A much better way to find out if your current alternator is adequate is to turn on all the electrical accessories that you realistically would use at the same time such as headlights, AC, radio, electric fans if you have them, etc and watch the battery voltage with the engine idling. As long as the voltage isn't dropping below around 13-13.2 volts under a realistic heavy load at idle RPM, your alternator is keeping up just fine. What you really don't want to see is the voltage dropping below the battery's static voltage of around 12.8 volts because that means the alternator isn't keeping up and you are drawing power from the battery rather than charging it. But If the voltage is dropping too far, don't condemn the alternator right away. Check the battery cables, alternator charge cable, ground straps, etc for any damage or excessive voltage drop first. Sometimes just cleaning up and/or upgrading the main power and ground cables can make a big difference for very little or no cost. Also, make sure the belt is tight and in decent shape.
OFC oure copper cable isn't cheap but yes do inspect and replace the cables or add a 4AWG to all connections pos. amd neg. While at it upgrade the alternator too, just got a 220A for $150 new open box on eBay for my Chevy truck. I mean the original will go bad one day anyway.
Another tip: If upgrading your alternator is expensive and/or impractical in your application, you can easily and relatively cheaply significantly reduce the load on your current alternator by replacing your headlights, taillights, fog lights, marker lights, etc with LED bulbs since they draw much less power than regular incandescent bulbs.
@@steveolive9991 If all the lighting is LED from the factory, then that's about as power efficient as you are going to get. You could still upgrade the grounds and the alternator's power cable though.
What an awesome an informative video very helpful you answered like three questions that I've been trying to figure out 4 years in 5 minutes... Much appreciated.
Just hooked up a 12” sub in my truck powered by a 1k amp. Never thought it would as much power as it does idling. I can see the battery gauge draw back. Time to upgrade the alternator on my ram. I even have LEDs all around.
Use an amp clamp with direct readout or coupled with a good digital multimeter. Fuses are thermal devices at the location changes the rate at which they open due to current increases in a circuit. They are chosen at a rating 20% higher than the circuit or device they protect. They heat up during turning the circuit on to handle cold coopers low resistance known as amperage in-rush. The amperage is the intensity of the pressure of electron flow thru a circuit. Voltage is the potential for electron to move from an area of abundance to an area of deficiency. A battery in good continental uses less the 0.5 amps or less to charge it. The circuits are generally all series circuits and the device is designed to consume all of the voltage in that circuit, minus the voltage loss across connectors, switches, fuse and all wires on the positive & negative side. Clean large gauge wire it recommended for the frame to all point electrical devices are used. Commonly solder, shrink tubing, Star-washers and the use of dielectric grease keeps out moisture and oxygen to reduce or eliminate corrosion. Remember, the end frame of the alternator it where diodes allow the negative half of the alternating current is produced. Providing a large ground wire to bolt directly to it then to the battery, engine and frame will allow more current thru less resistance allowing the alternator to work less hard and last longer. High output alternators when needed are expensive but bolting one on is just the beginning of upgrading the vehicles electrical system. Please, always use rubber grommets thru holes if adding components under the seat or trunk or even underneath the vehicle, like a automatic trans cooler with a fan. Keep wires clean away from moving or hot parts or add a simple heat shield to leave an air gap and reflect radiated heat away. Add a ground next to wires that carry low current A/C signals like a speed generator, wrap with foil tape, route away from spark plug wires then terminate the ground at the end of this circuit to help with shielding. Learn voltage drop testing dc circuits to accurately and quickly locate high resistance before purchasing expensive unnecessary components. Hope this helps
Jacob, thanks but need whole milk. Squeeze 4 of those every AM for 5 years, you will set a little milk-fat cream used to make butter on the side! Now you know, the rest of the story. Farm to Amps. Thanks!
I put a 320 in place of a 63 amp in my 91 Ford pickup. I deleted the mechanical fan and replaced them with 2 electric cooling fans, also used a 2000 watt inverter often. Had a manuals throttle cable to increase the RPM when using the inverter. I also swapped the pulleys to increase the alternator RPM. I installed a 2 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery and added two grounds both 2 gauge, negative post of the battery to the body and same to the alternator bracket of the alternator. The Ambulance alternator was rated at a 90% duty cycle. Overkill or should I have done more?
Hi Ray, Sounds like you have covered all of the bases for installing you high amperage alternator. You can verify that you have done enough by checking your voltage at the battery, with the engine running, and with all of your accessories turned on, it should stay above 13.7 volts.
A lot of talking but not getting down to the facts of what needs to happen. One is an alternator that puts out more amps to help run things more efficiently, you may have to increase the output wire to the battery and it's always a good idea to put a battery of more amperage. How it bolts up pulley size yes those are concerns but you'll be able to figure it out.
Have a 2014 Ford Fusion se 1.5 L having a real hard time looking for a high output alternator for this car. Have a bunch of equipment waiting to get installed but need that alternator.
I have a 2003 Z71 Suburban 5.3 engine. The problem I'm having is when I'm driving, the truck just turns off. The battery light comes on for a few seconds and then stays on a few seconds after the engine turns off. What could be the problem? Also, I put a used alternator in. Everything tested good, battery, alternator and starter.
@Snow Crest > Get a DR44 off 99 - 2004 Silverado to Tahoe. Single wire upgrade on new style regulator, 460 ohms between it and key hot. Easy to polish. Just put slip-rings, brushes and heavy copper 80 Amp (Each) diode plate. Slip rings covered with old epoxy, chips off. Un-solder and twist to remove. Slip ring keyed to shaft just brass plate stator in vise and pry up at 180 degrees apart with large screwdrivers, medium pry bar or slip-ring puller from SnapOn. Paint as needed with case wire ground to engine & battery. B+ wire to battery and starter. 144 Amps at 1,300 RPM depending on pulley size and “All” V-belt GM pulleys fit. Just don’t loose spacer and always support case & install new bearings. Trick is chip edge off housing, stake new ones in w/blue thread locker. RED takes torch! 60’s Tech!
My stock alternator is only 80 amps and I have added a few accessories, but I am installing a powerful 5 channel JL audio amp and I upgraded my alternator to the next level I found at 180 amps. But the pully is pretty much the same size as my stock one was, and I upgraded my charging and ground wires to 0 gauge.... I did notice after first driving it that the computer went through a re-learn period (also I did have my battery disconnected for quite a while. Obviously) So i think with the battery disconnected and the stereo and amp along with the upgraded alternator this is normal...
Yes, it is common for a vehicle’s ECM to lose adaptations and have to go through a re-learn period if the battery is disconnected for any period of time.
i need help on this so i got this dodge charger 2011 and 2 amps one of 1500w and the other 4000w do i need to upgrade the alternator?? or do i have to buy a power capacitor???
I need help I got a 2006 dodge charger rt with aftermarket mods, spyder headlights, pioneer radio, aftermarket door speakers, camshaft, 3200 stall, rockford fosgate 1000W 4 channel amp, a 1500.1D monoblock Orion amp 2 skar 10" subs and a regular car battery
I have a 2009 Chevy Silverado 2500 stock I put in car system down for sound amplifier 2300 W I do have a small light bar what kind of alternator do you recommend
My car ('Hetty') has a 70amp Alternator (factory), and I want to add a 2nd battery to exclusively power Accessories (Phone, LapTop, Front/Rear Camera, etc...) do I need to upgrade the Alternator to a 80amp? 145amp? etc?
I had a land Rover Series 3, if i upgrade it from 40amps to 120 AMPS what Is the effect? Is it ok for wiring? Is it ok for the system? well i had an upgrade for the electric things too and add the aircon also 🙏.
where can i find a 1998 saturn sc1 high amp Alternator not sure who to trust. i have 2 cb amps 2pill and 6pill amp the more the better.ebay offers them but not to sure if i can trust them
My 79 Lincoln Mark V died on the road. It is an alternator issue. The alternator is just not charging the battery. I believe it is a 60 or 70 amp alternator. I have an aftermarket sound system installed, but it's only like an 800 w amp that powers 2, 12-In subs. My question is: is it just a bad alternator, or should I go for something with more juice, like a 100 amp alternator? I have heard that using an alternator that is too big can just fry the cells in a battery. Since my sound system is not huge, should I just replace the alternator with something similar?
My 2018 Promater City van's OEM alternator is 160a has gone bad and only putting out 12.5v. There is a lot of power demand on my van. I run a giant battery 155ah AGM starter battery and 2000 watt inverter + LED lights and other appliances. I want to put in a 320a after market alternator, but worry about the computer and affecting gas mileage. Should worry the battery fuse to my alternator is only 150a. Any pully changes if manuf claims it will fit?
I'm adding a second battery to my 1999 Suburban 5.7L. It has the stock 105a alternator. I want the extra battery just for a few odds and ends while camping. I don't really see any reason to upgrade to 140a, unless someone else thinks otherwise?
I have a 2004 chevy suburban which I use for everyday driving and long distance driving. What amp alternator do I need for a stereo system that I slam on the weekend but bump on the weekdays too? My bass amp is 9000 watts max power pushing 2- 12 inch subwoofers now but later will be 4-12 inch subwoofers.
OFC pure copper cable isn't cheap but yes do inspect and replace the cables or simply add a 4AWG to all factory connections pos. and neg. While at it upgrade the alternator too, just got a 220A for $150 new open box on eBay for my Chevy truck. Might as well do it now before the stock alternator goes bad and leaves you stranded.
What about old 1963 externally regulated vehicles? I was told to replace my OEM mechanical regulator by a high performance solid state regulator, my problem is that I can't find a HIGH performance regulator they are all rated the same. My question is: Do I really need a special performance regulator or they are all the same as far as handling more or less amps? Great video, thank you all for your input.
I have a 2019 Jeep Cherokee Latitude stock Alt is 160 amp. Tryna figure out a good HO for it I’m running a JL Audio 1500 Watt RD Amp 0 gauge wired to a JL Audio 13.5 W7. 4 DS18 Door Speakers with I believe a 1500 Watt DS18 Amp. Any suggestions. Headlights don’t dim, but my interior lights do every bass hit. Want to run a second battery in the back as well.
I have a 1989 Ford Bronco XLT and a plow was added to the vehicle. I bought it to clear my driveway. I tried to use it last winter and it died after a short while. I had the battery and alternator checked and they were fine. I ran the numbers on the side of the alternator in it and believe it to be 75 amp and it has a couple of wire connectors on it. I pulled the trigger and ordered a power master rated for 150 amp. My concern is the wires. I went with what they call a "one wire" and mine has two connectors plugged in it and lots of wires. I will try to follow the directions on the new one, but does anyone have any info on the upgrade I will attempt?
Hi, Your one wire alternator is easy to hook up to make it function. You just need a good ground to the alternator case and the correct gauge wire from the alternator terminal to the positive terminal of the battery for the alternator to function correctly. You will need to look at the wiring diagram of your Ford Bronco to determine what the original wiring connectors do and which ones need to be hooked up or removed. Thanks for watching!
Hi,i want to set up a sound system with a 3700 watts 5 channel amplifier to my 2008 subaru outback,do i need to change the factory alternator with a higher amp?if i need to,may how much more amps do i need?
having issues with my charging system i think i need a bigger alternator now that i watch ur vid.. my problem is if i leave the battery plag it will drain my battery n if i run my head light it will also drain my battery
Hi, Your best way is to hook up a volt meter to your Battery. Start your vehicle and start turning on each accessory. Once all of your lights, fans and other are accessories are on, take a look at your volt meter. If it is below 13 - 12.5 volts, you will need to upgrade your alternator. Typically an Alternator will but out 13.5 - 14 volts. I hope this helps.
Should i get high output alternator? I got oem 140A alternator, 2x 90Ah agm batteries. Absolute max amp draw for my aftermarket audio is about 470A and my battery voltages never go under 13 when i use them
HI, if a higher output alternator is available for your case style, we would suggest upgrading to a 200 amp or 250 amp. However if your lights aren’t diming or pulsing with your audio system, then you are doing okay with the 140 amp that you have.
I would say yes but then again look at the headlights when the subs are beatn! Your batteries may be helping you but to what extent! You can always bennefits from a bigger alt!
i have a 2007 4.0liter 4runner and i have two 12s on a 1500 watt amp and i have been having problem with my battery draining , should i keep the stock 130 alternator or get the 240 amp mechman alternator
Hi, If you have a one wire capable Alternator, then you only need to run one wire from the output of the Alternator directly to the Positive terminal of the Battery. And confirm the Alternator case is grounded to the engine block.
The other day I was running one of those low end 12v portable compressors for about 10 minutes while the engine was running at medium rpm after I was done with the compressor I ran the engine for another 15-20mins then I shat it down, then when I tried to start, it crapped itself!
Great tool linked for configuring the appropriate charge capacity for your alternator. Do you have one for modern vehicles that have high draw devices like coil on plug ignition, fuel injection and high performance fuel pumps?
Thank you for your compliments. Unfortunately we do not have Amp draw chart for modern electronics. However, we found this one online. www.aa1car.com/library/electrical_amp_loads.htm Please note: This link is not affiliated with Summit Racing, but contains some good information for modern vehicles.
Hi, A 100 amp alternator will be ideal if your 1968 Dodge Is mostly stock. This should support your standard lights, along with a few aftermarket accessories like an electric fan, electric fuel pump, and a fuel injection system. If you have a high output stereo system or power windows, you should consider the 220 amp alternator. You may safely use a 220 amp alternator if your vehicle is mostly stock, this is especially helpful if you are planning to add additional electrical accessories in the future. I hope this helps.
@@theurbanartist775 There are a lot of great alternators sold on eBay, but there are also a lot of crappy ones. If you buy an alternator made by a reputable company such as Mechman or DC Power from a reputable seller you should be fine, but don't expect a no name million amp alternator to be reliable or perform anywhere nearly as well as advertised. If the price seems too good to be true it probably is, you get what you pay for. I have a video on my channel where I test a BNR high output alternator from eBay and show how poorly it performs if you want to check it out.
There is no problem using a larger battery with your existing alternator-just make sure the battery is fully charged prior to installation to avoid overworking the alternator. However, if the total load on the vehicle’s electrical system exceeds the alternator’s output (due to auxiliary lighting, an aftermarket stereo, etc.), any size battery will discharge, and the alternator could be damaged by overloading.
How if i wanna increase the Amper to be enough for the car to load all applications on the alternator with almost no battery usage? For ex. My car factory battery is 80 amps . Is it right to install a higher alternator amps for it like 90 amp??
@@colliermattful you need atleast 160. I'd go ahead and get a 200 just to be safe. BnR on ebay has good rebuilt and new ones. I just got a 250 for 200 and it's nice. Also bought a 200 a while back and it lasted a long time
@@deankay4434 We used to use heavy truck pulley's 4.5" with 14mm shaft and still run ½" wide belt. But as newer racing alternators based on a single wire Nippon-Denso high speed (and low rotating mass) became available, we switched. They are compatible with 3" V-pulley or serpentine 5 groove pulley with same diameter. Available in 50/60/75 amp models. For late model, 60 is more than enough unless you are allowed to run brake blowers. Some teams still run without an alternator for Saturday night 30 lap feature events at ⅜ mile or less tracks, saving 10 HP at the top end.
@@DougHanchard You could in theory do a couple of things to improve that and save a bit of battery mass. Put a switch under the accelerator pedal that disables the voltage regulator at WOT. That way when you need the extra 10 it will be there and when you dont you can charge the smaller battery and still be ok. You could also add/use a one way bearing to drive the alternator so when you lift the alternator will still spin if charge isnt required and when you get back on it less load to spin up the alternator as it's already spinning faster than the engine is running.
I have a question, my 1st gen scion xb seems like it wants to stall when my bass sound system is turned up. I have a 200amp alternator, do I need more amps Or less? I do have 1/0 AWG, thanks
Alternator seems big enough. You need a battery able to provide more power when the bass hits (so that it stops pulling so much from the alternator all at once). You can try a bigger battery or maybe a capacitor for that. Good luck!
It's possible your throttle body and or idle speed motor needs to be cleaned. Gum and varnish around the bore or in the IAC can cause the engine to idle below expected standards, affect idle recovery, and promote stalling. Check the state of the battery too. You may need to replace your battery with a higher reserve capacity version to help support the charging system when the alternator output is decreased at idle. Make sure all electrical connections are secure and free of corrosion to prevent unnecessary current resistance.
"The alternator output should be 50% greater than the total draw of your accessories." What counts as accessories? I have 25 amps of new power draw added into my fuse block on my 1970. The fuse block itself has 96 amps worth of fuses.
CAN SOMEONE HELP ME PLEASE?!?!?! I have looked EVERYWHERE and I cannot find a high amp alt for my 2014 chevy cruze!!! It's a 1.8 ecotec gas powered engine, any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you!!!
Currently we do not offer a high amp alternator for your application. You might want to try to locate an Alternator Rebuilder that can modify the original alternator to increase the amperage output.
@@yusufjorgenz5951 I have tried them too..... The only ones I found were for the 1.4 diesel and the 1.4 turbo. I paid for a 220 from Singer alternators and that was almost 2 weeks ago and they haven't even started building it yet so God knows when I will actually receive it
do u need to upgrade to fuse ? my stock alternator is 80amp with a 80amp fuse so if u swap over to a high output alternator 140amp do u need to match it with same fuse rated at 140amp ???? im guessing the 140amp alternator will blow the 80amp fuse ??? really need to know before i install this new H.O alternator 😫
I need to charge a 12 V battery bank of 800 Ah from a an alternator dedicated just for this. The batteries are recommended to be charged at 400 A. What alternator should I use? Can I use a high voltage (24 V or 48V) alternator and a regulator that will drop the voltage close to batteries to reduce the size of the wires? Thanks.
A general 1000w amp pulls 84 amps. 1000watt is generally standard (enough) for average consumers nowadays. But back then it was roughly 500- 900 He wasnt giving you a 20,000 watt build.😂
I'm curious whether it is better to add a second dedicated alternator for car audio (130amp stock alt) Or to replace the stock alternator for a 250 amp HO alt In my case I have a 2012 chevy cruze 1.4 turbo My alternator is stupid hard to get to but I think there's plenty room for a second one. Second alt is 200$ While a HO alt for this car is 600$ish
If possible, I'd prefer one larger, more efficient alternator over a second. Less load overall placed on engine this way. Overall helping efficiency of the engine. Especially given the implied relatively low current draw of your system, a single HO would be the best benefit to you.
Looking to get a 300 amp alt for my 07' Trailblazer. I've got a 2000 watt rms car audio system that requires a 200 amp fuse. So hopefully it will be enough. May need an extra battery or 2. I got a XS Power 3400 I bought off of summit racing a couple month ago. I'm very happy with it!
Hello I have a 2014 Honda Odyssey, I currently have LED head lights , and tail lights, I also have LED interior lights LED fog lights and a couple of amps, speakers aftermarket radio and I’m looking to upgrade my alternator due to the fact, that I have replaced my alternator three times in less than two years. My current amperage is 200 I would like to go up to 500 if possible? Any recommendations?
I installed a second battery on my brother truck and upgraded from 120 amp alternator to 150. Rurns great ALL THIS FOR AUDIO SYSTEM. I dont think it wont hurt if you upgrade yours
Hi, You do not need a high output alternator to charge dual batteries. If your truck came equipped with dual batteries, then you only need the stock replacement alternator. However, If you have added additional accessories, then you will need to find out the amperage of the components that have been added and you will want to find an alternator that will fit your truck that will have a higher output than the original alternator. I hope this helps.
there is way more to it then just a high amp alt. in many cases if you just put in a 250-300 amp alt you will destroy another link in chain. many new cars have voltage regulators in the computer. these will give people many headaches. if your going over 200 amps you have a lot to change. in most cases people just need more idle current. a 150 ampish alt with smaller pulley will solve most peoples problems. you really have to find what use case your in. addition or upgrading voltages regulation, 2x or 3x rectifies will be more useful for people. im not an expert but you need to find someone who understand everything in the chain.
the battery still needs a slow amp charge. it seems guys with very big 300-450 amp alts need to use a trickle charging system when they park there vehicles.
Well the 50% thing is more because an alternator is sold by its max amperage. There’s other numbers like idle amperage both cold and hot that are lower and even lower when hot. If you can’t produce enough amperage at idle you’ll still be straining it. Problem not solved. This is especially useful in very high wattage car stereos. If your idling you wanna make enough power as well an when driving. Plus massive headroom is always a nice thing.
Amplifiers drive subwoofers. Your car's alternator ampere rating determines how powerful an amplifier you can install. Multiply the ampere rating by 40%, and you'll get a rough idea of how much reserve current capacity your car's system has. Based on the size of the amplifier, you may need to upsize your charging system. To calculate the draw of an amplifier: Multiply the number of channels by the RMS watts per channel. For example, a two-channel amp rated at 200 watts RMS per channel would be 400 watts. Double it to account for amplifier inefficiency (400 watts X 2 = 800 watts), divide by an alternator's average output voltage, 13.8 volts (800 divided by 13.8 = 87 amps). Because the average music signal requires approximately 1/3 of the average power, divide by 3 (58 amps divided by 3 = 19.3 amps). The result is the amplifier's approximate current draw at peak use.
@@SummitRacing im having a problem with my 08 328i randomly turning of while driving. I have a stock alternaton, and running a 3,000 watt amp and a secondary battery connexted2 to a 15' sub. My idle runs slightly irradict when playing the system at high volumes. And my car turns off after a hour or so of driving or idling. Then turns back on after 10 mins. My mechanic suggested uprgading my alternator
And for godsakes get rid of your old turd of a lead acid battery and get a good agm or lithium that state what their highest amp load can be and make sure it's enough for you application.
A much better way to find out if your current alternator is adequate is to turn on all the electrical accessories that you realistically would use at the same time such as headlights, AC, radio, electric fans if you have them, etc and watch the battery voltage with the engine idling. As long as the voltage isn't dropping below around 13-13.2 volts under a realistic heavy load at idle RPM, your alternator is keeping up just fine. What you really don't want to see is the voltage dropping below the battery's static voltage of around 12.8 volts because that means the alternator isn't keeping up and you are drawing power from the battery rather than charging it. But If the voltage is dropping too far, don't condemn the alternator right away. Check the battery cables, alternator charge cable, ground straps, etc for any damage or excessive voltage drop first. Sometimes just cleaning up and/or upgrading the main power and ground cables can make a big difference for very little or no cost. Also, make sure the belt is tight and in decent shape.
Amen just had to replace my Postive on my alternator it was corroded and was dropping down to 10.5v.
OFC oure copper cable isn't cheap but yes do inspect and replace the cables or add a 4AWG to all connections pos. amd neg. While at it upgrade the alternator too, just got a 220A for $150 new open box on eBay for my Chevy truck. I mean the original will go bad one day anyway.
@@judgedredd8876 was that for a stereo system or just as reserve amperage?
This also depends on the battery you have. If you trying to upgrade to an agm that voltage shouldn't go below 13.8 or above 14.8
Another tip: If upgrading your alternator is expensive and/or impractical in your application, you can easily and relatively cheaply significantly reduce the load on your current alternator by replacing your headlights, taillights, fog lights, marker lights, etc with LED bulbs since they draw much less power than regular incandescent bulbs.
and annoy everyone you are behind.
LED bulbs generally have the same lumens as bulbs. At Least if you're buying the road legal ones.
what if your car already has OEM LEDs?
@@steveolive9991 If all the lighting is LED from the factory, then that's about as power efficient as you are going to get. You could still upgrade the grounds and the alternator's power cable though.
People do it for subwoofers
What an awesome an informative video very helpful you answered like three questions that I've been trying to figure out 4 years in 5 minutes... Much appreciated.
Just hooked up a 12” sub in my truck powered by a 1k amp. Never thought it would as much power as it does idling. I can see the battery gauge draw back. Time to upgrade the alternator on my ram. I even have LEDs all around.
Thanks for the video man! Very informational & straight to the point on most questions I’ve wondered.
Thank you for watching!
Use an amp clamp with direct readout or coupled with a good digital multimeter. Fuses are thermal devices at the location changes the rate at which they open due to current increases in a circuit. They are chosen at a rating 20% higher than the circuit or device they protect. They heat up during turning the circuit on to handle cold coopers low resistance known as amperage in-rush. The amperage is the intensity of the pressure of electron flow thru a circuit. Voltage is the potential for electron to move from an area of abundance to an area of deficiency. A battery in good continental uses less the 0.5 amps or less to charge it. The circuits are generally all series circuits and the device is designed to consume all of the voltage in that circuit, minus the voltage loss across connectors, switches, fuse and all wires on the positive & negative side. Clean large gauge wire it recommended for the frame to all point electrical devices are used. Commonly solder, shrink tubing, Star-washers and the use of dielectric grease keeps out moisture and oxygen to reduce or eliminate corrosion. Remember, the end frame of the alternator it where diodes allow the negative half of the alternating current is produced. Providing a large ground wire to bolt directly to it then to the battery, engine and frame will allow more current thru less resistance allowing the alternator to work less hard and last longer. High output alternators when needed are expensive but bolting one on is just the beginning of upgrading the vehicles electrical system. Please, always use rubber grommets thru holes if adding components under the seat or trunk or even underneath the vehicle, like a automatic trans cooler with a fan. Keep wires clean away from moving or hot parts or add a simple heat shield to leave an air gap and reflect radiated heat away. Add a ground next to wires that carry low current A/C signals like a speed generator, wrap with foil tape, route away from spark plug wires then terminate the ground at the end of this circuit to help with shielding. Learn voltage drop testing dc circuits to accurately and quickly locate high resistance before purchasing expensive unnecessary components. Hope this helps
Heres a cookie bro.
Jacob, thanks but need whole milk. Squeeze 4 of those every AM for 5 years, you will set a little milk-fat cream used to make butter on the side! Now you know, the rest of the story. Farm to Amps. Thanks!
Lol. You for sure can have the whole milk, in fact take the cow
Big Alternator hates this guy.
Hahahaha"as much as 70 amps for a high powered amplifier" lool
I thought the same bahaa
I have a 600 door speaker amp and 2k sub
Bout to put in a 3k amp running 1 ohm. Planning on pulling some AMPS
I have 2 1500 watt rms ea..1/0 gauge 2ohm
I NEED TO UPGRADE NOW..this guy 70.ampz
How many amps you need from a 3500 what amp
Was going to laugh about "as much as 70 amps" for a high power car amp but looks like everyone else took care of it. 300a here
I put a 320 in place of a 63 amp in my 91 Ford pickup. I deleted the mechanical fan and replaced them with 2 electric cooling fans, also used a 2000 watt inverter often. Had a manuals throttle cable to increase the RPM when using the inverter. I also swapped the pulleys to increase the alternator RPM. I installed a 2 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery and added two grounds both 2 gauge, negative post of the battery to the body and same to the alternator bracket of the alternator. The Ambulance alternator was rated at a 90% duty cycle. Overkill or should I have done more?
Hi Ray,
Sounds like you have covered all of the bases for installing you high amperage alternator. You can verify that you have done enough by checking your voltage at the battery, with the engine running, and with all of your accessories turned on, it should stay above 13.7 volts.
@@SummitRacing did that. 13.85 V, very little ripple on the oscilloscope, no spikes when the cooling fans kicked off.
Thanks for sharing. I learned something today.
Thank you for watching!
1995 z28 with a 2,000 watts music system . What alternator do you say get
So i cant instaló a370 amp. And change the polley "if needed" to my shock truck
A lot of talking but not getting down to the facts of what needs to happen. One is an alternator that puts out more amps to help run things more efficiently, you may have to increase the output wire to the battery and it's always a good idea to put a battery of more amperage. How it bolts up pulley size yes those are concerns but you'll be able to figure it out.
We appreciate your additional insight. Thanks for watching!
Have a 2014 Ford Fusion se 1.5 L having a real hard time looking for a high output alternator for this car. Have a bunch of equipment waiting to get installed but need that alternator.
Try JS alternator
Can it be overkill to install a higher amp alternator just to be safe?
9 amps! Almost blew the fuse in that multimeter! (After 1:56 )
That just didn't seem like a good idea.
“As much as 70 amps” 😂😂😂 me sitting on 150amp 0 awg and 120amp 4awg 😂😂😂😬😬😬
Working on a BMW w/ 220amp on 2/0 lol
Dual 300 amp and 150 lol on a crown vic
For some stock European and Japanese cars 70A is high enough.
Most of them came from factory with a generator or even a 30A alternator
500-600 amps on 2 sfb3k's lol
@@gonnagetya1234r😮r zk 😮
I have a 2003 Z71 Suburban 5.3 engine. The problem I'm having is when I'm driving, the truck just turns off. The battery light comes on for a few seconds and then stays on a few seconds after the engine turns off. What could be the problem? Also, I put a used alternator in. Everything tested good, battery, alternator and starter.
I'd settle for any alternator! I'm still running a generator on my '63 Falcon. Relax though, it's slated for an upgrade soon.
Thank you for watching!
@Snow Crest > Get a DR44 off 99 - 2004 Silverado to Tahoe. Single wire upgrade on new style regulator, 460 ohms between it and key hot. Easy to polish. Just put slip-rings, brushes and heavy copper 80 Amp (Each) diode plate. Slip rings covered with old epoxy, chips off. Un-solder and twist to remove. Slip ring keyed to shaft just brass plate stator in vise and pry up at 180 degrees apart with large screwdrivers, medium pry bar or slip-ring puller from SnapOn. Paint as needed with case wire ground to engine & battery. B+ wire to battery and starter. 144 Amps at 1,300 RPM depending on pulley size and “All” V-belt GM pulleys fit. Just don’t loose spacer and always support case & install new bearings. Trick is chip edge off housing, stake new ones in w/blue thread locker. RED takes torch! 60’s Tech!
what ratio for mobile Tire changing van
please?
1500w air compressor ...through 1500w invertor
My stock alternator is only 80 amps and I have added a few accessories, but I am installing a powerful 5 channel JL audio amp and I upgraded my alternator to the next level I found at 180 amps. But the pully is pretty much the same size as my stock one was, and I upgraded my charging and ground wires to 0 gauge.... I did notice after first driving it that the computer went through a re-learn period (also I did have my battery disconnected for quite a while. Obviously) So i think with the battery disconnected and the stereo and amp along with the upgraded alternator this is normal...
Yes, it is common for a vehicle’s ECM to lose adaptations and have to go through a re-learn period if the battery is disconnected for any period of time.
Did you notice any power gains from the new alt?
My car feels a bit rusty at highway speeds and i also have amplifiers and subwoofer
i need help on this so i got this dodge charger 2011 and 2 amps one of 1500w and the other 4000w do i need to upgrade the alternator?? or do i have to buy a power capacitor???
With these high amp alternators what should it read on it on the gauge hope it's gauge I don't want to blow the battery
I need help I got a 2006 dodge charger rt with aftermarket mods, spyder headlights, pioneer radio, aftermarket door speakers, camshaft, 3200 stall, rockford fosgate 1000W 4 channel amp, a 1500.1D monoblock Orion amp 2 skar 10" subs and a regular car battery
Have you ever installed a 200 amp one wire Powermaster Alt on a Vortech supercharged 302 block Mustang? Alternator is on passenger bottom location.
I have a 2009 Chevy Silverado 2500 stock I put in car system down for sound amplifier 2300 W I do have a small light bar what kind of alternator do you recommend
My car ('Hetty') has a 70amp Alternator (factory), and I want to add a 2nd battery to exclusively power Accessories (Phone, LapTop, Front/Rear Camera, etc...) do I need to upgrade the Alternator to a 80amp? 145amp? etc?
I had a land Rover Series 3, if i upgrade it from 40amps to 120 AMPS what Is the effect? Is it ok for wiring? Is it ok for the system? well i had an upgrade for the electric things too and add the aircon also 🙏.
Singer Alternators are the best, period.
Yeah my little Rockford p400 takes 75 amps. The Rockford power 1500 is a little more lol. I got a 250a to take care of both those problems
Alternator man . Com
Did u have to upgrade wires when u changed alternator?
what pully ratio would i need for say 10,000+ WRMS Sound system. would i need
where can i find a 1998 saturn sc1 high amp Alternator not sure who to trust. i have 2 cb amps 2pill and 6pill amp the more the better.ebay offers them but not to sure if i can trust them
Otterator?
My 79 Lincoln Mark V died on the road. It is an alternator issue. The alternator is just not charging the battery. I believe it is a 60 or 70 amp alternator. I have an aftermarket sound system installed, but it's only like an 800 w amp that powers 2, 12-In subs.
My question is: is it just a bad alternator, or should I go for something with more juice, like a 100 amp alternator? I have heard that using an alternator that is too big can just fry the cells in a battery. Since my sound system is not huge, should I just replace the alternator with something similar?
My 2018 Promater City van's OEM alternator is 160a has gone bad and only putting out 12.5v. There is a lot of power demand on my van. I run a giant battery 155ah AGM starter battery and 2000 watt inverter + LED lights and other appliances. I want to put in a 320a after market alternator, but worry about the computer and affecting gas mileage. Should worry the battery fuse to my alternator is only 150a. Any pully changes if manuf claims it will fit?
Just gold information 👍
Thank you
I'm adding a second battery to my 1999 Suburban 5.7L. It has the stock 105a alternator. I want the extra battery just for a few odds and ends while camping. I don't really see any reason to upgrade to 140a, unless someone else thinks otherwise?
Can u put 160 amp..in place of 140 . For a charger?
I have a 2004 chevy suburban which I use for everyday driving and long distance driving. What amp alternator do I need for a stereo system that I slam on the weekend but bump on the weekdays too? My bass amp is 9000 watts max power pushing 2- 12 inch subwoofers now but later will be 4-12 inch subwoofers.
For your application, I recommend the Powermaster 220 amp alternator, PWM-68237.
www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-68237
Whats a good place to purchase a High Output Alternator from, looking to get a 370 amp
OFC pure copper cable isn't cheap but yes do inspect and replace the cables or simply add a 4AWG to all factory connections pos. and neg. While at it upgrade the alternator too, just got a 220A for $150 new open box on eBay for my Chevy truck. Might as well do it now before the stock alternator goes bad and leaves you stranded.
does pulley ratio matters with audio systems?
What about old 1963 externally regulated vehicles? I was told to replace my OEM mechanical regulator by a high performance solid state regulator, my problem is that I can't find a HIGH performance regulator they are all rated the same.
My question is: Do I really need a special performance regulator or they are all the same as far as handling more or less amps?
Great video, thank you all for your input.
Thanks for you enlighten..m so grateful..
Thank you for watching!
i’ve heard otherwise that you can have too much amperage, is this true?
Can I add a high output alternator on a 2014 Ford Fusion se 1.5 L with heated front seats?
I have a 2019 Jeep Cherokee Latitude stock Alt is 160 amp. Tryna figure out a good HO for it I’m running a JL Audio 1500 Watt RD Amp 0 gauge wired to a JL Audio 13.5 W7. 4 DS18 Door Speakers with I believe a 1500 Watt DS18 Amp. Any suggestions. Headlights don’t dim, but my interior lights do every bass hit. Want to run a second battery in the back as well.
I have a 1989 Ford Bronco XLT and a plow was added to the vehicle. I bought it to clear my driveway. I tried to use it last winter and it died after a short while. I had the battery and alternator checked and they were fine. I ran the numbers on the side of the alternator in it and believe it to be 75 amp and it has a couple of wire connectors on it. I pulled the trigger and ordered a power master rated for 150 amp. My concern is the wires. I went with what they call a "one wire" and mine has two connectors plugged in it and lots of wires. I will try to follow the directions on the new one, but does anyone have any info on the upgrade I will attempt?
Hi,
Your one wire alternator is easy to hook up to make it function. You just need a good ground to the alternator case and the correct gauge wire from the alternator terminal to the positive terminal of the battery for the alternator to function correctly. You will need to look at the wiring diagram of your Ford Bronco to determine what the original wiring connectors do and which ones need to be hooked up or removed. Thanks for watching!
Hi,i want to set up a sound system with a 3700 watts 5 channel amplifier to my 2008 subaru outback,do i need to change the factory alternator with a higher amp?if i need to,may how much more amps do i need?
What's an arinator?
great explanations
Thank you for watching, Paul!
I'm going from a factory 60 amp to a 95 amp alternator in my 75 Dodge. Will the new alternator affect the ammeter or any other gauges on my dash?
No just everything will probably Be a little brighter
Thanks for the knowledge!
having issues with my charging system i think i need a bigger alternator now that i watch ur vid.. my problem is if i leave the battery plag it will drain my battery n if i run my head light it will also drain my battery
Hi,
Your best way is to hook up a volt meter to your Battery. Start your vehicle and start turning on each accessory. Once all of your lights, fans and other are accessories are on, take a look at your volt meter. If it is below 13 - 12.5 volts, you will need to upgrade your alternator. Typically an Alternator will but out 13.5 - 14 volts. I hope this helps.
Should i get high output alternator? I got oem 140A alternator, 2x 90Ah agm batteries. Absolute max amp draw for my aftermarket audio is about 470A and my battery voltages never go under 13 when i use them
HI, if a higher output alternator is available for your case style, we would suggest upgrading to a 200 amp or 250 amp. However if your lights aren’t diming or pulsing with your audio system, then you are doing okay with the 140 amp that you have.
I would say yes but then again look at the headlights when the subs are beatn! Your batteries may be helping you but to what extent! You can always bennefits from a bigger alt!
i have a 2007 4.0liter 4runner and i have two 12s on a 1500 watt amp and i have been having problem with my battery draining , should i keep the stock 130 alternator or get the 240 amp mechman alternator
Have you tried doing the big 3 upgrade. It will help you get the most out of your stock alternator. It helped me big time !!!
Yes, we would recommended using the higher output alternator.
I can't find a high output alternator for my 2001 mitsubishi mirage es no matter where I look can anyone help me with finding one
Should I hook a alternator directly to a battery
Hi, If you have a one wire capable Alternator, then you only need to run one wire from the output of the Alternator directly to the Positive terminal of the Battery. And confirm the Alternator case is grounded to the engine block.
The other day I was running one of those low end 12v portable compressors for about 10 minutes while the engine was running at medium rpm after I was done with the compressor I ran the engine for another 15-20mins then I shat it down, then when I tried to start, it crapped itself!
A dc clamp on amp meter could probably be easier than disconnecting the battery.
Thanks for sharing
Great tool linked for configuring the appropriate charge capacity for your alternator. Do you have one for modern vehicles that have high draw devices like coil on plug ignition, fuel injection and high performance fuel pumps?
Thank you for your compliments. Unfortunately we do not have Amp draw chart for modern electronics. However, we found this one online. www.aa1car.com/library/electrical_amp_loads.htm
Please note: This link is not affiliated with Summit Racing, but contains some good information for modern vehicles.
Im thinking replacing my alternator in my 1968 Dodge -100, 318 engine. I see a 220 amp and 100 amp. Should I go with the 220 to be safe?
Hi,
A 100 amp alternator will be ideal if your 1968 Dodge Is mostly stock. This should support your standard lights, along with a few aftermarket accessories like an electric fan, electric fuel pump, and a fuel injection system. If you have a high output stereo system or power windows, you should consider the 220 amp alternator. You may safely use a 220 amp alternator if your vehicle is mostly stock, this is especially helpful if you are planning to add additional electrical accessories in the future. I hope this helps.
@@SummitRacing are ebays high output alts any good?
@@theurbanartist775 There are a lot of great alternators sold on eBay, but there are also a lot of crappy ones. If you buy an alternator made by a reputable company such as Mechman or DC Power from a reputable seller you should be fine, but don't expect a no name million amp alternator to be reliable or perform anywhere nearly as well as advertised. If the price seems too good to be true it probably is, you get what you pay for. I have a video on my channel where I test a BNR high output alternator from eBay and show how poorly it performs if you want to check it out.
Sooooo..don’t go higher amperage on older vehicles. Unless you are replacing wires...?
Let's say that I have have a 70 amps alternator, can hook up a bigger amperage battery to it, like a 95 Ah, without risking burn the alternate?!
There is no problem using a larger battery with your existing alternator-just make sure the battery is fully charged prior to installation to avoid overworking the alternator. However, if the total load on the vehicle’s electrical system exceeds the alternator’s output (due to auxiliary lighting, an aftermarket stereo, etc.), any size battery will discharge, and the alternator could be damaged by overloading.
How if i wanna increase the Amper to be enough for the car to load all applications on the alternator with almost no battery usage? For ex. My car factory battery is 80 amps . Is it right to install a higher alternator amps for it like 90 amp??
Yes, if your amp draw in your vehicle exceeds the rating of your alternator, you will need to upgrade to a higher amp alternator.
My amp fuse alone is 140 then power from battery to amp is a 100 fuse the add everything els yeah I need at least a 300amp alternator
ALnator lol
All Nader
I cant un-hear this
Amperage and displacement. There's no replacement. 🤔😳😁👍
You got jokes too! 70 amps for large car amp!! You mean the swap meet special amp is 70.
Haha right! My truck audio system alone pulls around 250amps. I'm running three auxiliary agm batteries and a 320amp mechman alternator.
For sure haha, my 30 year old base model bimmer has a 90 amp alt.
Maybe you can help me. I have 1 kicker cxa 1200.1 and it makes my volt meter move. What alternator should i get?
@@wsttxC10_454 my Rockford 4 Channel pulls 75 not counting the T1500 right beside it
@@colliermattful you need atleast 160. I'd go ahead and get a 200 just to be safe. BnR on ebay has good rebuilt and new ones. I just got a 250 for 200 and it's nice. Also bought a 200 a while back and it lasted a long time
thanks for informantion
Thank you for watching!
1:1 ratio for circle track configuration? That's almost unheard of. 3:1 is actually the most common.
Never found a 6" alternator pulley, still looking, nope!
@@deankay4434 We used to use heavy truck pulley's 4.5" with 14mm shaft and still run ½" wide belt. But as newer racing alternators based on a single wire Nippon-Denso high speed (and low rotating mass) became available, we switched. They are compatible with 3" V-pulley or serpentine 5 groove pulley with same diameter. Available in 50/60/75 amp models. For late model, 60 is more than enough unless you are allowed to run brake blowers.
Some teams still run without an alternator for Saturday night 30 lap feature events at ⅜ mile or less tracks, saving 10 HP at the top end.
@@DougHanchard You could in theory do a couple of things to improve that and save a bit of battery mass. Put a switch under the accelerator pedal that disables the voltage regulator at WOT. That way when you need the extra 10 it will be there and when you dont you can charge the smaller battery and still be ok. You could also add/use a one way bearing to drive the alternator so when you lift the alternator will still spin if charge isnt required and when you get back on it less load to spin up the alternator as it's already spinning faster than the engine is running.
I have a question, my 1st gen scion xb seems like it wants to stall when my bass sound system is turned up. I have a 200amp alternator, do I need more amps Or less? I do have 1/0 AWG, thanks
Alternator seems big enough. You need a battery able to provide more power when the bass hits (so that it stops pulling so much from the alternator all at once). You can try a bigger battery or maybe a capacitor for that. Good luck!
It's possible your throttle body and or idle speed motor needs to be cleaned. Gum and varnish around the bore or in the IAC can cause the engine to idle below expected standards, affect idle recovery, and promote stalling.
Check the state of the battery too. You may need to replace your battery with a higher reserve capacity version to help support the charging system when the alternator output is decreased at idle. Make sure all electrical connections are secure and free of corrosion to prevent unnecessary current resistance.
"The alternator output should be 50% greater than the total draw of your accessories." What counts as accessories? I have 25 amps of new power draw added into my fuse block on my 1970. The fuse block itself has 96 amps worth of fuses.
Reading from the comments, looks like this is a misleading video. Thanks for the info guys from the comments.
CAN SOMEONE HELP ME PLEASE?!?!?! I have looked EVERYWHERE and I cannot find a high amp alt for my 2014 chevy cruze!!! It's a 1.8 ecotec gas powered engine, any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you!!!
Currently we do not offer a high amp alternator for your application. You might want to try to locate an Alternator Rebuilder that can modify the original alternator to increase the amperage output.
.,l
Try BnR alternators on ebay. Or call them. They carry most everything and have good stuff. I've bought a 200 and 250
@@yusufjorgenz5951 I have tried them too..... The only ones I found were for the 1.4 diesel and the 1.4 turbo. I paid for a 220 from Singer alternators and that was almost 2 weeks ago and they haven't even started building it yet so God knows when I will actually receive it
@@yusufjorgenz5951 The only ones I found on Ebay were the stock 130 amp no H.O.
Just pick the highest output that fits and try and use the OEM belt.
do u need to upgrade to fuse ? my stock alternator is 80amp with a 80amp fuse so if u swap over to a high output alternator 140amp do u need to match it with same fuse rated at 140amp ????
im guessing the 140amp alternator will blow the 80amp fuse ???
really need to know before i install this new H.O alternator 😫
I need to charge a 12 V battery bank of 800 Ah from a an alternator dedicated just for this. The batteries are recommended to be charged at 400 A. What alternator should I use? Can I use a high voltage (24 V or 48V) alternator and a regulator that will drop the voltage close to batteries to reduce the size of the wires? Thanks.
He said an upgraded amplifier can pull up to 70 amps ! What world does he come from! I've seen amps pulling 340 amps !
🤣👍🏾
A general 1000w amp pulls 84 amps. 1000watt is generally standard (enough) for average consumers nowadays. But back then it was roughly 500- 900
He wasnt giving you a 20,000 watt build.😂
I'm curious whether it is better to add a second dedicated alternator for car audio (130amp stock alt)
Or to replace the stock alternator for a 250 amp HO alt
In my case I have a 2012 chevy cruze 1.4 turbo
My alternator is stupid hard to get to but I think there's plenty room for a second one.
Second alt is 200$
While a HO alt for this car is 600$ish
If possible, I'd prefer one larger, more efficient alternator over a second. Less load overall placed on engine this way. Overall helping efficiency of the engine. Especially given the implied relatively low current draw of your system, a single HO would be the best benefit to you.
Looking to get a 300 amp alt for my 07' Trailblazer. I've got a 2000 watt rms car audio system that requires a 200 amp fuse. So hopefully it will be enough. May need an extra battery or 2. I got a XS Power 3400 I bought off of summit racing a couple month ago. I'm very happy with it!
Hello I have a 2014 Honda Odyssey, I currently have LED head lights , and tail lights, I also have LED interior lights LED fog lights and a couple of amps, speakers aftermarket radio and I’m looking to upgrade my alternator due to the fact, that I have replaced my alternator three times in less than two years. My current amperage is 200 I would like to go up to 500 if possible? Any recommendations?
Nice video
What next bro
Thanks for watching!
Question. I have dual batteries in my isuzu NPR truck. Do I need a high output alternator? Legit answers. If you dont know dont reply.
I installed a second battery on my brother truck and upgraded from 120 amp alternator to 150. Rurns great ALL THIS FOR AUDIO SYSTEM. I dont think it wont hurt if you upgrade yours
Hi, You do not need a high output alternator to charge dual batteries. If your truck came equipped with dual batteries, then you only need the stock replacement alternator. However, If you have added additional accessories, then you will need to find out the amperage of the components that have been added and you will want to find an alternator that will fit your truck that will have a higher output than the original alternator. I hope this helps.
Well my amp draws 627 amps at 12.6 volts
one word: MUSTANG so yes I need one
there is way more to it then just a high amp alt. in many cases if you just put in a 250-300 amp alt you will destroy another link in chain. many new cars have voltage regulators in the computer. these will give people many headaches. if your going over 200 amps you have a lot to change. in most cases people just need more idle current. a 150 ampish alt with smaller pulley will solve most peoples problems. you really have to find what use case your in. addition or upgrading voltages regulation, 2x or 3x rectifies will be more useful for people. im not an expert but you need to find someone who understand everything in the chain.
the battery still needs a slow amp charge. it seems guys with very big 300-450 amp alts need to use a trickle charging system when they park there vehicles.
fuses will have to come to play
Just run two two alternators
So skip all the math" if you add things that draw Power get a more powerful alternator, And no it won't hurt anything, keep it simple stupid.
Well the 50% thing is more because an alternator is sold by its max amperage. There’s other numbers like idle amperage both cold and hot that are lower and even lower when hot. If you can’t produce enough amperage at idle you’ll still be straining it. Problem not solved. This is especially useful in very high wattage car stereos. If your idling you wanna make enough power as well an when driving. Plus massive headroom is always a nice thing.
high output amp up to 70 amps... looks over to my tiny 160 Amp fuse XD.
Damn so I didn't need that 320 alt thy lied to me 😅😊😂
Does anyone know about subwoofer and alternators?
Amplifiers drive subwoofers. Your car's alternator ampere rating determines how powerful an amplifier you can install. Multiply the ampere rating by 40%, and you'll get a rough idea of how much reserve current capacity your car's system has. Based on the size of the amplifier, you may need to upsize your charging system.
To calculate the draw of an amplifier:
Multiply the number of channels by the RMS watts per channel. For example, a two-channel amp rated at 200 watts RMS per channel would be 400 watts.
Double it to account for amplifier inefficiency (400 watts X 2 = 800 watts), divide by an alternator's average output voltage, 13.8 volts (800 divided by 13.8 = 87 amps).
Because the average music signal requires approximately 1/3 of the average power, divide by 3 (58 amps divided by 3 = 19.3 amps).
The result is the amplifier's approximate current draw at peak use.
@@SummitRacing im having a problem with my 08 328i randomly turning of while driving. I have a stock alternaton, and running a 3,000 watt amp and a secondary battery connexted2 to a 15' sub. My idle runs slightly irradict when playing the system at high volumes. And my car turns off after a hour or so of driving or idling. Then turns back on after 10 mins. My mechanic suggested uprgading my alternator
Is that a Mazda? Lost all respect for summit
You can't be serious.
Lol I own MazdaTurbo 3. I wish I can teach you a lesson.😏
Bro my subwoofer amplifier pulls 525 amps by its self 😆
Sheesh guys, why aren't you telling people about clamp meters ?
Since when is a 70 amp amplifier high power 😂 that’s like a Walmart jawn I’m about to drop in a extra 8 to 900 amps
Lol my car amp pulls 250amps 🤣
Mine pulls 1300😂
@@matspresthus2919 13k?
380 ho 160 ah yl lithium. Thats enough for 99.9% all applications.
And for godsakes get rid of your old turd of a lead acid battery and get a good agm or lithium that state what their highest amp load can be and make sure it's enough for you application.