If you replace that 2x3 drywall nailer with a strip of 23/32 Advantec you can screw it in after with a right angle drill and it works great. I use Advantec for all my nailers.
Building it like this I'm not seeing the issue with attaching that 3rd stud drywall backer there in the corner. You said you wouldn't be able to get a nailer in behind there? Yeah how wouldn't you? Is there some kind-of requirement that says the sheathing has to be preinstalled before that backer?
Can you do a video explaining why you have the change to an L shape? I can't help but feel the old design would would be easier to work with but i assume you have a good reason
Is there an engineering reason you never show the "parallel" tstuds anymore vs. the "right-angle/perpendicular" ones like shown here? I would think the parallel ones would be used in most situations for walls, top/bottom plates, and headers. Are you even selling the parallel ones anymore? One comment I found suggested the right angle ones is because it maintains the same width of the normal wall stud bay for putting in batt insulation.....but that doesn't make sense since bare-naked tstuds are perfect for spray foam.
What I do not understand, with wood buildings in the USA, is using isolation that will burn and often produce toxic fumes. When you have concrete or brick double walls, you can have your isolation that burns in the cavity. I also do not understand using isolation and cladding that burns on the outside walls, especially in areas where you can expect a fire danger. I would keep isolation that burns as far away from a wooden house as possible. So why even talk about spray foam.
Thanks for demonstrating. I'd like to use these when I build.
If you replace that 2x3 drywall nailer with a strip of 23/32 Advantec you can screw it in after with a right angle drill and it works great. I use Advantec for all my nailers.
Building it like this I'm not seeing the issue with attaching that 3rd stud drywall backer there in the corner. You said you wouldn't be able to get a nailer in behind there? Yeah how wouldn't you? Is there some kind-of requirement that says the sheathing has to be preinstalled before that backer?
That's what I was thinking.
Can you do a video explaining why you have the change to an L shape? I can't help but feel the old design would would be easier to work with but i assume you have a good reason
On another video you show starting the first wall with a 2X6 instead of a T-stud. Which is the best way?
Is there an engineering reason you never show the "parallel" tstuds anymore vs. the "right-angle/perpendicular" ones like shown here? I would think the parallel ones would be used in most situations for walls, top/bottom plates, and headers. Are you even selling the parallel ones anymore? One comment I found suggested the right angle ones is because it maintains the same width of the normal wall stud bay for putting in batt insulation.....but that doesn't make sense since bare-naked tstuds are perfect for spray foam.
😀 😃
What I do not understand, with wood buildings in the USA, is using isolation that will burn and often produce toxic fumes. When you have concrete or brick double walls, you can have your isolation that burns in the cavity. I also do not understand using isolation and cladding that burns on the outside walls, especially in areas where you can expect a fire danger. I would keep isolation that burns as far away from a wooden house as possible.
So why even talk about spray foam.