model? That's an absurdity. What residence are we speaking of? The Biltmore or The Breakers?
I am on my 3rd tractor now and finally got it right. First one was too old, second did not have enough power and third one 35 HP and FEL. Once you use a FEL you will never be without one again. Size of tractor depends on how much you are going to cut. Looks like you have a good bit. I still use my zero turn on front of my property as it has a MUCH better cut. People make fun of my tractor because it is blue and not orange or green. Still gets the job done
The same yellow switch that activates the mower can be used to disable the reverse safety shutoff. read the manual.
I have a Kubota BX2680. I can use all of the hydraulics simultaneously. Not sure what that salesman is talking about. AND…I can mow in reverse. No special buttons to push.
Exactly!! I have a BX1880 and it's the exact same for me.
And I've actually heard the complete opposite about John Deeres. They're the ones that can't curl and raise at the same time.
@@jensalan I think I'm not understanding your comment. The previous guy seemed like he was saying JDs can't use all the hydraulics at the same time. You then said you "heard the opposite", then went on to say the same thing. Did I miss something? What was opposite?
@@wade7959 My wording could have been better. The OP only mentioned that the Kubota could use all of its hydraulics simultaneously. They didn't specifically mention the John deere couldn't.
My comment is specifically saying that I've heard the John deere can't. (so opposite of what the salesman is saying)
FYI, you can mow in reverse, just need to hold down the PTO rocker switch while backing up. also need to mow at 2100 PTO RPM, when you engage the PTO, look at the digital display on the dash and it will tell you PTO RPM, increase throttle until it shows 2100 rpm. Get ballast in your rear tires ASAP. The beet juice is best.
You are going to love that tractor once you get the hang of it! I have the 1025r and I use it year around. When I bought mine, I didn't think I'd be using the loader much, but I use it all the time. One caveat is that the ride over motor isn't as easy as they make it look at the dealership. If the ground isn't perfectly level, it can be difficult to get it to lock in correctly.
I don't know what it is, but these things are addictive! Bought one a few months ago from the neighborhood hot rodder on a whim, looked cool (genuine vintage 80s model), needed a lot of work, and a month later after a transmission rebuild and a ton of tuning, I just picked up a '77 214 to do it all again.
But they put a stupid smile on your face every time you jump on and bounce around. You'd think the wife would enjoy it, but she's not much for driving stick. 😁
I personally have a 1023E with the same mower deck but also have the loader and rear blade for pushing snow. I have done a ton of loader work. It’s worth it’s weight in gold. You will need it. If you hold the mower engage button forward you can then go in reverse with it going. Great purchase TFL team.
I just got a 1025r and I absolutely love it. I would suggest getting the tires filled. It really helps stability. I have hills I cut there about 18% goes right up them. Best purchase I ever made.
Damn, David knows everything.
Back in the day, I spent a lot of hours driving a Kubota BX1800. It was a great tractor. I loved the heel and toe pedal. When mowing, we just set the caster wheels on the deck to the height we wanted and just allowed the deck to float over the ground. The twin hydraulic pump system on the JD is a good idea thought. The Kubota would have steering issues when steering and using hydraulics at the same time. You could feel the steering assistance disappear as you moved any of the other hydraulic levers. You could mow forward and backwards with the Kubota, as it was a pure mechanical tractor with no electronics on it.
Take the box blade back and swap it for a land plane because it will be much easier to use and it does much better job at leveling gravel.
I agree
^^^^^^^^^^^^^Best comment here. Got brand new box nice blade for first attachment. Learned right away that's a legitimate skill to use, that I don't have. I could dig a pond with a box blade before i could level my driveway. Got a 6 ft landshark land plane and it is awesome!! Takes no talent, just delivers. My box blade will probably never b hooked up again. Will have to rescue it with a chainsaw someday because 4 inch trees have land locked it..
Have been enjoying this series. The course needs a uphill section with dugouts in it. ( we would call them wombat holes in Australia) It would test comfort ,ground clearance and traction at the same time while trying to go up hill.
It is funny you thought that grass needed mowed. I guess it is a Denver cold thing. LOL
I just got the x739 for our small farm and it is a very capable and impressive machine. I'm continuously impressed with it. The reason I didn't go with a 1025R is because those larger "true tractors" are less nimble and difficult to mow with in tight spaces. If you're going to use it for mowing primarily, the x739 is a better choice IMO. Also, those mower guide wheels are supposed to be adjusted to 1/8" above the ground to prevent scalping;)
Absolutely, all 100% accurate points. X7 series all the way if you're just mowing.
Great tractor. Mower grease spindles 10 hrs. Mid mower 3 grease point. Driveshaft has 3 lube points. One requires aligning the flywheel to access the zirc through a hole in the floor
Awesome seeing the different series and having you all go through them 👍 John Deere and Kubota are the heavy hitters for compact tractors. Both are great machines. Love em👌
I never thought I’d be excited to watch people buy a tractor and mow grass. But you guys are awesome. Keep up the great content. I love how this is coming along and David is an asset to this company!
This is every new tractor owner. I went with the kubota b2601. Got it delivered and it's way bigger than it looked at dealer, but I love it. Just worried about keeping it fueled along with my diesel pickup
I’m a John Deere man I farm with the best tractors they ever made the 4020 4240 and the king 4440 . But when it comes to mowing lots of grass around the farm and I do mean lots . Exmark mower’s are hand downs the best and fastest we run 2 of there biggest ones and have had them for years. 👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
Nice, hang on to those old dinosaurs and keep them fresh. Pre tier 3 tractors have mostly disappeared in my region due to their high operating hours, and lack of capability compared to newer tractors.
I also own a JD tractor, but use an Exmark zero turn. Oddly enough I worked for a competitive company to both brands for several years that makes probably more riding lawnmowers and zero turns than anywhere else on this planet.
I'll point out one thing JD did that I thought was a really smart and worthwhile investment that I think JD should push more than they do when promoting their products. JD got away from fab decks. You might ask, "why is getting away from fab decks good, as fab decks are strong, beefy, durable decks that are intended for use on expensive industrial type mowers.?.?.?" The problem with fab decks is that they get welded on so much during assembly that it's impossible to keep them flat. A fab deck has a much bigger tolerance range that it can be out of flatness than a cheap/budget mower stamped deck does. This means that generally your cheaper, budget mower decks produce a smoother/flatter cut as they're not allowed to be 1/4" or 5/16 out of being flat when they leave the plant. It's much easier to hold a stamped deck to tighter tolerances than it is on fab deck. The negative is a stamped deck is generally using way thinner material than a fabbed deck and isn't going hold up to nearly the same punishment, abuse, wet grass, etc year after year the way a fab deck will. So to get the best of both what JD did was they invested in the tooling to be able to stamp an industrial mower deck out of the same gage material used in a fab deck so you get the strength of the fab deck with the flatter/nicer cut of the stamped deck. They did this several years back, and I'm not sure why their competitors haven't followed suit. I get that investing in the tooling (big, heavy presses, beefy dies, etc) to be able to stamp a large deck made of thick steel isn't cheap, but neither is constantly trying to R&D'ing ways to get a fab deck to stay flatter during its manufacturing. Anytime these large companies implement major changes they drop big $. It was nothing to hear the company I worked for dropping $15 million here to start up a new line, or 3 million there to implement this small change, etc.
Anyways I thought that the industrial mower stamped deck was a smart idea on JD's part.
@@JROC734 Toatally agree on the stamped decks. Some of the larger JD decks are 7 gauge and 9 gauge steel, as thick or thicker than the steel of the fabricated decks I was comparing them to when shopping for a new mower. Decks rust out over time, that's usually what kills them, and fabricated / welded decks rust where the welded corners are because material builds up in those 90 degree corners where the welds are. Stamped decks are smoother, flow air better (better discharge), and do not have welds to catch material and start rusting. My engineering background makes me a stamped (thick steel) deck fan.
A professional sales consultant that knows his products and the competition!
Leaf Blower is your friend when cleaning up your mower after working it!
Yup! Goes from a mess to looking like new in about 30 seconds, we blow ours off with a leaf blower after every use.
Great Great interview commentary on compact tractors. TFL ROCKS. Very interesting.
You should always get a free John Deere hat when you buy anything and you should have hewed them down on the package deal and got the 1025R with the deal, you will get better the next time. Have fun.
You can go in reverse, I’ve got a 1025R. To mow in reverse press the top of the yellow PTO button as you start to go backwards. It’s intended as a safety feature so you look behind you before mowing in reverse.
This episode was more fun to watch than truck reviews videos.
for mowing in reverse, pull up on the PTO switch. There's also a work-around for it, but I don't know how that works.
You can use the mower in reverse if you hold the rocker switch down when you go into reverse then you can release the rocker switch. You have to do it every time you want to reverse.
The JD iMatch quick hitch is a must, you can connect your implements without getting off the machine, other than the PTO.
I have iMatch on both of my 3 series CUT's, but they only have that box blade (that will get used seldom if ever) so for them, it's probably not too necessary at this time.
Should have bought the R. The resale value will more than make up for capX difference. The extra productivity with the added features makes a difference.
I am amazed at how often I need every one of those 25HPs. They are at altitude; they are down from the 23 HP, maybe closer to 20, so, at some point, they are going to realize that they should have paid for the extra HP.
@@smarticus6384 well, Rogaine Roman “has a plan”…. 😎 He made the call to not go R. I agree with your point 💯
You've got to by-pass the reverse PTO cut off switch as I did to keep the mower engaged everytime you back up a few inches then move forward then repeat a hundred times. You'll learn quickly that you'll be over riding that switch very quickly. Oh, and the seat pressure sensor too!
The best purchase you can make for your ranch. I have a 33 hp tractor for my place in CO and you will use it for a lot more than you realize. I bought a used JD snow blower from the 80s and it's crazy to think that 4Rivers was still able to order parts for it.
John Deere tractors are very nice machines.
On a ranch, you should’ve kept the beefier tires. Lawm tires are preferable on really nice lawns like a park or gold course, but on a ranch style mower/tractor, the beefier tires are much more useful, especially when wet and in snow.
Turf tires (knobbys) are actually better in snow than R4's. And are better on your lawn. Way better. R4 tires rip up lawns, and I don't care what anyone says about that. I own two 3 series JD's, one with turf tires (3025E) and one with R4's (3720) and I have to keep the 3720 with the R4's off the lawn in the summer (unfortunately, kind of sucks) because those tires will damage the lawn. I can drive the 3025E all over the lawn & never know it was there. Salesmen who say R4's aren't any harder on the lawn than turf tires are wrong. Now on Roman's new tractor they got those "inbetween" tires, they're relatively new (not sure what they're called, is it R3?) that are a cross between a turf tire and an R4, they look like they'd be easier on a lawn than R4's but still bite in the dirt. Turf tires are known to be better in snow than R4's though, most who have both agree with this. I have a blower on my 3025E with turf tires and it's excellent in snow.
It’s been a few episodes since I watched, but it’s nice to see they hired Bruce Dern to play the character David on this little docudrama.
Box blade isn't bad, but don't underestimate the use of a good rake implement
That is an awesome machine guys. Congrats. The only thing I will say is the commercial ztr would blow the door's off the tractor as far as how long it will take to cut all that grass. Night and day difference. But with that you will be able to be more versatile for sure.
Get. A set of wheel weights and fill the rear tires. I makes it much more stable. Also, use the deck height adjustment knob to set your cutting height and then adjust the deck wheels so they are just off the ground.
Enjoyed this video. I have a 1025R that is a delight. Don't forget the unreachable Zerk on the drive shaft. I had to get a special grease-gun pencil tip to hit that. Hold the top of the PTO switch in with your thumb to mow in reverse. (Read the manual!)
You CAN mow in reverse if you pull out on the PTO engagement knob (at least on my older version of the 1023E).
Mowing is the great escape... especially when you have acreage to knock out... we just had 5 acres... started with a Troy-Bilt zero turn that lasted about 15 years and then upgraded to a Spartan HD zero-turn 60" cut... reduced my mow time by half and also was not as beat up afterward.
I had a Massey subcompact. The versatility is great! But next time I’ll go with Deere or kubota. Had nothing but trouble out of the Massey
Tractors and equipment are excellent deductions. Get to depreciate the full amount the first year.
looks like Roman is a big boy with his favorite toy ;)
So coagulation is ONLY with liquids (most commonly blood). I was rather confused when he used that word when referring to debris accumulating on the mower deck.
Yeah that was very odd. I thought okay one time maybe it was a mistake, but he said it twice.
Possibly a bit of bias here as I run a YT235 from Yanmar on 17 acres.
Based on what you want to do it sounds like you went a bit undersize on the tractor. Particularly for tilling. If you are under 5 acres it may not be bad, but if you are over 5 I think the 35hp+ tractors are your sweet spot up to 20 acres or if you have hard work like disc harrowing, tilling, brush hogging or forestry work. If you are just going to mow and box blade then the above doesn’t matter.
John Deere is great for high end tractors for most homesteaders we run Kubota or in some cases Yanmar.
Good luck and enjoy the tractor.
Yeah tilling takes a lot of HP, a tiller wide enough to cover the wheels on a 1025R (48") will give it a load in harder ground.
As others have said, the R has a lot more than arm rests and 2hp. You also get:
- auxiliary lights on the fenders (much better lighting for mowing etc, after dark)
- rubber floor mats
- active closed loop height control for the 3-point hitch
- better seat
- 12v power outlet (charging phones, etc)
- dual cup holders
- fender mounted toolbox
- cruise control (useful when mowing large areas so you don't need to constantly hold the forward pedal at a constant depth)
- tilt steering
- and 25% more powerful PTO output for driving tillers, rear grass mowers, offset flail mowers, and other implements
The 1025R is well worth the extra in my opinion (after much research we bought a 1025R for our property).
Another thing that is HIGHLY recommended is to buy a front end loader at the same time because it is much more expensive to add later and is extremely, extremely useful.
In our case we also decided to get a backhoe attachment (if you need one, again buy it with the tractor because there are major frame as well as hydraulic add-ons required). We have already used the backhoe to replace 2 large culverts, to dig out 30 large stumps (I did upgrade the bucket curl hydraulic cylinder, which makes ripping stump roots much easier), to repair our septic system, and to dredge our creek.
Another extremely useful addition is a grapple, which attaches to the bucket's quick connect and requires a 3rd function hydraulic add on (search for Summit Hydraulic kits). Again well worth the money IMO (we got a 8-port rear hydraulic kit to also control our offset flail mower, hydraulic top link and other accessories).
In two years we've put almost 300 hours on our 1025R and it has been incredibly useful.
We own the JD 2305 since 2005 which came before the 1025. The belly mower should NOT always be running on the small black wheels. If you do, those wheels will wear out quickly and they are about $60 each. Read the manual.
Manual tells you to set the gauge wheels so they're off the ground 1/4" or so, so they're not always under load, but engage quickly with the ground in uneven conditions to keep the cut even and totally prevent scalping. Does an excellent job that way, especially if you have a big deck. Need to keep those wheels greased, and yes, they do wear out but a quick trip to Ebay and you'll have new ones at your doorstep for under $60. These are wear items, need to be replaced every now & then. On a $15,000 rig, these gauge wheels cost peanuts and do so much for cut quailty. That's why the manual says what it says. But no, the deck shouldn't be running on the gauge wheels constantly.
To mow backwards, you need to either hold the PTO yellow button that you use to turn on the deck, or you have to click it once. I haven't used this specific tractor, but the one I have is a click for backwards.
Interesting vid👍I don’t mind JD tractor just make sure get tractor service done just any other brand of tractors, having grease gun, spare parts like filters n air compressor will make looking after tractor easier. Maybe portable fuel tank like 200lt or 400lt to fill up? Don’t forget to shed tractor n equipment to keep it in better condition👍
You could retune it to get the 2 hp back, but John Deere would probably disable it remotely. lol
If using the tractor for large areas, and other uses a three point mower makes more sense. Deere also has its own mount for attachments to the loader instead of skid steer mount that most others use so Deere attachments cost more.
I bought the 1025R two years ago..I love it! Yes it's expensive but you get what you pay for..I am 65 don't drink or smoke or gamble..so I pay extra on no interest loan will pay off in 50 months instead of 84....
Yes, you can back up with the mower deck running. You push the pto button before you hit the reverse peddle. Once your moving you can let go of the button. It’s a safety feature someone came up with that’s really annoying… lol
Love the new 1023E .Great video guys
I must be like David because I can see he haggled the dealership to throw in a free baseball cap with their purchase.
To mow in reverse, just hold the rocker switch in until you start backing up, then you can let the switch go. Once your reverse motion stops, you will have push the switch again.
I love all of this stuff, I can’t wait to see the next content! Thank you to all of you involved.