This is fantastic information!! I finally got tired of sanding soooo much, it is time to start dialing my settings in better haha thank you so much for this video!! 😊
very help full as always, I had spent the whole day doing this and I have dialed in m printer as much as I could, I managed to get it all spot on.. thanks for the info
thank you for the wealth of knowledge you provide you've made my life infintently easier as all your explanations are great on point no fluff just pure knowledge
I have to be honest, my early videos (poor quality) contained the fluff then I discovered that people prefer that I say what we're going to do, how to do it and then we do it! Nothing but information! Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!
I have been wasting my time on the Creality CR6-SE, I thought I was doing something wrong until I realised the strain guage is not accurate. I want to change it to something else but that would cost even more and I am fed up with it, I took some measures to stabilize all other forces that are altering the bed leveling, but now I will start tunning it using this video, thank you sir.
@@pushingplastic7445 it did help thank you sir! on average I got it near 0.8, the thing is, that average consist of one wall being 0.77 and the rest above 0.81 or 0.82, why aren't all the walls relatively the same?
@@SaifBinAdhed Believe it or not, sometimes it can be that pressure being applied on the calipers. More commonly, it's because the printer is coming off of a corner. The walls will always be thicker near corners because the print head slows down to make the 90 degree turn but the filament is still flowing, sometimes it's flowing faster than others depending on the material, the print temperature and the size of the model. The numbers you're getting look pretty good!
@@pushingplastic7445 yep, I'm pretty happy with what I got, I'm doing all steps you are recommending and I'm enjoying every step of that way, but I just realized that the strain guage on my CR6SE will always be my issue, I need to find a way to replace it with a different bed leveling mechanism. thanks again 🙏
Thanks to viewers like yourself helping this channel grow, I was able to get a new microphone! Thanks you so very much for watching and putting up with the bad audio!!
These are some settings I have yet to mess around with but I think I'm ready to give them a try. I recently discovered how useful outer wall inset can be. That coupled with slicing tolerance options have really started to help things fit well. This will be an interesting addition to the testing I've been doing with vase mode/nozzle size/layer height. I recently came across STUPID CHEAP PETG...I'm talking $19.87 per kg with shipping and taxes included cheap....it prints out amazingly smooth and really flows well at 230°C. Layer lines seem to disappear. So far I've been using it to mess around with a bunch of other settings you've suggested and things are getting rather interesting...in a good way. And yes...I picked up a good amount of that filament...another 10kg is on its way. 😁
That’s a great deal on the petg! And you can never have enough! If you mess around with these settings, load a simple shape into cura and change them to some some absurd value like 5mm. Slice and look at the preview. You don’t have to print it. It’s just a great visual on what these settings can do for you!
Thank you for this model & video. It is very helpful. Do you have any advice on what to do if the squate hole is measuring 24.80 but the circle holes & outer dims are spot on?
Thanks for the kind words! Unfortunately I don't have an answer to that question.....yet! I will dig into this and see if I can find answer. I'll post it as a reply when I come up with something! Thanks for your kind words and thanks for watching!
Thank you very much for the informative video... in case of different error amount in the outside dimensions ... should I take an average ??? Thanks again
Interesting subject... didn't even know it existed :). I have been printing alot of items lately that need proper fitting and they all have come out pretty close to perfect. Stuff like hinges (cough cough), screw top bottles, sliding dovetails, etc. Of course now that I said something... tolerances are going to go to the dump.
Lol, yeah these settings help. I’m my early days of 3D printing I didn’t bother with them. But now I’m printing things that need tighter tolerances at times and these settings helped me out big time!
Is this the correct order for calibrating? 1- PID Tuning for hotend and bed, 2- Extruder E/Steps, 3- Flow Rate, 4- X,Y,Z E/Steps, 5- Hole Expansion, then Hole Horizintal Expansion? Did I miss anything? And which ones do I need to do again for different brands of filament?
In the order you listed them, I run and temperature tower, followed by retraction test after flow rate. When I switch filament brands, I run the flow rate, temperature tower, then retraction.
hi great vid,new to 3d printing. I was wondering if i could have some advise on a model i'm trying to make, i would like to re create a part for a glue machine i use the part is the nut that holds the mixing tube, it is a nut with threads in side with a taper and hole for the tube to pass through and sit in.. I have managed to make one but the problem is the body is ok but the threads dont fit, or the threads is fine but the body too short and if i adjust anything it all goes wrong thanks paul.
I've actually been thinking about this for a few hours now. I'm assuming that by the body being to short, you mean in height, not width Is this a part you designed? If so, you might better off to try to manipulate the file in some CAD software. I would modify the body to suit the length that you need without touching the thread. If the width is the problem, I would figure out how short it is, use horizontal expansion to increase the width and then use Hole Horizontal expansion with a negative value. So if the width of the body is short by 1mm, set your horizontal expansion to 0.05mm and your hole horizontal expansion to -0.05mm. This would increase the body width by 1mm while keeping your threads the same size, the size that works. I'm sorry for shoddy answer, without seeing the part it's hard to provide a better answer. But I thank you greatly for watching.
Best way to get a good profile, dial in your eSteps & flow rate. Run a temp tower to determined the best temp for your filament followed by a retraction tower. That'll put you on the right path. I have videos for those on my channel. Good luck!!
so after doing several of my machines ive come into an issue. intial layer accuracy is a fucking ruinimg my there a modell youve made that wont include the intial layer for the dimiensional accruacy?. i need a way to measure model accuracy that doesnt include initial layer accracy.
The one I used was one I drew up real quick. I didn't post it for download since there are so many like it out there. Here's a link to one that might help. Thanks for watching! www.printables.com/model/470393-horizontal-expansion-calibration
you have a good microphone but you still have idea why your sound levels are all most like mute. Dude nothing is more creapyer then an matured guy making himself a fool reading a prompter while doing a bad job at the sound and image. Why didn't you just found a job?:)) Be a worker?:)) stop fooling arround.
I have a job, Engineering Supervisor with 42 years of Engineering experience. But thanks for your comments concerning it. Since you came here looking for guidance on getting better results for your prints I can only hope that you found it. Judging by the number of views and other comments, I can only assume that you did but are too to immature to admit it. Someday when you grow up and move out of your mom’s basement, you’ll mature enough to say thank & move on. Thanks for watching and the comment. It’s what drives the algorithm. I’m sure you see my videos in your UA-cam feed going forward! Tell your mom I said hi!
Great vid, very clear. I finally understand what horizontal expansion is about.
Awesome! Glad it helped and I thank you so very much for watching and the kind words!
This is fantastic information!! I finally got tired of sanding soooo much, it is time to start dialing my settings in better haha thank you so much for this video!! 😊
Awesome! Glad it helped & thanks for watching!
I think your channel deserves way more attention! Great work, thank you!
Extremely useful settings. I had to use Horizontal and Hole for a project recently and it really helps. Thanks!
I had to recently use it for a shaft & bearing project I was working on. These settings are great! Thanks for watching!
very help full as always, I had spent the whole day doing this and I have dialed in m printer as much as I could, I managed to get it all spot on.. thanks for the info
Awesome! I'm glad these videos are helping!! Thanks for those kind words and thanks for watching!!!
thank you for the wealth of knowledge you provide you've made my life infintently easier as all your explanations are great on point no fluff just pure knowledge
I have to be honest, my early videos (poor quality) contained the fluff then I discovered that people prefer that I say what we're going to do, how to do it and then we do it! Nothing but information! Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!
Thank you sir taking the time to make this video
I have been wasting my time on the Creality CR6-SE, I thought I was doing something wrong until I realised the strain guage is not accurate. I want to change it to something else but that would cost even more and I am fed up with it, I took some measures to stabilize all other forces that are altering the bed leveling, but now I will start tunning it using this video, thank you sir.
I hope this helps! Post your results and thanks for watching!
@@pushingplastic7445 it did help thank you sir! on average I got it near 0.8, the thing is, that average consist of one wall being 0.77 and the rest above 0.81 or 0.82, why aren't all the walls relatively the same?
@@SaifBinAdhed Believe it or not, sometimes it can be that pressure being applied on the calipers. More commonly, it's because the printer is coming off of a corner. The walls will always be thicker near corners because the print head slows down to make the 90 degree turn but the filament is still flowing, sometimes it's flowing faster than others depending on the material, the print temperature and the size of the model. The numbers you're getting look pretty good!
@@pushingplastic7445 yep, I'm pretty happy with what I got, I'm doing all steps you are recommending and I'm enjoying every step of that way, but I just realized that the strain guage on my CR6SE will always be my issue, I need to find a way to replace it with a different bed leveling mechanism.
thanks again 🙏
Thanks for this! Very helpful info.
thank u for getting a new mic
Thanks to viewers like yourself helping this channel grow, I was able to get a new microphone! Thanks you so very much for watching and putting up with the bad audio!!
These are some settings I have yet to mess around with but I think I'm ready to give them a try. I recently discovered how useful outer wall inset can be. That coupled with slicing tolerance options have really started to help things fit well. This will be an interesting addition to the testing I've been doing with vase mode/nozzle size/layer height. I recently came across STUPID CHEAP PETG...I'm talking $19.87 per kg with shipping and taxes included cheap....it prints out amazingly smooth and really flows well at 230°C. Layer lines seem to disappear. So far I've been using it to mess around with a bunch of other settings you've suggested and things are getting rather interesting...in a good way.
And yes...I picked up a good amount of that filament...another 10kg is on its way. 😁
That’s a great deal on the petg! And you can never have enough! If you mess around with these settings, load a simple shape into cura and change them to some some absurd value like 5mm. Slice and look at the preview. You don’t have to print it. It’s just a great visual on what these settings can do for you!
Thank you for this model & video. It is very helpful. Do you have any advice on what to do if the squate hole is measuring 24.80 but the circle holes & outer dims are spot on?
Thanks for the kind words! Unfortunately I don't have an answer to that question.....yet! I will dig into this and see if I can find answer. I'll post it as a reply when I come up with something! Thanks for your kind words and thanks for watching!
Great content.
Thanks & thank you very much for watching!
Great and usefull, it's usefull for delta printer's dimension issue
Thanks & thanks for watching!
Thank you very much for the informative video... in case of different error amount in the outside dimensions ... should I take an average ??? Thanks again
Yes, take the average!!! Thanks for watching!
Interesting subject... didn't even know it existed :).
I have been printing alot of items lately that need proper fitting and they all have come out pretty close to perfect. Stuff like hinges (cough cough), screw top bottles, sliding dovetails, etc.
Of course now that I said something... tolerances are going to go to the dump.
Lol, yeah these settings help. I’m my early days of 3D printing I didn’t bother with them. But now I’m printing things that need tighter tolerances at times and these settings helped me out big time!
ok i need this on purse slicer please my holes are off .50
At 5:46 Horiz Exp set to 0.05mm then @ 5:52 Horiz Exp set -0.05mm to counter it ????, could have left it as it was then ????. What did I miss here
Pushing P baby!
I'm not sure how to respond to that!! But thanks for watching!
Is this the correct order for calibrating?
1- PID Tuning for hotend and bed, 2- Extruder E/Steps, 3- Flow Rate, 4- X,Y,Z E/Steps, 5- Hole Expansion, then Hole Horizintal Expansion?
Did I miss anything?
And which ones do I need to do again for different brands of filament?
In the order you listed them, I run and temperature tower, followed by retraction test after flow rate. When I switch filament brands, I run the flow rate, temperature tower, then retraction.
hi great vid,new to 3d printing. I was wondering if i could have some advise on a model i'm trying to make, i would like to re create a part for a glue machine i use the part is the nut that holds the mixing tube, it is a nut with threads in side with a taper and hole for the tube to pass through and sit in.. I have managed to make one but the problem is the body is ok but the threads dont fit, or the threads is fine but the body too short and if i adjust anything it all goes wrong thanks paul.
I've actually been thinking about this for a few hours now. I'm assuming that by the body being to short, you mean in height, not width Is this a part you designed? If so, you might better off to try to manipulate the file in some CAD software. I would modify the body to suit the length that you need without touching the thread. If the width is the problem, I would figure out how short it is, use horizontal expansion to increase the width and then use Hole Horizontal expansion with a negative value. So if the width of the body is short by 1mm, set your horizontal expansion to 0.05mm and your hole horizontal expansion to -0.05mm. This would increase the body width by 1mm while keeping your threads the same size, the size that works. I'm sorry for shoddy answer, without seeing the part it's hard to provide a better answer. But I thank you greatly for watching.
Hi, you only are meashuring horizontal and not vertical
Yes, that's true. The video is only about Horizontal expansion.
i need a good profile to start on an ender 5 plus stock for cura 5.7 if anyone has one. ALSO with this help with print in placec items????
Best way to get a good profile, dial in your eSteps & flow rate. Run a temp tower to determined the best temp for your filament followed by a retraction tower. That'll put you on the right path. I have videos for those on my channel. Good luck!!
Should've said horizontal expansion at 0.05 and HOLE horizontal expansion at -.015
so after doing several of my machines ive come into an issue. intial layer accuracy is a fucking ruinimg my there a modell youve made that wont include the intial layer for the dimiensional accruacy?. i need a way to measure model accuracy that doesnt include initial layer accracy.
Just set you initial layer height to be equal to all of the other layers. For example, if your layer is 0.2, set the initial layer height to 0.2.
do you have a link to the stl used?
The one I used was one I drew up real quick. I didn't post it for download since there are so many like it out there. Here's a link to one that might help. Thanks for watching! www.printables.com/model/470393-horizontal-expansion-calibration
@@pushingplastic7445 You should put this link in the description for all of to use yours :)
@@nicsavage8868 Done! Link to file is in the video description! Sorry for the delayed response & thanks for watching!
you have a good microphone but you still have idea why your sound levels are all most like mute. Dude nothing is more creapyer then an matured guy making himself a fool reading a prompter while doing a bad job at the sound and image. Why didn't you just found a job?:)) Be a worker?:)) stop fooling arround.
I have a job, Engineering Supervisor with 42 years of Engineering experience. But thanks for your comments concerning it. Since you came here looking for guidance on getting better results for your prints I can only hope that you found it. Judging by the number of views and other comments, I can only assume that you did but are too to immature to admit it. Someday when you grow up and move out of your mom’s basement, you’ll mature enough to say thank & move on. Thanks for watching and the comment. It’s what drives the algorithm. I’m sure you see my videos in your UA-cam feed going forward! Tell your mom I said hi!